The Factory Diesel JEEP Engine / 425OHV / Pros / Cons / Mods

This video was meant to go up yesterday but there were some technical difficulties with KZbin.
My 1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ was one of the Factory 2.5vm Turbo Diesels that was exported to the UK in RHD. In this video i do a brief overview of the engine, mainly the top end, looking at its pros and cons and also some of the slight changes I have made to my engine to gain more power and reliability.
The engine came in a range of different vehicles and had a relatively poor reputation due to a few issues with its original cylinder heads. Sadly bad reputations are hard to shift but over all I think the engine has some strong positives and it has served me very well over many long and short trips around Europe in a range of extreme temperatures.
In this video I go over a lot of details and its probably one for the enthusiasts. I am preparing for some drastic modifications to the engine bay which may involve manifold fabrication and custom intercooler piping. Stay tuned for more episodes and thanks again for watching.
425 OHV Engine Manual - pdfcoffee.com/jeep25tdmotorvm...
VB180086 - www.invasionautoproducts.com/j...
VA180069 - www.invasionautoproducts.com/j...
www.americantechnology.co.uk/
EGR Delete - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2231438389...
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Useful Links
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Road, Trail and Terrain Laws - www.svmc.se/smc/SMCs-arbete--...
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Road Map - nvdb2012.trafikverket.se/SeTr...
Jeep Spec:
1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ 2.5TD RHD.
35x12.50r15 BFG KM3's with 15x8 3.75" backspacing (-19 offset).
Lift Front - RC 4.5" Coils and N2 Shocks (3" Coil Spacer).
Front Shock Bar Pin Eliminator.
Dana 30 High Pinion with Artec Industries Lower Control Arm Mounts with modified upper mount and modified Track Bar mount.
Front RC Control Arm Drop Bracket.
Ruff Stuff Short Arm Single Himes.
RC Extended Sway Bar Links.
Dana 30 Rock Crusher Diff Cover.
Ruff Stuff One Ton OTK Steering.
6" Lift Drop Pitman Arm.
Ruff Stuff Front and Center Frame Stiffeners.
Rear DIY Frame Stiffener and Rear Frame Tie in Kit.
6" x 2" Box Rocker replacement with Tube Slider.
Modified Factory Bumper with Side Sliders.
Rear Tow Hitch Tire Carrier that bolts into Rear Frame Tie in Kit.
Modified upper Shock Crossmember for Rear Shocks
Rear Axle Chrysler 8.25 29 Spline with modified High Clearance Shock Mounts.
Rear Shocks 6.5" Trailmasters.
Rear Leaf Springs 5.5" Rubicon Express
Rear RC Shackle Relocation Bracket.
Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines front and back.
Warrior 9500lb Winch.
Front Bumper - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jeep-Chero...

[@jphelan7284]

Hi Mike, have you seen this Ford VM425 training video? kzbin.info/www/bejne/kJ2pmHSAa8l5jtE

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Wow what a find. That really helps a lot with taking apat the engine and reassembly. Worth downloading that for the future! Thanks for the link

[@adamfletcher4262]

That channel is brilliant so many good videos on there

[@simeonivanov2311]

Hey,mate,the no:1 injector is really expensive and rare. Buuuut there's a simple and easy fix 😀.The "smart" injector on the 2.5 tds bmw (before m57) have exactly the same solenoid sensor (coil with the same resistance),and it's basically the same injector (the same operating pressure).The problem is the nozzle have a different spray pattern.The solution-just disassemble the old vm one and replace the top part from the tds one . I've done that 3 Year ago and still going strong.The best part? The TDS injectors are as cheap as hell and really available haha

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

I didn't know that! Very good to know, thank you. Cuts down the cost of a number one if ever one is needed. I will have a search for parts haha. Thanks for watching

[@alexbrous9819]

Can you please tell me the serial number of the injectors of bmw please ??

[@trapperpaulsen8731]

Part number please 🙏

[@davidchase7166]

Sorry again for snapping that torx bit in the stud Mike. On the plus side you did get to borrow my Defender for an hour or two, don't worry I won't tell your Jeep friends :)

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Hahah Dave!! Ah mate don't worry. I would still be using my old heads if you hadn't. How are you mate? Do you guys still live near Lower Woods?

[@davidchase7166]

@@WorkshoptoWilderness Yeah we're good thanks. We moved a couple of years ago and bought a cottage near Castle Combe. I'm still around the common a lot though as I work on a few of the farms in that area. We're hoping to do a trip over to Scandinavia with our overland rig (T25 Syncro) so we might have to swing by. Hope Meg and Max are keeping well? If you're ever back this way it would be great to meet up, maybe at Lower woods?

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

@@davidchase7166 Ah nice, Castle Combe is a nice place. Ah I miss that area sometimes, I will probably be back at Christmas with the family if I can make it. T25 Syncro, now your talking! If you do come up this way you are welcome to stop with us and take a brake, Max and Meg are good, his teeth are just killing him though, poor chap. Only ten more to go.

[@eugeneschultz9827]

Probably one of the best designed Diesel engines out there except for the heads. It's a smooth running diesel with no balance shafts and pushes out chucks of power and a beautiful designed crankshaft and bearing design. Massive flywheel and last crank bearing

[@benspreen]

As an owner of a Range Rover Classic with this engine your video has been such a great resource in understanding this motor further as I've done more research into it. Thanks for the detailed content!

[@marcomarucci82]

hey Mike, you did a great job with this video! Complete, detailed, accurated. Marco - from Italy - diesel engine development engineer ...and XJ owner :)

[@OMGWTFBBQSHEEP]

Thank you for this vid. Very informative! I bought my first XJ a month ago here in Norway, and I've spent the last couple of weeks replacing all bushings and ball joints. And the motor is very sluggish so thats what I'll tackle next. Great little project:)

[@knutnordgaard8846]

Interesting to see your videos. I had a 97 XJ with the 2.5 TD and I liked it a lot. Now I have a 2000 WJ with the 3.1 TD, and I like it even better. Still running with original sylinder heads and I have blocked the egr. I like these diesels so much 😍 Regards from Norway 🇳🇴

[@7igerNinja]

I've been waiting for a vid like this about the VM!

[@jayfromtexas6718]

Great to have found you again. The Jeep build has been incredible. From mild mannered to an absolute beast. Hope all’s well with you and your family.

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Thanks for tuning in again! All is well this end with family and life. Haha yeah the old jeep gradually became a bit of a tank. Gets me around though. Thanks again and hope all is well with you!

[@jonathanelser590]

I have always wondered what these engines were like. Thanks for the video!

[@Smvbuuren95]

Great video Mike! I like to see you build and change things on this engine!

[@GrizzlyPath]

41:00 listening to the engine- one thing that I think helped me is driving manual/standard mostly growing up, you get a lot more used to listening and feeling your engine/trans and that has helped when I got into more 4x4 stuff. Great video, even though AFAIK we don’t have that motor in the USA, still fun to watch!

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

I guess it use to be that way and things have moved on to a more behind the scenes style of machine. Thanks for watching mate and looking forward to the next video!

[@Winningpk3]

I'm seriously considering buying a spare engine after watching this. I can only assume they will be harder to find and more expensive as time goes on. Honestly thank you so much, you are a diesel jeep therapist! Always feel reassured after watching your videos!

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Its certainly worth doing if you want to keep it running. Its just much cheaper in the long run. Even and engine stand is pretty cheap for storage and working on it. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.

[@marcoslmartins]

Great video! Thank you a lot! Mine had a problem with the first injector and was fixed by remaping the ECU. Also the remap did bring some more life into the engine.. and its running great now! Cheers from Portugal 😉

[@MickeyMishra]

This was a great video to watch! Good info on the heads and Simeon Ivanov made this a done deal!

[@killkrazy9913]

Wish they had this option in the states. Awesome work on your XJ.

[@Francescoguitar]

Hi Mike I'm gonna rebuild my '96 zj cylinder head, with 4 amc heads. Same engine, small difference, but I agree this engine. Cool video!

[@swagmanoutfitters1604]

I've never owned a Jeep, but I still found this interesting! Cheers

[@martinblum9075]

Just come across this. Great insight thank you. I have a 1991 Range Rover with the 2.5 and very happy with it. I do about 12000 km/year with an oil change every 6000 km minimum. The VM specialist is located in Chesterfield by the way :-)

[@051biohaz]

Thanks for the great video, it is interesting to follow your thought process on making everything you own better...just like your old bushcraft kit and the continuous improvement of it..:)

[@milosmijatovic6994]

Nice video bro and thank you for your effort! That was really good and honest review. Greetings from Bosnia from another 2.5td XJ owner. :)

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Appreciate you watching and thanks for the comment

[@andysaunders3708]

Heads that can't handle heat. Excellent! Nice video, very instructive. Thank you.

[@MrPMgarage]

awesome. expertise and general vibe from you is top notch. subscribed

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Thanks for watching and for subscribing!

[@dantheman7719]

Awesome video...... keep up the good work bud...👍

[@joaoboia7837]

Hi great content. Not many people talking about vm engines particularly the Jeep ‘s diesels. There are some ajusa videos showing how to assemble the engine on KZbin, and with the engine manual I rebuilt last year my 2.5 tdi vm engine in my Jeep Grand Cherokee zg 1996. I resurfaced the 4 heads, one hi replaced is amc the others vm originals with 2 studs rockers. Had to fill the vm heads in the water passages since there was some small corrosion. Changed gaskets , piston rings and is working fine with mechanical fuel pump with old throttle body. Last month I changed engine rear seals since was leaking and now need to address death wobble and steering box leaking. I think is great engine if well maintained. This one was 195.000 km with open engine when i bought it last year for less than 1000 euros. Also have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.1 tdi, it broke one of the heads last week on the hi-way , and is exhausting via water cooling . It is 200.000 km so I think these engine heads suffer wear after long mileages and in takes and exhaust are completely full of carbon and oil gunk such as I found on my zg. I will rebuild the 5 cylinder 3,1tdi also... Just wanted to share my personal experience since hi enjoy watching your videos and was positive surprised with this one since most of your topics are around the jeep rebuild. Thanks for sharing your videos.

[@86beeman]

Geeze man! I went looking for a particular vid on your old channel for review and found this new one. Well done! Engine mods etc are way above what I'd want to do - just don't have the patience or passion for it but I'm freakin impressed with what you're doing. When you get your vehicle done are you going to do more videos of trips, tips and adventures? Heading out for a trip into "no cell phone land" in a few days. Cheers from northern Ontario.

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

I will be back out again this winter. Many of these jobs require buying lots of parts and I cant just let the jeep sit there all winter waiting. I will do them gradually and use the Jeep as I go. Enjoy your trip and thanks for watching!

[@V8AmericanMuscleCar]

I have two XJs with 2.5 TD engine and I love it! Zero problems! I make sure it doesn't overheat too much and with normal maintenance the engine is very appreciative. Also, runs very good on any type of oils. I have driven my on vegetable and waste motor oil. ❤

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Its nice to run it one Veg Oil. Ive only used a 60/40 mix when I lived in the UK but here in Sweden as of yet I haven't tried it. Have you made any changes to run the oil? I know some use duel tanks as a system flush with diesel or use a heat exchanger to heat the fuel pre filter.

[@V8AmericanMuscleCar]

@@WorkshoptoWilderness no changes at all. I drove it on 100% veg oil and while it was 10 Celsius, starts and drives flawlessly. It even starts at 5, 6 Celsius. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rGGVaaeqqtZoZrM

[@kaljuk.5456]

Thumbs up from Estonia , hea video !

[@corheeremans2820]

Hey Mike. thats the engine i have in my "95 Cherokee! strong engine! already 564.785.00klm

[@bipinmandepanda2708]

Hey Cor Heeremans, I've have 97 which has done 230k kms in New Zealand, I've always heard that these engines aren't good, but honestly I'm happy with mine Good to hear yours is at 564k kms, any engine work ? Or is it stock? Thanks

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Hey Cor, that's a lot of miles, or kms. Nice that you still have it going 👍

[@corheeremans2820]

@@bipinmandepanda2708 hi Mate. yes i did some works on her. changed hydrohydrolic rods and rods to. even refixed the turbo. changed the cilinder heads for stroger ones even the cilinder gasskett.

[@shift1164]

Well explained ✅

[@R1CH130]

I have this same engine in my 1998 Frontera. I’m interested to have a closer look at mine, to see which mine is!

[@amedeoperri3571]

Great video!

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Thanks for watching

[@GrizzlyPath]

41:00 listening to the engine- one thing that I think might help people is if you’ve driven manual before, you get a lot more used to listening and feeling your engine/trans. My current 4x4 is automatic, but all my vehicles for the last 15 years have been manual.

[@pjccarnneiro]

Hi Mike! Very nice video indeed! Thank you for sharing. I recently bought a 1997 ZG with 210k KM and I preparing to do the oil change. What’s the additive you put in you engine and what’s the oil that you recommend? Love your videos! Greeting from Portugal 🇵🇹

[@t.g.5832]

GREAT VIDEO!!! Can you please tell us the name of the head gasket you have used (this multilayer gasket). Thanks so much.

[@shannon9642]

G'day from Australia Mike, I have a white 1998 Cherokee XJ with the same diesel engine. Unfortunately the previous owner had pulled all the heads and that's the state it was in when I bought it with a lot of parts sitting in the boot. They told me they had the overheating issue and that the rear of head gasket had blown at cylinder no.4. I examined one of the heads (i assume the rear one) and I could actually see a crack on the mating surface in the middle of the long side. I decided to order a set of AMC heads so I plan to put those on when they arrive from Germany. A couple of days ago I noticed some small dents in the top of cylinder 3, possibly from a glow plug tip breaking off.. the dents don't look too significant (the deepest might be 1.5mm deep and 5mm diameter) and the bore/liner appears to be unscathed so I'm thinking I will leave it for now and go ahead with the install.. what do you think of that? It looks like it's been run for awhile like that anyway. Another query I have is would you recommend wrapping the exhaust manifold, it being a 'non-crossflow cylinder head' and considering the temperatures here in summer get to sometimes 35-40 C. Thanks Mate, Shannon.

[@Sladen91]

Hello there! I was surfing in some random videos and found you here. I also have a VM 2.5 in my garage attached to a Toyota Land Cruiser 73. There are really some differences between them. Acording to you, mine is the MK1 but with other turbo and the port of the air intake is faced front to the engine. I've already changed the heads and liners and other stuff. 200k Km on the odometer and running fine. Regards from Portugal.

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Ah nice, I had no idea they had those engines in Toyotas. Sounds like it's looked after and running good. It's nice engine when it's looked after. Do you plan on keeping it?

[@rogerfrancis65]

Also used in the Rover SD1 and in the Ranger Rover .

[@WieDrDerJonge]

Good engines if you warm it up properly. I have one in my Frontera and I like it. I changed to a manual pump and a GT2256V VNT turbo.

[@marcolourenco3352]

Nice video mate , well done ! Can you tell me which sort of modifications to did to the cooling system? And your XJ is one of the prettiest ones I ever seen :)

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Thanks for watching and for the comment. I did more renovation rather than mods. The first job was taking the cooling lines and everything apart to flush all the sediment out and I then replaced the radiator with a new one, original copper and brass design. Replaced the pipes with copper plumbing pipes and ran those past the fan from the matrix to aid in some slight heat reduction. I also raised the expansion tank about 1.5" so that the air pocket would be higher if coolant ever started to leak. The mods are nothing huge but they seem to have helped keep temps stable.

[@chrismcca]

Is there any way to mount it to the aw4 or other auto trans? I nearly bought a 2.5td but a 4.0 bargain landed in my lap. If auto TD was an option I would consider buying another.

[@lukaorak6914]

Very good and helpful video. Do you maybe know what are the compression test results for these 2.5 VM engines? Please reply. Thanks mate.

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

My original compression test was back in the UK over three years ago so it will be interesting to see what it is now. From memory it was around 30 Bar per cylinder. I will be pressure testing both engines again so that should be a good indicator to see if the snake oil is working. Thanks for watching,

[@TorcVoir]

You don't have a link for the injector rebuild kit do you? Mine's getting no return back to pump from number 2, need to strip it apart and see what's going on. Thanks!

[@haagenhenriksen2502]

It is a noisy old diesel but if you heat it right and cool it down after pulling something the alu- parts gets no cracks. Mine done 260 000 km on oil change only (ofc pluss belt) and it absolutly loves the Mobil delvac oil!

[@WARWICKSmith-ql4yv]

Hi Mike, I am really enjoying your videos; I have a 97 2.5L cherokee, I fitted aftermarket heads some years ago which worked well for a few years and then appeared to crack another head. You have inspired me to have a go at fixing the issue. PS what do you think of how long the oil light stays on at startup? I have always found it a little disturbing.

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Ah thats a shame about the head going again. I've not had any issues yet with the new ones but who knows. I have a manual oil guage fitted and it's tapped into the block. It gives a more accurate reading of pressure. I think 2 seconds. I normally just crank the engine without waiting for the glow plugs to get it started. There is always residual oil in the system so I don't think its a problem.

[@vwfanatix]

Hi, Mike. Last saturday i replace my whistling VA59B. Now i'm ride with refurbished VA59A but I'm not happy with it. With VA59B i feel boost start about 1500RPM. Now with VA59A i feel boost start about 1700RPM. In mid range RPMs i feel some small power increase. I think your intercooler will do more in your case. I would try some Vetter intercooler now and ECU software changes.

[@KaKamaKa1995]

I runned this engine whit edc15 from Vw 1.9 engine , in order to proper tune it !

[@togray619]

The 6 cylinder 4.0L "High Output" found in the states is a very good engine.

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

It is very good, lots of them in Europe also. Sadly its the fuel economy that's poor for European standards due to the cost of petrol so running one daily can be expensive. But regardless its a solid motor.

[@ReasontoLiveAdventures]

I’ve had my 01 Cherokee Sport since 01 and have loved it all these years. I did have to rebuild the motor at 200k-due to a piston that snapped. My old Isuzu Trooper used to go through heads like they were free. Cheers from over here in SW Virginia.🤙

[@samahmed3373]

True the 6 cylinder 4.L is very good and powerful I do have 1994 xj Cherokee..4L here in UK.. very expensive to run for a ⛽⛽

[@danw1030]

Wish we had that diesel option here in the states. Like my xj but would like better mpg.

[@ReasontoLiveAdventures]

I completely agree with you.

[@vwfanatix]

Hi. It's a great video, good description of this engine. Half od issues with this engine is angry drivers. I also have an XJ with 2.5 VM it's last year od production 2001. Thos last year have newest engine management with EDC15 ECU and it has a TMAP on top of intake instead of MAF behind air filter. I bought it with blown heads and rebuild engine in 2017. I also use a AMC heads without aby issues. I also have exhaust manifolds with T2 flange in same spot as IHI VA59B. They came probably from from early production of this engine. Thank you for this video. B.R. Jakub from Czech Republic

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Ah nice, you have a similar setup to where I'm going then. Glad it's all running well, i think how you drive it makes all the difference. The newer heads certainly seem to be fine. Appreciate you watching and thanks for the comment

[@vwfanatix]

@@WorkshoptoWilderness What type of turbocharger are u riding now? IMHO VM mk.I (A/R 12) have little more boost, but VM mk.II (A/R about 10) have better pro faster spool. And what type of turbocharger Are u planning use? Some peoples in our country use a Garrett GT2052V it's VNT type from Audi A6 2,5TDi V6 and to they rebuid it on pressure regulator, but i think better choice is GT2052S with internal wastegate used in Perkins industrial engines and Land Rover TD5 engines.

[@vwfanatix]

@@WorkshoptoWilderness Hi, I've some tip about intake manifolds. Try to look for Jeep ZJ with 2,5TD VM. Looks good for. your future turbo upgrade. B.R. Jakub

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

I have one of those, with the intake at the front. Exactly why I bought it. I will have to look up what turbo I'm using. I cant remember the number off by heart. It produces about 26psi but obviously that's top end so you don't see that daily

[@vwfanatix]

@@WorkshoptoWilderness today my partsdealer deliver me a brand new gt2056s from IVECO 2.8 TD. Looks like a good turbocharger for small upgrade.

[@corheeremans2820]

Hello Mike. About that Oil filter bracket. i had after 455000.km a leak between that part and the engine body. took it of. and changed the O-ring. than put it back..but!! did tha possition down forward to the cooler fan. so..the oil filter (long model) how has more oil inside get also a bit cooling from the fan.. my engine is the model 1995.Mai. and I changed the cilinder heads at 299.000km for those how are stronger! stay in contact. 😉 Cor

[@GoncaloLuis89]

Best content on the 425 ohv! Thank you for sharing. What's your opinion on overdriving the water pump to improve cooling? Thanks.

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Thanks for watching! I'm not sure about the pump overdrive. Perhaps slightly faster could help because its a street car so the speeds wont be too fast ever. I know on race cars at high rpm they have the pumps under driven.

[@GoncaloLuis89]

@@WorkshoptoWilderness Yes, 4x4's don't need to get to high RPM's often so it's not as likely to induce cavitation in the collant pump. My reasoning is if there is a big difference in temps from the first to the fourth cylinder, then the coolant is traveling slow, taking a lot of heat from the first cylinders and when it gets to the last cylinders it's already very hot. Running the coolant faster would make the coolant not soak so much heat in the first cylinders(because it doesn't stay there as long) thus arriving at the last cylinders at a lower temp.

[@pieterhoffman1514]

That inlet is on the Grand 1998 as well

[@Plosionz]

Great Video. I have exactly that Mk.1 engine. Where can I find the amc cylinder heads?

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

They sell them on Autodoc, lots of places sell them sometimes in sets of four.

[@shaunmccaw2911]

Very interesting mate even though I know nothing about what you were talking about 😂👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Thanks for watching.

[@mattsstuff1268]

Nice build and good video. I've always wondered why outside the US Jeep seems to have a much worse reputation for reliability than they do in the US. Considering we never had these Italian diesels, it's starting to make sense. I've had multiple Jeep gas engine designs now, and all have been very reliable. Ironically, Jeep started using VM diesels again a few years ago in the US, and again ran into reliability issues, resulting in diesel options being cancelled.

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Most of the reliability issues with Jeeps in Europe aren't engine related. The 4.0 is far more common than the diesel, and it's still considered unreliable. This is because of Toyota being far more prevalent in Europe. Land rover is also considered very unreliable. Nissan is popular and considered pretty good. Mercedes is considered the best, but the price is a different class than the others. Dodge is again considered unreliable. Toyota has set a bar for reliability, and there are all diesels, much like all suvs here. Diesels will most likely be less reliability in the USA due to fuel. They are more expensive to maintain and service given all the mechanical parts are larger due to a much higher compression ratio. Modern diesels are very susceptible to poor fuel quality, given the common rail design and sensitivity of the injectors. My gas jeeps have all been less reliable than my diesel due to the electronics and sensors. Mechanically, they are cheaper to maintain, though, as parts cost less. The diesel is far superior in my experience, though, as it's a machine with no sensors or electrical controls apart from a starter motor and 12v fuel stop solenoid. Its also not fuel sensitive. Modern VM's are very different. These are just my experiences as a European. I'm sure it's better to have a 4.0 in the USA and not a unicorn.

[@carloscartaya9932]

Great video! I really like the XJ, torque...so, can it run with it’s cool system and the original engine? Thanks again, peace

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Yeah It can run well with its original cooling system although some minor improvements will help greatly. I've found things like turbo, intake, intercooler upgrades more beneficial to dropping EGTs. Thanks for watching!

[@pieterhoffman1514]

I am reinstalling my motor but it was out for 5 years and I have a few connect problems. There's no way you could send picture layout of the fuel pump connections. In south Africa these engine's are very scares.

[@GoncaloLuis89]

Hey Mike, I'm thinking about installing the later heads on my range rover, can you just clarify if the rocker covers are interchangeable from the mk1 to the mk2 engines you have? I can´t figure if the difference in 1 stud vs 2 studs offsets the rocker cover bolts, and I would like to keep the original covers on my engine. Thank you.

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Hey, I have both engines and I can confirm that the rocker covers are not compatible. Certainly not on the two I have anyway. The single stud cover is a different casting to the two stud with the holes in different places. It shouldn't be too difficult to get hold of a two stud cover though, I might even have a spare but I will have to take a look

[@tbastient]

Awesome video !! It is good to see someone defending this engine, that is actually cool :) My english is good enough to understand most of what you said, but I don't catch small details.. At 20:00, what do you explain about putting a screw on the vaccum of the EGR please ? Thanks again for all your great videos !!

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

There is a small hose that connects to the emissions control unit on the ECU. You just pull off the hose from the egr valve and push a small screw in it to block it. Other than that just take off the egr all together and fit a metal plate to it and it will stop working. Thank you for watching and for the comment

[@tbastient]

@@WorkshoptoWilderness I already tried to put a plate to close it, but after that the turbo was whistling badly.. So I removed it, and it came back to normal. But my EGR is kind of closed because the membrane of the vacuum on the valve is cracked, so I guess it doesn't operate. But after watching your video, I wonder if the problem of my engin going to limp mode sometime doesn't come from that.. So I will try to put a screw as you suggest. Thanks again !!!

[@securedigital1]

@@WorkshoptoWilderness "other than that" means that we have to do both mods (plate and hose) or just one of em at our choice? thank you !

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

@@securedigital1 You need to do both. Insert a blanking plate between the intake manifold and EGR Valve. Pull the actuator hose off the EGR and trace the line back to the ECU, remove it leaving maybe an inch off rubber hose still connected to the ECU and insert a screw into it to block it.

[@chrispascoewhite]

Great video, you clearly have a lot of knowledge!! We have just invested in another xj after about 18 years, it’s a 97 2.5 td. Basically the turbo cuts out at 2000rpm, I’ve changed the inlet and outlet pipes but has no change, what is the problem?? And how can I fix it???? Please help, I want this engine to be great again, it’s don 170k Thanks in advance Chris Pascoe-white ( Devon)

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Hey Chris, thanks for watching. The problem you have is that the Jeep is in Limp Home Mode. Its a quite common and could be a few things. Its most likely a number one fuel injector (the one at the front with a wire coming out of it). You can test it by unplugging it and connecting a multimeter to it to measure the resistance. It should be between 80 and 100 ohm. Alternatively it could be the MAF sensor which is located just after the air filter. If this is faulty it will trigger limp home mode and basically the ECU is telling the electronic fuel pump to cut fuel after 2000rpm which is causing the turbo to spool down due to a lack of combustion gas. Turbos need fuel which creates hot fast moving combustion gas in the exhaust manifold to spool up and the ECU is cutting the fuel to stop you pushing the engine too far.

[@mikebaccala5675]

Hay Mike I have a 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 3.0 turbo diesel and I want to get more power out of it where should I start???

[@strofimios]

Even thought i don't have a diesel xj(mine is a 2.5 gas/lpg)i really liked it.That was a great tutorial!And something completely irrelevant,i noticed,on the snow scenes,that you are using the chains to the front wheels.Just a thought,chain the back ones and let the front tyres compact the snow so the chains will have someting to dig-grab.

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Thanks for watching. I dont have much experience with the 2.5 gas, they are super rare in the UK. I use chains on the back normally, just not in late spring when the help smash top ice and churn up the track. Thanks for watching

[@robinbobin3129]

Thank you for a very knowledgeable video,IV ,just acquired a 1998cherokee2.5td .it has not moved for over 7 years !,it was literally dumped outside a house .for 7 years.! It been a home for many mice " who managed to chew through the wiring of an aftermarket alarm system ! Which is why I think it wouldn't turn over.! Iv now managed to remove all the alarm and miles of wiring.and it now turns over and wants to start .but is stopped, because there was no fuel (and old)plus I thought it better to change the oil first .do you have any advise for me please

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

If its not starting then start with air and fuel. Check the air box and make sure mice haven't turned the filter into a nest. Clear the air intake out and just make sure there are no obstructions. If the air filter is intact then you know the rest of the intake system should be okay. With fuel you need to get rid of the old fuel. 7 years is a long time for diesel to be sitting in the pump. Personally I would pull the fuel tank down, clean it out and also replace the fuel filter. Put fresh fuel in and try again. At least then you know you have fresh fuel going through and no surprises in the fuel tank. Its can be a lot of work so alternatively just replace the fuel filter and fill the tank with fresh diesel and try it again

[@Bodgemiester]

I had mine randomly bend a push rod once. Great engine though 👌

[@Brookspirit]

Would a waterless coolant be any good for that engine? They are supposed to work from -40°c to +180°c. It seems like it would be worthwhile in that engine and in those conditions.

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

I'm not sure to be honest. I didn't know there was such a thing. Do CAT use that stuff?

[@Shagggdude3]

You should change oil every 3k religiously in a diesel. As for coolant, the 4.0-6 is every 36 months with a marine grade flush. I worked at a Jeep dealership and that's what we did.

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

I think I do it twice a year. Probably do less than 5k a year.

[@DanHaa626]

Hi Mike, great video! Did you buy the Amc heads with valves, springs etc. or just reuse the old stuff with new heads?

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

When I bought mine, they had valves, but that was about 8 years ago. I can't find them with valves now, so you would need some lapping compound and original hardware.

[@DanHaa626]

Thanks for the reply! Luckily I found ones with all the hardware. I had one broken rockerarm stud and even after seeing your videos I managed to snap a counter thread bit in it...😅 Well, all good now

[@THeoDeN28943]

Great video, I am running a 97 XJ with the 2.5 TD VM. The heads was changed for the Spanish AMC ones and no issues since then. Even the car has visited Morocco twice and it did not suffer any temperature problems, but a rear axle failure. 😓 I do not think that any swap does worth to this car. Too old chasis, low braking power claims not to deal with more horsepower, and you can rebuild the engine for very little money by yourself. I was wondering if the XJ with 2.5 td VM would be a interesting rig to a RTW trip. XJ has pressence in Europe, all American countries, in South Africa and Australia. The only "gap" could be central Asia. It was also produced in Africa, China, Indonesia and Japan. Cheers

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Good to hear your engine is running smoothly after the head swap. There are some changes to the Jeep that strengthen the chassis and brakes. I've added frame stiffeners and box rockers which take the chassis thickness collectively up to about 8mm and tie the unifame together. You can also do a WJ front brake swap to a double piston caliper and swap the rear axle to something more reliable with disk brakes. Engine swaps are not an issue for this jeep, remember the ZJ comes with a 5.9l V8 and its got no issues. Some guys swap to a Cummins Bt4 or Mercades OM617 TD and you can tune those things up pretty high. The only issue is bigger tires + more power = Blown drive shafts. Thanks for watching,

[@obxjeepguy]

I can attest to the fact that Engine Restore really works. My 4.0 in my Cherokee has terrible blowby, and using this stuff reduces it dramatically.

[@guicarvalho372]

Does anyone know if it's possible to use the 3.1 automatic transmission on it?

[@north.by.northeast]

Mmm I bet that restorer tasted good, but it's for engines not coughing blokes! ;) A LONG time ago before I got my first car I used to drive my dad's Maxi 1750, a naturally aspirated OHC petrol (so appreciate different to OHV turbo diesel) and what a pig to drive, compared to the 80s cars I drove later. You had to do a mixture of caress and wrestle it, the torque was OK but it ran out of steam quite quickly, quite diesel-like, and was a big heavy car so I know what you mean about changing down on (or before!) hills, but I'm used to changing down early for hills from cycling. Have you looked into torque curves and remapping or is there almost nothing to gain from doing so with your engine? I guess the power band is narrow. Looking forward to a bit of an engine strip down vid or vids - I used to love watching the "A Car is Born" TV series, particularly the older ones. You're definitley due some corporate vid sponsers :)

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Haha, but it contains CSL! (not sure what that is, copper, lead??) I guess driving manuals you get use to changing up and down and listning the engine. I'm not sure on tuning, there are many on here talking about tuning and mapping the engine so I guess its possible. I have no idea how to do it or what I would need. I'm considering going the other way and installing the manual fuel pump with a wire and disconnecting the ECU, but then i don't really like electronics. Thanks again mate and appreciate you watching!

[@javiworks8365]

Hello!!! Could you tell me where the oil pressure sensor is located? the one that sends the signal to the clock of the picture. Thank you very much from Spain!

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Its on the left hand side or the engine just below the exhaust manifold. Basically on the back side of the water pump housing

[@user-rd7xr5bm7t]

Great vídeos ! Haver been helping me a lot bringing a 20 years 'garaged' XJ black on the road! But please send me the manual for that engine! I just can't find it and I NEED IT!

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Nice that you're giving it a new lease of life! I think the manual is in the description?

[@forreststrong797]

Diesel cherokees are super rare here in the states, people charge a lot of money for them. Most xj's here have the 4.0 inline 6 some have the gas 2.5 4 cylinder. I just decided to pull the trigger on a golen engines 4.6 stroker for my xj. I think it's a good combination of power and reliability but honestly the main reason for picking that engine specifically is they use high quality parts and a few things that I prefer. I've rebuilt a few 4.0's but I figured I'd treat myself and my jeep to this engine, I've had this specific xj for a long time then we've had a bunch of other xj's but this one is kinda special to me. I really enjoy watching your cherokee video's it's interesting to see the diesel engine. Here in the states most diesel vehicles cost a lot more money than gas or petrol as you guys call it. When I visited Europe back in 2008ish I was surprised to see so many diesel-powered cars because here in the states we mainly have gasoline. Usually there's only one maybe two diesel pumps at the fuel stations some stations don't even have diesel. I've seen a couple cherokees that have been swapped from the gas 4.0 inline 6 to a 5 cylinder Mercedes diesel I've heard that's a good simple swap.

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

I wish they had offered this engine in the US. I think it would have had more aftermarket support like parts and heads perhaps. I guess petrol is costly here in the UK due to tax so naturally diesels were in everything because that's what people were buying. This engine wasn't much loved for obvious reasons and I think we are spoiled over here with small diesel engines so why bother fixing it when you can buy a better one. The Merc om617 TD is a good swap, powerful and reliable and tunable. The Cummins Bt4 is also a good swap. That's really interesting to hear that not all fuel stations have diesel! I would never have thought that at all. The 4.6 Stroker sounds like a beast, I can imagine it packs a lot of punch in the XJ. Nice swap!

[@forreststrong797]

@@WorkshoptoWilderness I was running the aluminum edelbrock head on my 4.0 for a while and wasn't really happy with it, I've ran all the different iron heads and my favorite is the 7120 casting I've tried the new cast iron head as well and it's ok. I like this 4.6 engine because golen uses high quality parts and they run it on a dyno before sending it out. It's really hard to get good parts nowadays you have to be really careful especially with things like engine parts. It should be just as reliable as stock and it has 270hp and 300 foot pounds of torque. I asked him to add on a few parts for me as well that I like using, It will be interesting to feel the difference in power. He says I should be receiving the engine mid January so that gives me a bit of time to finish everything else up. This project has kinda snowballed into me just redoing everything. One thing I've been doing the last couple days is ordering parts to redo my lighting and wiring, I bought an SPOD which should clean up the wiring really nicely and make it simple to add accessories my favorite part is being able to have so many auxiliary switches in such a clean package to run all the accessories and not have everything cluttered with switches all over. You should look into a light controller and see if it's something your interested in, you can do a lot more than just run lights and there's lots of different versions from simple to high tech with a touch screen.

[@GoatOffroad]

Matt’s Off Road Recover just put one in his XJ. Can’t believe how powerful the Golen in engine is. I almost am looking forward to my 4.0 kicking the bucket so I can get one!

[@forreststrong797]

@@GoatOffroad I'm excited to get my jeep back together and test out the new golen engine. I've never really had a lot of interest in a stroker specifically but I really like the high quality standards from golen. I've been a mechanic at various shops and dealerships over the years and I've rebuilt lots of engines using local machine shops and rebuilders and it's just really difficult to get top quality machine work done. Golens engine is expensive but I believe it will be worth it from what I've seen.

[@t.g.5832]

Or any useful links on this VM???

[@paulwalker427]

is this a spare engine or have you pulled yours? either way very clean - great video

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Its a spare. I bought it along side a transmission and transfer case. Originally it was all just spares but I like the condition of this old engine and I want to rebuild it and get it running on the stand.

[@steveturner266]

Great video. Good to see someone defending the VM engine. I have one in my 2000 Cherokee and like a lot of others on the forums and Facebook pages have an issue with what’s likely to be a limp mode problem. Power stops flowing at 2k revs. Seems like a lot of folks have the same issue. Everyone jumps on the comments saying it’s number 1 injector when it’s not. I’ve had mine professionally refurbed and also gone through a long list of possible culprits. Any advice would be appreciated or even a video of what to check and how. I know the Facebook groups would be really interested in this!

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

From what I understand limp mode can occur for quite a number of reasons. The obvious being no1 injector, maf sensor, emissions control unit. Possibly crank position sensor but that might actually stop it starting all together. What have you checked so far? Thanks for watching, hopefully I can help

[@steveturner266]

I’ve swapped the maf sensor, blanked the egr, had the injectors refurbed and changed the fuel filter. It’s starts fine so kind of ruled out the cps. Emissions control unit though? Worth looking at! Thanks for the advice!

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

@@steveturner266 I've tried to find the part for you but its proving to be difficult. Some call it an EGR Valve Unit, Others an Emissions Control Unit, EGR actuator. Its basically that little black pump on the back of the ECU with a plug on it and it 100 percent puts the engine in limp mode probably through fuel restriction I guess.

[@steveturner266]

Definitely worth a try. Thanks for your help. Trying everything to keep it on the road!!

[@overlandfeels]

On mine I've had the same issue and tried everything. What eventually worked to get it out of limp mode: 1) find an older diagnostics software; 2) choose the 'wrong' Cherokee model, as in Cherokee KJ 2002-2005 with the 2.5 Diesel; 3) force delete all errors/faults from the ECU (even if it says 'no faults' just press the delete buttons :D ). All other ways have failed me, this one has consistently (more than 4 times now) proven to work :D

[@fmhipower]

Would you ever consider going with an OM606 swap? The power and reliability with a few mods is impressive. I have a 4.6 stroker on mine and it's nice, but I think the next engine in my XJ will be a 606 with a 603 injector pump in the 350hp range.

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

I would consider it but the adapter kit alone is over £1000 and the engine is probably a bit more. I looked at an OM617 TD and a Cummins BT4 but again its all money on something that I don't need right now. I will consider an engine swap one day, maybe when Max is older but it has to be an engine I just come across for a good deal, slowly rebuild and they store it until its time. Its costly is what I mean if you just go all in with intention. Thanks for watching.

[@dopeass791]

@@WorkshoptoWilderness you can run a Mercedes 722.6 trans and an adapter to a land rover lt230 transfer case

[@andri261273]

Hi,I must ask you,.Where can I buy new or good used push rods and roker arms.My old ones are in bad shape.I have now clearance between valve and roker arm more than one milimeter.Thank you for answers.

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8-x-Push-Rods-for-Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-2-5TD-1992-2001-OEM-MOPAR-EEP-XJ-014A-/321809497736?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 here are some pushrods. I wouldn't know where to pick up the rocker Arms. I think they would be pretty hard to find. Maybe look for an old cylinder head with them on?

[@wojtasmax]

Hi, I own a 1998 ZJ with 2.5TD and I think that my 4th head is cracked because there is always a drop of oil hanging at the bottom of the engine. I want to order the AMC heads but I dont really know how to identify my engine. They want to know how many holes I have alongside the heater plug, either 1 or 3 to advise me on the correct ones. Is there any way to tell what 2.5TD I have in my Jeep?

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Hey Louis, Oil behind head 4 is really normal and its probabaly just a worn valve cover gasket. Oil builds at the back of that head due to the angle of the engine. Signs of a cracked head on this engine are normally coolant being forced out of the expansion tank, coolant levels dropping with no sign of a leak, excessive white smoke with a sweet smell. If you take a photo of the top and side of your engine and send it to [e-mail] I can tell you what heads to buy and get you a link.

[@davetaylor4156]

Hi I have a cold start problem I've changed the glow plugs soon as I get it to start on easy start it will start no problem have you ever had the issue cheers

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Does it continue to run once it's running?

[@samr9736]

I've had two 4.0L Cherokees in Canada and love them. I'm moving to Europe this Summer and I'm looking to buy another Cherokee to do some overlanding through the Alps and Pyrenees and I'm trying to decide if I should get a 4.0L or the 2.5TD. I love the 4.0L because it's so reliable and has plenty of torque, but with the fuel prices in Europe I'm wondering if maybe the diesel is the better choice. The diesel Cherokees are a lot cheaper to buy as well. I won't have a workshop to work on the Jeep though so if the diesel needs much tinkering that would be a pain. Which would you recommend? Love the channel!

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

The Diesel will get you a lot more range as an overlanded. You can also expand the tank to 100l very easily and get around 1000 kilometres out of it if you don't make it to heavy. Low down torque is also nice for certain situations. The problem will be finding one that doesn't need work. The engines need to be maintained correctly to live a good life and most people will never do that. They can be great engines and you can tune them up and get 160hp and almost 400nm of torque out of them safely, but its finding one that doesn't need work. If you buy one its a project. Thanks for watching!

[@samr9736]

@@WorkshoptoWilderness Thanks man, I appreciate the reply!

[@leandrorafaelvicini4619]

Hello Mike ! I don’t know if you will read my message but I will try : First of all I’m glad I found your channel and this video…then I wanted to, as briefly as I can, tell you my story with my Jeep ZJ. Since we bought it liked to overheat here and there, till one day we found OIL IN WATER. So took it to the mechanic that sold it to me, he said was the oil heat exchanger…we change that, after 200km aprox again engine oil in the cooling system. So I decided to take it to another mechanic, this one took the heads, test them and apparently one was cracked…so changed one head + head gaskets…another 200km later again oil in the water… I don’t know what to spect…can you maybe tell me where to start ? Maybe a list of possible problems ? Thanks again, I will tremendously appreciate your answer 🙏🏼🙏🏼

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

The heat exchanger can go and cause this but its unlikely on this engine as they are well made from memory. With regards to the cracked head, normally they crack between the coolant channel and the exhaust valve which causes the expansion tank to overflow due to pressure. The oil that feeds into the top of the head is just for the lifters I think. I don't think there are any oil channels through the block up into the heads through the gasket so a head gasket failure would not cause your symptoms. The oil runs through a gallery on the left side of the engine and up a line at the back that feeds into the top of the heads and then it runs back down into the sump past the pushrods and hydraulic tappets I think. I could be wrong so hopefully someone else could comment. I would have to cut a head in half to be totally sure that the oil feed isnt close to a coolant channel. Have you checked the exchanger again? I honestly couldn't think of anywhere else that oil and coolant could mix on this old diesel.

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

I just thought, if your cylinder liners are damaged from cavitation or perhaps in some other way maybe oil and coolant can mix. I think that would be rare though and you would have other symptoms like an over pressurised coolant system.

[@leandrorafaelvicini4619]

@@WorkshoptoWilderness wow thanks Mike for your answer, sincerely never thought you will do it with all the work you probably have keep updated your channel ! I truly appreciate your answer mate ! It’s had been a bit of a nightmare with this Jeep and since it broke last time no one wanted to touch it and we just had it parked… So now i guess It’s time for me to forget about bad old times and have a look… Any advice on the heat exchanger ?? Should I by pass it ?? Thanks again mate, I’m completely impress about this, you having 25k followers and answering to me right away 🙏🏼🙏🏼

[@leandrorafaelvicini4619]

@@WorkshoptoWilderness and to check cylinder liners I will need to take apart all the engine, right ?

[@andysaunders3708]

4.7 V8 engine has head problems, too, though mainly dropped valve seats. Bastard Jeeps. I have one, and I worry constantly about a seat dropping out. Apparently it's mainly the r/h head, (looking from the driver's seat), as the V8 is 5/8" offset to the right, and covered with all sorts of heat-retaining crap. Apparently. I haven't measured it.

[@lucasasad6817]

Hi, do you have the link to find the turbo that you mentioned? Thanks

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Hey, I don't unfortunately. They have become difficult to find but the part number is in the description so your best bet is to search with that. I use a GT2052 turbo now with is much easier to find.

[@hopingforthebest1.9]

I thought that pump from the mk2 looked familiar, I have that exact same type of pump on my TDI!

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

It seems like a good pump. Much more responsive than the old electronic unit. Thanks for watching.

[@maxitout5333]

Which parts did u use to get the problems out of the way. Brand of the aftermarket heads and so on. Mine needs a rebuild...

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

I used AMC. They seem pretty solid and make loads of heads for all sorts of engines. They seem to deal with heat much better than the originals.

[@maxitout5333]

@@WorkshoptoWilderness Thanks for the Quick answer. By the way you have a very clean build and keep on doing what you do. Your videos are also overkill, can't imagine the work that you but in everything.

[@jphelan7284]

Hi Mike, can you give any guidance as to where I could pick-up a Scorpio intake manifold and cooling gallery? Thanks.

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Find the inlet manifold isn't easy. You also get the same manifold from the 2.5vm ZJ. Your best bet is to search online in Google images- images.app.goo.gl/z4hQRpum6MJiLwJR6 here is one in the EU. The water gallery I have no idea. Do you have a Ford Scorpio?

[@jphelan7284]

@@WorkshoptoWilderness no Scorpio, I am rebuilding an XJ 2.5TD. Looking to replicate the turbo swap and arrangement you have done on your VM425.

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

You won't need the coolant gallery as they are exactly the same. The intake manifold you will need. If you want some links just let me know.

[@jphelan7284]

@@WorkshoptoWilderness many thanks Mike, that’s a relief.

[@dujojelovic3522]

I have a small oil leak between oil cooler and this rotating aluminium housing, is it possible to repair?

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Yeah Its just an o-ring. You have to take it off though and replace them and fit it all back together. I

[@dujojelovic3522]

Is RPM sensor the crankshaft sensor (CPS) ? My rpm gauge is blocked, 2.5td VM

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Yeah it's the cps. It's accessible on the top of the transmission Bell Housing. You maybe able to access it from the back of the engine bay

[@zerosado2983]

You can “delete” your n1 injector sensor by doing a remap on the ecu

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Do you have any more information on how to do that? Thanks for watching.

[@mefford2692]

Being in America, where can I find and import a ZG with the VM?

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

That's a difficult one to be honest. I would think eBay UK or something would be the best. They are getting very rare though.

[@yiannnniss]

at 20:00 you suggest to block the egr valve. Doing so doesn’t make the engine run hotter? And probably affect turbo function?? I think Some technicians believe so.

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

When you say some technicians do you mean you watched 4wd24/7s video on it where they told you not to do it because the engine runs better with it connected. It's basically bullshit you know. It's a good channel but you have to remember it's one massive infomercial driven by wherever the money comes from. Mechanically there is no way for it to effect turbo function. It bypasses the turbo and re-enters the engine via inlet manifold. Egrs can help lower combustion temps but again nothing significant. Some more boost can lower combustion temps on a diesel. I don't understand why anyone would leave it connected given how choked up the trucks are at work.

[@yiannnniss]

@@WorkshoptoWilderness thanks for your answer. Honestly I don’t know the channel or the video you refer to. I just wanted your opinion about blocking that valve in this specific engine. I just bought an xj tdi 2,5 vm and i saw your video many many times. Technicians i mean the mechanics of my other cars. So your opinion is absolutely clear about that engine. Thanks again

[@adamfletcher4262]

Apart from the poor factory cylinder heads i really like the design of this engine i kinda want one 😂😂

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

I like it personally. The heads are a shame but warm up and cool down is the key I think with this old thing.

[@conwaykitty8647]

I had a friend that bought a Jeep Cherokee with a factory Renault diesel are they any good

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

There fairly low powered but light weight as its mostly all aluminium, but they can be modified quite easily for more power. I think there alright but I have no idea on popularity. I never saw one in all my time in the UK, or many at all in Europe.

[@sharonbrun7205]

Hey I have a car like yours And I see I have a lot of oil in the air system. After replacing the turbo the problem was not solved. The steam pipe of the engine Takes out a lot of oil even though no pressure is felt at all! Do you have an explanation for why this is happening? Or these engines work with a high level of suction oil, Which does not seem to me. I would love your response Thanks Sharon.

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

Hey Sharon. If oil in the intake was not solved by replacing the turbo then it would be the PCV system. Positive Crank Ventilation. Basically as the rings on the pistons ware down over many many years, combustion gas, oil vapor etc escape past the rings into the bottom of the engine. This then gets sucked out into the PCV system into an oil separator (black plastic can on the side of the engine). This oil separator has two hoses coming out of it, one going to the valve cover and the other goes back into the intake. This is where the oil is coming from. A small amount is no problem of course and is normal but large amounts can be catastrophic. The problem could be that your PCV oil separator is damaged or dirty. Maybe just taking it off and cleaning could help. The other issue is that the engine is worn, so perhaps the rings and cylinders are a bit old so you have excessive blow by and oil vapor coming with it. I would probabaly take off the oil separator and change it for a new one first. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304242698657?hash=item46d64729a1:g:mmkAAOSwKmZhorPc If that doesnt help then change your oil and throw in can of this - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/381968573380?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item58ef19e3c4:g:kbgAAOSw-zxWofPL&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACoPYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSQuF9OYLb3wphIAOfpJK8RrWnqpxWNuO3rVvO6cZu0Qo6QKJmjZwcN5Cpod6m5hZKXb1nm2LNysocZ5fYCPm0gNW3HOyFCRPqjI8dkTMwIcUHfntUcLNqFRymTCI4iCC%252FiJovAWs4m4v7a9yFIa5pdkmR4BGD1WayGnBsgFyPTLKTuIWI3mWPvCVg8xLMWbZexI9NKuCovEbm0zO2nkBYWVFqHhCIH9Bc3raM1ahR%252Bm3Wdp2o5UMkKora58CkmxyLGpq8eMmlFSXiGQk3D3X3mvNTM9B10BMGGgCW3LbWsvbX0GN1wOpKtmLPvUCQDcovy7YzzG3QiMuAyKSKzLJsdcUakFu%252FP7832HaLAyeep3npWEpk0ryySn9fGLdBTPm0II20t7vMZqzIGBCUrvX64etpa%252Bqg2HL5mRpQT8qptcOGttO1l5AfGmALoCtOYOTvSpcckaUPnNzQZqRLJwwx3iwkvbRESswkJHSc%252FkgO%252Fpm4RNZsnKAITmxw2gZTAqVUV8ounmRphgp00mwIWmfef3s1IJRlhYwDF8%252FueBiy9qfd7ts69k05tghVyBUO8FQyslJh71DH1jUW83fJrW0THzg5Ts5aSWLKhrpAK3rAyIy2hy76lvvFpNFFlvrkFpG%252FC0aurrqkFdMYdgoQapZ%252FQGp%252BCidsrwGOoAJuc6eSyQAHT69gK9JTNLYwzBKM91xRQ97VK6NVJ2PG57ByOnacfLAA%252BrU%252BQdjBdjT79yPQ8px5EaMnhf7EJqtLs0H2sv9av%252FzZmE4wvPzJ9yMysPUmC5x0xQIOLRQ9fWoPv%252FTQPjSuJPNC9DVA0PsGNdElk%252BSpK8Ty%252FdShgqZXxk7Z9Fp6Rw%253D%253D%7Cclp%3A2334524%7Ctkp%3ABFBMrN7d7NZf After adding this to a fresh change of oil, drive bout 100 miles and after that it should have reduced the ware in the cylinder walls by adding in lead and copper particles to give you better combustion. I use it with every oil change and I have been running max compression constantly. I hope this helps. Oh and moving forward you can add this in-between the PCV hose and air intake - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284111685330?hash=item42266046d2:g:xA4AAOSwN3xf03tq It will catch some of the oil, water and sludge coming back up the PCV and stop it entering the intake. Empty it twice a year.

[@sharonbrun7205]

@@WorkshoptoWilderness Hey Thank you very much for the explanation. It definitely helps. The vehicle has been with me for a month and I am studying it. I do not see the engine producing pressure in the pipe. It seems to me that someone has changed the height of the piping under the valve cover so a lot of oil is flowing down towards the OIL SEPERATOR. I may be wrong but that's my feeling. Begins to do tests and if necessary also does a general engine overhaul. Thank you so much for all the help You are doing a great service to people with such a vehicle. There are few in Israel Everyone here with a 4000cc gasoline engine. No knowledge and no spare parts for vm engines Thanks again Sharon.

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

If you want to your welcome to email me at [e-mail] with photos. Its makes it much easier for me. But I say this to everyone and its your call.

[@KaKamaKa1995]

and I had the strongest vM2.5 , rebuilded it 12 times! I lnow everything about it, is a good engine, but to many pieces! and definetly it likes boost!

[@Traulus83]

Any source for purchasing a blanking plate for the EGR?

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

I've added a link in the description. You can actually just slip this plate in between the egr and the exhaust manifold line so it looks factory.

[@Traulus83]

@@WorkshoptoWilderness Thanks. Was lookin earlier on ebay, couldn't find it. Want to remove the EGR as i would like to place an EGT in that spot

[@WorkshoptoWilderness]

An EGT is a great idea. It makes a huge difference in knowing what's actually going on in there. It's helped me a few times just gear down and drop almost 100 degrees off.

[@adamwest4987]

I'm so Upset we can't get those in the USA !