The LMI Digital String Height Gauge

A review of the Luthiers Mercantile International Digital String Height Gauge. Be sure to share your ideal measurements for string action in the comments below.
LMI Digital String Height Gauge: www.lmii.com/measuring-tools/...
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[@HighlineGuitars]

Be sure to comment with what you consider ideal string action at the 1st fret and the 12th fret as well as the reasons why you prefer specific dimensions. Thanks!

[@jmanzemail]

I like my action at 1/32, perfectly straight neck, no real buzz worth noting... THIS tool gets me there every time! You can check string height at the nut as well don't forget! Might be useful to some, even if using other tools to fine tune a nut...

[@BB-Rareburto]

@@jmanzemail at what fret is your action at 1/32 ?

[@jmanzemail]

@@BB-Rareburto Across the entire fretboard. No buzz. Plays like a fretless wonder...

[@jmanzemail]

Hi, I once thought I invented this until I found your video and that it was already real. It's been a year since I placed my order for this. Just change the battery for the first time and it's still working great. I love this tool! There is a bit of a learning curve and so forth with getting the hang of using it as well as the right-hand feel sensitivity and placement. Once you get the hang of it works perfectly. BIG THX for recommending... Great channel too btw, I'm a home luthier and love so many of your tips! My work has improved greatly because of you!

[@208414]

I have that same LMI tool and have been very happy with the purchase. It makes it easy for me to repeat my setup specifications. For preferred action (measured at the last fret with a capo on fret 1) is 4/64 inches on the bass side and 3/64 inches in the treble side. This is for my own guitars. I like that action because it feels great to play and is buzz free on a properly constructed electric guitar.

[@yonitznkc]

I got one of these last ‘COVID year 2020,’ locked down and cranking out 5 homemade guitars. It’s a must-have for slotting nuts accurately, and for set ups. 👍🏼

[@SIX1NINEGUITARSANDGEAR]

hair all slicked back today.. love the content sr I’ve learned so much from watching your videos

[@moparlover2479]

Very cool! Just ordered 2! Thanks man!

[@daulay3322]

I like 1 to 1.5mm at 12th. And I like to see a passionate 58 years old Luthier sharing his knowledge better 😊. God bless you, Sir.

[@normhoffman5476]

Great review! I'm ordering one! My preferred action for electrics is 4-5/64 on the low E and 3-4/64 on the high e at the 12th fret. For acoustics, about 1-2/64 higher. It seems that is the mode preference of most of my customers as well.

[@captbuscemi]

Just starting out building and my own guitars, as well as setups for family and friends. I’m a bass player, I like 5/64” (2mm) at the 17th fret for all strings, and 0.020” (0.5mm) at first fret. It’s a really comfortable general-purpose action for finger style, slap and picking. I know some slap players that go slightly lower to 4/64 but that’s getting a bit low for other playing styles unless you have an extremely light touch.

[@erichfrederick9229]

I just tried ordering one of these because of this video. They're out of stock at the moment. I'm really wanting this after this video and curious. I love new gadgets and technology that works.

[@paularmstrong8445]

I follow Gibson specs (as best I could find) for my custom guitars at the nut, 0.022 Low E and 0.012 High E at first fret, then aim for 0.060 Low E and 0.050 High E at 12th fret. Fits my playing style perfectly. I use a stacked feeler gauge and a digital multimeter to precisely measure the gap between the string and the fret. Put the multimeter in "beep" mode, connect the ground lead to any string and the positive lead to the feeler gauge stack (I have some bat claw leads for this which work really well but you could use alligator clips too). Slide feeler gauge stack between string and stack and if it beeps then the gap is smaller than your stack. Adjust your stack to measure actual gap, or lower nut slot / bridge height to get to your desired action when it just starts to beep. Cheap and incredibly precise.

[@cattaraugustonawanda4426]

Looks like a Brown and Sharp digital depth gauge modified with a base to suit the job. Good idea.

[@larrysteinke1839]

I generally set the neck relief with capos on first and last fret and then just tap the string with my finger in the middle. it gives a specific sound and feel for minimal clearances. for the action i set a capo on 1st fret and measure the clearance at the 12th fret with a small tapered wooden wedge which i calibrated with calipers and usually adjust to between 1.5 to 1.75 mm for my own guitars, depending on what feels best for the string gauge, scale length, and state of the frets. the calibrated wedge is handy because you can easily make a few of them and keep them handy in the guitar case. with the guitar in playing position just let the wedge drop in place without forcing it. calibrate a few lines, ie. at 0.5mm steps.

[@TheGorillafoot]

Great, another tool I need to buy

[@jonahguitarguy]

Most of my clients want string action as low as possible without buzz. Usually 4/64 fat E and 3/64 high E at the 12th. Nut action usually ends up about .016 first fret fat E .010 high E. Also fairly flat neck a around .08 relief.

[@hankgesmag9650]

It is most definitely a step in the right direction with this device as long as you can control the "deforming" force on the string height. It is a bit difficult to judge what that force is from your video, but it does, however, look to be pretty small. I hear you! When you get older, you have problems with those string height tools, I simply cannot read the scale on there anymore and feeler gauges you are not quite sure what you have, when have you picked the right thickness? So far, I have been using calipers, but I have also been experimenting with a completely touchless system and it is still evolving, still trying to perfect it!

[@normbarrows]

I've been playing since '79, and a hobbyist builder for 3 years with about 75 builds or mods completed. My builds are usually 25.5" scale length. I use Ernie Ball 8's on all my builds, except 12 string and baritone builds. For a 25.5 inch scale length running 8's, i shoot for 1.2 mm to 1.5mm action at the 24th fret and no relief in the neck.

[@fat-hand]

I have that gauge and found the spring also causes deflection when pressed onto a string - especially if not strung up to pitch. What I did was go in reverse: I depressed the string, then zeroed the gauge, and lifted thus measuring distance traveled in reverse. This also alleviated the need to press the hold button. Cool tool though and thanks for the great video.

[@HighlineGuitars]

Hold the guitar in the playing position and it won't deflect.

[@christopherhall5315]

I set up electrics as follows: At 1st fret Low E - 2/64", High E - 1/64". At 12th fret Low E - 5/64", High E 3/64". This seems to be a good spot that most of my clients prefer.

[@SethHolmes]

It looks like they modified a tire depth gauge with a custom plate to make it usable with a guitar. Absolutely brilliant. Looks very easy to use.

[@Fazman81]

For electrics I like anywhere from 1mm-1.5mm on the high E string and 1.35mm to 1.75mm on the low E string. Acoustics I like from 1.4mm-1.75mm on the High E and 1.75mm- 2.25mm on the Low E. I do repairs and build bajoquintos and now guitars here in Dallas, Texas.

[@christiang2194]

12th fret low E almost 2,0 mm, high E almost 1,5 mm. I use one of the string action gauges/rulers. I’m a player, setting up my own guitars. No measurement on 1st fret as I have no nut files to change anything also, I’m uncomfortable messing with the nut because it is a permanent adjustment when I screw up ;-) Reason: in my experience fret buzz causes loss of bass (dampening the fundamental string wave and only having higher harmonics), therefore I also have a fair amount of neck relief. As you said I also think it is imperative to make all measurements in playing position.

[@lyndelguitars9478]

For a typical Fender type of radius (7.5-9) I set up at .07 at the 12th fret and for a Gibson type radius (12 or so), .06. It's fairly low but not so low that it's hard to get your fingertips to grab the string as opposed to wanting to slide over the string for bends. I do a lot of bends.

[@gilmanoel]

Hi, I'm very obsessed with adjustments and details. I play a lot of legato stuff, so I like my guitars like this: Relief - none or .002 String Action - 1mm (12 fret) Radius - 12 or 17 Frets - Jescar 57110 Cheers!

[@rickknowlan8949]

I bought the LMI string height gauge. At first I found it too finicky, but I've found the method that lets me get repeatable measurements within .002" of variance. I have set up my Casino with .018" at the first fret on the low E, and .075" on the 12th fret. I'm running .048" at the 12th fret on the high e. I'll leave it with the new nut unglued for a couple of weeks to see how I like it. So far, no buzz, and I note that this might be too close, though the fret heights across the entire guitar are nearly perfect. Wonderfully, it doesn't sound out of tune playing chords with a mixture of fretted and open strings. Very easy to play.

[@WaS-td8qp]

What method are you using to get repeatable measurements? I'm not coming remotely close to anything repeatable.

[@h12366]

I use the fender spec, 020 + - 002 first fret and 1.6mm 17 fret all strings. Neck relief 010-012. Fender american stratocaster elite.

[@jpizzleforizzle]

1st fret: i aim for .016 12-17 (neck meets body): i make sure there's no high frets. Then set low and high E as low as it they go with no buzz or maybe a tiny bit (as long as its inaudible through an amp), then use a radius gauge and set the other 4 strings. I had a Dean Vendetta that was 2-3/64 and played amazingly. Its quick and dirty but it works for me.

[@odalayme]

4/64 low and 3.5/64. I love this action. Butta

[@daveferrell4462]

I usually set the neck relief at .000-.0005". (Bass to treble action) 1st fret electric and acoustic .022" - .012", 12 fret electric .060"-.040" acoustic .075" - .055"

[@darrencarillo7321]

Aloha Brother, I'm in the process of learning how to setup the action on my acoustic guitar. After watching countless videos on the subject, I bought the LMI Digital string height gauge because of your video! Thank you! Since I'm new to this, I didn't want to go the route of feeler gauges, or string height gauges, because I wanted to be as precise as possible. I'm no Luthier, but I wanted to share with you something that I think is even better than the LMI gauge. A digital nut slot gauge from stewmac or fretmax. Why do I think its better? Well first of all it can also double as a string height gauge, for neck relief, or string action at the 12th fret. What makes it better though, is the base of the digital nut slot gauge is much wider. I find that it is so much easier to operate because of it's wider base it doesn't rock as much as the LMI's narrow base, giving way to a more accurate reading. I bought the fretmax since it's less expensive. I don't even use the LMI anymore, and it's practically brand new. So if yours ever breaks... Mahalo, I hope you find some value in this comment, Darren.

[@Slutfi74]

I have been playing for quite a long time, I also actively mainatin my 10 electric guitars. I have refretted 2 of them, I've leveled, crowned and polished all of them. i have them all set at very minimal relief under .01"......1mm action at the 12th for the bass E, and .5mm @12 on the treble E. Using a tool like that, i have the analog (dial indicator)....makes setups very precise and easier to replicate consistently.

[@ourclarioncall]

Greetings from Scotland 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿 sounds like a real nice low action ! Can I ask what you set the string heights to at the 1st Fret ? Thanks

[@Slutfi74]

@@ourclarioncall i use a dial indicator tool to accurately set it. it's approx...5mm on the bass E and .3mm on the treble E.

[@ourclarioncall]

@@Slutfi74 thanks for the info 👍

[@THRobinson]

I sorta have that...$6CAD off ebay, digital tire tread depth gauge. Easy to modify especially with a 3D printer

[@Almonzo246]

The best action is: High E 12th fret 1.5mm and Low E 1.65 mm (or a little above the 1.5mm line if you dont have the scale) and of course truss rod at 0.25mm feeler gauge at the 8th fret. I like that setup because it lets my strings ring freely and it's easy to shred, best of both worlds.

[@jimtroeltsch5998]

This seems like a good guide. I like my strings to be able to ring freely as well, without buzzing too much, even if I put some force behind my strum/pick. For this reason I like a bit more relief in my neck than most people. Though I don't have much for tools except feeler gauges so I'm going to try this out tonight. Do you find it differs between different types of electric? Like say a classic fender strat versus a les Paul style electric?

[@curiousgeorge4608]

What about using a set of gage pins or blocks to measure string height? I have low vision so using the manual string height gauge is rather difficult. My thought is if the gage pin rolls under the string and the next bigger size sticks the the smaller gage pin is a pretty good measurement.

[@BatEatsMoth]

For 6-string bass, I play with the neck flat, and moving from B to C, my 12th fret action is set to 3mm, 2.75mm, 2.5mm, and the rest at 2.25mm. That's sufficiently low for my purposes. I tune to 430 instead of 440, so the strings at that action are buttery.

[@themaninthesuitcase]

I run my guitars at around 2mm - 1.5mm E-e at the 12th. This is about as low as I can reliably get with out unacceptable fret buzz. I usually have around .005-.010” of relief but all these numbers do change a tiny bit depending on the day and how accurate I can be. Feeler gauges for relief seems to be the biggest inaccuracy as the string moves a bit too easily.

[@gtr1963]

On both my electrics, i have my high E and low E at .030, .039 for G string, D string. I know thats stupid low, but thats where i like it and makes the guitar play so easy.

[@208414]

Wow, that is LOW action! You must play with a feather light touch.

[@gtr1963]

@@208414 i do. After 40 yrs of playing, my touch developed very lightly. At that height i can still dig under strings to bend notes(small fingers, hands). I cant go any lower or notes choke out.

[@garycraw9781]

At 12th fret I like 4.5 to 5/64" on Bass side and 3/64th" on Treble side

[@walterhambrick8705]

I haven't really check the 1st fret action. My Gretsch guitars are set to 4/64ths bass side and 3/64ths on the treble side. They seam fine to me. I also use 12's on my main Gretsch and 10 - 46 for my 12 string Gretsch. I don't do bends.

[@MarkRawling]

For .047 frets, 12th fret: high E 3.5/64, low E 4/64 (or maybe 4.5). 1st fret: almost 0 when held at 2nd fret. Relief set so that strings are easy to bend around the 7th fret which means a bit more relief than most people aim for. The right relief gives an almost constant action from around the 7th fret to the last fret, tapering up towards the nut for easy playing and good intonation near the nut. Any extra gap above the 1st fret will cause sharp fretted notes for sure. Straighter neck will either buzz or the action gets too high on the high frets. Action measured with 6" rule and light weight (plastic) 10x eye loupe, guitar in playing position.

[@chrisking6695]

The more relief add the higher the strings will be off the fretboard and if you add too much bow the higher frets will bend upwards resulting in more string buzz. You're right there's a sweet spot for every guitar where the action will be fairly even. But that's usually when the neck is fairly straight. More relief also gives the guitar intonation problems IMO. But I do seem to enjoy more relief myself. It makes bends spongier.

[@MarkRawling]

@@chrisking6695 The frets should bend up towards the bridge. Fall away is a complete myth. The correct shape for constant angle is a spiral that curls up toward the bridge. It's easy to prove this - if you extend the plane of the upper frets all the way to the bridge then you end up with a string 1/16 below the saddle. Clearly that's not ideal, it should be virtually touching the saddle and still have zero buzz. Again, fall away is a complete myth - all it does is worsen your action.

[@yaki_font]

I tend to set them as low ad they can go without any buzz. The most common measurements are 12 Fret High E 1.5 Low E 1.8 3rd Fret its just by feel

[@fireonhigh100]

same here but now i need to buy this,lol!

[@RonSteinPhotography]

How do you account for the gravity of the gauge probe, especially on the high E string? Did you check with feeler gauges to see if there was a discrepancy between the readings? Thanks!

[@HighlineGuitars]

I hold the guitar in the playing position so the gauge is horizontal rather than vertical.

[@angrytroll27]

My string action is.... .25 mm relief, 1.6mm on the bass and 1.4mm both measured at the 15th fret. I prefer the bass a little higher so a can hit a little harder and a little lower on the treble side for ease of playing any lower and ai cant bend notes comfortably

[@ianrose5505]

Hi 1st fret I tend to target 20 thou low E, 16 thou high E, 12 fret my repair set up average low E 1.7, high E 1.6,

[@waynechurchill7212]

4/64 bassside 3+ treble side 12 fret

[@petedazer3381]

I just replaced the nut on my tele with a Zero Glide and I set all of my string slots to .022” with 4/64 on all six at the 17th fret. It’s low enough for proper intonation and let’s me really play hard with no buzz or choking no matter where I bend them. That’s with about 0.008 to .012 of relief.

[@ronmorey3475]

Are you liking the Zero Glide? I’m thinking of putting one on my Strat. Also, was it fairly easy to install? Thank you in advance!

[@MiikeyLawless]

Honestly, whatever allows the B string to not slip under my fingers when bending the high E. That tends to change from guitar to guitar.

[@yoheff988]

The fretboard radius plays a major roll in the action setup, personally I don't like any radius smaller that 12". All my 14 guitars (at the 12th fret) are set to Low E 1.5 mm High E: 1.0mm When it comes to the action at the first fret; The nut should be viewed as a zero fret period therefore there is nothing to measure their.

[@Robert-Smith]

that is just a slightly modified tire tread depth gauge you can get for $13 I just bought a tire gauge.

[@syrup_drinker]

594 hollowbody 1st fret:- 6 22.5 5 19 4 14.5 3 13 2 13.5 1 13.5 12th fret:- 6 61 5 61 4 60.5 3 59 2 59 1 58

[@percynelson9032]

Is that measuring from the top of the string compared to measuring from underneath the string?

[@HighlineGuitars]

No, it measures the space between the bottom of the string and the top of the fret.

[@bjstein4242]

I am an E= 3/63 e= 2/64 guy.. (1.2mm / 0.8mm) for light touch ease of playing.. my frets i level myself with the greatest of care..(board radius 12-16) 1st action height is 0.014 thou or 0.35mm most all of my 24.75 scale guitars are there.. any guitar with rounder fingerboards get slightly higher action.. why work harder than you have to..

[@djb3545]

Great video! Unfortunately they no longer make that tool.

[@djb3545]

Back in stock. Never-mind! Excited to try it out.

[@drdfx159]

My method is highly inaccurate and empirical: on the first fret I want to feel the minimum force to fret the notes, so I go as low as possible without fretbuzz. I only eyeball the neck relief to about 0.5mm (+/- 0.2mm, but rather on the lower side) at the 7-8 fret when the string is pressed down on the first fret and the one where the neck meets the body. Then I set the string height to where I can bend at the 12-14 frets so, that about the middle of my fingertips press against the neighbouring string (so the neighbouring string neither slips under my fingertips, nor under my nail, let alone over my nail). I know it sounds quite inaccurate, but this is how I usually feel alright with my guitars. Btw. I'm a player adjusting and servicing my own guitars whenever possible and not a luthier or professional guitar tech.

[@1980glamfan]

I’d love to shoot for 1mm high e and 1.5mm low e , but usually wind up at 1.7 high and 2 low. The guitars just sound better. It’s a hard toss up between ultra low action and tone. I fight it daily.

[@chrisking6695]

That's why I got the digital gauge. I like it at about 1.2mm high e and 1.5mm low E but on most guitars that means buzz fest unless I play with a really soft touch. And even then the sustain isn't as good as with the strings sitting higher than that. The gauge should allow me to dial in a buzz free action without my fingertips noticing much of a difference. What i mean is that let's say 1.2mm buzzes but 1.234 doesn't. You'll never dial in 1.234 with a standard string height gauge unless you have the eyes of a hawk. Funny story, my neck on my PRS moved quiet a bit due to humidity but I didn't eben realize it. It just started to sing and the string tension felt perfect. Two days ago I decided to measure and turns out the action was at about 2mm for the Low E and 1.5 for the high E. So I adjusted the neck back to where it was and all the sustain is gone but it isn't any easier to play either. Well maybe legato is easier but that's about it. I'm hoping to dial in a string height that is as close to the feel of low action as possible but with the sustain of medium action and that's why I got the gauge. It'll be here on Friday. Let's hope it'll work out

[@BCThunderthud]

Was just checking this out and it seems LMI has gone out of business and their site's been taken over by Stewmac. Kind of a drag there's one less competitor.

[@bigsmitty812]

.060”

[@WaS-td8qp]

I've tried to use this gauge over & over again & have not once been able to get a repeatable reading. It doesn't matter what string, how I hold the guitar. As soon as I position the gauge, hit zero, the readout starts jumping around to different readings since it's impossible to hold it perfectly steady, especially when you are trying to press the zero (or any other) button. I push the plunger down & get a reading but it varies so much for 1 try to the next I don't see how this thing is ever remotely useful.

[@HighlineGuitars]

Stewmac makes one and I’m curious to see if it is easier to use. I haven’t had as much trouble as you, but I can understand why you and others would. You have to hold it just right and that isn’t easy to do.

[@WaS-td8qp]

@@HighlineGuitars Yeah, holding both the guitar & the gauge perfectly still while you are trying to push the zero button & then pushing the plunger down with out it losing the zero readout is near impossible, at least for me so far.

[@TeacherAn]

I mostly build guitars. The measurements I strive for are: at the first fret, the least amount of daylight between the top of the fret and the bottom of all strings when pressed at the third fret; at the twelve fret, 4/64 on the low E and 3/64--4/64 on the high E with strings unfretted. No particular reasons. I just settled on this procedure.

[@leoarjuncrasto]

Does this affect compound radius guitars? Say a 12 to 16 inch?

[@TeacherAn]

@@leoarjuncrasto I don't see how it would. I'd start with manufacturer's specs then work down from there if lower action is wanted and there is no string buzz.

[@leoarjuncrasto]

@@TeacherAn thanks for the quick response ❤️

[@curtrod]

5:07

[@erikblackburn3691]

I have been playing for 45 years and dealing with the sweet spot which I can tell you it is having the tone to match professional vocals the best vocals. Being seen in vocal tone to find that area with the Guitar and having good playing all the way up the neck especially the octave is at the saddle height it has got to be high enough to be able to play without trouble and speed 5/64 to last frett 5 and a half 64s.. Top nut 2/64 across in 64s but just under 2/64 but not to much for the right fell (not high) or playing seems to low...Relief I find the final tone adjustment tighten the rod till fret buss on the first fret and tink by the smallest amount on the rod until the fret buss stops play especially with bends up the neck and see where it plays with the vocal tone is found in the tones played 2 or 3 smallest increments on the rod should be close . I have measured it afterwards with capo the first fret and depressing the last fret on the 6 string and measuring at the 8 fret it is a tight if not one that raised the string unnoticeable 10 thousands. Sound as the voice raises form the south to north just as they say lava solidifies with it axis to north not only that if your strings are to high off the fret it should be you notice it should be playing with a white tone to explain that is night they play with beening able to see they sound with the noticeable tone of white light if right it should be on the dark side at 10 thousands the light changes to white going higher and black going lower or tight on the 10 thousands the sweet spot is on the dark side. That 10 thousands spot can make you or break you its where the light goes white high or black or dark going tight or lower. The dark side is where the sweet spot is. Light is energy as well as darkness it's in the law of nature. It affects your tone the white side is where you can hate yourself and guitar when playing fast lead tones it causes them to distort and the first sign is sounding muddy the worse is sounding dirty. You can not play or hear your tones play out right, get it on the dark side and fine you have a guitar that can play for you. Another thing is you should be able to measure at the fifth fret sixth string height open no capo or else should measure at the octave right about the same as the fifth fret then the to necks should in to tone likeness instead of just intonation being right but yes, the octave being in a similar playing action as the lower neck. This is balance between the lower neck and the octave. Hope this helps you work on this I think you will understand the sweet spot and now a band balances between the vocals and each instruments have to balance with a person vocal. If it dose not the vocalist will notice and so will you.

[@TheVINMAN531]

4/64 AT THE SEVENTEENTH FRET

[@DavidRavenMoon]

“Height” doesn’t end in “th” 😃 rhymes with “right” and “fight.”

[@skeletron77]

“Heighth is a colloquial variant of height formed by analogy with similar measurement terms such as length, breadth, width, and depth, which end in th.”

[@DavidRavenMoon]

@@skeletron77 No, it’s an mis pronunciation.

[@smokestacklightning]

Nope, feeler gauges are elegant and amazing and have been for 100+ years. Hyper consumption.

[@HighlineGuitars]

Why did you watch this video? Are you a troll?

[@adhaskym.a9536]

Made in China? Same as the knock-offs?

[@bobbys4327]

I cannot believe people buy these tools!

[@HighlineGuitars]

Believe it!