The Singer Featherweight 221 / 301 Hook: Why You Maybe Shouldn’t FMQ or Darn and How to Avoid Damage

[@SewingMachineRehab]

Very interesting topic! Over the years I have heard quilters say that they absolutely love the hook on the 301 and 221 specifically for quilting. I am not sure how many of them free motion on them, I think the majority of them use them for piecing. Obviously piecing and free motion quilting are very different actions. I think the damage we see to the thread loop guard also comes from trying to sew through too many layers of fabric or really heavy duty things. When you look at the hook on the 301 and 221 I also think about how easy they are to remove and adjust. (In my opinion) That would have been a plus for any home seamstress who wanted to maintain their machine. They are pretty straightforward. Now, moving on to the hooks in say the 400 series….way better for free motion, less problems while you are sewing, for sure! Also, I see way less damage on these hooks when I restore them. I am sure that is because their design is actually better. But…when it comes to adjusting and general maintenance, they feel just a little bit trickier. If you don’t have the thread clearance set correct around the bobbin case positioning spring bracket or something is wonky with the positioning finger (I have had to replace those) you can really pull your hair out. So…I think you will find that people are divided into two camps on this. But you are definitely correct, the 301/221 hook assembly wasn’t the best design and prone to problems. I never have taken one off without finding thread wrapped around inside.

[@thevmc]

Absolutely! It's a total cinch to remove and service, and you'll never mis-time it because of the flat spot it screws back onto (as long as you make sure the hook is on that side, of course!) The 400/500 series also can be removed with preserved timing, though it's much tricker and you have to make sure to mesh the gear attached to the bottom of the hook back up with its mate correctly. Totally agree that for piecing and regular straight sewing these are probably just great, but I just cringe at the potential for burrs and spooling thread! Interesting also that we have two machines with the same hook, one with straight needle and the other the first slant -- makes you want to do some trials and comparisons to see if there really is an advantage/disadvantage!

[@SewingMachineRehab]

@@thevmc I seem to find the needle strikes more on the 301 than the 221...but that could be because I have restored more of the 301's. Now that you say that I am going to start making some notes and see what I find. :)

[@thevmc]

@@SewingMachineRehab That's great! Only way to know is to get some data...

[@1953childstar]

@@SewingMachineRehab I would venture to guess it is because of the slant needle ...

[@avelsgard78]

Thank you so much for this info! I was gifted with a family keepsake from my dear son in law's grandmother. I definitely don't want to harm it because I really want to gift it to one of their girls when they get bigger. I want to be a good caretaker and this was great!

[@thevmc]

That's wonderful! Hope it was helpful.

[@adventureswithrusty2012]

Great video. Bernina's first rotary hook domestic machines were copies of Singer 221 rotary hook, such as the Kl. 117. Not quite interchangeable, but clearly copied. I've also found Featherweights with the hook a little too far away from the needle, so easier to catch the guard.

[@thevmc]

Thanks! My knowledge is limited mostly to Singers (because I feel I only have so much time!) but I love to hear about other makes. Hope Bernina was able to improve slightly on the Singer hook! Shame that the metal on the guard is so soft...if it were harder it might actually sharpen the needle a little!

[@adventureswithrusty2012]

@@thevmc My knowledge in more on the vintage Bernina's :-) I've not noticed the same kind of deep gauging on the guard, so maybe a harder metal. But still very susceptible to thread jams.

[@davidjohnston4240]

This is interesting. My wife has a 221 and a 222. The 222 is fine. The 221 has problems with thread getting behind the bobbin case. I'll be pulling them out and checking for the damage you describe.

[@r.duroucher225]

What a great video. You're right, this isn't something I've seen discussed elsewhere.

[@thevmc]

Glad you liked! And glad I could bring this issue up -- it's good to know!

[@jodiepotter6029]

Hello, I experienced the exact same thing with the soft metal on the needle bar clamp. I’m looking for a better fitting screwdriver head to use after it sits for awhile in some penetrating oil. Your video is very informative, I’m going to look at your other ones as well. I do have a question: where did you get the little black screwdriver? Looks super handy for those tiny screws. Thanks and looking forward to more of your content.

[@thevmc]

The black screwdriver is just a bit and a bit holder from a Chapman set :)

[@yc70jade]

Very helpful video! I cleaned up mt new-to-me FW 222 and found a big clump of thread behind the hook I've never seen in my other vintage machines. I got the FW for my small space, to use for piecing and make clothes. I played with a little bit of darning yesterday and it felt so awkward I wouldn't FMQ with it . The harp is too small & motor isn't overly powerful either. I'd need to find a table for my 201 to FMQ with 🤔

[@thevmc]

Wow, a 222! That's great. Glad I could be helpful. At least the FW/301 hook is easy to remove and service-- that said, you never really _need_ to remove the horizontal ones, really...

[@yc70jade]

@@thevmc Would you be able to do a video on how to remove the hook on a 222?