The Truth About Diesel Heaters - Carbon Monoxide, Formaldehyde & TVOC !

[@gpo746]

I used exhaust paste on mine and 0% CO .... its how well you seal the system . I have a top of the range home CO detector and alarm right next to the heater ....never had a problem . The exhaust needed to be jiggled to break the exhaust paste up when I upgraded to a bigger unit .

[@loweredexpectations4927]

It certainly doesn't hurt to use a sealer on your exhaust. The exhaust outlet is slightly tapered, and the stainless tube seals up very tight even without a hose clamp. There isn't really any pressure, so very little chance of leakage. Adding an exhaust sealant is as they say "belt and suspenders" 👍 A CO detector should really be in any space where there is a combustion appliance or device. If something does go very wrong, you wake up to an annoying beep, instead of someone finding your body.... much better idea.

[@dannywilliams6643]

​@@loweredexpectations4927yeppers, go to bed and wake up dead. I'm going to install a carbon monoxide detector. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.

[@WandersonRC3]

Wasn’t expecting my expectations to be lowered this much. So happy that my heater came with an exhaust hose that was sealed and ran outside

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Touche. If you have missed the purpose of this video, it is to measure how toxic the exhaust gasses from the heater and truck are. It's difficult to measure the build up of gasses in your garage if you vent the exhaust outside. I found the results of these tests to be pretty shocking, in a few ways, and perhaps it generated some useful information. This test simulates a worst case scenario with all gasses being vented inside, and also shows that while it could be safe at times, it has the potential to get deadly with just a few changed variables.

[@allencrider]

​@@loweredexpectations4927 that's idiotic to exhaust into a building.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@allencrider It's only idiotic to those who don't understand the reason for making this video. Can you explain a better way to check the toxicity. I checked your channel and didn't see a video with a better method 🤔

[@allencrider]

@@loweredexpectations4927 do you think there are people out there who didn't know that burning fossil fuels produces pollution?

[@loweredexpectations4927]

​@@allencrider "Pollution" is a pretty vague word. Not all "pollution" is the same or dangerous to humans. If you watched the video, and have a basic grasp on reality, you would have seen that burning the fuel with the heater working properly, I could have vented the exhaust inside for days, and it wouldn't hurt me in the least .... Pollution, yes, harmful. Not at those levels. While venting the exhaust inside was not producing any dangerous levels of "pollution" TVOC, CO, CO2 or HCHO, a slight change in tuning or heater operation could make it deadly in minutes. I think this is a pretty important bit of information.

[@oojimmyflip]

if you whistle a single tone when yuou feed the cat you can train him to come in when you whistle that tone, we trained ours like that and he never spent any cold nights outside in the winter.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Hmmmmm. Interesting. I may have to give that a try.

[@tilly8297]

Works well with chickens, goats, pigs and other farm critters ... It's how we've always bribed them back to where they should be

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@tilly8297 I love how this has become about cats and chickens ... ✌✌

[@tilly8297]

@@loweredexpectations4927 ... And vevor... Don't forget the one that brought us all to this party. Lol .. seriously tho, I really do like your channel... Your humor, the content, exploring options and possibilities... See, there you go getting expectations up again... Gotta stop that. Sheesh. (And the garage... My friends I've shared with, I'll mention lowered expectations and they'll say something like "the garje guy".... Yep! That's the one!)

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@tilly8297 HAHAHA ! That's right ... we have Vevor to thank for this all.... I'm 1-2% responsible. Test results may vary... my tests were done in a garje ...

[@Da9eI]

A video from BigClive made me aware that many of this type of co2/tvoc detectors are fake. They only measure tvoc and "calculate" the other values. I bought one as well because I also have a diesel heater, but mine was fake.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks for the comment. I'm wondering what you mean exactly by "fake" and how this conclusion was come to? Genuinely wondering as fake could mean different things. Does it mean that they didn't work at all, they assumed data from measuring things other than what they claim to be measuring, it could mean that they collect data at wide split points and fill in the gaps with an algorithm or they are a copy of something else. I obviously don't have access to laboratory equipment, but I tested my equipment by repeatedly exposing it to a fresh air environment and then areas I reasonably assume had certain elements / compounds, and watched for the testers to react. From what I can tell, my testers work well.

[@examplerkey]

Your perseverance and friendly approach makes you the no.1 guy on youtube when it comes to these diesel heaters. You make mistakes so we don't need to. For that I can't thank you enough. I have a request. Now we know from your video that if the combustion happens properly, there is none or hardly any CO, CO2 coming out from the exhaust. How about recovering the exhaust heat via a BPHE block (Brazed Plate Heat Exchanger) in a barrel or bucket of water? According to my calculation using the "omnicalculator water heating calculator" (on the web), it could heat 10C to 40C of 60L of water in 4:30h and 100L of water in 7:15h respectively (80% efficiency). For the sake of experiment, you can use just one channel of it, exhaust in, exhaust out set up. Just dip the whole block inside a 60-100L barrel or bucket of water. Leave the other channel totally submerged in water or use a pump to circulate water if you want, but not necessarily I think. Let the convection work itself. You can also set it up side way like the heat exchanger in a hot water storage tank but it will require drilling holes and fitting the pipes via bulkhead tank couplings. Now finally if the exhaust is safe enough, provided everything goes right, use 10 bleeping CO meters 😅if in doubt, I assume it would be safe to pipe it into the house chimney. Lastly, people talk about condensation but I looked it up, 1L of diesel has only 0.05g of water, so literally nothing. The exhaust heat can evaporate it in no time. The condensation from the atmosphere at the exhaust opening is what people talk about I guess. So, as long as that is not going back into the exhaust it is safe to install it in whatever direction.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks for the in depth comment. I'm not perfect, that's for sure. I like messing around with things and I'm not afraid of making mistakes, if I can learn from them. I plan on doing either a exhaust heat capture or complete unit heat capture to see just how efficient I can make it. The closer you get to 90% 99% ... the harder it is to capture the remaining energy.... It should be really easy to get a few more percent... I wouldn't suggest venting your exhaust indoors regardless of how clean it is... the possibility of it one day going very wring are much too high. A bad fuel pump, a controller glitch, mouse nesting in the air passage... That's all it takes. There's no good reason that you can't capture enough heat that it is only room temp escaping out the exhaust. At that point you are very efficient.

[@werner.x]

No, i was talking about the water that's generated during combustion. It's a lot of water on LPG, a bit less on gasoline, and not so much burning Diesel fuel, but it nonetheless in neither case can be neglected, because it will inevitably drown your exhaust line at the deepest point after condensation temperature level. Unless you make an water outlet there, of course. But then there still is no draught left for your upward pointed chimney to work, exhaust gasses will fall down and escape through the maintenance door at the bottom. Try it out, if you want, works every time - nobody can escape physics. I would have done so - and billions others too, for sure - if possible. It's not just in my head, i tried a lot, you know.

[@examplerkey]

@@loweredexpectations4927 Thanks a lot for your warning about the chimney. It makes sense. Cross air flow will bring some of it back down and even if I seal the exhaust-to-chimney coupling point, some exhaust fumes will still sit inside the chimney and become stagnant presenting an ever danger if something goes wrong. Ok, I'll settle with a hole in the wall. 😅 The amount of heat coming out from the exhaust ranges from 500-700W, I heard. If you can capture 80% of it with a plate heat exchanger with 3/4" threaded openings, you can get a 40C free bath every 5-7h which I think is worth it in every sense.

[@examplerkey]

@@werner.x Thanks a lot. I won't shove it up the chimney, if so. I'll settle with a hole in the wall. Just avoiding not to drill a hole in the wall, that's all, because I already have a few holes to outside like chimney, kitchen extractor, ceiling ventilation ducts and a few sewer pipes (boss joints). I watched a video where a guy has installed a diesel heater in the middle on the floor of a 24 foot container and his exhaust goes up two meters to the roof then branches out at least 5m each way before finally come outside. In total that's 12-13m of copper pipes! Obviously, lots of condensation at the exhaust openings! Have a look at the heat recovery videos from these channels: Nat Dizon, Jaspinder Dhillon.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@examplerkey Absolutely... Otherwise you are throwing away 500-700W.... and with the cost of fuel... that's not idea.

[@reubenk7331]

Very good points! I am glad you did the vehicle when it was cold, vs hot. I don't think people realize just how awful initial start emissions and pollution are. Hence why we have completely different start up tunning and numerous different emissions control systems that run at start up.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

For sure... until that CAT gets hot, the CO (and TVOC) is insane...

[@reubenk7331]

@@loweredexpectations4927 For sure!

[@Bauerofficial]

really informative, thanks for taking the time to conduct these tests. I'm also constantly paranoid about my co alarm's functionality.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks for the comment. Now you know... in order to test it, all you have to do is start your cold vehicle around it, haha.

[@stevenlarratt3638]

I have an alarm each month to stick mine near an exhaust and test my fire alarms...

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@stevenlarratt3638 That's a good idea. The one in my house has a test button... but I'm not sure what it actually does.

[@asbestosfiber]

Some people have a bad sense of smell, plus there is "olfactory fatigue" you loose your ability to smell something after a bit. so counting on a sense of smell is a bad idea.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

This is true, however, the human nose also has the incredible ability to smell as little as one part per million of gasoline, and very low levels of many chemicals. I have experienced exactly what you are talking about... when working in a garage all day, you notice the smells when you arrive, but they soon fade into the background. I work for myself and have for the past 9 years. A big part of the reason for that is I was sick of being exposed to chemicals and feeling like I had no choice. My day job now involves working outdoors, so my exposure is way lower.

[@flybobbie1449]

Keep in mind theses are cab heater, designed so that the combustion inlet and exhaust are outside the cab. Any other set up has to be carefully constructed and monitored.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Yes, this is true. What really matters is the inlet is not restricted. It can be restricted by something blocking the inlet, but also if air can't get into the area you are heating, and you are pushing exhaust outside, that will cause a low pressure. The reason why this is important in the cab of a vehicle, and not so much in your shed or garage, is that the HVAC on your vehicle is sealed pretty well, and depending on the setting you choose, you can cause low or high pressures in the cab of your vehicle.

[@flybobbie1449]

@@loweredexpectations4927 All vehicles though have stale air outlet somewhere near the rear, make sure you don't put exhaust near that on vehicle.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@flybobbie1449 Yes, and it always has rubber flaps on it that do not allow air in easily. Still not a good idea to vent close to this area. I believe the air in location is generally along the tray by the bottom of the windshield.

[@robb1chan9]

Great video! and nice results shows they can run clean when setup well but your point about "something changing" unexpectedly is absolutely valid

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks ! Yes, that's pretty important. It's not necessarily about what it is putting out, but what it could put out. You get a mouse that decides your inlet is a good place to store seeds, and you have a potentially deadly situation.

[@dptp9lf]

I have a newer vevor. I live in Calgary(springbank) which is pretty high at approx. 3300. with mine i push the OK and settings buttons to switch it into Alpine mode and it really makes a difference. I also use it at lower altitudes in central states but still use it in alpine mode and it still works great. It does smoke a little in Calgary without alpine mode.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

I'm in Dover, at about 3500 ft. I generally run my old heater (5kw) in "normal" mode and it runs a little hot 208- 210, but it throttles back (cuts fuel in half) if it reaches 210. I have checked the CO levels in normal mode, and it seems reasonable, no more than 30 ppm, but I think that is largely due to the fact that it automatically throttles back. I haven't had shooting issues with diesel. It runs about 185C when running in the Alpine mode.

[@mightyfinejonboy]

tried my heater like you when i first got one and also when it was playing up, no reading on the co alarm, but went beserk when i ran a genny outside and the exhaust was caught by the wind into the garage. so like those diesel/paraffin indoor space heaters, clean burning but better to be safe!!

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Yes... the differance between a clean burn and deadly burn is only a small adjustment or error away from one and other. You really want to make sure they are vented for the worst case scenario.

[@holysirsalad]

Small generators are frighteningly bad! They've killed people before in a similar manner - left running beside a door or window, sleeping people don't notice the exhaust being blown inside the house overnight. Some new ones ship with built-in CO shutdown mechanisms but they only work if the device itself is bathing in its own fumes.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@holysirsalad For sure... Utility engines are terrible for emissions, including CO.

[@holysirsalad]

@@loweredexpectations4927 Frustrating that FI is so uncommon in an age where a child could build an ECU from an Arduino or Raspberry Pi... Wouldn't be perfect but would be a huge improvement Champion even makes a FI generator, it's not that much more expensive, but it's not even sold in Canada!

[@benjamin2339]

Good video it confirms what i thought after using diesel heaters and kerosene heaters for a few years

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Yes... they absolutely CAN be dangerous, and you should take preventative measures to ensure you are protected in those cases... but when working correctly, they are very clean.

[@asbestomolesto]

Well tbh a normal gas stove or a gas kitchen (very common here in Italy, IDK there) are way more worse in term of CO emissions, and they're normally used every day... :)

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Yes... in many cases, it's simply about getting rid of the gasses safely. We use a lot of natural gas here for heating and hot water heaters. They need to be vented properly.

[@tomasviane3844]

I had the same smell when I used my heater for the first time. I thought it was because of some kind of grease they use to keep the heater from rusting (while they store it). They do the same with many new tools, they grease it up a bit. Or it could be the duct that blows the hot air. Anyway, after a few uses, the smell went away.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks for the comment. I have had a few people comment about this. Cheers.

[@jamesmason7124]

Good video sir but i did want to point out something, Co gas colects down low and not 3 feet in the air, like on a work bench. That smell you was getting from the heater is caused by the release oil of the molds when it was made and will disappear after you run it for a while

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks for the comment. You are thinking of CO2. That is heavier than air. CO is slightly lighter and generally spreads evenly throughout a room. I did check at floor level, when checking at the heater exhaust itself, as well as up on a ladder. I probably should have made this more clear in my video. I had a few comments about this, so in the next video I made sure to clearly show myself doing this. Yes ! That totally makes sense. That's exactly what that smell is. Thanks.

[@chucknSC]

it was great of mother nature to not make CO heavier than air, otherwise all the co on earth would settle near earth and kill us all.

[@werner.x]

Impressive video! Well worth the watch time. One point - not related to the video work - we just cannot trust these number values, these cheap gas sensors are questionable. But what can we do? Reasonably not much more. More affordable than unquestionable scientific equipment would be an outdated professional 4 gasses engine exhaust tester for emission inspection. But getting & keeping them usable is expensive for a hobbyist too. It won't help much if you decide to just buy an old 4 gasses tester. You'd have to repair it, buy calibration gasses and run the procedure too - regularly.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks, Werner. Yes, this is true. Depending on these things 100% to keep you alive or healthy isn't a good idea. There are things that you can do to test them, other than having them actually calibrated. I actually worked at a place that did all sorts of calibrations of equipment, and calibrated scales and a few other devices like moisture testers for grain and hops. It was very strange. I worked at a "sour gas plant" Natural gas processing pant and we had to wear personal monitors. H2S and CO were major concerns. The regulations were very strict and the equipment was tested quite frequently. I was on site calibrating a truck scale, so not nearly as critical as what others were doing. To check many of these tools, you actually expose them to a known amount of a substance and make sure that they read correctly. While you and I can't do this at home, we can take a CO meter outside and check to see if it goes to 0 or close to 0, and then expose it to a poor environment and see how it reacts. Actual certified calibrations often cost several times what these tools cost, haha so that is not an option for the average person.

[@Mwwwwwwwwe]

Good job! Great to have real numbers rather than "because I say so" I've been using my heater unvented indoors using a carbon filter air purifier, CO monitor and class1 kerosene (ultra refined- no sulphur. A bit more expensive.) I bought a scooter catalytic converter for 20 bucks to avoid the VOCs. when I get the chance, I will install it. I will load the inlet side with activated carbon so while the heater starts up the carbon holds the vocs. Once the catalytic converter is hot enough, the vocs should evaporate from the carbon and get burnt by the converter....I hope😅

[@loweredexpectations4927]

I hope it's a good CO monitor and you're not sleeping in this area ? I love your creativity, but I wouldn't want to trust my life or health to this. Does the cost of venting inside outweigh the cost of the class 1 kerosene ? Curious 👍

[@Mwwwwwwwwe]

@loweredexpectations4927 🤣 yeah fair point I do have windows open a crack(also for humidity control) and 2 CO alarms. Also, only use the heater when awake/at home. I don't pipe it out because I'm in a rental and can't bash a hole through the wall. c1 kerosene is 25% more expensive than diesel or 1000000% cheaper than electric heating 🤪 but for me it's about less fumes/emissions/smells . Haven't compared heat output, but I believe the exhaust vents 300- 500 watts so may recoupe some extra expense

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@Mwwwwwwwwe Right on.... Very interesting. I've been trying to come up with a way to vent out my window... but I have a side opening window... side awning 🤷‍♂It would be really hard to have it seal.

[@fathergratwick]

vent it through the window opening very easy to buy the adapter for $20 and mount in a piece of wood mounted in the opening.@@Mwwwwwwwwe

[@trev8932]

Great video. Very informative and useful. I'm enjoying my diesel heater in my shed and have a couple ot videos too. I did stress on one about safety and certainly i hope that folks use common sense. Certainly its saving me money as I spend a lot of time in my shed.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks for the comment.... What is your thumbnail photo... it is the same as @ChippyOutdoors ... Common sense isn't so common anymore, as they say... It's good to know what the actual risks are and then take appropriate measures... It's also good to actually think things through, instead of just depending on someone else to make you safe. Kinda like the whole "give a man a fish and he'll eat for a day, teach a man to fish and he will eat for a lifetime." Teach a person how to think critically and they are less likely to get in trouble.

[@trev8932]

@@loweredexpectations4927 it's an old TV test card from the UK. Test card C

[@snapcrack55]

You asked..... The 1st 12 minutes could have probably been cut down into 1-2 minutes. Your voice is kinda loud. I appreciate that you are clear and annunciate your words, but you are probably the only video I turn down the volume on. I enjoy your CDH content and you and JohnMCk47 have the BEST information. SUBSCRIBED

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks for the comment and advice. I know you didn't ask for excuses, but I'll give some anyway. I always way, the work is easy, filming is difficult and editing is hell, haha. Trying to figure out what to use and what not to us is difficult at the best of times. I find I draw a wide audience. Many watch purely for entertainment, some are tinkerers and are more into the details, and others only want to know the details. I'm normally a very quiet person and don't talk clearly, or even in full sentences, most of the time. I'm probably compensating for that a little, but the main reason for my loud talking when talking directly to the camera, is that there is a lot of background noise. Mainly airplanes, but also a trainyard a few miles away, A major road less than a mile and local traffic. Even though my camera usually won't pick up the noise, it is VERY distracting to me, so I talk loud and fast enough so that I mask it and stay focused on what I'm actually trying to say. The 3 minute outro for the end of the video likely took me well over an hour to film. I normally struggle, so the fact that I pointed out "this talking to the camera is difficult" probably means it was worse than usual 😂 Thanks again for your comment and support.

[@herdbrian6662]

I’d be interested in seeing the oxygen content of the room during this test.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

That is a good question.

[@Happy3dprinting]

Any device that consumes fuel will produce compounds that are harmful to your health, whenever you have a gas fire, internal combustion engine or even a log burner can kill you if not provided with proper ventilation for air intake and exhaust. As always safety first 👍

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks for the comment ! I think that that is a .... live on the safe side rule of thumb, but from my understanding, carbon dioxide is produced when there is complete combustion and there is enough oxygen. This bonds 2 oxygen with one carbon. When there is not enough oxygen, you get only one bond and that produces CO. It seems like there is a lot of conflicting info, but this is the first thing a Google search produced. "Carbon monoxide is a chemical produced from the incomplete burning of natural gas or other products containing carbon. This includes motor vehicle exhaust, faulty heaters, fires, and factory emissions." Regardless of this, as I tried to make clear in the video, you need to make accommodations for when things go wring. You don't vent your exhaust inside and hope that it only produces CO2 ... and you don't wake up dead.

[@Happy3dprinting]

@@loweredexpectations4927 that is semi correct, there is never complete combustion, 100% efficiency never exists so CO2 and CO are typically produced in most systems. The efficiency of the system dictates the relative amounts produced, so by measuring the co2 and co from an exhaust helps tune that system to ensure as clean a burn as possible. Every breath you exhale produces co2 and the air around you is composed of a multitude of gaseous compounds, all can be deadly in certain amounts and under certain conditions. Only thing we can do is ensure that we are not poisoning ourselves while we trying to do something, that includes keeping warm 🙂

[@donnied6759]

"So you dont wake up Dead" 😅😂😮​@@loweredexpectations4927

[@donnied6759]

Sorry for the bad quote but simliar to what you wrote 😅

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@Happy3dprinting Yes, this is true. Even with an excess of oxygen, a complete burn is never a thing. I didn't consider this at the time, but I have worked for a few weeks on a new building build, where they used a giant diesel heater .... one that kinda looks like a jet engine ... We worked 12 hour days for about 2 weeks. I think they foolishly depended on the heaters functioning properly and didn't actually have any CO detectors. I was working on a scissor lift and the fumes sometimes got annoying.. but I didn't get any CO poisoning symptoms.

[@jaybillyjosh]

glad you said that as mine has that rubbery smell aswell prob 8-10 hrs use from new

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Yeah.... I forgot to mention it in previous videos, and I have had 3 heaters that did the same thing now... It goes away after some hard use. I took my first heater completely apart and inspected every bit to make sure it was ok... put it back together and it did the same thing for probably 24h of use.

[@werner.x]

@@loweredexpectations4927 That is, why i preferred the aluminium housing. But it seems, they phased out this production line during lockdowns.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@werner.x Yes... aluminum doesn't off gas at these temperatures. I have to assume that is what's happening. It doesn't seem to make the HCHO or TVOC spike, but I'm not going to breath it in anyway.

[@patricklockerby4308]

Automatic air density compensation is ideal. Manual altitude compensation does not account for what is called 'density altitude'. Density altitude is a measure of air pressure as modified by both air temperature and real altitude. At any given altitude the air density varies with air temperature. Pilots know about this - or at least they should.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Yeah... this is pretty important as a pilot, in more than one way. Manual compensation is more or less of a guess unless you have the ability to monitor your results and adjust accordingly. You don't see many carbureted engines driving around on the roads these days, haha... that's because automatic compensation is far superior (EFI)

[@user-ri8fn6sz7z]

Your content is very good. I would really like you to do a video on vintage kerosene heaters. I bet you could find a good used one in the Calgary area. You will love it!

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks... Did you suggest this yesterday... or is this the second suggestion in two days... Hmmm.

[@user-ri8fn6sz7z]

@@loweredexpectations4927 sorry...yes I did. Lol. I just really liked this particular video so I thought I would reiterate. Interesting thing about vintage kero heaters is the burn with zero CO (as long as the wick is clean). I just fired up a vintage 70s Coleman catalytic camping heater and it emits a considerable amount of CO. But my Perfection from 1912 emits zero.

[@OverlandOne]

Excellent testing. You probably saved a few lives. Sadly, most people never give this much thought.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks for the comment. Sometimes a video like this is all that is required to open someone's eyes.

[@dustinwild]

That is crazy how bad your truck filled your garage. Will definitely be a lot more careful running vehicles in my garage! Wonder how bad the X2 is in there? You've blasted that quite a few times.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

LOL... one of my first thoughts was about the X2 .... Like... maybe I can use this to tune it, haha. I'm sure the X2 produces a LOT of TVOC ... you can see them in the air, haha. As for CO.... I guess that depends how well it's tuned.

[@flybobbie1449]

I fitted CO monitors in aircraft, interestingly one went off with a fuel avgas leak from a pipe in the cockpit.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

That is interesting. This sort of indicates that the sensor is perhaps measuring something else and using that data to infer CO ?

[@CRYMEARIVER-S4]

When im making my omletts, i find it can be a real finite thing when it comes to flipping them over. I feel like i always scew them up and rip them a little. It's very rare that i can get an omlette to look good. I guess ill just try to stay positive and keep trying. At some point, I hope to be able to cook a good breakfast.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Eggs, pancakes, a stale relationship... You can never be 100% sure when it's time to rustle things up and flip them upside down.

[@werner.x]

If you fail every time, it's the form of the pan rim. The angle and form has to be just right for a perfect flip.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@werner.x You're a wise man !

[@curtdunlap6818]

My heater (app) registers anywhere from 200-500m and never leaves the garage! I believe millibars would be more appropriate.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Yes, I have seen mine go up and down a hundred meters or so parked in front of my house. Doesn't really matter, as long as it changes the fueling at some point. It would be nice if it were dead accurate, however, for me it's peace of mind knowing that the ECU is receiving some sort of input. If they posted the reading as millibar, then they would have to try to explain to most customers why they do this.... and most wouldn't understand, haha.

[@alanweisner2421]

Another fun video with informative content..Keep sending it ! 👌

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks for the comment! Will do! ✌

[@lchimenz]

Absolutely appreciate your content.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks for your comment. I appreciate it !

[@DryUrEyesM8]

Electronic Test Tech here. The funny u symbol is micro. 1 micro volt is 1e-6 volts. Probably same for moles.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks... Even after figuring that out in the past... it throws me off because it's like a "U" so I think "ultra" ...

[@DryUrEyesM8]

same@@loweredexpectations4927

[@fathergratwick]

I notice you have the heater lying on its side? I have always thought it mattered and they needed to be mounted with the intake and exhaust coming in from the bottom. I could be wrong but its odd that they all are mounted that way in enclosures if it doesnt matter. also it should go without saying but these are meant to have the exhaust vented outdoors. Running indoors would be no different than running a generator indoors. EDIT did some quick research and from what ive just read you do need to have the the glow plug facing up for it to run correctly so it can be mounted on one of its sides and still accomplish this The length of the intake and exhaust hoses also effect how clean the burn is.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

I talked about this briefly in the video where I "installed" it.... These heaters have what some call a flame initiation hole that allows air into the glow plug area. Fuel is delivered close to this hole. This isn't my first rodeo, as they say... I have thousands of hours of messing with these things, haha. The heater should be installed with the exhaust and inlet pointing down, but they will run fine as long as the flame initiation hole is pointing up. If it is down, the fuel will run out, make a nasty mess and dangerous fumes, in some cases. The idea of this video was to test the emissions from the heater. Running the exhaust outside would have made this test pointless, but yes... the exhaust should always be run outside. If you have watched the video, then you should have seen, based on the actual testing, that this is not bad, when running properly. My guess, as a small engine mechanic, is that the exhaust from a gas generator would be MUCH worse, unless it was a fancy fuel injected unit. Any carbureted utility engine would be deadly in very little time, and this heater, when tuned properly, is actually very safe.

[@fathergratwick]

Fair enough but its only designed to be safe if used correctly which means the exhaust exhausted outside. Im sure you know this and likely did it for views but the title of this video kinda misleads everyone into thinking these heaters are dangerous when is fact they are only as dangerous as anything can be when improperly used.@@loweredexpectations4927

[@markcoyle8003]

I’d check high and low. Like head high…. Different gasses have different weights. You’ll be surprised at the difference in the readings.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Yes, this is true ... one of the things I learned about H2s ... I may not have shown it well in the video, but I did check at the highest point in my garage as well as down by the floor when checking at the exhaust of the heater.

[@trev8932]

Those cheap CO metres are inaccurate and potentially useless. Mine decides to over read if measuring 18 inches from the exhaust if you try and read for longer than 30 seconds, then they continue to read high in fresh air for sometimes 5 minutes.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

I have tested mine fairly thoroughly for about a year now and have found it to be quite reliable. I have heard many stories similar to yours, and this made me quite cautious. I also have two different brands that I check back to back to verify.

[@tullgutten]

The CM tool is probably like many other FAKE co2 sensors, just estimating it by using the tvoc sensor (eCo2 is it's actual name). A proper sensor will "always" say on the package that it is using an NDIR Co2 sensor

[@tullgutten]

And also turning off the on the testers again you should have it outside the first minute to let it self calibrate

[@loweredexpectations4927]

That may be the case. I have had a few people mention this... some of them very aggressively. I have CO2 and plan on testing this to see what happens. I don't have the packaging or manual here with me, but I will have a look. I'm Honestly not concerned about CO2 at all, and the only reason I kept this meter is for the TVOC ... I bought it thinking it could read CO.

[@pepperspray4144]

You are hilarious and accurate thanks

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks !

[@Den-ml7zg]

WOW, does anyone here realize that the exhaust should be routed out doors with a max 3m exhaust run? of course sooner or later you will get HVOCs, no way i would run one with exhaust vented inside, C02 meter or not.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

I'm not sure where the "max 3m exhaust" comment came from or who it is directed at ? I'm sure that is a good rule of thumb to avoid restriction issues and condensation build up. I would like to test for myself how much this matters, with a bit of tweaking. I clearly pointed out, more than once, in this video that the exhaust should not be vented inside. This was done to test the TVOC and CO output of the heater, by measuring the output in an enclosed space. Venting the exhaust outside for this test would not give us any useful data. Yes, you are correct. As I said in the video... Regardless of these results, this is still potentially very deadly and should be vented properly.

[@trev8932]

Yes I believe 3 meters is actually too long, the gasses are getting restricted on a long exhaust pipe so the air flow in the burner tube reduces and the mixture gets too rich, CO rises as does other noxious gasses and the heater will eventually soot up

[@tnargs57]

Diesel particulates are not tested here, and these heaters are not equipped with any of the expensive filters that would be effective, such as found in a modern diesel car.

[@eda7875]

My diesel heater running inside an insulated 385ft squarefeet shed. I started getting a headache and when I measured CO it was like 300ppm. I then removed the motherboard and controller and installed thr basic one you can tune. I decreased the fan RPM and increased the pump hz a bit and it went down to 20 ppm. Those heaters will absolutely produce large amounts of CO if not setup properly. I now keep the heater outside and run a duct through the window anyway.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

It is difficult to die from CO unless it is a place where you sleep... but always a good idea to vent your exhaust outside. Even if you have the heater tuned properly, as I tried to show in this video, a slight change, that you could be unaware of, can easily make the exhaust toxic.

[@WaffleStaffel]

Very informative!

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks !!

[@mnp3713]

how about the normal diesel heat cannon those dont even have a exhaust pipe.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

I have seen a few people test them on KZbin.... If you have them tuned correctly, they do not make dangerous levels of CO... They make me nervous, but I have worked for weeks with those as a heat source.

[@bellofiore894]

Very interesting video 👍

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks for the comment ! Glad you enjoyed it !

[@curtwuollet2912]

Yeah, the exhaust outside isn't a problem. Inside, it is. This thing is UL approved, but not idiot proof.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

I'm not sure if this is a follow up comment, or a fresh one.... Perhaps I misunderstand your comment, but the point of this video was to measure the toxicity of the heaters exhaust. Venging the exhaust outside would make testing the air in my garage pointless.

[@curtwuollet2912]

@@loweredexpectations4927 I'm sorry, my point is that any combustion of hydrocarbons produces some toxins. But properly vented, it's not a problem with a sealed combustion system. When it's properly installed and running right it's no more dangerous than your gas furnace.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@curtwuollet2912 Very true. My truck running outdoors also isn't a hazard to anyone (unless I'm driving 🤣) but in a confined space, becomes a serious issue ! I was quite shocked at how clean the exhaust on the heater was... it's not like theres any clever technology involved.

[@curtwuollet2912]

@@loweredexpectations4927 Well, there isn't any real whiz bang computing involved, but the original combustion engineering from Wabbasso is pretty impressive. It's certainly the most exotic oil burner around.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@curtwuollet2912 Yes, I totally agree... I thought afterwards that I should have included that here is plenty of clever engineering. Even in the knock off units, work well and very reliably, in general. The initial engineering on these units, packing everything into such a tidy package and making it all work in a safeway... pretty incredible. All I meant about hte "no clever tech" is that it's a open loop system. The ECU spins the fan and sends a pulse to the pump, and that's pretty much it. The only feedback is if the devices (pump, fan, glow plug) are still connected. All of the engineering needs to be pretty spot on to endure that it will work, as there is no correction system.

[@garyschultz253]

26:00 Where's the Cat ?

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Haha... Quasar wasn't hanging out for these tests ... He's been spending a lot of time in the house. Something spooked him recently and he has only been spending an hour or so outside each day now.

[@jameskenney5623]

What is a grr-add-j?

[@loweredexpectations4927]

You're going to give me a speech complex 🤣 ga-raj - gay-rage

[@mrmichaeltscott]

25 years sleeping with a diesel heater properly installed. Never had a alarm go off. This is spam.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Did you watch the video? I'm guessing you just read the title and made some incorrect assumptions. Yes, these heaters are awesome.

[@mrmichaeltscott]

@loweredexpectations4927 honestly I don't reward fake thumbnails.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@mrmichaeltscott I respect and support that. The way I looked at it. was that I was poking fun at what others have said. People are so terrified of CO without understanding it.

[@stickwallfarm]

@@loweredexpectations4927click bait , no matter how you try to spin it

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@stickwallfarm Perhaps I'm wrong about the definition of what "clickbait" is ... but this video is about / related to exactly what the thumbnail and title indicate... My video shows how these things CAN be dangerous and talks about the reality of the situation. If you can't be bothered to watch any of the video, you can't really call it clickbait. 11K people watched this video, and while plenty had criticisms, you are the only person to claim it was clickbait.

[@Trevorkloida]

3:06 for jetski content

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Haha... My X2 in the background ?

[@Trevorkloida]

Yes sir

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@Trevorkloida Poor old girl will get some love some day, haha.

[@FintaruS]

Is your truck a diesel truck?

[@loweredexpectations4927]

6L gasoline. I ran a diesel truck in my garage for a few minutes , with the doors open, last week, and it stank for 2-3 days afterwards.

[@octoma]

"we're not dangerously high on anything." Speak for yourself.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

HAHA... You know I was thinking that exact same thing...

[@SR-gt350]

You are doing a 👍 👌 👍 job!

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks !!

[@nate_d376]

So let me understand this, you kept the exhaust from escaping the enclosed garage, right (heater, not truck)? Ok, but I would think you would ALWAYS vent the exhaust OUTSIDE. Who keeps the exhaust IN? And more importantly, are you saying these diesel heaters are unsafe WHEN you vent the exhaust outside? Or, just don't use them when sleeping? Because, heating oil is used heavily to heat homes and I believe the technology is basically the same. (Please correct me if I'm wrong). Just trying to make sure I get this right, as I plan on using a couple of these to heat a tiny home in the future, and I may need to rethink these plans.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

I think perhaps you are confused and missed a few parts of the video. I tried to explain that I was testing and that no one should do this. Venting the exhaust outside, and testing the air quality in my garage would be completely pointless.... I'm not sure what you are picturing. Venting the gasses inside allows me to demonstrate the worst case scenario, with a proper working heater. I was demonstrating that these heaters are quite safe, by using it in a completely unsafe and unrealistic way. Buy a couple of these heaters, route your exhaust outdoors, away from any air inlets on your house and you will be fine. Make sure you exhaust is sealed / attached well and that you don't have anything flammable around the exhaust, as it gets very hot. Cheers.

[@werner.x]

He proved a point here by keeping the exhaust in. You don't have to do that 🤣 But get the part, where he made sure, that the flame initiation hole is not facing downward - in the wheelbarrow video. I didn't know of that, installed the heater wrong, got vaporized Diesel mixed into the heated air stream, couldn't smell that because of nose damage, poisened myself and lost one of my dogs. Take care and you'll have safe heating.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@werner.x ❤ Losing a pet like that will make you remember that forever. I always appreciate you sharing your wisdom, Werner.

[@nate_d376]

@loweredexpectations4927 thanks! I envision putting them in a separate compartment that is vented to the outside, and only running the intake and output into the tiny home. (Not the combustion intake). Kinda like a battery box/compartment. So I'm glad to hear your response, thanks again!

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@nate_d376 👍 That should work great for you. If you have any questions, feel free to ask and I will answer if I can. PS. The 5 and 8 KW units are the same. Both put out about 8kw, so get whatever one is a better price or has the controls that you want. Note that most if these units do not have a thermostat control where they power on and off and will only go to a lower setting when the desired temperature is reached. The Bluetooth heaters from Vevor do have a thermostat function, but they are selling out in many countries. You can upgrade your controller after the fact, but a good controller can sometimes cost as much as purchasing a new heater.

[@TheCritterWindow]

Your highest CO2 levels will be near the floor. Co2 is heaver than air.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Yes, I may not have explained or shown it well in the video, but I checked both high and low points in the garage while running the heater.

[@KJSav321]

Really? I truly did not expect there were people DUMB enough to think these things were made to be used INDOORS without having the exhaust EXITING the building. I clicked on the video expecting to see some evidence that noxious gases were somehow getting into the heated air mix, not that exhausts produce them! A whole video about what should be common sense. Just wow.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

While this is true, the video also shows that the condition of your heater is important. You should never vent your exhaust indoors, but you should also not just be okay with your exhaust having 800 ppm of CO and vent it outside.

[@McDIY]

33:03 👌👍✌

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Haha... you like that !

[@sailboatlacazadora6840]

Diesel heaters are very safe I have used one on my boat for years always vent the flexible tube outside . try to do less advertising .

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks for the comment. It's a good thing they are as safe as they are, because there are millions of them out there, and many people do not have them installed properly... Including myself. When you say "try to do less advertising" are you talking about KZbin ads on my videos, or me mentioning affiliate links, in my video ? I generally try to go through my videos after posting, and remove some of the ads, as KZbin places them automatically, and in inappropriate places. As for the affiliate mentions. I wouldn't be able to do these videos without free products from Vevor and a few dollars a month in commission. Mentioning their products is the only reason they keep sending me stuff 👍

[@RockymountainRobert]

Are you supposed to put your exhaust pipe outside and not underneath the wheel barrow 😅 people want a test with the exhaust going out, it's common sense.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Haha.... I think you're missing the point. You should 100% vent your exhaust outside, and I say that in this video, and demonstrate how dangerous this could be.... HOWEVER... if you want to test the dangers of your exhaust, you need to vent it into an enclosed space. If I vented it outside, that would tell me nothing. This test was to show a few things. One being that although these things run very very clean, you need to vent them properly, because changing one of many variables could make it deadly, very quickly.

[@kingwood207]

DO NOT TEST ANY FOSSIL FUEL IN AN ENCLOSED SPACE.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Why ? Maybe you know something I don't...

[@spirotagnw]

if you have cat clips in your video you should put *and cats* to increase your viewership :P

[@loweredexpectations4927]

LOL... I will give that a try.

[@cb2033x]

Those are amateur numbers, the new gas boilers/hot water heaters hit over 3000 ppm when they aren't set up right.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Yeah, haha... I honestly expected to see much higher. The truck maxed out around 230 ish in 10 minutes ... I'm sure the concentration at the tailpipe was much higher, but I figured the dispersed reading was more relevant.

[@Joe-hj6pg]

Anybody use a Canary still ? Lol

[@loweredexpectations4927]

They were phased out when Amazon decided to stop shipping them in bulk.... Used to be able to get 10 for $60 on Prime days, but that only lasts me a week. The meter cost $60 and I just have to feed it AAA batteries.

[@roberthenrydavis8304]

I enjoy your videos, but I wish you'd spend some time here in Texas and lose that wild accent. Geerage?

[@loweredexpectations4927]

LOL !!! You folks and your garage hate 🤣

[@TheSkeeve666]

How daft can you be? these heaters are meant to be externally vents as in OUTSIDE the area its been used (unlike your setup) , if its a vehicle its outside said vehicle, building/garage its meant to be vented outside. as it says in the instructions. these are basically a engine without a piston, it BURNS fuel, of cause it produces nasty substances. if you don't understand these basic things you should NEVER use anything like this. i use a 8kw diesel heater in my workshop, its exhaust is sent outside though a wall no were near a window or door to my workshop. I have no issues with it. FYI i believe in the uk they have banned some of these heaters as idiots ran them in enclosed spaces and killed themselves.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Come on dude... Your opening pick up line is "How daft can you be" and you think that's gonna work? Kidding. What I meant to say is.... That is your opening line yet you clearly either didn't watch or understand the video. I clearly state in this video that people should not do this, and that I am doing it for testing purposes... If I vented the gasses outside, what would be the point of measuring the air quality in my garage ? I believe a few KZbinrs have made videos hinting that these are banned in the UK because of CO deaths, to get a bunch of views. In particular one Josh who also claimed a little over a year ago that these were great for burning waste oil. Oddly no major news recourse reported on this "ban". I have two of these in vehicles, installed properly, and in in my garage that vents outside.... but that was not the point of this video.

[@mewhoelse3554]

Stupid question... are you venting the heater inside the space you're in?

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Not really a stupid question, though I thought the video made this obvious. Yes. For the purpose of collecting data, I vented the heater inside. Venting the heater outside would be a little pointless as I would not be able to collect accurate readings.

[@christopherhines2718]

yeah but you are burning your diesel heater with the exhaust firing inside of your building so what kind of test is that?of course the ppm will rise if you ensure the exhaust is not fractured and it is sealed so it cannot leak both ends there can be no problem the gasses go outside everybody knows that the germans before they invented the zyclon b gas to kill the jews they used baldly tuned diesel engines to gas the jews And the same thing applies to gas central heating systems everybody uses in their houses if the flu pipes going out are compromised you could also die another point to maybe be aware of as its not much different gas or diesel fuel heater is be careful where you put your flu pipe with a gas heater there are rule you have to find a place where you have a negative pressure so flu gasses are pushed away from the building and also not near windows as some people have a window slightly open for a little ventilation even with a heater on if you stick to the rules everything should be just fine i am into boats and i live on one and i never heard of anybody dying when they have the diesel heater on for 24hrs in the winter come to that you can also die from an open wood fire in a house if the chimney is not clean that happened years ago to a family in ireland all huddled up by the only heating in the house and they all died a family of 6

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks for the comment. The test would sort of be pointless if the exhaust was outside, as the gasses could not be monitored (easily) and this does not replicate the worst case scenario. In the worst case, all of your gasses are vented into your living space. This video, and these tests show that these heaters are very safe when used properly, and you have to have more than one serious problem before the CO will be a problem. It also shows that heater tuning / setup is important, and that a properly tuned heater will produce almost no CO. I have family friends who died in an RV with a improperly installed propane heater. A father and son on the first outing after building the RV. You never want to just accept that your exhaust is run outside and be okay with CO... you want to produce as little CO as possible and also vent outside.

[@christopherhines2718]

@@loweredexpectations4927 its well known about anything running propane wrong gas pressure or fault with burner yes thats ancient history a family of 6 died in ireland years a few years ago as often in old irish houses there is only one main wood burning fire it was a slightly blocked chimney and a hardwood that they were burning that emits lots of CO all fell asleep and did not wake up but as for the diesel heater yes if the exhaust is not correctly sealed you can have CO and it can kill you only there should be zero CO in the envoirement or at least no more than is in air naturaly every video i have does not take into account the location of the flue gasses going outside experience from fitting central heating boilers is flu exits in a place where there is negative air pressure outside not where pressure pushes back towards the building