The Solution to All My R6 Issues?!

[@PhilThach]

Auto-ISO is great for outdoor sports where the light is constantly changing and there is no time to adjust your shutter speed like you normally do. This is also true for wildlife. I do this and have my control ring set to exposure compensation. I think yours is set to K. For your type of work, setting a minimum shutter speed to protect yourself is a much better idea. I like that you are a $10,000 wedding photographer but you are still willing and able to learn things. Bravo!

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for sharing Phil!

[@zmzegare]

100% agree that it works well with Sport and wildlife photography when speed is the key and you don't have time to adjust for exposure.

[@badongtagalog5737]

Its also important in weedings where you need to act fast in a dimly lit situation. The less fidling you do the more moments you get.

[@actionimagesphotography]

I've never seen someone make something so hard that is so easy. Choose your exposure to what you want, put Auto iso on, set the camera to follow her eyes. done.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@neostephens8980]

She's a "pro" and not going take criticism lightly.

[@alvinblackwell268]

Totally agree 👍🏽

[@KatelynJames]

@@neostephens8980 🤣 I can handle a little KZbin comment. It’s true. This should be simple. I’ve just never used it before and I don’t prefer it. I make enough money to support a team of 7 full time employees being a “pro” for 13 years now so I’ll just keep doing my thing and ya’ll can keep doing what is working so well for you! 👍🏻🤪 I appreciate all this time you guys dedicate to my channel 😉

[@KatelynJames]

Not sure where you saw this labeled at “tutorial”? Also not sure what type of people you help on here but some people do more than tutorials, they show up and authentically show their process of trying something new. If I was a pro at this setting, I would have claimed it. You are claiming that for me because it makes you right about your opinion of me. That’s fine. I’m probably not your person on KZbin… but ironically… I get so much of your time. 🤣 thank you!

[@nickellejohnson4950]

That last one was a great suggestion! I changed mine right away! Because literally the next session I did AFTER I watched your video about the low shutter speed I did the same thing!! This will make me feel much safer!

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for sharing Nickelle!

[@AshlynManghane]

I’ve watched both videos and none of these issues are R6 problems. If you’re shooting manual, as you’ve stated, you’re the one physically changing the shutter speed. If you’re not aware of what your settings are throughout your session, respectfully, it’s a user error. The best thing to teach is shooting with purpose. To slow down and being more intentional. As someone who has also been shooting 13 years, teaches / trains other photographers, and owns a Canon r6, I don’t have any of these problems. I love all of your other videos and I usually don’t comment. I just don’t want these videos to deter anyone from purchasing the Canon R6, because it’s an incredible camera. This is said out of love, not judgement. So please don’t think I’m being negative. That’s not my intention.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for sharing!

[@WesleyDropDead]

Agree. How after 13 years does someone not pay attention to what settings they are on? The way it was worded made it seem like the r6 had an issue which is what made me interested in watching it. But I guess that’s the nature of KZbin titles these days.

[@eschrad]

@@WesleyDropDead It’s probably not the best title… it’s more of a mirrorless vs DSLR shooting “problem”. She explained it in the previous video. Basically, in taking advantage of the feature of mirrorless cameras where you see your exposure before you shoot, she was “blindly” changing her shutter speed until her exposure looked good in the viewfinder and kind of forgot to keep an eye on what the actual shutter speed setting was. That was something she was more conscious of when making her exposure adjustments on her DSLR and would then adjust ISO simultaneously to keep her shutter speed high enough. But she got out of her normal exposure adjustment mechanics when she started shooting with her R6. Instead of pulling the camera away from her eye to change her settings, now she was just quickly spinning the shutter dial while looking through the viewfinder and paying attention only to the image levels and not the information readout. So if she can use a guardrail in camera to keep her from accidentally dropping below 1/125 or 1/250, that probably is her best solution. As for making auto ISO and exp. comp. work… I’m not sure why she was being held to focus and recompose, instead of moving her focus point or using facial/eye detection AF. Maybe it had something to do with her recorder… I don’t know. But I can see how that was throwing her off. Every time she recomposed, it changed what her spot meter was reading. It’s probably because she is a back button focuser, so when she recomposed and then went to hit her shutter, it took the meter reading again. She would need to disable AE on the shutter button.

[@thomasnordstrom1869]

@@eschrad spot on

[@davidpruitt3255]

@@eschrad 100% with you about her blindly changing shutter speed. But wedding days are stressful so I can see it happening by going too fast. As for the focus and recompose, she mentioned in the video that using the recorder for the viewfinder footage it disables her screen (limitation with Canon's) so instead of tapping on the screen as usual, she had to focus and recompose. She doesn't normally do this and mentioned it was an adjustment for her in the video. Personally I would have preferred they not use the viewfinder recording as it hampered the point they were trying to make so much.

[@brianasealy6257]

I truly love seeing you shoot through the camera like this! I think we could all learn from more videos like this! Just hands on watching you work through things and your flow, love it!

[@MarcS4R]

i have been shooting events with Auto ISO and Aperture Priority professionally for years. Minimum Shutter Speed set to 1/125 usually. Works great.

[@vitorvilar3446]

Best option..

[@erikkuypers7629]

Same here, the way to go as far as I’m concerned. Minimum shutter speed for portraits set to 1/250.

[@AngelDRodriguez]

Me too! Obviously depends on the camera how well this works but it works amazing for me!

[@astridtermaat3854]

Exactly! In this situation in bright sunlight is not the best example for auto ISO. I’m definitely saved a few times at weddings when I’m in the church and come outside, in bright sunlight.

[@ElBoyoElectronico]

After learning how to shot manual, I did exactly what you did. Works absolutely great!!

[@JohnMacLeanPhotography]

1:50 If you’re just shooting one person why not use Eye AF with tracking? Is that a recorder issue?

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@mrfightgreg]

Katelyn, the problem is you didn't go full auto. Does the R6 have the incredible FV mode? It's a game changer. The way I set up my EOS R was so that everything I want to shoot in auto, is in auto by default in FV mode. Then as soon as you change iso, shutter, aperture they stay locked in, but everything else is full auto. I use the lens control ring to change exposure (this is key*) and eye/face AF. The last thing I do is set the FV reset so that little useless tiny button on top resets everything back to full auto FV. You can still set your minimum shutter, I'm telling you the engineers that thought up this FV mode are brilliant and most dinosaurs don't use it. Just like wanting the joystick back haha. Who uses a joystick when your thumb can literally drag focus in a split second to anywhere in your viewfinder??? The multi function touch bar was actually a step forward and much more valuable than a joystick but everybody complained and now we get the uselss joystick back haha. It's absurd, embrace innovation people!

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@michaeloconnor3580]

I use auto ISO often to shoot dance in a theater setting, the light is shifting all over the place and I use the lowest shutter speed that freezes the motion enough usually 160 or 200th a wide aperture to let in as much light as possible, widest for solos and more depth for groups. Auto ISO follows the ever changing lighting when the shutter and aperture are essentially slammed to the limit due to the low light with dance in motion. Exposure compensation also becomes necessary for spotlights and backlights, that is what I have track and move around during the performance.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@DanielGrovePhoto]

Not sure if you've covered it before but there's also a shutter speed limit setting so it won't go below a set value. Thanks for making great content for us all!

[@KatelynJames]

Glad it is helpful!

[@amitabhmohanty5432]

Why would you not move the focal point instead of decomposing? That would solve the problem of exposure shifting.

[@dustmicks1]

I think the r6 is so good even with high iso. That instead of changing the shutter speed, just raising the iso manually for more light

[@terrythorn301]

Right. Easy to do with R6. Good point.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@petergray6050]

Hi, I'm a bit of a newby at this--what is the piece of equipment on the top of your camera ?

[@KatelynJames]

It is an atmos ninja 5. It is just used here for educational purposes to show and record my screen.

[@thegroove2000]

I have also started to use auto iso but not to go over 800 on my lumix camera and also if in low light conditions and see noise I wack out topaz denoise as that does a sterling job of repairing.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@carlosread5887]

This video shows you really read the comments. Very good! I understand your point. Thanks for trying auto ISO

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks so much Carlos!

[@carlosread5887]

@@KatelynJames Just last night I was at a conference. I set my speed at 1/200 (I was using my 70-200 handheld) to make sure no motion blur ocurred, and set my aperture to f5.6 because I didn't want extra shallow depth of field. I was constantly changing my ISO manually. ISO is just another variable in the correct exposure formula. I am glad the R6 has the ISO control dial so accesible. Thanks again for your videos!

[@carlosread5887]

You have encouraged me to be paying attention to what I do with such a capable camera.

[@erikkuypers7629]

Hi Katelyn, I followed a lot of your courses, basically because: 1. You own the same camera, 2. You’re creative approach, 3. Your editing skills and high-end delivery, 4. Your preset and black and white proces, 5. Learning how to pose people, 6. Learning about secondary light and consistency and of course your personality! But, technically 🙈. Still love you ❤️

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@mariocassar6087]

Good morning from Sunny Malta. Love your posts….so fresh.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for listening

[@frankfhurt]

It is fascinating how naturally you speak to the camera. Good job!

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@SonnyBCreative]

auto-iso is great for shooting video for events, but you have to limit it or the camera will go to extremely high numbers in low light situations.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@Notsosamurai1]

If you want to use auto ISO without worrying about it going to high you can set up the low and high limit of auto ISO in the settings like the minimum shutter speed.

[@halfknott]

Another thing to try is to set the slowest shutter speed your camera will do to a 1/125 th, so it won't let you dial your shutter speed slower, so when you're adjusting things it'll stop at 1/125th and then you'll notice and then adjust ISO.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@capture_the_stoke9646]

I’m a fan of manual mode with auto iso, then using the control ring you can control iso if you don’t want to use exposure comp. Been working a treat for me

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@alansach8437]

FLV mode on the r6 lets you set what you want when you want or go 100% manual as conditions warrant. All without changing modes. It has been a game changer for me.

[@rachelcushingweddingvideog6]

You mentioned that you don’t focus and recompose. How do you focus? It’s one thing that I feel I can’t trust my camera to do so am constantly tapping the screen but it’s slow and I miss shots or some are unfocused

[@KatelynJames]

I move my focal point!

[@SoJesusChristMusic]

I’ve never understood what exposure compensation is IN FULLY MANUAL MODE. I thought manual mode is so you adjust the exposure independently vs in one rookie setting. I’m confused 😂 I heard someone say ISO, Aperture, and Shutter is exposure…that’s why I’ve never understood exposure in Fully Manual Mode. What is Exposure Compensation doing exactly 🤔

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@Augnos]

Exposure compensation only works when there are automated parameters. When you shoot full manual, it doesn’t “compensate” anything, and adjusting it won’t change your exposure at all.

[@maggiecollinsphotography195]

LOVEEEEEEEEEE This! I just set mine to 250! THANKS sweetheart!

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks Maggie!!

[@susheeltm]

If you are on full manual, why do you have to set the shutter speed range?

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@pawellesniakcrx]

Aperture priority, autoiso from 100-25600, shutter min. speed at 1/250 - alle problems solved ;) working like that from 3 years. You just seting aperture and using exposition wheel to make picture "brighter or darker" . thats it.. works perfectly

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for sharing!

[@arunashamal]

You can set it to lock exposure (not talking about using ae-l button) and lock focus with the half press/ back button. That is the problem you are facing. Your camera is only locking focus, not exposure. Therefore when you recompose, it recalculate exposure for where the focus point now rests. with that function enabled, it would work like a charm.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for sharing!

[@MrSalanter]

Thx!

[@ven1536]

​@KatelynJames I understand you tho I kinda miss the dslr system in which the control was fully in your hands I feel the same way with all these mirrorless cameras

[@JuanLopezmusica]

what's the brand of the clear filter you have in your lens?

[@lguthrie2067]

What is the setup with your flash? what is that?

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@den3759]

Thanks for teaching me how to shoot raw and dual record in Raw and JPEG indirectly through this video.

[@KatelynJames]

Anytime!

[@Fidalgodev]

Insteaf of focus and recompose, couldnt' you just enable eye tracking and it would just grab her eye?

[@KatelynJames]

Great idea!

[@wastedtalentusa]

I understand that using a camera in complete auto is not really professional. But, to let the camera pick the iso, now that it doesn't compromise image quality, it is not a matter of letting the camera thinking for you. It doesn't make any photographer less or more professional or in control of their work. I know that you didn't say that, but I know where it comes from: professionals shoot manual. Flash in manual. Camera in manual. Sometimes technology helps. The same thing was with focus (in the past). "I don't use auto focus at all". Now, we just select one focus point, and we let the camera do the rest. So, sometimes we need to get advantage of technology, and it doesn't make us less professional to the world.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching

[@arunashamal]

take a look at wedding photographers who charge 30-50k or world famous magnum photographers. Many of them just use P... professionals don't have time to fiddle with settings. Shooting Auto isn't professional is a conspiracy theory.

[@wastedtalentusa]

@@arunashamal sometimes you have to input your own settings to get the specific results you want, or to maintain the style, the look, your photography identify. But, if some 50K photographers shoot in P and it is working for them, that's fine too. Everyday, technology is letting people focus more in style, creativity, and less in how the camera works. We just need to get use to it. Some people will say it's not fair, but we can't fight it.

[@line13sh]

Thank si much for this great advise! i was just thinking about paying attention but i deeply appreciate your suggestion of shooting at higher iso

[@toofy7253]

I use auto iso in video RAW or 10 bit pro res HQ 422 so that I can adjust easy in post. I look at the waveform and adjust to whatever value I want. My brain is too slow to not do auto iso in fast situations

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@ryansalasphotography]

so this is what i do on my canon rp. i'm using manual and set the lowest shutter speed to 1/125 and change it manually if my subject is moving really fast. for aperture i set it to 1.8 most of the time cause that's how i like it and i'm always using auto iso and set the max range of 6400. the reason for that is 6400 iso is the highest usable iso for my taste, you can go higher if your camera handles it very well or just don't care of the noise. note that i'm using Variable ND Filter during the day so i don't crank up my shutter speed every time especially if i want to capture a motion. also i'm using Servo AF instead of One Shot AF. hope this simple settings helps for beginners. Happy Shooting

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@Augnos]

I’m sure it’s been mentioned, and this video is a year old at this point, but Evaluative Metering mode works with Whole Area AF, especially with metering for faces. Evaluative metering is a pretty smart metering mode, and will adjust your settings to meter for what you are focusing on. That said, I’ve never really been a fan of auto exposing while in single point AF, because the metering modes wouldn’t work well for me in the past. With the newer cameras, the auto exposure works insanely well, the caveat being that you are using Whole Area AF with Evaluative Metering.

[@FerryKnijnFotografie]

Why still focus recompose??? just move te focus point or use face detection!

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@nonnoboni]

I think that with mirrorless technologies it’s a good idea to expose full manually because you have final result before you shot in the viewfinder. I always have done like this and I love it.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@Jvaldes609]

Are you just using the 24-70 F2 and the 85mm? A majority of the time.

[@KatelynJames]

Yes!

[@elizabethreifsnyder529]

It’s the funniest thing, I was listening and understanding everything you were saying. Then as soon as Ty comes on, it’s like, he started speaking Russian and I had to *FOCUS* to get what he was saying. I just learn so much better from other women!!!

[@KatelynJames]

Ha ha he has that effect

[@MadManTnT]

There is a setting to lock exposure when the shutter is half pressed. This would lock the iso to the value you or the camera found on the place where the focus point was set. In your camera might be off as its changes when you recompuse.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for sharing!

[@Manihsi]

Set minimum shutter speed and make sure not going below that ( unsafe zone) 👍🏼

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks!

[@thesharpercoder]

Did you know that when you use ISO Auto in M mode that you can program the SET button for exposure compensation? The R6 has the Fv modes, which allow you to give the camera a different way of automatically only adjusting ISO.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for sharing!

[@anildangol]

The reason why your focus recompose chaging exposure may be because you have assigned the half press to metering? just my guess.

[@KatelynJames]

Good point!

[@kingweddingmedia]

Unless I’m using flash, I almost always use auto iso and exposure compensation to adjust accordingly. I find it to be a bit of a safety net and much faster to shoot in that I will likely never have a shot that’s too over/underexposed, and typically only have to adjust shutter and aperture for the effect I want, camera will sort iso.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for sharing!

[@robdtoys]

I really stay away from Auto ISO like the plague! I had my thumb wheel on the R5/R6 set to ISO and when the camera was at my side it would always get bumped to ISO. I fixed this by having my ISO now using the Set button and shutter dial. The thumb wheel is now reserved for Kelvin.I just like being in total control so I agree with everything you mentioned.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for sharing

[@joycady8325]

I’m with you, I totally like to be in control of my camera settings, no auto anything.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching Joy!

[@alansach8437]

Here's a question. Why spend the money for one of these modern technological marvels and then not use the technology? Kind of a waste of money.

[@trevortidwell8819]

Yes setting the minimum available shutter speed is the best for you. Go team "Minimum shutter speed.". I have tried what you did in this video and quickly realized that I needed to focus and recompose what I was getting away from with the mirrorless setup.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@TheBurtonsAreHere]

I noticed you said that your device on the R6 disable touch and drag. In this situation when using a single subject are you still not comfortable with the eye tracking ?

[@KatelynJames]

I could have switched to eye tracking

[@TheBurtonsAreHere]

@@KatelynJames do you use your C1-C3 at all ?

[@ymmichael1]

Older Canon camera here - but I've been loving auto ISO in place of when I'd use Aperture Priority mode, rather than in place of when I'd use Manual. On the other hand - what Canon could add to help is *warn* below a minimum shutter speed, rather than *block* it. That would be a setting you could leave on all the time, and selectively ignore when necessary.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@clairemacnamaraphotographe]

I was thinking the same. Simple option, that would be the perfect solution for me... Hello, Canon, do you hear us ? ;-)

[@kriswysong6038]

I tend to shoot in auto iso mode unless I’m in a low light situation and purposely don’t want the higher iso settings because of noise in the image. I think the bigger issue though is slow shutter speeds creating motion blur. Most of the time Lightroom saves my butt on an underexposed or overexposed image whereas it can’t really do much with a blurry image. Love my r6 though, good advice!

[@Garbid]

I use a6600 and auto iso is set for 6400 max. Sure r6 also has that option.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks!

[@StevenCress]

I'm also a Sony shooter, and I set a number on the control dial to be Aperture priority with auto iso and minimum shutter speed. I set my maximum iso and set my minimum shutter speed to a custom button on the camera, so I can quickly change it for different scenarios. Mark Galer, a Sony ambassador, has a very informative video about this. This is the only way I shoot, and honestly, it's so good, it seems like there's not much point in shooting manual. I'd miss so many shots. Maybe this feature didn't work as well on older cameras?

[@TherconJair]

Just one thing to mention here: if you shoot lower ISO and keep the image purposefully darker, then increase exposure in post it will have more noise than the same photo exposed to the same final brightness in camera with higher ISO. I'd post my test pictures here where I tried this out because I once thought keeping ISO lower and increasing exposure in post was better than the other way around, but links in comments probably get flagged. I can just say: boy was I wrong.

[@arunashamal]

A grainy image is always better than a blurry image

[@papje]

Daylight I don't use the auto-iso only indoors

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for sharing!

[@OMalleyKing]

Have you tried the setting in the camera where you can lock it to not go lower then a certain shutter speed? Not sure if that was in your last video or not. I lock mine to not go lower than what I’m comfortable with and then just turn that off when I need to go lower for reception dancing or something like that

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@paulfrye9295]

Just use evaluative metering, keep the camera in program mode for all natural light shots and touch up with exposure compensation as needed. I’ve been doing photography since 1972 when I became our yearbook photographer. All we had was manual then. You guys have it easy! Stop trying to make photography difficult!!!

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for sharing!

[@thesharpercoder]

When using digital cameras with high AF point counts, instead of focusing and recomposing, you can meter and recompose focus. When using Spot Metering is they R6 only metering at the circle in the center of the view? When you use Evaluative Metering, then camera meters the scene at locked AF point. Digital cameras allow for completely different shooting techniques compared to film. Zone AF modes are more reliable than you might realize. It allows the camera to focus and meter with any active AF point.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@JasonSavage71]

Hi Katelyn, love the vids, learning lots from them, what's the big item attached to the top of your cam? looks interesting 😊.

[@KatelynJames]

It just records my camera screen

[@CamilleSnow]

Great video, very helpful! What king of monitor are you using here?

[@KatelynJames]

Atamos Ninja 5

[@CamilleSnow]

Nice!

[@photographybyliamanderson1659]

So staying on manual after seeing this :P gives me anxiety especially for a wedding when I need to know.

[@KatelynJames]

Totally agree!

[@terrythorn301]

Place your focus on the back button and your exposure lock on the shutter button. Focus with AF-On, half press shutter, and recompose. Becomes second nature.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@richardcollinsphotography1288]

I do the same for street photography and birds in flight with the RF 100-400 but I leave my exposure compensation +1. The screen recorder seems to make this harder than what it is.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching

[@neostephens8980]

This video reminds me of the Northrup's (great photographers, but when they find a product they don't like, they try to make it seem as if the product is flawed or difficult to use). Seems like when people get popular on KZbin, they become the "bee's knees.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for sharing!

[@adictcreativephotography5267]

Yes, yes and yes. The headache of semi-auto settings. 😂

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@juankaskitchen]

Loved this video, Kate. Thank you!

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks so much!

[@npsproductions]

I am glad i found ur chanell,u explain things so well

[@sergiooliveira4351]

why focus and recompose?

[@KatelynJames]

It was because the screen recorder attached to my camera disabled touch and drag.

[@sergiooliveira4351]

@@KatelynJames I love your videos and I have to confess that to see you use focus&recompose with a mirrorless was making me a little confused 🙂 Thanks for replying!

[@gogobingbong]

This has quickly become one of my favourite youtube channels. I shoot mostly everything with a zoom lens and have decided to make the jump today and bought the RF 28-70. Thank you for all your content on it, I'm so excited !!!

[@KatelynJames]

You’re gonna love it!

[@angelogarciajr5356]

Auto ISO never works for me. It messes up way more photos that way. I have tried it shooting softball. Batter is in the shade, fielders in bright sun. Going from batter to fielders is impossible. So I tried auto ISO to solve this and it was no help for me. Now I take the batter, if the ball is hit, I turn the shutter down 3 stops as fast as I can. Forget auto ISO.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@itaylorm]

Auto ISO helps me a lot with wildlife photography when I suddenly will see something I wish to photograph and don't have a lot of time to make adjustments.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for sharing!

[@fasttracksportsphotography6311]

Auto ISO is a life saver when you are in situations where the light is always changing and when your subject is changing in relation to the light source. Full manual works for your style of photography where the subject is relatively static.

[@luisrodrigues4415]

Your problem seems to me to have a lot to do with the exposure metering modes. Modern cameras produce a sensitive effect that affects the photometer reading. I also noticed that you tend to focus and then recompose, which seems unnecessary since you can use face detection and compose without worrying about the autofocus, as the system keeps the person's face detectable, this prevents that when there is recomposition the exposure changes suddenly

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@luisrodrigues4415]

@@KatelynJames this is true??

[@1NATURELOVERJ]

I am having issues with my EOS R and using Godox flashes. It sometimes switches to AUTO ISO. Most of my wedding ceremonies are on the beach and couple's portraits are against a beautiful sunset. The AUTO ISO makes it impossible to get properly exposed couples in the foreground and a little darker sunset background. AUTO ISO takes away most of the creativity.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@katasticone]

Have had my R6 for a few weeks now and here's what I've settled on. SS and Aperture are the creative things I want to control. ISO just is what it is. So, I'm playing around with shooting in Manual with Auto ISO. I tried FV, but didn't care for the interface and IIRC, Exposure Comp goes away (it may have been a different control - but I lost the ability to do SOMETHING in Fv --- though I may play around with it more.).

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for sharing Kathie!

[@JohnLe]

is that a polarizing filter on your lens?

[@KatelynJames]

No it is not.

[@madisonzeagler5149]

I have read that the minimum shutter speed is only in effect in P or Av mode. Does it work in manual??

[@thomasnordstrom1869]

It also works in manual mode

[@KatelynJames]

Yes it works for us!

[@Todd_Kuhns]

What you call under exposed in auto ISO actually looks good. What you call proper exposure seems over to me. That is where the "light and airy" style wobbles from a technical standpoint.

[@khushallam1439]

Why didn't you use eye af? Would've made focusing alot easier

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@Kritischer_Geist]

My first Thought.

[@parmanduke]

Haha. 90% of the time I shoot auto ISO. 99% hit rate with my R6 with any lens EF or RF

[@KatelynJames]

Haha. Glad to hear it works for you!

[@CaptainJack63]

I’ve been hitting 99% with auto iso too! I’m learning to trust what the camera is doing yet I keep an eye 👁 on it just in case it goes crazy. I’ve only seen it happened once.

[@SoJesusChristMusic]

Every since I was told ISO adds noise I try to keep it as low as possible…but recently on my R I found out that I can go up to 6400 without the image looking unusable…So what I did is went into my settings and made it where my camera will not even allow me to go any higher than 6400 in any mode. Though I try to stay around 400-800 and 100-400 goal…I know that I can go up to 6400 if needed without totally destroying the image…but if I’m in the 400-800 range I’m happy

[@JohnPaul-gh1fh]

Great video..! I completely agree, and relate to you on every point you made.. I've been a "M" shooter since I started shooting weddings, while wearing a tux, back in 1994, lugging around Medium Format cameras. Some old school techniques are just better. Cheers!

[@aligeo4030]

What is that flash you’re using!

[@KatelynJames]

Canon 600 exrt ii

[@THSimagery]

Off the bat, auto iso fixed those blown out highlights. We can always brighten, we cannot recover blown highlights

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@hom296]

Hey Katelyn...Have you ever had an R6 stop working (shooting stills) on a really hot day? I took my R6 with me to a job photographing a home exterior, but it was close to 100 degrees in the evening. Camera died. Had to send it to Canon repair. Not repaired yet but they charged me mucho $$ just to look at it. Just curious if you have had that issue... Joe Homsy

[@ResurrectedBrush]

I was in a similar boat of being anti-auto anything. However, I've found that the R6's auto ISO is pretty decent in about 65-75% of situations. By keeping my dial available to override when it does get it wrong, I find I can use auto ISO in quite a lot of fast moving situations, or where the lighting is changing subtly and I don't want to keep manually hopping back and forth. For example, when shooting toasts at weddings where the head table might be slightly better lit than the person with the mic. When moving back and forth from one subject to the other, auto ISO does a pretty decent job of keeping up. Having said that, given that this video began with a discussion about motion blur, I will never understand why photographers will hamstring their steadiness by holding the camera away from their bodies. Yes, the live view function is great and all and immensely useful for some situations, but utilizing the viewfinder will always create much more stable shooting, even with modern image stabilization.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@jlawr4427]

Use the R6 with the 28-70mm lens, set the shutter at 1/250, f2.0, and auto ISO. Shoot in the different lighting situations you would in a wedding and process the images. You will NEVER have a motion blur image. I doubt you will see any noise. Your life will be so much easier. Trust the camera, or buy the R5.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@jlawr4427]

@@KatelynJames I rewatched the video and noticed you don't seem to like auto ISO with spot metering. If you just meter only on your subject and use exposure compensation without recomposing, I think your "fear of lack of control" will abate. It doesn't seem like you're afraid of giving up focus control to the camera. Let go of manual shutter adjustment and switch to manual ex. comp. Be happy. If you set minimum shutter speed to 250, you'll STILL need to manually adjust ISO to get the correct exposure. Trust this fabulous auto ISO technology in this camera the way you trust auto-focusing. Again, learn to stay on your subject while adjusting ex. comp. Oh, and why not display the small histogram in the viewfinder so you'll know when you are in zone 4 or 5 Sorry, I just couldn't help myself trying to help you NOT need to be an "over-shooter." And congrats on the new coming baby.

[@nelsono4315]

I just happened upon this video while browsing youtube and I have to say it confused me. If you are used to shooting manual all the time that means you control the triangle of ISO, shutter speed and aperture. How does your shutter speed get too slow without you knowing it? If you're the one setting it? Or did I miss something?

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching Nelson

[@EmilyMagers22]

do you notice your ISO showing more grain in lower light? i thought my r6 would be better in low light than my mkiv but i'm not impressed

[@AustinRoss]

Why are you shooting in One Shot instead of Servo? Why are you not using the joystick to place the focus point (instead of the touch screen | enabled under C.Fn3)? Why are you not using head tracking (arguably the biggest strength of the R5/R6)? Change Initial Point for AF Tracking from Auto to either of the options (Page AF5 | Recommend following the other focus points) which gives you back control on where you want it to attach focus (like you were doing here), and then compose. Choose 0 on AF4 -- Switching Tracked Subjects if you need that locked on person to be extra sticky. Eye AF is great, but if you're shooting a group, ehhh. Lastly (and I don't really get why it's in a different spot) -- ISO Speed Settings on Shoot2 -- Change the Auto Range. You can limit what your ISO can climb to so it won't be wildly different. I get that you've been using a DLSR for the past X years, but don't be afraid to use the assists of the new. :) Thanks for the content and walk through!

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@JanineMKartist]

What’s that on top of your camera?

[@natashadaleportraits]

Thanks for keeping it real Katelyn. I love the fact that you are willing to point out flaws (so that the manufacturers can work on issues) and not just 'hype up' a product. Oh, I also noted that your grass looks magnificent now (I know that you had some issues of patchiness a while back)...let's just call that a Photographer's eye..haha :)

[@KatelynJames]

Haha thanks!!

[@eddiemcdowell1175]

Try shooting manual but set aperture and shutter speed first then manually adjust iso to get desired exposure

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for sharing!

[@lobanrahmantonoy4130]

I shoot portrait and Landscape images. For me Auto ISO is more difficult than full manual. I fix my ISO, and aperture, then just change the shutterspeed. It is not that difficult to change shutterspeed on a fly. Having images almost similar in exposure helps a lot in editing. For sports and wildlife, the story is different.

[@michaelmcdonald3345]

If I'm on a tripod (and stable) I set the ISO. If I'm hand held and moving around, I set the ISO to Auto. Aperture and shutter speed I set. Works for me. Like your videos.

[@dubbleA100]

I might put that max shutter on when I'm doin photos with on camera flash ☝🏿

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@markk2473]

How does changing from ISO 100 to say ISO 400 effect your batch editing? Also what are you going to do if limiting your shutter to 1/250 results in an underexposed image? Are you then bumping your ISO or opening up your shutter?

[@Seitenwerk]

Usually you would raise iso as aperture is something you choose for the related visual effects. Iso on the other hand can go pretty high without a problem

[@jensgaethje8555]

I think the point is that with mirrorless cameras you have the visual feedback where you are at with the exposure. When the light changes and the shutter limit darkens your exposure you bump up the ISO for the scene. So all shots from this scene will be exactly same exposure and can be fully batch edited. Auto ISO will also raise in this situation, however it will adjust all the time when you change your framing, the subject looks away or alike. Then all shots from the scene will potentially have different exposures and you cannot do exposure batch editing ...

[@blakeparry1983]

Auto-ISO is supposed to be used without exposure compensation (e.g. relying on your metering setting and the camera) As a sports photographer I use it a lot, where players may be in shade, or facing sun one moment and away the next, or cloud cover.

[@alansach8437]

Auto anything sometimes requires exposure compensation. What if your subject moves in front of a bright background and you don't want a silhouette? You need to compensate. Otherwise you may just as well shoot "P" for perfect!

[@blakeparry1983]

@@alansach8437 spot metering will ensure the subject is not a sillouette, hence my mention of the correct metering setting

[@alansach8437]

@@blakeparry1983 Makes sense if your subject is middle gray, but if you are spotting on a black bear and relying 100% on the camera meter, the bear will be consistently overexposed. If you are spotting on a polar bear it will be underexposed. One way or another you are compensating, whether you are adjusting from the "recommended " settings in manual mode or you are turning a compensation dial in aperture or shutter priority. In fact, shooting manual is by definition compensating. You are using your judgment and adjusting (compensating) from the meter recommendations to achieve the results you want. Anytime you aren't shooting exactly what the meter says you are compensating. Of course, shooting people in sports may require less compensation that shooting black bears and polar bear, which are extreme examples.

[@blakeparry1983]

@@alansach8437 yes hence why i said using the correct metering mode for the situation is key to the usage of auto-iso

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for sharing!

[@emilymichellephotography4960]

“Way underexposed” for you is how it shoot every single shot 😂 your normal exposure gives me anxiety. So crazy how different different photographers shoot.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for sharing Emily!

[@sydneychristensen2386]

The r6 doesn’t work underexposed. DSLRs work great underexposed.

[@emilymichellephotography4960]

@@sydneychristensen2386 what 😂😂 you should look at my Instagram. My R6 works fine underexposed.

[@WEDDINGSBYDARRENDDMP]

Thanks for the video. I'm however a bit confused and would love some clarity. You stated that you will not be using auto iso because it would require too much additional steps to correct the exposure, however you will be using I asume aperture priority mode where the shutter speed will adjust it self for exposure. But I believe and feel free to correct me where i'm wrong, that you will have the same exposure issues you had while using spot metering, where you will still be required to make the extra steps to compensate for the adjustments that the camera will be making for you. So I'm confused as to how is one better than the other?

[@KatelynJames]

I shoot totally manually and it’s like second nature to me! Learning new settings isn’t necessary! So setting minimum shutter speed it a great fix!

[@AdrianBacon]

interesting. So if you're all manual, how are you determining "correct exposure"? Using the meter in the viewfinder? I'm one of those that suggested auto iso and exposure compensation. Yes, it can be unsettling at first, but if you have the controls set up for that and use exposure simulation and evaluative metering it's actually very consistent. Part of of what it looked like watching the video was you were cranking too hard on the controls. Remember, with evaluative metering, it will set an ISO that fits as much of the tonal scale in the picture into the middle of the histogram and if you have face detect/Eye AF enabled, it prioritizes correct exposure for the detected face/eyes. It knows where the faces and skin tones are in the picture and will set the exposure to give the best face and skin tones if you let it. Canon's metering is very accurate and you will rarely need to adjust more than a stop, which is only 3 clicks in either direction, and more often than not, it's one or two clicks. It's less of a "crank that thing" and more of a "finesse it up and down a click at a time". Of course, this is coming from a fellow R6 user who does this all the time. You're not really giving up that control, you're guiding it, but being able to effectively do that means that you have to have the camera set up so that you can actually use the controls to your advantage. If you want to directly control every single aspect, this will be difficult to do as you surmised, but if you let the camera find and focus on the faces/eyes and set ISO for the best skin tones then finesse that up and down and have the physical controls set to intuitively do that, it very quickly turns into a fluid shooting machine with a very high hit rate. Alternatively, if you prefer not to give that control up, you can just set your ISO 1 to 2 stops higher than what you'd normally shoot for a given light level to give yourself more shutter speed buffer. The R6 is basically a mirrorless 1DXIII (minus the 1DX video features) and has industry leading high ISO performance, so while the mantra usually is "shoot as low of an ISO as possible", the with the R6, you can really crank it up way higher than you'd think.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@arsenemonfort3504]

why do you recompose? you can compose en put the af pount where it has to be. that is easy with the R6

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@cooloox]

If someone recommends aperture priority with auto ISO, make sure you go into Settings and set a minimum shutter speed! Aperture priority gives you control of the aperture and the camera takes care of the shutter speed and ISO (because you set auto ISO), so you've really lost a lot of control. The camera could choose a lower than desired shutter speed, or a higher than needed shutter speed and hence a higher than needed ISO. With the exposure simulation and histogram, I can't see any reason not to shoot full manual, it's actually the easiest way to expose on a mirrorless camera. The exception being sports or situations where the subject is constantly coming in and out of shade into direct light. It's impossible to manually keep up with exposure changes in those circumstances.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!