The Most Dangerous Move in Rock Climbing - Dynology

[@wratboy]

you are correct about the radiologist being the xray people 😊

[@Greesher]

Legend for confirming

[@avrilbray5194]

Yes but radiologists also do CAT scans and MRI (source: my family owns 5 radiologist centers)

[@HVjugo]

I'm still recovering from an ankle fracture, so yeah, this can happen in bouldering even with static moves :X Much like the guy in the first video, I had to get surgery and now have over 15 nails in my leg. I'm now way past the danger zone and I'm doing rehab, but it's going to take a while until I can go back to the gym and start sending projects as I used to, but I'll do it eventually. Always be careful while climbing, I saw a video of a guy nearly amputating his leg due to a bad fall doing a dyno that was WAY too high. Safety first guys, thanks for the great video!

[@guest1754]

I, too, have sprained my ankle while static climbing. Could not walk for 2 months. started PT 9 months after the injury. Not really sure what happened because I didn't go to the doctor and get it diagnosed, but it took me 18-24 months to fully recover. I only get occasional welling but no pain, so there's that. Hopefully, you'll have a speedier recovery than I did.

[@Greesher]

@@guest1754Wow. Just wow. That’s absolutely insane. It’s crazy that you can think you’re being so careful, but yet still anything can happen. I saw someone slip right off a climb holding his ankle for dear life. Said it was excruciating. Wonder if he also fractured his ankle. Anyway, glad you recovered. Hope OC recovers, too.

[@snarkk5410]

i sprained my anckle as well, and i didnt climb for about 3 months or 2,i hate it when the walls are too high ,makes the fall far more dangerous

[@HVjugo]

@@guest1754 in my case I heard a big crack, and my ankle was not in its natural position, so it was clearly broken, but 2 months without walking sounds severe, I hope you fully recover from whatever valiente, I'm hoping I can do that too

[@gamertron0882]

Yikes man, I’m the guy in the video and I definitely feel you but for me I regret nothing and am hoping to get back at it as soon as I can

[@Woolly_Mammut]

Xray tech takes the pics and a radiologist reads them. Plantar and dorsiflexion is forward and backward, inversion and eversion is side to side. Looks like a tib/fib fracture, you can say ankle or lower leg is fine 👍

[@perplexedon9834]

Med student and physiotherapist here: -yes, radiologists are the doctors who look at X rays and describe the findings. Other relevant specialists include Orthopaedic surgeons, who would have installed the plates, and physiotherapists who would manage ongoing rehab -It looks like he has a Weber B lateral malleolus fracture and maybe a spiral fracture of the distal shaft of the tibia. It's hard to tell from just the one view. The basic summary is that the ankle is moderately fucked, and the leg is really fucked. 4-6 months to fully heal, but probably no permanent issues if they stick to their rehab and don't overload it while it's healing. They'll be walking without a moon boot or crutches by about 3 months. -That isn't a normal movement, so the normal plantar flexion (standing on toes) and dorsiflexion (other way) terms don't describe it. I'd probably call it a varus (tilted inwards) internally rotated deformity. There is a normal movement roughly in that direction called inversion, but he's moved about 4x as far as you are supposed to be able to

[@gamertron0882]

Hi I’m OP and that sounds about right to me, although both the tibia and fibula are broken (I only posted one angle of the X-rays but it’s more obvious from the side)

[@perplexedon9834]

@@gamertron0882 yep, the lateral malleolus is the sticky out bit of the end of the fibula. Hope you recover well!

[@clean0420]

The yellow bicep curl dyno at 14:10 is at my local gym. It was set as part of a comp and therefore was not given a grade. I also did the climb and would agree that it is around V5. There's actually a new double dyno in that same spot on the wall. Maybe I should post it on the subreddit and let you take a guess at the grade :)

[@darina4885]

Broke my ankle jumping from an overhang - didn't even realise what went wrong (been climbing for only 3 months at that point). Two bones broken, also had to get a surgery, got quite a bit of metal in the ankle now, 2 months in cast. Been on the wall within 4,5 months after the accident, but only roped climbing for me now - I tried bouldering and was scared shitless. Hopefully he will recover completely! I did, except for the fact that I feel the need to tell this story to every new person I meet and even show them photos of the break....

[@raemoondo]

thanks for sharing my 360! sorry bout the flair, i wanted ppl to discuss whether it was 360 or not , but now i know!

[@juglover3000]

Climbing injuries are so scary, I’ve been climbing on a team for just under a year now and the thing that has caused most team kids to leave is injuries. I don’t dyno much and when I crimp too hard and my hands hurt I try to stop, I really want to avoid climbing injuries as much as possible. Anyone with climbing-prohibiting injuries rn I hope you heal up and get back in the gym soon

[@gamertron0882]

So I’m the guy from the first clip and I just wanna point out that I regret nothing and would absolutely try the move again if I could. You obviously should be afraid to get hurt but if you learn and get comfortable with just going for the move and falling or bailing safely then we’ll over 99% of the time you will be fine. For me I was maybe a tad ambitious and just got really really unlucky. You will definitely get more comfortable with it with time as you climb more and even if something does happen you will heal and learn from it

[@juglover3000]

@@gamertron0882 your right, I have commitment issues when it comes to climbing 😭😭

[@gamertron0882]

@@juglover3000 honestly same lol 😂

[@harrisonfalls]

F23 at 6:08 refers to the climb number for a competition. F is for female, 23 is the number assignment. If you're in a comp you will be assigned different climbs based on age, category, etc and you use those numbers to identify them. It does not represent difficulty whatsoever

[@DragonSlayerBrick]

I just broke my fibula in 2 places four days ago missing a dead point and falling at a bad angle. I'm very used to falling so I'd never thought this would happen to me. Always fall safely guys.

[@gamertron0882]

Yikes, hope you heal fast. Also a lot of the time you just get unlucky, like for me (I’m the guy in the first clip) I just got flung off the wall and there wasn’t much I could do but hope and 99% of the time it’s fine but occasionally you just get unlucky

[@slightlylessthanjewish]

In August 2023 I was hit on my motorcycle by a Toyota Tacoma and woke up a month later. Broke my neck in three places, was partially beheaded, hip, shattered, left femur, shattered, and filled with a metal rod, three surgeries and left knee, two surgeries and right knee, reconstructive surgery on right wrist. I’m supposed to be in a wheelchair for five more months but today I finally was able to dyno (prob v2 easy shit tbh) and do a V4 overhang which isn’t that impressive except for the fact that I have nerve damage and can’t feel half of my appendages if you want photos submissions to prove, let me know, love the channel.

[@zanethornton7502]

had something similar, takes like a year to get back to normal. Good luck young fella.

[@criley0007]

tore/sprained some ligaments/tendons on the ulnar side of my wrist after going for a dyno in july and i'm still out for it :/ climbing injuries suck

[@harrisonsmith6687]

Wow that coordinated dyno was crazy

[@George_Climbs]

That first clip has encouraged me not to ever try any more dynos. Ever. Of any sort. Like, ever. 😅

[@Greesher]

Real honestly You can’t argue with that 😂😂😂

[@zombieraccoon1653]

Nah, just don't land sideways

[@mikeloury69]

Toughen up princess

[@George_Climbs]

@@zombieraccoon1653 Good plan!

[@George_Climbs]

@@mikeloury69 Well, I'm still carrying about 10kg more than I should be so still taking it steady... there's tough and there's stupid.

[@jakeclimbs3073]

for USA climbing comps you get a score card and on it are stuff like f23 its to help people find their routes

[@Vaan4756346]

I nearly broke my ankle too on just an open door and falling from the wall... Dynamic movements are the most dangerous in climbing.

[@jonnes__4657]

Brutal fall.... 😱😱 He was lucky, only the ankle. .

[@gamertron0882]

Ya lol, I just got really unlucky with how my foot landed

[@gaiaiulia]

I'm terrified of dynos. I'd need full body armour

[@T-cz6qf]

at the gym waiting for the swelling in my ankle to go down so i can get a taxi home, watching this video

[@SophiaCorso]

I torn two ligaments in my ankle recently, that sucks. There are exercises to teach the feed to snap back when twisting the ankles. From now on, I will absolutely do this before climbing :-)

[@EpicWhaleNoises]

Radiologists are doctors who read all radiological images. So x-rays, CT scans, and stuff like that.

[@Climbingismyhome]

It is FJ3 it stands for female junior number three! 😊

[@krooked_j6120]

That looks like extreme or whatever its called in South Miami, or The Edge, or whatever they renamed it. That's a tough injury, nice vid

[@gamertron0882]

If your talking about the gym in the first clip it’s Vertical Rock in northern Virginia

[@Mrperson662]

It’s been taken down but there was a video on instagram of a dude who took a normal fall in a gym and his ankle literally broke in half and split open, with just a bit of skin and tendon holding it together. It was the gnarliest shit I’ve ever seen.

[@perplexedon9834]

Dude must have had some kind of issue affecting his bone density or like a bone tumour or something. Legs don't just break that lmao

[@HVjugo]

@@perplexedon9834 nah, it was a really dangerous dyno, it required a big swing and it was really high, the fall was tremendous

[@perplexedon9834]

@@HVjugo in the video I agree, I was referring to the commenters example of someone taking a normal looking fall

[@RocketPods]

North Mass Boulder is the gym in Indianapolis you’re talking about 🙏🏻 It’s my main gym brotha love your videos

[@abacpolo7713]

Broke my ACL 2 years ago falling from a dyno ✌

[@Jacobs_Lowe]

15:37 best gym in the world

[@logankennedy7109]

The radiologist but had me dead😂

[@k0uk0uvagia]

I broke my ankle in multiple places and completely tore a ligament with a basic static fall on a slab, where my foot hit a big volume on the way down. 2 months later I’m only just starting to walk again and looking at a few more months of rehab to make a full recovery hopefully. I may never regain the full range of motion though. Every time I see clips of climbers falling on slabs with big volumes below them I hurt a little 😬

[@Future____]

I saw a clip like the first one but the guys fool almost came off, like tore past the bone

[@Greesher]

21:34 this method climbing. It’s in a basement of a building so there’s a decent amount of dust lol. Not asbestos though, I’ve asked the owners 😂😂😂

[@Biscuit_proper]

One of the best climbers who work at my local gym fell from a simple warm up climb and broke his femur. Freak accident. Landed weirdly (cross legged I think) and snapped the hardest bone in the human body

[@eduardovernier7628]

you could probably use a chrome extension like replacer that substitutes any V0/V1/Vn text into Vx or (redacted) so you could still guess the grade when people don't hide it

[@bowenkeller1836]

I tore the ligaments and tendons and such in my knee from a dyno high up. Be careful out there! (P.S. I still boulder all the time)

[@chicken29843]

Did you get surgery or did you just do like muscle strengthening in the surrounding area?

[@bowenkeller1836]

@@chicken29843 major surgery.

[@anubisiris2270]

Im about to start back at work next week after being off for 3.5 months after I fell off a outdoor boulder over a year ago lol multiple fractures in the bottom of my ankle and torn 2 ligaments and had to get some cartilage removed as well in the end. they miss diagnosed me a year ago when it happened and said it was just a couple of fractures and was told to just put up with the pain and it will heal, then start of this year the pain got too intense and went to a different expert a finally got surgery and im on the mend. The climb I fell off was 5m high and I had spotters but the guy that I fell in front of got scared when I fell and just stood back and let me hit the rock in front of him instead of giving me a little push to land on the pads, but at least one foot hit the pads so only injured one foot :) its all part of the learning experience called life. cant wait to get back on that climb and send it

[@drkwrk5229]

Had broken ankle june 2023 from frigging biking..... booo! And still bouldering falls are scary as shit!

[@ShoppingEagle13]

We can think of the rectangle rectangle as an open bible for the church! Also a very cool climbing gym in an old church called Brimstone Boulders in Hood River, OR! Someone check it out!

[@dannys7773]

20:22 i am pretty sure this is from my gym in Prague :D

[@beefsquatchable]

11:35 I prefer dynovalhala, the hold died honourably in battle and can now cross the rainbow bridge.

[@tomriddle2257]

About buying the church: It really depends on the city or village. So any guess can be correct. Imagine that kind of real estate in NYC center. Rather 100 Million I guess. 😅

[@diethylmalonate]

3:16 is that North Mass Boulder? I've been there, it's a nice place

[@stephaniep4590]

This reminds me why I don’t boulder…I just can’t fall safely onto the pad and will injure myself.

[@gamertron0882]

THATS ME IN THE FIRST CLIP! MOM IM FAMOUS

[@hmm531]

That’s my boy!!!

[@maximejeanpierre922]

I've also broke my ankle doing bouldering. It's been 8 month, and I have still not yet recovered. Pain on regular basis even if I walk again...

[@abigailvanr]

Opposite of plantar flexion is dorsiflexion.

[@tanguylaloy8155]

diagnostic radiologist look at radio, CT, RMN all day

[@timreizin9854]

I didn't put a flair because I wasn't sure and didn't want to put it wrong :(

[@biomorphic]

I do not dyno dangerous dyno moves. I skip the problem, and I work on a different one. I am too old to fuck up my bones. I already used all my life points.

[@gamertron0882]

It was a game of add on so more dicking around than anything lol, also I regret nothing and would do it again tbh

[@kofokss]

I love dynos!!

[@Emil_-oh4xf]

He is more talking about grading everything V5, than actually grading boulders V5

[@randomz324]

Can you make a video about the props you have in the background?

[@bhavesh4726]

I saw Sean do this live

[@seanrhm]

No you didn’t 🤨

[@qotsa1234]

White tape is the hardest in my gym.. v12/13

[@sachabk8579]

Same

[@olivera9001]

For everyone wondering here’s what really happened to his ankle See more…

[@AdamL_18]

thank you thats very insightful

[@TheGumbyGuy]

I didn't fall for that you didn't do it right.

[@gamertron0882]

My ankle got absolutely folded that’s what happened 😂

[@Man-With-A-Camera]

Yo was it north mass Boulder you went to ? I’m form Indianapolis @climbingstuff

[@Man-With-A-Camera]

Nevermind I can see it was north mass boulder @ 4:08

[@MSHNKTRL]

Radiologists study radios, DUH!

[@Trenton-fh9nb]

hi im the kid next door

[@skymoo5094]

never doing a dyno again thanks

[@gamertron0882]

Nahhh I would try that move again without hesitation if I could (I’m the OP btw)

[@frozenturtl827]

Spooky

[@gamertron0882]

Spoopy

[@raemoondo]

dumb dyno on the wayyy

[@johnrobb9408]

Hmm....gym climbing dangers. Dynoists? Is that a word?

[@frizy9969]

its what happens when you dont run or train legs .... fragile

[@BoboBish]

For how important falling is in climbing, it's not covered nearly enough or at all. In BJJ, we practice falling every single class, and we only fall from standing height. In climbing, you cover it once during your noob introduction and that's it. Shameful.

[@WomF06]

My local gym serves pints and they always make sure you're finished climbing when you order a drink. Like bro my hands are red raw, my feet look like pink croissants, and I'm covered in enough chalk and sweat to create a fine paste. Dafuq you think

[@the6sides]

Hey i actually used to climb at that gym in the first video and i happen to know that guy! Some background for people wondering: Obviously a dyno like that being so high off the ground is going to be pretty high risk so it may have been kinda silly to be doing that, but also that gym has a higher rate of fractured ankles than anywhere else I've ever been. In the video you can see there are orange mats on top of the padded flooring. The floors were meant for lead climbing, so not as soft or as impact-absorbant as mats you normally see in bouldering gyms. However I'm also not so sure those 1 foot thick orange pads are meant for bouldering either. They're ether super old and way too soft and prone to causing twisted ankles from high falls or they're the new ones bought about 2 years ago that are still super stiff and probably worse than just landing on the gray slighlty padded floor. Also those orange pads are only 8'x16' (I'm pretty sure thats the size anyway) and dont connect to each other in anyway so it's really easy to fall and get a foot stuck between them. I actually injured my ankle from about a 4 foot fall this way a couple years ago. Moral of the story, I dont think the guy in the video is entirely at fault, but you should defintely be aware of the danger and risk of the moves you're doing. You should also always be aware of the safety of your fall zone, even gyms aren't completely safe, and learn how to bail safely in the middle of high-commitment moves if you've determined you wont send it on that go.

[@gamertron0882]

Hi so I am the guy in the video and I’m not sure if I believe you that you know the gym because the entire gym has a layer of grey foam (in both the ropes areas and boulder area) that is for lead falls but the orange pads are made for bouldering and while one or two of them are slightly harder than what you might find in some gyms they definitely do the job, especially with a second grey foam layer underneath. Also I just got really really unlucky with the way my foot landed on the mat and a softer mat wouldn’t have done much because it wasn’t the force of the impact but the way my foot landed under me with me coming down on top of it. If you can tell me the name of the gym or at least a general idea of where it is then I might believe you (and if I do know you sorry I’m just a bit skeptical) Edit: so I just reread it and noticed that you did point out the grey mat and that the mats were replaced around 2 years ago so scratch that lol. My question is about how you said the gym has a high rate for fractured ankles, because I have been climbing there for 7 years and the only injury from someone I know personally that occurred in the gym was a broken arm. I’m not saying it doesn’t have a slightly higher rate but I’m just curious if that’s your genuine experience cause I’ve never heard anyone talk about it being a more than average danger gym

[@ancientgeneral2445]

To add the spoiler, sandwich your text with >! and !< 🫡

[@Greesher]

Tysm