The Most Important Thing for Knife Sharpening - Raising a Burr - Work Sharp Cuts

[@grantwitt4962]

When are different stones coming for the precision adjust

[@wildairsoft1]

October 1st

[@NaveenSurya]

Straight to the point! Thanks!!

[@aydencook03]

How do you ensure that you're getting even wear on both sides of the blade? One side may raise a burr quicker than the other, and thus the apex will be shifted away from the center.

[@goldfinchui1432]

I'm having the same struggle, sharpening is harder than I thought haha

[@manolocomanoloco7451]

if one side raises a burr quicker than the other side, it might be that the knife hasnt formed an apex yet or that it was not centered or one side was not ground enough before, it may be that it has an assymetrical edge (unintentionally or intentionally)

[@star-lord3079]

Very informative! Thanks man!

[@andrewsotnikov5680]

Great explanation! Thanks! As I understand, raising the burr initial stage for making knife sharpen if's a dull?

[@norcalbowhunter3264]

The important thing to make sure you’re doing is getting an even apex on your blade. A bur is a good way to ensure you’ve apexed an edge, but you can create an uneven apex if you’re just hacking away and don’t understand what you’re doing. There’s ways to get a good even blade angle without making a bur but it is extremely hard to do. I think people put too much emphasis on creating a bur and don’t actually understand why they’re doing it so they create wonky uneven edges. Creating a bur for the sake of creating a bur should never be your goal. Your goal should be creating an even edge on each side and you can USE a bur to tell when you’ve apexed it, but it shouldn’t be your goal.

[@shaolindreams]

Definitely need to take into consideration the quality of steel being used... I got a brand new sharpening system and i tried to do my Japanese chef knives........ it took many hours over a few days to get them as sharp as i wanted. They are extremely tough steel, as i tried a cheap generic knife and it took about 10 minutes to get the same result.

[@paultondolojr9432]

He said that though

[@amalekited]

I’m facing the same problem. What stones do you use for each step? My lowest is a diamond #400 and I’m considering buying something courser…

[@shaolindreams]

@@amalekited Sorry man i cant remember now.. Just the 3 stones that came with the kit. I'm thinking of getting the Ken Onion machine now. It was great for polishing though with a very mirror like edge but i need something much quicker.

[@cwsmith17]

Great topic and explanation

[@TheBudgetguy_K.T]

Never even knew about a burr but I always kept my blades sharp so is a burr really that important?

[@harisyoung4110]

Its only important when reprofiling with lower grit stone.. you wont feel a burr with a higher than 1500 grit stone.. i only strop my blade on leather and diamond paste if it a bit dull and it get back to paper slicing sharp. only use a stone when there is a edge roll or chipping occur.

[@TheBudgetguy_K.T]

@@harisyoung4110 love strops and as of three days ago I was reprofiling a set of kitchen knives and finally understood why I never felt a burr I to usually hone an strop

[@einherjarblackmetaldoommet2922]

That made a lot of sence! Thanks!

[@Novictus]

Holy fuck the amount of videos I have seen that say to raise a burr, without ever explaining what that is, is so fucking astoundingly high. If you are making a tutorial video. You should probably make it like this guy. Either show what you mean or use common nomenclature.

[@blackbeard0074]

I'm confused on how u get a burr on one side if ur sharpening both sides?

[@WorkSharpOutdoor]

Sharpen one side of the blade until a burr is formed along the entire edge. Then repeat the process on the opposite side and form a burr. This will ensure you create a new apex on the edge of your knife.

[@igrowwearyofthisworld7369]

@@WorkSharpOutdoor So correct me if I'm wrong, but raising a burr on one side automatically removes the one on the other side, right? So basically if you are done with one side, grind the other and then feel a burr on the opposite side of where the first one appeared on (which is now gone), then you're good to go for polishing? Or do you carefully grind the first side again until the new burr is gone also, then polish? Absolute amateur here, I barely have an understanding of it. But at least my first attempt resulted in a sharp knife =)

[@alkishararis9347]

Nice!🤟👍🔪

[@Superbus753]

Kitchen knives at 20 degrees pers side??? Thats to thick of an edge. I would advise a 15 degrees per side for finer cutting. Means for Kitchen and smaller edc

[@amalekited]

I’m just parroting but they say 20 is best for most kitchen steels. 15 will dull faster and chip more deeply. Expensive super steels can maintain a 15, but this doesn’t include most knives. Even on a super steel (VG10, Aogami S, etc), 20 would last longer between sharpenings. It’s a trade off.

[@Yellwolf]

Question? Not related so to speak? I noticed you move the sharp edge “into the stone”. Your products are the best for sharpening by miles to no doubt and I must say that as I don’t know what my answer may be and my intentions are not to sway anyone away from worksharp. That being true my question is. If working on a shape edge like a knife… using a motorized stone or strophe… can I get a burr if I trail the edge into the machine rather than point my sharp blade face into it? Why do I ask this. I find if I enter the motorized stone or strophe with the sharp edge that it may bite hard into it and rip or catch the knife out of my hand or holder. I have demonstrated to my family if they use a motorized sharpening to only trail the area for that reason. More or less maybe you can address the “safety” in how to use the area the knife enters in a motorized stone or straps. Please forgive me if I wrong and tell me so. And again your products are a revelation . In many ways the best. Thanks

[@ramonade_knives]

You can sharpen any knife both ways. Edge leading (into the stone) or edge trailing. Traditional japanese sharpeners usually go edge trailing, I do it too most of the time. On a motorized sharpener, i would go edge trailing because you indeed are right. You'll definitely break smth going edge leading, one day or another ^^

[@harisyoung4110]

Their ken onion work sharp belt sharpener also operate on one way, "blade away from the rotation".. you will damage the belt sander or the knife if facing it toward to the rotation.. the burr still occur no matter where the blade is facing.

[@billn2421]

When are you gonna restock the hat you're wearing?