The Truth About Riving Knives

#woodworking #DIY #tablesaw
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In this week’s video I will attempt to demystify Riving Knives. They are NOT one size fits all. It is very important to pay attention to the type of riving knife a manufacturer puts in a table saw and the factory blade that comes with it. If you think you’ll be able to swap blades easily, this video will be an eye opener for you. I compare my riving knife against three different blades, and run a kerf test to demonstrate how the riving knife will perform with each blade. The kerf test doesn’t lie. In this video I am only presenting the facts. What you do with your tools is your business.
DO NOT REMOVE YOUR RIVING KNIFE! USE A BLADE THAT IS DESIGNED TO WORK WITH YOUR TABLE SAW AND ALWAYS FOLLOW THE SAFETY GUIDE PROVIDED IN YOUR USER MANUAL.
DISCLAIMER: My videos are for entertainment purposes only. Do not attempt to do anything that is shown in my videos. Woodworking and Metal Working are very dangerous activities and should only be performed by trained professionals.
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[@johnletourneau3688]

In the event that you move to a thinner blade and can no longer use the factory riving knife, I would strongly suggest making an insert with an appropriately sized splitter. Easy to do and if you make it zero-clearance, you can further increase saw safety and reduce the amount of tear-out.

[@dallasherring1092]

Thank you for this very informative video. Just bought a Dewalt table top 10", tired of bugging my brother in law to use his table saw. The last time I had to assemble a table saw (change blades, etc ) was 30+ years ago. Had never even heard of a riving knife. They included riding knife width in instructions, but you probably saved me possible injury as I was going to buy a thinner, cleaner blade. Cannot thank you enough, great video!

[@EricSorensenCanada]

Thanks Dallas! Dewalt is a a good choice too👍

[@seanjackson3585]

Light bulb moment.... i have a Diablo blade and i could not figure out why my blade was binding. Now i know, thankyou

[@MrPJM22]

Never put two and two together on this. Very enlightening. Thank you! Probably saved me from some sort of disaster in the future.

[@gregoryfry2700]

Thanks for taking the time to break this down. I had made a blind assumption that rising knife=safe.

[@artofgontea-artist5718]

Solution :make multiple inserts with a hardwood integrated splitter for different blade accommodations

[@howardjohannssen4607]

Very helpful, just trying to tune up my dad’s old 1950’s Craftsman’s table saw without riving knife. Lots to think about, thank you.

[@jimwalther9540]

Good information. I had the same problem last fall. I upgraded from the Ridgid contractor saw to the hybrid. it took a few days to figure out why I couldn't even push a board more than 10 inches. Your video could save someone a real headache.

[@kentbrown3901]

I was having the same binding problem and couldn't figure it out. Thanks a ton for the riving knife video. God Bless!!

[@jimboh5131]

Thanks for the straight-forward explanation, Eric, and the reason to check our blades.

[@mhaz49]

Yep, encountered this and ended up making a set of riving knives for each insert plate/blade size. Now I get no binding and have almost perfect zero clearance for each blade I use. I switched to 7-1/4" blades a few years ago as I got better performance from my contractor saw. It is really under powered for the 10" blades, but gives beautiful cuts with 7-1/4" blades...plus a smaller kerf saving a bit of wood.

[@einzigkeit7216]

Agree!!

[@allenhess6583]

Thank You. I always appreciate an explanation that is clear and complete. I will be making a couple of riving knives for different blades. I still have all my fingers and don’t mind taking the time to work safely.

[@vulcanville]

When I had a Ridgid table saw I had the same experience and learned the same lesson. I too was using my Ridgid without a riving knife. My SawStop comes with full kerf blade but the riving knife is slender enough for most 10 inch blades. Somebody at Ridgid can't get past the idea that the riving knife has to match the factory blade.

[@EricSorensenCanada]

@Robert Wahl That's because Ridgid is also in the business of selling saw blades🙂 - Not unlike their vacuum bags.

[@sapelesteve]

Terrific video Eric! Great info for any woodworker to know, especially a beginner. Nice way to start the New Year with Safety First................ 👍👍

[@daveshort302]

Thank you for teaching me! I bought a used job site saw and I’m missing the diving knife, so now I know what to look for.

[@ianmib]

My contractor buddy gave me shit about not using the riving knife on the used Ridgid site saw I bought from him. He was using cheaper full kerf construction blades where I was using a higher end diablo fine tooth blade and the saw became unusable due to the binding on the blade and terrible burning. After some back and forth I pulled out the calipers and came to this same conclusion that the knife should not even be on there. This is a huge oversight by manufacturers if you ask me, it would be easy for them to provide a couple of knives with the saw to accommodate varying blade thicknesses. In fact, its difficult to find a full kerf 10" blade as the construction site table saws the box stores sell do not have enough HP to spin the larger/heavier blade well. First thing everyone does is toss the blade that came with the saw, may as well include a thin kerf diablo blade and appropriate riving knife and use it as an advertising/selling point. I have since'upgraded to a Ridgid TS3650 saw (used) and was missing the splitter and its no longer available from Ridgid (or busy bee who sell an identical Craftex saw), but perhaps this is a blessing as it likely would not have worked with my blades anyways and doesn't appear Ridgid knows what their customers actually need.

[@EricSorensenCanada]

It's not really an oversight. They want you to continue to buy their blades after the factory blade gets dull. The other thing you almost never need is a 10" blade in your table saw. I use a 7 1/4" diablo in my Ridgid table saw and it's more than enough blade for 95% of my work.

[@DustyFingersRC]

This is one of the most valuable videos I have watched. I also checked through all the comments and answers you provided. I now have all the answers needed. Thank you.

[@Kevinrichardsonministries]

Excellent Info My Friend... Thank You !!

[@waterbug1135]

I never considered this before. Thanks. Also when the knife is thicker than the kerf the binding wouldn't just be limited to the kerf I assume but the wood would also push against the fence. Guess I've been lucky so far and haven't run into this problem. If I did it would have taken me a long time to figure out I think...until now.

[@jason4547]

I had the same binding and kickback issues when I switched to the Freud Industrial 1/8" kerf blade... I only figured out what was going on when I attempted to check my Miter Gauge alignment with the blade and my engineer square was referencing off of the riving knife due to it being just proud of the blade.

[@nacho33ful]

Have a craftsman I picked up from an older gentleman and was wondering why it didn’t have the riving knife or any space to put one in. Thanks for the info, it was truly helpful.

[@navret1707]

Good points and good demo. Thanks.

[@hardrock1826]

When I got my 10 inch cabinet saw it came with a combination blade guard, riving knife assembly. Soon after, I changed the factory blade, that also came with the saw, to a much more expensive saw blade. I was having real difficulty passing through my wood as I was cutting it. It was like preventing me from passing the wood through the blade and it was worse if the wood stock was thicker. I totally removed the blade guard assembly and for years I have used the saw with no riving knife. I do use push sticks and I sort of keep to one side but I have had some close calls and hastily hit the stop button to avoid any serious mishap. I have looked around trying to locate a riving knife for my saw with no luck. Now I'm wondering if I can make one. I will be adding an over the blade dust collection hood, in the hopes of further reducing the dust in the shop. I would feel safer with a riving knife so I'm going to pursue that further. Thanks for highlighting this safety issue. When I started having this problem years ago, I thought it was something I was doing wrong not utilizing the blade guard properly.

[@richardcary5751]

Great explanation. Makes perfect sense!

[@rayc.1396]

Very interesting, Thank you! My 1975 Craftsman did not come with a riving knife, obviously. It has been an issue on a couple occasions but I have learned to keep a couple small wedges next to my saw to act as a riving knife when needed and I also use a long bodied push stick to hold down as much as possible.

[@EricSorensenCanada]

@Ray C Thanks! I mostly avoid ripping long boards but when I absolutely must do it, I reattach my factory blade and riving knife. 90% of the time I'm ripping boards under 3 feet in length using a 71/4 blade.

[@SKTWoodDesign]

thanks for this. very informative!

[@barryparks4689]

Many thanks. Useful information

[@douglassiemens4245]

Great info. Thanks.

[@rockytopwooddesigns1283]

Very interesting, thank you.

[@BillHartCooks.]

Thanks, Great information.

[@sed6]

My riving knife was attached to my blade guard and they both came off together, on day one, and have never gone back on. That was 10 years and a million board feet ago, your mileage may vary!

[@Worldofcarscape]

Thank you so much. I would have had no idea when switching my blade

[@L3o4u5]

Duh. Exactly the same experience here Eric. Thanks. You've confirmed what I thought but I really couldn't believe you'd have to get a new riving knife for every new (type of) blade. Amazingly true. I do always use the RK but only for solid, never for sheet material. Always follow your channel. I'm saving up for a T shirt, new designsn lookin good. Cheers

[@EricSorensenCanada]

@Louise Davies Thanks! If they just made them a bit thinner to start with, you could swap out blades whenever you want. Unfortunately, the manufacturers are also in the blade business....

[@RobertDNC]

Thanks, Eric for making this video one of the most valuable safety videos for woodworkers to understand the use of the riving knife. Thumbs up and I subscribed.

[@michaelfoxfoxster469]

Thanks man I too was having the same problem, now I know why.

[@michaelnorthup9162]

I was pleased to see the same saw I use in this video. I had an accident with a table saw nearly 30 years ago when a feed jam occurred. I pushed harder, slipped and spent the rest of the night having two fingers sewn back on. I have seen the videos on the correct depth of a blade being at the base of the gullet. I prefer, and feel safer, with only the tip of the blade above the wood. If there is any burn on the cut, sanding will fix it, and is preferable to a night in the operating room. My current saw has a riving knife that is sloppy and is jamming the feed of the wood. I know what I will be doing to my saw now.

[@EricSorensenCanada]

I actually just bought a new Dewalt 8-1/4" Compact table saw, which you will see in my first video of the New Year. I couldn't pass it up at $90 off the retail price (Holiday Sale). I'm selling the Ridgid. The Nice thing is, now I will have my riving knife again with the proper sized blade. I had the Ridgid for over ten years, so it was time.

[@stephenborchers1205]

Great insight on this video

[@PepperedGiraffe]

Thank you so much this explains everything

[@MrGeroth]

Info that I did not know. Thanks.

[@jimmydickson8854]

Very good point mate thank you

[@WilliamMichael1]

Nice video and worth the time to watch! Makes me want to do some research of replacement riving knives! Which also made me wonder if a car wax on the riving knife would be a good idea? I will experiment!

[@daz4312]

Have a 45 yr old Model 113 Craftsman. Riv knife on mine has these two nasty little backward-barbed spring-loaded curved wings on each side that the board pushes under as it passes through, and they are supposed to grab the board and lock it down if it tries to come back. But I found them to be quite a problem when ripping anything under about 3/4" thickness, they tend to shift over at the bottom and try to bind between the riv blade and the stock I'm cutting.... I was making 1/4" thick x 1 1/4" wide x 38" long slats for a roll-up table top, and it got pretty scary till I took that thing off. The wings also only have a clearance of 3 1/2" under where they are mounted onto the riv blade, so the end of some types of push stick won't go past them there on thinner rips and it had to come off again when ripping 2x4's or 4x4's thinner... The wing on the scrap side won't let you pull the scrap away from the blade until it completely clears the teeth on the wing, which is just about all the way off the table. That is a bit annoying. Never had a problem with the blades I"ve used being too skinny for the riv knife tho, it is only 12 ga metal (.08in or 1.9mm). But I have had thin stuff hang up in the back "U" of the slot in the table insert. Riv knife mounts with a turnbolt to a bracket just below and off the back of the table, so I can put it on/off without taking up the blade insert. Great vid, man, thanks for the info!

[@EricSorensenCanada]

Thanks DAZ! So there are ant-kickback pawls permanently attached to your riving knife? Usually, they are removable but I guess some older saws don't have that option.

[@brucemaher7621]

Thank you thank you...I wish everyone knows what you just showed me....and very good way you explain how it works thanks again

[@EricSorensenCanada]

Thanks Bruce! Glad it was helpful🙂

[@stanmashek3085]

good video thank you very much

[@garygerard4290]

good video - thank you

[@billrose5146]

Thanks, Eric. I was taught to use a table saw at age 10 and never had had kickback 51 years later, but I also appreciate how serious it is when it occurs. I have never used a riving knife except on a construction site with someone else's saw. There are youtube videos that describe how to make a riving knife. Don't you think a reasonable person (not every person) would consider that a riving knife of the proper thickness to be a safety improvement?

[@EricSorensenCanada]

The riving knives are all designed for their respective factory blades. Once you go with a finer/thinner blade, you will notice issues and possibly binding. Making a riving knife can come with its own set of challenges. I personally wouldn't bother with it unless I had a machinist friend who can replicate a good fit.

[@johnfreeman9846]

Really appreciate the explanation of how a riving knife works with different blades. I also use a 7.25 inch blade on my table saw and feel more comfortable with it. Now I understand why the riving knife doesn't work well with the smaller blade. Good info.

[@davidletz9123]

Thanks Eric. I made the switch to 7 1/4 inch blades about a year ago after watching your video. Even if the factory installed riving knife could accommodate the thin kerf of that blade, I believe it would fail, because the riving knife would be set too far back from the backside of the blade. Just sayin...

[@EricSorensenCanada]

Thanks David! Good point. It's true, they are made to work with a fixed diameter blade - 10 inches, in most home shop saws.

[@dtwistrewind7361]

If the riving knife was ground down to a width that is safe with the 7in blade would it still be safe to use on the factory thickness blade?

[@doncatchpole7370]

Good stuff

[@billrose5146]

I had a question about the Diablo blade. I bought a 10" Diablo, too, for my table saw. I noticed a definitive deflection of the blade left or right (can't remember which way), when viewed from behind, when I made cuts about 2" deep. In other words, instead of a straight up/down 90-degree cut, it pushed to one side. Do you think the thinness of the Diablo blades might cause something like that? In other words, it might be too thin such that it's floppy?

[@EricSorensenCanada]

I use 7 1/4" blades in my table saw (same arbor) , so I never experience that issue. The blade really shouldn't do that unless it's dull or defective. The Diablo blades are usually quite good. Is the blade sitting in the arbor correctly? Or maybe the arbor nut is not sitting flush?

[@rascasiopez1190]

Hola,soy de Cuba.muy buena explicación.todos dicen para que es pero nadie explica concretamente su funcion.Muchas gracias.

[@EricSorensenCanada]

Mucho gusto ....he estado en Cuba muchas veces🙂 ☀️

[@rascasiopez1190]

Hi, I'm actually a diver but I've always liked restoration work. When you come to Cuba, contact me if you want to take you to know the Cuban seabed.@@EricSorensenCanada

[@reginaldgabel2611]

Thanks for the info. I have a Ryobi 3100 which is not made anymore and I had the small problem. The saw is working great but I know I will have to replace it soon. What ridgid do you have. I have a small shop and do not have the room even for the hybrid saws. I did all my plywood ripping outside and use the table saw for my smaller cuts. My concern is good cuts. I make jewelry boxes and other small items. Thanks for any info.

[@EricSorensenCanada]

I just purchased a Dewalt 8-1/4" Compact Table saw $90 off the retail price (holiday sale). It's great because it comes with the proper sized riving knife to match and the fit and finish is much better than what I have now. I am selling the Ridgid, and I have to say, I can't recommend Ridgid. I had my eye on the Dewalt for a while now, because I too work out of a small shop. I will be building a special mobile station for it. Plans will be posted on my website if you're interested. Also, a full review and set up of the Dewalt will be coming out on my channel, the first week of January.

[@o.g.bwoodwork]

I never thought about the thickness of the riving knife, but I still haven’t changed from the manufacturers blade... yet. So thanks for the heads up. Could I get thinner riving knives for thinner blades? Or is it best to just remove the factory fitted one when using a thinner blade?

[@EricSorensenCanada]

@O . G . B Woodwork It depends on the manufacturer. I know I can't get one for my ridgid tablesaw. You are better off leaving your riving knife installed and instead, go shop for a blade that is the correct thickness or a little thicker than your riving knife.

[@o.g.bwoodwork]

Eric Sorensen thanks for the advice. Much appreciated.

[@markhopkins7204]

@@EricSorensenCanada First, thanks for the info...I thought the thin kerf blade I changed to was less strain on table saw motor, obviously less dust, and it produces a better cut, but I have noticed the issues you stated, especially on hard woods like maple & walnut,,,I'll trial some rips without the knife...again, thanks! Your channel is always informational and among the best on KZbin!

[@erikjohnson2889]

I love your channel! Question: would there be any sense in filing down the riving knife? I'm a beginning woodworker, just about to purchase a table saw. Thanks!

[@EricSorensenCanada]

@Erik Johnson Thanks! I know some folks have tried doing that. I wouldn't recommend filing down a factory riving knife, nor would I try to make a thinner one. Depending on how the riving knife is mounted, it may effect the precision of the cut. You're better off shopping for a blade of similar thickness to your factory blade - that way you know it will all work together as it should.

[@erikjohnson2889]

Eric Sorensen thanks so much for your reply! Your channel has become a crucial repository of great ideas for me to try. Grateful for ya!

[@EPortillo5000]

What you can do is make a troat plate with a spliter, there are some videos of how to do it, you can make a zero clearance plate and the spliter in the perfect size for the blade you are using.

[@erikjohnson2889]

@@EPortillo5000 Thanks so much! I really appreciate your help!

[@prinecash]

Well done video👍 I have the same Ridgid saw and have recently switched to a Diablo 10 inch from the factory 10. Can I get a new riving knife or do I have to go without one? Thanks for any info.

[@EricSorensenCanada]

Thanks! Ridgid does not make a thinner Riving knife. If you want to use the saw safely with the riving knife, you will need to go with a blade that is equally thick. Some folks go without the riving Knife or they install a splitter instead, but that is a personal choice.

[@williameldridge9382]

Yeah, been to several stores and been eyeballing a small/cheap tablesaw. There was no riving knife on any of them, not even the expensive ones.

[@vancester1st]

There’s probably one in the box. I see many of the job site saws at the big box stores take them off the display saws.

[@Boultonful]

very informative video, Question, can you purchase I riving knife to fit the new blades that you intend to use? does the saw manufacture supply thinner riving knives ? keep up the good work. happy new year to you.

[@EricSorensenCanada]

@John Boulton Thanks! From what I've seen, most manufacturers would prefer that you stick with their brand of blade. I have not seen a table saw yet that supplies multiple thicknesses for their riving knife - but it doesn't mean they don't exist. Your best bet would be to compare different blade brands. If you can get a high TPI blade with the same thickness as your factory blade (or thicker), you should be okay to use your riving knife with it.

[@Ch1mpyCh0mpy]

Hi John & Eric. I have a Dewalt DW745 (UK version). DeWalt does offer two thicknesses of riving knives, 2.2mm and 2.8mm versions for this saw, at least for the USA model. This won't solve the issue with a thin 1.37mm kerf blade. I have a 2.2mm rk and use a Freud 40 tooth 2.8mm kerf blade for general work but also have Freud tooth 24 blade of the same kerf for ripping.

[@reginaldgabel2611]

I took my and put it to my grinder then polished it.... it works great

[@alans1816]

You do want your riving knife to match your blade. Just make one from the plate of an old saw blade -- it's just the right thickness for clearance. Cut it with an angle grinder.

[@EricSorensenCanada]

@Alan S I know some folks do this. The only issue (at least on my table saw) is that the home made riving knife will not be dead center with the blade - once you mount it. The millimeter or so of mis-alignment might effect the performance of your saw and may still result in friction on one side of the kerf.

[@alans1816]

If your bracket holding the riving knife is not bent, all you need to do to keep the riving knife aligned is to shim. Tape works well. As far as alignment is concerned, positioning the face toward the fence is critical, and the other face less so. A thin kerf riving knife is helpful even with a full kerf blade.

[@edwardmedina1236]

Well that explains my problem. Wow, do I feel dumb now. Thanks for sharing this.

[@EricSorensenCanada]

It's definitely not you - its a design flaw in the machine. They should always come with more sizes of riving knives.

[@edwardmedina1236]

@@EricSorensenCanada I wanted to keep the Blade protector and the Riving knife. But I just couldn't. I would have major problems and I couldn't figure it out. I didn't realize the blade was thinner. I thought I was doing something wrong. I removed it and I haven't had any issues since. Still in the back of my mind I wanted to add it back but every time I tried I would be fighting my table saw. Honestly, it makes sense once I watched your video and now I feel like I should be facepalming.

[@FastRedPonyCar]

Great info. I've inherited my wife's grandfathers Delta Unisaw. I haven't gotten a chance to fire it up yet as it probably hasn't ran in 30 years and I need to install a 220v outlet but it has no riving knife and as a novice, that worries me a little. I'm considering grabbing a SharkGuard ARC for the saw and it seems like I need to first determine which blade I want to use and then buy the appropriate thickness SharkGuard. Is there any disadvantage of going with a thinner riving knife vs blade tooth width? Would it basically reach a thickness disparity where if it's too thin, it would no longer be able to do it's job properly or would even a thin riving knife be sufficient in reducing/eliminating kickback?

[@EricSorensenCanada]

It's far more dangerous if the riving knife is thicker than the blade, you will get binding and kick back. If it's thinner than the blade, it will do a decent job but the best case is if it is only slightly thinner than the blade, much like the factory set-up you see on most new table saws.

[@BinleyClan]

I have a contractor saw with no riving knife on it. Are there aftermarket riving knives or hold downs available?

[@EricSorensenCanada]

@BinleyClan You'd have to do a bit of research. If it's an older saw, it may never have had one to begin with. In which case, you may not be able to attach anything. You could try looking into aftermarket splitters instead. I've never used one but they might work for the saw you have.

[@nazpasfred3]

Are there various thicknesses of riving knives for all table saws? I don’t remember seeing any.

[@EricSorensenCanada]

There are a few out there, but most set-ups are brand specific. Dewalt works with their dewalt blades, Ridgid works with Ridgid blades etc...Partly because they want you to buy their brand of blade in perpetuity.

[@nazpasfred3]

@@EricSorensenCanada thank you. That's what I thought.

[@palehorse5275]

Great points. Did your owner's manual say anything about what type of blade to use/ or not?

[@EricSorensenCanada]

They will always recommend to use the manufacturers blade and to replace it with the same blade. Ridgid sells table saws, they also like to sell their blades🙂

[@Vman7757]

This explains my problem. Can you get thinner Riving Knives? Or just be super careful when using thinner blades?

[@EricSorensenCanada]

@Vincent Sanders Short answer: no. Table saw manufacturers want you to stay safe but, they also want you to buy their blades. Getting a thinner riving knife (if you could get one) may not work because the riving knife for your saw is designed to stay dead center with the saw blade. The best thing to do is to shop around for a blade that is of equal thickness or slightly thicker than your riving knife. As for using thinner blades with your RK: I can only speak from my own experience. I got binding (especially with hardwoods)and eventually kick back as a result of using a blade that was too thin for my RK.

[@Vman7757]

@@EricSorensenCanada Thanks I have a 10 inch Sears craftsmen. Love the saw. But for what is going on in your video. It never occurred to me that the issue maybe the RK.. Well I have new information to work with. Thanks

[@PeanutsDadForever]

Valuable information. Thank you. 👴🏻🇦🇺

[@markkoons7488]

Making a riving knife isn't terribly complicated with a drill press and a mini grinder but does anyone know of a source for blank stock in a variety of thicknesses?

[@justingriffin8743]

Grate video. Thank you for sharing your experience. I'm new to wood working. I typically use a skill saw for framing cuts. Has someone asked, is there a guide or list of what blades are typically what thicknesses? Yea, the Rigid blade works for the included riving knife, but I imagine people like yourself move on to buy other blades. Are Diablo's just cheap or have you found other blades that arent Ridged that are equal thickness?

[@EricSorensenCanada]

Diablo blades are usually more expensive and offer better performance than most factory blades. Most factory blades will be thicker than the diablo. The only exception is maybe the 8 1/4" compact table saw by Dewalt, which may be a better match for a diablo blade.

[@charlesbarry9194]

Newbie question. How can I measure distance from the back of the blade with the riving knife in the way? I’m considering removing it because of this. Not my first time using a table saw but first time using a riving knife.

[@EricSorensenCanada]

Unplug the saw, remove the riving knife, measure, then reinstall the riving knife. If you don't know how to remove it, look for the owners manual for your table saw online. It will show you how to do it.

[@IcarusFlyby]

You bought a Ridgid : Sorry

[@EricSorensenCanada]

Yeah, you haven't seen the latest video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bIrKZK2FlpqafbM

[@danking2665]

Do blade Manufactures make a universal riving blade that can be purchaded, or do i have to go through the saw manufacture for different thickness?

[@EricSorensenCanada]

They generally only make their riving knives to fit their factory blades. It's very rare when you get more than one option.

[@ChristopherClaudioSkierka]

Hi good video !!!, ps what table saw make/model do you use? thanks...i need to buy new one soon for cupboard making :)

[@EricSorensenCanada]

@Christopher Claudio Skierka Thanks! Mine is a Ridgid heavy duty, job site table saw. If I were to buy one today, I would probably go with a Dewalt job site table saw. Even the Dewalt compact table saw is pretty nice - especially for the money. If you have the budget, you could look at Saw Stop or Powermatic.

[@ChristopherClaudioSkierka]

@@EricSorensenCanada You know I have read about and see the USA cabinet makers use the sawstop but cannnot find a dealer in the Uk, the dewalts - is it accurate (mire slots and fence?)?

[@ChristopherClaudioSkierka]

@@EricSorensenCanada sawstop dont export here , just found out :(

[@EricSorensenCanada]

@Christopher Claudio Skierka I've toyed with the idea of selling my table saw and buying the Dewalt version instead. In my opinion, the quality of the materials is better than the Ridgid. I would assume the mitre slot and fence are accurate out of the factory but of course - that is easy enough to test and adjust if need be. It's best to go look at a demo model at a local dealer and compare a few brands / features.

[@michaelboisvert7821]

Same thing after replacing the blade on my Delta with Diablo and rip-cutting 8ft of Southern Yellow Pine. Now I know better. First table saw I ever had, purchased in May. Rookie mistake. Thanks for the info.

[@kccreations5945]

Can I use a 7 1/4 blade on a portable Ridgid table saw? R4516

[@EricSorensenCanada]

@KC Creations Assuming the arbor is the same in all Ridgid models, then yes, you should be able to.

[@kccreations5945]

Eric Sorensen Awesome thanks man. Never thought about this but I have a nice 7 1/4 diablo blade that would probably be better than the used Ridgid 10” one!

[@EricSorensenCanada]

You can also check out the video where I installed a 71/4" diablo on my table saw: kzbin.info/www/bejne/o4ewoImnZ5idhc0

[@shamsularfeen1676]

Company could have easily provided couple of extra riving knives of for thinner blades..

[@EricSorensenCanada]

They could have, if they sold thinner blades...

[@deckerprairiewoodworks9826]

👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@alanatkins4315]

Maybe the blade manufacturers need to make riving knives to suit the blades they make.

[@EricSorensenCanada]

@Alan Atkins They do! All the table saws leave the factory with a blade that matches the riving knife perfectly. The problem starts when you want to go to a blade for finer work (60TPI or higher). Those blades are often thinner.

[@dwaynerobare1153]

Blades manufacturers should offer a kit with one with it... then all subsequent blade purchases would be just the blade....

[@woodworkwalksandthingsthat8082]

Excellent, a bit of fact about riving knives rather than the usual you must have one

[@alanatkins4315]

I mean that the blade makers them selves should make riving knives to suit their blades.

[@EricSorensenCanada]

@Alan Atkins The problem is, many table saw manufacturers are also in the blade selling business. Otherwise, thickness variations would be less of an issues because they would just make their riving knives for the lowest common denominator.

[@tano1747]

So really it is a constraint on your choice of blade that you match the kerf width. Which is ok unless you specifically want a thin kerf blade. Then you need to factor in the cost of a new thinner riviing knife (or more likely the time tip make it yourself????)

[@EricSorensenCanada]

@Tano17 If you can find a thinner riving knife, which for most brands is not available. Most table saw manufacturers want you to buy their brand of blade and stick with it. Many of the better quality, higher TPI blades will be thinner, Freud 10 Inch Saw Blades for example. I wouldn't recommend making your own riving knife, just shop for a blade that works with the one you have.

[@tano1747]

@@EricSorensenCanada yeah agreed. Sticking with the original kerf width was what i was hinting at. Making your own knife would require a rather well equipped metal shop and would be out of the reach of 99% of wood whisperers.

[@IIGrayfoxII]

Can you swap out Riving knifes?

[@EricSorensenCanada]

If you have access to a CNC plasma cutter that can custom cut a riving knife to the thickness you want, then yes. Doing manually is possible too but the accuracy will not be as good.

[@IIGrayfoxII]

@@EricSorensenCanada They dont sell thinner ones at hardware stores? Would've assumed that riving knifes were somewhat standardized where the base where it attaches is a set size and then the thickness can be anything it needs to be.

[@EricSorensenCanada]

No they do not sell thinner RKs, nor are they standardized. Enjoy🙂

[@user-ih9lm6qu5i]

Привет друг...сам откуда ты

[@pumpkinscueball]

The most simple solution to riving knife problems........ get rid of it! I've been wood working for just over 40 years and the first thing I've done with a new table saw is get rid of the riving knife. I have never had one single kick back because of it. If you have wood that binds up so bad that it jams the blade when you cut it, then it's probably to wet and unstable to build anything with it anyway. Use the proper wood for the project you are building. Don't cheap out. If you run into a problem cutting wood, it's your fault, not the saws. The tablesaw is the most important tool in your shop, and, probably everyone's favorite. But it can also be an unforgiving monster. Treat it with the utmost respect and totally focus on each and every cut and you will be just fine. The only thing going through my mind when I'm making a cut is how much damage that blade can do to my fingers if something goes wrong. Because I am so focused,when I'm making a cut, I only use a push stick on cuts that are less than 1 1/2" wide. I know a lot of you are going to say that this is dangerous too. But, when I'm making a cut, I've gotten into a habit of straddling the fence with the hand that I'm using to push the wood with. This way, it's impossible for my fingers to ever contact the blade. Like everything else in life, the table saw isn't meant that every person is capable of using it. If you can't focus long enough to make a 10 second cut, then, maybe you should consider knitting instead.

[@gr8boydk]

God dag mand økseskaft

[@rcboals]

Just subscribed thank you for this video explains a lot.

[@EricSorensenCanada]

Awesome, thank you🙂