The RIGHT WAY to Install 3-Prong Power Cords in Fender Amps

In this video we'll show best practices for wiring a 3-prong grounded power cable in a vintage Fender guitar amplifier by bypassing the "Ground", aka "Polarity", switch and "death cap" and placing the fuse and switch up front in series. These basic principles will apply to most Fender ampsfrom the Brownface (Blonde), Blackface, and Silverface eras - Champ, Princeton, Deluxe. Deluxe Reverb, Princeton Reverb, Band Master, Showman, Dual Showman, Twin Reverb, Super Reverb, Vibroverb, Vibrolux Reverb, Tremolux, Vibrosonic...
Tools and Parts Needed:
Soldering Iron - amzn.to/2jQPv0g
Multi-Meter - amzn.to/2jQUK05
Wire Stripper and Terminal Set - amzn.to/2iyOKYQ
Shrink tubing - amzn.to/2j0Zike
Grommits - amzn.to/2iyPixR
Zip Ties - amzn.to/2joTEvM
Utility Knife - amzn.to/2iyLRHg
Needle Nosed Pliers - amzn.to/2jQMtt1
3-prong 16AWG Power Cord - amzn.to/2jpe0oG

[@reggiewallace260]

Brad, a question on the way you are wiring. It looks like you're wiring in the fuse holder BEFORE the power switch using the hot lead from the power cord. Wouldn't that make the fuse holder hot and a potential shock hazard when changing or checking the fuse if the power cord happens to be connected to a wall outlet regardless of the position of the power switch? Certainly one should always disconnect the power cord from the wall outlet before changing of checking a fuse, but wouldn't wiring in the power switch before the fuse holder be a bit better idea?

[@TheGuitologist]

There are tradeoffs no matter which way you do things, but the idea of going to a UL APPROVED panel mount switch FIRST is in the event of a switch failure that shorts hot to ground inside the power switch, the fuse will do its job and blow, severing that circuit. Otherwise, you're relying solely on the power transformer windings or house breaker. The UL approved fuse holders don't allow for the contact of an inner terminal without using a foreign implement. Just dropping a fuse in the holder won't allow for this. Here's a fuse holder that should be used. It requires insertion of the fuse into the cap FIRST in order to make full contact. www.grainger.com/product/6F457?cm_mmc=PPC:+MSN+PLA&gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:MS:CSM-2295:7FJN1U:20500731&s_kwcid=AL!2966!10!8973609555!4583108072865891&ef_id=XiedMQAAAIaOZEyv:20200922150147:s

[@aviben50]

@@TheGuitologist Not clear to me whether you now recommend installing a NEW fuse and holder before the power switch as the commenter suggested. Wouldn't that be safer?

[@dryan8377]

NO. The inline fuse is the decision maker on whether a fault exists or not. Fuse first. You cannot remove all shock hazards ever. I'd rather have a fuse fail than my house burn down.

[@jenniferwhitewolf3784]

I hope by now you have acquired a professional grade soldering pencil. If almost hurts me to see you doing good works, but hindered by a grungy ugly tip of random “just hot” temperature. Higher end Wellers with temp controls, Haco ( avoid the counterfits) and a few others are under $150, and will streamline the soldering process. I have made millions of solder joints over greater than 55 years.. you will love what a proper tool does for the quality and speed of your soldering. Having a shiny tip on every joint that is of a set temperature is the way to go. You deserve it!

[@useme2305]

don't know if it's been mentioned in other comments but a quick safety tip: keep the ground wire (green) aproximately double the length of the hot wires. this will ensure a grounded chassis in case one or both of the hot wires breaks. it's mandatory in some countries to do it this way, too.

[@NewGuysGuitar]

Thank you. I’m about to put a grounded power cable on my 60s fender champ.

[@roncarter2188]

Thanks so much for this detailed video. I like to mess with a lot of the old tube powered pa amplifiers and they almost always need the power cord upgraded and by doing this you make the amp safe and it seems to quiet it down as well, so many thanks and keep up the good work.

[@alfatone2654]

Thanks Brad, My Traynor YGM-4 Studio Mate has both the AUX power switch and the ground switch and I've been meaning to get to this 3 prong power chord swap done for a long time now. Take care, love the videos.

[@ronaldwhite5887]

Thank you for the tutorial, I own three older amps that need this update and was not sure if I should attempt. Very concise presentation.

[@rennpart]

In process of following your video now. Thank you! Found the 8ft cord at Lowes for under $10, it is a high quality cord and even has the talcum powder. The grommets I got from Autozone. My 65' Deluxe Reverb had an original 2 prong wiring but someone electric taped a 3 prong end onto it! Went to pull the cord out of the wall one day and the wires came off! Fun times. Thank you!

[@thomaskartler7557]

Just put a new speaker in my 1964 Princeton and figured I should change the cord also.The timing for this video is perfect. I'll be doing this tonite. Thanks.

[@surfshack2]

I used this procedure on a '64 Blackface Champ and it worked beautifully. Thank You!!

[@kevingrace1378]

Thanks Brad I’ve been wanting to do this on my 65 super ,now I can watch the video and solder along. Thanks again this was a big help.

[@surfshack2]

Thanks for the detailed video. I have 4 vintage fender amps I need to have this work done to and with help from your video I am going to do it myself. I know how to sodder, I've done installation of pickups in a few guitars and a couple capacitors in my old Fender Bassman and also changed out many speakers in old amps. I know how to test and de-energize the capacitors in an amp circuit to make it safe. I just needed to have this 3 prong power cord replacement procedure explained. I need to replace the power cords and remove the death cap in my '58 Bassman, '62 Deluxe, '64 Deluxe and '64 Champ. Thank You.

[@KeganVanSickle]

Thanks for this great tutorial. I just finished my blackface bandmaster with your help!

[@mr.joshua657]

I just came back for a refresher course in three prong replacement. This time I have the sweetest ALL ORIGINAL 1964 Fender Concert 4x10 amp that needs a 3 prong upgrade. And when I say all original, I mean everything, Oxfords, iron, 2 prong cord, everything. Clean too. I think I'm in love, for a while.

[@d5uncr]

I like to have the ground wire be a bit longer than the two others. So even if someone does manage to rip the cord, despite the hinges and zip-ties, it at least has the best chance of staying attached.

[@TheGuitologist]

POSTSCRIPT NOTES: Some later Silverface Fender amps have a grounded auxiliary power socket on the back of the amp. These are wired exactly the same, but with the addition of a ground wire for that socket's ground terminal. Also, it's a good idea to make the ground wire long enough so that it is the last wire to exit the rear of the amp in the event someone tries to use the power cord as a jump rope.

[@kevinpike4367]

Easy to follow video, excellent job. The hardest part for me was using the old grommet (didn't want to go to the store), but It finally worked!

[@johnvarga6198]

Thanks Brad!! Used your video to remove the death cap on my FDR not to mention many of your other videos on Fender mods! Awesome!! Peace!

[@Voodoo66Chile]

Thanks Brad! I recently picked up a '72 Bassman Ten and I noticed the Ground switch was broken. I wanted to bypass it seeing as it's already a 3 prong cable and found this video EXTREMELY helpful! It looked as if someone wired it similar as you did but instead of connecting/splicing the wires together they used the lugs on the Ground switch. Seeing as the toggle was broken (wiggled loose, no clicking/detents) and I have no clue what position the switch was in internally or if it mattered, I chose to bypass it completely and fallow your steps. Along with bypassing the Ground Switch I found 2 broken solder joints, one at the Earth Ground (yikes!) and another I am not entirely sure of. I got those reflowed, cleaned the pots and jacks, tightened a loose transformer and now know I need a cap job asap, all original caps with one bulging... I've played around on it and it's actually a really nice sounding amp for guitar, I'd say an excellent pedal platform as it's stays pretty clean and very transparent with different guitars and pedals... Anyways! I've been a long time watcher and finally needed your help! Thanks again! Take care!

[@audiotechlabs4650]

I hope I did not come off as a wizenhiemer! Your videos are always top notch and correct! I just feel the same way you seem to, so I like to chime in. I hope you will continue with these great videos! Thankz

[@TheGuitologist]

You know comments are always welcome.

[@83roadstar]

Thanks for the awesome vid,the 3 prong cord works great on My Bassman!

[@jaymo444]

Thanks,. Nice presentation. I replaced the old cord on my 67 Bandmaster. Works great.

[@ALtheDoctorWho]

I like your work Doug.

[@1badpete999]

Personally I use shrink tubing just for low voltage low amps situations there is always a chance that the solder ac neutral strand wires can poke trough the thin shrink tubing while heating , i would have used one of the legs of the unused dead reverse polarity switch for a strong bond as a stand-off type affair , since the other legs-post wont be used anymore , like your video a lot keep on the good job ..bring me back to my younger technician days I remember these amps to give you a hell of a shock wile touching a grounded metallic microphone stand connected in a PA with reverse polarity lol !

[@richandson1]

Great video. Someone put a 3 prong on my Super Bassman but only wired it as 2. After watching your video I pulled the chassis and wired it properly. Thanks

[@brewer13210]

FYI, you really should use a cordset anchor, not a grommet to anchor the cord to the chassis. If you're going to use a grommet, then tie a knot in the cord so it can't be pulled out. If you don't do either of those things, then leave the ground wire longer than the neutral and hot leads, so if the cord is pulled out, the last wire to detach is the ground.

[@songshineoriginalmusic]

To get around this I use a cable restraint attached to one of the screws of the PT with a lock washer and new nut that the entire cable run through securely. This way there is no chance the cable will be pushed in or pulled out. Leaving a bit more ground wire is a good practice anyways, but this method is pretty fool proof.

[@audiotechlabs4650]

Great video Brad, as always! The only thing I do different is I pre-tin the bare wire and although 16 ga. wire is great, I think 18ga. is safe to use, then you can reuse the chassis grommet from Fender. You way is so good! It will be good to have the extra length of power cable. Thankz

[@TheGuitologist]

Yeah, I misspoke when I said "or larger". 16AWG or 18AWG is fine.

[@songshineoriginalmusic]

This is exactly how I have been doing it for years. You could: use the unused terminal of the ground switch to land your cables rather than having to splice; use a cable restraint inside the chassis attached to one of the screws of the PT (like how you did with the ground lug) even though the cable in a Fender is restrained because sometimes they come out; make sure folks know to discharge the amp first; use a lock washer on the ground lug connection; I like to tin the iron first; let people know to use a blunt tip rather than fine pointed tip on their iron for these types of connections. Just some friendly pointers from someone who has been doing this since the 80's! I'll check your other videos out. Thanks.

[@MrHeggeb]

Quality video as always. Thanks

[@TheGuitologist]

Thanks for watching. I know it's rudimentary for a lot of my viewers, but not for others.

[@peterwright5761]

I looked at all the videos and liked this method the best. I did do something I liked better with the strain relief. Most fender amps use a oblong grommet with two straight sides. The blackface 66 Princeton l have uses a round 1/2” grommet for a flat lamp style cord. I carefully filed the inside of the grommet with a round file and was able to get a modern 18 gauge cord in it. 16 gauge won’t work. Looks great and didn’t have to file the chassis.😀

[@thats2kewl]

Great video! Educational, informative, and instructional (with a little bit of humor)..love the way you always explain how and why you do something. And I love your nails!!! LOL...I know you always get flack for them?? :)

[@DavidMorales008]

Excellent, thank you as always very awesome

[@joshuabloodsworth9495]

Hey brad, lovin the channel! I have a quick question abt installing a fuse holder on a '64 Alamo Paragon head that didnt come with one & i would like to take the ground switch out of series. Any insight you have would be really helpful, since you have some experience with these old Alamo amps. Thx!

[@kardRatzinger]

Hello Brad, in my opinion, no existing mounting point should be used for the ground wire. I believe having a dedicated bolt only for the ground wire is the only legal way to do it in new equipment, at least this side of the pond. The rationale is, whatever part becomes loose or wobbly due to vibrations or misuse, it won't affect the ground wire. Also, I think the ground wire should be longer than the other two. In case the power cable gets tripped upon and ripped out, the ground wire is the last to fail. Cheers.

[@TheGuitologist]

You are right on regulations regarding new equipment and the longer ground cord is a good idea I will incorporate in future power cord replacements. I mentioned that in my pinned comment. However, drilling new holes in vintage chassis is not a practice I'm going to incorporate. Thanks for the comment!

[@andyfuchs5252]

An actual IEC socket can be used in the same hole with no drilling and the power cord would be removable and safer than this dangerous method. Too many things wrong with this....no true strain relief, wiring is wrong (live wire should go to tip of fuseholder, then to the switch. The ground should be soldered not wired through the transformer bolt. This may be better than a stock 2-prong, but it's not code-correct and done poorly.

[@jmiel5193]

Nice concise write up !

[@Matan2222222]

Hello! Thanks for the great video! why did you choose to use the auxillary plug? is there any benefit in that method?

[@chicolorenger1998]

Very good presentation mr G. al lorenger,Livonia,Mi

[@Blaydrnnnr]

I'm finally going to install a three prong cord in my Silvertone 1484 amp, and just as this Fender has, the Silvertone ALSO has an auxillary plug AND a ground switch. I am uncertain if it has the death cap though. I have the schematic, but not quite sure....any chance you know?

[@sandienochs6132]

Man, you are so good at everything you do, the explanation, the video work, even your voice somehow fits the subject matter perfectly. This procedure is especially important for harmonica players!!! Thanks, thanks, and thanks again.

[@philivkovich7729]

Any install videos for amps without receptacle?

[@timm.6391]

Thanks for this, I'm attempting to scratch build an amp using an old Bradford hi-fi amp. Deleting all the radio tubes and keeping the 2 12ax7 and the 2 7868 power tubes. This have me a lot of info on the way to convert its cheesy small wire 2 prong to the 16g 3 prong i had in my junk stash. Lol. I've been recovering caps and resistors from components replaced in my line of work. At first I was simply going to try a conversion.... but looking at it more. At this point gong to strip this thing down and find a schematic and just scratch build.... and be very careful doing so as this will be the most complex electrical feat I've taken on as of yet. I'm just unsure how I want to preamp with the 2 12ax7 at this point. I know 7868 can be very clean, which i want... but I also want to drive them to break up also.... I've heard some pretty gritty 7868 amps... by the way.... any schematic suggestions to get a good clean to high gain using the 2 tube types i mentioned?

[@Blueguitar007]

Im replacing a two prong on a silver face champ. Will any 18 gauge fit the retainer already in the amp? There's a site that has this and a "slimmer" 18 gauge for going from 2 to 3 prong. Seems confusing..

[@Zelleram55]

Thanks for the video. That was the first mod I ever made to an amp a few years ago. It was on my Brothers 1965 Black Face Fender Dual Showman that was shocking him. Wish this video had been out then. Lots of great info in this for new guys to pick up on, like J hooking, smaller socket opening being hot, color coding on wire strippers ect ect...

[@TheGuitologist]

Thanks for watching. There seem to be a couple more vids on KZbin showing this procedure on a Fender, but I didn't think they were detailed enough and did things slightly differently than I usually do them.

[@neilverdon8358]

hi the earth lead should always be a bit longer so when the cord is yanked out and live comes into contact with the chassis it is still earthed. Safety first.

[@geoffreykeane4072]

neil verdon Agreed Neil, that is what I was taught many years ago. If the mains cord gets yanked the earth should be the last to break.

[@johnkramer7161]

That's why he used the zip tie so the cord won't get yanked out.

[@MarkTillotson]

That not really enough, cords can get yanked _really hard_ because a clown dangled it as a trip-hazard and some poor soul tripped over it, or because the amp fell off a stage, etc. The live wire should break free first and hopefully short to something and blow the fuse, chassis stays earthed until the whole cable is out of the unit.

[@whatyoumakeofit6635]

Great idea

[@alexb618]

hey brad, what's the point of the aux on one of these amps? could you just bypass it?

[@robertantonelli2710]

I have a 1966 Fender Bassman model AA165 that has a "stand by switch". Seeing your video, I want to replace the 2 prong to a 3 prong power cord. If any, are there any other modifications needed for the "stand by switch".??? Thank you for your expertise!

[@silasfatchett7380]

No.

[@Retro.Studio]

Great video, so if I understand correctly, there is only a death cap present, when there is a polarity switch?

[@awwnawmang]

false. i have a silverface fender champ that has a death cap and no polarity switch.

[@Blueguitar007]

Is it ok to leave the ground switch in and just remove death cap? I'd like to do as little soldering as possible as I always melt wires by accident. The switch would just be non functional without the death cap or will it cause problems with switch left in?

[@glasstronic]

"Had difficulty finding the hole"... Now, that had both me AND me gal howlin"!! Good stuff here, might save a player from serious grief. Well done, IMHO.

[@oscarwylder]

"And you know how everyone hates premature shrinkage" - There's something for everyone here folks :-)

[@RasCuban33]

Doing this to a Ibanez DM1000 delay unit that has its original two prong cord. Should be much easier being solid state and not having a death cap. Thanks for the video Brad!👍🏽

[@mr.joshua657]

Hey Brad, I have '65 Princeton Reverb, all original, and I mean ALL original. Still had the three prong cord and DEATH cap installed. I never changed it because it was running just fine. so why change it, right? Until a couple of weeks ago when I flipped the switch and it bit me! I could taste the electricity, like chewing on a nine volt battery. So I remembered this video, came back and watched it about 3 times in a row, and successfully removed the old power and installed a new, beefy ass 12 gauge three pronger. Thanks for posting this, the replacement was a breeze because of it. Cheers, Josh

[@mushroomsamba82]

premature shrinkage followed by a j-hook, that's my signature move

[@vminator]

You should pull the filament AC lines back up, it looks they they've been squished down. It will decrease noise in the audio output.

[@GIBKEL]

Gibkel here with a help request- just received a 430 Harmony Amp that was advertised as having the 3 prong chord upgrade. It did not. Amp has polarity switch included in the (On/Off) -and and a standby switch . Some how I bet there is a death cap also. Do you have a valco amp circuit video you’ve done this to that I can use as reference? The tech must have blown through repair thinking that the easiest had been completed. Since it is a valco , I’m sure it won’t be as straight forward as a fender as valco has its own way about it. Similar to gretsch 6162 at least by it’s schematic but this beast actually has two channels. I also faintly remember you changing. Cement bias resistor in the power section of the 6162 gretsch. Cant remember if it had gone bad due to excessive heat and wire position. Tried a set of RCA 6973 in place of the newer EH 6973 and I couldn’t hear or feel the difference in their response. Would the original tubes been biased differently than the newer EH6973 and that’s why I hear no difference switching them out.’It’s just another shit-post Friday, well that’s my fun-day’

[@jimcamp2423]

Could also check for continuity for the new cord for ground, positive & negative, from the plug to each of the wire inside the chassis. I'm kind of curious as to why the transformer that used to be on the fuse doesn't stay connected to the fuse ?

[@nolatone]

Just a couple of comments. If you hold the wire with pliers and gently break the insulation with the strippers, you can use the end of the insulation to twist the strands tight and you can then tin the tightly twisted wire. This way the wires are never "birdcaged" (as they used to call it in US Navy soldering school". Also, they make lock grommets that go in that hole that lock the power cord in place. Most any tube amp parts site will have them.

[@danvanslyke471]

I can’t seem to find a video or instructions for installing a 3-prong cord in a 1973 Fender Bassman 100. Any idea of where I could find that? Thanks

[@JeremiahL]

I prefer the plastic 2 piece strain relief clamps for the cable to chassis pass through interface. If the amp takes a spill you need positive retention on your strain relief so you won't put any stress on the solder joints of the power cable conductors. Some times with the right size cable to grommet interference you can get some strain relief, but if that doesnt happen you basically have no clamps pressure on the cable allowing it to translate in and out of the chassis. Also to achieve this interference with a grommet, you will have to wrestle with the cable to get it to pass through the grommet.... The plastic ones are much easier to install, and in my opinion provide better strain relief. My 2 cents

[@jefferywarburton2116]

pre tinning your wires can help to get them through the holes and exept your solder quicker

[@captainamerica9353]

jeffery warburton , that's a good tip, but that would be "accept" your solder.

[@tomf7976]

my '67 Bassman has a standby switch to the left of the on/off as you look at the chassis from the front. How does that change the wiring? Help!

[@silasfatchett7380]

It doesn't. Just follow the procedure in the video.

[@mattjoe1982]

I have a 66’ Champ. Can I leave the death cap in while changing out the 2 prong?

[@tjminasi1442]

Nope, Death Cap for Cutie Always Goes!

[@GeorgeChristofi]

just wondering why you dont use a solder sucker to remove the old solder rather than just melting the old and trying to get the wire through?

[@TheGuitologist]

Short answer: because this way was quicker and my solder suckers...well...suck.

[@GeorgeChristofi]

fair enough!

[@JustinGillenMusic]

I followed this step for step and triple checked that all the correct solders were made. Went to plug it in and clicked the on switch - the light doesnt come on and the amp appears to be getting no power. Any ideas of why this happened or whats going on? I noticed that on your example our neutral and hot wires are on opposite sides. I looked behind and it appears the smaller hole is connected to the hot line as intended. I am tempted to change them and make them look like yours but im scared to hurt the amp. Any ideas on what to do here? 1967 super reverb. Any suggestions appreciated.

[@JustinGillenMusic]

Disregard! Turns out my 3 prong power cord was bad. Sheesh. First time working on an amp and that happens. Such luck :P

[@johnstorace9797]

Great video! My only objection was using a plain grommet with no strain relief.

[@johnsimms3957]

Do you ever use heat sinks when you're soldering?

[@TheGuitologist]

No. Never felt the need.

[@BMH-cb9jt]

Will this work on a 1968 super reverb?

[@DustInTheWindAZ]

Does anyone ever replace the 2-prong convenience outlet with a 3-prong (grounded) version? If so, where can you find one and how do you install it?

[@andyfuchs5252]

An actual IEC socket can be used in the same hole with no drilling and the power cord would be removable and safer than this dangerous method. Too many things wrong with this....no true strain relief, wiring is wrong (live wire should go to tip of fuseholder, then to the switch. The ground should be soldered not wired through the transformer bolt. This may be better than a stock 2-prong, but it's not code-correct and done poorly.

[@DustInTheWindAZ]

@@andyfuchs5252 I hear what you're saying, but I'm looking for the FEMALE grounded convenience outlet to replace to 2-prong outlet.

[@enigma7070]

I use an electricians knot instead of a wire tie. Do you think the wire tie is a better solution?

[@alorenger]

Thankx...very informative ! Learned alot !

[@Matan2222222]

Hello! What gauge are the yellow wires?

[@charlesshaw9090]

Hot must go to the side of a fuse holder. The way you have wired it means that even with the amp ‘switched off’ someone could die if they touched the fuse while changing it because you have put hot to the tip!

[@andyfuchs5252]

An actual IEC socket can be used in the same hole with no drilling and the power cord would be removable and safer than this dangerous method. Too many things wrong with this....no true strain relief, wiring is wrong (live wire should go to tip of fuseholder, then to the switch. The ground should be soldered not wired through the transformer bolt. This may be better than a stock 2-prong, but it's not code-correct and done poorly.

[@SlowMenThinking]

Silly Question this mid sixty's amp twin prong power why was it this way in the first place or at the very least it could have been double insulated. Where we are 240VAC at 50HZ anything wired that way would have been considered a death trap even then.

[@lutkedog1]

Does Fender have both two and three prong chassis socket that also is the same size?

[@audiotechlabs4650]

David Lutke It depends on the year it was manufactured. Sometime in the 70's Fender switched to 3 prong. It comes down to 2 types of restoration of all vintage guitars and amps. Restore to play or restore hang on a wall, archive. Most of my restorations are for people who play, so function and safety are the #1 concern. It is important to save as much of the original parts in case you sell the amp or guitar to a collector who wishes to restore to original specs. You will get more money that way. Thankz

[@TheGuitologist]

Yes, thank you for reminding me. I'll make a pinned comment about that.

[@dannyhullihen966]

Very nice job. Personally speaking, the one thing I would have done different is replace the auxillary outlet with a 3 prong grounded recepticle

[@BrettLane-divideby0]

I was thinking about that too…

[@rillloudmother]

11:53 what's foreplay?

[@richardcrews4863]

tin(solder) the ends of the cord wire first to make the the install into the aux receptacle easier

[@eastontanner6919]

Might be a dumb question, but what exactly is the 'auxiliary output" for? I always see it on vintage Fender amps, and don't know what it does/ what it's for.

[@TheGuitologist]

Usually those are included in modern amps as a way of sending a high impedance signal to a mixing board or other stereo equipment. Usually they are RCA jacks.

[@nathanmayo7101]

I saw no attempt to discharge any capacitors that might be waiting to administer a death shock. Is this not a concern here?

[@DWinegarden2]

The way to go it to remove all of the old auxiliary plug and install a new removable three prong lead in the hole. It’s a game changer, cleaner power.

[@tommyz9018]

Thanks for the info and lol the Seinfeld reference:)

[@icebob8555]

I gotta radio shack tube pa I’m gonna do this to

[@valvenator]

Hey Brad! ... I have that same exact chopstick! .... WOW! .... how cool is that! Silliness aside, very good video.

[@tikabass]

One important safety step you forgot: When testing the power cable with your ohmmeter. Attach one side of the meter to the chassis and first test the ground lug on the plug for continuity. The ohmmeter should read less than a ohm. This tests the wire, ground prong, your nut AND lock-washer arrangement, your crimp, and the contact of the chassis with the ohmmeter itself. Forget this step and other measurements are not valid.

[@silasfatchett7380]

An extra nut as a lock nut on the ground connection bolt would be more secure.

[@yernickle]

What if the back and white wires are reversed?

[@shckltnebay]

Why put two wires together when you could just solder one of the trans leads to a terminal?

[@garyeggleton1142]

You dont use strain reliefs? they are a pain to install with pliers

[@TheGuitologist]

I like using 16AWG wire and a retainer on the cabinet instead.

[@garyeggleton1142]

guess I should have finished video first.....that is great info for me

[@peterhurst6263]

I’d love to know how you’re doing it differently these days since you say you have changed your procedure. All the videos on here are out of date and show like 5 different ways to do it. All with retractors in the comments bashing certain elements of each video. I now can do it 5 different ways but I’m not sure about any of them.

[@randyjamz1448]

Sorry, but this ALWAYS looks 'hacky' to me. The round grommets do not offer any prevention of the AC cord spinning around and around, even with a zip tie. I realize there are many ways to skin that cat, but an 18-gauge wire AC cord and reusing the Heyco clip just looks better, and looks far more professional. Of course YMMV, and this is all just one person's opinion. I apologize in advance if this offends anyone.

[@TheGuitologist]

No offense taken whatsoever, and I agree with you for the most part. I do always use a cabinet retainer, so the cable can't spin like you pointed out. But you're right, the smaller gauge works fine with the original retainer. I've been known to do it that way too.

[@randyjamz1448]

I feel a little better. ;) I hate starting a war of words, but sometimes the passion gets in the way of 'think twice, speak once.' The absolutely WORST example is watching Gerald Weber's DVD. Really bad. But you can't stop it once it's out in the wild. You can only hope people check multiple sources, and be professional. I always referred people to the Uncle Spot website for that procedure, but sadly Ron is not on the Internet any more. If this works, this is the pictorial that I found that someone else saved. bb.steelguitarforum.com/userpix0903/5857_3prongconversion_1.jpg

[@brich2929]

why is the ground switch still used in that drawing?

[@RandyHouk]

@@randyjamz1448 Thanks for this pictorial!

[@harrycook163]

Randy Jamz you. An make this foolproof but not DAMB foolproof

[@krustybuzzard2477]

Wireing has always scared the shit out of me because I've never understood it.can you tell me why in simple terms how come you don't just put the hot and natural where suppose to go and just add the ground wire and be done with it .remember I'm stupid here. I have a 59 twin that I need to do this to

[@TheGuitologist]

Because the way most vintage amps, including Fenders, are wired originally, the switch is on one side of the transformer and the fuse is on the other. What you want is for the black hot wire (which carries the 120VAC) to run first through the fuse. That way if there is a problem, the fuse blows and nothing else is electrified with 120VAC. Placing the switch in series right after the fuse ensures that while the amp is OFF the 120VAC goes no further into the transformer or anything else. This eliminates potential points of failure or arching. The ground switch definitely should be removed, along with the death cap. They serve no function in an amp with polarized, grounded plug.

[@krustybuzzard2477]

The Guitologist if I made that type of a mod on my amp it could could mind you ruin the value amongst the collectors it's worth up to $14000.00

[@TheGuitologist]

Adding a 3-prong power cord to a vintage amp is not a detriment to collector value, in my opinion. But if you're that worried about it, get a professional to do it.

[@krustybuzzard2477]

The Guitologist I'll probably never sell it as it was left to me from my dad but one never really knows.and I do trust your judgement I was planning in doing it anyway.loli just don't want to do something that is irreversible if ya catch my drift I'm on your side.

[@mal2ksc]

Pushing things around with your soldering iron is why your iron is bent. You may consider this not a significant problem, and I certainly have done the same thing, but it does take its toll over time.

[@BM0v0]

I want to do this with my 1965 Fender Showman amp but I want to do it right or give it to a reputable person. I've been shocking myself way too much when I touch anything metallic and it will get rid of this electrical static noise when the guitar isn't touched by my hand. Otherwise, it sounds clean.

[@seattleday9690]

Mine just broke on my fender rad amp.

[@BourneAccident]

I might be missing something here, but isn't that fuse always hot? Even when the power switch is off? Wouldn't it be better to bring the hot leg directly to the switch and THEN to the fuse? The way it's done here, someone could turn off the amp and think power to the fuse is off as well and maybe zap themselves? Just sayin'...

[@jeffs7482]

It’s a good question, and he answers it early in the comments stream.

[@andyfuchs5252]

An actual IEC socket can be used in the same hole with no drilling and the power cord would be removable and safer than this dangerous method. Too many things wrong with this....no true strain relief, wiring is wrong (live wire should go to tip of fuseholder, then to the switch. The ground should be soldered not wired through the transformer bolt. This may be better than a stock 2-prong, but it's not code-correct and done poorly.

[@rjschmirler3794]

I think any good tech would not ground to the TX lug due to flex that always happens with a fender chassis. Ground wire should always be a bit longer to ensure it’s the last thing that comes off the circuit if there is a hard cord pull. And c'mon... a grommet to hold the AC cord? How about a strain relief in there?

[@andyfuchs5252]

An actual IEC socket can be used in the same hole with no drilling and the power cord would be removable and safer than this dangerous method. Too many things wrong with this....no true strain relief, wiring is wrong (live wire should go to tip of fuseholder, then to the switch. The ground should be soldered not wired through the transformer bolt. This may be better than a stock 2-prong, but it's not code-correct and done poorly.

[@stevenkimsey7039]

I have a 74 Fender Champ that needs servicing and a 3 prong cord. The amp has never been touched by a Tech or anyone else. If I get my lips too close to the microphone I get shocked

[@robertdivittorio9857]

I punched in about the different colored wires on a deluxe 85 your video doesn't even talk about the on off switch

[@johnmiller9219]

8:20 i put super glue on those threads. That's just me

[@tpaairman]

Not to be rude, but using a grommet is not the right way to go about this. You need to use a strain relief. Even with the zip tie, the cord can still rip out of the amp. A strain relief will hold the cord much better.

[@Zargon314]

Doesn't he say in the video that he adds one in addition to the zip tie? No such thing as overkill when it comes to ripping a power chord out of an amp.

[@ianaintsaying1625]

Screw using grommets. Use an IEC receptacle. Better yet use a fused IEC receptacle instead.

[@andyfuchs5252]

You are correct. Not right. An actual IEC socket can be used in the same hole with no drilling and the power cord would be removable and safer than this dangerous method. Too many things wrong with this....no true strain relief, wiring is wrong (live wire should go to tip of fuseholder, then to the switch. The ground should be soldered not wired through the transformer bolt. This may be better than a stock 2-prong, but it's not code-correct and done poorly.

[@tjminasi1442]

Never connect a hot wire to a fuse without wiring in a DPST switch first!! Lots of extra wire lingering about.

[@dennisgreen1837]

A proper strain relief is required for a power cord. A grommit is not sufficient even with that feeble zip tie. While the UL listing is voided, one should follow their standards, which don't accept depending on the external cabinet clamp. Also, the ground wire must be long enough so that if the cord is pulled hard enough to break connections, the hot will break before the ground. This is all due diligence to make your lawyer happy should a customer ever sue you.

[@TheGuitologist]

You are correct.