The Todd Method Nitro engine break in part 1: introduction discussion heat cycle why and how

In this video we discuss what I call the Todd Method, a modified heat cycle engine break in method.

[@allaspectsrc4178]

Nice to see u back with a video

[@Myth-Busters797]

Always a great vid and a valuable point 🤙

[@aimlockersesp7680]

Ill take that information

[@coryament]

my son and I just broke in a Dynamite mach2 .21. the engine was wanting to run way hot and seemed to have a super tight pinch. we used the compressor to keep it cool. it took almost 3/4 gallon before we could even try to drive it. finally we realized the carb sucked and swapped it with the Kyosho carb. after that it came right around and started to run great

[@kraftcraft2934]

Cool motor is at idle after been hot 🔥 I know all motors are different

[@brandonpfister]

Todd, I watched these 2 videos a couple of times because I liked them so much. I had a couple questions that I hope I didn't miss the answers to in your videos. 1.) Do you use the same procedure on "premium"/tight engines as you do on more budget friendly or RTR engines? 2.) On small displacement engines (like .12) would you cut the fuel in half? I realize these questions may sound totally dumb here... that's why I have waited so long to ask.

[@NitroTalkwithTodd]

I do the same procedure on every engine that I break in. Most of my old race Novarossi engines were broken in this way. Yes, I would use about half the amount of fuel on a .12 It would take around the same amount of time, and it would be about the same number of(smaller) tanks.

[@brandonpfister]

@NitroTalkwithTodd Awesome! Thank you so much! I really appreciate your work. It really is a gold mine of information, especially when you consider how we learned in the RC world before. It was word of mouth or a magazine, back in the old days! Even 10 years ago, there was not quality, REAL, fact based information around nitro/glow land vehicles. There was bad advice/information present on KZbin and a million opinions online. Information on fuel would be a perfect example here. Or even something simple like front bearings! Or a bearing in a certain engine... like the MGT 8.0. It had an odd size... I remember watching a dang DVD for engine tuning and had all my notes out so I didn't burn up my gently used (but new to me) MGT 8.0!!! I was a nervous wreck! Haha! Anyway... thank you, Todd :) I hope you're doin' alright, man! :)

[@NitroTalkwithTodd]

If I remember correctly, the 8.0 was prone to air leaks at the front bearing causing tuning issues right? I was just thinking about it, maybe it just sucked too much? Maybe there is a point when an engine gets too big, and can no longer be properly sealed with a standard front bearing. They are essentially air pumps, one could assume the larger the engine the more negative pressure created in the crankcase. Maybe bearings started leaking after minimal wear due to the excessive pressure... Interesting to think about, and experiments could be done, if they haven't been done already. I've been thinking about making a Nitro iceberg list. With obscure brands and concepts such as Singh grooves at the bottom. I appreciate the support, thanks for watching.

[@kraftcraft2934]

When I brake in motor it takes 2packs of cigs n box of been it's long process it's like 4hour process

[@aimlockersesp7680]

I have a question last week i broke my lrp z28 spec 3 it has alot of power and im running really rich i can lean it but the thing is i can drive only with 16 % nitro because of the shitty europeans but back to my question so the engine have really a ton of power with rich settings and the temperature is good around 130 celsius if i lean it the temperatur rise really fast . Is it because the engine is new and the sleeve is tight

[@ZingZingNZ]

You answered your own question

[@aimlockersesp7680]

@@ZingZingNZ ok thx mate you know i just really needed a confirmation about that thx

[@luigibellantoni6828]

do you ever clean your cars? 😆