The Solution to All My R6 Issues?!

A few weeks ago I posted a video about a common issue I've been experiencing with my R6 where my shutter speed accidentally dips too low. Well I got HUNDREDS of comments with suggestions and the most popular one by far was to switch to Auto ISO. Well, in my 13 years of shooting I've never shot with Auto anything, so I decided to give it a try to see if this is the solution to all my issues!
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[@PhilThach]

Auto-ISO is great for outdoor sports where the light is constantly changing and there is no time to adjust your shutter speed like you normally do. This is also true for wildlife. I do this and have my control ring set to exposure compensation. I think yours is set to K. For your type of work, setting a minimum shutter speed to protect yourself is a much better idea. I like that you are a $10,000 wedding photographer but you are still willing and able to learn things. Bravo!

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for sharing Phil!

[@zmzegare]

100% agree that it works well with Sport and wildlife photography when speed is the key and you don't have time to adjust for exposure.

[@badongtagalog5737]

Its also important in weedings where you need to act fast in a dimly lit situation. The less fidling you do the more moments you get.

[@capture_the_stoke9646]

I’m a fan of manual mode with auto iso, then using the control ring you can control iso if you don’t want to use exposure comp. Been working a treat for me

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@alansach8437]

FLV mode on the r6 lets you set what you want when you want or go 100% manual as conditions warrant. All without changing modes. It has been a game changer for me.

[@maggiecollinsphotography195]

LOVEEEEEEEEEE This! I just set mine to 250! THANKS sweetheart!

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks Maggie!!

[@michaelmcdonald3345]

If I'm on a tripod (and stable) I set the ISO. If I'm hand held and moving around, I set the ISO to Auto. Aperture and shutter speed I set. Works for me. Like your videos.

[@ryansalasphotography]

so this is what i do on my canon rp. i'm using manual and set the lowest shutter speed to 1/125 and change it manually if my subject is moving really fast. for aperture i set it to 1.8 most of the time cause that's how i like it and i'm always using auto iso and set the max range of 6400. the reason for that is 6400 iso is the highest usable iso for my taste, you can go higher if your camera handles it very well or just don't care of the noise. note that i'm using Variable ND Filter during the day so i don't crank up my shutter speed every time especially if i want to capture a motion. also i'm using Servo AF instead of One Shot AF. hope this simple settings helps for beginners. Happy Shooting

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@jakudahsymba5453]

I’m a Freestyle (nature, wildlife, landscape, street, portrait, sports photographer) on the civilian side and also a photographer for the military, (portraits, live action, combatives, aircraft etc.) If you know how to use your camera and understand the histogram and or light meter, there’s no point in shooting auto anything.. Learn your equipment and practice.. Also using back button focus is the way to go imo.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for sharing!

[@rachelcushingweddingvideog6]

You mentioned that you don’t focus and recompose. How do you focus? It’s one thing that I feel I can’t trust my camera to do so am constantly tapping the screen but it’s slow and I miss shots or some are unfocused

[@KatelynJames]

I move my focal point!

[@daquiksta]

More an user issue than camera. Set auto iso with range limitation to avoid not usable iso. And please switch to Servo and Eye AF for portraiture. Then 99% of shots would be fine.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@EmilyMagers22]

do you notice your ISO showing more grain in lower light? i thought my r6 would be better in low light than my mkiv but i'm not impressed

[@Mrbr00ks74]

I'm not understanding the need to focus and recompose. I use the thumbstick to adjust the focus point when I need to override Servo with eye autofocus.

[@KatelynJames]

It is because of the screen being used to record my screen. Thanks for watching!

[@Mrbr00ks74]

@@KatelynJames you can use the thumbstick to manually move the focus point. It is not enabled by default. Enabling this feature gives another option.

[@actionimagesphotography]

I've never seen someone make something so hard that is so easy. Choose your exposure to what you want, put Auto iso on, set the camera to follow her eyes. done.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@neostephens8980]

She's a "pro" and not going take criticism lightly.

[@alvinblackwell268]

Totally agree 👍🏽

[@KatelynJames]

@@neostephens8980 🤣 I can handle a little KZbin comment. It’s true. This should be simple. I’ve just never used it before and I don’t prefer it. I make enough money to support a team of 7 full time employees being a “pro” for 13 years now so I’ll just keep doing my thing and ya’ll can keep doing what is working so well for you! 👍🏻🤪 I appreciate all this time you guys dedicate to my channel 😉

[@KatelynJames]

Not sure where you saw this labeled at “tutorial”? Also not sure what type of people you help on here but some people do more than tutorials, they show up and authentically show their process of trying something new. If I was a pro at this setting, I would have claimed it. You are claiming that for me because it makes you right about your opinion of me. That’s fine. I’m probably not your person on KZbin… but ironically… I get so much of your time. 🤣 thank you!

[@ritchiewiii]

I've been full time for 15 years and I teach photography workshops and teach how to shoot manual. But what I use for portrait sessions 100% of the time when I'm not using flash is Aperture priority, Auto ISO, evaluative metering, eye autofocus. With the R6, that simply means... one finger on aperture, thumb on the wheel for exposure compensation with exposure sim through the viewfinder and that's it. My clients see every shot SOOC that I take and the exposure and focus is correct on 99.9% of them every time. And that's with 3rd party EF mount lenses.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@cooloox]

That's no different to shooting full manual and changing ISO manually! Riding the exposure compensation dial or riding the ISO dial. However, unless you lock in a min shutter speed in Settings, you risk exposure compensation bringing the shutter speed down too low. I never shoot auto anything.

[@ritchiewiii]

@@cooloox But your camera assumes you are shooting hand held and knows what lens you are using and your level of zoom for each shot so it will raise the aperture before lowering the shutter speed. Those Canon cameras are pretty dang smart. For example, if I'm using 70-200 at 200mm, it's going to raise the ISO before dropping the shutter below 1/200th. Alternatively, it will allow a slower shutter speed if I'm using my 35mm prime.

[@maggnet4829]

​@@ritchiewiiiReally depends on what you are photographing. Works with mostly static subjects, but not when there is plenty of movement.

[@AshlynManghane]

I’ve watched both videos and none of these issues are R6 problems. If you’re shooting manual, as you’ve stated, you’re the one physically changing the shutter speed. If you’re not aware of what your settings are throughout your session, respectfully, it’s a user error. The best thing to teach is shooting with purpose. To slow down and being more intentional. As someone who has also been shooting 13 years, teaches / trains other photographers, and owns a Canon r6, I don’t have any of these problems. I love all of your other videos and I usually don’t comment. I just don’t want these videos to deter anyone from purchasing the Canon R6, because it’s an incredible camera. This is said out of love, not judgement. So please don’t think I’m being negative. That’s not my intention.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for sharing!

[@WesleyDropDead]

Agree. How after 13 years does someone not pay attention to what settings they are on? The way it was worded made it seem like the r6 had an issue which is what made me interested in watching it. But I guess that’s the nature of KZbin titles these days.

[@eschrad]

@@WesleyDropDead It’s probably not the best title… it’s more of a mirrorless vs DSLR shooting “problem”. She explained it in the previous video. Basically, in taking advantage of the feature of mirrorless cameras where you see your exposure before you shoot, she was “blindly” changing her shutter speed until her exposure looked good in the viewfinder and kind of forgot to keep an eye on what the actual shutter speed setting was. That was something she was more conscious of when making her exposure adjustments on her DSLR and would then adjust ISO simultaneously to keep her shutter speed high enough. But she got out of her normal exposure adjustment mechanics when she started shooting with her R6. Instead of pulling the camera away from her eye to change her settings, now she was just quickly spinning the shutter dial while looking through the viewfinder and paying attention only to the image levels and not the information readout. So if she can use a guardrail in camera to keep her from accidentally dropping below 1/125 or 1/250, that probably is her best solution. As for making auto ISO and exp. comp. work… I’m not sure why she was being held to focus and recompose, instead of moving her focus point or using facial/eye detection AF. Maybe it had something to do with her recorder… I don’t know. But I can see how that was throwing her off. Every time she recomposed, it changed what her spot meter was reading. It’s probably because she is a back button focuser, so when she recomposed and then went to hit her shutter, it took the meter reading again. She would need to disable AE on the shutter button.

[@thomasnordstrom1869]

@@eschrad spot on

[@davidpruitt3255]

@@eschrad 100% with you about her blindly changing shutter speed. But wedding days are stressful so I can see it happening by going too fast. As for the focus and recompose, she mentioned in the video that using the recorder for the viewfinder footage it disables her screen (limitation with Canon's) so instead of tapping on the screen as usual, she had to focus and recompose. She doesn't normally do this and mentioned it was an adjustment for her in the video. Personally I would have preferred they not use the viewfinder recording as it hampered the point they were trying to make so much.

[@JohnArmwood]

Why do you unnaturally overexpose your portraits? They don’t look natural to me.

[@KatelynJames]

They don’t look natural to any middle aged man following a modern natural light photographer’s work who is in her 30’s and shoots more wide open than their preference. There are a ton of other channel options for you out there. 😉

[@mrfightgreg]

Katelyn, the problem is you didn't go full auto. Does the R6 have the incredible FV mode? It's a game changer. The way I set up my EOS R was so that everything I want to shoot in auto, is in auto by default in FV mode. Then as soon as you change iso, shutter, aperture they stay locked in, but everything else is full auto. I use the lens control ring to change exposure (this is key*) and eye/face AF. The last thing I do is set the FV reset so that little useless tiny button on top resets everything back to full auto FV. You can still set your minimum shutter, I'm telling you the engineers that thought up this FV mode are brilliant and most dinosaurs don't use it. Just like wanting the joystick back haha. Who uses a joystick when your thumb can literally drag focus in a split second to anywhere in your viewfinder??? The multi function touch bar was actually a step forward and much more valuable than a joystick but everybody complained and now we get the uselss joystick back haha. It's absurd, embrace innovation people!

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@amitabhmohanty5432]

Why would you not move the focal point instead of decomposing? That would solve the problem of exposure shifting.

[@parmanduke]

Haha. 90% of the time I shoot auto ISO. 99% hit rate with my R6 with any lens EF or RF

[@KatelynJames]

Haha. Glad to hear it works for you!

[@CaptainJack63]

I’ve been hitting 99% with auto iso too! I’m learning to trust what the camera is doing yet I keep an eye 👁 on it just in case it goes crazy. I’ve only seen it happened once.

[@SoJesusChristMusic]

Every since I was told ISO adds noise I try to keep it as low as possible…but recently on my R I found out that I can go up to 6400 without the image looking unusable…So what I did is went into my settings and made it where my camera will not even allow me to go any higher than 6400 in any mode. Though I try to stay around 400-800 and 100-400 goal…I know that I can go up to 6400 if needed without totally destroying the image…but if I’m in the 400-800 range I’m happy

[@erikkuypers7629]

Hi Katelyn, I followed a lot of your courses, basically because: 1. You own the same camera, 2. You’re creative approach, 3. Your editing skills and high-end delivery, 4. Your preset and black and white proces, 5. Learning how to pose people, 6. Learning about secondary light and consistency and of course your personality! But, technically 🙈. Still love you ❤️

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@michaeloconnor3580]

I use auto ISO often to shoot dance in a theater setting, the light is shifting all over the place and I use the lowest shutter speed that freezes the motion enough usually 160 or 200th a wide aperture to let in as much light as possible, widest for solos and more depth for groups. Auto ISO follows the ever changing lighting when the shutter and aperture are essentially slammed to the limit due to the low light with dance in motion. Exposure compensation also becomes necessary for spotlights and backlights, that is what I have track and move around during the performance.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@pawellesniakcrx]

Aperture priority, autoiso from 100-25600, shutter min. speed at 1/250 - alle problems solved ;) working like that from 3 years. You just seting aperture and using exposition wheel to make picture "brighter or darker" . thats it.. works perfectly

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for sharing!

[@nickellejohnson4950]

That last one was a great suggestion! I changed mine right away! Because literally the next session I did AFTER I watched your video about the low shutter speed I did the same thing!! This will make me feel much safer!

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for sharing Nickelle!

[@wastedtalentusa]

I understand that using a camera in complete auto is not really professional. But, to let the camera pick the iso, now that it doesn't compromise image quality, it is not a matter of letting the camera thinking for you. It doesn't make any photographer less or more professional or in control of their work. I know that you didn't say that, but I know where it comes from: professionals shoot manual. Flash in manual. Camera in manual. Sometimes technology helps. The same thing was with focus (in the past). "I don't use auto focus at all". Now, we just select one focus point, and we let the camera do the rest. So, sometimes we need to get advantage of technology, and it doesn't make us less professional to the world.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching

[@arunashamal]

take a look at wedding photographers who charge 30-50k or world famous magnum photographers. Many of them just use P... professionals don't have time to fiddle with settings. Shooting Auto isn't professional is a conspiracy theory.

[@wastedtalentusa]

@@arunashamal sometimes you have to input your own settings to get the specific results you want, or to maintain the style, the look, your photography identify. But, if some 50K photographers shoot in P and it is working for them, that's fine too. Everyday, technology is letting people focus more in style, creativity, and less in how the camera works. We just need to get use to it. Some people will say it's not fair, but we can't fight it.

[@MarcS4R]

i have been shooting events with Auto ISO and Aperture Priority professionally for years. Minimum Shutter Speed set to 1/125 usually. Works great.

[@vitorvilar3446]

Best option..

[@erikkuypers7629]

Same here, the way to go as far as I’m concerned. Minimum shutter speed for portraits set to 1/250.

[@AngelDRodriguez]

Me too! Obviously depends on the camera how well this works but it works amazing for me!

[@astridtermaat3854]

Exactly! In this situation in bright sunlight is not the best example for auto ISO. I’m definitely saved a few times at weddings when I’m in the church and come outside, in bright sunlight.

[@ElBoyoElectronico]

After learning how to shot manual, I did exactly what you did. Works absolutely great!!

[@dustmicks1]

I think the r6 is so good even with high iso. That instead of changing the shutter speed, just raising the iso manually for more light

[@terrythorn301]

Right. Easy to do with R6. Good point.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@FerryKnijnFotografie]

Why still focus recompose??? just move te focus point or use face detection!

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@cooloox]

I didn't see your original video, but I don't get the issue? Shoot full manual and if you're at min shutter speed you're happy with, adjust ISO manually instead of shutter speed when you feel the shot looks underexposed. What's the difference between constantly changing exposure compensation and constantly changing ISO, manually? So stick to what you know (full manual) but change ISO and not shutter speed, when necessary, which is what you should be doing anyway. I hate auto anything and as soon as you choose auto ISO, the camera is deciding the exposure and you have to keep fighting it (with exposure compensation). As soon as the subject and/or background change in brightness 'in relation to one another' , the exposure compensation is immediately wrong and has to be changed.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@Manihsi]

Set minimum shutter speed and make sure not going below that ( unsafe zone) 👍🏼

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks!

[@alanjcravophotography4149]

I think was a long explanation before no much reason…. Set your aperture and then the desired shutter speed, and iso and exposure will be adjusted auto. Simples If you don’t like that, then keep manual.. simples

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@marcel9568]

What does the guy mean with the shutter as low as you can go? Low speed or short time? Mathematically 1/200 IS a HIGHER number than 1/1600. Please explain. This is confusing.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@Fidalgodev]

Insteaf of focus and recompose, couldnt' you just enable eye tracking and it would just grab her eye?

[@KatelynJames]

Great idea!

[@halfknott]

Another thing to try is to set the slowest shutter speed your camera will do to a 1/125 th, so it won't let you dial your shutter speed slower, so when you're adjusting things it'll stop at 1/125th and then you'll notice and then adjust ISO.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@khushallam1439]

Why didn't you use eye af? Would've made focusing alot easier

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@Kritischer_Geist]

My first Thought.

[@petergray6050]

Hi, I'm a bit of a newby at this--what is the piece of equipment on the top of your camera ?

[@KatelynJames]

It is an atmos ninja 5. It is just used here for educational purposes to show and record my screen.

[@SoJesusChristMusic]

I’ve never understood what exposure compensation is IN FULLY MANUAL MODE. I thought manual mode is so you adjust the exposure independently vs in one rookie setting. I’m confused 😂 I heard someone say ISO, Aperture, and Shutter is exposure…that’s why I’ve never understood exposure in Fully Manual Mode. What is Exposure Compensation doing exactly 🤔

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@Augnos]

Exposure compensation only works when there are automated parameters. When you shoot full manual, it doesn’t “compensate” anything, and adjusting it won’t change your exposure at all.

[@DanielGrovePhoto]

Not sure if you've covered it before but there's also a shutter speed limit setting so it won't go below a set value. Thanks for making great content for us all!

[@KatelynJames]

Glad it is helpful!

[@AustinRoss]

Why are you shooting in One Shot instead of Servo? Why are you not using the joystick to place the focus point (instead of the touch screen | enabled under C.Fn3)? Why are you not using head tracking (arguably the biggest strength of the R5/R6)? Change Initial Point for AF Tracking from Auto to either of the options (Page AF5 | Recommend following the other focus points) which gives you back control on where you want it to attach focus (like you were doing here), and then compose. Choose 0 on AF4 -- Switching Tracked Subjects if you need that locked on person to be extra sticky. Eye AF is great, but if you're shooting a group, ehhh. Lastly (and I don't really get why it's in a different spot) -- ISO Speed Settings on Shoot2 -- Change the Auto Range. You can limit what your ISO can climb to so it won't be wildly different. I get that you've been using a DLSR for the past X years, but don't be afraid to use the assists of the new. :) Thanks for the content and walk through!

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@richardcollinsphotography1288]

You would have been better of manually focusing for this instead of focus and recompose.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for sharing!

[@stevealexander7772]

Why shoot this in the middle of the day? If you want to demonstrate something, then wait tunnel the conditions allow for proper demonstration of that task (or just go inside). Auto ISO is a pretty simple concept but this video makes it feel more complicated than it actually is.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@stelaw6]

Such a bad test video,done totally wrong

[@terpinskipl]

Wrong again. Use autoiso in AV mode. Set safety shift to aparature in C.fn. to aviod overexposured on 1.2 on bright condition. Min shutter speed 1/250 for weddings and portrait should be fine ( 1/1000 for sport and wildlife) assign exposure compensansion to one control ring and aparature value to second one and you good to go. Manual mode is waste of time !!!

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@colingmaccoll]

You say that a cloud comes in and it goes darker so thi ISO will change to try and compensate but youd rather the whole set be dark to aid editing flow......but it's already gone from brighter to darker so you'll have brightwr images already in your workflow. I shoot sports, mainly cycling and running where im static for up to 4 hours banging off shots of people coming past me. I'd rather have iso auto than not so that i end up with somewhat ok ish images to start editing from rather than sitting for 4 hours with clouds, sun, partial cloud' harsh sun and having to manually change the iso each time a competitor comes past.

[@ryannolan1142]

Your motion blur may be coming from the fact you can't hold the camera steady

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@gamingwithstand6886]

Katelyn you should watch some videos by Joe Buissink he shoots Hollywood weddings and he shoots in P mode. You're kind of doing it wrong compared to Joe Buissink. Also Canon should have their cameras work like Olympus that after you take the photo it displays the image for 0.3 seconds so you can see if there is any issues. It saved me a few times from making mistakes.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks so much

[@Jvaldes609]

Are you just using the 24-70 F2 and the 85mm? A majority of the time.

[@KatelynJames]

Yes!

[@neostephens8980]

This video reminds me of the Northrup's (great photographers, but when they find a product they don't like, they try to make it seem as if the product is flawed or difficult to use). Seems like when people get popular on KZbin, they become the "bee's knees.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for sharing!

[@JohnMacLeanPhotography]

1:50 If you’re just shooting one person why not use Eye AF with tracking? Is that a recorder issue?

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@JaisonSampaio]

PROBLEM: I have a R61 , the ISO change to auto automatically, but all the photos get super exposed, I change the adapter, lens but nothing changes! I'm using the last firmware on canon website. someone can help me?

[@veograbo]

Thanks for the vid, but I feel you're vastly underestimating your camera. I've been shooting SLRs and large format since the mid 80s, so I know what you mean about control and shooting manual, but technology has changed! I feel it's like you're switching zoom lenses treating them as primes because you don't trust the zoom ring... I shot the R5 these days, which is pretty much the same as the R6 in these respects. I invite you to go out one day for fun and shoot Fv. Auto-ISO, and you can jump between auto shutter, auto aperture and both manual, but do hand over as much control to the camera as you can stand. Matrix metering and as little exposure compensation as possible (that last sort of invalidated your test). The deep learning algorithms on these bodies are amazing! The other thing you'll grow to love very rapidly is eye autofocus! No framing and re-composing. It will speed up and simplify your shoots enormously. When not working like that, use the dominant thumb's half of the back LCD to move the focus point around. It's fast and gratifying. These aren't your millennial cameras anymore. They're very capable of helping you out. You can just supervise and step in when you -- need -- to make an alteration. Have fun! I think you'll be very impressed. PS Holding down the set button in Fv resets everything to auto (on the R5 and R6, the trash button on the RP). You can then just select the parameter or parameters you want to control. Works on any creative mode. Oh, and are you on the latest firmware? Makes a diff.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for sharing!

[@kevinbatts2804]

These comments are spicy. I love the content. Stay out of the comment section. You seem to have riled up a bevy of "professional Photographers." I've been creating for clients for years and whatever works for you and your happy clients is the right answer.

[@kevinbatts2804]

Ban trolls you will never be able to convince them. You will only give yourself a headache.

[@KatelynJames]

Haha Welcome to my world Kevin!!

[@Augnos]

I’m sure it’s been mentioned, and this video is a year old at this point, but Evaluative Metering mode works with Whole Area AF, especially with metering for faces. Evaluative metering is a pretty smart metering mode, and will adjust your settings to meter for what you are focusing on. That said, I’ve never really been a fan of auto exposing while in single point AF, because the metering modes wouldn’t work well for me in the past. With the newer cameras, the auto exposure works insanely well, the caveat being that you are using Whole Area AF with Evaluative Metering.

[@anildangol]

The reason why your focus recompose chaging exposure may be because you have assigned the half press to metering? just my guess.

[@KatelynJames]

Good point!

[@ymmichael1]

Older Canon camera here - but I've been loving auto ISO in place of when I'd use Aperture Priority mode, rather than in place of when I'd use Manual. On the other hand - what Canon could add to help is *warn* below a minimum shutter speed, rather than *block* it. That would be a setting you could leave on all the time, and selectively ignore when necessary.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@klairmak6071]

I was thinking the same. Simple option, that would be the perfect solution for me... Hello, Canon, do you hear us ? ;-)

[@Lens10x]

I cannot shoot auto anything. I barely like my car being an automatic haha That auto iso made me want to break my own camera. lol

[@KatelynJames]

haha love that!

[@MrDucatiPenigaleV4s]

The best solution would be to buy a Nikon Z9.

[@KatelynJames]

Ha ha good one

[@paulfrye9295]

Just use evaluative metering, keep the camera in program mode for all natural light shots and touch up with exposure compensation as needed. I’ve been doing photography since 1972 when I became our yearbook photographer. All we had was manual then. You guys have it easy! Stop trying to make photography difficult!!!

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for sharing!

[@thesharpercoder]

Did you know that when you use ISO Auto in M mode that you can program the SET button for exposure compensation? The R6 has the Fv modes, which allow you to give the camera a different way of automatically only adjusting ISO.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for sharing!

[@pianokeys11]

I wouldn't shoot Auto ISO, I would just set the shutter speed where you want and just switch to changing ISO to adjust exposure instead of changing shutter speed to adjust exposure

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@hom296]

Hey Katelyn...Have you ever had an R6 stop working (shooting stills) on a really hot day? I took my R6 with me to a job photographing a home exterior, but it was close to 100 degrees in the evening. Camera died. Had to send it to Canon repair. Not repaired yet but they charged me mucho $$ just to look at it. Just curious if you have had that issue... Joe Homsy

[@nicktrieu8129]

Auto ISO is great but not sure why you made it look so complicated.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@Enigmaizerh]

Who uses auto ISO in such full blown sunny day? Come on

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@Tap-a-roo]

Auto ISO or manual ISO and auto shutter with a minimum. Duh.

[@KatelynJames]

Nothing like a friendly Duh! Thanks for watching!

[@SonnyBCreative]

auto-iso is great for shooting video for events, but you have to limit it or the camera will go to extremely high numbers in low light situations.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@kingweddingmedia]

Unless I’m using flash, I almost always use auto iso and exposure compensation to adjust accordingly. I find it to be a bit of a safety net and much faster to shoot in that I will likely never have a shot that’s too over/underexposed, and typically only have to adjust shutter and aperture for the effect I want, camera will sort iso.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for sharing!

[@thegroove2000]

I have also started to use auto iso but not to go over 800 on my lumix camera and also if in low light conditions and see noise I wack out topaz denoise as that does a sterling job of repairing.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@JuanLopezmusica]

what's the brand of the clear filter you have in your lens?

[@jlawr4427]

Use the R6 with the 28-70mm lens, set the shutter at 1/250, f2.0, and auto ISO. Shoot in the different lighting situations you would in a wedding and process the images. You will NEVER have a motion blur image. I doubt you will see any noise. Your life will be so much easier. Trust the camera, or buy the R5.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@jlawr4427]

@@KatelynJames I rewatched the video and noticed you don't seem to like auto ISO with spot metering. If you just meter only on your subject and use exposure compensation without recomposing, I think your "fear of lack of control" will abate. It doesn't seem like you're afraid of giving up focus control to the camera. Let go of manual shutter adjustment and switch to manual ex. comp. Be happy. If you set minimum shutter speed to 250, you'll STILL need to manually adjust ISO to get the correct exposure. Trust this fabulous auto ISO technology in this camera the way you trust auto-focusing. Again, learn to stay on your subject while adjusting ex. comp. Oh, and why not display the small histogram in the viewfinder so you'll know when you are in zone 4 or 5 Sorry, I just couldn't help myself trying to help you NOT need to be an "over-shooter." And congrats on the new coming baby.

[@robdtoys]

I really stay away from Auto ISO like the plague! I had my thumb wheel on the R5/R6 set to ISO and when the camera was at my side it would always get bumped to ISO. I fixed this by having my ISO now using the Set button and shutter dial. The thumb wheel is now reserved for Kelvin.I just like being in total control so I agree with everything you mentioned.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for sharing

[@arunashamal]

You can set it to lock exposure (not talking about using ae-l button) and lock focus with the half press/ back button. That is the problem you are facing. Your camera is only locking focus, not exposure. Therefore when you recompose, it recalculate exposure for where the focus point now rests. with that function enabled, it would work like a charm.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for sharing!

[@MrSalanter]

Thx!

[@ven1536]

​@KatelynJames I understand you tho I kinda miss the dslr system in which the control was fully in your hands I feel the same way with all these mirrorless cameras

[@Digi20]

It is okay to have different ways of working, we all do. And if Manual works better for you thats fine. But Auto-ISO definitely works much much better than shown here if used right. You made it looking very complicated by overthinking and overcompensating with the exposure compensation it seems. That is definitely not needed. Maybe a few thought for beginners/people who want to try: -set metering to evaluative, that way you avoid sudden brightness changes in challenging light conditions, and the camera also emphases the metering a bit more on the subject you are focusing onto, so you are always already in the right ballpark even without manipulating anything. -I also like to half press the shutter button and hold when i focus and recompose to lock the metering that way. no need to make it complicated and use another button on top. Working that way, the only thing you need to do is look through the viewfinder/display, compose your shot, decide if the brightness suits what you want to archive (if not simply turn the exposure comp dial) and shoot. that its. There is NO need to (over)use the exposure compensation dial for every picture, and no need to even think about or look at your iso value or shutter speed. the whole series will have the same exposure regardless if clouds moved in front of the sun or not. that is the whole reason to use auto-iso in first place. to not having to constantly change or worrying about a value while shooting. this also makes batch editing much easier and faster because the exposure stays closely the same throughout the series without doing anything. i think i have shot several hour long sessions if not whole weddings by only using a single button (the shutter) and the AF-joystick this way :) but i think it took several month if not years to move away from Manual to this style of shooting. its nothing you will re-learn within one try if you have done it for different for 13 years.

[@Digi20]

i also want to add one thing i realized while writing this: in conjunction with auto-iso i often use the exposure lock by half pressing the shutter button to adjust the exposure to my liking. an example: wedding ceremony in church. i want to take a picture with bride and groom below a sunlit colorful window. i want to expose for the window and not the couple (to have a darker, more dramatic silhoutte style of them). instead of fiddling with controls to archive this, i simply point the camera with its set focus point up to the window. the camera exposes more for the window, the image gets darker. i half press the shutter. the exposure is locked that way. i move the camera back down a bit for my final composition and take the picture. done. took half a second without even thinking about it and i didnt need to adjust one thing. i do this very often for reportage style shooting. isnt if great how different we all work with the same tool to archive the desired results? :)

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for sharing!

[@THSimagery]

Off the bat, auto iso fixed those blown out highlights. We can always brighten, we cannot recover blown highlights

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@Martin-h1x3g]

I think 5D Mark II do not have that setting but it is another way around, I will try to shoot on shutter speed priority of 250 or above. But after all I see in your video, I understand I need to feel comfortable shooting in MANUAL !!! controlling everything as I should do :) Thanks!!

[@angelogarciajr5356]

Auto ISO never works for me. It messes up way more photos that way. I have tried it shooting softball. Batter is in the shade, fielders in bright sun. Going from batter to fielders is impossible. So I tried auto ISO to solve this and it was no help for me. Now I take the batter, if the ball is hit, I turn the shutter down 3 stops as fast as I can. Forget auto ISO.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@kriswysong6038]

I tend to shoot in auto iso mode unless I’m in a low light situation and purposely don’t want the higher iso settings because of noise in the image. I think the bigger issue though is slow shutter speeds creating motion blur. Most of the time Lightroom saves my butt on an underexposed or overexposed image whereas it can’t really do much with a blurry image. Love my r6 though, good advice!

[@Garbid]

I use a6600 and auto iso is set for 6400 max. Sure r6 also has that option.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks!

[@StevenCress]

I'm also a Sony shooter, and I set a number on the control dial to be Aperture priority with auto iso and minimum shutter speed. I set my maximum iso and set my minimum shutter speed to a custom button on the camera, so I can quickly change it for different scenarios. Mark Galer, a Sony ambassador, has a very informative video about this. This is the only way I shoot, and honestly, it's so good, it seems like there's not much point in shooting manual. I'd miss so many shots. Maybe this feature didn't work as well on older cameras?

[@TherconJair]

Just one thing to mention here: if you shoot lower ISO and keep the image purposefully darker, then increase exposure in post it will have more noise than the same photo exposed to the same final brightness in camera with higher ISO. I'd post my test pictures here where I tried this out because I once thought keeping ISO lower and increasing exposure in post was better than the other way around, but links in comments probably get flagged. I can just say: boy was I wrong.

[@arunashamal]

A grainy image is always better than a blurry image

[@susheeltm]

If you are on full manual, why do you have to set the shutter speed range?

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@1NATURELOVERJ]

I am having issues with my EOS R and using Godox flashes. It sometimes switches to AUTO ISO. Most of my wedding ceremonies are on the beach and couple's portraits are against a beautiful sunset. The AUTO ISO makes it impossible to get properly exposed couples in the foreground and a little darker sunset background. AUTO ISO takes away most of the creativity.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@brianasealy6257]

I truly love seeing you shoot through the camera like this! I think we could all learn from more videos like this! Just hands on watching you work through things and your flow, love it!

[@toofy7253]

I use auto iso in video RAW or 10 bit pro res HQ 422 so that I can adjust easy in post. I look at the waveform and adjust to whatever value I want. My brain is too slow to not do auto iso in fast situations

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@luisrodrigues4415]

Your problem seems to me to have a lot to do with the exposure metering modes. Modern cameras produce a sensitive effect that affects the photometer reading. I also noticed that you tend to focus and then recompose, which seems unnecessary since you can use face detection and compose without worrying about the autofocus, as the system keeps the person's face detectable, this prevents that when there is recomposition the exposure changes suddenly

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@luisrodrigues4415]

@@KatelynJames this is true??

[@kenjiyamamoto423]

It's weird R6 + RF 85 you don't need to compose recomposed,.

[@ryansalasphotography]

i think she's been used to do it with the old dslrs.

[@KatelynJames]

It was because of the device attached to record my camera screen. Thanks for watching!

[@Starriddin]

You should really use a combination of minimum shutter speed AND set the auto ISO RANGE. If the parameters exceed these settings, you would not have gotten the shot you wanted anyway. It really is set and forget unless you have a really broad range of auto ISO settings and it would not be very different settings in your editing workflow. I used this recently at an airshow with some parts of the sky clear blue and others bright white with sunlit clouds, shooting jets crossing that background at 400+MPH. I got nearly all keepers and not difficult to edit in post. I do wish Canon would tie the spot meter point to the focusing point on the mirrorless cameras. I think the workflow most people were describing was based on evaluative metering because of this. Trust your new cameras' technology. It's there to help, LoL!

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@kbardin08]

This should be higher up. Nice explanation!

[@kbardin08]

Make the camera and it’s brains of today work for you, not against you

[@SonOfTheBlueSky]

I use iso auto 15 years and never have issues like you have. You have to set up camera right way, (min and max iso auto, etc).

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@thesharpercoder]

When using digital cameras with high AF point counts, instead of focusing and recomposing, you can meter and recompose focus. When using Spot Metering is they R6 only metering at the circle in the center of the view? When you use Evaluative Metering, then camera meters the scene at locked AF point. Digital cameras allow for completely different shooting techniques compared to film. Zone AF modes are more reliable than you might realize. It allows the camera to focus and meter with any active AF point.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@Pablo-Ramirez]

Hello, I hope you are well. I am not an expert but I can recommend you to continue in manual and use the eye tracking that the camera has to frame your photo, you do not need to reframe, just use eye tracking and so you only worry about framing your photo as you want. Greetings.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@Pablo-Ramirez]

@@KatelynJames Hi how are you? I received a notification that I was the winner of a prize, this is true. Please your help, thank you.

[@elizabethreifsnyder529]

It’s the funniest thing, I was listening and understanding everything you were saying. Then as soon as Ty comes on, it’s like, he started speaking Russian and I had to *FOCUS* to get what he was saying. I just learn so much better from other women!!!

[@KatelynJames]

Ha ha he has that effect

[@AdrianBacon]

interesting. So if you're all manual, how are you determining "correct exposure"? Using the meter in the viewfinder? I'm one of those that suggested auto iso and exposure compensation. Yes, it can be unsettling at first, but if you have the controls set up for that and use exposure simulation and evaluative metering it's actually very consistent. Part of of what it looked like watching the video was you were cranking too hard on the controls. Remember, with evaluative metering, it will set an ISO that fits as much of the tonal scale in the picture into the middle of the histogram and if you have face detect/Eye AF enabled, it prioritizes correct exposure for the detected face/eyes. It knows where the faces and skin tones are in the picture and will set the exposure to give the best face and skin tones if you let it. Canon's metering is very accurate and you will rarely need to adjust more than a stop, which is only 3 clicks in either direction, and more often than not, it's one or two clicks. It's less of a "crank that thing" and more of a "finesse it up and down a click at a time". Of course, this is coming from a fellow R6 user who does this all the time. You're not really giving up that control, you're guiding it, but being able to effectively do that means that you have to have the camera set up so that you can actually use the controls to your advantage. If you want to directly control every single aspect, this will be difficult to do as you surmised, but if you let the camera find and focus on the faces/eyes and set ISO for the best skin tones then finesse that up and down and have the physical controls set to intuitively do that, it very quickly turns into a fluid shooting machine with a very high hit rate. Alternatively, if you prefer not to give that control up, you can just set your ISO 1 to 2 stops higher than what you'd normally shoot for a given light level to give yourself more shutter speed buffer. The R6 is basically a mirrorless 1DXIII (minus the 1DX video features) and has industry leading high ISO performance, so while the mantra usually is "shoot as low of an ISO as possible", the with the R6, you can really crank it up way higher than you'd think.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@evanmariam4795]

Please help me please I got my r6 And I don’t love it and feel lost Some pics are not sharp some soft And the shutter can’t make over 200 like my old camera

[@lguthrie2067]

What is the setup with your flash? what is that?

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@speakingconstitution]

Yes, for all those reasons I purposely do not use auto iso, ever. Ow about that shutter speed setting … I probably should be making better use of that feature.

[@dubbleA100]

I might put that max shutter on when I'm doin photos with on camera flash ☝🏿

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@TesLatino]

There is no right or wrong way to use the camera (except for obviously bad or incorrect settings). If you like full manual, that's you. If you're ok with letting the camera make some decisions for you, then by all means. Don't care about anyone criticizing you for not using auto ISO. Manual gives you the unique chance to plant your style no questions asked. Auto is great, but it's not 100% you., and that's ok. You rock, Katelyn!

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks so much! Just trying to show we are open to try new things! Thanks for watching!

[@broinsocali]

Why are you moving away from your subject when you take the shot?

[@mariocassar6087]

Good morning from Sunny Malta. Love your posts….so fresh.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for listening

[@esphilee]

I think Canon should have the camera making artificial sound of shutter opening and closing. It is a useful feature.

[@KatelynJames]

For real!

[@terrythorn301]

Place your focus on the back button and your exposure lock on the shutter button. Focus with AF-On, half press shutter, and recompose. Becomes second nature.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@bigchief1658]

what 4K HDMI Monitor and bracket are you using

[@cooloox]

In reality, you should be using flash, so as not to burn out the background (which looks cheap and amateurish). However, there is one other option noone ever seems to talk about, turning on HDR PQ. If you shoot raw+JPEG you get HDR raw files plus HEIF files. If you just shoot raw you get HDR raw files. The dynamic range is amazing and let's you capture the bright sky and your subject, when the sun is behind your subject. This is not the same as normal HDR shots where the camera takes multiple shots. The camera only takes one shot and applies a very flat codec to it.

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@DrunkferretKG]

It's not as spazzy as she makes it out to be. She's like the people who refuse to shoot mirrorless. For most of us using the camera this way cuts down on the amount of post you put into your work. On the rf glass I use the control ring for exposure compensation. Most of the time it only needs to be 1/3 to 2/3 in either direction.

[@KatelynJames]

Regardless, the ISO can/will change from shot to shot which would slow me down while editing. I was using the control ring on my lens for exposure compensation as well! If it works for you, great!

[@broomstreettd]

@@KatelynJames In what way does changing ISO slow your editing? Why does changing shutter speed not slow it?

[@DrunkferretKG]

@@broomstreettd when she changes shutter speed she also has to change either iso or aperture to to find her preferred exposure. After doing it one way for so long she knows what looks right to her, and that allows her to set a base line for post processing in batches. Even if she doesn't run batch processing it means she spends less time tweaking after applying a preset, and maybe just rolling with the preset. We all find our method. I do run in manual w/auto iso. However, I do miss the link between AF point and auto exposure the EOS R has. I too have an R6 and it uses the traditional metering modes. I will most likely try testing the custom function of locking AE after focus lock. Maybe canon will put the AF point to AE link back in another camera.

[@arthur3038]

after all this years with my DSLR's i do actually hear/heard - even in demanding situations - when the shutter speed is/was getting to 'slow' for the lens and subject.. with system cams (and especially when on full electronic) the danger to have the shutter speed in a area that is to slow taught me to secure the Speed with the tools those modern cams offer... i must admit i share Katelyn's way of (non-)trusting automatism's to much.. especially in High Quality photography...

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@OMalleyKing]

Have you tried the setting in the camera where you can lock it to not go lower then a certain shutter speed? Not sure if that was in your last video or not. I lock mine to not go lower than what I’m comfortable with and then just turn that off when I need to go lower for reception dancing or something like that

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@mjrinfl]

Auto iso is just lazy. Aperture priority is also lazy. Just know how to expose properly and you'll be fine

[@KatelynJames]

Thanks for watching!

[@alansach8437]

Except you aren't shooting film. You are doing digital capture. Knowing how to expose is great. Everyone should know that. But when you are shooting fast action in rapidly changing conditions, first in the shade, then in the sun, then a cloud comes over, you are going to miss a lot of shots playing around with shutter speed and aperture! Autofocus is just plain lazy too! Why not just manually focus, pull out an exposure meter, take a reading and shoot?? Because it takes time! Why spend all the money for modern technology and then toss it all in the s can? There's a time and place for manual exposure, and manual focus for that matter. While shooting landscapes I often take multiple spot meter readings and carefully calculate what highlights I want to emphasize, what shadows are important and which can fall where they may. But shooting sports or wildlife is different. Exposure calculations are the last thing I have time for! The action is often unpredictable and fast. In the light, out of the light, bright background, dark background!! Modern cameras make it possible to get shots that were impossible in the past.

[@mjrinfl]

@@alansach8437 if you know your camera and property know how to expose... it's not "playing around" or playing with your camera. It's the simple turn of a dial. You just have to be smart enough to know when your exposure changes. Again, lazy.