The "Skate-slide" dyno move

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

Thanks to everyone who already answered the questionaire

[@TheMacroGravity]

Love the creativity, especially the grind on the black one! Both black and red look legitimately dangerous though, Iˋm just glad theyˋre not at a gym in my area so I donˋt have to watch 😅

[@mats1365]

If you’ve ever wondered why ankle injuries are getting more common with climbers, that black problem should tell you everything you need to know

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

Tbh it looks a lot worse than it felt. Most sideway-dynos I’ve done are more strenuous on the ankle. But yeah, these parkour-like-moves do increase the risk of those injuries. On the other hand, they reduce the risk of finger injuries!

[@ferdik6640]

@@EmilAbrahamsson very optimistic perspective there. It‘s true though :D

[@eidreen]

Hey Emil, from a setter-viewpoint, I do love the creative setting but I also wonder how appropriate they are for a commercial set. Normal gym visitors have a lot less body awareness and can't always judge what could be dangerous. I can totally see some people slipping out of the toehook and falling head or back first onto the red starting hold. I do feel that as setters, we have a responsibility towards the customers and should try to eliminate as many risks as possible. That being said, love your videos, especially your outdoor sessions

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

Heyo! It's fair question, and a tricky one at that. How much is too much? I do agree that minimising risk should be at the forefront of what we think of as setters, and at the same time "push" ideas forward. I think generally the best we can do is to stick around after hours and assess how the sets are, and see if there seems to be an unnecessary risk of injury. Thanks by the way!

[@charleslabuz909]

I 100% agree on this one. I wish Emil had provider a more thoughtful response. He seems to have deflected your observation with a question rather than actually reflecting on the appropriateness of the climb. It’s good KZbin content, but does this actually stay up on the wall?

[@hermannwigers8321]

I was also quite terrified watching that part!

[@nicksohacki7114]

your belief that people can't judge for themselves whether a boulder is too dangerous for them or not is bad

[@eidreen]

@@nicksohacki7114 how is that bad? It is so obviously true. You wouldn't believe the dangerous things I have seen people do on problems that I thought were completely safe. I'm not saying that nobody can judge what is dangerous and what isn't but the generation that grew up in gyms never had to learn how to assess risk (especially because indoor climbing is pretty safe). You don't have to think where and how you might fall and positions your pads accordingly. There are mats everywhere. Isn't it enough if one person gets badly hurt because of something that could have been avoided?

[@vincentvanheerden63]

Really creative setting. Red route seems unnecessary and obviously dangerous though, I personally don't think the top is worth the risk. As a climber I generally expect the setters to prioritise safety, as you've said before injury is the greatest barrier to climbing progress.

[@G.Giorgio]

i love the creativity - personally i like the red one best

[@LudovicoMorellato]

The "skiing part" of the black seems an incredibly good feature for competition boulders, I can really see it being used at a World Cups in the future. Big congrats for the idea and thank you for sharing it!

[@mikew.6897]

Red one looks awesome! My ankles would probably snap doing the skiing part on black though Still, I love this set. Thumbs up!

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

Thanks my friend!

[@defx]

7:40 your feet sleep there and the spine or head is coming down on that start hold. Nasty

[@blitzroute66]

That's the beta I ended up on with the red one! Ended up planching it out and standing on the horn though as my legs weren't long enough to walk the feet the whole way up. Fun problem!

[@chocolatetobi]

Emil, I've seen your black ski jump all over social media and how it's controversial but I love the amount of trust you have to have with yourself for such a move and I think it's a great new move, I'd project that boulder.

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

Hey mate, thank you for saying so! It’s a bit scary to put out ideas tbh and it’s certainly easier to not do/post anything. But at the same time it’s also a lot more fun to challenge the norm and pre-built ideas we have!

[@senorblondie]

As a setter I'd be concerned about putting that red XXL hold at the bottom for fear of a climber falling on it. The one that looks similar to a Kilter Teagan Stalactite... As a skater as well I dig the black tail slide you put in the problem.

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

Haha nice that the skater vibes came across 🛹 No other problems climbed above the red stalactite, but I can see your concern regarding the red one though

[@andm6847]

the climbs are awesome but also a bit dicey. i guess after the first guy crashes his face into the lower hold of the red boulder the gym will ask you to remove that one. same for the black one if someone sprains an ankle.

[@codyheiner3636]

That red looks epic! And also the green spin one from before. I really really wish there were boulders like those at my gym!

[@Jackwithoneeye]

That dual tex grind is so sick easily the coolest use of a duel tex hold I have seen . It's experimenting with different things like this that will push the sport forward indoors. I love pulling hard on crimps on steep walls and that hasn't gone away but the sport can't stagnate on that like some people seem to want. I honestly don't think that move in particular looked crazy dangerous . It's hard to tell without trying it myself but I feel I have seen way more dangerous setting at commercial gyms .

[@Theboardbro]

Such a fantastic video!

[@KarelFaf]

Very creative modern boulders!

[@adventureawaits6923]

Damn those are some dope boulder problems, excellent setting my good sir, excellent indeed!

[@Sepp2009]

the foothold slide is ingenious! well done

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

Thanks!

[@abdelcassoul]

That "ski tour" boulder reminded me of a "Slab of the day" in one of Magnus videos from a while ago, with the same principle where you have to slide on a dual text hold

[@joofyplayz4380]

Maan I wanna try the black one so bad, looks like a lot of fun.

[@hannibal3143]

Cool boulders! Using the dual tex to slide is a really interesting idea.

[@rontaulbee6670]

I really want to climb that red one. Looks very fun and challenging. Not sure I would have seen the beta if approaching the climb myself.

[@blitzroute66]

I ended up on that beta from trial and error! Saw someone start with a heel hook on the horn though which I wasn't tall enough to do!

[@TheBartek5251]

No way in hell I would try the red one 😂. The only thing I see in that boulder is potential to break the neck.

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

Haha that's alright, I for sure can't say everyone will like it :-P

[@0xlauw]

The black grind is gnarly

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

Bringing back my skater dayz

[@thestereokid6073]

haha, I spent so much time turning my head upside down while watching this!

[@camerondear3723]

Fantastically creative sets, would love to experience an Emil original! :)

[@FLuffehepiczorelite]

Jesper! Kingen i Solna!! Många lunch klättringar man kollade på han och tappade hakan hur lätt han fick allt att se ut!!

[@silenthicks]

yeah not liking the black and red - just asking for injuries. Blue one didn't look like anything too crazy but i guess its an easy grade

[@swoggofroggo9320]

Great vid

[@maxsnyder9084]

Great sets, but what trousers does jasper have on 👀

[@rockstarjazzcat]

I’d be curious to know what the injury rate was on parkour move.

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

0 Injuries, just got removed 2 days ago

[@rockstarjazzcat]

@@EmilAbrahamsson Clever problems for sure. The slip on a banana peel aspect of the parkour move just terrifies me. Perhaps with a helmet. ☺️

[@Dave_Ebert]

To me the black one just looks dangerous 😅 I'd love to try the red and blue one though

[@Michael-zz8yx]

Emil, would you try to lift the unliftable dumbbell? You once posted a video with stefano and andy were you guys had a lifting competition. You are a beast at the wide rolling grip and i bet you could lift it!

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

Haha following Browney or Brian shaw? Mate I would love to try

[@natalieminnis]

I'd love to try the red one, as long as no one was watching! Also I'm not sure my legs would reach.

[@idovock7791]

Super cool boulders but the part of the red one where you're upside down over a big jutting out hold is way too dangerous for a commercial gym.

[@pierrez8570]

You're a creative genius, but I'd be shit scared to climb on any of those boulders if they popped in my gym! Actually I'd try to break red and give up if it didn't work.

[@tobiasnas2219]

Asking because I dont know. It says the V1 = 4 - 6a. Then the next boulder it says 6a-6c which is V4? What is V2 and V3 then?

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

The V-grade to font grade conversion is a bit chaos around those grades. V0 = 4, V1 = 5/+, V2 = 6A/+, V3 = 6A+/6B/+, V4 = 6B+... It's doesn't translate very well unfortunately. I wrote ~V1, but the interval for blue tape is V0 - V3, and red rape V2 - V5 :-) Just tricky to specify.

[@tobiasnas2219]

@@EmilAbrahamsson Ok, I see. Thank you for the clarification! I have recently started climbing in Norway, but have been surprised at the lack of translatability from grades here to V-system.

[@Dan_Is_Aid]

Could we be blessed with some content that displays how flexible you are or what you do for normal stretches and why, when, and what you do them for? It would be cool to know your in depth Opinion 😆

[@deslomator]

I wonder if someone has managed to skip the big red scoop volume.

[@silasj.d16]

I'd be curious to see a few attempts by Emil at just skipping the 'ski' move. Does it really extend the distance by that much? Either way super cool concept!

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

Should've tried that on video as well.. It's not completely forced since thedual texture is so small, but it does make it a bit harder for me. Didn't do it without, but only tried a few times

[@johnosborn8881]

I love all the problems but I can't decide between the black and red. I just want to climb them all😝🤘

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

I’ll take that as a big win! Psyched you like them 😄

[@johndoh1000]

I would absolutely love you for the red and the blue, but I would hate how much I loved you for the black one. I’d be worried about my shoe rubber and my safety and probably ignore it after a couple of tries.

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

Haha yeah your shoe supplier would be happy about that one

[@Jagknorr]

Ive gone to the front desk of the gym before and told them of how great the setting has been. Ive never gone to the front desk to tell them how awful it is. A gym filled with these boulders however…id probably voice my complaints LOL 😂 i would never be able to figure out these weird problems without getting completely frustrated, move onto the next (even more) complex and ultra specific beta problem, and failing on that too haha i would ragequit the whole place hahaha 😅

[@SnowmansApartment]

i would love to see a sliding boulder in a world cup. =)

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

Me too, but I’m worried the route setters would get burned on a cross for it

[@maikburbach1348]

My ankle hurts just by watching the black one. I would never try it 😅

[@antoineboulanger1102]

Would love to help for the questionnaire. But as I'm not able to do so many of those exercises, I don't feel fit to judge... Keep going Emil, your content is great!

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

I appreciate the thought anyway :-) There's no right and wrong in there though, most people wouldn't be able to do many of the exercises that's for sure!

[@oliversaxon8656]

If that red tape is a V4 I’ve got a lot to answer for…. Wtf!!

[@kevinklein4338]

Love them!… but hate how easy they are rated… complex beta should have a factor on the grade IMO.

[@EmilAbrahamsson]

Hot take! Outdoors I disagree, but indoors I think it’s a fair point. The blue and red actually got bumped up one grade in the end!