The EASIEST 2-Frame Mating NUC Build Video on Youtube!

QUESTION - Have a question about Beekeeping equipment, wood-working, beekeeping products, small hive beetle or varroa mite control, or Anything Else? Post in comments section of this video. We may use your question for our question of the day video!
We sell these on our website here: www.funnybugbees.com/queens-b...
This is about as simple as it gets! You can make 2-frame mating NUCs for raising and mating your own queen honeybees. We give you simple step by step instructions, including all the dimensions you'll need to make your own 2-frame mating NUCs. Join us for another beekeeping howto video from Funny Bug Bees.
CORRECTION: In the video it shows a text bubble which gives the final dimension for the migratory cover as 19 7/8". I said though that it was 20 7/8". What i said was CORRECT, and the text bubble is WRONG. The correct final dimension for the migratory cover is 20 7/8"
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. This helps support the channel and allows us to continue to make videos like this. Thank you for the support!
Tools Used:
Hitachi Sliding Compound Miter Saw: amzn.to/31xST5u
Baileigh TS-1248P-52: amzn.to/2BuMtd0
Incra Miter Sled: amzn.to/2MX6zC7
Kreg Precision Miter Gauge System: amzn.to/2Xo9qbS
DeWalt Compressor: amzn.to/32ZdhNV
Hitachi 18g Crown Stapler: amzn.to/33YXzUh
Hitachi 15g Nailer: amzn.to/33TRiJr
Lumber:
2 pcs 19 1/8" x 10 1/4"
2 pcs 3 1/2" x 9 1/2"
1 pc 20" x 5"
1 pc 20 7/8" x 5"
6 pcs 2" x 5"

[@danskisbees7348]

Nice job Clifton! Thanks for the ideas.

[@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks]

Thanks Dan!

[@jpthedelawarebeeman6239]

Welcome back Clif - Thanks for the how to video.

[@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks]

Thanks JP !

[@josephwoodall832]

Really enjoyed this video good info thank you.

[@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks]

you are welcome Joseph

[@chan108dra]

super excellent vid ---appreciate your hard work

[@juicychills7546]

thanks for the video mate. from Thailand keep safe

[@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks]

Thanks, you too!

[@dennisbrown650]

Very good tutorial thanks

[@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks]

thanks dennis

[@beebob1279]

Just make everything from 3/4 inch lumber. Adjust your measurements on the front and back to make it work.

[@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks]

These plans do use 3/4" lumber in the video

[@thepitpatrol]

Nice!

[@chriscox6598]

Thanks 👍

[@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks]

you are welcome Chris

[@3cav84a]

Thanks mate from South Australia, I am going to make a dozen or so of these but first I will have to convert measurements to metric system, good video

[@TheBushkanga]

How did it go? Do you have the metric translation? 😀

[@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks]

Just type in "SEA to metric calculator" in Google and it will pull it up for you, takes just a second.

[@stevesoutdoorworld4340]

Great job thanks for sharing.Have you tried making any out of 3/4 plywood?

[@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks]

no but 3/4" plywood would be the same thickness and require no changes to the dimensions i give. Just make sure to use untreated, the off-gassing from treated is known to mess with bees pheromone detection. Use untreated and just wax dip the boxes, they will last for a decade.

[@timgoodin42053]

Enjoyed your video, planning to build a couple of these in the coming weeks. Any disadvantages or advantages of a 2 frame vs a 3 frame?

[@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks]

the only advantage is the number of bees you need to seed a 3 frame with is higher than a two frame. So with limited bees, you hav3e to let loose of fewer resources to get these done as they literally take 2 frame sof nurse bees from an existing hive, and of course a newly emerged virgin queen.

[@bobwebber8521]

Very good video. Great camera angles and commentary. Just wish people would reduce the 'guys' as they go along.

[@George-nx5lo]

love 2 frame mating nucs but unfortunately im poor lol so I just have to use 5 framers I build from plywood and drop a frame feeder in so they are 3 framers, more universal and a lot cheaper.

[@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks]

Good point but for me it is more of a question of "cost over time". Plywood, while "a little" cheaper doesnt last nearly as long as hard wood and therefore over the course of a few seasons the hardwoods just come out cheaper in the long run. At least in my experience. Dont get me wrong, I use a lot of plywood, for 5-frame nucs i sell as well for for swarm traps. Durable boxes though, that i intend to keep for several seasons just last longer and cost less over time out of hard wood.

[@deborahabercrombie9461]

perfect mouse house with that big door way

[@jasonrasheed7670]

Thanks so much. I'm a convert. I notice one of the key differences between 5 & 2 frame nucs (obviously apart from the size & vol) is the lack of ventilation hole. I wonder if you can add a 1 inch ventilation hole on the back panel under the cleat?? I just made a 2 frame mating nuc based on your design, adapted for 3/4inch plywood, sealed, glued, screwed & painted along with the half inch front & back as per your dimensions. Thanks so much, very good vid.

[@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks]

sure thing Jerra, and yes, you can of course put in a ventilation hole covered with #8 hardware cloth!

[@lilbitlevan]

What was the length of the original piece of lumber? I realize it is 3/4" thick, but was it a 6' or longer board? BTW, I really like that you support the 2nd 😊

[@0hleg]

Why not make a big box compartmentalized? Always wondered this, why does barnyard bees for example not use big boxes with 4 compartments? Is it because if one dies that is more area for the bees to heat up?

[@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks]

It's just what ever the keeper finds easiest for them.

[@m.whetstone881]

Hey. These are on barnyard bees as 9 5/8 inches deep. They should be as deep as possible for frames that have QUEEN CELLS. Located on the bottom. So a one by twelve is 11 1/4 inches wide this should be left as is not ripping it down. For your two sides.

[@exchiefkeith]

Spending extra to get wide lumber then ripping it down is silly too.

[@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks]

I don't understand your point as the one i build here is 10 1/4" deep, depper than the one on barnyard bees, so I think your point is moot.

[@tonyaburton5376]

I made mine 2 frames and a sugar feeder wide inside so i dont have to make another box for up top for a feeder

[@joshhollingsworth4541]

There is a place that sells hard wood plywood super high but would last for ever how many 2 fame boxes do you like you could get out of a 4x8 sheet

[@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks]

if you used a planning app to lay it out, probably 5 or 6

[@ziree22]

The wood is crooked as a hoop , doesn't it need to be flat? Does it really matter what kind of measurement you use ? Because if seen bees go in all sorts of sizes to claim as their hive ... from dresser drawer to an attic ,wall , hollow tree etc.

[@merlefunk4032]

I need the measurements of a 8 frame DEEP HIVE the sides front and back bottom and top. Thanks

[@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks]

Standard is 19 7/8" long x 13 3/4" wide x 9 5/8" deep for 8 frame

[@clovishaynes8749]

What are the plans for these 2 frame matins nucs?

[@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks]

they were in my head. Ill get em up on our website in the next couple days for you

[@nataliemartin4721]

Where did you get that glue dispenser?

[@ronfults3844]

I bought mine on Amazon.

[@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks]

It's called a gluebot get them on amazon at this link: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006IUW8G/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0006IUW8G&linkCode=as2&tag=funnybugbees-20&linkId=8b824644a41cc41288c2b53d9d9b3c03

[@jonathanswoboda]

Mine look similar but like to do a plywood bottom.

[@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks]

Hey Jonathan, what do you like about plywood bottoms thats different from solid wood bottoms?

[@jonathanswoboda]

@@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks The reason I use plywood is the same reason drawer bottoms are all mdf or plywood. Solid wood tends to contract and expand significantly in one direction, perpendicular to the grain. The sides of your boxes will expand and contract up and down with humidity, which is fine. The bottom will try and expand sideways and will put extra stress on sides. Its probably not a huge deal with only a 5 inches, I guess I am extra paranoid. My boxes look the same as yours except the plywood bottom and I routed a 2" x 1/8" vent at the top of the back, too small for bees to in and out.

[@jonathanswoboda]

I made 6 of these last winter: imgur.com/a/KSTk7cV

[@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks]

@@jonathanswoboda True it does, i like your thinking..... But :) Ive never had anything I built though expand to the point of failure. Wood glue and nails are just to strong. In wood-working we understand that most woods will expand and contract up to 7/1000ths of an inch. This is normal of all woods. If things expanded and contracted to the point of failure though, none of us would be able to build anything out of wood without it failing. I think the benefit in longevity of solid wood vs. plywood far outweigh the possibility of a solid wood expanding or contracting to the point of failure. Plywood soaks up far more moisture and is far more prone to uncontrolled expansion due to this trait. Its why wood boxes last longer than plywood. Anyway, good point to think about, so i appreciate your comments.

[@evanbell3238]

How have your 2 frame NUCS worked out for you?

[@jarnold8803]

Can you talk about your air gun and compressor. 🐝

[@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks]

sure did you have specific questions? Or just wanted to know the make and model? The make and model of both is in the video description, but im here for more specific questions, feel free to ask!

[@jarnold8803]

I am going to attempt building my hives and I don’t have a clue to what what need and what works together

[@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks]

@@jarnold8803 go cheap until you know your going to keep building your own equipment. at a minimum youll need the following tools that I cant live without. Table saw (contractor saw is fine) A good Dado blade set for your size saw arbor. I really like my Freud dado stack. a life time tool, but expensive. A cross cut sled. You can make one that is just as fine as one you buy. If you want to use finger joints instead of rebate joints, youll spend more money on a good finger joint jig. Incra makes a good one for a table saw, or you can get one from Rockler for your router. Or just use rebate joints, they are plenty strong for making bee boxes and require nothing but the dado blade already listed. A 32" metal brake for making the metal tops for your telescoping lids. They are cheap, bench mounted and a ton easier to do than folding by hand. With the above listed tools you can make anything and everything for beehives, from the bottom board to the telescoping tops. Do i use other tools? yes, but they are to make it more efficient, not to enable the job to be done. Once you decide you want to keep building hives, then invest in things to make your life easier. Like compressors and air tools, or an actual beehive box finger joint machine, which I have, and at $4000 is a serious investment.

[@ancagafencu6946]

Hi are these good for Langtroth frames?

[@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks]

Yes

[@downunderfulla6001]

🍻🍻

[@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks]

Lol Bradley, what is that emote?

[@downunderfulla6001]

two glasses of beer, after I have watched a video, I always use them. Sometimes by themselves or after a comment. A table saw is on my list.

[@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks]

@@downunderfulla6001 lol ok, my eyes are getting so old i couldnt make what they were out, haha...

[@kevinsummitt5902]

staple size?

[@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks]

i used 2" 18g 1/4" crown staples.

[@davegrandeffo330]

The ridiculous hat doesn't make you any more credible. Just sayin'....

[@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks]

its a baseball cap, how is it ridiculous? I see you wearing an exact style hat on your profile pic.

[@davecavana1031]

@@FunnyBugBeesandWoodWorks maybe he knows his hats.