The TRUTH about shooting at ISO 100 (the PROS do this)

[@Photography-Explained]

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[@alleycatjack4562]

Great advice about ISO. The biggest advice I can give to anyone is to learn your gear, not what it could be if you had another peice of gear. Focus on what you have at the moment. Practice with it in a variety of situations, such as lighting and motion. Learn where the limits are, and then you will know instantly where to make your quick adjustments and get back to taking shots. A guide online will never be a substitute for practice and learned knowledge.

[@dogdadoutdoors]

I've been a full-time pro, a part-time Pro and an amateur. I never saw any increase or decrease of my skills or abilities. That just defines how you make your money, some of us just have better options so don't worry about being 'just an amateur'. You are bang on about modern cameras too. Years ago shooting weddings on film ISO was so important, same with the earlier Digital SLR's, Kodak DCS 14n, D70, Fuji S2, S5 and then around about the Nikon D700/Canon 5d, we saw a massive change in low light capabilities. I'm on the Zf now, and I'm handing over more and more control to the camera. auto iso, auto area focus, the only thing I'm keeping control of is the aperture or shutter and the white balance.

[@johnwarren1445]

At last,someone who talks a lot of sense. Thank you.

[@Photography-Explained]

Hey John, appreciate the kind words mate! :)

[@ste286ste]

For all the Nikon users out there, you can also set your minimum shutterspeed in the ISO settings too, and then shoot in Aperture priority to take advantage of it. If the scene gets brighter the shutter speed gets adjusted as necessary maintaining correct exposure if the ISO is at the lowest setting of the selected range. I shoot sports 98% of the time, as a football club volunteer mostly along with other sports for over a decade and always done it this way as it has made life so much easier. Solid points well made, thank you, so many people don't understand how helpful this setting can be. I refuse to call it a hack too, it's how the equipment was made to be used, if so desired.

[@Bringisen]

That I can do in my Sony cameras for years now. It is grate.

[@Dragoniel_Iskaliri_Silverwing]

Using Nikon, In aperture priority once the ISO gets maxed out the camera will happily override your shutter limits. I still think that aperture priority + auto ISO is the most comfortable and sensible mode in normal conditions, but it gets real iffy in low light situations.

[@lucdelhaize4029]

I totally agree with your mindset, I will always control shutter speed and aperture and let ISO do the compensation most of the time. People who are stuck with the 100 ASA as gold standard are stuck in 35mm emulsion photography.

[@patrickmcmahon818]

You are 100% correct about auto ISO. I almost always shoot in manual and where I live when I’m outside, I’m dealing with clouds that are constantly changing my settings. Picking my depth of field or shutter speed to capture a subject is priority and my ISO is the variable. The only other setting I could suggest is exposure compensation to catch over or under exposures with auto ISO. This is the same with indoor event photos, auto ISO with my exposure compensation set to around -.7 to keep whites or highlights from blowing out. Like you had mentioned, I had listened to too many KZbin videos telling me to keep my ISO down… finally I just switched to higher ISO’s and can’t believe what I’ve captured. Also, you can pixel peep all day but the real test is printing your pics. You will be amazed how a little noise just vanishes or adds to a pic. Great video!

[@Photography-Explained]

Hey Patrick! That would actually be a cool video - what exposure comp are starting points for difference scenes and settings. Are there any other exposure comp settings you tend to default to?

[@patrickmcmahon818]

@@Photography-Explained Would love to see you do a video on Exposure Compensation. This is something that I’ve been using over the past 6 months or so. I’ve found when using my Auto ISO the camera can tend to over expose whites when you have primarily a dark background (camera wants to bring blacks up to grey) or underexpose darks for mostly bright pics. I have found generally I’ll bring my EC down to -.7 to -1.3 if I’m indoors doing event photography if the room is very dark and I’m photographing people who are being light by spot lights. Outdoor photography can be a little more tricky. Since the Auto ISO can adapt faster to changing light, ie clouds, using EC helps me keep from blowing out my highlights. I’ll adjust the EC anywhere from just a little, -.3, to maybe a lot, -2 or lower. For example taking beach pictures the sand and sun reflection off the surf can drive me crazy. I’ll adjust a shots and watch the histogram to see how far I can go before blowing out my highlights. I haven’t got into photo stacking so I also use EC to push my pictures sky’s to keep from blowing out. I’m still learning like everyone and I’m always picking up a little something here and there. I like your videos since you’re not trying to sell the latest and greatest, but using the gear you have. Try playing with the EC when you have exposures that are either too dark or bright while shooting with Auto ISO and watch the histogram. I shoot RAW so the image on the back is more composure and the histogram is for my exposure. When you get it back to process I think you’ll be amazed at what you get.

[@alansach8437]

Exposure compensation is really a case by care situational thing. There are basics. I have a bright background, therefore my subject is likely to be underexposed, so I open up a bit; or I have a dark background so the opposite is true. But talking specifics is next to impossible. How much of the frame is background, and how much subject? What camera am I using? A friend's Nikon nearly always overexposes (even "normal" 18% gray scenes), while my Canon nearly always underexposes, thus on the same scene he starts out two thirds under and I'm one third over. The pictures are nearly identical! You have to learn your camera.

[@misterx6209]

Wish I had beautiful landscape nearby. Really hard as landscape photographer to get stunning images here. No sea, no mountains, just built up area everywhere

[@outofthecommonphotography5503]

I've been doing auto ISO and it's been a great technique. I can appreciate the higher ISO as well. Makes good sense. Especially if trying to do landscaping. Plus, it's less worry for the shooter.

[@Wonder-2525]

Auto ISO with manual is great. I do a lot of theater photography at my son's school and summer camps he's done...Shutter speed is set to avoid motion blur and my aperture is wide open to keep my ISO as low as possible. I dial in some exposure compensation so the meter doesn't try to brighten the background that is typically in shadow which reduces the AUTO-ISO based on that compensation in M mode. I might try preserve highlight metering next time since performers are almost always spotlight lit and even if I have to raise the shadows a bit in post (I have to adjust WB anyway because theater lights have a lot of color cast).

[@1701odin]

The ISO advice isn't outdated. The actual ISO advice is to use the lowest ISO possible for the conditions. That is still valid and you should still do it. There's no reason to use ISO 800 if you're sitting on a tripod taking a photo of a static scene that could be captured at ISO 100 with a longer shutter speed. Unless you want to add grain intentionally. The higher ISO really kills fine detail.

[@dkremeni633]

Tumbnail is 100 ISO loads of noise and 800 ISO no noise...really? you content is high quality, looking great, but man. I said before i clicked, if this is clickbait im giving tumbs down. im a protographer for 15 years, you got to realize, when you create tumbnail that is not about content of video, you are waisting someone's time...there are many other ways to make catchy tumbnail and headline, like "Best tips and tricks for landscape photography" or something like that and a butyfull photo that you have in video...

[@paulneedham9885]

If the native iso is 800 that might just be less noisy than 100

[@MrBertybob]

At 800 iso a lot less chance of shake shooting handheld. With post editing noise not a problem either. 100 is fine for landscape on a tripod. The main point is that beginners get told they should always shoot on 100. Best to let the camera decide iso for your shutter and apperature.

[@Stop-All-War]

@@MrBertybob True to a degree, auto-iso is dependant on setting reasonable usable limits

[@ephotosaver]

The best thing I ever did was switch to auto ISO .Im Shooting this way with all my photography, wildlife landscape, nature, etc.

[@gavinoliver7655]

I just bought the lens and found this article REALLY useful. Looking forward to getting started again.

[@dmaifred]

Love the guitar amp analogy. A good logic enforcement from young days. Volume on instrument and volume on amp balance.

[@genuine0]

A delightful and very engaging video, your positivity and enthusiasm cut through, thanks for sharing these tips, I feel the same, I am not at all afraid to use high ISO when needed. Incidentally has anyone ever told you that you talk a bit like Nicholas Smith (except for the big ears)? Cheers mate.

[@PhotoswithArt]

Interesting tips. Thank you.

[@PhotographyByRune]

I totally agree with you. But every photographer I have seen recomending this, is sitting there with the latest, low noise gizmo of a pro-grade camera. And most of the people that need this kind of advice ....do not.

[@alansach8437]

It makes a difference doesn't it? Folks should know that with a ten or fifteen year old lower end DSLR they kinda do have to keep the ISO " as low as possible". Some of them really made a mess of things over 800 ISO that even modern noise reduction software struggles to correct!

[@deviant1001]

The Shutter speed, Aperture, ISO triangle is a trade off one against the other 2 its a balancing act dependent on what you are photographing and what you want out of the image. Noise in a image is essentially grain in the old days we used to shoot with film that was designed to give that effect Ilford 400 was renowned for it and we strived to achieve this effect. With the new denoise tools in software "I use Adobe ACR and photoshop noise is not that much of an issue these days it can be removed in post processing. when doing landscape photography I generally have the camera on a tripod so shutter speed is less of a problem, general walk around photography I set ISO to auto so I can concentrate on shutter speed and aperture in a studio its less of a problem shutter speed set to sync choose the aperture for the effect you want then use the flash heads to control the light therefore ISO doesn't come into it if you want a smother look ISO 100 or less, if you want a grainy look ISO 800 or higher you can even add grain in post processing this is just my opinion I'm no pro.

[@bobfrog99]

As a bird photographer I always use auto iso with most adjustments to shutter speed based on the wing speed of the bird

[@rosslangerak8361]

About a decade ago, I took a nighttime photo that required I boost the ISO significantly. I removed the noise pixel by pixel. Took a little time, but the results were good.

[@battleita]

Golden retriever as shutter speed standard. Love it!! Thanks for this straight to the point guide!

[@brittanya2188]

GREAT explanations for a beginner photographer 👏🏼👏🏼 BY FAR THE BEST VIDEOS I'VE SEEN ONLINE! 😁

[@jamesmlodynia8757]

I do a good amount of bird 🐦 photography with a Fujifilm XH2 and a 100-400mm Fujifilm lens, very often i find myself using ISO 1600 depending on light because of the quick movement of the subject, many of the birds i photograph are Herons, Egrets, Ospreys and an occasional Eagle, many of these are in or around water hunting for fish and you need a fast shutter speed to get a sharp photo, when an Egret or Heron spears a fish or any other prey, it's movement is like a blink of a n eye.

[@stigfloberghagenphotography]

Nice tips 👍

[@Twobarpsi]

I find noise is less noticeable when you print a picture. I also set my camera up tge same way: shutter speed, aperture, and ISO is always last!

[@markbarkntrunk102]

Another excellent video. thanks

[@Photography-Explained]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@WesleyEast-RRfan]

Wow, this has changed my view on photography. Thanks for making this informative video

[@RolandGonzales1961]

Thank you for your youtube video - you bring up several good points. In addition to your insight, I have come to realize that digital cameras all have ISO “sweet” spots. For example, my Canon R6 Mark II has less noise at ISO 400 than ISO 200. Another aspect of ISO settings to remember is ISO settings greatly impact dynamic range. Here again for the R6 Mark II at ISO 400 has better dynamic range at ISO 400 then 200. So, when I’m out in the field, I shoot at ISO 400 over 200 every time. Knowing my camera ISO sweet spots was game changer for me. Also, depending on what your audience is viewing your work, they may not even see the difference in noise. For example, most of my work is digested via the internet on browsers via a 4K monitors - in most cases they won’t even notice the noise. Lastly, as you mentioned, modern photography software and AI noise reduction really makes noise a very small issue…. As you said consider the shutter speed and aperture as your primary exposure controls.

[@dumspyrospero]

Great video and I agree with you ❤It is also worth mentioning that if you properly expose your photos high ISO will produce less noise than if you keep the same ISO and underexpose your scene and later try to raise the exposure during the editing process 🔥

[@jimmywestphoto]

I've even had the argument that, "My IBIS is so good so I can shoot at 1/4th without camera shake!" and then ask me afterwards why their photo became blurry.. Well, when the wind is about 25km/h and you're shooting tree's that HEAVILY moving, take your guess why your photos are blurry. So this is when I've had to step back with them and talk about the real basics again that, if you want to freeze your movement you gotta increase the shutter. And to achieve that shutter and proper exposure you either have to change your aperture or your ISO.. 😆 Also mate, I just recently discovered your videos but please, please stop using expressions like "Pro's do this / that" and similar. Only difference between a photographer and a "pro photographer" is that the latter earns money by doing it.

[@Photography-Explained]

Hey Jimmy. Appreciate the comment and love your anecdote. The pro vs amateur thing is because I'm trying to separate myself from everyone else on KZbin who say that they're "pro" this and "professional" that. I hear you though. Maybe it needs to be less on the nose. I checked out your channel and I've queued up your micro camper videos. I think building one out might be on the cards for me this Christmas period!

[@jimmywestphoto]

@@Photography-Explained No, I feel you. I usually introduce myself as a hobby enthusiast because that's what most of us are. Maybe I'm just being dramatic, but being a "pro" doesn't mean you're a great at what you do anyway. It's just my opinon anyway, I get why you are doing it. And thanks! I'm about to make the 6th part as I've been out a lot with the camper this summer. A little of an update of what my experience has been so far

[@robmcd]

@@Photography-Explainedwrong again. An Amateur is not a beginner. Amateur and Professional should have the same skill set but one does it as a job and one does it for fun. Don’t worry we’re not bad it’s just a misnomer.

[@frankmenkel8329]

Great advice. Thank you. In addition, modern post-processing software like ON1 removes easily noise.

[@randychestnut6591]

Excellent suggestion to use Auto ISO in your camera settings along with an upper limit on ISO that you are comfortable with. I got this suggestion from Reed Hoffmann years ago at a Nikon photography class, and have used it since. My family appreciates me being able to take the vacation shots a little quicker too.

[@JezdziecBezNicka]

What I prefer to do is use a combination of auto-iso limit (6400 usually) and minimum shutterspeed limit (between 1/50 and 1/250 depending on the situation). I keep both settings in MyMenu for easy access (that’s how Olympus calls it, not sure what’s the name in Sony)

[@Reactor10k]

This isn’t bad advice, but high iso is more than grain. It also affects the colour of your image. I really wish people didn’t just talk about iso being grain.

[@dirkpehrke9909]

A reason for highlight weighted metering: in analog photography, you couldn’t save underexposed areas of a photo. Lost in the darkness remained lost. In digital photography, you can do incredible stuff with underexposed areas of your photo, but you can’t restore smashed / overexposed highlights. So if you’re unsure, it’s always better to underexpose a bit than to overexpose and smash the highlights. Your explanations are great, but you didn’t even mention post processing or shooting in RAW.❤

[@alansach8437]

Not taking a position either way, but of course that is the exact opposite of what we have heard for years about digital. "Shoot to the right", move the histogram as far to the right as possible (ETTR) without blowing highlights, in other words, without smashing the histogram up the right side of the box. The reason being that there is more information on the highlight side of the histogram than on the shadow side. The "proof" has always been to take a series of photos of the same thing starting with the histogram to the left, and adding a third of a stop of light for each successive picture. Then compare file size. The brighter photos will have progressively larger files because they contain more information. The more information the better when post processing.

[@HaakonOdinsson]

As an owner of two leicas (typ 246 & m10), my base iso on the typ246 is 400 (as opposed to 320) and on the m10 is set at 200 (as opposed to 100)…I adjust as needed. Thank you for your upload, very interesting 🙂

[@QuicknStraight]

This is a very simplistic view of "noise" and ISO. Incorrect exposure will create "noise", even at low ISO, because noise is more a function of insufficient light than sensor gain. A correctly exposed image at a higher ISO will exhibit less noise than a badly underexposed image at low ISO. The thing is to find out where the limits of your camera are and decide your method once you understand those limits. And, honestly, if you're serious about sports or wildlife photography, a cheap zoom isn't going to cut it in anything less than optimal lighting conditions. Trying to shoot fast movement at f5.6 or 6.3 is going to demand a major compromise to keep the shutter speeds fast enough in anything less than great light.

[@daveking5680]

Great video, thanks. Have been experamenting with 3200 & 6400 for a "painterly effect" and had forgotten my software can do denoise. Just tried it and am now able to adjust if noise is a little to much.

[@lengt001]

With my Canon R6M2 and the RF 24-105 f4 l and the RF 100-500 mm f4.5-7.1 L I do manual shutter and f. But always with auto iso. With the RF 100-500mm it goes up frequently but that does not matters me. :) I am not a professional but amatur wildlife photographer.

[@darylcheshire1618]

graininess is easier to handle in post than motion blur.

[@KatieF307]

Great video, and great information. I use auto-ISO for sporting events that occur in the evening. It keeps things convenient. You really do a nice job with your presentation style.

[@Jerry10939]

Use the ISO with the most reciprocity for the lighting conditions.

[@ChrisGee-rx9gg]

Great down to earth advice. Please don't keep repeating "this is what pros do", saying it once is enough. We get the message. You will have more time for your own opinions then.

[@Photography-Explained]

Thanks Chris. Had the same feedback in another comment on this video. I'm trying to separate myself from all of the "pros" on KZbin but it's too obviously on the nose in this video.

[@robertleeimages]

A big pet hate of mine too and i don't bother watching videos with titles like this, so thanks for the heads up

[@thattassiewargamer]

Plus the term professional is not always an indicator of skill. I’ve seen plenty of images from “professional” photographers that are average at best, and I’ve seen even more images from enthusiasts that are absolutely magnificent. Whether somebody uses photography as their main source of income tells me nothing about their skills or creativity. How do you find out a photographer is professional? Don’t worry, they’ll tell you.😊

[@ratansharma951]

​​@@thattassiewargamer'Professional' is NEVER an indicator of good photos. Every good thing, including photography is based on how deeply one thinks. How can this be attributed to being professional or non-professional? The truth is that some pros FORCE people into thinking that they are better. This is a commercial, materialistic world where people go to any lengths to make money. Mother Nature's freebies like eyes are worth more than all the 'wealth' man can create.

[@Globetrotter-1]

​@@Photography-Explained I photograph a variety of subjects in all weather conditions, year round in the UK and Worldwide, mainly concentrating on travel, sports, landscapes & wildlife. I shot the majority of my images at 50 ASA for decades. When I moved to digital I captured the majority of my images at 100 ISO or occasionally 200, with a maximum of 400. I rarely ever shoot images over 400 ISO. That continues today.

[@yrjobenson]

Excellent!

[@Photography-Explained]

Glad you enjoyed the video.

[@freepadz6241]

Love this guy

[@rongrantga]

Great video! I use manual with auto ISO most of the time. I see you're using a K&H Concepts Geared Head. I have one too. I much prefer it to a ball head design.

[@Photography-Explained]

Glad you enjoyed the video. Yep the geared head really forces me to slow down and consider my shot, then reconsider it again because it's so much less of a pain than dealing with a drooping ball head.

[@quantumjim45]

Regarding high iso (in auto ISO) - in low light settings with people, I'd MUCH rather get a shot with significant noise than one that had either or both 1) camera shake blur 2) depth of field that left important elements out of focus. I'm happy using auto ISO, so I'm clearly biased.

[@ubertozaga]

next Sunday I will try to put your advice into practice, I'm going to photograph the last enduro motorbike race in my province, and I have already decided on the lens that I will bring with me and that will be the Canon EF 28mm f/2.8, (I like to stay as close as possible to the race course also to avoid putting the ribbons that delimit the path in the photo), with an EF/EF-S to RF adapter to be able to mount it on my Canon EOS R50. I will let the camera manage the ISO that I will set between 200 and 6400 and the aperture, I decide the shutter speed and it will be between T=1/1000 and T=1/2000 depending on the course. Then I'll tell you how it went.

[@andreaslack8379]

I cut my teeth with Kodachrome 25 slide film. Back in those days using 100 ISO pint film was a quality compromise. As 200, 400 and then 1600 ISO films became available it was fun to explore the doors that opened though with some quality loss. My old DSLR did noticeably degrade going up to 1600 ISO. My new DSL runs up to 6400 ISO and is much cleaner than the old one at 1600. 6400 ISO is sort of my standard for non-flash indoor photography and frankly I don't even bother with a flash anymore indoors due to the amazing job these modern cameras do.

[@z352kdaf8324]

You do lose some stops of dynamic range leaving base iso, so use with caution

[@terrencesharrock]

What the pros do is shoot at the iso recommended for the cameras picture profile and use ND filters to control exposure.

[@RichardServello]

Here's a little thing nobody likes to talk about. A little bit of noise is a thing called dithering. Dithering is a trick that can be used to make an image LOOK SHARPER. Yup, less noise can actually be perceived as softer. Shoot ISO 3200 in bright sunlight, then shoot the same image in ISO 100 and I guarantee if you exposed identically the ISO 3200 will APPEAR sharper, even if you zoom in and see more visible noise in shadows. Feature film cameras like Black Magic and Arri shoot at ISO 800 native for best image results.

[@NJM1948]

And you can always use software to get rid of any noise

[@kmoecub]

I never understood why that "rule" was ever a thing. I suppose that it comes either from the days when ISO 100 was a fast film, or from people who never shot landscapes near (or even after) dusk. Even in digital photography ISO 100 isn't the best choice for most outdoor situations, especially if you want to capture interesting compositions.

[@mareius]

I feel like I want to see SS A and Iso Settings when I see a sample image in a video about photography

[@robvandenwijngaart1970]

Hummm...... Auto ISO. Never thought about it like you say it. Next time I'm out with my camera I'll try to hand over some 'countrol' to the camera and see how it goes. Thanks for the video.

[@Photography-Explained]

You're welcome Rob. Glad you enjoyed the video mate.

[@coyoteself]

All very true and the biggest limiting facto to bumping up the ISO is the camera itself. My full frame mirrorless camera can easily handle ISO-12,800 and somewhat higher before noise starts to get noticeable and ugly. My full frame DSLR is good up to 6400 and max 10,000 (maybe) where it's very noticeable. My aps-c mirrorless is good at ISO-1600 and 3200. My point & shoot camera with a 1" sensor is good at 400 and ISO-800 is the max before it gets noticeable and ugly and my smartphone...no clue and I don't really care. My point is, each camera and each manufacturer has it's limitations to where the ISO becomes a distracting issue and a photographer, needs to learn the limitation for each of their cameras

[@paulwilcock4351]

I really enjoyed your video and this is one of the best explanations of ISO that I have heard. Keep up the great work. I will send a link to your channel to the members in my camera club, I think they will like your style. #newsubscriber

[@MarvPido]

For the vast majority of time I spent being a "newbie" at photography in the past, we're talking more than 15 years or so ago, I shot at ISO 100. Because my photography "influencers" then are the likes of Rick Sammon - who, by the way, is a great photographer, a legend, who knows what he's doing and talking about, I'm not saying in any way, shape or form that he's wrong - who advocated to shoot at ISO 100 if possible, I shot all the time at ISO 100-200 only. Guess how "sharp" my pictures were then? Absolute garbage. But as you point out in this video, modern cameras are better at handling higher ISOs, whereas cameras 15-20 or more years ago sucked at high ISOs, we tend to be conservative. If I knew then what I know now, I would have taken noisy but usable photos than clean but not even worth the space on my hard drives photos. We live, we learn.

[@vitorguimaraes6443]

This is the second video I've seen here that tries to explain that iso is to be used, yes of course in the circumstances in which they should be used I don't understand what the question is, I use 64 whenever I can, my night photos are in iso 64 but of course I have to have a tripod, if I leave the tripod at home or I'm photographing the Milky Way I'll have to change the iso. Anyone who has a camera should know this or give up on photography.

[@derekgillan7314]

If you get your exposure right, it will work.

[@briancarlisle2534]

On your web page (photo pages to download) it says the best iso is 50-200 for landscape.

[@JustinBradleyPhotographer]

@01:50 Not true, always great to check your camera's native ISO setting. Correct in assuming 100 for probably most cameras, however I have encountered bodies that native is rated at 400.

[@Roar.]

Nowadays, the AI noise reduction features in software are so good... I have had great (edited) photos at 12800 ISO... I am not worried about this anymore. Except, perhaps, with night sky/astrophotography or so, but other than that, bring it on!

[@Dragoniel_Iskaliri_Silverwing]

I don't really understand why do you ever want to set an upper limit of AUTO-ISO in hybrid manual mode? From what I understand, the only thing that is going to do is just leave your image underexposed. The camera can't do anything about it. The way I see it, you always SEE what ISO you get, even in an optical viewfinder. If you are in manual control of aperture and speed, then it is up to you to adjust these parameters (or change the composition) to get the ISO you want. Freezing the ISO at any arbitrary point is simply limiting the information you are getting - namely the camera telling you this scene is way too dark, I need to crank up ISO to THIS for exposure to be reasonable, you need to do something about it. Do you really prefer taking an underexposed photo instead of eating a high ISO? ISO can be (somewhat) fixed in post, clipped darks can't, isn't it so?

[@ThePNWRiderWA]

I use m4/3 as the lens are smaller and lighter for wildlife. I will set the aperture and shutter and let the ISO do whatever is needed. Using DXO pure raw or Lightroom to remove noise it’s sharper and has less noise than images at 200 from a decade ago. I will use topaz labs photo Ai for iPhone snaps when that all I have with me and shot with one of the aftermarket. Apps that shoot raw. I will go it the same way. Lock the shutter and aperture. ISO is whatever. I have some excellent landscapers mounted shot wall mounted from the iPhone.

[@granitfog]

Actually the advice and teaching is: "given the same conditions of light, lower ISO will give you the best image quality, assuming by quality you greater detail and less noise." - There is a fallacy called the strawman fallacy that a lot of youtubers used to make an issue out of a non issue. I always wonder why this distortion or invented drama is necessary, is the need for clicks so much more important than truth and accuracy?

[@oldguy1030]

I really don't disagree with what you said, but you are omitting something about increasing the ISO. When you increase your ISO you are also generally decreasing your dynamic range. I daresay that most of us will never miss the lost dynamic range for the photos we are taking, but it can be a problem in some cases. But the key to remember is that if you can't get a reasonably good shot without a higher ISO? Go with the higher ISO and take the shot. There is a lot you can fix in post-processing but if you have no image to process - you have nothing.

[@vladponoran7381]

The example at 2:19 with good image at ISO 800 against "blury" image at ISO 100 is really false, considering that it is a landscape photo, there's no moving subject(not even a bird) and especially if someone uses a tripod(I've see you use it)! An example from wildlife or from sports would have been a good choice! So don't get me wrong: I am aware that in specific situations raising the ISO really is useful... but it's not the case in the chosen example.

[@RodneyMarchant-bg4hq]

The trouble with photography is that you are listening to amateurs. There is a whole other world out there. I have been using aperture priority since this become available in cameras, about 1980. I also use auto ISO and since noise reduction software become availible I have hiked the auto ISO up to max.I only use manual in a studio, manual gets in the way of creativity as does fiddling with camera settings. Photos are made in the head not in settings, left to it's own device the camera will make a better exposure than you can. That's the truth.

[@TheRealMarxz]

yep "manual mode" is at best a training/learning experience, once you understand exposure then hell shoot in P mode if you want and ride the exp comp dial . My Nikon f4 was basically glued to A mode for real estate and car commercial work and glued to S for moving car shots, honestly in my time as a paid photographer the only time I shot manual mode was product photography studio shots with medium and large format cameras

[@a_deep_breath_in]

We made video….. I do mostly monochrome editing and I shoot in jpeg monochrome as well as raw and I love grain/noise in my photography and in my paid portraits I need to catch the shot so auto iso with out fear

[@BobN54]

The 'higher amplification = more distortion' line in this video is a complete fallacy. For a start the 'distortion' you're talking about in sound only occurs when the level is turned up so much as to clip the signal - it's akin to clipping the highlights in photography. A well designed variable gain amplifier produces negligible distortion and noise compared to what is inherent in the light - called 'photon shot noise'. The key to mastering exposure is realising that noise/quality is proportional to the amount of light captured, and therefore the exposure - so you aim use the highest exposure that you can, subject to other constraints such as DOF and motion blur that limit your aperture and shutter speed. ISO is an afterthought. Higher ISO in general add less electronic noise into the mix (not more as many people falsely believed, based on the 'amplification fallacy) so you need to be setting the highest ISO that will not result in clipped highlights given the exposure you are setting. So, set exposure first, then set ISO - or let auto ISO do it for you. Apologies if you said this later in the video - but when people start off with fallacies, I tend to give up there.

[@TheRealMarxz]

I'm getting perfectly usable, low noise images from my newer('ish) Lumix MFT cameras (GX9 and G9) and Canon APS-C and full frame cameras (90D, 5Div, R7 , and R8) at ISO settings that didn't even exist on cameras on my first few digital cameras (Canon D30, D60, 20D, 40D) Back in the early days I know if I boosted my Canon D30 and D60 cameras (yes I'm that old ;) ) past 400 ISO the images were unusable, even now going back using modern AI noise filters they are still unusable so I had to keep things at base or at most 200 ISO , by early/mid 2010s I felt comfortable pushing my cameras (Canon 60D and Lumix GX7) up to 1600 ISO, no problems, now days my 5Div and R8 and even with the smaller "noisy" MFT G9 & GX9 honestly 6400 is great, as good as, or better than, the D30, and D60, and even 20D were at 200iso, .

[@anthonyperkins1480]

25% in and you haven't told me anything useful. Goodbye.

[@roychavez519]

What's going on these days? It was: shot at ISO100, not to get grainy photos. Now everyone is saying the opposite. What's true?

[@roybladea6180]

In a future not far away new cameras will have the ability to cancel noise

[@GinoFoto]

My camera with AI RAW noise removal is able to actually capture usable 100K ISO images, approaching night vision territory with a bright prime lens. That being said, the base ISO is still the best ISO.

[@philmtx3fr]

No real scoop here but true things indeed. Just a rem’I don t think you need all that stuff you describe to use 100 iso… except if you live in England when you see the sun every 100 days 😂. I live in France and use 100 iso a lot and 64 when I can on my 10years old Nikon. Have a good day.

[@FireImageFM1]

Im a professional photographer i know what iso should on everytime i shoot

[@Randy_in_Pittsburgh]

Ummmm . . . . Congratulations?

[@jameshchetwyndjr9739]

Most professional shoot on tripe long exposure for landscape. Lo iso for exposure not blown out.

[@franklekwan5860]

Ten minutes of nonsense. The advice "keep your camera’s ISO as low as possible" is always correct. But setting the lowest ISO is not the highest priority of the exposure triangle, it is the lowest.

[@helsfury]

Well yes and no. Landscape,iso 100 is the go to. The problem with that is it has to be dead calm with no wind blowing. The rest of this stuff about high ISO being better. It is not.

[@bertnase9933]

Pros don't do it at ISO100! It depends on the ISO invariance of the sensor.

[@JorgeLopez-ub8dz]

So the rule of thumb still holds true. Use the lowest ISO that will give you a well lit sharp image. Clickbait.

[@justinjrebbert]

It might be beneficial if instead of saying “ISO 100”, you say “base ISO” instead. Base ISO is really what you’re talking about whenever you say “ISO 100”, but 100 is not the base ISO for all cameras. Most, yes, but not all. My Nikon Z9’s base ISO is 64, not 100. And no, “base ISO” does not mean the lowest possible ISO; again using the Z9 as an example, the lowest possible ISO is 32. What “base ISO” means is it’s the setting that allows for the greatest dynamic range from the sensor. So while this is 100 on many cameras, it’s not 100 on all cameras, so “base ISO” is more accurate.

[@PaulChoate-s4v]

If using high iso is so bad then why do they go up to 100,000 iso lol.

[@Photography-Explained]

Why can sports cars do 200 mph when the speed limit is 70 mph lol.

[@stevef2114]

ha in this day and age, there should be no one doing incorrectly exposed shots because its not photography anymore.. unless you are shooting film. Digital is more about a histogram for exposure.... and depending on your camera its far better to shoot lower isos and underexpose because you can bring up the exposure without any noise at all these days. You protect your highlights at all costs. Raw shooting also has basically given people the chance/reason to shoot incorrectly according to traditional photography because they can just adjust it later. If you understand fstops and depth of field, shutter speeds and their impact, iso isnt as important anymore. The traditional exposure triangle still applies, in how it all relates, but exposure in general doesnt have to be %100 correct anymore. It should be, but if it isnt its not a major. Which is why i still shoot film...cause its true photography :)

[@FireImageFM1]

I never use auto iso it is so amature as a photography

[@mickparly]

Great video, but next time don't be so fast with what you are doing and please slow down your talk. Give our eyes time to dwell at your graphical illustrations.

[@bigbluerios]

Subscribed thx

[@eclap78]

Load of waffle saying nothing. ISO always at lowest to achieve desired effect. No need for a 10 minute video.