The Rise and Fall of Tom Ford

Tom Ford is one of modern fashions most famous designers, transforming Gucci into the Gucci Group that we know today. But for his namesake turning that success into a fashion offering wasn't so easy and instead became quite boring and staid, relying more on perfumes and sunglasses than anything else. Now with the recent Estée Lauder sale we are potentially looking at a Tom Ford revival with new CD Peter Hawkings
Beauty Channel: / @underskinyt
Patreon: patreon.com/understitch

[@BrickWolfy]

5:50 why is this BCG matrix completely wrong? lol

[@understitchYT]

Its the pinned comment. I added it last minute and didnt read it properly

[@BrickWolfy]

@@understitchYT Comment doesnt show up for me but fair enough lol. Great video still and respect for responding to a comment on a month old vid with 250k views

[@understitchYT]

@@BrickWolfy I try to reply to all comments, but Ill look into the fact that comment isnt showing up for you, thank you for letting me know

[@understitchYT]

I think they deleted the comment, tysm for bringing my attention to it, Ill pin yours

[@neverhungryagain2187]

@@BrickWolfyI’m so confused

[@1970ricardoferrer]

Thank you ... I have been working for Tom Ford for the past 7 years at one of the boutiques here in the USA. Before it was announce to the public they sold the company Mr Ford had a conference call with all the his employees and expressed to all of us how grateful He was to us for our work and dedication to the company, He seem to be very kind man .

[@understitchYT]

Thats so thoughtful, how kind

[@valerieneal2747]

RICARDO...I CAN IMAGINE WHAT IT WAS A PRIVILEGE FOR YOU TO WORK FOR HIS COMPANY. SEVEN YEARS IS A LONG TIME TO WORK FOR ANYONE THESE DAYS, ESPECIALLY IN THE FASHION WORLD. FOR HIM TO RECOGNIZE AND RESPECT IN THE CONFERENCE THE FACT THAT HIS EMPLOYEES ARE THE BACKBONE OF THE COMPANY HE HAS CREATED DEFINITELY IS THE HALLMARK OF A FASHION DESIGNER WHO NOT ONLY LOVED WHAT HE CREATED...BUT COULD HAVE NOT DONE THIS WITHOUT YOU.

[@1970ricardoferrer]

@@valerieneal2747 He is a true gentleman.

[@broddablack5290]

He is

[@seana1293]

How do you like working for the company? Is the money good? I am thinking of applying

[@ray-mc-l]

Honestly, I'm glad he sold. I really, really, really want to see another Tom Ford movie. A few scenes in A Single Man were the film equivalent of running your hand over silk.

[@understitchYT]

Its also retained a lot of relevance which is quite astounding. He said later in an interview he had absolutely no idea thag initially people didnt believe he could do it and were gassing him 😂

[@lucia37425]

true! x

[@Lostinamomentillnevergetback]

A lot of my adult design inspiration came from this film

[@mehere337]

Did you miss Nocturnal Animals?

[@DNBon.an808]

@@mehere337 wish i did.

[@soshspotgames4380]

There is genuinely nothing on earth that can compare with a Tom Ford suit. I have exactly one, which I purchased nearly a decade ago now that is still utterly beautiful and in perfect condition. The entire experience of going to the flagship store, being fitted and advised, etc. It's something I will always remember. That one Tom Ford suit I own cost more than my entire wardrobe combined and I don't regret it. It demands attention without being flashy, it is sophisticated and elegant without being pretentious....it's just perfection.

[@understitchYT]

I would really like to see a TF and a Zegna suit together and up close to compare because Im so fascinated by it

[@lullemans72]

may i ask how much you spent on that suit? is it bespoke or MTM? i have never owned a TF suit and probably never will. but i do own a bespoke suit made by a renowned tailor here in tokyo where i live. i paid about 4000 USD around the time 4 years ago. i'm also currently in the process of having a new bespoke suit made by a different tailor, also around the same price point. if your TF suit makes you feel awesome, then all the more power to ya. but i would like to think that no brand name, not even TF, can ever come close to the level of fit and detail one can get from a fully hand made bespoke suit.

[@Rob.S-]

@@lullemans72 Stole the words from my mouth. NOTHING in the world compares to that level of craftmanship.

[@jaspreetsidhu5708]

​@@understitchYT I have both, the styling is unique to each brand. Tom ford is a bit more out there bigger lapels while the Zegna is a bit more classic. Fabric wise Zegna is better (for me I had mine custom made and had a choice in all fabrics). Fit and finish from stitching to seams is pretty much identical. I did have the option to have my suit finished in Switzerland or Italy (I did pick the couture factory). Which might be why. Honestly buy what makes you happy fit and finish wise. Both Zegna and Tom ford make amazing suits.

[@Zazzri]

Saville Row bespoke laughs in the face of Tom Ford suits. You have fallen for marketing and don't know real quality craftsmanship. They are machined not hand finished (like all cheap suits) and just slap marketing and a high price point to fool people like yourself.

[@omomo202]

His original perfume line was what really opened up my nose to “niche” perfumery. I don’t consider the TF fragrance line to be niche anymore, but his original private blends are STILL my absolute favourites! The quality and creativity blew my 29 year old mind at the time.

[@understitchYT]

I wish I could smell them. Im honestly not huge on perfume, but I love to hear and read about people that are passionate about their topic, and niche perfumery is such an interesting topic (thats why I really enjoy Erin Parsons)

[@rubyred93chev]

_His first endeavor into the perfume line was the 2006 creation of "Black Orchid Eau de Parfum'. (It was and still is a masterpiece...of which it's one of my favorites of his). And yes his Private Blends are some of the very best fragrances, comparable to very few other niche lines._

[@valerieneal2747]

@@rubyred93chev I AGREE, GENE.

[@marthas9255]

VIP boutiquey stuff is a whole other world indeed.

[@Slideyslide]

Agreed. I still use one of his for special occasions. Absolutely love it!

[@chigal0926]

I’ve always liked Tom Ford. He never came off snotty or diva like. His background is in architecture, so maybe that may have been an issue. But I can honestly say he had a respect for women.

[@understitchYT]

I think he was generally just more interested in men and wanted to show them something that they could find sexy, while still empowering the women to have their own sexual confidence (at least thats my interpretation of his work)

[@uhwhattt]

the shade in the way he says "a little Michael Kors-y"

[@understitchYT]

😶

[@tusia20_85]

@@understitchYT 🤭 I would love to see an analysis of Michael Kors.

[@understitchYT]

@@tusia20_85 honestly that video would be so interesting, their new strategy to turn the company around is fantastic

[@joshuaC.]

I winced a bit at that commentary

[@thedigitalodometer945]

“He”?

[@musicsavage]

Tom Ford, Marc Jacobs...they once had the fashion world wrapped around their fingers and now... This business is a beast that you continuously have to feed with new ideas and when you can no longer, you're the one eaten.

[@understitchYT]

sure, but thats just the nature of the fashion industry, its got planned obsolescence, so it's not like they didn't know their businesses wouldn't be the hottest thing forever. Marc is making a nice comeback atm now though with the platforms and Heaven (though thats also kind of falling off a bit)

[@missjosephine9292]

Once again you continue to deliver... Tom Ford is someone I have admired and respected for many years and I consider him a genius. I find you to be a great teacher with a voice and tone that keeps me focused. I learn alot from your videos and it's a great treat to have you on KZbin. Thank you.

[@understitchYT]

Im so glad you enjoyed the video 🙌🙌 i agree that tom ford is really a genuis businessperson too

[@DexterGautier]

I miss the Gucci Tom Ford era :(

[@abramova.a_style]

We all do

[@understitchYT]

The way it has RETAINED relevance is incredible

[@mesovogue]

Yes! 🥺

[@avskardi]

EVERYONE DOES.

[@mashadimsiza]

The best era by far

[@Maliceless100]

When a designer is talented in every area of his label's business except design, it's time to move on. I give him mad props for a steadfast belief in himself for one highwire project after another. At the end of his life, he won't regret all the things he didn't do (like most people); and this is the lesson he imparts so far.

[@understitchYT]

Perhaps thats why they stuck to suits for so long, so that they didnt have to worry about the design side

[@cowhidesunglasses]

Change the title to rise & rise TF will always live in my heart

[@sams3015]

@@cowhidesunglasses actually good point…I feel like Under-(person) could use that title if looking at the fragrance and cosmetics line for underskin

[@selenophile5256]

Sorry I am new to high fashion , if he wasn't good at design why did he make Gucci good again ? Didn't get design the dresses

[@understitchYT]

@@selenophile5256 Theres a difference between designing for commerciality and designing to innovate or to excite. Thats why he sometimes gets that criticism, because he's not a designers designer, its a marketeers designer. They both take talent imo, but thats why the argument is made

[@scpatl4now]

Thank you for another great video! I think one pattern that your videos show us is that in fashion, you can't really just coast along on your past laurels. This industry is always demanding that you push the creative envelope forward. On a separate note...have you ever considered doing a video on Halston?

[@understitchYT]

No company is safe from a fall, thats for sure, and a quickfire way to ensure it is resting (which is why everyones looking at chanel for an impending fall) and YES I have very very very much thought of doing a video on Halston

[@dimplesd8931]

I just put that TF is next gen Halston in a comment. It’s funny that when he was with Gucci you didn’t hear that comment often. It’s not a slight. It’s a affirmation that Halston designs were classics and could be reinterpreted for younger generations like Chanel has done.

[@rubyred93chev]

​@@dimplesd8931 _TF and HALSTON are/were great designers. (I'm sure somewhere their paths had crossed when a very very young New York savvy Tom Ford had visited Studio 54 where Halston held court). I don't think TF is in any way the next gen Halston whatsoever though. Halston went on to design the Halston III line for JC Penneys in 1983(which that same year 'Bergdorf' dropped him from their store entirely). I think personally when Halston decided to design for JCP, his name was forever cheapened(the next year, he pretty much lost control of his company). I have mad respect for Halston, but the comparison with Tom Ford is purely in designer name only. The TF name will live on in infamy(just as the name Estee Lauder has, and always will)!_

[@darrelsuarez]

omg everyone wake up new understitch, video

[@understitchYT]

My immediate thought to this was that 90s board game SSHH dont wake dad! Idk why🤷‍♂️

[@Carducci1959]

Tom Ford will always be remembered, design wise, for his contribution to the house of Gucci.

[@understitchYT]

Always

[@vaughnreedjr6592]

Gucci was popular brands before Tom Ford was there.

[@ead7154]

@@vaughnreedjr6592yes but if it wasnt for TM Gucci probably wouldn’t have made it through the 20th century and so forth

[@AceTheSkylord]

​​@@vaughnreedjr6592True. But Ford has made his contribution to the brand's legacy

[@LaraaCharlottee]

Amazing video! I found your channel about a month ago and have been obsessed ever since ❤️

[@understitchYT]

Im so glad! Tysm💕 Im glad you like the video too 🙌

[@bazgop]

Love all your videos, thank you for the hard work you put into them ❤

[@understitchYT]

I’m so glad you like them, thank you for watching 🥰

[@kham6006]

@@understitchYTdkny? Was the it girl then all went down hill-will you ever do one on her

[@sandramilfort9261]

Well done! well researched! You’re really the best for fashion business and history. I remember the great success he had with Gucci but was not so successful at YSL Pierre Berger loathed him and he was booed at the fashion show. He’s not a “designer” per se (he’s not creative or inventive like others in this field) but more of a businessman who offers great quality of clothes for those who can afford it. 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾

[@understitchYT]

Yes exactly, he was a designer for profits, not for creativity. Thats not to say that doesnt have amazing merits either, its arguably the best gucci era ever, his work is still adored today and his product quality is impeccable. A brilliant businessperson that dared to look at fashion from a different perspactive

[@harrytimmy5070]

​@@understitchYTI imagine they'd become a huge powerhouse with Zac Posen. They practically fit each others puzzles

[@francescaestelle2886]

Tom Ford was one of the 1st high fashion brands that i got into. So classy & stylish.

[@understitchYT]

Quite a unique positioning for sure, very interesting

[@sylph7777]

This channel is simply brilliant. Thank you

[@understitchYT]

Im glad you like it, thank you 👑

[@krisnoffpadua6619]

Amazing video and a very informative look at his manufacturing.

[@understitchYT]

Im glad you liked it 🙌

[@meowcenary21]

Your video on Rare Beauty was an eye opener on the other channel.

[@understitchYT]

Thank you, Im glad you liked it, a lot of research went into it (obviously)

[@peterlangendorff9846]

Another phenomenal job from understitch!

[@understitchYT]

Thank you so much 🙌

[@FlyingSnow1509]

Love the extra details in the video. And just notice how much he was influenced by old YSL. Massive influence. Thank u!

[@understitchYT]

Its such a shame Yves hated him so much

[@FlyingSnow1509]

@@understitchYT that’s true(

[@sito7186]

He was also very influenced by Halston

[@valerieneal2747]

@@understitchYT I KNOW...NEVER COULD FIGURE THAT OUT...SMH.

[@roefyi]

I've learned so much just from watching your videos. I would like to see how you analyze a new label with everything you know. I think someone would benefit from know what it takes to build a label to the caliber that a person like you would appreciate

[@understitchYT]

I am thinking of doing a video soon about a new brand actually, Ive just been waiting for a good name to announce a brand launch

[@maleykahs9766]

Thank you for detailed information

[@understitchYT]

Glad you enjoyed 🙌

[@sams3015]

Great video, I love Tom Ford but it’s definitely one of those brands better know for it’s perfumes & eyewear

[@understitchYT]

Oh for sure. Its actually quite hard to get a hold of his clothing offering

[@milostich8323]

Lol huh? My enitre wardrobe is TF and its some of the noces clothes youll ever find

[@sams3015]

@@milostich8323 that might be true for you but it doesn’t dismiss the fact he is definitely and undoubtedly more known for its eyewear & fragrance and that his stuff isn’t as readily available

[@wintermute8315]

​@@sams3015Nope. If you'd said the name to me, I would have said "suits", not fragrances or eyewear.

[@ArisaMori]

Makeup too. The best lipsticks. My makeup products are exclusively Tom Ford.

[@insulaarachnid]

Tom Ford's fashion always seemed so sensual and sexy to me.

[@understitchYT]

Its interesting how that prevails as the brand legacy when that obviously nearly all comes fromt he advertising and marketing

[@insulaarachnid]

@@understitchYT For me the silky shirts, velvet jackets & various sparkly stuff infused my perception of his brand. It looked so sexy to wear and touch!

[@DrRDW]

​@understitchYT that's because if you look at the fine detail in all of his ventures, Tom Ford is a marketing genius. He had a vision and knew how ro market it. Very similar to Steve Jobs. These are marketing gurus. The most successful businessmen in their industries.

[@martijnkeisers5900]

And another great video! ❤

[@understitchYT]

Tysm 🤌

[@lalc2883]

I love Tom Ford. He is one of the most important designer of those last 30 years. He has achieved a lot... I think he is a great designer. People like sometimes to diminish his contribution and say that he was more of marketing genius or stylist but I remember very impressive dresses, interesting coats and tailoring and also a bold taste. He is a designer who never shied away from challenging taste... He was a commercial designer and he was great at that. Valentino is a legend in fashion and his ambition has never been more than designing beautiful clothes for rich ladies. There's something noble about being a commercial designer and being good, extremely good at that. I loved YSL by Tom Ford. I really think that he became a designer with a capital D once he was exposed to the Ateliers in Paris. His designs pre-2001 were simple, well made, ambitious in style but never in cut or execution. He designed some of the best and ambitious collections of his career for both YSL and Gucci between 2001 and 2004. But YSL was a bit doomed. They bought all the licences and it impacted the growth of the brand. It was selling but not at the level of Gucci. Thankfully, his era allowed the finances of YSL to become more clean. Stefano continued the job and Slimane took the brand to another high. Unfortunately, I think that when he started his own brand, he wasn't consistent in his confidence. His vision for menswear and beauty was edgy in 2005 (Niche fragrances weren't the norm in the mainstream market and hyper luxe bespoke inspired designer menswear either). I think that he lacked confidence doing womenswear... This was a designer who dominated fashion from the late 90's to the mid 00's and during the gap between his exit from Gucci and comeback to his own brand, his repertoire was kept in style by the generation that grew up admiring him ( Alexander Wang, Proenza Schouler...etc). Every season, we would see glimpse of his heritage in the catwalk. It felt like he didn't want to compete with his glorious past by first not showing in Paris or Milan and by doing those off-seasons, very evening wear oriented collections when fashion was moving to a more casual and daywear oriented direction. I also feel like his personal life had more impact on his business and maybe he lacked focus. He moved to LA, directed a movie between womenswear collections, showed in NYC and London... I think he had some great moments at his own brand but maybe people had unrealistic expectations from him. Nevertheless, I like that his brand is going forward. He has a legacy in fashion and has build the perfect structure to support a luxury operation. I hope they will stop showing in NYC though.

[@understitchYT]

This was a great comment, thank you, I agree with what you said, he did do a great job at streamlining YSL so that Hedi could really boost the company, and I agree people expected too much of him. But ultimately, it was his job to meet those expectations and eventually he did (imo) with the very intimate shows, really pushing that new, openly exclusive kind of luxury. Im glad to see his business will continue into the future, even if it is without him, and I hope they can turn around the finances (my guess is with a push on licensed products) to bring back Tom Ford to the height it really deserves

[@lalc2883]

@@understitchYT It's all a matter of creative direction after all. What he was clever to do when selling the brand to ESTEE LAUDER was to involve all his historic partners (ZEGNA and MARCOLIN). It means consistency in terms of quality and marketing as it's business as usual and because the positioning of those partners is luxury, it's in their interest to maintain the exclusivity of the brand. They have diversified the brand already to the max with Tom, from underwear to timepieces so now, they have to make it stronger in terms of creative direction and merchandising. Zegna is doing a great job with Thom Browne but they have always struggled to make AGNONA happen. They really have the opportunity to do something great with this brand.

[@understitchYT]

@@lalc2883 This is a really good point actually, it certainly was a great idea

[@eden20111]

His cologne Tom Ford Noir is my absolute favorite. It’s expensive but well worth it and lasts me years. I get compliments all the time.

[@understitchYT]

His perfumes are legendary

[@tonimontana5153]

Good and interesting video! Thank you.

[@understitchYT]

Glad you enjoyed it 👑

[@rubyred93chev]

_Recently subscribed to your channel as your content is well articulated and researched. (I know your series of 'The Rise, and Fall/Rise' is a big part of your channel's cache). That said, I honestly don't think a man that sold his company for 2.8 billion dollars last year has fallen in any way. For me personally, I've been enjoying his 'Private Blend' line since its inception. As far as his clothing line, even for me, it's out of my price range for the most part. (I do have a few gems of his though in my arsenal of ensembles). What I know for sure is that his fragrance/make-up/skin care lines will still remain beyond successful for several decades. ( In 2021 his company grossed something like 650+ million dollars). I will continue to support any and everything in his 'Private Blend' fragrance line, plus his regular fragrance line. TF hands down has the very best fragrances on the market today!_

[@understitchYT]

In honesty I did umm and err about rise or fall as the second word. But because they potentially havent made a profit since 2019, I felt it was unfair to call this a rise when other companies that have less chance to make a profit and arent I have called ‘fall’. The company has a lot of brand equity and I dont doubt that it will restructure and come back to the zeitgeist very strongly, but for now the company is on a bit of an unsure footing

[@rubyred93chev]

@@understitchYT _Very well said. I think from a retail clothing line perspective, you're absolutely correct. But from a cosmetic and fragrance line point of view, I don't believe Estee Lauder would have spent 2.8 billion dollars if they thought the name TOM FORD was on unsure footing?_

[@understitchYT]

Youre right, its the fashion side thats on unsure footing. The fragrances arent what they were, but Im sure they're still profitable, and they have enormous potntial, I think thats what contributed to the price of sale

[@rubyred93chev]

@@understitchYT _Again, what keeps a house fresh is new releases. Going back to 2022 his fragrance line saw the relaunch of 'Bois Marocain', the launch of Noir Extreme Parfum, and the launch of two new cherry fragrances: Cherry Smoke, and Electric Cherry. For 2023, just recently: Grey Vetiver Parfum(which smells so amazing). The fragrance line the size of TF will always be relevant and sale's worthy(be reminded the sales numbers of the fragrances are not made public knowledge, so your assertion is strictly speculating)._

[@mkcmkc83]

This seems to confirm what I thought of Tom Ford’s work in terms of design. His work starts of a bit bold but is ultimately one note as it seemed for Gucci and the Tom Ford labels. Good enough products backed by exceptional branding and marketing. Btw, you might need to double check your BCG Matrix, they seem incorrect. The high-high is on the top left and doesn’t match the high-high locations of the arrows. The bottom row are both low-lows.

[@understitchYT]

I know about the BGC thank you, it was a last minute add in because I felt the video needed movement. Unfortunately because of that I didnt read it so its all wrong, but luckily a lot of people noticed and I pinned a comment saying exactly that

[@radiohill]

I don't consider becoming a billionaire after you decide to sell your business a "fall".

[@understitchYT]

Its not about the man, its a video about the business 🤌

[@cms3000]

​@@understitchYT about the business is 2,8 billions 😂

[@eschaefer6512]

I think the clothing will eventually be dropped in favor of the perfume and cosmetics.

[@understitchYT]

It looks like it yeah. Or they will introduce their own signature and will build the business around it

[@3zoOzBarCa]

great vid, felt you didn’t showcase the importance of the fragrances line which is pretty big for the brand

[@understitchYT]

I had actually originally thought of doing a whole video on the fragrances on my beauty channel, thats why

[@suno8911]

Fantastic as always. A detail though: it was Maurizio Gucci that was murdered - not Guccio Gucci (his grandfather) as stated at 0:59

[@understitchYT]

Yes, you are right

[@dgotguts]

Just found this channel but god do I love it gotta keep these types of vids going you putting a 19 yr old on fr!!!!!!!!

[@understitchYT]

That makes me so happy, I can’t wait for you to see what I have coming for fashion week 🙌

[@dimplesd8931]

Merry May Christmas to me! A new Rise and Fall 🥳 I loved classic Tom Ford. To me he did next gen Halston in his heyday at Gucci. His brand may have diminished but you still see his silhouette and designs as they have… (Miranda Priestly voice) “Trickled down into the secondary markets. Where I dug it out of a bin at Banana Republic”. 🤣❤❤❤

[@understitchYT]

🎄🎄🎄 His influence in fashion was really huge back then for sure

[@lauralaladarling3775]

Thank you so much. I really appreciate your awesome videos on the history and their head designers of renowned haute couture and ready to wear collections of Fashion Houses. I can't imagine why the Tom Ford name, especially as his collections were uninspired, repeatedly similar to older collections and generally failing was worth £2.8 billion to Estee Lauder! It seems ironic that Tom Ford is protective over his desighn creations when they were losing money and panned by the fashionista press. Xxx

[@understitchYT]

Its most definitely for the perfumes. They really hold an interesting luxury position in fragrance that even other luxury fashion houses have been unable to secure

[@1kontrabida]

Love the insights and the flow of this video. The beauty about Tom Ford pieces and or designs are timeless not to mention the fit and finish is on point imho, not more of a "in the moment" designs. Theres just something unique when u line up Tom Fords with others hence i chose the brand and with that said i'd go where Tom Ford goes.

[@understitchYT]

will you follow him if he takes it to another brand for a guest spot? Or loyal to the brand specifically (or both)

[@1kontrabida]

@@understitchYT Both why? I met Tom way back when I couldn’t even afford any luxury brand long story short from brief meeting he made me realize no matter how famous or rich you are u have to keep your foot on the ground, he wasn’t ur Hollywood snob celeb, hence when I could afford to buy his line I did and still do because it reminds me to be humble …sounds corny but it’s the truth .

[@understitchYT]

@@1kontrabida Meet your heros sometimes is good advice

[@kodman619]

Tom Ford suits, shoes, sunglasses, and men’s jackets are the absolute best as it relates to design, fabric, quality, and overall look. Nothing compares… he has a strict rationale for his designs and that is why he’s been such a success.

[@understitchYT]

quality over quantity

[@Writer341]

Everything you named is the reason for why his brand is falling. His name is all over the place. Remember what happened to Halston

[@peterhawley7179]

@@Writer341 The styling of his mens suit is beyond compare. Perhaps the brand should streamline a little, but then again it's the suits (and men's style) that are first and foremost the most important thing of everything the Ton Ford brand is about. If I remember correctly, at first Tom Ford (the brand) was only menswear, no womenswear collection.

[@Writer341]

@@peterhawley7179 I hear you but his first collections were women’s wear. He started the men’s collection a little later after. Either way, his brand has reached its peak. The only thing keeping it alive now are the fragrances. The clothing looks outdated and some are unwearable.

[@Writer341]

@@understitchYT I believe he sold the company because it reached its peak. He didn’t want to end up like Halston.

[@thebrothaj]

my fingers are crossed for the peter hawkings era of tom ford… hoping that he can move the brand forward with reverence but infuse it with some new energy. tom ford (the man) is for me, one of the last great personalities of fashion in the vein of ysl, valentino, alaia and (of course) lagerfeld.

[@understitchYT]

I hope he keeps the spirit of the company alive for sure, but I also hope that they can evolve the style to something that is more his work. I dont want a mens version of Virginie Viard 😂

[@KuoChiawen05]

His touch with Bond clothes was genius.

[@understitchYT]

Oh definitely

[@jakecavendish3470]

I don't especially love his clothing but I admire his work ethic!

[@understitchYT]

His work ethic is incredible and his talent for business is very admirable

[@rhy8336]

the asthetic can be translated to many sectors like womenswear and beyond it just needs a steady hand that isn’t going to far for the dollar. I mean they are in that way a hyper luxury brand but it will also require some risk taking which I hope the new owners recognize. And I think we might just be ready for a mini Tom ford renaissance

[@understitchYT]

I agree, its a very transferable aesthetic and as long as they can take risks and allow it to evolve then they can make a very stable business even after Toms gone

[@rhy8336]

@@understitchYT keep it up:) would love a Valentino vid!

[@AskMiko]

Awesome video!

[@understitchYT]

Thank you 🤌

[@hey_itspatrick]

Awesome exposé!👌🏼

[@understitchYT]

I dont think of it like an exposé, I think of it more like an analysis

[@re7416]

Hello Understitched, Great video, as always. (How can I contact u regarding paid brand Consultancy 🤔) Thnx in advance.

[@understitchYT]

My emails are always open, address on my YT about page

[@justjohnmusicchannel8327]

how aer you suppose to read their built in Closed Captioning ? It flipsd up and then down and then sideways...very confusing

[@augustinusaurelius4634]

Zegna truly has superb build quality and Estee Lauder has done an amazing job with the Tom Ford cosmetics stuff, one of the few designer brands that really comes close to Niche. I just hope they don’t further expand the signature fragrance line to refinance the sale…

[@understitchYT]

If they do anything like that, I think theyll make a separate diffusion line for fragrances

[@augustinusaurelius4634]

@@understitchYT Signature already functions as the diffusion line I think. They used to take mass appealing private blends reformulate them and release them at a lower price point, but this year alone there’s been several flankers of signature releases which probably isn’t a good sign.

[@burgersuperking]

TBH Estée Lauder RUINED TF perfumes, not they release only crap, and discontinued all good ones

[@augustinusaurelius4634]

@@burgersuperking They have run Tom Ford Perfumes since its very inception with little oversight by Tom himself. They haven’t really ruined anything, they’re just sort of releasing more stuff than is maybe wise atm.

[@RichMitch]

Would you cover the perfume/cosmetics side on underskin

[@yuriaoquadrado_]

i hope so

[@understitchYT]

I really thought about it, started writing it, but there really wasnt a tonne of info so it ended up being quite short. Perhaps I will in the future though because those perfumes were iconic

[@arneb1771]

I love the business aspects you analyse in your videos!!! better examples and understandability than any of my lectures in Management ever were! Love love love your videos!!! would love to see your take on Helmut or Ann D, following latest news and relevance :)

[@understitchYT]

I think I might have to wait a while for Ann, just because so much has happened. It’s hard to know what’s going on. But I think helmut would be a really interesting one atm

[@alex_1036]

I own one watch, the Tom Ford ocean plastic. It’s a solid black watch, fitting with Ford’s aesthetic. It dresses easily up or down, and commands attention without being overly flashy or without any extra bells and whistles. It is everything a watch should be; a durable tool to tell time first and foremost that draws attention but does not command attention.

[@understitchYT]

I’m so glad that you have something you love so much

[@sarahtaylor546]

I remember I used to use Tom Ford lipsticks and I went to get a replacement from the Tom Ford store in Knightsbridge. It was quiet so the staff gave my friend and me a personal tour of the private atelier upstairs and Tom’s personal art that was chosen by him for the store. I went from loyal to advocate after that!

[@understitchYT]

That is incredible, what a wonderful experience

[@vctrszuwu]

i think he and marc jacobs are not really designers but are more of stylists if yk what i mean... anyway great video understitch i always feel like i am in business school when i'm watching lol

[@understitchYT]

They are both fantastic marketeers, which really is a very large part of fashion anyway. Fashion is cyclical, so finding new ways to present clothes looks like design anyway. Being well read on the history of fashion opens that up to anyone, then, having a novel way to present it leads them to being a good designer. Tom is definitely more marketing based than Marc, but I see your point for sure

[@cms3000]

Are you talking about Demna Gvasalia and his crappy, pedo satanic designs?

[@pablojavieralfaro8999]

. Great video !!

[@understitchYT]

Tysm 🙌🙌

[@therealrodney8561]

The most humane place for Tom Ford to start rebuilding their brand is being more personable at the retail level!❤

[@understitchYT]

Either that or more exclusive, there’s not too many brands going for that ridiculous rich consumer anymore. There is less money in it, so I think that’s why they’ve all come down there more public route.

[@alvarocolindres4764]

A video on Escada brand too!

[@understitchYT]

Another great suggestion 🙌

[@AviSLeigh]

Tom is one of the sexiest men I’ve ever seen. And I’m not even sure why

[@understitchYT]

Ah I see youre human

[@ricj619]

In the creative fields its very rare to find somebody who has the head for biz and eye for detail. Anybody that can build a 3 Billion dollar brand is a success. You can have the best designs, food, whatever if you cant sell it, is it relevant? He knows how to sell.. that's what matters.

[@understitchYT]

He really is such a rare talent for exactly that reason

[@alvarocolindres4764]

Can you do a video on Marchesa and BCBG brands?

[@understitchYT]

Oh I would LOVVEEE to

[@WhoEls]

I loved when he said in an interview he hates perfume and 3 years later when he launched his perfume line he said he loves layering multiple perfumes.

[@understitchYT]

Hahdvdndisbsnkrna

[@martinsaavedra728]

Or when he said he wears Hanes t shirts and just had them tailored 😂 only to then sell thre figure white t shirts.

[@pranayrl]

8:52 they compiled group of things he liked and associated with him as a personality & translated those into the personality for the brand which strongly sets up the house with codes before they truly had even begun.

[@understitchYT]

Yes exactly, very well done

[@Elonpocalyps420]

Fantastic video, but your BCG matrix is wrong considering the X axis of the market share.

[@understitchYT]

Yes thank you, its the pinned comment

[@Elonpocalyps420]

@@understitchYT interesting, it doesn’t show it to me

[@Adrian-bx4ue]

I have no interest in fashion but know of Tom ford from his movies, both of which are based on incredibly obscure books absolutely no one talks about. As a creator he’s fascinating. I do have some cologne of his tho

[@understitchYT]

I need to rewatch them now there is potential for more

[@alejandromolinac]

I think there is a fine line with being sensual, titillating, alluring and suggestively provocative without falling into tacky, vulgar and cheap…. All his marketing never crossed this line….

[@understitchYT]

Yeah it was really a fantastic marketing plan through all the years, just wish it hadnt relied so much on Terry Richardson 😶

[@alejandromolinac]

Guess I am lucky I am a simpleton and have no idea who that is….. then most key figures in Art history were the farthest thing from a Saint….

[@alann8946]

Can you do one on Azzedine Alaïa? 👀

[@understitchYT]

I would LOVE to. Id actually like to do a Life and Death of him

[@Kinglystateof]

It’s FASHUNDAY and you’re watching Understitch✨

[@understitchYT]

📺

[@make-upbymarco3063]

Please please do a video about Estee Lauder companies 🙏🏼

[@understitchYT]

I really want to do that on underskin,

[@understitchYT]

Also your name is such a slay

[@DavidPereiraMiCuPe]

Can you do Alexader McQueen?

[@understitchYT]

Its coming dw 💖

[@Rell40]

I'm a big fan of Tom ford fragrances and his earlier work at Gucci .. those were guccis best fragrances

[@understitchYT]

He has really taken that whole industry to a great level

[@BellaRio2]

I loved Gucci when Tom Ford was overseeing it. After he left, it changed and not for the better. I love both Tom Ford brand and Ermenegildo Zegna, which makes sense now

[@understitchYT]

Zegna is such a classic. I believe for decades they were the most profitable menswear line too, so it makes sense for Ford rly

[@PRIDEATH]

Whoever's narrating excellent job thanks

[@understitchYT]

Thank you 💖🥰

[@inthechairwithcloochy8102]

You are a GENIUS!!!

[@understitchYT]

🧠

[@JamesSmith-mw7ps]

Tom Ford gave his best womenswear to Gucci and YSL. His own brand I think shines more in fragrances and men’s tailoring.

[@understitchYT]

I agree for suree

[@samohara-childs8463]

Fine work

[@understitchYT]

Tysm 🙌

[@zimecka72]

Do you have a video on the rise and fall of John Varvatos?

[@understitchYT]

No 😭 but i need one

[@brunixot1]

I love him, his gucci era for me was the best but maybe he lacked identity, you see, the florals/vintage thing works for gucci, baroque for versace, the Pierpaolo pink for valentino, but what makes a Tom Ford piece a Tom Ford piece besides being nice?

[@understitchYT]

Sleek lines, black and nudity are definitely tom ford signatures. A sense of formality too, I would say is uniquely Tom Ford. His explosion came at a time when fashion was all about messiness, grunge all of that, so it really set him apart then. Its just now its not as uniwue because a lot of brands have tried it since

Good job

[@understitchYT]

Tysm 🙌

[@taslimsadiq6892]

Tom Ford will not be TOM FORD without the man himself, MR THOMAS CARYLE FORD himself the man is a creative genius and a brilliant businessman

[@understitchYT]

I think it will produce exactly the same product, which could go either way honestly

[@dontbefatuousjeffrey2494]

@@understitchYT I tend to agree with you here. There is a certain look and style to his aesthetic which is not hard to emulate for a gifted tailor... one who is also a gifted designer can do it. Whether much innovation occurs is yet to be seen - whether a renewed love of his Gucci-era design requires it in the short-term may make the difference for now. I think ultimately innovation is needed to keep the fashion side viable, though.

[@milostich8323]

Lmao none of you own TF clothes..his clothes are like no one elses when seen in person.

[@understitchYT]

@@milostich8323 You're right that they are well made, theyre done by Zegna after all, but, Don't be fatuous, Jeffrey is also right in saying that it can easily be emulated by a good tailor (and actually perhaps even better because then it will be to your measurements from scratch instead of tailored). TF has wonderful clothes, thats undeniable, they are on the timeless end and well branded too, but innovation is an important part of any fashion business too and so there definitely room for that

[@Hippy2021]

@@milostich8323 I got a few dresses from his brand at Rodeo Dr . They are crazily expensive (at least 6k ) these are gifts from BF. I would not spend that much for a dress but special occasion my man want me to wear. I noticed his products, clothing barely go on sale. My dresses after 7 months are still same price online.

[@topleybird2443]

You should do a video on the other Tom, Thom Browne. Fascinating story.

[@understitchYT]

Oh I am 100%!

[@ericszilagyi8214]

His design is completely opposite to Versace's, right? It's classy, elegant, traditional, black, white, neutral... And his fragrances are the best.

[@understitchYT]

I would say it’s quite opposite of Versace, yes. His is more quiet, V is more loud.

[@dadeusfortunae]

Look up the Apollo-Dionysus dichotomy. Apollo is heavenly, measured, rational art and Dionysus is intoxicating, revolutionary and emotional art. Armani is also Apollonian and Vivienne Westwood is Dionysian.

[@ericszilagyi8214]

@@dadeusfortunae Westwood's design seems to have some measure and symmetry, but it's more vivid than Armani's. I get what you mean.

[@dadeusfortunae]

@@ericszilagyi8214 Yes! Every material that is given structure by humans has some measure and control and it's produced by rationality. It's when a piece of art is not abstracted to its more basic forms that it has emotional elements in it. The crown worn by Elizabeth Taylor in Cleopatra is a product of human free-flowing imagination (Dionysus), not just intellect (Apollo).

[@1984schizosturm]

Tom Ford is amazing imo

[@understitchYT]

Very interesting man, Id love to meet him

[@1984schizosturm]

@@understitchYT he can not be not relevant, I mean just have a look at a single man, its beautiful, and if it was 90s Gucci forever, its timeless

[@alexanderexarchos9210]

I'm one of the few people that actually loved what Tom Ford produced for YSL....

[@understitchYT]

I would love to do a deeper dive and see if I can find more information about it, maybe some sales figures because itd be interesting to compare

[@GracefulDanny]

A Single Man and Nocturnal Animals were fantastic IMO. Would love to see him focusing on directing full time.

[@understitchYT]

Is he working on another one you think?

[@Ooo0990]

The future of Tom Ford is in highly wearable well tailored minimalist men’s wear, for older men and professionals.

[@understitchYT]

It could be definitely, we havent had a brand that targeted for men in a long time in that way

[@cms3000]

​@@understitchYT Ermenegildo Zegna, Loro Piana, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ralph Lauren, Giorgio Armani, what are you talking about?

[@understitchYT]

Thats why I added ‘in that way’ but really Zegna has the largest marketshare in luxury menswear, thats for sure, but the other brands are more profitable in their womenswear offering, they all put more into the womens targeting for that reason

[@Lommy9999]

Bring back the Tom Ford Gucci fragrances!

[@understitchYT]

Could you imagine

[@VTVT1306]

I wish he would do another movie. Great talent.

[@understitchYT]

He said in an interview that they were his passion, I wouldnt put it past him to make another

[@joeluchiha]

Can you make a video about Topshop / Topman?

[@understitchYT]

Honestly I would absolutely love to, the Arcadia group in general is fascinating

[@trishemerald2487]

Oh now that Lauder owns the fragrances, I'm no longer interested. (Although it could be worse - it could be l'oréal.)

[@understitchYT]

Itll be interesting to see the changes they make under EL, but probably not for good reasons

[@Writer341]

I agree with the fact that they are falling. The company lost its “cool”. I think the company put it’s name on too many things and over saturated the market. When I think of this brand I think of what happened to Halston. Sometimes being everywhere is good and sometimes being everywhere is bad. In this case, it was bad for him. I do believe that the company hasn’t made profit in years. Part of the reason is because of the price for some of their items and some of their items are no longer exclusive. I love their items don’t get me wrong. But the “it” factor is gone.

[@understitchYT]

I think youve really hit the nail on the head as to why they havent been profitable in a while; the it factor is in its lull period. I dont doubt itll come back, but for now its not discussed at all

[@Writer341]

@@understitchYT the exclusive factor is no longer there. Too many people can easily attain some of their products. When you have a brand that’s well known the point is to keep it in the hands of a few, not many. They became over saturated and now almost everyone has many of their “exclusive” items. I know a thing or two about fashion. I can say more but not on here. Thanks. Outside of America, no one really cares for their brand.

[@Ooo0990]

I can see the Tom Ford brand declining and losing its aura of Luxury, we all see the lack of creativity we all see the disconnect

[@understitchYT]

Its a tricky line right now for sure

[@pablovint]

The glasses and sunglasses are decent and quite nice :)

[@understitchYT]

I agree, I quite like the style

[@thomaslienert4225]

Wow ... that BCG matrix is all kinds of messed up, is no-one proofreading this?

[@understitchYT]

You say noone like its not just me 😂 I added it last minute from a google img because i thought the screen needed movement, I didnt proof read it, no, but the pinned comment is to point out that its wrong

[@iseh3970]

theres a mistake at 1:35 you said that in 1999 in Gucci's revenue grew to 4 billion when in fact if you read the source you highlight during the video it says that its market value was at 4 billion not its revenues. In 1999 Gucci had a revenue of $1.04 billion dollars btw. Love the vid tho!!

[@understitchYT]

Yeah youre totally right, thats definitely a mistake on my part

[@perseus9428]

I never thought of Tom Ford as "fallen" . I think he's still brilliant.

[@understitchYT]

I agree that the man himself is very very talented, its a real shame that the company isn't currently profitable

[@4txx]

BCG matrix is flipped. Otherwise, it's a great video.

[@understitchYT]

I know 🤮 its the pinned comment, but I added it last minute thinking the screen needed movement and unfortunately didnt read it properly

[@Sssteelo]

Tom fords men’s cologne is amazing I have some that I use religiously

[@understitchYT]

Maybe I should do a video on their fragrances specifically, they have such a wonderful fan base

[@kendahl7922]

Don’t think there was a fall..$2.8 BILLION..I WISH TO FALL LIKE THAT

[@understitchYT]

Its the potential that they havent made a profit since 2019 for me

[@kendahl7922]

@@understitchYT well..Tom Ford himself made out just fine..$2.8B..perfect timing as COVID in 2020 messed with most business..I had to shut down two companies..

[@understitchYT]

Oh undoubtedly mr ford did very well, but the video was about the brand not the man