WATCH THIS Before Using Your Table Saw - Workshop Safety

[@kamilegier4730]

As a newer wood worker but seasoned trauma nurse, I’d like to add to Colin’s sage advice. The best safety device is a clear, focused, well rested mind. If you are tired, angry, sad, frustrated, or if anything is heavy on your mind don’t use power tools. Of course drugs, alcohol, and machines/tools never go well together. And for other female wood workers, we need to remember to put our hair up, I had a scary near miss so now I always put mine up in a tight bun.

[@jonirn3751]

As an ER nurse myself, I feel the same way. But I'm still trying to get over my fear of the table saw, so I can spread my wings in my shop. Lol.

[@TRAVISTHEDADDY]

And mind anything loose - Hoodie drawstrings, watch bands, belts, etc.

[@donkink3114]

Not just the ladies, us long haired guys need to be cautious with our hair as well.😊

[@michaelgartner6663]

Thank you from a 30 year safety professional. I’ve never had anyone tell me they sorry they worked safely. I’ve lost count of those that told me they wished they had.

[@leehaelters6182]

Well observed!

[@raymitchell9736]

Hi Colin, I switched over to using the "gripper" push blocks, they provide 3 directions of pressure, control the cut piece and the off cut so you have to remove the blade guard to use them... I take my time setting up the cut and I feel completely safe using them, I appreciate your advice and understand why you said it. I still consider myself a newbie even after 5 years of making projects because I'm a weekend woodworker. But one rule I stand by is that if I feel tired or frustrated at something... I stop work! Accidents can happen, yes, but mistakes are also possible and wasteful in time and materials. Thanks for the refresher in shop safety... I too know it can happen to me... I learn to respect my tools, but not fear them.

[@Thom4123]

My grandfather told me at a young age “the minute you think you control the machine is the second you get hurt “ and when I have a injury and sure enough when you play it back at least for me it was being complicated or cocky is when I get injured. Also never do the “just one more cut” when your tired. Awesome video and a great reminder for all of us. Take Care

[@atoieno]

Sage advice Colin...thanks. The fatigue factor is also important. Skiers at the end of a long day's skiing are prone to the "last run risk". That's when even the most experienced fall victim to accidents. So If you are tired that last cut will wait 'till tomorrow.

[@robertmadden7536]

Too right Colin, familiarity breeds contempt. Using a chainsaw in my day to day job is a weekly occurrence. You soon learn that the saw understands when you are off your game and sets out to wake you up. Only following safe practices have saved me a time or so. Never can be reminded of safety too often. Thank you for this video mate.

[@johnrobinson1020]

Good advice Colin; I too have been woodworking for over 50 years and never had an accident until earlier this year when I cut my thumb badly on the table saw but luckily I didn't lose any part of my thumb but spent a couple of days in hospital and had surgery to fix the cut. You are right, we do become complacent and I think this is what happened to me. I was leader in a local men shed for 7 years and I always emphasised the danger of the table saw being probably the most dangerous tool in the shed and my advice to my members was, before making a cut on the table saw; stop and rehearse the cut in your mind before actually making the cut and if you think the method you are going to use to make the cut is a bit risky, then don't make the cut that way and consider a safer way to do it and if still in doubt, don't make the cut. In 7 years in the shed , we never had a bad accident on the table saw or any other machine, but we did have some near misses. My injury was in my own shed at home and I was in a hurry to make the cut and a cut I had done thousands of times; As you said Colin, "the machine always wins" I urge every woodworker to be extra careful at all times and stay focused and stay safe.

[@akivaweil5066]

Clearly you severely mitigated your risk. Things happen

[@vashon100]

Did your hand get pulled toward the saw or just instinctively reached for something that was too close?

[@johnrobinson1020]

@@vashon100 I guess I lost concertration; I pushed a piece of timber through the saw with a push stick and I finished the action I drew my hand back to clear the sawblade but I made the mistake of twisting my hand to the left as I withdrew the push stick bringing my right thumb into contact with the spinning saw blade. It was done with the blade guard off the table as like a lot of other woodworkers I don't use the blade guard. I can honestly say that if I had the blade guard on, my thumb would not have come into contact with the blade. Unfortunately the cut I was making couldn't be done with the blade guard on as I was re-sawing a piece of timber that was too wide for the saw so I had to cut half way through and then flip the timber to cut through from the other edge. I now have no feeling in my right thumb.

[@vashon100]

@@johnrobinson1020 Thanks for the reply. Glad it wasn't worse.

[@PerrynBecky]

When I saw your bandaged head and arm in a sling on the tab, I thought you got hurt yourself from your table saw. I'm very relieved to see that you didn't get hurt and this is an instructional video on table saw safety based on a fellow KZbinr, but sad that he/she got hurt, but thankful they were able to share their experience, meaning it could have been much worse. Praying for their speedy and full recovery.

[@MrUSNMasterChief]

Colin, you hit the mark again. I have been a woodworker for 45 years and you are so correct, Complacency will kill you. Thanks again for the reminder...

[@jonirn3751]

As an ER Nurse, I have seen injuries a table saw can cause, so I have been holding back on getting one, out of fear, which has limited me in what I can make. Your videos are always so clear and easily comprehensible. You are my go-to guy for answers. Still not ready to purchase one yet, may check into taking a class, where I can actually use one with guidance for the first time. Thanks for the great videos!

[@sergiosotolongo7286]

Any tool that spins at a high rate of speed can cause serious injury. I’ve always shown a high level of respect for the table saw. However, a palm router got me. It left me with two of my fingers pretty mangled up. It kicked back at me and I wasn’t even trying to catch it. It was just bad luck that left me with 23 stitches on my index and middle finger.

[@GeorgeCooper_LoneWolf]

Great info 👍 I have been using a Tablesaw for many years BUT I still do what I call the 15 second think count. Every time I'm about to make a cut I take just 15 seconds to stop and think ( What could go wrong here )

[@JackKirbyFan]

That is a fantastic idea. I had an accident on my saw. Thankfully it was a sawstop so the blade retracted but man I didn't even see it coming. Been using a saw since age 15 and I was taking it for granted. Bad idea on my part.

[@darcysee9471]

George, I do something similar, I repeat the same phrase; "life altering injuries". This helps me stop and think. I heard a phrase, that you're not ever going to get back whatever part of your body touches this moving saw blade.

[@jacqdanieles]

@@darcysee9471 I don't own a tablesaw but I feel similarly about my circular saw.

[@karlforster4907]

I do the same.

[@leehaelters6182]

@@JackKirbyFan, always great to hear another Saw Stop story with a good outcome! Thanks for testimony. As more demand is created, the tool manufacturers will step up and compete to make better and more affordable designs. Felder already seems to have a super mechanism, but for professional level machinery.

[@mefirst4266]

I AM GLAD I STOPED BY. I COULD HAVE GOTTEN HURT NOT KNOWING HOW THE BLADE SHOULD BE SET AND ABOUT THE KICK BACK. THANKS A MILLION !!! HAPPY SAWING !!!!

[@markmcmullen7402]

Colin, you have a luxury that I don’t...space. I work in my basement with limited space. First thing I check in my shop is making sure the floor is clear & clean for my feet. Then is the in-feed & out-feed areas are clear to start & complete the cut. It is so dangerous to get half way through a cut & run into a wall or set of shelves...worrying the whole time reaching for the switch & praying until the blade runs down (I have done this only once). I always do 2 dry runs of the cut before raising & turning on the blade. Keep up the great content!

[@Rubin5342]

Colin, 72 years old, used every saw there is and still gained greatly with this video. Thank you and safe, long wood working to you. //John in Oregon

[@wreckenbach9703]

Good stuff Sir. 33 years in EMS. Folks: Take a first aid or Stop the Bleed course. For big trauma I keep a "Stop the Bleed Kit" for near my saw. For small trauma; nick's, splinters, etc I have regular first aid kit. At the very least pick up a commercially available tourniquet; Recon medical or NAR CAT Tourniquets and put near your first aid kit. I also have an extinguisher on each end of the shop.

[@bigdaddyfish2]

As president of our local woodworking club we have had our second member lose part of a finger on table saw in the last 3 years. In each case the operator was tired and making their last cut of the day. Complacency took effect and changed their life for ever! That is a good video on saw safety but it applies to all power tools in the shop.

[@sapelesteve]

Great advice Colin! I always take a minute or two to think through my set up before making a cut on the table saw. One thing that you forgot to mention is to always check that the fence is in the locked position before making a cut. Also, never ever operate machinery when you are tired or not feeling well! As we all know, bad things can happen in a millisecond when using any piece of machinery!

[@googleuser3553]

Great tips. Made thousands of cuts but knew I had to watch your video. I'm going to start raising my blade just a half tooth starting today. Fully agree with your choice in push sticks. Thanks for posting.

[@hardnox6655]

Excellent advice Colin. Amen with all you said. I use a Powermatic 66 cabinet saw with a 5HP motor. It has zero safety attachments. With over 50 years of woodworking experience, I have found that the key to safety is zero distractions and ALWAYS using a sharp blade (set at the right height). With a sharp blade and proper push stick one can power their way through the gnarliest of woods. The most dangerous situation is using a dull blade. The cheapest investment in the shop is using expensive blades, and maintaining their sharpness. This includes routers too.

[@andrewbieger5004]

Great stuff Colin. Great tips for anyone, including us folks with more experience in the shop. VERY easy to get complacent. If I might add a couple items 1.) Don't use a TS if there are bunch of people around shooting the breeze. Those distraction can be bad news. 2.) make sure your fence is secure AND properly set parallel to the blade 3.) Avoid the temptation to rip short boards, as you have greater control with longer stock, which can be cut to final length AFTER. 4.) Use a clean AND sharp blade (suited for the task) to reduce the likelihood of binding. These are things I have seen carpenters do regularly on job sites, sometimes resulting in a trip to the ER. Keep the vids coming!

[@joeymerrell8585]

I will not start a machine in my shop if someone is talking to me. Any distraction can be catastrophic

[@jumpingjacks5558]

Great tutorial. Reviewing table saw safety is something everyone should do from time to time. It's easy to get complacent. That when accidents happen.

[@davidpalmer5166]

Thanks for the video. I hope you guys realize that since the public school systems took woodshop you are the replacement whether you like it or not. I've been woodworking since the 70s and you guys remind me of so many things I have forgotten and new things that have come along since I got out of high school back in the stone age (1975).

[@leonardnoel888]

Same story here.

[@johnmusgrave3179]

I have a dymo label on my rip fence level with the blade position stating in large letters "The blade ALWAYS wins". It never fails to make me think through the cut one more time before I actually cut anything.

[@greybeard9396]

That's how it should be done, every cut thought over and cut in the mind, before the actual physical cut.

[@briantippets]

Appreciate these kinds of videos and your teaching style. I’m brand new. I’ve used numerous hand tools and smaller power tools but recently purchased a table saw. Really have no experience with one at all. Been watching tons of videos, reading as much as I can, but nothing really prepares you for turning on your own saw and making your own cuts. Truth be told, I’m presently quite scared of it. I feel like I know the basics and can start but it’s weirdly difficult to get over the initial fear of it. Maybe it’s just me. Most people probably grow up around table saws or have learned from someone in person, but I didn’t have that. Anyway, all this to say I appreciate you looking out for us beginners and really appreciate being able to learn from someone not only experienced, but friendly and approachable.

[@davebennett5069]

the number of times i have been second-hand scared when watching the samurai carpenter rip on his table saw with no riving knife and he reaches over the blade to grab the cutoff...DUDE...your hands make wonderful pieces of art. DON'T BE SO CARELESS WITH THEM

[@johnmclaurin]

Having lost half a thumb last December doing EXACTLY what you described, reaching over, I can honestly say, you are 1000% correct….stupid mistake..I hope folks are paying attention!

[@leehaelters6182]

@@johnmclaurin, thanks for the testimony, every little bit will help another person. All the best wishes that you recover all your function!

[@akbychoice]

Complacency, Rushing, Fatigue and Distractions.

[@GertrudeGrindhorn]

Thanks so much Colin for reminding me...take a breath before the cut..imagine the cut from start to finish... this has saved me doing something unsafe on many occasions...

[@mitch58100]

Thank you, Colin, another would be a nice first aid kit also mounted on the wall for quick access. I bought mine at Sam’s for around $24.98. Specifications: 351 pieces of comprehensive first-aid treatment products Meets or exceeds OSHA / ANSI / ISEA Z308.1-2015 standards for 100 people Ideal for most businesses and perfect for family use at home Fully organized interior compartments with tilting shelves provide quick access Two separate layers for large and small first-aid products Easy-slide latches securely lock into place Rugged, sturdy hard plastic, wall-mountable case is impact-resistant

[@chubbibots]

im still a beginner when it comes to using table saw ( been doing it it for just over a year and a half) and woodworking. complacency is on point! i do always talk to myself before using my saw that this machine is not joking around. i give the machine the respect it deserves!

[@Erik_The_Viking]

Great tips Colin! Complacency is a common reason why we injure ourselves. I spend a lot of time thinking about the cut and if I can't do it safely on the table saw, then I find another way to do it. There can never be enough reminders about safety.

[@FfrankieG176]

I myself am guilty of removing the riving knife after having my table saw for five years. Same day I removed the riving knife, on my 3rd cut, I got a piece of wood shot to my gut. Lucky it didn’t break skin because of all the clothes I had on plus an apron but I had a black and blue on my stomach for almost a week and a half. The riving knife is back on and will never get removed. The picture of you all covered in bandages, is hilarious!!!!! Great video!!!

[@leevy6753]

I've had the wood to the gut shot. Not fun but I was also lucky, damaged but not injured.

[@DrMackSplackem]

I always ended up taking it off and leaving it off for all further operations. I can't remember why I had to, only that it was necessary to do so for certain cuts and it was just a hassle to mess with. Other than the occasional ratty rip, I never had any issues with kickback to speak of, but a lot of that comes down to following simple rip fence rules, getting a good feel for torque and mass factors, and the fact that I prefer a mitered sled to a fence for a lot of stuff.

[@kobra6335]

After receiving my cabinet table saw, the first thing did was to buy two Micro Jig GRR-RIPPER push blocks. At the time it cost me around $150. Some say that's too expensive for push blocks. But for me it's well worth it knowing my fingers will never come in contact with the blade.

[@ian1352]

They're the equivalent of about $100 each here, but I eventually decided to just spend the money.

[@penjon]

These are undoubtedly great tips. A few observations as a newbie having trouble finding shop time and these days mostly just watches others make stuff on KZbin: For the circular saw, even if you can't get good results it still seems well worth it to use the circular saw at least to help with rough break down. Since most major KZbin woodworkers at least use riving knives and push sticks (and don't use the blade guard), almost all of the table saw injuries I've heard of have been of the "I reached over the blade to grab the cut off and it nicked my finger" variety. A blade guard would have prevented those, but I think so would an outfeed table. It's also a really good argument to keep the blade lower. I know there's at least one KZbin woodworker who seems to reach over to grab the cut off as part of every cut. Not sure if that makes him more or less susceptible to this kind of injury since he's so practiced in that aspect of the operation, though I'm sure it's another case where complacency would get him in trouble. I personally don't use my blade guard, mainly because it's difficult to adjust the riving knife position in order to put it on, and I would need to frequently remove it and lower the riving knife in order to use my current crosscut sled, but I make it a point to not reach over to grab any cut offs while the blade is spinning (either use an outfeed table, hold it past the blade with the push sticks until the blade spins down, or just let it free if it's relatively short or if I just don't mind letting it fall to the floor).

[@ifiwooddesigns]

I’ve been doing this for so long and still I get butterflies using the tablesaw. I respect it and glad that I haven’t become comfortable with it. Two very important tips you didn’t mention should be addressed for even advanced woodworkers. One; never stand behind it and stay to the left of Wood you are cutting. Second; use a piece of wood against the fence instead of the fence along with the mitre fence so wood doesn’t bind. And of course, sleds do an amazing job and everyone should invest in getting one for their table.

[@leonardnoel888]

It is not exactly clear to me " Second; use a piece of wood against the fence instead of the fence along with the mitre fence so wood doesn’t bind"? Can you please explain in more details?

[@joer5627]

Your comments are correct. I always - 100% of the time go through the checklist you mentioned. I’ve had kickback once. I was making the last cut in a long day and tired. Won’t do that ever again. Finish the next day saves a lot of pain and in some instance missing digits.

[@mmb811]

Excellent video Colin. complacency is EXACTLY what came and bit me. I have respect for my dangerous tools, like my Table Saw, Radial arm Saw, Planers, (big dangerous machines), but not so much for my smaller machines, like my belt sander. Thought it's so small, and I have used it for so many years, I'll just quickly sand this piece of wood, not worrying to much about safety. Well it shot the wood out and made a nice gash in my leg, I was very lucky it was not bad. It sure brought me back to realizing that complacency is the BIGGEST ENEMY of us "old" wood workers

[@whomadethatsaltysoup]

Thank you, Colin. A good reminder to us all regarding complacency. Once or twice I've had a wee scare on the table saw when I've not been mindful of what I'm about. Always a good idea to stop, and take a breath before making any cuts. As a journeyman once told me: always respect your tools! In my case, it's not too difficult, as my table saw does not have a soft start, so sounds a bit like a shotgun going off when you fire it up. That, if nothing else, tends to focus the mind, but we all tend to zone out on repetitive tasks.

[@cjlamber]

Very good point. Easy to drift off with a soft start.

[@jakobhalskov]

Thanks for reminding us about these critical basics for staying safe with the table saw! A year ago I managed to get my thumb too close the blade and cut the tip off. It has healed well a year later and acts as great reminder!

[@JS_Precision]

Outstanding. There's no substitute for experience and I'm happy the old timers also make KZbin videos, and not only the young guns who think they know it all. This gentleman says "I've seen this happen multiple times" multiple times. That's a real lesson.

[@catfishcave379]

Channels like yours got me over my fear of tablesaws and I have been safely using one for for almost two years. I may not be quick, but I follow a safety checklist before each cut.

[@wswerv1]

Great advice Colin. I have an old table saw, actually a contractor saw, with no blade guard or riving knife, and always respect the blade. I use a push stick similar to yours but mine is made from a pieceof 2x6 about 10 inches long. I also regularly check the alignment of the blade and the fence to ensure they remain perfectly parallel.

[@CallahanSF2211]

No major events with mine. One time I was in hurry. Went to grab piece before blade stopped. Cut my finger. I use Grrpr block now, love it. Thanks for video.

[@rss608]

yes, first thing I was going to write was the blade height, but you corrected it. Completely agree about ripping plywood, I use a track saw to rip most of the time. If I'm cutting a lot of sheets then I get a 2nd person to help when I run on table saw. agree always drop the blade when finished with piece, protects the blade as well as any work that you sit on the table. But, I don't use a splitter or guard, I can't see where the cut is going, I find they are a huge PIA,,, I always use a push stick, kind of a cross between the 2 diff styles you show.

[@AncoraImparoPiper]

I've watched many vids about table saw safety but this is the first one that explains in detail the causes of kickback. I don't have a table saw and don't plan to get one because I have alternative and safer methods of getting the same job done. But I was tempted at one point and hence my interest in table saw safety.

[@kenstewart687]

Thank you Colin for the reminder. All very good points. Complacency is a big problem with us older “experienced” wood workers.

[@jean-philippegaudreault3549]

I really enjoy watching you talking about safety! I'm a safety at work inspector and me and my colleague all have seen worker cut their fingers with table saw. I would only add one thing to your video, alway disconect the table saw when you put your finger near the blade! thank you for that video!

[@johnwhitley2898]

Kudos 👍! I appreciate your walk through again!! I'm using the saw again this afternoon. I dry run a cut set up, blade dropped and OFF, just to check. Mind and Gut says "Not Comfortable", I reset the cut. It works! 👍 Kudos again!!

[@user-tm4oe9yr4g]

Colin thank you very much for being proactive in safety, idea of this kind of videos is extremely important for everyone working in the shops... Also couldn't help myself and have to mention that your bench grinder behind your back missing proper guard , which is no/no in any case scenarios. Be safe and keep posting more of your thoughtful videos.

[@tonyd4346]

Thank you Colin! All it took is one to the ribs one afternoon making a cut to get me to pay attention. My father has the hot dog saw (that’s what I call it). He made the purchase after 50 years or more of woodworking because a year ago he cut a portion of his thumb off.

[@bertbennett2719]

Thanks, Colin. Always good to be reminded of basic safety. It's easy to get in a hurry and ignore the rules. I had my first serious encounter with kickback recently because I got in a hurry. Never again! The riving knife shalt be used!

[@ACAB_Media]

As for the blade height, I've heard lots of people say to cut with 1/2 the blade poking through, but in my opinion Stumpy explains blade height best in his "ENOUGH BS! Here's how high your table saw blade should be" video. In it he explains that the blade manufacturers suggest that you raise the blade to the bottom of the gullet, but also explains the advantages of sometimes raising or lowering the blade a little.

[@RicardoCristofRemmertFontes]

No. Colin is right. The blade shouldn’t be much higher than the work piece. 5-15mm should be enough. Stumpy Nubs injured himself twice. Don’t listen to him. Listen to the German cabinet maker safety board, who say exactly this.

[@omart609]

@@RicardoCristofRemmertFontes when did he injured himself?

[@garethlyons2678]

I broke my ocular bone three months ago from a kickback accident. The wood hit me in the face and the push stick heavily bruised my chest. Ive learnt my lesson, don't rush. Cheers Colin.

[@chrisgriffith1573]

Another big safety tip is to make sure that the blade and the fence are BOTH aligned to the guide grooves of the table top. If something is out of alignment, burns occur, and possibly jams and kickback. The number one reason for burning on the table saw is misalignment of the fence to the angle of the blade. Number two is warped wood, for me, at least.

[@g.dennisrobertson4970]

I have changed over to a SawStop Unit,always use all the safety supplied by the Co.including the proper "push Unit similar to the plywood one you showed only made of a plastic composite!

[@jameslee173]

I was taught that, before making your cut, to count your fingers! This just serves to heighten your safety awareness.

[@richpeggyfranks490]

Colin, Like you, I have been a woodworker for a long time. Unfortunately, after 50 years, I had a tablesaw accident. I was cutting 112 thin strips to make 4 louvered cabinet doors. I was using a thin strip jig which cuts the strip to the left of the blade. I was using a push block in my right hand and guiding the blank with my left hand. It was very hot (approx 105 degrees) and I had been working pretty much all day. On the 110th strip, I laid the fingers of my left hand on top of the blank, instead of guiding from the side. I cut the skin and meat from my middle finger, basically removing my entire fingerprint. Luckily, I missed any bone and fingernail. I was too hot, too tired and nearly dehydrated. I should have been using a push stick, etc., etc., etc. I can no longer say I've been a woodworker for 50 years without an accident. Please stay vigilant and safe.

[@LastFLlocalTiff]

Thank you so much! I’m new to wordworking and am so grateful I came across your page!

[@PeterPasieka]

Solid advice as always. I've watched few of the safety video on the table saw and the repetition is an excellent reminder that it's not a toy but a tool that can hurt if not used properly each and every time.

[@ToddfromCalifornia]

Good info, I use my table saw insert as a no finger zone . Its a good red visual aid to remind me to us a push stick if its that close .

[@OtterBeSwimming]

Great video, these things are very important to remember. Zero accidents is the goal! After talking with a surgeon who said he would lose significant business if people purchased tables saws with safety things like Sawstop has (note there are other options to Sawstop if one looks) I decided to get a Sawstop. The cost of the saw is small compared to the cost of a finger or thumb.

[@davidwinch7997]

Hello Colin. Very wise words and a great demo. "Complacency" was well described and I think Complacency mixed with working in a humid afternoon are huge danger areas. Good Table Saws are a awesome addition to the Shop but they have to be "well respected. Thanks for sharing. Cheers, Dave, Beachmere, Brisbane, Australia

[@philmininni5981]

5 Stars Colin. Kickback happened to me and it hurt. I always now take a count of time to review my next cut.

[@dennisbrown2571]

My tip is: lowes and home depot will rip and cross cut for you on wood sheets. They are accurate and save me from wrestling those big sheets at home.

[@joeymerrell8585]

Maybe so, but a lot of us are “professionals” and don’t buy wood from either of those places. Even if I did, I wouldn’t trust them to be accurate to the degree I build.

[@bradasskg11]

Maybe if you’re going for a rough cut that you can then re-cut on your table saw at home, but most home centers around my area will 1.) refuse to cut anything for you and 2. If they do cut your sheet goods for you don’t expect anything resembling accuracy or a clean cut. Those panel saws were installed when the store was built and probably hasn’t had a blade change either. The employees working there are either 75 and don’t care anymore or 19 and don’t care or don’t know how to operate the machine. Best advice would be to just use a circ saw or even a jigsaw to break your sheet goods down to a smaller size, much like Colin suggests here. It’s just too squirrelly on a smaller saw which a lot of hobbyists have.

[@alejandrocantu4652]

I was a shop assistance in the architecture program teaching model & furniture classes. The woodshop had a powermatic 66 with new riving knife or splitter. We had a few good rule one being the smallest peice you can rip with the fence had to be twice as long as the exposed arc of the blad. And absolutely no free hand cuts on the table saw.

[@catherinehargreaves9959]

yes, i agree with all you have said. people need to know why it is good too follow the rules and stay safe thank you ..jack from the uk..

[@semtex2987]

using the 2nd shown pushstick i always had the feeling of 'this could tip over to the left and my hand gets into the blade'. So i build myself 2 GRR Gripper style thingys which feels magnitudes safer and also has more control in all 3 directions as well.

[@ParchmentKH77ftw]

I will always agree that wherever possible a riving knife should be installed. I think a lot of manufacturers throw the extra guards and kickback brakes onto saws as a way to not get sued by untrained operators. Many of the ones I've seen are poorly fitted to the saw, difficult to install, and low quality. Some even increase the risk of using the saw. If I'm going to use gadgetry, I want one that's high quality that never binds or interferes with my operation.

[@bobd5119]

Excellent advice, Colin. About safety, we cannot be reminded too often.

[@tomblount5635]

If you are an experienced wood worker and doing any of the these mistakes, then you are really looking for an accident to happen. If you use any kind of cutting tool. You have to realize that meat is wayyyyy softer than any wood. It will and can give you serious injury. Hence missing finger and loss of vision. Txs for the refresher course in woodworking safety.

[@erallen97]

Thank you for the safety video. I keep my blade guard and riving knife on my saw most all the time.

[@NickBR57]

Good video Colin. I had some thought about kickback and throwback if I may draw a distintion between the material being flipped up and back (caught by the teeth) and slid back (by friction of the blafe). It seems to me there is another bit of mechanics involved in the case of the work being caught by the back teeth and thrown up and back. This isn't really about friction or number of teeth but is about the "moment" about the trailing edge that is a fulcrum. The lower the blade the closer the back tooth is to the trailing edge of the wood and therefore the less is the force of the throwback. This means that it is more difficult for your pressure on the proper push stick to be overcome by the saw. So this is actually critical. The riving knife is supposed to stop the case that you show where the piece is slid back at you by the blade friction. Obviously keeping the blade low is important but the riving knife is critical in preventing that friction. How many youtube videos have I seen with no blade guard and even no rivingbknigr? Hundreds. While I understand the need for visibility of the blade in some videos, most of the time it isn't necessary to take it off but still youtubers persist in doing so. There is never, as far as I can see, a reason to remove the riving knife. Kudos to people like you who point this out.

[@marbleman52]

NickR...Another point about the benefit of the riving knife: It keeps the wood from closing up on itself as it is being fed past the blade and increasing the risk of throw-back.

[@karlforster4907]

I always look at safety videos, I always learn something new and reinforce what I already know.

[@confusedgerbil1923]

Am currently recovering from a 'rushed moment' with my table saw 🙈 🚑 So appreciate your sage advice sir 👍 And thanks to those sharing the idea about putting a warning sign on the saw, will be doing that soon as I can flex my finger enough 🤣

[@leppad]

You are so right about the rushed moments. That is the time when you will see that the blade always wins. You’ve just done the cut 20 times and you are tired and nothing has happened so you begin to lose focus and perhaps even multitask. If you are very lucky you get a wake up moment, without injury but if you are not lucky… I have a 6 inch hole in the drywall behind me that is a stark reminder that physics doesn’t;t care if you just don a safe cut for the thousandth time,

[@stevebeaudoin7234]

Great watch, complacency is the biggest mistake we can make. its not worth it to rush the cut. I've been reading the comments and there all good. take your time , think about the cut, make sure your not putting your self in a dangerous spot. Lower that blade not only does it help with friction but saves the blade and get a push stick.

[@robertbamford8266]

One item you did not mention in this video is a feather board. For those discussing (and enjoying) older saws, I have a Craftsman saw from the 1970s. Milled, cast iron table and wings. No riving knife, terrible splitter, mounted a foot behind the blade, impossible to line up with the kerf. Anti-kickback pawls guaranteed to mar your wood. First and most important upgrade: Biesemeyer fence that actually aligns with blade and stays put. Second upgrade, Jess-Em stock Guides. They are easy to adjust and pull the wood into fence and prevent or reduce the possibility of kickback. (I tried Board Buddies, but they were just too finicky for my taste.). I added these items over the decades to improve safety as they became available.

[@Grumpa337]

Thanks for the safety tips. It’s always a good time to talk safety. I watch other videos and cringe every time I see them not use the safety equipment that comes with their saw. Keep up the good work.

[@thomask4836]

3:39 Colin, I know you raised your blade for your example but if your blade is picking up wood like that, then your saw is "heeling" because the trunion is out of adjustment. All of the newer cheap table saws today are garbage and the riving knife is just a cheap easy way to compensate for the lack of a good quality trunion adjustment. If the blade didn't heel, it would never bind on wood. I own a 1973 and 1978 Craftsman commercial table saw. Both have given me great service and neither have given me any grief since I got them after a good proper trunion adjustment to make the blade exactly parallel with the miter gauge slot first, and then to the rip fence. I've been using those saws for the past 50 years and I only had to do that adjustment once on each saw. A few years ago, I bought a Rockwell 7241 with one of those fancy "riving knife" features. The trunion is off quite a bit and their customer support rep told me if the saw heels less than 1/16" (.0625"), that is acceptable and they put a LASER on this thing. A laser! Might as well start putting lasers on shotguns too. 0625" or even less and makes that saw a safety hazard even with a riving knife. Its sitting in my shop collecting dust because customer support also told me there is no way to adjust the trunion. Adjusting the trunion takes a while but it is good time well spent. When I got my heeling to down to .0005" I was happy. Yep, one half of one thousanth of an inch. It takes patience but its well worth the time. A few seasoned woodworkers have great videos on KZbin on how a trunion adjustment is done. Back in 73, I followed the instructions in my Craftsman manual once and never had to do it again. Two other safety things I adhere to; 1. I NEVER stand in the kickback path of wood during a rip (although my saws have not given me a reason to practice this). 2. I ALWAYS use two push sticks when I rip. If I am ripping a large piece, then I always have one handy in my back pocket. I make my own. I also made an accessory hanger for the front of my saw which keeps them easily available anytime during a rip without putting my body in harms way. I don't have a need for another saw but if I did, it would definitely have an adjustable trunion. I'd prefer an older Delta or Craftsman. I told my wife when I go to the great beyond, please bury me in sawdust with those table saws by my sides.

[@leehaelters6182]

GREAT advice! When a buyer has the option, I say spend more to have a saw with that adjustment available, such as a used Unisaw that has the top separate from the trunnion, and able to shift into alignment easily.

[@thomask4836]

@@leehaelters6182 - Thank You Sir! Go on Craigs List and you can find a great vintage table saw for a fourth of what I paid for that Rockwell laser loser. There are a lot of great vintage saws out there for way less money with far more quality! You'll wind up with a great cast iron table instead of aluminum and plastic too! Best Woodworking Wishes! Tom

[@leehaelters6182]

@@thomask4836, I hope that some viewers have the courage to tinker with their machine according to your well reasoned advice. Please continue to dispense your knowledge, won by experience!

[@stuart6599]

Thanks Colin, the thumbnail had me worried for a second. 😆

[@nonexman]

I was pleased to see that you use a VERY similar push stick that I've been using for more years than I can remember. I had to admit that I was about to write a completely different message when I saw you holding that chicken foot. :>) I was amazed that one of the things that came with my SawStop was a black "chicken foot." So much for safety from them, while they do a great job for protecting any finger loss, kickback is something that they do not seem to be that concerned about. Let me point out a couple of other aspects about the push stick you do use that should be pointed out: 1st, after pushing the wood past the place, the tip of the push stick is great for pushing any small pieces away from the blade with your hand far from the blade. The other advantage is that these are easy to make and can be sacrificial. So if you need to cut something thinner than the thickness of the push stick, so what. let the blade cut into it. It's still usable until it isn't. At that point, you can either cut a new bottom and foot on the bottom. OR, if you've already done that several times, just toss it - you made extra, didn't you? And a bonus tip: on a jointer, you can use one of the friction push pads on the front of the board but use one of these on the back. It both pushes down and you can push forward with that little "foot" on the end of the push stick.

[@tausfeewright5612]

The most dangerous material one can cut with a table saw is 3/16 ply wood. If you set the blade too low the saw will have a tendency to lift the ply while cutting. Too high is exactly what was mention in the video when cutting 3/16 ply you MUST BE VERY CAREFUL as this will cause the most damage if you are not paying attention. Great video and for me as an experienced wood worker this is what I alway remind myself your machine are not your friend they dont know you and never will they ever know you , if we use them as if they know us they will hurt us, so treat then with repect and always obey there safety rules. Thats the only way no to get injury or a trip to the emergency room.

[@englewood1957]

Spot on regarding push stick and blade height. Plywood sheets are no problem as long as the table is large enough. Also, NEVER stand in a direct line with the blade.

[@frytjgvfdhc]

nice, these are probably the most helpful safety tips i've seen so far on youtube

[@Habibulla.M]

Very nice demonstration on the blade height...Thanks ... 👍

[@tomalealso]

agreed, well done! in addition to what you said, I stop before turning on any tool and double check my surroundings. I want to make sure that I can totally control the situation, I do not want someone coming into my shop while I am working, and I lose my focus while i am working, it could be very dangerous, ask me how I know?

[@andrewc0134]

I would add “Unplug and/or remove batteries when handling blades on power equipment.”. I assume Colin has his table saw unplugged during this demonstration, but I think it’s a good reminder!

[@juniorfigueroa2904]

Thanks for he video, as a newbie these are good things to know. The rising knife on my table saw has those spikes on (the ones on the rising knife)it but my issue is that the wood would get hung on them as I push through.

[@mb_a5383]

I wouldn't call myself a woodworker, I deal with facilities management (keeping everything working) at a yacht club. My work requires the use of a table saw (commercial grade) fairly regularly. I like to think of the table saw like a barking rottweiler, you never know when he'll snap and bite you. My favorite part of your video is the part where you advise to take a moment and consider what this machine is capable of and as a bonus (I know you do this Colin) I spend a good deal of time on set up. I'm sure it's not unique to me but I find that I spend a great deal more time on the set up than I do on the cut. And remember, jigs are our friends.

[@Being_Joe]

Thank you. Always looking for safety videos like this. I like having all my digits.

[@sonnyaluzzo4788]

This was really informative. I knew that the hight of the blade made the cut more efficient but I never made the friction connection. I will now always remember to make that adjustment before cutting. Thanks.

[@kengunnell6398]

Thank you for doing this video, I will look at my push sticks differently from now on.

[@diycentral]

Great info! Been waiting for almost a decade for someone to really drive some of these points home.

[@andrewmorris8531]

I’m a woodworking beginner and videos like these are always extremely helpful and really try to make sure I watch all of yours. Thank you. I do have a question, if I have a 6” wide board and I need to cut 1” off of it, what is the safest way? Should the 1” be between the blade and fence, or should the 5” side be between the blade and fence? Or it doesn’t matter at all?

[@oshtoolman]

thank you for the reminders. There is no such thing as to "many" lessons!!!

[@sandeshnarwade8477]

Superbly explained Sir, the best safety standards class 👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@prajabimehr8251]

I really enjoyed watching this video! Thanks for such great tips on using table saw.

[@jerry4249]

For any cuts I can use them I use the feather board pro to hold my piece in place. It makes for accurate cuts and I feel it reduces the possibility of kickback. One to the side, one above.

[@scottsimpey2965]

If you did need to cut a bigger chunk of plywood on the table saw for whatever reason, or even if it were just a long board, you can clamp something that you know has two good straight edges to the fence with extra coming off to sort of extend the length of the fence . I think it was John Heiisz that I see recommended this trick. I have tried it for ripping down a 8’ 1x8 white oak board and it worked really well.

[@natarajansugumar5671]

Very useful idea using push stick in what circumstances the type of wood used.Brilliant.

[@wilder7bc]

I bought a 749 Dewalt this weekend and just learned out to put the blade guard and kick back on it though it does not hold the cutting knife thingy as well. My wife had an old black and decker miter saw and a black and decker hand saw that has some rust on them. I keep watching videos and alot are about buying stuff but I have not even cut anything on the table saw yet just watched videos on safety and that sort of stuff so not sure about buying updated expensive miter from dewalt or the dewalt planar or other things thats suggested to buy. I figured maybe just put new saw blade on those old items and learn how to use them first as that dewalt 749 was already kind of expensive at 550.00 basically. I do have Makita drill and impact and want to try out hand saw from them but later after learn more about it and I figured till then the old plug in hand saw would be fine with new blade. I want to learn how to do things first still searching on here just started so hopefully find more stuff.

[@exmedic4509]

A bit of advise a friend gave me can fit with any tool, firearm or vehicle: The day you feel you are smarter than the motorcycle (table saw, router, pistol) is the day you get hurt. As an RN with years of trauma experience, I have cared for many accidents involving table saws, routers, nail guns, radial arm saws, chain saws, and drill presses from minor to life changing and from minor sutures to major surgery. Sometimes people are inexperienced and most of the time people have been using these tools for years. Whenever I see patients who have removed the safety devices from nail guns or blade guards from worm gear circular saws I just have to shake my head.

[@WoodWorkTherapy]

Colin, loved the video. Even as we get more experienced with the tools, I think it is still important for us to have these reminder videos or PSA as they say reguarding shop safty. I've had a full on kickback before, and I will tell you, I got lucky. I had a bruise from a tiny chunkof wood from a very thin peice of wood. I had a cut and a burise on my stomach for several weeks. Now that is luck. Had it been bigger then I would hve been in trouble. There was not much that I could have done as the board basicaly had some hidden stress and the non-held side shattered. However if I was not standing behid the blade because well complacent... I would have possibly missed the shrapnel. Wood working is enherintly dangerous. Something bad is going to happen. Best thing to do just like you talked about is mitigate how bad that is once something bad does happen. Great video. :) Thank you for all the good points. :)