The First WOOD TRIM Goes On Our Homebuilt Catamaran (MJ Sailing - Ep 301)

[@theconfessionsof_a]

Great work, your persistence is really going to pay you back when the boat really shines!

[@davidmedley5970]

Your doing a great job. Keep after it and you'll be on the water in no time.

[@TheAtma50]

One small step for man, One giant step for MJ Sailing! ... Stay Safe & Fair Winds!!

[@MJSailing]

We're moving along now!!

[@nealeburgess6756]

Wow, that oak looks great. Nice medullary rays.

[@rogerwa123]

Assuming you will be doing a lot with the jointer and table saw, I think you would be well served getting something to support the outfeed. When going through the jointer you could see where it was being lifted up when being supported on the outfeed side.

[@MJSailing]

Believe me that I wished I had a roller stand on each end while doing this!

[@MrOso36]

Get a sheet of 1/2" melamine faced MDF. Rip a piece (use tape where saw blade exits the board to minimize tear out) that is 1'4" narrower than the bed of your planer and about two feet loner than the table on both sides. Using some double sided tape attached that board to the top of the planer's table making sure that it is level to your cutter head. You can attach a vertical leg on each end to help support the MDF board. @@MJSailing

[@OneTruePhreak]

​​@@MJSailingrollers are trash. They're too much of a pain to level with the table. Building a long table saves a lot of headaches. Just throw a bit of wax on it, and your material will slide smother than it would with rollers. Also, since you're going to be sanding anyway, setting the trim slightly proud isn't actually a big deal. Just sand it flush. It'll save time.

[@danknox9986]

On not sure about putting on the wood trim before painting. But we will see. Good luck.

[@MJSailing]

It will require a lot of rounds of good taping, but we think it's the best way for us to end up with a straight edge for the fiberglass/foam core.

[@rogerdinnis3816]

I think that I would apply a surface finish to the wood before gluing in place, the fairing compound will go into the grain.

[@MJSailing]

The issue with that is the fiberglass channel is only one layer of 12oz glass and doesn't have the rigidity to be finished flat like the surrounding area until after the wood is inserted. The wood needs to go in slightly proud and get sanded flat along with the fiberglass channel to get it fair with the surrounding. If we finished the wood first, it would have been uneven with the surface.

[@bkackman]

Nice to be working in wood now for a change. Interesting how much "chemistry" you need to know to make the right adhesive selections. Even I'm amazed as you pan in various shots to not only see how much you've accomplish but also acknowledge that you've worked every single piece of it. Truly remarkable.

[@richb313]

You guys are making fantastic progress starting the wood trim.

[@MJSailing]

Thank you! We're really impressed with the difference it's already making to the area.

[@TotalBoat]

Such an exciting step in the build! Amazing progress!

[@michaelcox1071]

You've moved on to woodworking! You used to get pointers from all the online fiberglass experts who aren't making a boat. But woodworking means you get to be second-guessed by all the other "experts" on the interwebs!

[@MJSailing]

Oh yes, I am starting to see that, haha. 🤣. Waiting to get referred to Sampson Boat Co and Ran Sailing so we can learn from their wood boat builds. (As well as Acorn to Arabella and Salt & Tar)

[@charlesplewes48]

Don't stop and start on the table saw and planer. Slow and steady is your friend.

[@matswilliams1058]

Well done, a first start for the next phase of your great project!!

[@BarkTheAlliedGiant]

She's going to be an absolute beauty when she's done!

[@MJSailing]

Thank you so much! She's getting a little closer every day.

[@jerrybarrett6376]

Great detail work crew! Your vessel will make you proud. Bear 🐻

[@BillB23]

When I think about what a long slog you two have been through, I reflect at how long, for example, Tally Ho, Arabella, and Rediviva were under construction. Y'all are flying!

[@pmnfernando]

cant really compare. building a kit aint the same as a scratch build, much less traditionally boatbuilding

[@billpittore]

Please buy or make a couple of push sticks for use on the table saw! I was cringing watching you push that thin piece through.😵‍💫

[@michaelcox1071]

He used a push stick at the end, but the video is accelerated, so its hard to tell.

[@billpittore]

I didn't catch that first time I watched. Been woodworking for 40 yrs. and one close call gave me push stick religion.

[@nauy]

Push blocks for thin strips.

[@stephanmaeder6440]

The board is too long for the size of the equipment

[@vfrtodd]

That table saw has a push stick on the other side of the fence. Why he is not using it is beyond me.

[@craiggrocott7559]

Jointer!

[@rolandtb3]

Learning from mistakes and gain practice through repetition. Looks fairly level. Good job with lots of work.

[@jurisvilde2151]

You’re doing really well.

[@seancollins9745]

looks good guys !

[@keithmcintosh3446]

Suggestion, why not put a small rebate on the wood trim so it covers up the fiberglass edge.

[@Sue29966]

Absolutely

[@dcallan812]

I guess wood dust is an improvement over fairing compound dust. 🤣🤣 If only for a short time. Great update 👍

[@MJSailing]

You should have seen my shoes after I took them off!! They were full of sawdust. 🤣

[@robm.4512]

Not certain if you’ve got one, Matt, but if not it’s easy to make a feather board to keep your timber pressed to the fence on your circular saw and other machines. It makes doing a continuous feed by hand much easier and keeps your extremely valuable pinkies out of harms way. You can buy them but it really only takes 10 minutes to make one from scrapwood, cheapest and best accessory you’ll ever have that isn’t a push stick. Hope it helps, Cheers, R. 😎👍🍻

[@MJSailing]

Unfortunately our feather board fits the router table and other tablesaw (which is for fiberglass) and didn't fit this one like I thought. We've got a new one on order.

[@robm.4512]

@@MJSailing 😄👍 All good, sorry I assumed. Just trying to be helpful. The interior’s really starting to come together, I know only too well how much work you two have piled through and how much you’ve got ahead of you. Hat’s off to you both. Cheers, R. 🍻

[@rooster8039]

I bet that fresh cut timber smell is way better than that fiber glass smell...👍...

[@MJSailing]

Just a little bit, haha.

[@TXP2P69]

What no fiber glass sanding and painting and sanding and sanding? Finally !

[@MJSailing]

Oh, there's still plenty of glassing and fairing to be had!! 😃👍. It's just all behind the scenes at the moment.

[@vntgltg1]

Just a suggestion. I would never put your hand on the blade guard when using the jointer. If you slip it could be disaster. Also be careful not to push your hand over the saw blades even if it doesn' pretude it is a accident waiting to happen. Woodworking can be very rewarding and fun but not if you lose a finger. Be safe!

[@tomcoon9038]

As a woodworker, I was scared sh!tless watching him work. I am a Toolmaker by trade with a home woodshop. I'm proud to say I never had an accident requiring any stitches as a Toolmaker for 40 years. Proud of it and taught many apprentices. Going home with all fingers is #1 priority! The job is NOT that important!

[@dwk5234]

The final product will be stunning thanks to your attention to detail! Please consider a couple of things to make it easier/safer: the best blade you can buy for your job site table saw will pay dividends on not having as much to sand or surface, and dust from sanding, cutting, and shaping oak (and some other woods) can be as hard on your lungs as fiberglass and fillers…you’ll enjoy your boat for many more years if you wear respirators, eye and ear protection…

[@mbrown2224]

Hi guys, love the progress on the boat, however like some of the other comments you should consider making some moulding that fits into the foam core and around the outside of the face. This will provide strength to the edge and reduce the need to fair the gel coat to the timber . Something like a U or J shape would be good.❤

[@MJSailing]

It's much easier to do overlays... Either doors or trim, but it's a look we don't like.

[@nicovanzyl2059]

I don't want to be rude my friend , can you just order the wood trimmings from the factory please . I was in the joinery and cabinetry for 50 years and you just dont look handy enough. I surely dont want you to get hurt . Thanks .

[@duathlete827]

I'm sure your eventual children and maybe grand children will enjoy finishing the build with or for you lol.

[@timothyodonnell8591]

A new medium to work with. How exciting! Love it! Will you be staining the wood?

[@allmomomosthomebus3895]

I can picture the white oak trim finished. It will look sharp.

[@timcorso6337]

Shadow lines look very classy where you join to surfaces together. It’s like engineering a crack to hide one. Worth a though?

[@josephdeak2257]

Love your videos this build looks like it’s getting painful. See you at the boat show.

[@rickwelin9773]

Those cracks are going to open later. Wood and plastic expand at different rates. Use 3m 4200 instead...faster easier and flexible and it will fill the gaps

[@LeeKrusienski]

Please use a wider piece of wood, cut a dado so the wood will slightly overlap the doorframe and eliminate much work.

[@w8stral]

No kidding: Title of episode should be: How NOT to do trim work...

[@jonathanstinnett1579]

If you buy S3S lumber, technically you should only have to rip it on the table saw to get the rough end cut off. I guess that is if you trust your table saw fence. Awesome video though! I love white oak.

[@charlesmcdonald5465]

Glad to see you get a break from fairing! Looks pretty good! Be careful with those contractor tools many a good carpenter with three fingers or one thumb!!

[@robertzalnis3162]

I see Matt using a long board to sand the fairing compound to the wood. That long board looks exactly like mine that has a thin rubber pad on it. Sanding with rubber pads will leave low spots like you are experiencing. I used to put a thin 1/8" piece of plywood between the rubber pad and my sandpaper. You would find it makes it much flatter and lessens the need for a second or third layer of fairing. I even used this method on convex curves using a hard rubber sanding block only at the end to finish the work.

[@MJSailing]

Good idea. Thanks 👍

[@marklapierre5629]

I see wood!

[@philkakid5617]

Have you thought about getting an electric or air file? It really expedites the long board sanding process.

[@MJSailing]

We also have an air file. But we need a semirigid board for most areas since the hulls side are pretty deeply concave (which doesn't show in the video) and the furniture is too small of an area to have an issue long boarding by hand.

[@waltervang]

Hi Matt, come back with some nice things to do around amsterdam, The NDSM Wharf is a nice place to visit, the De Bier Fabriek at Nes 67 is known for their combo beer and chicken and you can not miss the gebrouwen door vrouwen(brewed by women) at Jan Pieter Heijestraat 119 both in amsterdam. Both very good places to have a beer or 2.

[@MJSailing]

Thanks Walter. We plan to be there again for METS.... Mostly to visit friends and spend more time touring 😁

[@waltervang]

@@MJSailing if you tour a bit you should visit Haarlem and Utrecht at least and some shipyards around kaag and braassemermeer. Enjoy the Mets and your visit. I have been at Mets a couple of years with the company whispergen at the time. So know the show and it’s a good show.

[@williamralph5442]

Does the boat kit come with a huge construction manual ? Lol..one more step done. Good job.

[@lagerhead101]

If skim over the wood and sand it comes out level and clean edges

[@michaellovell9625]

It looks like the saw blade needs sharpening. Sharp blades will not burn the wood as yours is doing and sharp blades are safer to use. I have been watching from the beginning and I am looking forward to the finished product. Keep up the good work and I am sure you will be happy with the results. Be safe and see you next week. ⛵🇺🇸

[@MJSailing]

I agree .... It was a fairly new blade that came with the saw, but is nowhere near as nice as the one we have for our track saw. A new blade along with a feather board for this table saw (our other doesn't fit) are on order.

[@davesav1]

As a retired cabinet maker, one thing I hate to see on ytube videos is people using a table saw without a hood over the blade. I would hate for one of you guys to loose the use of a thumb or finger for a while (or even worse loose a finger completely). Also as has already been commented, get yourself a roller support for the outfeed, they're not expensive .(sorry I'm UK based so don't know names of your suppliers)

[@Tomm9y]

Is there a local joiner who can help you with more complex, bigger tasks? Also some cabinet pieces can be purchased ready formed, see Distant Shores recent episode on their aluminium boat fit out in the Netherlands. People with suitable pieces of equipment take only a short time to produce identical pieces. Good to see you a freer of the filling and sanding.

[@garrylegare1266]

When mixing the epoxy use small paper cups. It wastes less epoxy, mixes better and you don't have to wipe up the residue. Just toss the cup.

[@w8stral]

Using cups Works with liquid epoxies: does NOT work with putties as you cannot eyeball amounts(but you can if you sacrifice some rigid spoons)

[@gsftom]

Like yr in/outfeed 🙂

[@rickhofbauer3661]

Great vid, if you can add bench extensions to your planners would make life so much easier and that little bit more level, and turns into a one person job, lots of faring left to do lol.

[@Jhbrenner1]

If your not going overlap the fiberglass with the trim, sometimes it’s easier, faster and looks more finished to accentuate joints instead of trying for a perfect seam. Maybe a V groove or ? Just a thought.

[@MJSailing]

I would have loved to have a v-groove, but the delicate single layer of fiberglass doesn't allow for it to be prefinished before the wood is installed. So sanding is required and that would make keeping the uniform groove very difficult

[@Jhbrenner1]

@@MJSailing yea, I wasn’t sure if a V would work, but thought someone might have a suggestion other than lapping with trim. With the boat flexing that still might be a good solution. Of course a crisp line between the trim and cabinet would look incredible.

[@BikeBoatandTravel]

Normally I would just be sitting back enjoying your video but I saw something around the 3 minute mark when you were cutting that board on the table saw..... Yikes, that was table saw kick back waiting to happen, and Jess would have been the victim. The large part of the board is always between the fence and the blade where you can control it. You will be doing a lot of this so avail yourself with the many table saw safe practice vids on YT. We want you to get to the other end of this with all your digits!!.

[@billbrown3643]

I think I would be afraid to come on your boat because if you made a little mark on it, you guys would be three weeks taking care of it. OK well have a good day because you’re gonna be forever working on that boat.

[@MJSailing]

This isn't just a vessel for us - it's our dream home. And the only one we're going to build solely by ourselves. I see nothing wrong in taking pride in our work and making sure we do it correctly. Are you worried we'll not have enough time to sail it once we're finished? We're not, we have the rest of our lives for that. 😉 - Jessica

[@howiefeltersnatcher]

Love your videos but I have 1 suggestion don’t over analyze each process you do a great job of explaining and making sure you do everything correctly but it will take you 5 years to complete this boat trying to get everything perfect yes you want it done right but you need to remember you want to be able to enjoy the experience of the boat before you are too old and it’s 10years later 😂

[@nicovanzyl2059]

Sorry , me again. To hide that line you do a 7 mm rebate in the wood with a 7 mm overhang . 45 degree corners.

[@MJSailing]

We wanted flush trim without an overlap.

[@jamesmyers2087]

You guys must be positively ecstatic to be working with any material that isn't composite or fiberglass. Do you have access to any friend or supporter that can help with a CNC router? They are money for repetitive work such as drawers, drawer faces, cabinet doors.

[@kenkaz3376]

Hey Matt. I’m confused. Why wouldn’t you just cap those edges with dado’s strips? Much cleaner and you can do it post faring and paint. Just asking. I’m a wood guy so thought I’d ask..Capt Kaz

[@MJSailing]

We don't like the look of the overlapped trim or cabinet doors.

[@mloret6745]

It is very evident that you are an amateur, but cudos on persistence.

[@stevethurlow9059]

use feather boards and push sticks.......

[@stevetash5032]

MJ Woodworks? MJ Carpentry?

[@netpackrat]

FWIW the wish list links in the description don't seem to work.

[@craiggrocott7559]

Just put a 6mm architrave over the join, the amount of time you are spending on this is laudable but surely your time could be better spent.

[@nickbrennan3925]

I love your boat building series and your approach has been really good throughout, however watching what you were doing with the oak trim hurt my soul. You could shape them to insert into the rebates or rabbits and overlap the fibreglass edge , this would negate any messy finishing and leave a clean edge.

[@MJSailing]

We wanted the trim flush and not overlapped

[@nickbrennan3925]

I appreciate your desire to achieve a clean edge finish. I don’t think you’ll achieve it this way unless you finish the fibreglass edge before fitting the oak, otherwise you’ll have a tonne of cleanup and refinishing after. Good luck and keep going I really look forward to seeing you guys get to the end.

[@MJSailing]

It's how they did it on the older Balance catamarans.

[@FSaarela]

Youst a thougt not a lesson... I remember that you somewhere down the line cut out/ressesd the foam core for some reason. Would it be possible to cut out a couple of centimeters of the foam core and resses the wood in to that space. So that the board edge cant flex and to strengthen the construction overall. It would also in my mind prevent cracks and individual varping of the board and wall. Furthermore i fantasize about it being easier to install the wood trim if it had a reseseded grove to just pusch in to the wall. Like you did whit the fiber "rope"...

[@charliecruzen3394]

Hope you realize after all the effort to bond wood to the glass skin edge it will eventually crack. Good thing it will be a fine line crack. It will look beautiful mean time. Hope I am wrong. Why don't you just Squeegee the epoxy squeeze out instead of extra faring step?

[@alvinbuckles9744]

I wonder if gorilla glue would be a easier way to glue the wood in place.

[@MJSailing]

We need thickened epoxy to fill the uneven fiberglass edges to make them flush with the surrounding surface.

[@RichardHolsten]

I think what you’re doing is absolutely brilliant but just lately rather a lot very close camera work especially of Matt sweaty head not good ,otherwise excellent

[@MJSailing]

He was using his phone instead of the GoPro, which usually has a wide angle lens, haha. A few more rounds of filming with it and he'll get the hang of it. 😉

[@andrewmitchell9989]

It's not a catamaran it's a kitamaran 😮

[@simonbucknall3699]

Just out of interest are you trimming the tops and bottoms as well and if so is there a reason you aren’t you mitering the corners?

[@MJSailing]

The tops and bottoms are painted fiberglass. The doors will be horizontal veneer and this just frames the sides.

[@simonbucknall3699]

Thanks, you guys are doing an amazing job, love the videos. Mind your fingers on the saw!

[@smulismuli7976]

I don't understand the cutting or planing wood neither with you or RAN sailing...other than video purposes. And yes, been involved in boat building since a kid

[@smiffy5467]

Why don’t you profile the wood to lip over the edge and hide it, it will be a nightmare trying to paint the hull and the wood separately… 👍

[@JoAndMikeNow]

Please keep your hands away from those blades. Safety gear! I could tell you some horror stories about people who didn’t. Awesome work on the yacht. Thanks for the great content

[@jiminauburn5073]

Why not just have the wood overlap the edge of the fiberglass a little, then no need to fill in between the two? How does the factory do it?

[@MJSailing]

We really don't like the look of overlaid trim. The factory finishes the door opening with thickened resin and paint. The cabinet doors are overlay.

[@jiminauburn5073]

@@MJSailing I figured it was most likely a preference issue. I could not see the factory going to the work that you guys are. Makes sense that they just put the thickened resin, a little sanding and they are done. While your trim will look great, and high end, unfortunately it is going to take a lot of work for you to get there. It looked like what you did, did not take long, but pretty sure that was the magic of editing, and there was a lot of work that was not recorded. Things are changing and it is looking better and better.

[@MJSailing]

I thought it would take a lot of time too, but surprisingly I got all the spots ready for trim done in three days. And it only took that time because I had to wait for clamps to become available once one piece's epoxy cured.

[@davidnormandin5428]

A door gets a face

[@jonrjd912]

Please get a magnetic feather board for that table saw. The way you are cutting is extremely dangerous.

[@MJSailing]

I know. We have feather boards for our other fiberglass table saw, but they don't fit the track of the DeWalt (which has the better fence and is the wood saw).

[@jginmt]

Sharp edges? Why not router the edges round?

[@MJSailing]

Since they go in slightly proud and get sanded down after cure, we have to wait to ease the edge after this.

[@AlexRodriguez-dw7ub]

I've seen better heads on lettuce 😂

[@mauriceryton]

Oh my god, get a couple of push blocks. I was horrified watching how close your hands were to the cutting head. Also buy or make a couple of push stick and feather boards for the tablesaw and router. Having your hands and fingers so close and within the danger zone is an accident waiting to happen. To remove the compound use a card scraper. Any decent woodworking shop will sell them. Amazon will sell them too, you will need a burnisher to put a cutting edge on the scraper. I would suggest not cutting corners on the finish you apply to the wood. Really do your homework. I just built a patio table and 1 quart of the exterior finish l used was $70.00 l then put two coats of ceramic wood finish on top of that. 3 ounces was $35.00 but it goes a very long way. BlackForest wood products sell it. New technology which protects your hard work.

[@HowardBurchell]

i was a profesional wood worker and i got quite concerned watching you edge that wood etc please add roller supports front and back of your planer to support your work piece and use a feather board to keep your work pressed to the fence. Better still, i understand money constraints but you wont be really successful using those DIY machines. Take you lumber to a professional and have it milled or splash out and purchase professional type machines with a greater work surface area. Also, flush fitting wood to fiberglass is probably not going to work for you. you will be reworking/pushing/pulling forever. what to do? finish the mating surfaces with a thin trim strip

[@keylimers]

Focus on a fake slider. OMG.

[@w8stral]

This is what a train wreck looks like in finish work...

[@johnfulton8023]

Think your would do much better if your partner smiled now and again, he really as a miserable guy!!

[@dannotte7289]

You are wasting a tremendous amount of time attempting to match a crooked piece of wood to a crooked wall. If you plan to do this on every door frame you’re going to be there forever. Considering framing like a conventional door or overlap the wall with the wood unless you love to sand epoxy.

[@bbrowne8155]

I agree with someone below.....It would have been more realistic to have bought a finished vessel. Think of all the places you could have sailed to.....

[@MJSailing]

We have a good 20-30 years left to be on the water. Why not be able to spend 3-4 of those years building if it's what we enjoy?