The Easiest & Safest Method Of Screw Cutting Threads On The Lathe.

[@TheFuneralDirector]

superb, i think your the only machinist on KZbin to explain bore sizes for a thread, if i could thumbs this up a hundred times i would

[@SteveJordan]

Hi....Thanks for watching.

[@Man-in-da-shed]

Hi FD. Nice to see you here

[@rct2]

This is the best thread cutting video I have seen, this will help me learn thread cutting on my ML4 Many thanks

[@Paladin1873]

I've cut some threads manually by inserting the chuck key in the spindle and using it to rotate the work, but I've never seen a manual crank operation done like this on a motorized lathe. Neat.

[@caroleast9636]

I have a Myford lathe and a crank handle is a standard accessory. I regularly use mine when cutting threads, particularly when cutting in towards a shoulder. Powering into that position is way too risky.

[@Paladin1873]

@@caroleast9636 I know the feeling. I normally cut enough relief to get away with it on some jobs, but I have to stay on the controls - and the pucker factor is always high when using power. Otherwise I switch to manual operation. If the shoulder is too high, I use a die and manually operate it over the last half inch. A neat trick I learned a few years ago from another video was to invert the threading tool and run the operation from the rear, forward. It seems almost counterintuitive but it works.

[@philf5043]

I never thought of making a handle to turn the lathe. Excellent .

[@MrSpydow]

Hello Steve your idea about the chip shield worked perfectly I used m5 threaded rod cut them to about 4 inches and slipped on the aluminmum tubing 5 id 1o od . I used 5 m wing nuts to secure . the beauty is the rods and the tubiing support the chip shield . Awesome Idea Thank you

[@vgnfab]

7 minutes in and I'm learning so much from you! Glad I clicked on this and can't wait to learn more. I already know I must get a caliper clock, I need to turn an obsolete awesome set of bike cranks I have- now into machinery crank levers of sorts! And it's inspiring to be reminded of the joy of making threads that don't have to conform to any standards.

[@jeremysaunders9916]

Have not done any thread cutting yet but this is the method I will be using. Thank you for the video, very clearly explained.

[@sistermaide]

I like your lite humor. 😊 Great demo, I'll be trying it too. Thanks!!

[@haroldpearson6025]

As follows the method I learned as an apprentice toolmaker and as shown on the Colchester Lathes training film. Set the top slide over to half the thread angle and set the cut depth using the top slide. Grind the tool with half the thread angle. Set the cross slide at 0 with the tool just touching the job. Move the tool away from the job using the cross slide. Wind the carriage back to clear the job, put the cut on using the top slide and return the cross slide to 0, engage the nut at the appropriate number.

[@eCitizen1]

You have inspired me to make a handle for my mini metal lathe.

[@jeffryblackmon4846]

This is very safe to avoid crashes and not break tools. I like your idea. Besides making nice threads, you get a little exercise. Thank you for this demonstration.

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Jeffry....Thanks for watching....Regards Steve

[@robertlewis4666]

Thanks for posting this Steve. My threading tools and 10 spare inserts arrived yesterday, I bought the same set as yours from BG. I finally ran down the Zeus booklet and now the mystery of internal and external diameters for threading is solved, B.T.W I have also made the expanding mandrel modeled on yours for my mini lathe. Thank you so much for taking the time to do your postings they are much appreciated. Rob - from South Africa

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Rob. Thanks for your feedback. Great that you made the mandrel for your lathe. I have had a Zeus book all my life even though one can find the info online it is something I always refer to. I am really pleased with my Mini Lathe and have used it to make so many precision parts. Hope you do well and have a great time using yours. I hope to show some more machining videos soon. Best Regards Steve

[@gmarch4618]

that wrench you use on the tool rest looks very similar to a type of wrench once used on EMC data storage (Symmetrix) cabinets.

[@shlomoattia7706]

thank you, great video . i really appreciate this video .

[@josephkay1]

An example and instructions from the mind of a practicle engineer, makes perfect sense to the amatuer like me

[@jimhailmann7052]

Awesome idea, I have a large 15" lathe but will try the crank. Dont know at 83 if i will be able to reach the handle and have enough strength to crank it. I will give it a try...

[@philf5043]

I tried your method today . I wanted yo cut an internsl thread on new crankcase I am making for a small diesel engine. The thread needed was 32 tpi. Getting the gears right on my very old Myford lathe , I think its an early lm 2 , was the hardest part. I couldn't fit a handle soused the large pulley wheel and turned the thread quite easily. Thanks again for the video.

[@intotheblue50]

Thank you Steve for showing this, it takes the stress out of thread cutting.

[@SeriousSchitt]

Can I use my Imperial Boxford Lathe to cut a Metric thread?

[@eihabal-hussaini7564]

Agreat job and explanation, and the best thing is providing the links. I can't thank you enough. I pray to Allah that He bless you and grant you good health. Thanks a million.

[@guyloren]

Thank you SO much for this invaluable tutorial Steve,my next turned project can now be multi-part without living in terror of the lathe!Brilliant,much obliged sir.🏆

[@KnolltopFarms]

Thank you, this will be a great method for me. Not only am I a novice, but I also have a standard change-gear lathe, so there's no lovely gearbox levers to adjust on it. Changing gears really isn't that difficult, but it does take time adjusting backlash...not to mention the research I have to do to make sure I have the right gears in the right places :)

[@SteveJordan]

+Knolltop Farms Hi Thanks for watching. I do not have a gearbox either and it does take up some time. I only change the gearing though if I am cutting standard size threads. If I cut non standard I tend to leave the gearing set for 19 tpi like in the video. I may do a video on the gear changing on my lathe sometime....it took me some time to figure it out!!

[@headstocktailstock]

Another well explained video Steve, I use my winding handle on my lathe for threadcutting too, another reason I clear the tool on the return stroke is if there's a slight amount of backlash between the leadscrew & the half nuts the tool will bind on the work & make a wider cut than needed,I've oddtimes "forgotten" to remove the handle after finishing & turning another job & the lathe gives an unpleasant shake!!! he he.

[@ChrisB257]

I've done this method quite a lot over the years - for some reason I often used a 26 TPI pitch whatever the dia. I too use a spindle handle a lot for screw cutting. Like those clock calipers. You have a great collection of measuring gear.

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Chris, I really like this method the best now. I just do not have the quick reactions I had when I was younger. I have managed to get the calipers etc for really good low prices on Ebay lately. I look out for stuff on there that is listed to end at odd times, when other people tend to forget when to bid.....like when there is a important football match on the TV....:)

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

Great job of threading. The Myford lathe has some nice features. The threading handle is a great tool and I like the flat cross slide with all of the "T" slots. That would be a good feature on any lathe.

[@SteveJordan]

Hi...Thanks for watching

[@subevo35]

Superb instruction.please make more .

[@eldonashbaugh493]

Thought you were crazy at first but it makes a lot of sense. The older I get the slower my reflexes are so this looks interesting.

[@paulsotheron710]

Excellent, thank you. I have never attempted screw cutting in the lathe, always been nervous about it but your technique seems very simple and straightforward. Given me confidence to give it a try. 👍

[@springwoodcottage4248]

Most interesting & useful & crash free which suits me greatly given I once crashed my ml7 & broke the half nut making me very wary of power feed. Also very interesting how you move back in time to before Mr. Whitworth when there were many thread sizes & make what suits your job. Makes sense as I often struggle to make things to be a standard size when often there is no real need. Nice thread cutting tooling too. Thanks for sharing.

[@pgs8597]

The hand crank is so simple and controllable, great. Peter

[@AdeSwash]

Another great video Steve, I had never thought of thread cutting with the manual crank method, excellent idea :)

[@SteveJordan]

Thanks for watching. Regards Steve

[@nexxo00]

I know, right? That makes SO much sense! I'm off to make a manual crank for my mini lathe now!

[@sandmang1098]

I cut left hand threads on the mini lathe by reversing the lead screw rotation on the back of the mini lathe and use your hand crank design. works real good!

[@SteveJordan]

Hi....That's great......Thanks for watching.....Regards Steve

[@garylalonde6494]

I really enjoy your videos Steve! The indepth explanation you provide in your all your projects are superior and very rare to see for these types of videos. Thank you for taking the time to share your expertise, uncomplicated methods for the deferent type of machining practises. It really helps a great deal for hobbist like myself. Thanks

[@SteveJordan]

+Gary Lalonde Hi Gary thanks for watching and for your encouraging comments. I hope to put some more videos on soon. Regards Steve

[@MegaChekov]

all the best to you Steve and yours from John in Texas

[@davidwootton683]

This is brilliant, I am going to have to give this a try. Many thanks and greetings from Africa.

[@SteveJordan]

+David Wootton Hi David.....thanks for watching..Regards Steve

[@VincesEngines]

Great idea , especially for the inexperienced like myself . I like the bike crank for the handle.

[@rayfalcone6897]

Steve,you make it look easy every time...cool video.

[@russowens4696]

That has to be the best explanation on how to thread I have ever seen! And thanks for the description of the book.

[@yachtsteve]

Thanks Steve that was great tip. I knew about not Gorey and with getting the exact right gears, but I had never thought of that cutting it manually with my spindle handle

[@MrNigel1340]

Thank you for an excellent video and links to the tools although not quite so easy on a colchester student lathe.

[@andym5195]

brilliant and thankyou for this, im not scared to do this anymore and actually cant wait to try!! awesome spindel mandrel idea as i have a ml7 too, game changer video for me this is thankyou steve !!

[@anthonycash4609]

Hi Steve great video. The more I watch the more I learn from you. I also made a crank handle for my South Ben once I seen yours. Use it mostly with my tap and die set. And yes as a beginner I am terrified of crashing the tool trying to cut threads with the lathe but not now got a new way of learning it. And also I was able to make a indexing plate after talking to you out of a sprocket I found at my local farm store. Just had to bore the center out to fit the back of my chuck and bolted it onto the back .It has 30 positions not 24 could not find one 6 inches in that count. Works great. Keep up the videos.

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Sharon....That's great. I never thought of using a sprocket, what a great idea! I use my lathe handle a lot for all threading. Also it is great to use if you have a chuck that screws onto the spindle. I hold the chuck with one hand while using the handle, with the other, which makes it much easier and safer to do. The only thing I have to be really careful of is when I am working quick, or get distracted, is to remove the handle after use. I have actually started the lathe with it in the spindle by mistake!! I have recently made a couple of new handles and I have found a nice small red LED warning light that will fit easily on any handle. This is another safety measure I use to stop this happening again.....I hope to show this in an update video soon. Regards Steve

[@DavidJones-we2ex]

Thank you! You are the only person on youtube that fully explained threading. I had a question specifically about bore sizes, i need a chart. Thankfully your videos are here.

[@johncoops6897]

You still need the chart. There is no other way to know what bore size is used for a particular pitch.

[@dboycurtis]

Thank you so much for this video. It has made me more confident to attempt threading my projects.

[@OthamJohn]

It works a treat - 3/8" x 16 tpi for the 1-2-3 block and M12 for the T nuts on the mill - in stainless as well - perfect. Thanks

[@mauriceeley621]

would you use this method for imperial thread ? Other videos i;ve watched set the cross slide at 29 1/2 degrees

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Maurice Yes I do use this method for imperial and it works perfectly every time. I don't think you need to set the cross slide at an angle if you are using carbide inserts as they have a perfect profile. Regards Steve

[@aceroadholder2185]

The idea is that though the cutting tool has a 60 deg profile, by setting the compound to feed at slightly less than 30 deg the tool is cutting with the leading edge and not dragging the tool's heel which may gall the flank of the thread. Perhaps not so important with carbide tooling, but a hand ground high-speed threading tool only cuts on the leading edge.

[@leonadeau2849]

I watch a lot of your videos and really appreciate the depth and the thought you put into them. I have a 1942 model f atlas and do a lot of work and use a lot of your ideas. thanks a bunch

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Leo, Thanks for watching. I've never used an Atlas lathe. They look well made like the Myford Lathes. Hope to do another video soon. Regards Steve

[@rawlinswanger1219]

I like the crank...gives you more control

[@orchardwatchandclockrepair8346]

That was brilliant. I am totally new to a lot of this. Thankyou for all your advice on types of tools very skilled and interesting.

[@MsLeguman]

How to do the anti slippering grid on the the outside of the brass ?

[@SteveJordan]

That is done with what is called a knurling tool.

[@soothcoder]

Hello - that looks quite easy. Not sure but I've seen other machinists angle the compound to match the thread angle and then feed in on that rather than the cross-slide. I think the theory is that it just cuts on one side of the tool then.

[@rustbeltmachine]

I've done it both ways. They both work if the bit is sharp and set up correctly.

[@philiphartley8823]

Yet another great lesson from Steve. The man to watch for learning. Thanks Steve.

[@dobe762]

As a complete beginner this was very useful, I'm trying to buy the holders/cutters and was wondering is the cutters in the round bar holder the reverse of the A60 or the same just a different holder. Sorry if its a silly question! Oh and I looked down below, just don't see the links.

[@tonywaller680]

Your are the best,,,thanks for taking the time to set up the cameras giving us excellent coverage of your projects ..TW canada,s west coast

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Tony, Thank you for watching and your encouraging comment....Regards Steve

[@CanadairCL44]

This is one of the best home workshop videos I have seen, so I have subscribed! I'm interested in buying my own small lathe so any pointers would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.

[@broonlife]

Hi Steve. I have just made a hand crank and indexing hub, as per your earlier vid, many thanks for making it so clear and simple. In this video, you are turning a metric 24mm thread, and I am keen to try it for myself. My mini lathe ( almost certainly similar to yours) only has change gears for up to a 2mm pitch, but 24 mm calls for a 3mm pitch. As an inexperienced machinist (me) that is, does it really matter what pitch I set? Or should I just set the maximum I can and just use the correct 60 deg indexable tool? I’m not cutting to match another internal thread, just something else I will also cut. So I’m guessing that to a certain degree anyway, pitch will not matter.

[@ctrlaltdude]

This is a very interesting video! I was always weary of cutting threads on a lathe but this way it is really easy and safe to do. Thanks!

[@bikerides8907]

Excellent. I really like the hand crank idea. I must look back through your videos to find the instructions for making the crank.

[@amanofmanyparts9120]

I'd love to work out/see how this idea could be adapted for the Chinese mini lathe. Once I install a decent pillar drill and mill there won't be close to enough space in my small back garden workshop for a second late!

[@johncoops6897]

The video shows you how to do it in ANY lathe. Doesn't matter if it's Chinese or not.

[@davidharper4289]

APU..................excellent..................more than.........Thank you so much for your time. David from"Downunder"

[@fredschmidt3148]

Thank you for sharing this outstanding method ! I was totally unaware of this but recognize the versatility and reliability it gives.

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Fred, Thanks. It is particularly good for very fine threads with a short run depth. Like the components you get on optical equipment plus other similar items where it is almost impossible to use conventional threading methods. I do use this method for any threads I have to do now though. Regards Steve

[@johncoops6897]

The other essential is a tailstock tap and die holder for cutting standard sized threads. That is much easier than using this method.

[@SteveJordan]

Not for large diameter threads, though.

[@johncoops6897]

@@SteveJordan - no, probably only for 12-15mm maximum.

[@strokedriedrie]

The problem with lathe and mill etc work is standardisation, all thread every hole must be made, so everybody can reproduce holes a tread and other machining work. I am glad that at least one person who steps from the standardisation ladder and just produced what HÉ likes, thank you!

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Arend.....Thanks for watching.....Regards Steve

[@moorem99]

Never seen this before and what a great idea for those who may not have the kit for professional operations and for working in the smaller lathes.

[@SteveJordan]

LINKS FOR THE TOOLS USED IN THIS VIDEO:- BORING BAR/U-CUT TOOL. (Great For Thread Bores & Thread Back U/Cuts). S10K-SDUCR07 Lathe Turning Tool Holder -- goo.gl/4CH2yg SCREW-CUT TOOLS & INSERTS Drillpro SER1010H11 Threading Turning Tool Holder -- goo.gl/S11tBB Drillpro SER1010H11 Threading Turning Tool Holder(US warehouse) -- goo.gl/gtywBt 10pcs 11ER A60 Carbide Inserts External Thread CNC Blade-- goo.gl/AzfndJ SNR0010K11 Internal Lathe Threading Boring Turning Tool Holder -- goo.gl/QVve6s Drillpro 10pcs 11IR A60 Carbide Insert Internal Threading Insert -- goo.gl/4mcctc Drillpro 10pcs 11IR A60 Carbide Insert Internal Threading Insert (US warehouse)-- goo.gl/T57S7q These prices are amazing considering that the same tool in the UK is up to 4 times the price. Also the carbide inserts from China have improved considerably over the years. I find they last nearly as well as the more expensive branded ones. Also remember that it doesn't matter whether you use a metric or imperial insert for non standard threads, as long as you use the same type in both the external and internal thread tool for a particular component. Also when using a carbide inserts for screw-cutting there is no need to set the compound at any particular angle.

[@Larry1942Will]

It's always interesting to keep in mind for us guys, on the other side of the pond, that here imperial threads (inch) are thought of as being the same angle (60) as metric as opposed to British standard threads @ (55.)

[@raymondmarteene7047]

Hi Steve, great video, have see you use it before but great to have it explained. I also have an ml7 built in about '65 in really good condition, was wondering if you would consider doing a video walk through of your lathe and its modifications and use of the Myford lathe, back gear etc. there doesn't seem to be much on Utube on the basic operations of these lathes. Once again thanks for the work you put into your videos. Cheers from Australia Raymond

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Raymond, Thanks for watching. Yes I will try and get round to that sometime. My lathe was made in 1936. My brother did a lot of restoration work on it and I put new counter-shaft bearings, a new spindle mandrel and bearings and a new motor plus several other bits. Also I changed the motor pulley for a larger one (as stated in the ML7 handbook), giving it better speeds. Regards Steve

[@Georxs]

My lathe hasn’t got a hand cranking option, is there a way I can use this method? Thanks

[@ctrlaltdude]

I think you could make some sort of an anchor in the back similar to a wall plug where the material can stick out. Then attach a crank to that.

[@ShevillMathers]

Brilliant, never seen anyone post such an easy way to make (in my case fine pitch camera filter threads) on short homemade adapters for telescope and lens fittings, some with only 3 to 5 mm long work pieces. The conventional way is very tricky to say the least! Thanks for sharing, I have joined your channel. Used have an Myford Super 7 back in the 1960's before I emigrated to Tasmania 😃 land of sunshine and clear skies for astronomy.😁

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Shevill, Thanks for subscribing. Yes it makes everything a whole lot easier for threading. It should be excellent for doing those fine short threads you have to cut. I actually use this method all every time I do the screw-cutting now. It has made thread cutting so easy and I haven't had one failure since using it. I do actually think that it was used as a method a lot more throughout history than we realise. I have spoken to other engineers that cut the threads like this. Sounds great in Tasmania and the astronomy must be so interesting, having the clear skies!! Regards Steve

[@mecanizadosgrela7380]

Congratulations, is very simple your method. I like. Thanks.

[@glennfelpel9785]

Very good demonstration on threading. Really like the technique of hand powered threading. I am thinking you forgot to add the tool holder and insert numbers. If you could still do that it would be much appreciated. Thank you for your effort doing these videos.

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Glenn, Many thanks for watching....I have just included the tool numbers and insert types in a comment above. I will do this where applicable, on other videos, within a day or two of uploading. My Regards Steve

[@SteveJordan]

I had to edit the tool numbers......I think they are all correct now!

[@Tempest500]

Hey Steve, I am about to press Buy on Ebay on some inserts and cutters, but am curious will 10mm ones deffo need machining down to fit a QCTP? I have no means currently to take a few mm off you see so wondering if I'd be better with 8mm but I like the idea of using 10mm as they have a bit more meat on the bone.

[@SteveJordan]

+Tempest500 Hi they will fit the toolpost ok It is only if you are using the Myford lathe that you may need to take a bit off the underside of the tool to be able to get centre height. I will just check the 10mm one....be back in a moment

[@Tempest500]

Ah sorry should have said it's for an ML7

[@SteveJordan]

Yes I have just checked it. I have been using the 8mm one myself. I just tried a 10mm one on the lathe and it does looks like the tool-holder will clash on the underside. The 8mm one is perfectly good enough though, I have used it on all materials without any problems. Regards Steve

[@SteveJordan]

I forgot to say....It is only the the turn tools that need to be under 10mm square. The BORING TOOLS I use are up to 12mm diameter and DO NOT need any alteration to the shank to achieve the correct centre height

[@Tempest500]

Excellent, cheers for checking Steve, very much appreciated.

[@JimmiePorterAtStuartArts]

That is fascinating. Great demonstration. Threading is on my list to master.

[@Golo1949]

Great method, thanks.

[@Golo1949]

Finally got round to cutting my thread, using this method I managed to cut a fine thread in brass with excellent results, hand winding takes all the stress out of it. Thanks For the tip.

[@jasonyannuccelli2499]

That’s fabulously simple.... thank you. Being quite new to Lathe operation, I have been too nervous to have a go at thread cutting but after watching your video I’m confident that I could safely do it using your crank handle method. I also have an ML7 ... have you made a video on how you made that facility ? I enjoy watching your videos. Many thanks 🙏

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Jason Thanks. I have made a handle video but I have since made a simpler design. I hope to do a video on it as soon as I get time. Great that you have got a lathe. Regards Steve

[@jasonyannuccelli2499]

Steve Jordan Thanks Steve. I’m very much looking forward to that video when you get around to it. Many thanks

[@mattgue3452]

Okay now I gotta go and build a hand crank for my lathe.... Then I can use it during a power outage too =)

[@Sctronic209]

Do you back that out a certain amount?

[@thomaschandler8036]

Enjoyed learning from you, keep up the good work

[@dharmjitsingh6028]

hi sir your all videos so nice n very useful

[@dwightcarlson7136]

It appears that you only use the cross feed rather than using the compound set at 29.5 degrees and advance the compound and only use the cross for zeroing?

[@SteveJordan]

Hi yes I did on this one.

[@paytonmac5665]

Thankyou have homemade lathe this will work perfectly for me ty

[@TheMicroTrak]

Can you drag the tool back on the reverse stroke? ( Without backing the tool of the work piece?)

[@SteveJordan]

Hi you just wind the spindle handle in reverse and it feeds back in the thread exactly the same.

[@paul.newland]

Not quite - the backlash in the gear train means that the tool will never be in the same thread on the reverse stroke. Also, you’d never cut larger threads or threads in steel by plunging directly in with the cross-slide like this - you’d always use the compound offset at just under half the thread angle so you’re only loading the cutting tool on the front face.

[@wadestewart9891]

very nicely done Steve never thought about doing it that way thanks for sharing

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Wade....Thanks for watching...Regards Steve

[@julianbonser6091]

Hello Steve - do you provide modelmaking services. I need to have made a small pulley for a Leslie speaker cabinet to get the vibrato speed correct. Thands, Andy.

[@gauravrajput7180]

Thanks for information

[@ivomatthe7716]

Superb video again, especialy for someone who like the tricks from a specialist! One question about the Thread Dial Indicator, can you explain how it is used ( in the video i don't see the detail, perhaps it's easy but for a novice...)

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Ivo Thanks for watching.... I actually forgot to mention this important point. You do not need to use the thread dial indicator at all for machining threads in this way. As long as you leave the lead-screw half-nuts engaged all the time until the screw- thread is finished. This is what I like about this method. It cuts out much of the set-up you need to use if you were to machine threads using the motor. Plus like I say, you don't need rapid reactions for cutting threads. If you try it you will be greatly surprised at how easy thread-cutting can be done, plus it gives the ability to make a wide variety of items......Regards Steve

[@ExtantFrodo2]

This video makes me see the ned for a hand crank for my lathe. Yup yet another project on the to do list. Thanks. (no sarcasm intended)

[@KnolltopFarms]

Ha, my thoughts exactly ExtantFrodo2

[@cazevedo77]

Very nice method for cutting threads ! thank you for sharing your knowledge !

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Thanks for watching....Regards Steve

[@audreymeschkuleit3466]

interesting, doesn't the machine backlash going from Forward to Reverse cause problems with the Pitch Forms?

[@Critical_Path]

I don't see why it would. As soon as he moves the carriage in the direction he happens to be cutting the thread (towards the spindle), the backlash is taken up in the leadscrew. Unless you mean something else?

[@rinklestiltskin]

He asked about the change of direction, but when going from forward to reverse the tool bit would remain stationary until all backlash is taken up.

[@dharmjitsingh6028]

all of them so nice I'm try to learn from you thanks sir

[@jcarter8195]

Just OUTSTANDING,,,,,will save this newbie a ton,,,

[@davedunn4285]

Steve I must say that you are a fantastic teacher mate I have learnt so much from watching your instructions mate . Can I use the the lead screw to achieve the same results

[@johncoops6897]

Using the lead screw is the ONLY way to do it. You have to set the threading gears to the particular thread pitch that you desire.

[@davidkerr8614]

Amother brilliant video (as usual). Dom in Belfast.

[@SteveJordan]

Thanks for watching...Regards Steve

[@olhemi1]

Very Nice job

[@CNCFONTAINE]

Hello, good idea, is it as easier on steel ?

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Yes it works fine on steel with light cuts and use of cutting oil....Regards Steve

[@CNCFONTAINE]

Ok cool, thanks!

[@GpunktHartman]

I've think twice if it makes sence, because of i learn this Job and also to use the clutch to reverse the Spindel & Tool in quick reaction. But several Answers here shows the other hand... i growing also older ... and yes it might be a option after the next crash 🤩

[@rayfalcone6897]

very nice video Steve,very well explained.....

[@geoloussian5856]

Thank u for the idea Any link for the quick tool post changer ?

[@larry400]

Amazing workmanship and skill. Great job explaining and showing the details. Can't wait for the next video. :)

[@ryanb1874]

Cam you thread steel material with compound indeed methout but instead of moving z over by the tan of 30 times the individual pass depth. But since you cannot to this w halfnuts, you will bastardised the dial a little at a time, up to 45 degrees on a lathe with a dial counter that has the standard 4 whole numbers?

[@martinolesen9930]

Hello Mr Jordan, are there a minimum size and maximum size thread i can make with these bits you youse, can they make M3, M4, ......up to M10 forexampel?

[@jerrypeal653]

Great idea

[@kentdixon5716]

learning a lot from your videos, thanks for posting!