The Story of John Waterman: Alaska's Most Troubled Mountaineer

[@joshuabradshaw9120]

Having mentally ill relatives it breaks my heart to hear these kinds of stories. Some people just never find peace in life due to the mental issues they struggle with.

[@hokey9175]

More than other channels, you show respect to the climbers and the tragedies that happen. Thank you for doing so

[@lady8308]

thank you for the hotline and silence for these two gentlemen. may they find rest and great mountains beyond.

[@lizc6393]

This was beautifully parsed, thank you. Though I don't push my beliefs on others, I am religious and believe in a world beyond, and I hope they are happy there.

[@chrisakaschulbus4903]

Although it's pointless since you could have hours of silence outside the video by yourself ;) It's not like we all watch the video a the same time. Isn't that the point of a moment of silence? Meaning it's a shared moment?

[@coryjohnson2486]

I’m not saying that I agree with what John did, but I DEFINITELY understand his struggles of dealing with feeling worthless and hating himself. I fight with it every single day. That was very kind of you to post the suicide prevention hotline at the end man.

[@vanabondmoto]

I laughed at that slide as I’m sore John would’ve. I unfortunately survived my attempt. Bringing “suicide prevention” into it only would have drawn out that period. When a soul decides it is done with the human experience, nothing can stop it from making a change.

[@coryjohnson2486]

@@vanabondmoto I respectfully disagree with that last statement. That MIGHT be true in some peoples’ cases, but suicide is WAY too complicated of a subject to come to that conclusion and call it fact.

[@Luckser74]

Sometimes a man’s worst enemy is himself

[@Heart2HeartBooks]

Not sometimes, but always.

[@no_peace]

I'm autistic... The enemy is other people. It literally doesn't matter how good you are

[@lukycharms9970]

I don’t understand how not a single one of his college friends mentioned that maybe justtt maybeeeee that his cape, sunglasses, and taped up guitar while petitioning for sexual freedom and drug use was actually the cause of his limited success with women and was probably not due at all to his teenage fixation on mountain climbing….. how did no one mention this to him…?? Those are some awful friends.

[@VitoDRF]

@no peace same. And I agree. Humans are way overrated.

[@smittysmeee]

​@@lukycharms9970 Some very likely did mention it to him, and then were promptly cut out of his life for not understanding him. Mental illness is a hell of a thing.

[@highwayexit]

I’m really stoked on these smaller mountain climbing stories you’re doing. I’ve read a lot on the bigger ones like Everest 96, so im super appreciative. Subscribed.

[@grapeshot]

Yeah that can definitely be a problem when you get into the addiction of trying to one-up yourself.

[@ethanreynolds4942]

This is the first time I almost cried from one of these stories. Rest in peace john. Its ok buddy. You did it. You finally found happiness. You conquered mountains and did things people only dream of.

[@IrishDougal]

As a keen mountaineer and someone who enjoys the history of it I’d never heard of John Waterman, I’d just like to say thanks for providing a well presented and factual account of these very sad events. Your ability to make an engaging and informative video is impressive and I thoroughly appreciate it!!

[@darkmiragesr5]

Mountain climbing and cave diving, two things that when you mess up, you wont walk away, usually.

[@liberteus]

Thank you so much for telling that story, with incredible tact, highlighting the progressive degradation of mental health across the years of both son and father.

[@johnryan8533]

I climbed a few times with Guy Waterman and his younger son in the Schawangunks, in 1970.

[@juliam7056]

That was the most heartbreaking story. No words ...

[@bearursidae42069]

I didn't expect the end to be so poignantly striking, bless you for what you do and the recognition you bring to these fine young men and women, intrepid explorers until the very end. Truly amazing the capacity of the human spirit

[@leo8049]

I grew up spending my summers in Talkeetna as a kid. My Grandparents have a cabin about 20 miles from there. I've never heard this story before, and hearing it makes me wonder if either of my grandparents knew John. They've been living up there since the early 70's and are extremely outgoing (they'll talk to anyone for hours, regardless of status or topics) so it's definitely possibly!

[@micadean1600]

That would be neat.

[@mec8690]

I recall well first reading about this in 'High Alaska' when it was published in 1991, written ironically by author and Alaska adventurer Jonathan Waterman. You might also be interested in the story of Ned Gillette's death, another unique visionary and accomplished mountaineer / adventurer who died under bizarre circumstances in the Karakoram in 1998.

[@comptonoverland7442]

@@namelastname2449 Breaking point is a amazing book by Glen Randall and a John Krakauer book has info on John Waterman. Both books talk alot about John Watermans climbs and about him.

[@tonyarichards5430]

The extent of my climbing experience is in and out of my bed. And it shall stay that way.

[@cynthiaropoli]

I don’t even like the top bunk!

[@brucegwynn8509]

@@cynthiaropoli agreed!!

[@sabrinatscha2554]

Up and down my basement steps

[@AirForceChmtrails]

Amen!

[@low-keyrighteous9575]

Couldn't agree more .. I'll stick to my bed , thank you

[@meta4058]

thanks for putting the hotline up there at the end. it's truly tragic how talented people can slip through the cracks of society and fall into a spiral of depression that no one saves them from. your videos are great, you always tell these stories with such empathy and make sure to humanize the people in them, rather than judging them for making "stupid" decisions or overly dramatizing the tragic events that took their lives. keep up the good work, you may be a smaller channel but you're already one of my favourite mountaineering/disaster channels on this website!

[@judd0112]

Especially at the time when this took place. 60’s 70’s 80’s. Lots of things went unnoticed, or undiagnosed. Child abductions were not even given significant news coverage or seriousness. Most are just runaways right? The famous line from police. Anyway. Sad story.

[@scallopohare9431]

They get paid to promote that number.

[@judd0112]

@@scallopohare9431 that too

[@williambrandondavis6897]

@@judd0112 There are a lot more run away kids then there are abducted kids so yea, most of the time the kid is sneaking out, late home or a run away. Especially back in the 70’s when the population was half of what is today and most people still lived in small towns where everyone knew everyone and all their business.

[@judd0112]

@@williambrandondavis6897 that was just an example of how much they were not concerned about a missing kid. U gonna believe a cop when he’s trying to tell ya not to worry your 8 year old just ran away he will be back soon. ,, another example domestic violence wasn’t a crime lots of things that are prioritized now were not even worried about them. So mental health issues would go unchecked untreated for decades or forever until it’s too late and being analyzed in hindsight.

[@meaderanizer228]

Thank you for this absorbing episode, I think one of your best 👏 RIP Father and Son.

[@Pertusetian]

The man had talent, for sure. He was also a bit unhinged, from what I can tell. Great vid, Mr Midnight!

[@Tsumami__]

A bit???

[@judd0112]

Sometimes the ones with the most talent are slightly unhinged

[@simrdownmon6431]

More than anything, this is a story of a man who was a slave to his own mind.

[@mikealman9259]

Mental Health comes in all shapes and sizes and NEVER DISCRIMINATES, so If u ever come across someone "Different" show them the same love and respect u would want to be shown to yourself. Cos one day U could be the "Different" one! I'm glad he achieved that massive goal ;) even though It was met with ambivalence :( and TY for covering this story with your usual respect and compassion.

[@heatherhillman1]

At the end he was screaming for help in the way only a suicidal person can. Silently. It's unfortunate. He reached out for help, but the mental health system in this country is abysmal. RIP John and John's dad. Very sad story.

[@Xsksnssjccxghb]

Your analysis is always very on point, also the short personal messages you often add has genuine touch to them

[@StandedInUtah]

That was a difficult story to hear. It must have exceptionally hard to research and write. Thank you.

[@OneBlueFroggy]

That was very interesting. John looking for recognition is sad, all he really needed was to was to recognize himself and give himself approval. Just my opinion of course. Stay well everybody ! 👍 🇨🇦 ✌️

[@123yrmama]

I lived in Alaska for 18 years and did lots of climbing in the Alaska range. John was my hero back then. We knew about his amazing climbs back then. He climbed solo because he was not very social and would push it harder than most climbers. He definitely has mental problems and his last climb he knew it would be his last.

[@clobxg2025]

i am reading into the wild in class and i just felt very relatable to waterman and had to know more about his story thank you

[@hollieBlu303]

I have been watching your videos, pretty religiously working through your back catalogue...this one hit me HARD. Utterly tragic. What a waste of such a talent...and a whole family. This one really hurt to watch. RIP the gentlemen of the family Waterman. I hope you have found peace.

[@pamelamorgan7354]

Very sad story. Thank you for being compassionate toward this mountaineer and his father.

[@randallsavage13]

man this channel should have 25k by the end of the year great work

[@triciadenson49]

Love that you added the hotline number at the end. Would love to see you update it to the new 988 number. Far easier to remember. Thank you for this thoughtful video

[@robgrey6183]

I was climbing in those years, and climbed Denali by the Muldrow route. Climbing and making a living was always a juggling act. The irony is that, if Waterman had lived now, he would have been a sponsored climber. North Face or some other corporation would have funded his adventures. I live in Jackson Hole and know skiers, snowboarder, climbers who have gone this route.

[@stevenr5534]

John had the mountaineering skills to be a sponsored climber; but, would he have had the patience and temperament to be a company's spokesclimber and swan around conventions and trade shows talking up his employer's gear?

[@skunkrat01]

Wow that definitely was morbid. Goes to show you don't need a mass casualty event to stoke despair

[@Ronin4614]

What a dark, sad, and utterly depressing tale that wrapped itself around mountaineering. The contact phone number at the end of the video was splendid idea. Take care, out there 👍👍

[@karmaclanton5544]

I really like this story thanks for sharing.

[@ronl8495]

When the lost becomes the lost! Sad! 😫

[@mauricedavis2160]

How tragic and a little scary, thank you for another excellent episode!!!🙏😢🏔️

[@MorganBF1]

This was so sad :( that whole family was suffering.

[@zanpsimer7685]

I do not want to speak ill of the dead and I never have responded disrespectfully to any of the stories where mountaineers died. This kid, however, obviously had emotional issues. Given his brother’s dramatic disappearance and his father’s response to Waterman’s suicide I think there was surely dysfunction in that family.

[@AkDragosani]

Great Story.. Told Well 👏🏻👍🏻

[@comptonoverland7442]

I had a freind Carl Tobin he said he climbed with him on mt. Deborah and he was crazy when I lived in Alaska. I also climbed denali 3 times and tried hunter once. I would often think of John up there and that solo he did was probably the hardest solo ever !!

[@Transilvanian90]

I feel bad for the guy, such a talented climber with such a tragic end. It's a pity his talent wasn't recognized after that super-hard ascent of Hunter and someone could've hired him as a professional Search and Rescue climber or something, give him a purpose to perhaps prevent his descent into depression and ultimately suicide.

[@judd0112]

If he had a partner it would have been a totally different story

[@williambrandondavis6897]

Yea, because everyone that ever killer themselves was a saint and the world would have been better off without them? Lol. You don’t know these people or what they might been hiding. Dude was obviously crazy as hell. Might of done the world a favor, you don’t know. How many people do you think have killed themselves out of guilt for the horrible crimes they have gotten away with or desire to commit? Gotta be at least a few murders, rapists and pedophiles.

[@fivesix5]

i reckon he would have made a great mountain guide. rip big dude

[@judd0112]

A CLIMBING PARTNER!!! Your never supposed to mountaineer without one. Kinda like swimming or something 2nd grade everyone partner up!!!

[@Transilvanian90]

@@williambrandondavis6897 Dude what? You just assumed with zero evidence that he's somehow a criminal and the world is better off because he's dead? What the actual fuck?!

[@guckertott]

I first met John in the summer of 1975, we both worked at Northland Wood Products in Fairbanks Ak. He was a very unique person for sure, but I really enjoyed his stories. John worked the Green Chain, the hardest job at the sawmill, he stacked green lumber all day long, he had amazing strength and endurance at only about 5’3”, he said he needed to prepare his self for the Mt Hunter climb. At break time he would pull out his flute and play music, would keep us all in good spirits. He took me climbing with him a couple times out on Chena Hot Springs Road had me doing things I didn’t think I could do. He lived in a Red Econoline Van that was full of climbing gear. He was the type of person if you ever met him you would never forget him. R.I.P John

[@courtneyalva]

Gosh, that’s a sad story. I understand the struggle to cope with the set standards of a “normal life” in this world. Most people who do struggle against the unnatural ways of life we promote, find misery & economic hardship. I think the problem, is what we label as normal, & the shoulds of life. I’m not a climber, but I’m so fascinated with mountains & have told everyone for years, they’ll know when I’m ready to die because I’ll climb a cold hill & die on it 😅. I want to be preserved anyway.

[@smittysmeee]

It's scary to hear real life stories about mental illness creeping in and consuming all good sense unto death. This story reminds me of Timothy Treadwell's story. Do what you can to intervene if someone you care about starts down that rocky path. But ultimately, the only ones who can help them are God and themselves. This video is very well done, btw. I'm subbed.

[@chrisakaschulbus4903]

But they have and should have the decision to do with their lifes as they please. "My body, my choice" and all that fancy stuff.

[@Leroyscaand]

“God”😂

[@edwardallen4619]

I hung out with a cat named Billy Waterman growing up in CT in late 60s.Him and his family were always going rock climbing along the Hudson around New Paultz.Billy was cool and wild as we all were back then.I remember going to a Cream concert IN a high school gym with him so it must have been around 1967 or so.Got real stoned as I recall.I remember Billy had a severe ankle injury hopping a freight train that hindered his ability to climb.He moved out to California shortly thereafter and we sort of lost touch.Sad to hear he disappeared.Anyway I am pretty sure Billy was John s older brother.

[@donaldsmith810]

From the nyt and outside online pieces on Guy, Bill had his leg amputated and also moved to Alaska, falling into a "drug-addled oblivion"

[@yusefasabiyah495]

This stuff will fascinate me to the day I die. I like the way you start out saying a lot of people see climbing as nuts, and climbers as nuts for risking their lives for something as silly as summiting a mountain. "Reaching the peak". Reaching the top of a heap of rocks and dirt...Usually in the middle of nowhere. Or, failing to reach a peak of muck and shucks, dying ,trying. Then you point out there are others who find this entirely acceptable and sane. Climbers, mountaineers, alpinists. They're interesting and they lead lives which are interesting, even though their lives may be brief, painful, and lonely. It is kind of cool, and just looking at these vertiginous shots, of vertiginous souls, of people clambering, seemingly hopelessly, is bracing. Then you launch us into the case of John Waterman. I may have missed something, but in terms of finding photographs, this was the best you could do? There were no color photographs of John Waterman, ever, or any showing him smiling, and being happy and humorous, charismatic? I think not. Okay, you're interested in morbidity, and midnight. I don't really understand why the color, charisma, the joy, "faded to black". He could have made the McKinley climb if he hadn't gone crazy. He probably looked down into one of those crevasses and saw Elvis staring up at him. Elvis and Jim Morrison. Jim Morrison and James Dean. Elvis, Jim Morrison, James Dean, and Richard Nixon, staring up at him from inside a crevasse.

[@joemadda]

Being in a tent that snows on you when the wind blows is simply glorious!

[@boudicajones6524]

“Why don’t other people value climbing up rocks as much as I do?”

[@Rehbock137]

My wife and I provided John Waterman a place to stay as he readied for his last climb. I think I know what happened but I know nothing that doesn’t call for speculation so I can’t say.

[@tylergable2445]

Damn no one talking about his dad? How sad. Man missed his son so much, he went back to get lost with him one last time 😞.

[@goddessofthewilderness]

"Good Morning Midnight" Life and Death In The Wild by Chip Brown is the life story of Guy Waterman.

[@chloedoritoloco8537]

This book has stayed with me since I read it, brilliantly written

[@John-ym9ht]

The hardest peaks to summit are the ones in our own minds.

[@melissamcclain34]

Thanks for another awesome video!

[@dumbcat]

lost 8 of his friends? heck most people don't even have 8 friends

[@patrickagee]

The bond between a father and son is unbreakable. Trust me when I say I know

[@opheliaelesse]

please listen: try to help all things weak, buy yourself the best organic darjeeling, sit down and have a cup of tea that's happiness ❤

[@fedkarphitchamer9905]

If anyone is interested, there is a very good book about Guy Waterman, which I read several years ago, called "Good Morning Midnight"

[@jamest6837]

Stumbled across your channel,your channel is really good and I think you will have many more subscribers in the future, thanks for your videos, I've done some shipwreck diving on the east coast and even seen and touched a u-boat, u-352 but never pushed my limits..

[@erickmischke38]

My childhood friend, Winston Branco Churchill, had always had self conflicts in his life. One winter he decided to do a Rocky Mountain trail, similar to the Appalachian trail, with his dog. After one of his meetups with a close friend of his, delivering supples, he said, “please take my dog back with you”. An unusual request, as they were inseparable. He was found in early July, after some snow pack melt, just 100 feet from a cabin. Thank you for leaving the hotline number up for as long as you did, but can you edit your videos? I believe the new number is simply 988.

[@krystlships]

I once read a comment where someone said even if you're suicidal and you head to the mountains/wilderness, you will change your mind once you're there. Guess that's not always the case. I'm sorry for Johns struggles and subsequently Guys pain. What a loss for their family.

[@fangbanga7021]

Another banger man keep it up spooky stuff

[@timekeeper2117]

validate yourself💯. live longer.

[@Evanderj]

The effect it had on his father really hurts my heart.

[@iwaswrongabouteveryhthing]

Powerful video

[@rhouser1280]

Thanks for putting that number up at the end, hopefully it helps someone

[@ClimbnFish]

If you’re climbing for recognition or approval you’ll do things you shouldn’t. Climb for yourself. I have first ascents no one knows about. I like it that way.

[@gracej286]

The book Into the Wild by Jon Krakauer has a really interesting segment on John Waterman and other mountaineers. Its a good read to try and figure out just why people risk it all.

[@joshthemediocre7824]

If John could have just been born in the 90's or after he would have had Facebook & tiktok, on there that he would have had all kinds of attention for what he did, plus he would have been connected with a much wider community and go fund me's. Had he been born later he is the type of person the world loves and he would have felt it. In the meantime i have to push mow my neighbors yard when i do mine because he's always at work and none of his kids aged 16-20 have the ambition to do it, and i feel bad for the guy.

[@kathyinwonderlandl.a.8934]

You mow your neighbors yard when his sons could? Come 9n that’s just so enabling…you encourage bad behavior when you mow his lawn. The man needs to empower his spawn by teaching them responsibility and work ethics..try to just mow your yard and let Pops figure things out.

[@ericaschloeder1475]

That's so heartbreaking

[@Khodorchan]

Very sad story. 😢

[@uprightape100]

Thank you.......this might be the most troubling vid you have done. But necessary.

[@lukycharms9970]

“As he would walk around campus with a flowing black cape with sunglasses with a star while walking around with a taped up guitar” Yeahhhh…. I don’t think it was his focus on mountaineering in his teenage years that limited his success with women…….

[@MiddayEnglishman]

Ahhhhh it's me! Just got back from mountaineering and caving in 2 caves with grim reaper signs.. I "had" video but twitter banned me for sharing an outide link basically for fck all.. guess I'll have to do it again.. being suicidal then finding out you lost all your followers and content because.. Loads of respect to John, I know how he feels!

[@MiddayEnglishman]

It's nice of you to share the suicide helpline btu they don't do anything.. really just mock you for being silly and selfish.

[@normanmcneal3605]

Another gvt success

[@ClimbnFish]

I climbed for 2 decades and buried friends. I have no regrets. People die every day. When I had kids I quit. Risk is a strange thing. I’d never want my kids climbing. People do drugs, sleep around, things I now consider foolish. Nothing like climbing UP through the clouds in Alaska. Nothing compares. It was way less self destructive than the things I did when I was a teen. It’s not for everyone but if you have a zest for life it’s amazing.

[@HiDesert004]

I remember reading about this guy in "Into The Wild"

[@charliekezza]

Poor guy makes life hard when your heads screwed up and you can't get the right help. Might have made all the difference. And his dad just breaks your heart.

[@nonmihiseddeo4181]

If you watch the movie "Meru," Conrad Anker believe(d)(s) that he could manage the risks, keep the risks to an acceptable limit. I'm sure other mountaineers share Anker's belief in risk management at altitude, despite the numerous variables.

[@Tsumami__]

Conrad isn’t suffering from serious mental instability, though.

[@MorbidMidnight]

I really enjoyed that film! Anker's very rational approach to risk management is definitely admirable, but it also shows that it's really up to an individual to weigh their own risks, as it probably would have been the rational thing to do to leave Ozturk behind for the second attempt. He worked so hard to make that trip that Chin and Anker weren't in much of a position to deny him a spot on the team.

[@glasair38sr]

@@MorbidMidnight Loved that one, and most certainly ‘Touching the Void’.

[@ClimbnFish]

You can try to minimize risk climbing but managing it is an illusion. When I first started 25 years ago my mentor told me “ you can do everything right and still die. If you can’t accept that quit now”. I did it for twenty years but quit when I had kids. Too much to live for now.

[@marlenedouglas7957]

A clever man that just couldn't quite find fulfilment. All sad. Thank you.

[@nathandalke9318]

I cant believe that John waterman went to climb that mountain the year the month that I was born in March 24th of 1981 that be 42 years ago today in 2023 rest in peace to them

[@robertdeal410]

Sadly beautiful

[@kozusaisima9471]

Fuck..... I feel so sorry for the father

[@ELECTRICMOTOCROSSMACHINE]

Crazy story.

[@JayB2]

He wasn't happy with his life. In a way him taking these huge risks was a form of suicide. This story was kinda sad.

[@nathankerr9824]

I wonder if the bush pilot got his $20 back?

[@wh1zkidd]

hilarious joke, edgelord.

[@aftersexhighfives]

Could have just named him Dave instead of twisting the knife of dude that was owed money by him repeatedly lol. It's an interesting word count padding writing decision.

[@sirandrelefaedelinoge]

Such a ghoul...

[@originalmindset5278]

I doubt it.

[@TheNuckinFoob]

Another great video. So many people we walk by every day that have the potential to be amazingly interesting human beings. One of my favorite things to do, pre covid, was to go to VFW posts and just hang out and talk with folks.

[@simrdownmon6431]

More than anything,this is a story of a man who was a slave to his own mind.

[@joshuam.1215]

You'd think he could have checked in on getting a few sponsors or get a local news reporter to cover his ascent of Hunter prior to taking off for the summit.

[@nickd3157]

I didn’t expect to feel so personally attacked…feelings are weird..

[@zarasbazaar]

Fairbanks is full of many such eccentric lost souls. I wish he could have gotten the mental health care that he needed.

[@kacieogle513]

Damn, what a story

[@gelconnolly7216]

How would he not know what would happen as he had spent time outside in the wild.

[@kixigvak]

A classic case of psychological deterioration. He had the smarts to recognize that he need psychiatric care. It's unfortunate that it didn't work out. Excellent report on the tragedy.

[@elf367]

I was feeling sorry for John when he apparently told his dad he found it difficult to talk to women. But then his college experience entailed him walking around wearing a cape preaching free love and drug use and sing badly on a broken guitar. I’m like ohhhhhh yeah that’s off putting

[@lornarettig3215]

… that, and coming across as pretty entitled after completing the Mount Hunter summit and complaining that there was ‘no reward from society’ and he had to - gasp!! - get a job like everyone else. Most people who achieve greatness in their chosen activity don’t get any recognition by the wider community. I don’t care for that sort of ego.

[@nildabridgeman8104]

@@lornarettig3215 I thought the same thing. He expected worship from the world. Life is about work to care for yourself & children.. a grown person understands this & gets to work without complaining. You wanna make more, do the work

[@civmar1]

Suggest you do Tasker/Boardman lost on Everest.

[@Timpon_Dorz]

Dude thinks because he climbed the mountain, we should kiss the ground he walked on? Lol

[@dominikz.1376]

I was a teenage werewolf, too

[@DA-bp8lf]

There was definitely something wrong with this guys head? But you have to admit, he was a bad ass in the mountains! RIP BRO ❤

[@naughtiusmaximus830]

Just because you are paranoid doesn’t mean they aren’t out to get you.