The Fundamentals of Wall Framing with Steve Baczek Architect

Full Video Here - buildshownetwo...
Steve Publishes a Video EVERY FRIDAY at buildshownetwo... Make sure to sign up for our Newsletter to get weekly updates from Matt Risinger on whats new!
Follow along behind the scenes at -
/ thebuildshow
/ the_buildshow
/ buildshownetwork

[@hickorydragon8114]

Great explanation. I love the part about the Jack studs, but I didn't understand the part about the coordination between the insulator and the framer

[@MegsCarpentry-lovedogs]

As always Steve, bookedmarked this video to show the builder I may be hiring to help me with an extension, and a structural engineer should he and I need to have deeper dive discussions. Thank you so much from Atlantic Canada🙏🇨🇦

[@boedillard8807]

Steve, thanks for the video! Can you please do a video on the construction of a house with floor joists, ijoists or trusses in a house with a basement? I never have seen a detailed video showing the constructution but have seen joists on 2x6" over a cement wall, 2x10's with hangers sitting on a basement wall, and a few other things. I'd like to see one that is designed to resist water rot and proper weight depth on the ledge etc. I understand the type of joist and the depth of it is dependent on span. Not sure if you'd like to get specific but I plan on doing a 2x6" wood frame house - single floor, with a basement. Estimated size about 2800 square feet with a 36" wide basement. I was thinking of splitting down the middle with a carrying beam or whatever the architect recommended. I was going for about 10' between the basement floor and the sheathing for the 1st' floor, with 10" thick basement walls.

[@kpezzolesi]

Thanks Steve, your video's are great. Quick question: Why do you use a double sill plates below the windows?

[@oldskoolwayy]

Love Steve's knowledge

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Thank you sir

[@MrEbidorian]

Basically the basics with Baczek

[@amerlin388]

I fully understand the reason to use double jack studs to support the I-joist being used as a header. In fact I would probably beef the I-joist up with some cripple studs inside the joist; sideways, hopefully leaving some room for insulation across the full width. I hope there is already some insulation between the back side of the I-joist and the OSB sheathing. With the wide width studs, I'm surprised you didn't use 2x10's with foam board insulation sandwiched in between. Even so, I still think the window top plate should be supported also. You pointed out the cripple stud below the I-joist; where is that potential load being transferred? And why isn't it centered? I can only guess the wider partition is a 24" gap suitable for one of the planned insulation sizes. The bottom plate looks to be untreated lumber. Is the floor above ground? I at first thought this was a garage/workshop because of the beefy door frame but the floor is not concrete. What kind of door was planned? Thanks for the education.

[@brucemacneil]

Curious - do you have any temperature gradient profiles for different wall assemblies?

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

You can run Therm to get them

[@regulus2169]

California corner is derived from the term "California Stop" meaning to not come to a complete stop or running it altogether.

[@pepstein]

That's awesome! What's bad for driving is good for framing.

[@JohnComeOnMan]

I realize it's tradition on the East coast, but why are you using strapping on the underside of TGI joists?

[@Sn0wZer0]

On another video a builder said it allows them to shim if needed to level the ceiling perfectly. Seems surprising to me that you'd need that with an engineered joist, but maybe those level-5 finishes really are that unforgiving.

[@jonesconrad1]

it's quite cheap to do I bet it gives a few things , shimming as James mentions and also additional ridgitiy

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Also, electricians have come to expect it here

[@ericwotton2046]

Also makes sneaking a wire thru the level 5 finished ceiling alot less invasive. Someone with this money will want to make changes to the lighting later on.

[@shiranduarte]

I'm brazilian and I'm learning the basics of woodframe, and since it is very far from our building traditions (which is brick and mortar by the way) we are on average pretty much ignorant on this method. I'm very surprised and actually flabbergasted with the enourmous amount of woodplanks required to build a single house. It's beautiful, nonetheless.

[@59seank]

Is that number of studs normal? I count five studs by the window. Is there a cement truck on the second floor? (Yes, I'm NOT a building professional or an engineer.) I'm just curious.

[@judmcfeters9054]

I was wondering something similar. 2 jack studs on each side of each window shown and then the big window just to the left of frame has 3 king studs on 1 side also? Why so beefed up?

[@59seank]

@Brian McKay Look to the opening at the left of the window.

[@vMrSharpYv]

I can speak for what I can gather at the freeze frame at 2:00 The window has three studs on either side, listed from outside in they are termed: King, Jack, Trim As Steve mentioned, a King is a typical stud for all intensive purposes, the jack caries the load of the header to prevent a case of shear failure, and the trim stud accepts the windows and indirectly supports the header above the window. Between the header and the window are the cripples, typically found in my area installed above the header, but I am definitely interested in learning the pros of this method. To speak to the door opening at time 1:43 it appears the following is happening. The increased opening span of the doorway results in a greater point load applied to the column, so two studs are directly supporting from beneath, while another acts in a stabilizing manner such as the king stud. The "king stud" and an additional two studs (totaling 3) appear to be supporting a structural beam that is aligned with them from above and runs in the perpendicular to the door opening. In essence, two columns are side by side. In the space between the door and the window is a "common stud" as Steve refers to it, and that it located beneath the floor joist to reduce the shear that the double top plate is subjected to. -Studying engineer

[@59seank]

@@vMrSharpYv Thanks for the explanation! Good luck with your studies.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

@@vMrSharpYv There are also some beams above

[@JohnathanBach]

Nominal R-value = cavity R-value True R-value = total wall R-value Here in Canada, the codes are beginning to require R-20 as true R-20, meaning we must deepen the cavity, which presents more issues for condensation on the cold condensing surface (the deeper the wall cavity, the further the inside of the sheathing is from the heat, making it colder with heightened risk to condensation). The other solution is exterior insulation, more expensive, but seems to be the better option for building longevity.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Exterior continuous insulation is ALWAYS the win (except financially maybe)

[@timothyendsley5833]

Is there an argument for or against double-stud wall framing?

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

I do it quite often, for even more energy efficient requirements

[@jennnyandjeffs]

Wouldn't it be more economical, and produce a better insulated house, to use 2x6 framing and exterior insulation? Like Rockwool's comfortboard or Zip System R Sheating, not to mention foam board?

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

There is 2" rigid insualtion on the outside

[@vanderumd11]

You mean over 2x8 studs

[@robertbragg2380]

I work in Oklahoma New Construction. I have a question. Why do you use 1x4s on the ceiling?

[@Paul-IE-Repairs]

makes the drywall flat, texured walls is common for mid west, southern homes, most homes in the upper states and east coasts go with a smooth wall finish.

[@FourthWayRanch]

i don't understand why they have 3 verticle members in that window when they don't support anything up aobve?

[@pauliossi2674]

good stujff. 2x4 0n 16 and 2x6 0n 24 use the same amount of lumber for structure. would their be an energy advantage to going to a double wall using 2x4 on 16 outer walls and either 2x4 0r 2x3 0n 16 or 19.2 or 24 for the interior wall that would only carry the insulation and drywall? 0r maybe even a wood i beam for the outside walls

[@timskufca8039]

a double wall was done to eliminate "bridging" (the inefficient R-value of wood studs), but I believe it is more effectively done by blanketing the entire structure with rigid insulation. This stops all bridging.

[@borys444]

I heard mixed reviews about double walls, most just say if u lots of money to piss away then go ahead with it but other then that it’s not worth it.

[@iadc43]

The jack studs in the example don’t even support the window header. Why is that?

[@borys444]

I noticed that to. It looks like he just built a box to put on top of the window which serves no structural purpose IMO.

[@angoory]

@@borys444 The jacks are supporting some sort of beam above the window and cripple wall.Never seen it done like this before but not wrong with it I guess.

[@borys444]

Fereidoon Angoory yeah it’s as u say “some sort of the beam” but doesn’t that defeat the entire purpose of supporting a load bearing wall properly? U would need the window header to sit directly under the top plate of the outer wall in order to distribute the load properly.

[@iadc43]

My best guess is simply that the studs are 2x8 and the actual structure isn’t needed for additional support. Just seemed weird to see it framed out appearing at first as expected, but doesn’t do anything but hold the drywall in place.

[@angoory]

@@borys444 ​The header is taking on the roof framing load above and moving it to the jack studs. The cripple is acting as just a wall infill framing. Not sure why they would put the cripple infill in.....maybe future renovation (Higher Windows etc).

[@timskufca8039]

wouldn't the rim joist above your double top plate help carry the 16" oc joists above the 24" oc studs so that you could, in fact, use a single top plate. Also, there are a number of Simpson or similar hardware to eliminate much of the king-stud / jack-stud overkill on that window (to get closer to an "Advanced Framing" wall).

[@jaxturner7288]

Do they have a name for people who love Simpson strong tie, fasteners and special moment systems more than natural? I’m one of those, Simpson is a company that has helped building technology actually catch up with the rest world. Their products have and will continue to save lives and prevent tragedies for generations to come. All hail Simpson.

[@Fetecheney]

@@jaxturner7288 lol. Simpson is a great company. I sometimes just thumb through my Simpson catalogue so I can know their products better. Been a bunch of situations I've had a perfect bracket/hanger to suggest as a solution for clients

[@jaxturner7288]

Kyle Cheney they have a channel too if you wanna keep up to date with the latest bit n pieces.

[@jaxturner7288]

Phelebas oh? They are made from a material weaker than wood? What material are they?

[@jaxturner7288]

Phelebas oh man, yeah osb does not give me much confidence.

[@MegsCarpentry-lovedogs]

Here is a question for Matt or Scott , Steve B or this community. It was about Scott Trues last vid on Matts channel recently. Scott talked in the vid about Lstiburek suggesting placing the drainage wrap over the sheathing but inside of the rigid foam. I listened to Lstiburek in another vid suggest that in case water got between the sheathing and the most inside rigid foam it would have a space to drain. In doing more research there are building science people who do not include that drainage wrap over the sheathing and only over the most exposed rigid foam. We saw that Scott found even the dashes of liquid flash may not be effective to create enough of a gap. Remember, there is hydro tension to consider if the air gap is not wide enough. STeve Baczek talked about this on one of his vids. Can someone clarify, with being in zone 7 Canada, if that drainage plan is really needed? I talked with a builder here on Prince Edward Island, CAnada, where I live, and to eliminate any rain getting in between the rigid foam we were thinking of using the "brake" to bend aluminum to cap off the top. That would be the only place water could get in...maybe rain hitting it even under the eaves due to rain...and we are getting a lot of hurricanes now so wind direction is changing and more forceful. I continue to research and hope a few of you will answer. I might copy and paste this comment and add it to Matt's channel comments and Steve Baczeks as well. Cheers ☺🇨🇦 Long live our buildings👍

[@BostonMark]

👍

[@tylerlebsack9143]

Great videos Steve! The drawing board video quality lacked a little and overall production value could use some work but still a fan!

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

We are working on that

[@pcatful]

double jack studs (trimmers) on such a short header span. Very unusual. I don't see the point. Also the cripples betweem the trimmers. Not necessary. I would think advanced framing would eliminate a lot here. I think it is clear this extra wood is not needed. Double non-structural header? This is prioritizing wood over insulation.

[@McMahans1]

c'mon, just show the whole video why don't ya...

[@lsellclumanetsolarenergyll5071]

so strange to still watch and see so much wood been used in construction. I am a fan of AAC and Concrete with Steel. And I think really we should start using those material a lot more often preformed to enhance the structure of a building. Ok you got off a little bit there are 2 factors why you need a double top plate. One because your cross beams are off center. But more important because it is a CODE for any load bearing wall so later on it is easy to identity for remodel work to see what is a load bearing wall and what isn't.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Wood is a renewable resource with much much less embodied energy compared to concrete or steel, also has at least some thermal value, and easy to alter on site

[@lsellclumanetsolarenergyll5071]

@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Wood sure is a renewable but also a weak structure material when you compare it to steel or concrete but lighter. If you would finally start to use more AAC you would see how much faster, more consistent and how much more R Value you getting plus on top AAC are Concrete Foam blocks so super easy to work with and with 51psi per square inch also much stronger than cinder blocks. You do really great work but missing out on benefits which will blow your mind away once you start working those into your portfolio. So keep up the good work and always challenge yourself to the next level.

[@vanderumd11]

Concrete is going to be short supply

[@lsellclumanetsolarenergyll5071]

@@vanderumd11 Not for Florida. Maybe up north but Florida has their own mines so we a got all the supplies we need.

[@gfy2979]

Honestly, I'm over stud style framing. I wouldn't if I built my own house. In fact, it makes me furious!

[@gfy2979]

I understand the system, and it can work but I'm not cool with the generally inaccessible voids it creates, the attempts to stuff insulation, wires, and piping through said voids.

[@gfy2979]

@@David-gld Matt Risinger of the same network here showed an awesome solid wall hempcrete build.

[@gfy2979]

@@David-gld so, who are you?

[@dspears666]

You talk about advanced framing and then put an excessive amount of trimmers or jacks. Why?

[@brucemacneil]

Darn - just noticed this is another of those silly bait and switch videos. Steve is great - but really.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Thank you sir