The Rise and Rise of Jacquemus

[@understitchYT]

Tomorrow (27th June) is officially my channel's first birthday. I just want to say tysm to everyone that has subscribed, commented, joined the patreon, subscribed to underskin, etc; basically any and all support / engagement has just been so gratefully recieved. I don't quite know how to express that susinctly and authentically, but to think it's only been a year, and we've reached 55.5 thousand subscribers and, over all videos, literally millions of views, is just so flabbergasting and flattering. I'm so grateful to have found so many people who have the same kind of love of the more business side of fashion brands, marketing, branding, all of that good stuff. I know this is probably my least well put comment, but idk, I just wanted to express this. Thank you

[@paddyolten4031]

Happy Birthday!

[@martijnkeisers5900]

Congratulations on ur succes!

[@memobebo8698]

Happy birthday

[@nob14024]

Happy birthday! I love your channel it’s my current favorite fashion channel .. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

[@tierra-rareearth-divastyle1255]

Congratulations we appreciate the research you put into & thoughtful discourse combine it w the business model info is truly awesome ! Thank you & Great Job! 🥂

[@scpatl4now]

It is so refreshing to see someone succeed on their own terms without having to bow to "Big Fashion". When you have a talented designer who also has a keen business sense and understands social media...this is what happens. It's a thread that runs through many of your videos on successful designers. They are a complete package

[@understitchYT]

Its also interesting how much of a necessity all of that is for success now

[@scpatl4now]

@@understitchYT Well, the predatory nature of some of these large firms (that only care about short term profit) that try to undermine the artistic talent is a newer trend in the industry

[@understitchYT]

@@scpatl4now since around the 90s/2000s yes, its not my favourite thing. I do wish there was a way to have more systems so that both the creative and commercial sides of fashion could exist - though, this is changing with fashion museums and such, its just too slow of a change

[@enaeva_]

@@understitchYT Is Jacquemus an independent brand?

[@RR-ir4ut]

jacquemus is a cokehead. sniffing coke and doing drugs like crazy

[@hollywooddarling]

Really enjoyed this look into Jacquemus, learned a lot about the history of the brand, but just wanted to point out that the Sex and the City movie came out in 2008, an entire decade before the Jacquemus hat did in 2018. So Patricia Field very much did create the design of that hat on Samantha Jones.

[@understitchYT]

Wow Im bad at maths, but the buzz surrounding a comparison of the two was really big and definitely moved that age bracket of consumers to the brand, even my family members with very little interest in fashion heard of Jacquemus from the la bomba hat 😂

[@liv-turner]

In my opinion you forgot to mention how well the brand is personally interconnected with the founder and how genuine and transparent they are. Even the fact they only have a single IG account, where the designer shares not only brand promotional work, but its personal life and creative process/inspirations, it shows us the human side of the fashion business and it help us realize that behind the brand there is a man with a vision and not just another souless corporation. The location of the catwalks have always a very personal and emotional reason for Jacquemus and the entire design and aesthetic of the collections are always so loyal and well connected to the brand in general (and his personal life), it transmit a genuine feeling that other brands can't do it (specially when they are more concerned with being trendy than being loyal to their brand cores). With Jacquemus we know a product, a marketing campaign or the catwalk is Jacquemus without seeing the logo because the entire brand is so well constructed and the designer itself and its entire team are so loyal to the brand core that everything works and is connected in perfection.

[@understitchYT]

Yeah he has done a very wonderful job at branding himself and the company that way, but to me, thats risky. When a company is so tied to a celebrity or namesake then if theres a scandal it hits just so much harder (see dolce, alexander wang)

[@happiesthuman-qh7xn]

I’m not a fashion enthusiast or a fan, but I’m a huge marketing and branding fan. Your channel is the best thing, love you so much ❤️

[@understitchYT]

Im so glad to hear that, tysm 🥰

[@brindaparuthi4916]

I see understitch, I tap

[@understitchYT]

I see comment, I like 💕

[@sophiaisabelle027]

Your insights are spot on. Keep up the good work.

[@understitchYT]

Im so glad you enjoyed the video 🙌

[@omarmyia]

Girl you are on fire with these videos lately! Great content, as always.

[@understitchYT]

Thank you so much!! Im do glad youre enjoying 🙌

[@thebrothaj]

first off, congratulations on your year anniversary! much like fashion, when you produce a well conceived, thoughtful, well executed product that makes one think and feel... "they will come." you're killing it. i hadn't realized the brand had been around as long as it has. much respect though for the commitment to the brand ethos (are you seeing this, botter?!) i was a hater for a season or two... especially after the mini bag had a stranglehold on ALL social media, but there's no denying that the kid has talent to back up all the hype. i only wonder which heritage house will be the high bidder for such talent?

[@understitchYT]

Tysm!! I love birthdays so now I get this one and my actual birthday in August 😂 I really agree about the commitment to their POV as a brand. Its so important and theyve kept it so well. You know, when he first started, Susie Bubble era, I didnt know what he looked like, and when I saw him a year or so (maybe more) later, and I saw how good looking he was I kind of wrote them off thinking he had got to that point because hes so handsome. It was only much later when I returned to the brand I realised just how interesying it was

[@thebrothaj]

ahhh, sweet… a fellow leo (i’m august 7th)!

[@understitchYT]

@@thebrothaj my channel is a leo and Im personally a virgo

[@patphetthong1091]

Thank you for your hardworking. Always well researched, well narrated. I'm definitely a fan of your video.

[@understitchYT]

Thank you so much, Im so glad you enjoy my videos 🥰

[@amyrahshehab]

Could you possibly make a video about the rise of Bottega Veneta? I would be very interested in that! x

[@understitchYT]

I think that would be so interesting too

[@buzzingtruth]

Such a huge jacquemus fan, he got me interested in fashion in 2018 and I’ve followed his shows and collections diligently since. And his personal life lol.

[@understitchYT]

Hes such an interesting person, I dont blame you in the slightest

[@peterlangendorff9846]

I love him, love his clothes, and love your expert videos. You are so valued, Understitch!

[@understitchYT]

I agree that he is amazing, and thank you so much for the lovely compliment

[@joshmiller7777]

Loving so many new videos, great to have you back :)

[@understitchYT]

I hate being sick, so much of what I had planned was all smushed together because of it and I lost a week of research for new videos :( with that said, Im so so so so so happy to be back, it was only a week and it felt like a lifetime

[@duyo7027]

I love your videos. My favorite channel I subscribed to since last year

[@joshmiller7777]

@@understitchYT Your determination is really admirable, comes across in the quality of the videos too! Completely agree on the sickness, I have not taken a sick day in 5 years, and I cannot stand being sick haha

[@anasanahuja9946]

Loved it as always💕 I just want to add on Jacquemus’ work on that MET gala look for Benito working with Lesage and that silver dress from F23 full of flowers. Including higher price point products? Appealing to haute couture for the future?

[@understitchYT]

Perhaps for haute couture they would need a totally different kind of product because their clothes atm are so simple. I mean, unless they did a Balenciaga 2.0

[@understitchYT]

(Original balenciaga with the fabric cut being the stand out, not balenciaga now)

[@davidpachecogarcia]

Didn’t he tap into the wedding dress market? I feel like I’ve heard that before somewhere. Which helped him stand out as the “my dresses are so good that brides want to wear them” but also in the “my dresses may be priced way less than a bridal dress but they can be used for that ocasión.” I feel like the accessories business is a gateway for many people. I’m def not interested in bags for myself but the chiquito and all it ridiculous nano sizes does interest me even if it’s for a laugh. Especially the nano one where they could only add the J. It’s like a toy or Christmas ornament then not really a fashion accessory.

[@understitchYT]

I dont know if it was intentional or not, but I think quite a few women get married in Jacquemus now. A designer wedding dress for less than a traditional dress 🤷‍♂️ And yeah 100% about bags being an entry point product

[@tramanhdo5948]

If I can get my hands on that nano chiquito, it'll be my key charm for keeping coins lol. In the NL, you need a €1 coin to unleash shopping carts, so that bag will be in good use 😂😂

[@BohemianLoveCat]

Fun Fact: in the wedding scene in „Emily in Paris“ Camille wears a Jacquemus dress :D

[@chrispechovski5073]

This was an amazingly done video per usual! I just want to point out that the sex and the city movie came out in May 2010 :)

[@understitchYT]

Was that not the second movie?

[@chrispechovski5073]

@@understitchYT First one came out in 2008, second one in 2010.The hat is just a coincidence 🤷‍♂️

[@understitchYT]

The hat definitely influenced consumers to go to jacquemus though because of the similarities. There was a lot of buzz comparing the two at the time

[@asc642]

Happy Early Anniversary!!!! I would like if you did a video someday to Gabriela Hearst

[@understitchYT]

Its the day now so tyvm 🙌🙌🙌 I think gh would be interesting too

[@jemeryas]

I love how the oversized hat kinda led to this comical trend in fashion with the oversized red boots and other oversized items. Jacquemus really was an intentional trendsetter 💘✌🏾

[@understitchYT]

I didnt think of that thread, but youre so right

[@Ste2023]

Great channel Understitch . Brilliant presentation and bloody good knowledge

[@understitchYT]

Thank you so much, Im so glad you enjoyed the video! Bisou

[@gasparm.2711]

Superb video. Great research, as usual.

[@understitchYT]

Im so glad you enjoyed it tysm

[@germann_r]

Great video! As always. But Sex and the City movie was released in 2008, not 2018, and that huge yellow hat Samantha wore had nothing to do with Jacquemus and wasn’t inspired by his collection. And you’re showing that picture of Bella Hadid wearing similar straw hat, but it’s not Jacquemus hat (it was some small local brand), although he reposted that photo and there was a huge scandal (I guess diet Prada started it), so Jacquemus had to delete it

[@understitchYT]

I got it the wrong way round, despite the movie coming out first it was still majorly connected to the jacquemus brand and did bolster his appeal to those age brackets, same with the bella hadid photo

[@ronque23]

I really admire his marketing acumen. The guerrilla protest was brilliant.

[@understitchYT]

That protest was so genius thats so true

[@aohare]

Great video - thank you

[@understitchYT]

Thank you

[@ruesaintdenis]

this channel is so awesome 🥰

[@understitchYT]

Tysm 🙌

[@Carroty_Peg]

Thank you! Is the model with the green jumper Jeanne Damas who went on to found Rouje?

[@understitchYT]

You know i really dont know

[@indiichsan6089]

If ur referring to the girl at 5:56 then yea i think thats jeanne damas

[@jza3422]

Can u do one on Phoebe Philo please? Love your channel. Very well researched ❤

[@understitchYT]

Im trying to get one on her brand launch but im not sure how to frame it yet

[@FloorSugar]

I love Jacquemus. Thanks for the video, its nice to know more about the evolution of the brand 😊

[@understitchYT]

Im so glad you enjoyed it 🙏

[@andreasjohansson7834]

Please do a video about Versace next ❤

[@understitchYT]

I would loooove to do a versace video, actually Id like to do a life and death of Gianni

[@andreasjohansson7834]

@@understitchYT I would love if you did a Versace video about the evolution of the brand as well 😍

[@insulaarachnid]

This was really interesting. I was going to suggest you do a video on Nensi Dojaka, then realised that the brand is only a few years old.

[@understitchYT]

Her brand is about as old as Christopher Kane’s no?

[@insulaarachnid]

@@understitchYT When I googled Nensi Dojaka, one site stated that it only launched in 2019 but maybe that's wrong? Christopher Kane has been around since 2006 yes?

[@understitchYT]

@@insulaarachnid you could be right, I have to look into it, I just remember seeing her name in my research and being surprised it wasnt as young as I had thought

[@limpflute3559]

New understitch video YASSS

[@understitchYT]

More to come on monday 🙌

[@DexterGautier]

Such a beautiful video ! I learn so much about this brand, that now is everywhere. But ... how did you get the picture at 0.26 ?

[@understitchYT]

the one of Simon way back when? Its online from one of his interviews. I feel like I read everything he said publicly for those years at this point ahahha

[@ks.f.1203]

Great video (as usual). It would be great to see your analysis of the rise and fall of Sies Marjan?

[@understitchYT]

Did they have much of a rise? I think I know their design just from instagram, but I don't know if they ever really got their feet off the ground

[@understitchYT]

(which is not really their fault considering the timing and how new the brand was when the pandemic hit)

[@hazecliff7173]

Undoubtedly the most creative designer in his generation.

[@understitchYT]

So so incredibly talented, and a very good marketer

[@duyo7027]

Love your videos

[@understitchYT]

Tysm 🤌

[@maryjanedodo]

Lol - i learned about that hat when i Saw Trixie Mattel wearing one & ordered one immediately - mostly because I'm a pasty person who hates sunscreen for sensory reasons 👒

[@ceevalentinatv]

One thing I’d like you to break down is the rise of MSCHF 👀

[@understitchYT]

I would love to, Ive started it a couple times but it keeps getting postponed

[@AlienAvocadoGirl]

Can you do Victoria Beckham next pls?

[@understitchYT]

Oh I would loooove to

[@vojtapergl858]

I love the mens shirts by jacquemus, i have like 5 of them and also the price is decent compared to other designer brands.

[@understitchYT]

The composition is usually phenomenal too, are they 100% cotton?

[@emin5488]

I hate what he became ... I still remember when I saw his show La Bomba for the first time : it was breath taking, fresh, timeless, effortlessly chic , sexy 90s french novelas vibes AND THE MODELS ! Anonymous Natural Beauty Goddesses ...then he started to get more fame with the Kardashian and the haddids that goes with it. I was like : farewell my queen...😩

[@understitchYT]

And dula peep was also a really early adopter of the brand, Id inagine thats why she was at his wedding

[@emin5488]

@@understitchYT Jacquemus is that cool girl who got popular. You know what I mean. (Sorry for my bad english : I am a francophone)

[@understitchYT]

@@emin5488 pas de problem, mon francais es mal aussi mdr. Je m'etude aves les films francais, tellement mon lire es pas mal, mais je ne peux pas l'utiliser dans la discours (I hope you understood this ahaha)

[@emin5488]

@@understitchYT Parfaitement ! 👌😉

[@josipag2185]

La Bomba was.. perfect. But I don't think Hadids made anything wrong they are just models, and actually the blonde one at least can go with his aestethic (she isn't plastic nor has an ED) but every single plastic wanna be Kim influencer..I get you. A shame I wish he could of stay not.. this viral and abused

[@paddyolten4031]

I always have mixed feeling with Jacquemus.... Very talented designer and marketer but the clothes’ quality is really...not my top pick for sure

[@understitchYT]

I know they have some complaints about quality with the clothing. But, actually I think thats because theyre so simply constructed more than anything. We have grown so accustomed to very worked garments, that when things are more simply constructed it doesnt feel the same quality. I dont know how to explain this better than the comparison of a Jacquemus garment to something a talented parent (or yourself) could make at home. Theres no fancy manufacturing work in there, its mostly not faced, or minimally faced etc. Does this make sense? Im not running on a lot of sleep ahha

[@paddyolten4031]

@@understitchYT I can see your point but because I'm focusing on menswear, I would probably buy AMI or AuraLee for a similar price point. However, Jacquemus does offer a better female collection from my point of view. He reminds me of Marc Jacobs in the early 2000s - nice womenswear but horrible menswear. Neverthless, I would like to buy the open back suit jacket he made for himself for Met Gala.

[@davidpachecogarcia]

@@understitchYTIm about to receive my first order from jaquemus. The only comparison I have is Patagonia’s quality tho. Patagonia is also relatively simple construction with the addition of it being an outdoor wear brand which means it’s products get pretty beat up. I have several of their items that def hold up to both washing/drying and abuse from the outdoor elements. So it’s a pretty tough brand to beat especially being way more “affordable” than jacquemus.

[@scpatl4now]

@@understitchYT I looked at some of the garments, and with a good sewing machine and a serger, I could make many of the garments. I consider myself to be middle of the road in sewing skill, but there really isn't a lot to the pieces. I'm surprised they aren't plagued by knock offs

[@annabarr1304]

For me the problem is fit, he does little things that are very awkward.

[@Kay-kg6ny]

I was thinking "why does this have so few comments???" And then I realised it's because it literally came out minutes ago 😩

[@understitchYT]

😂😂 i always love the comment section too, i start a video and go straight there (then i get annoyed i gave myself spoilers)

[@ntokozozuuluutshabalala5775]

Please do the "RISE AND RISE OF THEBE MAGUGU"

[@understitchYT]

Oh Id LOVE to actually

[@Balakrishna-jj1fp]

Thank you..

[@understitchYT]

Thank you🙌

[@BohemianLoveCat]

Is that Jeanne Damas in his first collection?

[@understitchYT]

I honestly dont know, but it does look like her

[@ashtoneramya]

Yep!

[@tristanasT]

Thanks

[@understitchYT]

Thank you 🥰

[@iancoulson5822]

❤ this brand and their innovation

[@understitchYT]

Its a great choice 🙌

[@nairobideservesbetter507]

Not this coming out after he flopped 😭

[@understitchYT]

You think he flopped?

[@Hvrtjff]

Didn’t the sex and city movies come out in 2008 and 2010? I always assumed his hat was inspired from them rather than the other way round

[@understitchYT]

Yeah it did, it was the other way around, but it had the same effect of bringing that demographic to his brand 🥰

[@Johnnythakyd]

I’m the type of person to wear my designer clothes to death cause that’s what clothing purchases are for, and out of all the designer clothing I have Jacquemus is at the top of the list for sitting on my body the way it was advertised, showing technical and artisanal execution, and lasting the longest.

[@understitchYT]

I’m exactly the same, I prefer to buy very slowly for that reason. And I really appreciate that the Jacquemus clothes are made of one material so I can predict how they will develop over time.

[@shivangrawat3]

No sex and the city movie came out in 2008 8 years before the show.

[@understitchYT]

Yes, I got the maths wrong 😅 but the point still stands that the Sex and The City hat was compared to Jacquemus to an extent that it was the introduction to the brand for many

[@mingingg]

Jacquemus is kinda like the Marimekko of Paris

[@understitchYT]

Omg yes, thats such a great comparison

[@sweetchavacano2]

The Sex and the City movie where Samantha Jones wears that hat came out in 2008 not 2018

[@understitchYT]

That’s totally right, but the point still stands that it bridge the gap between sharpness and that age bracket, it was compared a lot in media

[@SuibhecahUmmar]

Jacqueamus is great designer .

[@understitchYT]

Agreed

[@josipag2185]

I think he is doing like Alaïa. And he doesn't do fashion weeks but I imagine some brand doing show in french or italian museum/castle is the same type of the exotic location, and the cities being overbooked and plains full, I don't think he is more exclusive so to say just more relaxed and inspiring and authetenic and kinda fairy tale. More fantasy. And fashion is about that, right? Anyway, one year collection, make it closer to the season, staying faithful to his summer vibes it seems more sustainable to me. Why would he follow the rules, he always brakes them, and create his rules. I really respect him, and love his talent, La Bomba Omg, but recently he is being overhyped, and overly dependent on social media in a way.. I guess he makes it this way, but we are also kinda overexposed. I do see a bit of stagnation there, luckily because this old money thing took the social media. O, and is it me or ot semes like the French protest every day, he just wan ted to be noticed by people interested in the fashion, to got his name, or google it, but not sure that this did anything. They protest every single day, since the bloddy french revolution 😂

[@understitchYT]

Youre so rightt, but about the overexposure thing, I think that they may know theyre going into a lull (which happens to all) so are prepping for it, and establishing strong visuals so they can kee profitable in that time

[@josipag2185]

@@understitchYT Yes ofc, I totally agree hence this horizontal managment. Smart. And I think that his mixed approach (I mean contrary to thr influencers who start to share their lifes and make the brand latery and other designers or TV celebrities who just are there to sell) is so good and will hold him more, it is kinda sweet and seems genuine (not sure if it is in reality).

[@ldr580]

Could you do Hugo Boss?

[@understitchYT]

Gosh thatd be interesting, but a very big deep dive is certainly needed

[@willemhouben7483]

His Versailles show was easily one of the worst collections that saw the light of day in recent years in Paris.

[@understitchYT]

You think so? It was quite off-brand, but the silhouettes felt very fesh to me

[@bzztthundaa]

❤️❤️❤️

[@understitchYT]

⭐️⭐️⭐️

[@tremaynepatterson2330]

The Sex and the City movie came out in 2008, not 2018. Do your research.

[@understitchYT]

It may have done but the point still stands, the Jacquemus hat called back to Sex and the City and so was heavily compared, bringing in that demographic of people

[@sidhantkalia2556]

He’s so hot 🥵 like?!???

[@understitchYT]

THANK YOU!! I cant be the only one

[@lioneljourno1614]

Un styliste sans ames

[@Redstarfields]

It’s Jack-Eh-Moose

[@understitchYT]

I was wondering how long it would take someone to comment this 😂

[@Redstarfields]

I hate being that guy but I had to, I love jacquemus lol but you said it right on a lot of the pronunciations. I’ve been binging your videos and holy crap they are amazing. Much love and success to you and your channel. 🙏🏻

[@understitchYT]

@@Redstarfields ahahah its okay, dw Im not remotely offended, I just anticipated this comment so I was looking forward to it :)