The TRUTH about 2-Stroke oil!

[@Idahoprepper71]

Outboard motors run very cool, so the oils also designed for a cooler running engine

[@chainsawcanuck]

I've always like red armor , works well, has fuel stabilizer in it, and like you said, can grab it from home depot which is 5 minutes away for me

[@chadrogers4635]

Stihl's oil is Castrol 2 cycle motor oil. If you look at some of the older bottles they have the Castrol name and emblem on them on the back at the bottom of the back label.

[@WillSmith-gv1ok]

Stilh has Castrol plant in the us to mix there oil for them.

[@rickvann3489]

Castrol doesn't make oil they buy oil from Pennzoil or EXXONMOBIL etc. Then have it blended in different parts of the country.

[@REDLINERUNNER]

JASO FB the lowest normed oil on the market... Expensive junk!!

[@enginerd1776]

Completely agree- Red Armor @ 40 is the safest for daily use with no residual carbon issues.

[@tedneitzel]

I always do 40:1 myself! I watch Richard Flagg also and he can whip down that 400 Stihl inspect it and have it reassembled in no time running top notch! Ive also got a jug of the Honda oil to try to see if it smells good also!

[@CorwinBos]

Great video Boedy Dull chains and bad tunes kill more saws than anything! Its not really hard to do either, but some people never learn.

[@grizz2702]

Couldn't say it better myself

[@Chris-A-h3t]

Spot on! My experience is the same still Ultra is crap, switched over to Red armor and I was blown away it literally melts the carbon to liquid and burns it out cylinders and pistons look new. Also has helped revive a lot of old saws that haven't ran in years. I run 32 to 1 Echo Red armor in everything old and new. I run Amsoil dominator in my 2-stroke modified blaster that should have blown up already. Both Echo Red armor and Amsoil dominator look identical probably the same stuff. It has extreme protection even in lean conditions when I should have blown things up

[@WileyBell]

I liked your video. I’m planing to try red armor at 40:1. I burned a ton of lawn boy at 32:1 with no problems. Stihl ultra has been my go to for years because I had a in with a dealer no problems except for spark arresters and plastics getting terribly dirty and clogged up. I enjoyed your video and I certainly don’t have virgin ears but some of the superlatives I found to be unnecessary while I was trying to teach my 10 yr old grandson something about mixed gas. I truly believe a good non ethanol gas is more important than the oil at 40:1. Just works for me. A close friend of mine is a mercury master mechanic and has told me numerous times marine 2 stroke oil is for water cooled engines only. Not formulated for air cooled 12-15,000 rpm engines. Have said enough. Have a good evening Sir!

[@JoshNoss]

Yes marine oils are a BIG no no for saws

[@afleetcommand]

OK, thought u were going to go one level deeper, the ester vs. paraffin vs dino vs bean etc. , and the different generations of synthetics all have different burn characteristics that effect lubricity & carbon build up. Working from the perspective of understanding the base stock and how that effects the final product will help "predict" the characteristics of the oil. AND you are right, most will work or they would not be on the market. But some work better than others in different applications and work scenario's. AND the definition of "Better" oil is defined with matching the base stock with the application. BUT just a farmer....and I am not wasting with my mix choice. The oils I avoid are any paraffin based oil, any of the early generation synthetics like the Bel-Ray MC1 . The oils I like are typically marketed as "synthetic blends' ( I chose based on base stock ) and the better ester based oils like Bel-Ray H1R :) Some of the "Autotunes" felt the wrath of the paraffins. :)

[@Slane583]

I love Richard Flagg's oil test series. He ran the VP Racing oil in one episode and showed that it ran clean and gave good lubrication at 40:1. Plus the big bottle of VP oil goes for $10 so it's affordable. AMSOIL Saber is my preferred default oil but it's like looking for hens teeth in my area and the one store that used to sell it no longer does. But since I'm in an area where snowmobiling is a big thing so a lot of the smaller family run stores carry AMSOIL Interceptor. I bought a quart of Interceptor and Dominator last summer to give a try but it was just pissing down rain all summer. So I never got around to cutting any trees. Also, Project Farm tested bar oils a few weeks ago and showed that STIHL's own bar oil is just as bad as their pre-mix oil. It caused the most wear out of all the oils tested and the lab test results showed that it had no additive package in it to help prevent bar wear. Funny enough even Husqvarna's own bar oil wasn't all that great for how much it is. One of the best bar oils tested was also the cheapest which was quite amusing. I'll use up my Husky bar oil this coming summer just to get rid of it and I'll go with the Harvest King stuff he tested, I can get a 2 gallon jug for $15 at my local farm store. :)

[@Houseworksaws]

In my work saws and personal saws I use Dominator. It’s a damn good mix oil. I’ve run hundreds of gallons of it mixed up.

[@MrBooMY3]

I've been using Super tech TCW3 Marine 2 Stroke at 40:1 with e free gas and stabilizer. Have yet to have ANY lubrication related issues. I've had MANY people tell me OH it's for water cooled 2 strokes not air cooled. It's funny that I've been running it in ALL of my equipment for years. I'll let them know if i have a failure related to it. But it works even in my 14,000rpm Zenoah Clone with 372XP carb custom intake & lightly ported filter horn, cylinder intake, exhaust, and piston transfer ports. It only has normal wear when I pulled the cylinder to check it for wear after some hard testing.

[@1quickdub]

At least you're mixing 40:1, could even go richer if you wanted - especially during a break in. Glad that stuff is working well for you. Someone picking up a random marine 2 stroke oil and mixing it at 50:1 or 100:1 might not be so lucky, plenty of saws have been burned up like this

[@Thumper68]

I run cheapest 2 stroke oil I can buy at 40:1 in my real 372xp and it’s a beast

[@MrBooMY3]

@@Thumper68 Anything is better than nothing.

[@Thumper68]

@@MrBooMY3 dang right I was in agreement with your original comment. If it came across different my bad

[@Icutmetal]

@@MrBooMY3No shit?

[@ragercrepair9301]

As far as all the oils go I agree red armor is the best for availability and quality. I always used "head to start" 2 stroke snowmobile oil until it got bought out by Mobil 1 and the name changed. I feel any oil is better than no oil and always run it a little rich. My dad would always say"Spark plugs are cheaper than pistons!" and I've lived by that. Never have I ever blown up an engine from too much oil, but I have found too much causes a lot of extra carbon in a stock machine. I run the small mix ready containers simply because I don't have to measure anything and I'm lazy when I'm at the pump. It's always worked for me! I do run marine oil in my boat and it does seem thinner. I'd say a muffler mod on all small engine equipment and tuning the carb just a tiny bit fat is the best way to keep them cool. Also I run 1/2 a qt of Lucas engine oil stabilizer in my bar oil. That makes it stringy/sticky and keeps the bar cool. Also a sharp chain is #1! I agree stihl oil sucks. Most saws I rebuild that have scored cylinders and half melted pistons are hard core stihl owners that run stihl oil. Great video and I couldn't agree with you more!

[@stevenkinnison8044]

Super Tech is pretty much all I ever use and have never had any issues.

[@frankz1125]

My favorite is Klotz. Smells great too. Smokeless and ashless. Cheers

[@matticus6339]

Which Klotz? They make several different 2 stroke oils.

[@frankz1125]

@@matticus6339 I've used a couple and all the ones I've used have been great at 40:1. I am using TC-W3 for snowmobiles now because it's thinner in the winter but usually use R50 for dirt bikes. Any of them are very good I'm sure. 90 ml oil to 4 L gas. Good stuff.

[@BentIronBins]

@@frankz1125yes sir Klotz smells nice used it in my race bikes way back when 💪

[@OtisFlint]

Castor oil gums everything up. We only used Koltz in race bikes with 15-25 hour max time between rebuilds, and by then they were filthy.

[@frankz1125]

@@OtisFlint interesting. I run it in my ported saws and it is great. Didn't seem overly dirty but well lubricanted . I do run 40:1. Cheers

[@thetwostrokerebuilder]

Team Honda in 90s used yamalube 2r. In Honda HP bottles. Maxima superM is very good for chainsaw. Castor oil will carbon up after awhile been there done that. Use to use my bike gas 927 in my saws a lot . But it's the best protection 🏁🏁 just gotta clean and maintain them

[@DirtBikeGrub]

RE: Outboard 2-stroke. My father worked as test engineer in an Australian lawn care company called Victa for 40 years. They ran a 160cc two stroke mower engine until the early 2000's. Management had him fly to Europe in 1990 as a lot of the exported engines started seizing around coastal areas. They determined it was the marine 2-stroke oil customers were using which was breaking down at high temps and causing the piston to begin picking up/seizing on the exhaust side. Turns out that marine 2 stroke is more specifically designed for water cooled engines which typically run alot cooler.

[@harry8506]

Your dad was right, I have had that argument before, people don't understand 2 stroke air cooled rely on the oil film to transfer heat from the piston to the cylinder walls.

[@DallasVincent-uz6vo]

So if I've got a liquid cooled (radiator) 2 stroke dirt bike it can run marine 2 stroke oil?

[@harry8506]

@@DallasVincent-uz6vo the cooling system in an outboard is vastly different to a dirt bike, stick to the right type of oil.

[@jackdawg4579]

As long as an oil meets ISO EG-B C or D standards I will run it. My favourite brand is called "on special", and if that isn't available, my next go to brand is "whatever is cheap" - sounds like I have been lucky, because where I come from I can assure you I am in no danger of burning up my gear on Stihl oil, as it is never "on special" or "cheap"

[@stephenparchewski1998]

Great video. Now, about the Stihl Ultra, I have a Stihl 4 mix engine that only runs properly off of it for some reason (when I tried other oils, it ran like total crap). I read somewhere that the stihl ultra oil was designed for their 4 mix engines and not specifically for 2 strokes. For my other 2 stroke equipment, I use white bottle Stihl oil, simply because they come in these cute little pre-measured bottles.

[@carnold.knowledge]

Started running the HP2 at 40:1 in all my Echo and Stihl equipment, largely due to Richard Flagg. Though I haven’t done a tear down, it still runs pretty clean, and the engines are slightly cooler by about 5-10 degrees F. The spark plug and arrestor screen do get dirtier quicker, likely due to 40:1 vs 50:1.

[@ibbylancaster8981]

Man, my boy’s used to ride 2 stroke bikes and the guy that tutored me on 2 strokes ran 36:1 in his bikes. So I went to that with Castor 927 in the mix. I fly RC planes and have always loved the smell of RC gas exhaust and it had the same smell. It does tend to gum up the rings if you let them sit for a while but a shot of fresh gas down the top and let it sit usually loosens them up. I have run 40:1 on my saws and weed eater gas for years and it does make your stuff last a lot longer. I run Husky oil ow simply because all my saws are husky. Much love from NC.

[@dubbssawshop]

I've ran alot of Ams oil Saber and had good luck with it. Pretty clean oil and has a great oil film at 40:1

[@reeksreeks3017]

It has a good thick film cuz it runs 100:1 or 80:1 in place of 40:1 or 50:1. I run the same and like it. I like the stabilization that it comes with. So 40:1= 80:1

[@dubbssawshop]

@@reeksreeks3017 I've ran it at 80:1 but not for long, just dosent seem like any room for error in the tuning.

[@iffykidmn8170]

@@dubbssawshop Been running chainsaws at 50:1 for years given Amsoil's 100:1 claim, my 50:1 should equal 25:1 now how's that for logic?just for perspective that would be 20+yrs burning 5 gallons a week minimum. Been running my KTM dirtbikes at KTM's recommended 80:1 as well with Saber.

[@tylerheard1279]

​@iffykidmn8170 I've heard lots of good things about Sabre at high ratios in KTM bikes

[@daniellang6112]

​@iffykidmn8170 they make Dominator

[@forrestebert5276]

Motul 800 I use it at 50:1 and have had no problems but like you said Red Armor is good as well . I use 101 octane ethanol free racing fuel so it’s clean of additives that kill 2Stroke motors .

[@glennllewellyn7369]

Mogul 800 is the bomb. Works beautifully. Near 25 years using it out to 65:1. Clean as a whistle. Australia.

[@OtisFlint]

Motul 800 is arguably the best pre-mix oil on the planet. No good for injection (too thick), but does incredibly well pre-mixed in race bikes.

[@forrestebert5276]

I use the same oil and either the 101 or 110 octane racing gas as well tear a saw down and it’s pristine inside!

[@diggindiggenit6540]

Yeah i am really new to chainsaws with in the last half year or so I went with Maxima K2 giving that a shot

[@bsutton7964]

I have been in the same camp for years...they all work. Other than the Stihl the only one I wouldn't run is the Super Tech because the one you have is for liquid cooled 2 stroke outboards. I've run the air cooled Super Tech and it's fine. The other question I get often is what ratio to mix? I agree to just go with 40:1 for everything from dirt bikes to model airplane engines.

[@harry8506]

I use 25:1, and have used every brand of oil on the market (what I got free) never had an issue with carbon, I have rebuilt many saws running 50:1 they always pick up the piston after extended use. I have worn out a saw running 25:1 and the piston and bearings were fine only the rings wore out, it was an old saw and I used it 8 hours + per day for five days in 38-40C heat. Out board oil works but don't use it for extended periods, it doesn't have the cooling properties but it does clean well, I used it in a mower that was run with no air filter and had lots of dirt and grass in the crank case cleaned it out nice.

[@matticus6339]

Love some 927. I just mixed up a fresh batch Sunday. I just wish Maxima would put some dye in it. 927 is a castor blend, Klotz makes a castor blend as well, there Super Techniplate, has dye in it but never tried it. The smell of 927 is just amazing.

[@dennisyoung4631]

A drop or two of Transtint dye in the fuel?

[@TumbleweedRancher]

I remember Johns Custom Saws liked the VP premix. Have some, but haven't run it yet.

[@ToddAdams1234]

Any idea of what happened to him? The last time that I remember him putting up a video he wasn’t seeming to be doing very well. When he said that it was something intestinal, I asked him if it was Chron’s and then he responded back that it was. I have it and it’s NOT the end of the world. I had a bowel resection in 2004 and I almost died in the hospital because of an infection, but After 6ish months (as far as I remember) I was finally doing what I’ve always done, just pooping like crazy. About 4months back my neurologist had to prescribe me Tramadol for an MS related issue but after that my poop issue is TONS better and almost like I no longer have Chron’s.

[@starlightHT]

The Husqy manual says clearly not to use 2T marine oil, you can say goodbye to the warranty. At least here in Europe

[@MrBooMY3]

Why tell them what you're using? The Synthetic Super tech 2 stroke non marine is still blue.

[@tjgrossman]

I run 90/10 Klotz/Castor in my RC engines and nothing protects bearings as good as Castor oil. Currently, in my saws, I’m running Amsoil Saber @ 40:1, really like it. Used Husky LS for many years without issue too.

[@TheGreasyShopRag]

If a new customer asks what kind of oil to buy I always tell them to look for an FD rating. The brand of the oil doesn't matter if it has met those specs and at least then I know they are running something that isn't crap. The rest of you with experience can choose whatever works for you.

[@novicelumberjack]

That's a good rule to advise. And well put.

[@bluffsidetreeservice]

Cheapest stuff I can find is the stihl orange bottle. $30 a gallon at my dealer. I mix 200 gallons a year at 50-1 with no issues

[@jadeolin8514]

I've heard quite a few people say the stihl orange bottle oil is miles better than the ultra.. not top tier but a decent oil for the price.

[@AlanPhillips-g1c]

Red armor contains Polybutene which keeps the deposits low but by itself is not an optimal lubricant according to a paper from Yamaha. Cheap mineral based 2 stroke oil lubricates fine but leaves more deposits. These deposits can cause scoring of the piston if they dislodge. Also the exhaust port, muffler and spark arrestor will plug up using cheap low detergent oil. Use FD rated oil to take advantage of the most current oil technology.

[@johnsonlong1272]

All 2 strokes 40:1 any FD or greater rated 2 stroke mix oil. And never use sthil ultra for anything but starting a fire. Personally my go-to choice oil is Schaefer's XP 2-cycle it's clean does an excellent job. It has built in friction modifiers, Micron Moly® and Penetro®, which create a slippery, tenacious shield to prevent metal-to-metal contact. Even when you’re pushing your machine to the limit in demanding conditions. < Yes I copied that part from their website mostly for spelling 🤣. Great video and it is very true most any oil will work and be just fine with the exception of sthil ultra FB rated oil and a couple others that are also lower than FD rated carbon builders and lacking lubrication value as well.

[@davidbryan5203]

I've burned many many gallons of the Premixed VP Racing 40:1 fuel with excellent results. All of my two stroke outdoor equipment runs it flawlessly. Everything from my cheap Echo weadeaters and blowers all the way up to my hopped up, ported, high compression Husqvarna 365. Easy starting, cool running, low carbon buildup, stable octane rating, long shelf life (when properly stored) and great wear protection. Plus as an added bonus; it smells like a day at the race track every time I break out the two stroke tools. Red Armor is great as well. I just got tired of keeping track of the constantly multiplying/disappearing 1-2.5 gallon jugs of mixed gas. Was that ethanol free? Did I already mix it or is it virgin gas? How long has that been rolling around the truck bed? Did I do my math right or did I just mix that at 29.2:1? All of that aggravation is rectified by using the premix. That's worth the extra cost to me.

[@kimstocks4485]

redbull 661 did a lot of great testing with red armor....piston stays clean and smells good!

[@aaronpowell4885]

Very well said👍🏻 sure, a lot of us have our preferences and there are definitely oils better suited to different applications but at the end of the day, almost anything will work at sensible ratios. The HP2 has a neutral smell IMO. Close to Red Armor just not as sweet.

[@DrYosh2]

I run 40:1 in my personal equipment, which incidentally is the same fuel I put in my customers equipment. I tend to buy oil by the gallon and use a mix bottle. Currently, I'm messing around with the Stihl Ultra oil. I am disappointed that its only JASO FB rated though. I have seen quite a few engines with low compression with Ultra oil in the tank come across my bench. I have seen quite a few with TruFuel as well. However, I don't think I've seen much, if any engine failure with the Stihl "High Performance" oil.

[@OtisFlint]

Personally I never go heavier than 60:1 on oil, only exception would be a small bore MX bike. 250cc and up, 60:1 is plenty. A high-quality synthetic just doesn't need that much oil to lubricate everything, adding extra just makes a gunked up mess. The mix in my power equipment now is about 80:1 with Amsoil Saber, no issues. My 300cc cross country bike is injected and averages about 80:1. 150 hours and the motor is in great shape.

[@chrisjacobs2182]

Once again love the humor! "It works" can't argue with that but also agree! Good video and good info!

[@ORflycaster]

My elderly dad has a large collection of 2T equipment. I visited him this summer and ran everything to make sure it was operational. Some of it wasn’t, and some not well. He’s run Stihl oil exclusively (bought the gallon jug) and I asked him if he’d mind me changing his oil brand. He didn’t care, so I ran to town and bought a quart of Amsoil Saber 100:1 oil, and mixed it 50:1. normally use Res Armor @ 40:1 in my equipment, but since Amsoil claimed such a thin ratio, I thought 50:1 was still safe. I took a few hours to swap fuel out of everything (and rebuild one carb), but long story short, his equipment immediately ran better, and continued to improve during use. Better throttle response, and more rpm’s at high rev. I peaked inside one brush cutter and the piston was well coated with Smurf Kool-Aid. And before someone asks, he’s always used ethanol free fuel so that was not an issue. I told him to pour what was left of his Stihl oil on his brush pile. He’s old enough now that I will be using most of his tools when I visit, and I plan to use nothing but Amsoil moving forward. It’s very expensive, but a quart will last a long time since I’m only using it a few times each summer. I will probably switch over for my equipment when my red armor supply runs out.

[@patthesoundguy]

I'm using that Stens Mix (AKA Opti-2) in those pouches I sent as a long term experiment more than anything else... I also buy it in the bottles, so I can mix heavier amounts of oil. I run it in everything 2stroke I have even my ported Poulan, so far so good. Next summer when I get my shop built, I'll be opening up that Poulan and having a look at the bottom end and how it all looks after only running the Stens mix at the pouch mix ratio. It might not be the best for all use case scenarios but I can't wait to see how it works long term, already been using it for years. I also %100 agree, just use whatcha got... All of the regular 2stroke oils would not be sold if they didn't work because no one would buy them and therefore it would not be for sale. I would be using a different ratio when i go up to a 70cc saw because I will want the extra oil for extra protection. I have seen so much proof that the Stihl Ultra is bad I definitly won't ever run it. I used to run IPONE 2stroke racing oil in everything and that was amazing and it also smells like strawberry, I may use that again at some point.

[@Thoreau-e4l]

Everyone talks crap about stihl ultra, but I have a little 270 that's 14 years old, have cut well over a hundred loads of firewood, cleaned the arrestor screen once, carburetor has never been touched.

[@Fueler]

Yup totally agree with you there. My grandfather always used regular motor oil. What ever he had in the truck at the time. Laughed at me when I would measure out my 2 cycle motor oil. I laugh now just thinking about it. Poor pop simpler times I guess.

[@mattdavis7260]

I’ve been using amsoil 2stroke oil for years in all my 2 cycle equipment. One of the reasons is my local hardware store sells it so it’s easy for me to get

[@richardflagg3084]

Congrats on 10K!!!! I’ve been running Ultra since I was just just an itch in my daddy’s pants and never had an issue. 😂😂

[@aaronpowell4885]

😂👍🏻

[@lumbearjack3722]

😂😂😂

[@guerrillaradio9953]

The basic rule of thumb I've gone by is run the mix (and I would agree on somewhere in that 40:1- 32:1 range) in a saw you know really well, and really let it tell you how happy it is by the throttle response and top end. Snappy response and top end? Good oil. Lazy? Throw that junk out. Time will tell for carbon. I've used this for my MS880 I've owned since 2010, and it runs better today than it did a year old with 30 gallons broken in. It's got to have several hundred gallons through it by now. Done crank seals, an oil pump, a couple clutches, couple bars, but nothing else to the engine proper.

[@williambray4134]

I have VP full synthetic. $10 for a 16oz bottle with a built in ratio cup.

[@davidwyby]

Stihl sells an engine decarbonizer product. Wonder why.

[@nyskt1000]

My poor 346 didn’t know there was bad 2-stroke oil until Facebook groups were a thing. I apologized to it for feeding it Tractor Supply and Walmart oil for 20 years. I do just put the Stihl Ultra in my old 7.3 when I get it given to me with a saw😂

[@JohnnyButtercuts]

I just use Husqvarna pre-mix fuel in those cans. If something happens to my saw I can provide all the receipts showing it’s the only stuff I buy. My 585 rips and I love it! I do recommend 2-4 ounces of SeaFoam at the beginning and end of every season to clean out some of that carbon buildup.

[@snoopjonnyjon]

I have one cautionary tale from using Maxima 927, mixed with 100LL avgas. This was/ is my favorite mix in my kx500, banshee and rz350 because it smells so good. But, at cold temperatures 927 will separate in leaded gas. Not a problem in a Jerry can because you can just shake it up. But if it separates in the fuel tank and you forget to shake the machine you can end up filling the carb bowls with straight oil, which is too thick to even drain out of the bowl drains on a motorcycle. So it requires a complete carb removal and cleaning. And on my old 028 stihl it just formed a gel on the fuel filter and it would not pump fuel until warmed up enough it would mix back into the gas. Just one of those things to be aware of, and is no big deal for an enthusiast but could be a headscratcher for the average homeowner. Although I suppose the average homeowner isn't likely running avgas and bean oil.

[@JoshNoss]

It separates in regular fuel below 30f too, it's wrong application to be using castor in a saw for sure.. it's main purpose is to prevent seizure in high stress motors that are torn down often and it'll build up a lot of gunk

[@Grayhawk1976]

Klotz for me 🤘specifically the snowmobile oil. The smell is totally worth it 👌

[@Franknbeans83]

I just ran 16 ounces of this through my little KX 65 worked pretty good

[@chunter9262]

IMO- the marine oils are top shelf. Castrol super outboard at 40:1 has been my go to with E free 93 premium. & No carbon issues.

[@pauljones8796]

I've read that marine engines run much cooler then chainsaws. Both my Stihl and husky manuals specifically say do not use outboard motor oil.

[@CowboyAxe]

I run Lucas semi synthetic after years of using anything I saw on the store shelf. But I changed after hearing Iron Horse, I figure if it is good enough for a fellow his age that used and torn down and repaired 100s or 1000s of saws and he is a wood cutter too, and he loves his saws- So Lucas 40-1 and not another thought about it. And it is available where I live, also tried Red Armour, but that is not even sold here.

[@stihlms400cm3]

Loved your informative and no nonsense talk about Two Stroke Oil, I always used Stihl HP Super because it has a fuel stabiliser, l am heavy handed when it comes to two stroke oil, l am closer to 40:1 than 50:1, totally agree with that, moving parts Love ❤Oil ! Keep up the great content, greetings from Ireland !

[@ellobo761]

Thank you for taking the time to make this video!

[@novicelumberjack]

Glad you enjoyed the video.

[@mucccvhorob4596]

I totally agree with 40:1. I have over a dozen saws and run them almost daily. Some are old some are new they all get 40:1!

[@johndoe-ko8nu]

i totally agree that any oil will work but i judge an oil when then saw burns up and to see the damage .i have had some very good experience with some synth..... oils that saved cylinders in the compression area and yes 40 to 1 ratio i also believe a high flash point is important to get more lub to the entire engine!

[@tylerheard1279]

I think the oil mix ratio should be chosen based more on heat. Don't get me wrong I'm not saying 40:1 is bad but many outboard motors lubricate very well at much higher ratio. I think it's the fact that they run much cooler due to water cooling. I'm a 50:1 Sabre guy in power equipment.

[@barney1941]

the caster is the one oil you cant mix with other oils (or so iv been told) i been wrong b4. im too old for dirtbikes so i use ELF MOTO2XT i close my eyes and whack the throttle on the 044 and im back on the gate waiting for it to drop!

[@JohnDoe-ud2cc]

It does matter, as a family that has been racing 2 stroke dirtbikes for 40 years, not oils are created equal. Some oils separate in cold weather, some don’t mix with ethanol, some are ashy, some leave a waxy film, some don’t burn and oils your exhaust, and some flash at such a low temperature that they flash in the bottom end before it can lubricant the top end. I was skeptical at first especially after running gallons of probably every kind of oil possible and burning up a few bike motors along the way. I exclusively run saber at 80:1 now. It was scary to take a $3k race engine that calls for 32:1 of yamalube and run it wide open on saber80:1, but now I do with no problems.

[@ct1762]

yes. I run a 2 stroke outboard rebuild shop, and I would never put oil designed for chainsaws/air cooled in a water cooled motor and vice versa! He was showing TCW3 for outboards and saying it was fine, which, no doubt, motor will run on it. for how long before it sticks a ring and detonates is anyone's guess. they didn't make 2 different classes of oil for no reason!

[@aaronneher4860]

Have heard more than once that the stihl hp ultra is terrible. My dad just bought a brand new 261 the other day and they tried to get him to buy it for the extended warranty. The guy was straight up mad that he wouldn’t. I told him if he had bought it to just throw it away. Have seen too many people prove that it’s junk. I am getting ready to switch from the orange bottled stihl to echo red armor. Curious to pull a muffler and do a before and after of deposits on both my saws after they’ve had a gallon of gas each

[@Slane583]

I don't know how much ECHO Red Armor goes for as I can't find it in my area, I use AMSOIL so it doesn't matter anyway. But Richard Flagg did a test with the VP Racing oil and it burned clean with good lubrication at 40:1. The large bottle usually goes for $10 and mixes about 5 gallons of gas. It's affordable and good in a pinch if you can't get your hands on your favorite oil. :)

[@aaronneher4860]

@@Slane583 I’d use amsoil in a second if it’s all I had. I really wouldn’t hesitate to use anything. Like I said, I’ve been using the orange bottle stihl oil for years and it’s what my dad uses. Probably 15 years of using that stuff and neither one of us has had a failure. Just a clogged spark arrestor

[@Slane583]

@@aaronneher4860 From what I've seen from others the stuff in the orange bottle is actually good. Supposedly it is actually manufacture by Castrol. I don't know if it still is though. I mainly started using AMSOIL Saber back in 2015 when I first bought my saw as a suggestion. When I gave it a try I liked it ever since. Sadly the one store in my town I bought my first bottle from no longer sells it. I've been on a hunt for something just as good ever since that is easier to go ahold of. Luckily we have small family owned feed stores around here that also have a small stock of snowmobiling products and they happen to carry AMSOIL Interceptor. I bought a bottle of Interceptor and Dominator last summer to give a try. Sadly I haven't gotten around to doing any cutting. It was just pissing down rain all summer.

[@iffykidmn8170]

@@aaronneher4860 I purchased the Husqvarna premix fuel for the longer warranty of just purchaseing their oil! warranty only states must be purchased at time of purchase never says anything about having to actually use it.

[@dubbssawshop]

Castor 927,Klotz SuperTechniPlate, Red Armour, and VP are my go to oils. But anything but Stihl brand is good with me. Never seen any good from Stihl oil.

[@chrisrieger9201]

Been using red armor 2 yrs works great. Used redmax works good too but more carbon. Used amsoil saber and failed on redmax trimmer. Yes I would the right ratio. Tried again on a used trimmer and it failed also. No more amsoil saber. Curious on the Honda hp2 or the bel ray

[@frankmoynagh7423]

I've used 40.1 comma 2 stroke and a dash of citronella oil.in my old 181 husky result no biting mosquitoes .

[@daniellang6112]

Red armor or Amsoil Sabre

[@Ecthelion_2nd]

I do completely agree on the subject of the worst oil. That being said, does anyone know why? I’ve seen a lot of videos on WHAT it does but never a comprehensive reason why it does it.

[@djreag8614]

Is Synthetic 2 stroke oil ok to use in my weed trimmer ?

[@darrylcurley6200]

You guys can use certain two-cycle oils but the main key problem to two cycle engines is carbon build up in the exhaust and to combat this and some people call it a Band-Aid but I call it preventive carbon buildup and that is Seafoam 1 oz per gallon or Lucas motor treatment will keep any two stroke oil for causing carbon build up and you can run it low RPM or run hard at high RPM most people say to keep the to keep the carbon from building up but if you run either those additives you can run your engine however you see fit how you need to run it even at low RPM usage carbon won't build up because the chemical prevents it from building up on the cylinder head or upper crown and exhaust ports that being said problem solve. But keep this in mind without using those two additives to mix into your gas and more oil you mixed into your gas more carbon will build up

[@eltonpham2165]

Can you do a video on what octane gas is best to use as well? I’ve always used 87 octane with ethanol shield, sea foam and never has any issues.

[@minitruckinaintdead7142]

Man iv run Lucas for ever and never had issues from dirt bikes to my saws

[@darrenwilson7688]

I've been using cheap 2cycle oil and regular gas for years even decades now but I drain the tanks and run till dry.

[@Phoenixrepairs]

Just found you’re channel, Lol fuck I like this guy. Straight to the point, about time.

[@BC12valve]

Don't use marine 2 stroke, it's not meant for chainsaws, weed eaters, etc.

[@scott5803]

I use HP2. Smells nice, kinda evergreenie.

[@JohnDoe-ud2cc]

The best oil for it’s cost is Lucas. The best oil period is saber.

[@nseric1233]

I run lucas in ported saws and they dont show any wear or carbon. I know saber or dominator is better but the lucas is good enough and quite a bit cheaper.

[@davidwyby]

….aaaand all same said porters also only guarantee their ported saws at 32:1. 🤔

[@AnthemBassMan]

I use either Amsoil Saber or Echo Red Armor mixed at 40:1 with ethanol free fuel. But I prefer the Saber because I can buy a quart of Saber for the same price as a pint bottle of Red Armor. I’m an occasional saw user, but I run this same mix in my three vintage/antique Lawn-Boys, my trimmers, leaf blower, and even my snow blower if and when it’s needed.

[@MrGreenjubas]

Amsoil Saber is mixed at a ratio of 100:1 and provides sufficient lubrication, Red Armor is 50:1. What's the point of pouring such a large amount of oil? This excess amount of oil will not improve the condition of the piston group.

[@AnthemBassMan]

@@MrGreenjubas. Because I mow with three vintage/antique Lawn-Boys and I have an email directly from Amsoil stating that they don’t recommend going any leaner than a 50:1 mix ratio in them. So I mix at 40:1 and use it in everything I own. Plus Amsoil also states that it can be mixed at manufacturers recommended ratio. I’m not worried about saving a few dollars in the long run, but I definitely want to keep my 46 and 49 year old Lawn-Boys running for a long time.

[@twocyclesmoke]

Slightly oil heavy is always better. I bought some NOS recently… Shindaiwa T2500, Tanaka Tbc255pf, Tbl7800 & Redmax Bc2600. 1995-2008… I have 4 Toro tv5002 mowers with Suzuki engines & 2 Snappers with Robin 2 cycle engines. Most parts are NLA… Vp 101 race fuel mixed at 20:1 & 40:1. Older power tools get more Vp, Saber or Red Armor oil. The built to last era is long gone…

[@AnthemBassMan]

@@twocyclesmokeNice mowers! My machines are green, but I love the old Snapper Hi-Vacs with either the Wisconsin or Tecumseh TV-XL840 engines on them. And those Suzukis are beasts too.

[@waholoopesorry74]

@@AnthemBassManI’m pretty new to all this and heard something I have never heard before… mixed in a mower? How does that work? Maybe because it’s vintage it doesn’t have a separate oil sump? Please educate me!

[@RhythmicEye]

What octane fuel do you recommend for chainsaws? I've seen some people saying 91 is what they use.

[@RhythmicEye]

Never mind, you just answered my question 2 years before I asked it ;-} Nice work!

[@brucearney9536]

I get oil by the gallon and mixing at 32 to 1 is so easy , all even oncuces no 3.2 no3.6 just nice and easy 3.0 4.0 ect. Works for me . 👍

[@brucelewis1017]

You ever tried opti 2 2 cycle oil in any of you're saws and weed wackers

[@shakdidagalimal]

I used to get no smoke two stroke locally for under a buck. It was great, no smoke. Everything is kind of like it now, very little to no smoke. Anyway I settled on red armor because of the utter trash 5 10 15 dollar saws I have acquired. I splurged yesterday and spent 20 bucks on a 42 cc name brand. It's gettin' red armor.

[@terrycalvert7812]

Hell I buy the 6 pack of stihl oil to get the extended warranty when I buy my stihl saws and I take it home and give it to my neighbor who swares by stihl oil but he’s also always bringing me his shit to work on every spring when he needs to use his stuff meanwhile I put my stuff away with a full tank of ethanol free gas and motul in the tank a cpl drops of stabil and they fire right back up in the spring like they were ran the day before!!

[@videocardzrule354]

It does smell good! I mix Honda HP2 in Stihl MotoMix, so I am converting Stihl MotoMix to 32:1 ratio, and it smells amazing. Stihl MotoMix is actually distilled and converted Alkylated fuel, so it doesn’t stink like gas. It is odorless and sulfur free fuel. Not all canned fuels are Alkylate distilled fuel. You can run the saw all day and your clothes smells like nothing. 😂

[@waholoopesorry74]

I’m bad with math… how much hp2 would I have to add to motomix to make it 32:1?

[@danbelden7354]

I love the red armor and it works and keeps carbon down.

[@starlightHT]

For anyone using a Husqvarna XP, I have something new, the XP, it's the Castrol Power 1 Racing 2T. Instead of paying 30 euros per liter I paid 12 euros for power 1 racing.. Husqy is a bit greedy.

[@gyulaiarpad]

Yes same SDS value.

[@starlightHT]

@@gyulaiarpad It has the same relative density 15ºC 0.86, viscosity 100 ºC 7.5, flash point 88/89ºC and viscosity at 40ºC 42/43... Everything is within the margins of error in the two independent tests carried out on XP and compared with the technical sheet Castrol Power 1 racing

[@mcroitalot]

I think it is more likely that they are not the same. Several oil products can have virtually the same physical properties but formulation can be something else as well as performance in a real application can turn out to be different too. I'm not bashing any of those two oils. I in fact use the castrol among others. If someone have proof that Power 1 Racing 2T is exactly the same as Husky oil except for different dye, for sure we would like to see it. But no matter what, I would not go out and choose Husky oil at a premium, if I can get the castrol, or motul 710, 800, mobil-1 racing 2T (yes we still can get it in europe). BTW, castrol is now replacing Power 1 Racing 2T with Power 1 Ultimate 2T (at least in central europe). Maybe just name change, maybe they have changed the formula. I haven't noticed any obvious difference in the datasheets.

[@grantrobbins4921]

It's usually not the oil it's usually what gas you buy

[@grizz2702]

Since I've switched to using husky or stihl 2 cycle oil i haven't burned up a chaiinsaw or sweed eater ...but all i cut is 12 cord a year and afew logs for my little sawmill....i will never again run those others you are recomending ....i would rather use sae30

[@novicelumberjack]

I think you may have misunderstood the video. I was not recommending the cheap stuff. I very clearly recommended Red Armor. However, the point that I was trying to make is that non of it will cause harm to your saw, and if you are just a casual user... don't worry about it so much. It all will get the job done for you. Also... you stated that "Since I've switched to using husky or stihl 2 cycle oil i haven't burned up a chainsaw or sweed eater"... Based on that statement, I gotta say, it sounds like you have burnt up a few machines. With only 12 cord a year... your saws should last a lifetime, even with cheap oil. Are you open to the idea that perhaps you aren't doing something right? I have only ever burnt up two saws. One was very clearly my fault because I tuned it too lean, and the other I very purposefully ran it extremely hard to see how well the stihl oil protected it. Under normal use and with a good tune... you should not be burning up your saws.

[@REDLINERUNNER]

I use Castrol POWER1 RACING 2T!! Mix it 4,9L of fuel and 100mL of oil and it's perfect mix!!

[@propushsport6561]

What about the revs! Tha's where the oli goes wrong. I use racing oil. 747 Gastrol.

[@guymcelwee3489]

Optimal or Optimul one name or the other comes in packages too.

[@ct1762]

i'm not sure i'd show a bottle of water cooled TCW3 outboard oil and suggest you run it in an air cooled motor, but thats just me.

[@davidwyby]

Every porter or repair guy I've ever talked to or read who tears saws down says the same about Stihl oil.

[@novicelumberjack]

Same here. When I first heard the stories, I had severe doubts. Then I saw it. Yep, it is absurd. I used up my stock of that crap burning a stump.

[@jonsworld5307]

as a small engine mechanic Stihl oil 100% clogs exhaust it also cant be mixed with cheap gas hads to be 89 or higher

[@jeffb7255]

It does matter when you run a high rev motor like Stihl bg600 blower. You will burn up the beating on the crank with cheap oil I’ve done it.

[@bdixon2668]

A 600 will burn a bearing up with a sump full of oil..Stihl has replaced a fuk ton of them under warranty..

[@niconine268]

Ok. I am an amateur. I'll most def avoid that still crap but does that mean the Castrol Go 2t is also crap ? I'd like to know for my dirtbike. I'm not in the US or Canada

[@novicelumberjack]

I wouldn't trust it.

[@larrywarner9314]

There's a couple oils I use , Husqvarna oil and Stihl oil isn't one of them! Castor 927 , K2 , klotz is my #1 go to premix oil

[@leroybrown3761]

Vp 2 stroke oil at 40:1 is perfect in my ms290 anything more or less the saw runs hotter from my testing.