The EASIEST Automatic chicken coop door opener!!!

Too many plans are way too complicated for something that should be so simple. Take a look at how simple it can be.
UPDATE: Lots of requests for the wiring diagram, so here's the link: imgur.com/a/LE...
UPDATE: As I wrote in a comment, the solar charge controller is UNNECESSARY with the solar panel I use. It has overcharge protection built-in.
Visit us at swayzehomestea...
Someone asked for links to everything I bought, so here we go. These are affiliate links, so please click them so I earn a commission! It won't cost you a penny more.
The entire kit can be added to your Amazon cart with the click of the following link:
kit.co/SwayzeH...
The only additional item you'll need is 6 1/4" Quick Connect Terminals you can get at any auto parts store. I'd link to them on Amazon, but it would cost way too much, and you'd have 96 terminals laying around for no reason.
Or, if you want to order them individually, use the following links:
Car antenna: amzn.to/2hXuO40
Solar Charger (the one I ordered isn't available, anymore, but this one is essentially the same thing and has good reviews): amzn.to/2HBIZJH
Digital Timer: amzn.to/2xPBG9U
Battery (I think I got mine at walmart, but if you don't want to run out, you can order this one. It comes with two bolts for attaching to the studs which is nice.) : goo.gl/KPrjav
Wire connectors: I tried to find some big enough for the battery bolts, but no luck. I'd take the bolts to an auto parts store and ask the help to find some that are the right size. You'll need 4. Also 4 1/4" quick connect female spade terminals.
Wire (This is 25 ft. Should be more than enough.) : amzn.to/2h6hgWP
That's about it! Oh, and some wire cutters/crimpers. amzn.to/2AcCirQ
Hope this helps!

[@loraleesmith9861]

OMG. Thank you so much! You are my hero! Coop door installed and tested. Works great! Now, I just hope it lasts longer (5 days) than the expensive automatic door I ordered from Amazon.

[@barneycarparts]

Great Idea. I heard in the summer, at dusk, when the chickens won't go in, you can put a bright light inside the coop and that will coax them to come in earlier.

[@SwayzeHomestead]

I've heard that as well, but to be honest, out of the 100 or so chickens I've had, none of them have had a problem finding their way into the coop. They just naturally seem to want to go in.

[@fergrn]

like it. i was a bit dubious about an antenna motor however i think it will more than do the job seeing your set up. now just some personal ingenuity and make it happen. thanks for the video.

[@ballycally]

Loved your video, it's why I watch KZbin, to see how innovative people can be. No fat on your design, again I loved it. Now I need a chicken!

[@imajarhed]

Awesome!! Thank you for posting this! It was exactly what I needed to get mine running. I already had a 10g cord ran to the coop so I went with a 12v charger instead. Works perfect.

[@AP-cd6kq]

Many thanks for the video and specific list! I ordered the items and look forward to putting it all together as soon as they arrive.

[@chancefouts8120]

Simpliest get effective video I've seen so far!!Thanks for the help!!!!

[@Chris_KS5KY]

So much easier and I plan to give this a shot. I knew the other ones were overcomplicated but couldn't put my finger on it why I thought that. You helped me figure out what I was missing. Radio signal wire...that was it. The only thing I may do different is have it open the door when the antenna is shut off versus on.

[@SwayzeHomestead]

Glad I could help!

[@SwayzeHomestead]

@@AztecWarrior69_69 The door doesn't close in the extended position. Watch the video at 3:20. You can clearly see it retract the antenna and close the door.

[@ipromisemusic]

Do you have a construction/build video? Everyone would love to see how you attached antenna to doo, etc. Simple stuff yes but you have an amazing simple design we would all like to diy :)

[@UnitedWeStand2020]

I've been looking for a simple way to make one of these. I like your idea. Well done!!

[@SwayzeHomestead]

Softail Mann actually, I changed it up a little recently so I need to update the video, but I'm glad you liked it!

[@huntingwithpride]

Thank you!! I have been searching FOREVER on how to wire these up correctly. Although I Plan on using this setup for led lights instead of a motor.

[@taze27]

Thanks for this! I live 7 miles from my plot of land where I raise a flock of chickens. If I can mimic this design, it'll really save me some trips back and forth. Great coop door!

[@rwelch7109]

My first iteration used a car antenna but I found the problem is that the strength of the "up/down" action was extremely limited to move a secure door or if ice or snow was to block opening. I now use a 10" actuator that does the job perfectly in all weather or with any weight for a secure door.

[@SwayzeHomestead]

That's great!

[@dougiequick1]

I used a cheap electronic magnet a spring and a timer really super simple if you have power to your coop not self closing but we need to check the chickens a couple times a day anyway so this was a really good compromise for us ...the spring I used was just a screen door spring $3 at TS ...the door magnet was Amazon I think less than $15 and any timer with on and off will work ....All told it was less than $30 and foolproof! I set the timer to energize like at 5pm and turns off at sunrise time....we simply go down every night and make sure door is clear and just pull it closed so the magnet holds it then with the timer denergizes the spring yanks the door open! Cheap and simple! You could also use a 12v magnet and a battery and have a little solar charger to charge the battery ....worse case if the battery crapped out early the door simply opens as opposed to the fully automated doors which I would just stay closed ....a disaster if you are away on a weekend

[@patrickhlavinka6364]

Nice job. Very simple and cheap. Also like that you have the option to close the door horizontally or vertically up or down. Most of the kits you can only pull the door up and it can't be very big. This is a great fix to that.

[@michaelepps6700]

It's a good idea, but the reason for the weep hole at the bottom is to drain off any water that collects inside of the box. I built one with it upside down and it didn't last long because the condensation cannot drain and it fries the motor. It needs to be upright if you want it to last several years...

[@SwayzeHomestead]

Interesting. Good to know.

[@davidandivankadifelice1998]

simple and well thought out. i wonder if it would work with a dusk to dawn sensor in place of the timer?

[@SwayzeHomestead]

It absolutely would! I chose not to go that route because the hens would sometimes stay out past dusk and I didn't want them caught outside. But if your girls head in early, that's totally an option.

[@davidandivankadifelice1998]

good point. mine get in really early so i think it should be okay and if it becomes a problem i can always swap out the sensor for the timer. if i can bother you one more time, how long did your battery last? i am a little worried that power is being drawn for half the day to keep the door open and that the battery won't last long with such a load on it.

[@SwayzeHomestead]

@@davidandivankadifelice1998 Yeah, that would absolutely work. Concerning the battery, the draw is SUPER low, since it's only drawing power to extend the antenna, then drawing power to close it again. It's not constantly draining.

[@davidandivankadifelice1998]

i didn't know that, i thought it was constantly drawing power to be in the open position. thanks so much for help, much appreciated.

[@SwayzeHomestead]

@@davidandivankadifelice1998 No worries! Let us all know how it goes!

[@quasimodo5177]

Can you make one video with a photosensor? THX

[@concert610]

I've done something like this but my actuator closes much slower. 18" opening and takes 1 minute 40 seconds to close. I needed two 5 pin relay and two timers. Your antenna closes really quickly and the setup looks so much simpler, and cheaper. I love having an automatic door, good or bad weather I don't have to deal with it and the birds are safe every night.

[@ClickinChicken]

Hi mr. swayze, what about when the chickens sit at entryway of coop door, they crap on everything! that will get in way of door sliding. You'll have to hang a paint scraper. chickens crap in their water, in their food, you name it!

[@SwayzeHomestead]

Yep. They sure do! Usually about once a week I'd clear the track to make sure everything was operating as intended. A quick swipe with a paint scraper is a great idea! Wish I'd thought of it...

[@zz2121]

It great and your correct too many versions that are real complicated , I'm like you , keep it simple

[@ukbeeps]

Love the design and simplicity of this system, I do feel the door to fast closing may injure a hen. So would you think a motor speed control switch would be a good idea?..

[@SwayzeHomestead]

I only had one hen get caught, and it was really my fault I think. I was tinkering with it and scared the hen into the door as it was closing. So I wouldn't worry about it. Most of the antennas have a safety feature that will stop the motor if it encounters resistance. Some will reverse direction and open back up if it feels that resistance. I really don't think a speed controller is necessary.

[@ukbeeps]

@@SwayzeHomestead Ok thanks also is it possible to shorten the antenna by cutting it down or will it effect its operation? I'm now in the process of gathering the components but feel the antenna is going to be way to long.

[@SwayzeHomestead]

@@ukbeeps No, unfortunately, you can't cut it down. I don't remember the measurement, but I think it was about 2.5 ft. So if your coop is less than that, this might not work for you. Good luck!

[@SwayzeHomestead]

If you wanted to shorten the distance, you'd have to use something like a linear actuator. But that would require a lot more electronics, and additional relays, etc.

[@ukbeeps]

@@SwayzeHomestead Ok thanks again I'll keep that in mind.

[@stan2012]

Hello...congratulation for that awesome chicken coop door opener!!i bought all staff and i cant connect all things together as you show in this video... can you please make a sketch of connection?thank you very much!!!

[@SwayzeHomestead]

Here's the diagram I put in the other comments. Should answer all your questions.

[@speedbuggy7240]

Swayze Homestead, what is the distance of travel of the antenna?

[@SwayzeHomestead]

Don't know off the top of my head, but if memory serves, it's approximately 2 1/2 ft. Whatever one you buy should have an extended length listed. Unless you get lucky at a junkyard.

[@Camh1968]

Hi, How’s this going ? I have read through entire thread of questions And answers below. CN you provide the latest video for your modified design including detail of the current controller you have?

[@bjski4557]

Can I use a smaller 12 volt battery instead of a car battery?

[@SwayzeHomestead]

Sure thing! This setup barely uses any power, so the cheapest 12v battery will do. A car battery is overkill. The one in the video is a small garden tractor battery I picked up at Walmart I think.

[@bjski4557]

Thank you!

[@LonghornWorkshop]

Hi I am doing this and so far so good. Question, can you show how you attached the door to the antena? If you have a picture? The antena fully closed does not have anywhere to tie in the door?

[@SwayzeHomestead]

To attach the antenna, I put the round head in a vice and pre-drilled a hole, about the size of a sheetrock screw. Then I used that sheetrock screw to attach it to the plywood door.

[@dimitrimBE]

Super simple! Big thanks!

[@fitzgeraldhawkson9740]

Hi there, great video. Quick question: where does the ground black wire go? Also, when the timer breaks the power to the blue wire, how does the engine retract the antenna if there is no power? Many thanks

[@SwayzeHomestead]

The antenna has 3 wires, red, black and blue. Black goes to negative on the battery, and red goes to positive on the battery, so the antenna always has power. In a car, the blue wire would go the radio, and when the radio turned on, it would give power to the blue wire. When the antenna gets power signals from the red AND the blue, it extends. In this case, the timer is acting as the radio, and is opening and closing the circuit. I have to say though, I just completed a new door opener, which is MUCH nicer, because this one broke. I need to get it uploaded and I'll post a link when it's done. Hopefully tonight.

[@fitzgeraldhawkson9740]

Swayze Homestead many thanks for taking the time to explain. All is clear now.

[@tonynewsome9078]

When you say it broke, what part of the system failed exactly?

[@robdevoy7878]

Swayze Homestead any update on the new system and what broke from the old?

[@simontheboywonder]

Hey Swayze Homestead, love the video. Any new link for the solar panel, old one's done. Thanks again, great setup

[@SwayzeHomestead]

Here's the same one. amzn.to/2tQtAxB

[@simontheboywonder]

Swayze Homestead perfect, thanks

[@BootlegBrogle]

if i have a Wall outlet in chicken coop, is it possible to not use the solar panel, Solar Charger and Battery?

[@SwayzeHomestead]

Not with this set up. Well, I suppose with the right amount of engineering you could, but the 12V car antenna would have to be converted somehow to 120V AC...I'm not sure how to accomplish that...

[@B3RG3RS0N]

Thumbs up for using same charge controller as mine👍

[@mantas0205]

Nice, I'll have few questions later this month, because im gonna build coop and im totally bad with wires and this stuff :/

[@SwayzeHomestead]

Let us know how it goes!

[@SwayzeHomestead]

@@AztecWarrior69_69 I specifically avoided linear actuators because of the damage they can do to a chicken caught in the doorway. The weakness is a feature, not a bug.

[@LightPleasures]

It's been 3 yrs now. How's the parts been holding out?

[@SwayzeHomestead]

Up until the coop fell apart about a year ago, all the parts were going strong.

[@SwayzeHomestead]

I've reused most of the parts in the new coop. A couple of terminals fell off, little things like that...

[@teriannfaatuiese9932]

hello, I am installing an automatic chicken coop door for my universities chicken team, did you ever get the chance to upload the updated video of your new coop door so I can follow that? would be much appreciated, if not I will just follow this one and the digram you posted in the comments and hope for the best.

[@SwayzeHomestead]

Do yourself a favor and install this one. My current set up is proving to be more a of a pain in the butt than an upgrade. If I ever Do get it all sorted out, I'll post a link.

[@teriannfaatuiese9932]

@@SwayzeHomestead okay, should i still install the charge controller then or should i follow the diagram you posted in the comments?

[@SwayzeHomestead]

@@teriannfaatuiese9932 Definitely do NOT install the charge controller. The solar panel has built in overcharge protection. Follow the wiring diagram in the comments. Good luck!

[@teriannfaatuiese9932]

so how did you connect the car antenna wires to the timer because the connectors that come with the one you suggested to by are a bit long I'm just new to this whole electrical stuff I have no clue what I am doing@@SwayzeHomestead

[@SwayzeHomestead]

@@teriannfaatuiese9932 Just follow the wiring diagram. The third wire (usually blue or green) needs to be cut at a length that will reach the timer. Crimp two quick connect terminals to the wires, and attach to the circuit side cobnnections (right side if looking from the front) of the timer. That's it. The timer opens and closes the circuit to the antenna.

[@cottinghamdrive]

Great setup! Can you explain more in depth how you connected the tip of the antenna to the wood door please? I don't have much of a lip to work with. Thanks in advance

[@SwayzeHomestead]

To attach the antenna, I put the round head in a vice and pre-drilled a hole, about the size of a sheetrock screw. Then I used that sheetrock screw to attach it to the plywood door.

[@grandma2maj]

Can you share the amazon link to that antenna motor?

[@SwayzeHomestead]

amzn.to/2hXuO40

[@bjski4557]

Did you eliminate the charge controller? When I look at your wiring diagram it isn’t included. Thank you.

[@SwayzeHomestead]

Yes, the charge controller is unnecessary when using this solar panel. The solar panel has built-in overcharge protection, so they conflict with each other, and the battery won't charge. If you follow the wiring diagram, without the charge controller, you'll be a-ok. 👍

[@bjski4557]

Can you give us the item number for the charge controller. I’d like to try the solar set up that Richard mentioned, but need to know which charge controller to order.

[@SwayzeHomestead]

Sure thing. Here's the exact one I bought: amzn.to/369TwpM (affiliate link)

[@quasimodo5177]

The best idea👍👍👍

[@cameronsheridan5997]

Great Job....problem with a timer is that you have to keep changing the time over the course of the year....best to use a Dusk/dawn switch and a simple DPDT Relay and you are done and never have to touch it again...

[@SwayzeHomestead]

While that is true, my intention with this setup was to remain as simple as possible. Yes you need to change the timer a few times a year, but for those folks that don't know how to wire a DPDT relay, this is simpler.

[@bjski4557]

Do you have any idea how you would wire the controller so you could use it without a switch. One of your viewers said he did it, but I can’t get it to work. I’ll order the switch if necessary, but would like to try to get it working this way if I could. Thanks in advance for your help. You also said you improved yours, but I haven’t seen an updated video. Have you make one?

[@SwayzeHomestead]

Sorry, I'm not sure how to wire this to make it work dusk til dawn with just the solar panel. The user that said that was Steve Millar, so maybe you can contact him somehow. I'll do a little digging, but I'm not sure I'd want a dusk til dawn setup. My girls sometimes stay out a little past dark before heading in, so I'd rather be able to set the timer and know they're inside before the door closes.

[@bjski4557]

Swayze Homestead Thanks!

[@SwayzeHomestead]

@@bjski4557 So, Upon investigating further, it seems you can indeed set this for dusk til dawn with the charge controller. According to the manual ( elinetechnology.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/ELI-SOLAR-ChargeControlerManual.pdf ) on page 2, lighting mode 01 would be dusk plus 1 hour. So this would shut the door 1 hour after dusk. Plenty of time for your chickens to go inside. You'd have to get a different solar panel though, one without the overcharge protection, because this solar panel didn't play nicely with the charge controller. They interfered with each other. But if you can source a weatherproof solar panel without the overcharge, you'll be in business! Just wire it through the charge controller and forget the timer.

[@adambartlomiejmiklaszewski1917]

very intresting approach :)

[@juanpa980]

Where did you get your timer?

[@SwayzeHomestead]

Amazon. Click on the link (affiliate) in the description and it'll take you to the one I bought.

[@budgetfor5withstephanie]

i made this exact set up for my coop, worked like a charm for months until i hooked up a 12 volt fan to the battery i was using..now my charge controller isnt working. i see below you said you dont need one. im going to try and re-set it up using the diagram you provided.

[@SwayzeHomestead]

Yep, it's unnecessary. I'm willing to bet it'll work like a charm when you take away the controller.

[@SwayzeHomestead]

Did you ever solve your problem?

[@ynocoolnamesleft]

hey uploader, why does the "entire kit" link in the description have a ""Electromagnetic Power Relay with Socket Base" and two "Micro Switch SPDT" but as far as i can tell it's not in the video or imgur diagram link? It is also missing a timer so i am wondering if these are required as i am not very experienced in making these things. thanks

[@SwayzeHomestead]

My apologies!!! That was for an experimental set up that I have yet to perfect. I fixed the kit. The only thing you'll need is some quick connect spade terminals. I'd put them in the kit, but the cost is way too much when you can go and buy the six you need from an auto parts store for way less.

[@ynocoolnamesleft]

@@SwayzeHomestead thanks a lot i was confused for a moment. thanks for the easy video too

[@SwayzeHomestead]

@@ynocoolnamesleft You're welcome! Again, my apologies for not double checking the kit.

[@juliemorabito5449]

Hey! This looks awesome and I want to copy you. Do you have links to the parts so I can just get whatever you have in your setup and not have to do the homework!? :) Thanks so much for this simple solution to keep my girls safe at night!

[@SwayzeHomestead]

Absolutely! Although I need to make another video with updates as my design has changed a little. You don't need the solar charge controller. The solar panel has overcharge protection, so the controller is unnecessary. This will actually make it even MORE simple. I'll put some links in the description. They are affiliate links, so I'll get a commission from the sale and it won't cost you a penny more!

[@patrickburrows9041]

@@SwayzeHomestead hey swayze....have you done the coop door upgrade as yet?

[@SwayzeHomestead]

@@patrickburrows9041 Indeed I have! Although, it hasn't worked out well enough that I'd feel comfortable putting the plans out there. Still working out the kinks...

[@harkidodia2513]

Good job. Can I ask how long did that walmart battery last?

[@SwayzeHomestead]

Still using it as of January 2019. Just keep it topped up with the solar charger and that sucker should be good for years.

[@quasimodo5177]

The best👍👍thank you

[@ariceset1460]

How much watt is your solar panel?

[@SwayzeHomestead]

Copied from an Amazon Answer: The manufacturer's website says 70 milliamps, which into a 12.6 volt battery would be 900 mW or .9 watts.

[@Dizzlaeus]

Should have done a demo of it working.

[@SwayzeHomestead]

You know what? This was take number 4 or 5 of this video, and in every other one, I did demo it working. I never realized til now I forgot to in this one...Wish I hadn't gotten rid of all the old footage. I'd have spliced it in. *EDIT* I rewatched it, and it clearly shows the door working at minute 3:20. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nX3LfpidnNGCi7s

[@deanngreen8912]

I can’t program this crazy timer!!!!

[@zz2121]

Can I get a part # on the 12v timer

[@SwayzeHomestead]

No real part #.. Here's a link (affiliate) to one on amazon amzn.to/2H27pfy

[@markclemmens2862]

How long do you think that battery would last assuming you didn't have a solar panel?

[@SwayzeHomestead]

Mark Clemmens When the connection to the wire broke, it lasted about 3 days...

[@smithpianoservicing3421]

Thank you! Very easy

[@boualememhamed5205]

good job . that's amazing , thankss

[@Edwin-ds8ze]

did you get any beddings/chicken mess up your motor?

[@SwayzeHomestead]

zephy Ng knock on wood, not yet. I don't think it will either. Those antenna motors are pretty well sealed. I think some preventative maintenance every year wouldn't hurt, like oiling the gears. But so far so good.

[@Edwin-ds8ze]

that's good to know, thinking of using some additional pvc pipe as protection with a slot cut out. but job on the way as well. Thanks for all the info!

[@SwayzeHomestead]

I'd be interested to see how that comes out.

[@ZenOfChem]

Clever, now I'm thinking of similar methods. Thank you.

[@SwayzeHomestead]

No problem. Hope it works out for you!

[@alainpieri4650]

Awesome. Excellent explanation.thank you

[@SwayzeHomestead]

Alain Pieri Thank you! I REALLY need to do an update video. Hopefully I'll get to it this afternoon.

[@juanpa980]

Got it, thanks

[@mattmcfly2165]

Great job! I'm doing it

[@sealacat]

thankns

[@biggrantlewis]

Thanks 🙏🏻

[@stevemillardlm]

Can I just say, you don't even need the timer. Use the load outputs from the charge controller and the door will open as soon as sun hits the solar panel and close again at sunset.. The charge controller has the timer function already built in.

[@mucholangs]

Interesting idea. The only problem I see with that is what happens on cloudy days when the sun does not come out.

[@stevemillardlm]

@@mucholangs I'm 100% off grid on the Isle of Skye and have inside lights that come on at night and switch off at dawn. You have to remember, solar doesn't need sun, only light. On the charge controller itself, you can set timing on/off in 30 minute intervals, or as I have it, set the timer to '0' which means on or off dependent on light hitting the panels.

[@SwayzeHomestead]

Hmmm...I'll investigate this...Sounds interesting...

[@mucholangs]

@@stevemillardlm I did not know a controller can be used in that manner. Good idea. It also simplifies the wiring. In my case, instead of using the setup for doors, I use it for submersible pumps. If you have a slow well, you may want to run the pump at intervals through out the day. For example 30mins on, 30mins off 12 different times in a day. I don't have the controller near me to test if it can do timing.

[@bjski4557]

Richard Sci - He doesn’t have the item number listed for the charge controller. Do you know what it is? I would like to use the solar option to open and close the door. Thanks

[@dougiequick1]

If you have 120 power nearby just slap an outlet in your coup (and motion controlled light too? So you can work in the dark and also scare predators?) With a 120 outlet you won't need the battery and solar panel either...simply buy a 120v D12v DC power supply on Amazon ....about $8 to $20 or so depending on amperage load ...2 amp Max power supply is $8. And it comes with a plug in terminal block ....the power supply looks like all the rest of em that come with electronics and appliances .....it even has the special plug ....but you just plug the terminal block adaptor and connect your antenna/timer set up right to that instead of a battery ....Just saying if someone thought you have to have a battery ....only need a battery if there is no power to or next to your coop. I imagine a power antenna motor does not pull much amperage ....any one know? back yard hens thread two people said only 1.3 amps but another said 5 amps are ....one nice thing about using a 120 volt to 12v adaptor is it is intrinsically protected whereas the battery set up requires a fuse to be safe from fire

[@SwayzeHomestead]

This is true, IF you have 120 power nearby. This installation was meant to specifically address an inexpensive 12v system without relying on 120v power. Running 120v out to your coop PROPERLY and to code can cost hundreds of dollars at the low end, and thousands at the high end. This system is CHEAP and will work regardless of power outages, and just short of a nuclear winter. In which case, you have a lot more to be concerned about than your chicken coop.

[@appplguy1]

Best yet great idea

[@ISUSharpie]

Don't your chickens peck at the wires?

[@SwayzeHomestead]

Nope! At first I had considered wrapping the wires in that protective sleeve stuff, but the chickens didn't even go near the wires. Well, maybe to look and check it all out, but not to peck at them.

[@RedfishInc]

Power antennas starting at 20 bucks on eBay.

[@SwayzeHomestead]

I'll have to update the links. Thanks!

[@johnstone9396]

I don’t want it to be over complicated so here’s a bunch of random wiring and mis matched components, I hooked the wires here but I’m not sure I have to but somehow it seemed to work, let’s hook it to this acid filled car battery and this doodad and that doohickey , Banda bing Banda boom bobs your uncle chickens are out!

[@540mxjamie]

It’s not complicated…… easy actually.

[@nolimeplease]

Lol.

[@bigmacdaddydaddymac]

What was the overall cost of everything?

[@SwayzeHomestead]

I don't remember the exact amount of the top of my head. I bought me antenna new, which was around $50. And I think the rest of the parts cost me around another $30. If you go to a junkyard and you're lucky enough to find a used antenna for cheap, it can be done for a lot less.