THE RIGHT WAY TO INSTALL A DUCTLESS MINI-SPLIT

This video shows how to properly build and connect flare fittings for a R 410a ductless mini split system. Allied complete furnace and AC repair 206 604 0092. Thank you Pete for shooting this video :)

[@johnwright9622]

In the video, James is very diligent in suggesting that the installer follow all manufacturers recommendations. However, when torquing the flare cones on the copper (hi &low pressure) to the valves on the condenser unit, he failed to use a "backup" wrench to secure the valve assembly, preventing the possible breakage or cracking of the brass assembly. All photos and written installation instructions I've seen depict a wrench, held in one hand securing the calve, and another holding the torque wrench. Not wanting to nit-pick, but this is an essential part of the installation process.

[@markgilder9990]

Thanks for taking the time to make the video. I’m from the UK and our summers are getting hotter, so I took the plunge and invested in a split system. Just about to make the connections, so this came in really handy.

[@izzydizzy1115]

Great video. Showing the importance of using the proper tools and procedures to insure a quality job! Definitely a professional grade job!

[@da_Luv_U]

I installed my system a few years back and watching your video had me worried as I didn't use the short robust flare nuts that came with the unit. Instead I used a long flare nut made by Parker that was recommended to me by someone who does air conditioning but seems a lot thinner than the ones I replaced. I went ahead and looked up the specs and found the nuts rated for 1400 psi (1/4") and 1000 psi (3/8") so I am good. wheewwww! You had me worried for a minute!

[@al3645]

This was great. Nice to see someone actually flare and torque. Thanks so much.

[@sspeachey]

Love the fact that you demonstrate the details of forming a proper flare and how to correctly tighten the connectors. I noticed that at least of this date 8 folks did not like your approach but I did not see their comments. I can appreciate that some folks are unkind and disrespectful but can you summarize what these folks had against your approach. Thanks Steve

[@alliedcompleterepair]

No

[@ecup1]

Nice video. One suggestion. When you cut then deburred the line I always try to have the open end down so nothing has a chance to get fall into the open line. That is safer than hoping your taping the line will get out anything that fell inside.

[@williammackey7243]

This has been the best video on mini split flare fittings I have seen as of yet. May I request you film an instruction on a correct mini split evacuation?

[@michaeldevaney2804]

I would love to see a video for diy’er about how to use the pressure gauges and pump before refrigerant is released

[@anthonyspadafora1384]

The problem with ductless is not the flare fittings, it is the tubing. Refrigeration tube is type L and it is made with a standardized wall thickness. These premade line sets are half the thickness (I have measured the tubing with a thickness gauge) and make a paper thin flare. We started using a double flare and have had 100% success rate. We have both a hydraulic Master Cool and a standard Ridgid double flare. We tend to use the Ridgid because it is easier to handle on the ladder. Double flares are used on brake lines that operate at 3000 psi and extreme temperatures. Another plus of the double flare is you don't have to ream out the tubing and get the filings into everything. The double flare rolls the tubing over top of itself and puts the ream ridge to the back of the fitting where it doesnt come in contact with the face of the flare.

[@HVACUncensored]

I am also a HVAC Tech. I do like your video and your 100% correct about using a torque wrench and using a proper 410 flare nut which are more heavy duty. But a proper flare is a proper flare no matter what it's for if the proper flare nut is used. A 410 flare no different than any other besides the nut or cone! Just my opinion but overall great video I do agree most guys don't show the proper steps or techniques the manufacturers want. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@djackart4491]

I just came across an I.S.O. Bubble Flaring Tool kit - is it for HVAC work? Thanks in advance - also liked your attention to details.

[@SovereignTroll]

What about the angle difference, 37 vs. 45 degrees? The fitting on the new unit is 45 degrees if the author is accurate.

[@jprowell77ify]

Very well explained, you should do another video on checking the system for leaks and proper pressuring, if you haven't already. DIY guys like myself look for guys like you, we can always tell when someone knows what there talking about VS being full of hot air. Thanks for the good info.

[@smokinjoe187]

By far the most informative video i have seen on you tube...thanks again!

[@summitm18hvac90]

If people would read the instructions that came with it, they tell you EVERYTHING you need to know. How many inches the indoor head needs to be from the ceiling, what size of wire needed, etc.

[@SakisN2]

Nice video, it looks like you trust more the tools that your experience as a tech, no tool ever will make anyone a professional of any kind.

[@jimwrathall5323]

Excellent video. Good step by step instructions. However, I second Mr Rickard's concern, regarding oil on the surfaces. I like to use an assembly lube product called Nylog, AKA: "Snot". I replaced a unit that I had installed 10 years previous, and the Nylog was still viscus as when I first put it on. And it was still just like snot.

[@drewgsands]

HVAC tech installed 1,000's in South America with a high quality flare tool. Not one failure. Tool is great for someone that needs a clutch I guess. Use Nylog also but I guess you need service calls in the future.

[@karmatias11]

For everyone watching, this is a 10 minute video on how to flare a line and torque down a nut.

[@davidr.massey419]

Just a good alternative solution for your fittings mentioned in the first of your video. The products i'd use are called "Swageloc". Did 3,000$ worth of business with them for a tricky vacuum system 10yrs back. The cool thing is they send two wrenches(very small for tight spaces), these are just turned 1&1/4 turn(easy hand turn) and a vacuum that is good for even scientific limits can very easily be installed. Look for a dealer. I use "H.E.Lennon" Freeway Drive, Farmington, Michigan . SouthEAST Mich. dealer. Swageloc has a huge catalog(hardbound is 3&1/2" thick, and their flashdrive catalog takes up a lot of space on your computer). Lucky enough to have the dealer so close a drive for me.

[@jdubya54]

Need to hold fitting while you torque line, but excellent fine points. Thanks

[@timothydannenfelser7474]

That's a really good tutorial. Thanks.

[@johndough1738]

Great video and one of the most informative online. People that are using oil on threads are screwing up their install! No sense in using a torque wrench once you add lubricant to threads, just use a couple big wrenches and jam it down! Daikin says to use a small amount on the rear of the flair, none on the face or threads or face of flair. Do it right or don't do it.

[@derekameduri3272]

Good video. I like to put some vacuum pump oil on my finger and put it on the inside of the flair nut, cause when you torque it down the flair fitting likes to bite the copper and could also cause a leak.

[@ranger5697]

Informative and helpful expertise advise. The only problem a DIY'er like myself has is purchasing $200 or more worth of tools for a one time install. Flaring tool, tongue wrench, vacuum pump and gauges of any quality to do the job right are expensive only to be sold on eBay at a loss. Finding a contractor interested in doing the small job is also difficult and expensive. A guy really needs a friend in the heating/air conditioning business that will do the hook up for a six pack.

[@JDOG1974yes]

yes, the Yellow Jacket 60650 flaring tool is the most important at $120.00 on Amazon. Vacuum pump $75.00 Harbor Freight with coupon. Yellow Jacket 60650 Torque wrence $109.00 on Amazon. One ton mini split Kit. Pioneer 12,000 BTU. WYS012AMF117RL . I don't recommend going smaller then 12,000 BTU. And 18,000 BTU for larger rooms.

[@natknowles108]

JDOG 1974 The flaring tool is 60295 rather than 60650, correct?

[@f.hababorbitz]

You do NOT need to purchase super expensive flaring tools. As a DIY, you need to practice making the flare many times before committing to making it on the unit. See HVAC forum discussion (hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread.php?1129901-R410-A-flaring). A quality tool will help (and compensate for under practiced operation). But locking in on $100+ tools is not an absolute requirement. When I was learning (NDSSS now NDSCS) back in 1976 how to flare, it was easy to over tighten the flaring tool leaving thinned out flare cone, that received additional damage when the flare nut was tightened. Long term, the vibration of the condensing unit will indicate the quality of the flare fitting, and if the installation produced strain on the joint causing premature failure. The intent of this video by a professional HVAC tech. is intended to scare you into hiring one for your install. Only you know what your skill level is in proper workmanship. Look at all the Hack HVAC videos on this site, as not all "PRO's" are.

[@isotac7789]

Making your friend work for a 6 pack is not being much of a friend.

[@cleatusspengler2940]

My thoughts exactly- I am considering one of these and outside of the last 10% of the job I dont need any help at all, but alot of the guys wont come out to pressure check it and flare it for $50.

[@HiTechDiver]

The only thing that concerns me is when you torqued the flare nut, you did not support the fitting. Couldn't that torque and compromise the assembly?

[@Jimmy-wv9oq]

He did a good vidio . but yes support the assembly

[@cengeb]

@@Jimmy-wv9oq Double Wrench it, always

[@786otto]

Good video , stil I would sugest to hold other part of fitting with a rench.

[@pauljewel6988]

One thing I saw right away is the distance from the wall to the unit , you need to have more for the air circulation, I put mine at the very edge, and yes it did sage down till I put in extra self tapers at the connection of the angle bracket while lifting the unit

[@davidrickard1012]

Don’t you put oil on the surfaces? And why don’t you back wrench the valve when tightening?

[@MCRideout]

The right way to film a youtube video... .(turns phone sideways)

[@davidadams60]

When will people learn?

[@robertsample42]

David Adams : I agree 100% 👍!!!

[@Diebog]

Good video, but I thought the common practice was to torque down and then back off and re torque ? And just a suggestion but maybe share the part numbers for the tools your using?

[@OcRefrig]

Good Vid. u Never mention that the flare Degree angle for some mini splits is different than a Regular Refrigeration flare Block Also. Regular refrigeration flare Block is 30 Degree Flare. i Believe the Flare Block for R-410a is 45 Degree. So, there is Quite a difference there. and that need to be checked vs the unit u are installing and manufacturer.

[@bradburwick2049]

I have same flaring tool. I could not get 1/4’ inch copper pipe to stay clamped. I tried 4 different tools. Ended up wrapping plumbers tape on pipe. It held then.

[@petemitchum3198]

Hey James, very informative video. I like your desire for things to be installed and done correctly. I wish you were in South Carolina. I am wanting to install about 10 of the Mitsubishi Mr. Slim units through out my older house, but am having trouble finding a reliable HVAC contractor to give me a quote, much less install them. They only want to install whole house units. Anyway, I really like the idea of purging the system with nitrogen to remove the moisture, therefore preventing problems with the compressor in the future. Would you consider doing a video on this process? Thanks!

[@alliedcompleterepair]

Thanks for the idea. I'll shoot one soon and post it to youtube.

[@jrandomwinner]

When you say flaring tools that are not specifically designed for R410a should not be used, I wondered. I looked at several installation manuals for mini-splits that use R410a, i.e. from Mitsubishi, Fujitsu, and Daikin. All of these manufacturers are saying in their installation manuals that "wing nut type" flaring tools such as the kind you refer to as the "cheap type you get in the hardware store", can be used if an installer uses these tools in a way they specify. They all say that what is important, with any flaring tool, is how much of the copper tube protrudes from the die. Mitsubishi supplies a chart specifying different lengths depending on tube diameter, whether the tool used is the wing nut type or the clutch type, and if the refrigerant is R22 or R410a. The others assume R410a, say nothing about tube diameter, and specify a certain length depending on which type of flaring tool is used. They all specify a certain length of protrusion from the die in each specific case. None of them say it is good enough to let the copper tube extend about a "hair" or "one sixteenth" out from the die. None of them say that installers can only use flaring tools specifically designed for R410a. Otherwise I agree with what you say - be careful and do the job properly with the appropriate materials and tools.

[@danc.5553]

Its not the flaring tool that is the issue. You need the proper nut for 410A and of course a quality tool will be best to make a good flare.

[@audiophilephile]

I heard no mention of putting some refrigerant oil on the threads of the flare cone. Did I miss it? Torquing requires the proper friction between the threaded pieces and will be correct only with oil if that indeed is the proper way to do it as I seem to see in most videos on the subject of hooking up a mini-split.

[@lou704]

Thx for the pro tip.

[@nickwolf805]

No nylog? May I ask why you don’t use some type of thread sealant on your flared fitting?

[@johnkohler2372]

This is vital to watch before u have this unit installed. Thanks James. Mine failed on the flair that was not used. 3 zone used 2 zones. There is a cooper cap or cone where the fitting attaches, are you familiar with that part? I'm wondering if it came from the manufacturer like that or if that is something a tech would remove and replace during installation. Does unused zones need tested at time of installation? do u have to remove the fitting when installing the unit.i have Mitsubishi unit

[@LakayRicky]

Nice video. Can I separate the water drainage from the rest of the line going out side the wall AND JUST DIRECT THE WATER DRAINAGE STRAIGHT DOWN THE HOUSE TO A 2FEET CRAWL SPACE.

[@michaelmciver9132]

What brand is that torqueWrench? Nice video

[@mikecurranto4188]

Good video but seems to leave out a few important points. Especially the fact of why you use a HVAC flaring tool rather than a plumbing flaring tool, as noted below.Overlaps a 1/16 of an inch? There is a slide that is supposed to be placed on the corresponding tube size. You push the tube to the slide and you then have the right amount of tubing inserted in the flaring tube. Don't just guess.The video is badly named.

[@jayr49]

That's what u use on ac system and try using a double flaring tool for the forged flare nut it works better then single flare

[@A.Dude.]

I still need to ask if Daikin asks for dry torque, because you are doing it dry... LG, for example, specifically asks for wet torque and we all know that the values will be different if same torque is applied at wet and dry. Also, you look to be very specific about the pipe orientation, however it is recommended to have a loop on the lines just before the connection; you have no loop and again, I ask if this are Daikin guide-lines since I don't do Daikin. Have a good one. Oh, hi from Bellevue :)

[@NikoOkamoto]

Great video! Can Allied come out and do the final hookup/evac/pressure test on homeowner installs in your service area?

[@regiemcelroy3332]

I wish I had found this video before I installed my Pioneer single zone unit. I'm going to install a 3 zone system and use this information. I am looking for the plastic flare gauge any leads would be welcome. I did order the Yellow Jacket flare tool. Many Thanks

[@Saltbox97]

What it the proper distance the line needs to extend past the tool vice before engaging flaring cone? I know for auto brake lines there is an a adapter gauge for each line size to get proper distance. In the video the gentleman just eyeballed it and said “right there”. How do I know where “right there” was?

[@magicogar]

Correct me if i'm wrong, but isn't the unit too close to the wall? Isn't it supposed to be around 12" at least?

[@camerongallant9802]

nah it doesn't have to be any distance from the wall just enough to get pipes behind and to work on it but it doesn't make a difference to efficiency

[@justinmcintyre9648]

If mounted on the ground it has to be at least 12” from the wall. As this one is wall mounted, air flow is able to come from the bottom and all sides. Which makes this ok.

[@cengeb]

Nylog, makes things better

[@chulee9419]

where the outdoor unit installed? looks like inside the garage?

[@donaldrussell5752]

I plan on installing my unit myself because I'm on an island where AC tech 's have full mail boxes on their phone. That being said, can I just coil the excess tubing instead of cutting it to size ( one less mistake to make). Next I plan on torquing the fittings as I understand it is important over time. So next question is, can it bypass the nitro "test" and just assume if the vacuum holds all is good? Next question , will the use of nylog make install more forgiving for me? it is compatible with the 410a? so its not going to create a problem it it finds its way inside the tubing, right? Tools i will buy and resell ebay after , cheap vacuum pump, yellow jacket torque wrench, and the yellow jacket quage manifold with thee hoses? or just a vacuum gauge . I would like to buy a 12" line set, are they all good enough quality? or is there a preferred brand? Thanks for the feedback.

[@Rulusan]

Why not use Nylog blue? I use it all the time on flare fittings. May not be needed every time but certainly does not hurt.

[@scsteve7408]

Hey james according to the daikin installation manual they want to add refrigerant oil to the inner part of the flare before attaching to the service valve. Do you not believe that to be useful? Good video

[@rogerhunter5404]

I would add that a second wrench should be used to hold the valve on the unit when torquing the flare fitting. Not doing so is pretty much begging for a damaged valve.

[@summitm18hvac90]

Nylog. That stuff is sticky lol just installed 5 heads and 2 outdoor units. 1 outdoor has 3 heads while the other has 2.

[@SteveP-vm1uc]

When speaking of your flaring tool, you incorrectly said you'd feel when the clutch engages. Actually, is stalls by disengaging at a proper torque. Also, the final shape of the flare is made by torquing the cone between the fittings. This is what I did in the military and mil-spec is as high as we go. ;)

[@commercialelectrician133]

what was the clearance from the wall to the unit

[@davidr.massey419]

These fittings i mentioned can automatically join straight to straight because the fittings themselves are machined to flare& fit. They can join almost any english or metric sizes, with limitless combinations.

[@dswilliams69]

Thanks for the vid. I purchased the gauge today. The McQuay distributor said that McQuay flares are different than everyone else. I'm doing a Trane mini split. Is there something I'm not knowing?

[@ForwardGuidance]

James, How is it resolved when the ODU and IDU have different gas/liquid line size specs? I'm looking at specs for particular unit with 2 IDUs and while liquid line is same size, gas/vapor line is 3/8 on ODU and 1/2 on IDU. You seem quite the expert so thought you might know. Thanks.

[@churchcarvers354]

What do you think about using Nylog?

[@jayr49]

It's called a forged flare nut

[@dutchman2205]

Yellow Jacket all the way! 😜

[@richardcranium5839]

whats your thoughts on vertically rolling excess lineset on the units with the premade sets. lots of talk about it making an oil trap then starving the compressor.

[@tweb3282]

I install lots of these and use zoomlock tool best investment I ever made.

[@movietime111]

We live pretty far out in the country and can't find any tech familiar with mini split units. Is installing and charging one of these systems beyond the scope of diyer? looks like tools are probably costly

[@AZ-jz4ki]

Yes the flares are important but his explanation and reasoning is all wrong. The reason the flare nuts and flaring tools bought at your local hardware store don't work is because they are for plumbing. Plumbing flares are done at a 37 degree and refrigeration is a 45 degrees. He is doing the right things but giving all the wrong reasons

[@LO-cd7ze]

Fine Homebuilding: "The flare angle used for copper tubing in residential plumbing is 45°, while 37.5° is the standard in industry and automotive work." Pretty sure that's not quite right, as a lot of brake lines are also 45°, albeit a double flare is used for brake lines which have to hold a 1000psi or more. Anyway, most "plumbing" flare fittings I've seen are 45. I haven't found a good explanation of the difference between 410A and "plumbing" flare nuts/fittings- only to "use the ones with the unit"- no clear source that I can find on "special 410A" flare nuts or unions if you need extra.

[@endo9902]

The dude did not support the torque with another wrench to keep the stresses away from other connections.

[@bigbocapedro]

+1 for proper tools and + for careful work, -1 for no poe oil on the flare Connection

[@MichaelSharma10]

Hey James, I'm trying to find that plastic flare tester gauge and am not having any luck. Do you have a vendor you can share?

[@NoelCEnriquez]

hey james ! 2 questions for you. as far as the condenser placement. i am not fan of having to see the unattractive lines on my wall so would it be ok to mount it on my flatroof?( aprox. 1' higher than my inside unit as far as the elevation is concern. i understand about the water drain being slope. question 2: what are the chances of me connecting my lines without bleeding the lines for air.

[@jjack6896]

I bet if I hire a professional HVAC company to install it they may have the proper tools but wouldn't use them? I was floored to find out they wanted $2500 labor to install one of these. I guess I could buy a couple of spares, skip the specialty tools and go for it, but thanks for showing us the proper way. The way everything is done where I live I would have to stand over them anyways to get the professions to do it right.

[@johndough1738]

Excellent video, now if you could do one for the pressure test and evacuate part.

[@freddyv7546]

Installers overcharge like crazy, I don't know many people who make 2500 in a few hours. I looked into central air for a 1 family 1632 sq. ft. house and the installers wanted between $18500-$22000, not including the electrical upgrade and taxes. I'll stick with mini split units.

[@freddyv7546]

@@johndough1738 check out Mr. Cool mini split units. It comes precharged and ready to install.

[@WallaceRoseVincent]

Awesome!

[@MrPancake0825]

Can you really ever get to the -76cmHg? Or do I have a leak in the system somewhere? I have had the vacuum pump on for 30 minutes and have not seen more than -73/-74. I don't have very high quality gauges like a pro would have. So could it be my gauge?

[@jasonb6116]

Should be labeled how to make a flare fitting. Didnt show evac.

[@jackmcdonald7391]

What happens if you torque it to factory specs and it still leaks?

[@fortinogonzalez2464]

Do I need to use a specific vacuum pump for all minisplit (from 7000 to 24000 btu)

[@MrShogun25]

I had one Putin but they keep 1/2 foot open all around unit I find I get dust its seals on ceiling but just with word in side roof its just held by 4 long bolts to meet ceiling he filled it on side with pink stuff fibreglass can hat be what in feeling in y thrght and we're does the air come from all in roff is ping fibreglass ekkk!! can this be what the unit is blowing all threw my home .. thanks for help

[@bagher1994]

Hi iam just woundering if i but a ac unit dose it come with fluid inside or do i have to add it my self

[@Johnyrocket70]

what kind of torque wrench is that?

[@lv5960]

thanks

[@eddymon2]

Can you mix brands ? I have gree and Panasonic outdoor units both 24000 and a friend has 2 mr cool indoor,

[@HoustonR6ryda]

grear vid

[@mo9488]

I have a $20 Harbor Freight torque wrench and am looking for the adapter for open end wrench for it. Does anyone know where to buy these? Also, when adding to the length of torque wrench have to adjust the torque downwards as you are increasing length.

[@teamdetail4942]

Harbor Freight carries crowfeet www.harborfreight.com/7-pc-38-in-metric-crowfoot-flare-nut-wrench-set-68999.html you will also need a 24mm crowfoot or you can get a complete set on amazon www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2580-8-Inch-Crowfoot-Wrench/dp/B000NPR2BC/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1538317995&sr=1-1&keywords=24mm+crows+foot

[@allanlogrono1463]

hi sir. my AC Lg Floor standing type aircinditioner have a problem. This is dual Fan in the outdoor unit and have 25,000btu. when i finished the vacuuming the system i charge the system initial charge 40psi. then after 3mins the compressor is running. i am obserbing the suction line it is little bit hot the same in discharge line insted of cool.. please help sir. any idea?

[@alliedcompleterepair]

consult the manual. Does it say to charge up to 40psi with refrigerant?

[@aivenimila3247]

I need a flare tool and wrench like that. where can I get them for a good price

[@josephgraham1065]

smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B016MEB65K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Only $35 dollars on amazon the one he uses is way more expensive but this does exactly the same for a third of the price

[@leanorlando]

Is that a CPS Torque Wrench?

[@alliedcompleterepair]

leanorlando here's a link for it: www.johnstonesupply.com/storefront/product-view.ep?pID=H27-419

[@ArBrDj]

What do you think about lubing the treads or using nylog?

[@alliedcompleterepair]

It's hard to say. It might help improve the flare connection but on the other hand it may contaminate the oil in the compressor. That poe oil likes to gum up so I wouldn't introduce any foreign chemicals into the system.

[@kevinsilva9637]

lubing or using a product like Nylog on the fittings of ductless heat pump or air conditioner (check your manual) is not the industry standard and usually is against manufacturer recommendations. following Mr. Colver's installation video will do alot better then not torquing correctly and slapping some oil on the flare. James Colver how do you feel about most ductless mini split manufacturers recommending double flaring the copper? The only tool i have come across is made by Yellow Jacket but I also know only about 5-10 % of the industry practices this. Also i noticed you are not using this technique but am not up to date on Daikens installations procedures for this and am curious on what they suggest.

[@anthonyhitchings1051]

your condenser looks to be too close to the wall for its best operation

[@cengeb]

Use Nylog!!!

[@billlegg4686]

oiling your flares is just as important as torquing flares. Most common mistake I see people make all the time.

[@artmanjamin]

i plan to get the mr cool 12,000 btu mini split and have a pro install it. The Mitsubishi is just too darn expensive. they want $5000 for a 15 x 14 room.

[@cengeb]

Mitsubishi are the best, super efficient, super quiet, heat down to -5 degrees outside air!!! is amazing

[@hotporsche4384]

landscape not portrait

[@patsyjarnigan8689]

hey guys are doing. I'm sure that the company is the test. I

[@janerikborge]

Awesome job! Do you use Nylog on your flare fittings? I noticed a video where an installer used a copper gasket at 1:33 kzbin.info/www/bejne/pam5l4mwrcecqNkm28s

[@robertkat]

Too many mistakes is the video.

[@TCBEperformance]

What a load of crap! I bet you cannot put a nail on the wall with out a specific correct hammer haha.

[@summitm18hvac90]

I agree to a point. Had me laughing when he said something about the flaring tool... I haven't had no issue with using the flaring tool I have. And my flares are better if not just as well as his. I have seen ALOT of videos of diy'ers installing mini splits. . Its not really good lol

[@TCBEperformance]

Thanks mate, well yes what I mean is that as much as I agree if you have the right tools you have a better chance to get the job done right, but the core of this video is almost saying without the right tools you cannot get the job done correctly, and that is untrue! Many fussy trades people do not need the better tools to do a good job, it comes down to experience and skills.

[@johnszymanski548]

Oil the face

[@SnickasBah]

john szymanski I read that too

[@adrianbrown7586]

the only right way to install it is to pick it up and put it in the trash can