How To Make A Quick Release Spindle Handle For The Chinese Mini Lathe

[@SteveJordan]

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[@davedunn4285]

After making a new handle yesterday mate I am going to have to make this myself Love your videos mate

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Dave. Thanks for watching and for your encouraging comments. Regards Steve.

[@TReischl1]

As soon as I finish building the bench for my lathe I will be making one of these. I really appreciate your sharing this information. KZbin has become my "go to" to learn how to do things and get ideas. Even though the video is now 4 years old it is completely relevant. Once again, thanks for taking the time to create these videos.

[@ricksweetser1683]

Outstanding video! My mini lathe is all apart right now rebuilding and improving. When it is done, this will be one of the first of many planned projects. GREAT work sir.

[@garylalonde6494]

Just finished building this quick release spindle handle and it works great. Without you sharing this idea, along with the detailed explanation on your design and excellent video machining demonstrations, I would not have ever thought up such a tool or have been able to contruct it on the first try. Thank you for sharing Steve.

[@ramonmichaud3004]

I made mine out of a bicycle handle bar stem, and piece of flat bar and a file handle.

[@johncoops6897]

Excellent idea to save machining up the mandrel tapers!

[@robertlewis4666]

This is a brilliant attachment, I made one a few weeks ago, and today I cut threads on my mini lathe for the first time. Really easy with no worries about running into the shoulder etc. Again, THANK YOU for posting Steve!

[@Hix-Design]

Great video. I've been looking into different designs for a spindle hand-crank handle and this one seems to be the best one thus far. A great project to work on, and an invaluable tool to have once it is completed. Good work Sir!

[@mikewilson696]

I'd be very interested in a video showing basic setting up of tools, getting the correct angles to the work piece when approaching different operations and the correct tools to use. Also something on speed settings for different materials and diameters would be very helpful. There are many basic lathe videos out there saying 'this is the head stock' etc but it would be great to see a video on getting basic lathe work right. Thanks for the educational and interesting videos so far, I've really enjoyed watching them and especially this one.

[@ronaldcrowder404]

Another nice tool . Im going to use that mandrel also for indexing on back of the lathe .

[@kogcyc]

Earlier today I stumbled upon your channel while looking for videos about vertical milling slides. After watching one of your videos I went and looked for directions to make a hand-crank for a Chinese mini lathe. I didn't have to look very far.

[@garysimmons1631]

I like these videos so much I started binge watching them and forgetting to comment. Your videos are great and are helping me to learn machining.along with other channels. I inherited my fathers Lathe and knee mill and am determined to master manual machining which he never taught me. You have a new subscriber from Galveston Texas. Have a great day.

[@moosemansteam]

Just made my own version for this - thank you for your excellent clear and patient videos...you clearly put an enormous amount of effort into these, they are absolutely invaluable. Thanks again.

[@ddistrbd1]

Steve ,so far I've done most of your mini lathe projects , like compound locking screw , rear guard bolt upgrade, die holder that attaches to the tailstock,etc. and now I've been working on this quick release spindle handle. so it is safe to say ,you have been quite inspirational .looking forward to seeing more projects,I find them all very interesting .keep it up.

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Thank you for watching and your encouraging comment. I have quite a few new projects I hope to do for both lathes as I get the time.....Regards Steve

[@jethro_xd]

Steve, I just finished my hand crank for my mini lathe. I followed your design, made a few alterations to suit my needs.. absolutely awesome idea. I can't thank you enough for posting this. Wow what a great addition to my lathe. I'm very pleased with the results. Thanks Steve!

[@SteveJordan]

+Jethroxd That's great. Thanks for watching and for your feedback. I hope to share some more ideas soon....Regards Steve

[@paulbodypumper1]

That is brilliant you are very knowledgeable I guess you are a engineer by trade thank you I love you videos

[@stemer1149]

What a brilliant idea, thank you very much for sharing. I particularly like how you describe in detail how you made the mandrel and the cone, because that's easier said than done.

[@SteveJordan]

+Stemer114 Hi Thanks for watching. I hope to show another method of doing this soon. Thanks for watching. Regards Steve

[@jasonyannuccelli2499]

Once again.... that’s Fantastic Steve. We have spoken before about the Myford one.. I think I will adopt this project piece and adapt it to my own Myford ML7. Cheers mate

[@robertlewis4666]

Thank you so much for posting this idea (with all the measurements etc), Steve. I have just finished making mine for my Chinese mini lathe. - Robert from South Africa

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Robert, Thanks that is great. I'm pleased you like the idea, you should find it really useful. Regards Steve

[@larrynelson734]

Very very nice idea. Would love to make one of these. 😊..

[@timothyolaerts789]

Excellent! This will be my next project. Thank you, and well done!

[@pgs8597]

Nice work, must make one for my mini lathe, also like your balance of metric and imperial sizes within the same sentence, it just rolls off the tongue so easy. We Australian have been metricised for nearly 50 years but old blokes like me still use imperial off hand, a thou makes more sense to me than.0254mm does but in larger sizes I'll use metric over fractions any day. Have a good one, Peter

[@glennfelpel9785]

Thank you for the answer to my question on the saw slitting process. I understand what you are saying, had not thought about holding the work. Thanks again.

[@tonyamendolara5515]

Thank you,, I've been trying to figure out how to attach a handle on the back of my lathe,,, your method will be perfect for me,, as soon as I get to my house I'm starting this project

A useful tool. suitable for even larger lathes Thank you for posting..

[@douglasstovall2395]

Thank you so much for this video. It's just what I needed. I'll be making one of these soon. Your presentations are excellent!!

[@stephentayler1414]

Hi Steve You are right this is a brilliant tool. I have just completed mine and I found it a satisfying project. It is very useful and a great idea. I was sick to death of tapping by using a spanner on the jaws of the chuck :) I think if you took x number of different people I think you would get the same number of slightly different designs. But basic principle is the same and it works really well. Mine locks up with less than a full turn of the nut once the slack has been taken out. I did the slitting on the mill as I am not geared up to mill on the lathe, not yet anyway ;) Really glad you put up this video Steve. Very well done and thanks for posting.

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Stephen Thanks I'm pleased you like it. You must have got the expanding mandrel spot on. I use mine for all tapping now and never break any taps. It gives a good feel of the tap cutting. I accidently left my handle in the Myford the other day and started the lathe. It nearly took off...:) Thanks again for your feedback....Regards Steve

[@bekanav]

You can buy cheaply expanding mandrels of different sizes, they are used for concrete fixings. There is a thread on other end, for pushing the cone and to attach something (like a shaft of a spindle handle) of course. I made a chuck for gear blanks using one, it works very well. It has huge gripping power because cone has so low angle

[@SteveJordan]

What an excellent idea. I will have to look into that. It's surprising the things you can buy that can be adapted for use on the lathes etc. Regards Steve

[@bulletsdodger]

Excellent video Steve.

[@jskelton11]

Brilliant, that’ll be my next build! I could have used it almost every day! I get so tired of hand turning the chuck when using taps/dies. Thanks for sharing!

[@SteveJordan]

IMPORTANT UPDATE:- There is no need to make the locking pin device with the grub screw, as shown, to hold the back part onto the mandrel. If you make these parts a good fit, (say about .001"/.002" clearance on diameters), you can just use the Loctite 638 to secure these two parts. (For more info see my other mini lathe indexing handle video). This makes making the handle quicker and easier to make.

[@tectalabyss]

Hello Mr Jordan. Brilliant Job. I have been using your how to, videos to improve my mini lathe. Thank you very much for your time and effort. All my very best. Bobby

[@Stefan_Boerjesson]

Thanks for this instructive and inspiring video. At the time 21:55 You start drilling the sliced end of the bar. Why not do that drilling before saw cutting it? The interrupted cut can't be a favour, can it? Why not do the slit sawing after time 26:50, when the internal cone is ready? Time 29:30. What do You think about using the same tool post angle, running the lathe backwards and cutting on the rear, back, side of the brass? The angle would really be the same.

[@terrygriss4132]

Very good tool I'm definitely going make one soon.watched lots of your clips very interesting and have made the die holder tool for the tail stock and the drill extension for the tool holder works very well.cheers tel

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Terry, That's great...I'm pleased you like the tools. Thanks for watching and your encouraging comments...Regards Steve

[@joell439]

Really clever. Thanks for sharing in detail!

[@SteveJordan]

Thanks.

[@ofujuncky]

Wow you are really clever! What a great project! Thank you yet again!

[@elviopereira]

Fantastic, I have learned a lot from Mr. Steven many manyThanks

[@wilsoncheng3819]

Thanks Steve for a great tutorial! I've managed to find a cheap handle crank online that looks great. Will let you know what it looks like when I am done :-) Keep the videos coming!

[@wilsoncheng3819]

I also understand now why you need to cut the slots BEFORE you turn down the mandrel to size.

[@cowjazz7906]

nice project ！ thanks a lot steve！

[@NIGHTWATCHERUK01]

Very nice and clear video, going to make one for my Hobbymat MD65,

[@SteveJordan]

Thanks. I use mine all the time now for screw tapping or using the die tool. It also saves from breaking particularly small taps.

[@craigcornell490]

Very nicely done Steve and great instruction for those of us the need the details. I am going to look over the spindle on my SouthBend lathe and see if there is nothing preventing me from building this for the SouthBend. Is there any reason you couldn't make the spindle handle system on your Myford Lathe the same way as you made it for the Chinese mini lathe? Also, I wanted you to know that after you mentioned that the steel in old weight lifting sets was a good source; I was able to find a long bar and three short bars with weights and I have been using that steel for projects. A lot of steel, Cheap! Thank you for saving me some money! I do like your bycycle crank handle system on the Myford. I am undecided which route to go at this point.

[@JimmiePorterAtStuartArts]

That is really nice. On my list now for my mini. thanks!

[@dwightcarlson7136]

Cool how you switch back and forth between metric and imperial.😉

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Dwight, Thanks. I grew up using imperial and then used metric. I don't even think about it, really. 😀

[@georgecurtis6463]

Going to make one just because. Most likely just after I need it !

[@goboyz8016]

I love it. That will be my next project. Hell my first 5 projects have been lathe enhancement tooling and haven't made a single thing yet. Well that's not true. I made Blondihacks magic tube as my first project. LOL

[@johnbazaar8440]

Very handy device. Thanks, John

[@SteveJordan]

+John Bazaar Thanks

[@MrTaz6552]

excellent. thank you. started making mine this evening.

[@anwarzadjali412]

im much learning from your job thanks

[@kk2ak14]

Brilliant!

[@Diogo-dt1uf]

The mini laaaaaiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiithe! The shoulder theeeeeeeeeeeeeeeere! Enough roooooooooooooooooooooom! The gear cutteeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeer! The Hannnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnndle! I liked the rhythm....

[@ExtantFrodo2]

Might I recommend putting the mandrel on a set of parallel knife edges to balance it? Between the grub screw on one side and the hole n the opposite - you might get a bit of wobble at higher speeds. Nice job BTW!

[@SteveJordan]

+ExtantFrodo2 Thanks, yes there maybe wobble at high speed. I have put a seed reduction gear set on my lathe so the lathe only has a top speed of about 1600 rpm. (I did this upgrade to increase torque on the low gear speeds). I've tried it on the top speed and it was ok. Anyone with a standard lathe speed set up though, may need to balance it for anything faster, if they leave the mandrel in. I actually very rarely use a lathe over 1200 RPM. Incidently my Myford lathe only has a top speed of 830 RPM but when they were in production they only had a top speed of around 630 RPM !

[@keisermick]

Brilliant - I have to make one. Thanks Steve

[@miguelcastaneda7236]

nice work and good project thanks for video and ideas

[@glennfelpel9785]

You are correct this is a brilliant accessory tool to have. One little question. Could the slitting saw operation be moved to near the end of the process, to avoid all the intermittent cuts, and then have less metal to saw out. Or would that deform the cone sides when they are sawed, being so thin? Thank you for sharing this idea, very cool.

[@SteveJordan]

+Glenn Felpel You have to do the saw cutting first because of the way its held in the tool holder, being one diameter allows you to slide the bar in the holder and clamp it in any position to get the maximum saw cut depth and stops any movement of the work piece, as the bar is held on the same diameter that the saw cuts on. I do it this way to stop any springing movement of the front end of the work piece.

[@davidkennedy2555]

I had that same question, and kind of figured you had a reason to do that. It took me while, but I did understand before I came and looked at the comments. I knew others would have the same question, and I wanted to have figured it out before I looked at your answer. Another great video Steve!

[@thecorbies]

Well, actually guys (inc' Glenn Felpel ) I did the cone cutting first; but perhaps because I have a mill I was able to do the saw slitting afterwards. Same result thought. Because an abrupt cut like the slitting saw can leave a fatigue stress point, I previously drilled a 4mm dia hole for the saw cut to finish in. FWIW I set my taper to 5deg and once set for cutting the cone I then set up the cut the cone plug. (identical taper). Note comment above to Steve also.

[@michaelford3705]

Great project and have two questions- Why did you slit the mandrel before you cut the taper and why did you use brass for the expander?

[@BSS22193]

Thank you so much for making this video! I'm about to purchase me a mini lathe and i see that this is one of the first very necessary projects i need to do with it. Do you have to have that sawing blade to cut the slot in the end that goes into the spindle or can it be done other ways to?

[@BobAmarant]

HI, Great idea, just wondering what happens when you want to remove the shaft? Once bent, doesn't the shaft stay and cone stay spread out? Do you have to knock it out with another rod?

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Bob. You just slacken the nut, give the nut/stud a tap forward and it releases to pull out. Regards Steve

[@dwightcarlson7136]

I wonder why you didn't do the saw cuts after the taper boring?

[@pierrepressure7718]

This is very usefull, thanks Steve!!

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Pierre....Thanks for watching....Regards Steve

[@pierrepressure7718]

I am very new to the word of lathing and Im watching all your videos and it soooo helpfull to me as a new beginner. I'll keep watching here in South Africa

[@SteveJordan]

Thanks....I hope to do another video this week. I'm just getting all the bits together now. Regards Steve

[@thecorbies]

Excellent idea Steve, but I would say that wouldn't I; I just started making this exact same tool yesterday - before I'd even seen this. (now imagine the theme to The Twilight Zone 🎵🎶🎵🎵, 🎵🎶🎵🎵). In addition to the operations you mentioned for this tool, I also have in mind to make some rudimentary indexing discs for simple quick hole drilling or marking out etc. Regards Mark in the UK p.s. subscribed

[@guye7763]

Darn clever. Well done!

[@SgtCude59]

this looks to be a good idea ..

[@franktrapani4804]

Great video Steve I can see left and right adjusting screws but how do you set the centre if it's low

[@campbellmorrison8540]

I like this and Im going to see if I can do the same for my Emco V10. Why did you cut the slots before the 10mm hole and tapering the end?

[@johncoops6897]

Seemed a huge waste of time plus extra noise and vibration. He could have turned the tapers then made the cuts with a hacksaw.

[@keirokeiro1976]

Ingenious!!!

[@ShuffleSk8Ter]

Very Nice Job Steve

[@SteveJordan]

+Lawrence Harasim Thanks

[@TheAndoid]

Brilliant 🙂

[@mrlavazza]

Hi Steve, the Christmas days ago, I made my spindle handle for my Wabeco D6000 Lathe. (I found no email adress of you, I`d like to send you some picures. Thank you so much for all your inspriation, perfect video explanation and for your chanel.

[@SteveJordan]

Hi you can send photos to [e-mail] I don't leave email on for long as I can't get around to answering all emails. Regards Steve.

[@dwightcarlson7136]

Is that 'clamp' which is attached to the QCTP made by you or purchased? I. E. the one which you held the work piece when you did the splitting?

[@hanspijpers2100]

Would it not been easier to do the sawing as last ? (less chatter and less material to saw through ?) Thanks for all these video's Kind regards Hans

[@johncoops6897]

Yes, and make the cuts though the thinner walls using a hacksaw.

[@georgeowen2083]

Great idea

[@ThanasisThomas]

Hey steve i want to make an expanding mandrel to accept pulleys to convert my lathe to belt drive .How do i drill a long mild steel bar all the way??Or i am limited to the length of the drill??Please help me!

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Thanasis To do mine I used a long series drill and drilled from both ends to meet in the middle. Are you converting the Chinese Mini Lathe?

[@johncoops6897]

To make a very long hole, simply use hollow tube. This is called pipe in some countries.

[@anwarzadjali412]

great job thanks five stars for you ***** thanks

[@MegaChekov]

Thats real nice Thanks again

[@bill3641]

Has anyone tried this on a 13 x 40 lathe ? The slowest speed on the one that I have is 70 rpm , and that's just too fast sometimes .

[@pjhalchemy]

Thank You Steve. Thorough and good detailed ops and assembly. Curious about your work holder for the QTCP at 17:22. Did you make that from a small vice and a piece of SQ bar? Been wanting something like that and had some thoughts on a design that would hold almost any shape stock up to ~1"...but yours is pretty simple and seems pretty rigid although your shaft stock seem at the limit of capacity. Thanks again for sharing your build! ~PJ

[@SteveJordan]

Hi PJ, Sorry I didn't reply sooner. That vice is the Unimat or Emco vice bolted onto a piece of 1/2" square bar. Regards Steve

[@peteblairakathemadscientist]

Steve why do you not cut the slots after you do the machine on the shaft?

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Peter. Its to stop the metal from springing as it may do if thinned by machining.

[@peteblairakathemadscientist]

@@SteveJordan thanks so much for the quick response. With this old video I wondered if you even followed new comments. I have today mostly made the insert section of the handle all but cutting the notches and taper etc. I never would have attempted anything like this without your video(s) most excellent! It's almost as if I have my own tutor right in my living room. I'm 74 and have only had the Myford for about 2 years, I mostly turn wood but your videos make me want to make jigs etc even though I may never use them. I still have to make the Die Holder and the cross slide drill. It is really helpful to see you updating your videos. By the way I'm using the video of the Chinese Lathe handle because I can't seem to find the construction video for the ML7. Cheers!!!

[@BellyUpFishGarage]

Any reason why not to cut the slots after you've turned the internal taper?

[@SteveJordan]

Hi No you can do it that way. In fact on one I made recently and did the internal taper first and it worked perfectly. Regards Steve

[@BellyUpFishGarage]

Steve Jordan excellent. I love your videos. Good stuff for a hobby machinist such as myself. Really want to knock out one of these spindle handles.

[@Pushyhog]

l made the one with belt pulley.

[@SteveJordan]

Excellent job!! Regards Steve

[@joewest1972]

Steve, why didn't you saw cut after you drilled and tapered instead of before

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Joe...You can do it either way

[@lilleypadfl]

Out of curiosity, how long was the stock you started with to make the quick release mandrel? Thank you for your excellent videos.

[@ShuffleSk8Ter]

I desperately need to make a crank for my mini

[@YOURFISHINGCHANNEL]

great idea.

[@clivegrant9965]

HI STEVE IS THERE ANY REASON THAT THIS COULD NOT BE MADE OF ALUMINUM INSTEAD OF STEEL .

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Clive, I did make one at first for My Myford lathe out of aluminium and it worked the same. We used to use expanding mandrels made of aluminium to hold all types of steel work in the factory, It was standard practice. Regards Steve

[@clivegrant9965]

THANKS STEVE.

[@LeeRobertsMe]

Another great tip/tool thanks for sharing :) .Me

[@SteveJordan]

+Lee Roberts Thanks.

[@clivegrant9965]

HI STEVE.I HAVE NOTICED THAT YOU HAVE A PLEXIGLASS COVER OVER THE BED WAYS OF YOUR MINI LATHE.THE QUESTION IS ARE YOU USING THE HOLES THAT THE TRAVELING STEADY USES OR ARE THEY HOLES THAT YOU HAVE ADDED.THE REASON I HAVE ASKED THIS IS BECAUSE I AM GOING TO DO THE SAME, REGARDS

[@SteveJordan]

+Clive Grant Hi Clive. Yes I have used the threaded holes that were meant for the travelling steady. I used polycarbonate I bought on Ebay. I also made a cover out of it to go over the tachometer. I have just repainted my lathe so If I remember I will show those covers in another video soon. Regards Steve

[@mick1gallagher]

The KGB's are coming to get you the want the plans for that super sonic jet you designed

[@mick1gallagher]

Not very smart having a brass handle rotating on a threaded rod

[@SteveJordan]

Well I've been using one for about 6 years now with no problems...so what's the problem?

[@keithammleter3824]

Flaming dangerous! One day you are going to forget to put the lathe in neutral and be distracted by a visitor or phone or whatever. And when you start the lathe, the handle might fly off and blind or kill you or another person. That's why all modern lathes have a flap that closes down over the chuck, which can happen only if the chuck key is not in place. A microswitch on the flap ensures the motor cannot run with the chuck key left in place. This spindle handle needs a similar microswitch to ensure the motor cannot run with the handle in place.

[@johncoops6897]

Somebody like you needs to take up a safer hobby like gardening. But no power tools, and nothing sharp like pruners or saws. Safety first 😂

[@johngabris9690]

Video is good it is the voice and intonation that is terrible

[@SteveJordan]

Hi Madam....thanks for watching and for your good feedback.