The Simple Ingenious Way To Build Rock Solid Cabinet Kicks!

[@sdennen]

"Scooter! You're messing with my whole mojo!" I just might quote this from now on! 😊

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

True story!😂

[@CreativeIdeasMaker]

Thank you for explaining so patiently and well in each of your videos and sharing the training tips.

[@JackieJP]

Amazing how much extra support the small wood blocks provide!! 👍🏼💪🏼

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Thanks for checking out the vid Jackie. Yes definitely a clever way to get great support!

[@HFRajuncajun]

Love this method. Totally changed my cabinet game when I learned it. I like to make a couple of those plywood "legs" into L-shaped "legs" then I just screw them to the floor. I also like to scribe my kicks before installing the cabs, much easier without them on. Another little thing I found that helped is keeping the cross sections about an inch shorter than the height of the perimeter pieces. In case the floor has a hump in the middle of the island. Great vid man.

[@3frogltd987]

Great presentation and methods for leveling and securing the kick base. But man, Scooter is the star of the video, he looks to be a wonderful companion, he earned a couple extra treats today!

[@ThePittEngineer]

I enjoyed how Scooter sulked away when you refused to give him attention. Great tips! I am not installing any cabinets anytime soon but yet I still keep watching for your quality content!

[@b3owu1f]

I've not seen anyone replace the shims with wood glues/screwed in on the inside.. very cool idea and added support. Always thought you just leave the shims there. Saw another video where they glue/screw shims in to floor so they wont shift, but your method seems better for longevity.

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

@@b3owu1f I used to do the same with the shims until an old cabinet guy showed me this method, I immediately recognized it as absolutely genius. It’s so much more solid and a lot easier to do once you get the hang of it. Thanks for watching🍻

[@csimet]

Great tips. I do mostly the same, but for my basement laundry room and shop cabinets, I use 2x4 treated lumber for the kicks (on edge so the cabinets sit on them) or sit the kicks on them (raises the cabinets w/kicks already on them an extra 1.5"). Just so I have treated lumber on the concrete and avoid moisture, should the floors get wet. Scooter is great!

[@kayakphd]

Did this exact same thing when building our Ikea kitchen about 4 months ago- super solid!

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

🍻cheers

[@dingeldiy]

Awesome - great editing and simple to understand

[@MrWaterbugdesign]

Smart. Thanks. Didn't pre-see the solution.

[@francoisg3009]

Smart! Thanks for the tip! Like the dog too, makes the video more real.🙂

[@Toyotajunkie]

Love it! I think I've seen that method somewhere in my travels, but I had completely forgotten about it. Almost too easy and too sturdy... lol. Scooter... mojo... lmao

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

😂🍻thanks Jonathan

[@gregorymacneil2836]

Best colour coordination I have ever seen in a kitchen install video! Did you match the cabinet finish to the dog or did you dye the dog to match the cabinet finish? The use of a colour contrasting black Stabila level and t-shirt was very creative. ❤ the video. BTW - That’s a good way to install a cabinet base! The only issue you are going to have is keeping the cabinets clean so they always match the dog or vis versa! Could be a bit high maintenance.

[@cliffkolinger395]

I really enjoy your videos. Seems all the best DIY you tubers are in Canada.

[@laurencool9926]

Scooter is adorable

[@joshuahellriegel3354]

You mention buying ikea cabinets all the time, could you do a quick video on that process? You’re the man.

[@chrisnovak5161]

More Scooter!!!! Great video 👍

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Thanks Chris

[@isaiahii6982]

What a beautiful dog.

[@rs2343-o4e]

Great video.Love scooter.

[@sallymoffit3751]

Great video!

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Thanks Sally

[@brandoncjgrimes]

after you add the blocks do you remove the shims or leave it???

[@pb5202]

Ha ha, love the dog! Always great tips👍

[@stevenvachon9745]

Have you tried the Axilo legs from Hafele? Much stronger than the ones I see in the perimeter cabinets, and a breeze to use with their adjuster tool, especially with a drill hooked up. As far as the strength goes....I scribe the kicks tight so that adds direct support to the cabinet and also there are usually end panels /gables that go to the floor that also are direct support (also a place to fasten to the floor). I am not a fan of pedestal bases for many reasons. When you have a room packed full of cabinets ready for install, you have to almost completely clear them out so you can level the whole perimeter. They are a real pain when you need to scribe them lower than they are made ie; when the floors are way out of level. Plumbing inevitably always comes up right where there is a cleat. They are a pain when they are made to the wrong size....people forget about kick returns, DW openings etc... I certainly would not want screw holes in the bottom of my cabinets that get chipped, filled with dirt, moisture.... I still use pedestal bases when there is a requirement for furniture kicks though. Using adjustable legs with pedestal bases are also an option.

[@tbmagoo]

I normally use the blocking & brackets ikea provides, but it can be a pretty annoying system at times. Mostly relying on the weight of the slab to keep everything steady. Do you end up just gluing the ikea kick to the ply after the flooring is installed or do you use different material?

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Ya the the plastic screw legs are alright along the wall but for a giant island I’d be scared they’d break off! The island is like 9’ long so we are just going to get some long trim material and make our own kick. You could definitely just put a little PL premium glue and glue on the ones ones though.

[@not-a-raccoon]

Reasons to watch Funny Carpenter: -Funny -Solid Carpentry tips. -Scooter -Honest tool reviews -Beard -Learn how to avoid a negligent homicide/Manslaughter charge.

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Thanks Buddy:) I sure appreciate the continued support and always look forward to your 2 cents🍻

[@Stache987]

It looks like he cut the beard back, waaah!

[@tedmcdonald3377]

Thanks 😎🛠️😎🛠️😎

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

🍻have a great weekend Ted

[@rpaasse6453]

I did build a floor like that, wish i knew this then.

[@ThisTall]

Couldn’t agree more on the plastic legs. I’m a 100% plywood ladder kick guy. The plastic legs are actually stronger then they seem but still not good enough. And they break really easy trying to tip a cabinet over on to them.

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Nothing better than getting all your plywood ladder levelled off and then just start throwing cabinets in quick!

[@ThisTall]

@@TheFunnyCarpenter exactly, lol makes you look like a total hero to the home owner.

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

@@ThisTall at first they’re like hmm not much happening…and then boom

[@ThisTall]

@@TheFunnyCarpenter exactly!!

[@disklamer]

Put a strap around the cabinet and lift to rotate

[@f.w.5097]

Scooter❤❤❤❤❤

[@briturner11]

SCOOTER!

[@JL-hn6hi]

Good dogs have good owners.

[@kds471]

I have installed that way only once. Apparently it’s popular in Europe, where when they move they take the cabs with them and leave the base. Didn’t make sense to me then, doesn’t make sense to me now. After leveling the bases it did make it a breeze after tho.

[@hwood9783]

Never come across that. Also, makes no sense to take cabinets without the kicker base units.

[@charlesjohnson7222]

What would you do if the floor was concrete?

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

I would glue down some wood blocks with PL Premium

[@01jbeals]

Can anyone answer my question?? Remodeling my moms kitchen (to remain her favorite child, obviously) and so far, so good! But I am running into a problem with the hinges. The problem is that the cabinet doors have a 3/8 lip (overlay doors) and finding hidden hinges for this has proven to be a huge pain in the ass! I will not settle for exposed hinges, not after all the work I’ve just put in! Any ideas? Any suggestions? can I rig something up? HELP!!!!!

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Are the cabinets frameless?

[@01jbeals]

@@TheFunnyCarpenter Oh shit… I think I have found them!!!

[@paulnewman2115]

More scooter please 🙏 so funny

[@maxxx952]

The plastic legs I use are rated at 250 kg each.Solid bases are 30 years ago

[@markw496]

Good tips. I think though the cabinet shims can handle 5000 lbs of pressure and some even 15000+ lbs of pressure. Most counter tops are at most 1200lbs so...

[@DailyFrankPeter]

What do you do with the gap left by levelling?

[@warrenwerks]

All gets covered by the toe kick molding

[@andrewcarr2431]

great design for an Island installation as the plastic legs from most kitchen cabinets are for levelling, not supporting. I love IKEA's rail hanging system and IKEA gets a bad rap from many about being "cheap crap" yet out of all the flat pack kitchen systems I've found this to be the best quality. not as good a quality as a custom cabinet build by a wood shop by a professional maker but then you are comparing oranges to carrots (same colour, totally different items).

[@johnwolfenden7599]

but how is it attached to the floor? just weight?

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Screwed to the floor.

[@johnx9318]

That was a good video and very educational but, what about the gaps under the bottom edge? Puzzled

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Thank you. The cabinet finished kick pieces will go right to the floor.

[@johnx9318]

@@TheFunnyCarpenter Looking forward to that video! Thanks.

[@KonstantinUdalov]

looks like you'll need some finished doors some time soon =))

[@karlbenedict1281]

Scooter should be in every video.

[@Pete.Ty1]

👍👍👍

[@JohnVanderbeck]

Isn't that base going to be about 3/4" too high or am I being morning brain dense? You leveled from the inside bottom of the existing cabinet to the top of the kick. Once you put the cabinet on there, it will now be higher by the thickness of the bottom panel of the cabinet. Which means from the top of the bottom panel to the top of the other bottom panel will be different byu that thickness?

[@danthechippie4439]

I'd have made the inner plywood section half inch smaller than the outside and keep flush to the top all way round just in case there is a hump in the floor

[@ReclaimerX22]

That's how I do it as well, though I only ⅛-¼" smaller. Mostly just to make it easier to get shims underneath.

[@mattmormile3585]

I like to do that, then use adjustable feet that screw to the kick, then to the floor. Makes leveling super quick and easy.

[@richardporter4281]

Scooter you can do this

[@RGcrasyRG]

That impact driver on your right looks like a photoshop cutout 😀

[@RGcrasyRG]

The method is cool though!

[@gnic76]

Supervisor Scooter, didn't seem very impressed when you went back to work. Pups always know when to take a break.

[@themeat5053]

Are you back to work? I see the Festool box in the background must have a need to use those rather than just spending that type of money for home projects. Good Deal!!!

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Just helping my friend with his IKEA kitchen. Hopefully shoot a few more parts as things go along.

[@valeriexoxo]

After photo

[@IDKWTFIDA]

Why use expensive plywood when you can build a sturdier kick base using 2x4s? No ripping necessary. Build, level, and then tapcon to the concrete floor using scrap wood screwed into the inside of the kick frame. It’s a lot quicker and the cabinets will be sitting on 1 1/2 wide 2x4 instead of 3/4 plywood.

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Fair point Jason- all the cabinet shops that I’ve installed for always use plywood or even particle board, because you can count on it to be straight and not warp.

[@kds471]

Have you tried finding straight 2x stock? It’s impossible lol. Also most kicks are 4”+

[@therealmfwic9503]

Technically if you claimed you videotaped it but the camera wasn’t on can you actually say you videotaped it????

[@georgeomalley6066]

🐕😂🤣😂

[@Oops-IMeantToDoThat]

I can't believe your implying wood will hold "thousands of pounds. As explained the nail provides zero assistance, and in fact weakens the extra ply piece. First of all, as they're shorter than the kick THEY'RE NOT SUPPORTING ANY WEIGHT ON THIER OWN (top to bottom). Secondly, any support not directly below the top-to-bottom pieces of the cabinet support the cabinet at all (they might support the content of that space or drawer). Adding extra "rock solid" ply pieces, attached by a nail and glue, only spread the weight of the adjacent kickplate thousands of pounds directly to the nail and glue attachment - which means all of those thousands of pounds are initially transfered to the point which is the nail (approx 1/16 inch). That nail will slice through the ply with before the extra ply supports it, and the glue would fail mid-slice. All you've essentially done is hide your ply scrap out of sight. If you really need to support thousands of pounds, don't use ply or OSB. Use a 2x4 (or whatever spacing you need heightwise).

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Nope. These kicks are absurdly strong. I've made 100's of them, zero failure.

[@nicolecrystal6765]

nOT WORTH WATCHING AFTER THIS

[@macmilleur4165]

Jesus and God in the same video! Either you are a preacher or you need to not misuse God's name, and ask Him to save you instead. Cheers!

[@mrki412]

Here in Europe we don't use stone, marble cabinet tops and one leg can withstand over 500 pounds (250 kg) so that is not so easy to break when you add them more. But I like your video and American way of thinking, overbuild kitchen in wooden house. :-)