The Most UNDERRATED Climbing Skill (3 Steps to Improve High Feet, Open Hip Mobility)

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// TIMESTAMPS //
Intro & Context (00:00)
Real World Examples (00:34)
Video Overview (00:51)
Why This is Important -- Low vs High Feet Example (01:15)
Part 1: Stretching (02:05)
Part 2: Muscle Activation (06:31)
Part 3: Strengething -- On the Wall (08:33)
Part 4: When to Do These Exercises (09:20)
Outro & Bloopers (09:57)
// SHOW NOTES //
INTRODUCTION
Foot technique and lower extremity mobility can make or break your ability to send a climb. Have you ever seen someone struggle on a climb that is way below their strength level simply because they're unable to achieve a certain position with their foot? Or, do you find yourself standing there in jealousy while you watch someone with amazing hip mobility do beta you could never even dream of? Well, set that jealousy aside, and focus on this video as we go through a 3 part system to improve your high foot technique.
In this video, we will go through a three step process (that can be trained quite easily) that will improve your high foot technique which may make or break your ability to send a climb! We will cover both off AND on the wall drills to make sure you can incorporate your training with your climbing.
Remember, developing good forwork is essential if you want to progress in climbing. So if that’s something you're into, which you obviously are because you’re here on our channel, then let’s get into it!
Remember that all this information and more is written out on the show notes on our website for your convenience!
PART I: STRETCHING
Why Stretching?
First…. We have to stretch!
Stretching is a huuuuge part of this process. If we don’t have the range of motion or mobility needed to perform the skill we want to do, we are pretty much screwed right out of the gate. Stretching will improve that mobility and increase our success with the subsequent drills. I’m going to recommend 3 different stretches that will help improve our hip flexion and abduction ability. These will help us get our feet higher and higher, while also allowing us to keep our hips closer to the wall.
Note: some of these stretches may be easier than others. Also, you may find 1 or 2 of the stretches to be more necessary for you than the others. It’s OK to focus on the ones you find more restrictive, but it can be beneficial to still perform all 3 stretches.
Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
www.hoopersbeta.com/library/3...
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#climbingtraining #trainclimbsendrepeat #physicaltherapy

[@HoopersBeta]

Hi fam! What's the most underrated climbing skill in your guys' opinion?

[@hatefulmonday]

For me that would be trying hard =) I mean this is a skill and nearly everybody I know just don't push themselve =P

[@jobro296]

Confidence/trust in yourself and your materials

[@BoulderingHighlights]

this! and knowing how long to rest between attempts lol

[@dunavanjanzen-morris5245]

Love the video! Definitely going to try this routine. Could you also do a video for climbing specific tension in a square to the wall position on steep terrain, 30-45 degrees? I find I train my "core" and legs, but this doesn't transfer over very well to keeping tension, on small, steep foot holds. Thank you!!

[@ThinkingThomasNotions]

...Perhaps "contact strength", or the capacity to acquire stable control of a hold dynamically approached, especially where that is a sloper. It seems that colloquially the campus board is what is recommended to train this, but I wonder what your thoughts are?

[@cpdavis1]

Just to say that I've been doing these exercises for around 6 months now and honestly, I've never thought that my hips would feel so different. Thank you!

[@HoopersBeta]

Awesome!! Thanks for posting the feedback. Happy it's working :)

[@khakicam5400]

Me too. I used to feel a clear upper limit for high feet as tightness in my hip flexors but I've noticed that's disappeared with regular hip mobility work.

[@GeekClimber]

Is this our first time seeing you climbing in a gym? Great video as always!

[@HoopersBeta]

Hah it might be! Since the Pandemic, I would definitely call myself an outdoor climber :) And thank you!

[@swazymoto4343]

As a heavier man with two knee surgeries in the past. This helps me so much! Can't wait to hit the gym to try this stuff out.

[@analiselimm774]

Great video as always! Love all your tips, so helpful

[@Jo3sX]

Thanks Hooper! I've been doing these stretches since you released the video as a novice climber and the difference on the wall is night and day even after that short period of stretching regularly. Really hope this channel blows up soon, as a new climber looking to start strong and avoid injury, this content is gold and corrects some of the bro science that you're never quite sure whether to believe or not.

[@HoopersBeta]

That's awesome! Thanks for the comment, Joel. Happy to hear it has helped. Thanks for following along!

[@MiguelClimbs]

Honestly, since starting a yoga routine earlier this year, my body awareness is at it's peak. Working on my hip mobility is one of the best things that I've done for my climbing. Thanks for the beta!

[@stefanwossner2007]

You should have way more subscribers. One of the best climbing related channels! Thanks for the great content that always comes at the right time ;-)

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you! Thankful for such a great community

[@ianbrannan9608]

This is very good. Simple yet informative. It is things that I have been doing but you are able to explain in more depth.

[@tonimartin681]

Great post... as usual 👏👏👏. Thanks Hooper!!!

[@theotaaku]

Great video. I noticed limitations in that area before and made some progress already but I will definitely implement these in my workout. Getting a climb done in control is just so much more rewarding in my opinion then getting up there somehow.. ;)

[@NWRinehart]

Love this. Love ya'll.

[@maryanc8753]

These exercise recommendations are super helpful! Plus the fact that it's also accesible on your website in text format is a biiiiiig plus! Thanks so much!

[@HoopersBeta]

Awesome! Thanks for the comment. I'm always curious how helpful the show notes are to people so your feedback is appreciated!

[@LittleMur410]

The segmentation of your videos is unreal, really appreciate it

[@gpn962]

Super helpful. Thanks!

[@languagefreeassangeteacher5338]

Great, I will try this out. Thanks!

[@GoodLuck-rh8tb]

This is exactly what I need, thank you!!!

[@jean-frustre8594]

Thank you Mr. Hooper's Really helpfull in a good way ! 😃

[@9tao9]

Great video. Being a tall climber this will be very helpful

[@deez_gainz]

Awesome, i was looking for that!

[@hardlyart]

This really helped me, thanks!

[@MrMosherMosher]

Super instructive! Thanks for all the work you put in your videos! #GoViralAlready

[@ken6260]

Thank you for the vid ❤️👍🏻

[@CharlieSimsYT]

Amazing! Thank you - been looking for a good pre-climb warm-up and stretch especially for my legs as I tend to be quite stiff here! Great video

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you! Glad you found it to be useful

[@linalisdawati702]

Super helpful. Thank you!! Any chance you could do a similar video for drop knee mobility? 🙏🏻

[@gaiaiulia]

Great video and love the outtakes too!

[@HoopersBeta]

I miss the outtakes! Those are always fun :)

[@TroutMaskReplicaa]

Climbing wall Hooper. What we've been waiting for!

[@allezvenga7617]

Thanks for your sharing

[@googoogjoob7]

So glad I found your channel and a ton of thanks for including the bloopers!

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad you found us as well! Haha the bloopers are always fun :)

[@BoulderingHighlights]

time to bust out the yoga mat really informative thanks :)

[@rockstarjazzcat]

This is great! Thank you. Kind regards, Daniel

[@bjrn6379]

How is it that everytime I have climbing related questions and concerns, you guys release a video about it the same week? Awesome video, thanks!

[@slavadabadoo]

I know it's already been said in a few forms but: Hooper's Beta is low key thee best KZbin channel for climbers! I took me a lil while to realize but now I'm totally hooked on this channel! Such high-level information and several levels above any other instructional/informational climbing channels

[@sarahwinters5321]

Cracking good tips and explanation Thankyou!

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@jeanramses5295]

this IS exactly the video I needed for my project

[@pacomerla]

Supernice thanksss!!❤❤

[@HoopersBeta]

Welcome!

[@shokland]

I definitely need this!

[@cytrus5652]

Love this sutch good advice

[@jesusalejandrorosas5224]

Awesome! I' ll try it.

[@shaunoleary8740]

This was the awesome video I didn't know I needed. Thank you!

[@HoopersBeta]

Nice! Happy to hear that. Hope it helps!

[@ryanf283]

This is what I needed. Thanks for the guidance.

[@HoopersBeta]

Welcome!

[@SethPierceClimbing]

I can't believe I'm just now finding you. This is the BEST climbing content I've ever seen. Thank you!

[@HoopersBeta]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@peterpham00]

Da Best Climbing content on the toobz

[@thisscreensucks]

My only advice while watching friends climb is "can you get your feet higher?" I climb with a tiny box.

[@ejl74]

I’ve been working on this for the last few months and it’s helped my climbing g more then anything.

[@HoopersBeta]

Crazy how useful it can be!

[@vildeabrahamsen]

Can’t wait to try this out! Will this also help with “snapping hip”? It’s never been painful, but I’m worried it’s going to turn in to a problem down the line. If not, what can I do to fix it/prevent further damage?

[@Yarrownew9759]

This is great! I've never seen that frogger position before but glad to know that doing yoga in general is super useful for climbing. One question I have is surrounding high stepping all the time. I've been told by pretty accomplished climbers that stepping up too high ALL the time can be a bit of an energy sink compared to making a couple smaller movements at times. I used to make the biggest possible movements on a lot of climbs until someone told me to not be going for full extensions with arms or legs all the time. I assume with most things there's always a balance to be found between using lots of high steps with more conservative movements that still engage the legs and proper footwork? Thanks for the video, I've really been digging the content from this channel!

[@HoopersBeta]

Yes! That is correct. There are certainly times when using lower feet and conserve energy. It's always a balance and every project needs to be examined for the best beta for each climber. Having this ability, though, can certainly save you and save energy if you are able to get the foot up and rock onto it!

[@boulderfighters2590]

Will definitely try this out. Already doing the frog stretch regularly. Thanks for the good content and the good presentation of the content.

[@HoopersBeta]

Frog stretch is a classic! Thanks for commenting -Emile

[@jcbaxter_racing]

Hey Dr Hooper. Wondering if you could talk about brachioradialis pain. Mine has been going on for nearly a year now and always comes back when climbing a couple sessions after a break. It always hurts with pronated elbow flexion (ie climbing). Supinated bicep curls don't do anything to hurt it.

[@adriensanz2354]

Damn you Hooper ! Exposing my secret weapon and only climbing skill to everyone =(

[@HoopersBeta]

Sharing is caring... 😅

[@testpattern098765432]

Can you do an episode on stretching - short term versus long term effects? I can get benefits before a climb, but I want to know how to make long term changes to hip flexibility.

[@patapon6370]

Nice and clear 👍

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad you think so!

[@AnonymousePhx]

Thanks for these amazing videos! Quick question - I get a lot of restriction/moderate pinching pain on the lateral/posterior part of my standing left leg's hamstring when doing the active range exercise - I have (suspected) sciatica on that side, would you suggest continuing on with these exercises, or is it time I see a specialist such as yourself? :)

[@dominiksowinski9986]

I’d love to hear some words from you about gaston move - sometime ago it triggered my shoulder injury and now I still can’t do it. But when I’ll rehab totally, I wonder how it is supposed to be done safely (or at least as safe as possible). Because for the most of the time arm is in internal rotation, which isn’t may cause some impingement there, right? Take care, have a good climb!

[@PS-nm8wk]

These excercises are just what I need. Thanks! As always, I also like how you present them. One question - should I worry if my hips crack when doing the excercise in front of the wall, or is that just a sign of low mobility?

[@HoopersBeta]

If it's painfree and that reduces after working on your mobility then that's fine but if it creates pain then you'll want to get it further evaluated (or just keep working on your mobility and see if it reduces over time :))

[@DeadAnubis]

I'm really happy about myself on that aspect. My wife is jealous of my open hips and like Margot Hayes I can put my heelhook above my head for some weird rest positions on routes.

[@ArnaudThiebault]

Mobility

[@HoopersBeta]

Consistency is definitely the key when it comes to stretching so you're doing it right! Maybe we'll have to do a "journey to full split" video ;)

[@GoblinGolf]

It would be nice to add in some hip extensor work at that end range to the routine also

[@fredericp64]

I rarely come across gold like this! Great video!

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you for the kind words!

[@mano0n]

Definitely not underrated when you're a petite climber though ! I've been struggling with my hip mobility so thank you for those exercises that I'm gonna do religiously. Great video, super clear explanations, thank you so much.

[@simplebouldering4295]

Hey dude, thanks for the information, it's awesome. Would it be dangerous to do the stretches every day, and twice a day on climbing days? I see the recommendation is 3-6x a week so I am wondering if rest days are necessary with something like this. Cheers!

[@jimmahgee]

Thanks for the info, Handsome Hank Green ;)

[@crimsonraen]

This is so great! High feet or bust!

[@danielmercado3091]

You should research "knees over toes guy" and do a vid on some of the stuff he does its helped me so much in climbing

[@jekkros729]

Guter stuff :)

[@teaproductions7047]

Really fantastic videos - thank you very much. At 53 I am finally addressing by far my biggest weakness. Excellent video(s). Tom

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you very much for the support! We greatly appreciate it. Happy that this video is able to help you address that weakness!

[@pascalerichardson-haughey9582]

Thanks for the great video! I have a question about mobility and high feet: I can easily get my feet up high when hold are to the side, but when a hold is in front of me, I have much less mobility. Are there exercises specifically for high feet mobility, but not in frog-like positions, but rather in positions where your foot is in front of you? Thanks!

[@mhueckst]

Would you recommend this routine for stemming flexibility? I have terrible hip flexibility and my range of motion is super limited when I am at end range (i.e. stemming). I would be psyched to make corners/stemboxes easier!

[@richardbradley1532]

This is my biggest (of many) weakness. Hopefully doing these will help.

[@eSKAone-]

Excellent 💟🌌☮️

[@luisdominguezmora4047]

Excellent video as always!!! On a side note, your voice sounds similar to David Spade...are you sure you aren't a professional nutritionist comedian climber? lol

[@HoopersBeta]

😂😂 might have to put that as my new credentials!

[@timmurray9543]

Thansk very helpful! Do I need to do other hip stretches like trying to do the splits or are thesegood enough for climbing?

[@kamenpetrov6622]

why would you say no to more mobility. The better it is the more positions in which you would be able to bring your hips closer to the wall, or reach a step thats high up or far to the side etc

[@MrMosherMosher]

From 6:55 onwords i really feel my tight tissue getting broken up... weird feeling, hope it helps :D Good Vid!

[@psicologiageneraleconalleg369]

Got emotional seing my video! Great work as always

[@psicologiageneraleconalleg369]

Also waiting for an ankle mobility video, I find so hard to find effective exercises :'(

[@HoopersBeta]

Ankle mobility would be a great future vid! Added to the list :)

[@psicologiageneraleconalleg369]

@@HoopersBeta Can't wait!

[@psicologiageneraleconalleg369]

I actually suggested you to be invited to Climber's Crag yt channel. Hope they'll pick the suggestion up!

[@RonaiHenrik]

There's a 6c(ish) boulder problem at my gym where i would need like 3 cm more hip mobility to send it. I can do every other move but it has this close-to-front-split move up high which I just can't make. Even though I pretty flexible. I hope the problem is still up...

[@toomuch9762]

Its just the frog stretch!! What the hell is a frogger 😂😂😂 great video though some real gems in here 👍

[@HoopersBeta]

Frogger, like the og video game :)

[@IzzyIkigai]

4:29 sheesh, i came here for my hip quest and this dude just slaps me with another sidequest...

[@alexmyyo]

Great video ! Thanks a lot I really dont have the range of motion on my ankle to perform a deep squat, like, not even close... Any advice ? Just deep squat with aid ? I think my climbingwould generally benefit from better ankle mobility (lowering the ankle to get more friction is an advice I've often heard, but cant really follow because of that).

[@DeadAnubis]

Passive putting weight-in stretch... I also have that problem and I do it 3-4 times a week for more range of motion. (I sit one leg samurai style and the other one deep squat and I put my weight on squatting leg pushing with my hands 60 to 120 seconds x3) x4 a week

[@phaphua2022]

One tip to perform the deep squat: be an Asian

[@Kaskada4ever]

I am here because I need to reach that high step! Also binge watching all your videos. You are awesome.

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad you're enjoying! Thanks for the binge :)

[@benja_mint]

I started on this one year ago and I can see improvements on the wall (thanks!) But my frog stretch is barely wider then when I started. Why no visible progress?

[@atti1120]

With excess bone on the femur heads and labrum tears, most of this is painful, but i naturally i don't have much trouble with high feet too bad. It's even worse abducting that shit hurts. So when possible, i climb with closed hips, with one side of the hips close to the wall

[@nbka8rs]

are those the comp solutions? how do you like them for inside/outside? thinking of picking them up for my next shoe, but as a replacement for my current solutions. sick vid, super useful tbh

[@HoopersBeta]

The solutions were my favorite pair before changing to the comps. I love the comps! For me, they made all the right changes. Softer shoe, better heel, and sharper toe.

[@nbka8rs]

@@HoopersBeta Did you size the same exact way as your solution?

[@HoopersBeta]

@@nbka8rs yeah I did

[@davidbecker54]

First off, love your videos! While I very much agree with everything you're saying, I wouldn't say the first example you gave was accurate. The 'Poor Technique' example (@1:28) I would argue is actually way more efficient depending on the type of climbing you're doing. Making smaller, easier, movements might be the key to unlocking a certain type of climbing. Making bigger moves isn't always the right way. While the Improved Technique method gets you up the wall faster, you're straining both your arms and your legs a whole lot more. I think a better example would have been something like having to cut feet to place a high foot/heel versus being able to keep your lower foot on, while place a high foot/heel

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks, glad you like the videos! And I agree with what you're saying to some extent, but here's the thing -- it's impossible to show perfect, simplified examples of complex techniques. There will always be a flaw in the presentation you can point out because of such and such situation or limitation or whatever. Even the example you propose could easily have holes poked in it. The point is never to create the most perfect example that can be applied practically in every situation because that's literally impossible with climbing. Instead, we have to create an easy-to-understand generalization illustrated in physical reality that is also interesting to look at.

[@davidbecker54]

@@HoopersBeta As a software developer, I very much understand the inability to always give 'perfect' examples, but there is a difference between a good example and a correct one. Sometimes in software, giving an example is harder than just telling someone, 'here's how you should do it', but the example is maybe even more important than the actual concept. Most people learn by example and they continually re-adjust their knowledge based on all those examples they've seen, especially as a beginner. So what they're visually seeing is also important to engraining the concept into their practice. Anyways, we could debate this all day and it would be an interesting one at that! But here's to amazing free content you're supplying and keep doing what you're doing!

[@hvdveer]

Woah, what is that song

[@BigShelley]

Hey Dr. Hoop, Do you have any advice for people with unstable/hypermobile hips? I still think I could benefit from increased mobility, if it can be done safely. But when I try the exercise in part 2, I get mild pain in the hip of the leg I’m standing on - like the surrounding muscles are working really hard to keep my hip in position. Sometimes, on the wall, it'll even feel like my hip pops out of its socket partially. I have hypermobility issues in a lot of my joints (esp. wrists, fingers, and hips), but I’m trying to save my questions until they’re relevant to the video at hand. I don’t know if hypermobility is a common enough issue to justify it’s own video, but, if it is, that would be amazingly helpful for me. Thanks!

[@HoopersBeta]

For an oversimplified way to check your mobility / see if you are hypermobile, look up the Beighton Hypermobility Score. *be gentle, don't be overly aggressive, and perform at your own risk* :) When it comes to your mobility concern. Progressive strength training of the hips and core is really important. Start with easier / more simple exercises, and progressively move into more challenging exercise (whether that in respect to resistance, or range of motion). I love side steps with band at toes for a simple yet really effect hip exercise. And Palof press with walk out for the core. *again, perform at your own risk*. There are of course many other examples but these are some great ones.

[@BigShelley]

@@HoopersBeta Thanks! I’ve been diagnosed as hypermobile, so there’s no doubt there. I already do the first exercise several times per week (as prescribed by the pelvic PT I previously saw), but I had not heard of the second. I will check that out.

[@markythegreat]

I’m climbing 6a and I’ve just realised just how shocking my hip and leg mobility is. I can’t even get my butt to touch my heels in child’s pose, regardless of where my torso is. With most fitness being cardio focussed in the past, stretching is about injury prevention and reducing aches but never truly essential to performance, so skipped stretching…for literally my whole life. Then building a bunch of strength without ever focussing on mobility means I’m even stiffer than I would be naturally. Sooo yeah, at least now I’m climbing I have a better motivation to stretch so I hope I see some improvement.

[@HoopersBeta]

Oh dang yeah it definitely sounds like some stretching would be beneficial for you and your climbing! Just be patient, it can take some time to improve upon :)

[@markythegreat]

@@HoopersBeta I think those people who really enjoy stretching and find it calming / endorphin boosting whatever, I don’t think they realise how lucky they are because I find it a real chore to do - but if I see some progress with leg and hip mobility on the wall then that’s good. Don’t even ask me about my shoulders ugh.

[@ananda_miaoyin]

Good stuff. BE CAREFUL with the frog stretch. You can hurt yourself quickly. Go slow into the reverse!

[@Emil_Ortiz]

Don’t sleep on this stuff, I forced myself into awkward positions despite not really having the hip mobility to be in those position and it surely contributed to meniscus tear

[@kevinmai3778]

It became so hard starting from Frogger Stretch. I am capable of doing high feet on overhangs but not on slabs. Hopefully these exercises can help me with slabs.

[@HoopersBeta]

Definitely! That's a great deficit to notice. Indicates you likely have good hip flexion mobility but perhaps more limited in abduction.

[@kockarthur7976]

My underrated climbing skills: Bouldering: Palming down, especially for mantles. Sport Climbing: Being comfortable with climbing above the bolt, not being afraid to whip safely.

[@voiceoftreason1760]

what is send?

[@joji_okami]

damn my hip mobility. high feet in some cases (depending on the hold as well) can be very tricky for me. definitely doing there frequently from now on.

[@HoopersBeta]

If you can, it's definitely a great skill to improve!

[@Sky2Live]

Have been doing all 3 for a while except i havent been climbing due to a shoulder issue

[@HoopersBeta]

Hope the shoulder feels better soon!!

[@lyra797]

I've done the 3 stretches for about 10 days now (once per day), but they caused my right inner thigh to hurt. It got worse every day so I stopped them now. Hopefully the pain goes away

[@justinlohrman7628]

What if you have unusual natural flexibility? If these stretches are easy, will you benefit from these?

[@rmmichael95]

I always just call the last one the "gonna get f*cked by my proj" stretch.

[@nadiradyaa]

Whats the end goal of the frogger stretch? Will our hips/butt eventually touch the ground in that position if we’re flexible enough? If that is so, im light years behind😅

[@HoopersBeta]

I don't think that *needs* to be the goal. Some elite climbers have wonderful mobility in this range but touching the ground? that's next level.

[@josepo1163]

Good video, but those streches can tense your glutes a lot, so i'd recommend streching them too at the end, to compensate. At least that's what I do.

[@tomhughes3582]

What are the shoes you use?

[@HoopersBeta]

La Sportiva Solution Comp (link in description :))

[@MichaelDuke1]

How does this man know everything that I'm bad at