The Ultimate Guide To O And O27 Turnouts

[@GreatLakesStateProductions6708]

I just got a very nice FREE lot of O-27 track, post war and MPC locomotives and rail cars. It also came with about 15 postwar left and right switches and have about every type of 0-27 switch in my collection now. So I’m very thankful you made this video. Helps a lot! Thank you!

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Happy to help!

[@GreatLakesStateProductions6708]

@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks unless you already made a video on it and I haven’t found it let me know. But I am planning on putting together a large floor based layout in my basement “man cave” and not sure what transformer I should get to power it. Was thinking a ZW but I would have to buy one. Which they aren’t too hard to find. So my video suggestion would be showing how much track each transformer can handle.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

@@GreatLakesStateProductions6708 The difference is not the amount of track, but the amount of power consumed by locomotives, accessories, etc. If you add feeder wires to the track every 5 feet or so the smallest transformer can run a locomotive on a layout the size of a stadium.

[@GreatLakesStateProductions6708]

@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks oh ok that makes sense. My plan would run 2-3 trains and multiple turnouts. With buildings.

[@richardsobieck9660]

Thank you. This is a great video discussing the O27 track and switches. Both O And O 27 are indeed O gauge and it grinds my cookies when people refer to it as O27 gauge. In fact the smaller profile rails are closer to O scale than O track which scales out to 30” tall in the real world. Hardly scale unless one is running a monorail. I found plenty of the 42” curved O27 switches and got lucky to find a seller willing to sell them to me complete at a very reasonable price. I found my larger radius curves while it was still being manufactured but it can still be found with a bit of patience. Now if we can get people to stop referring to rolling stock as O27 gauge cars. Many were made to be used in O27 sets but Lionel made very few items that were true O scale. Even the 6464 box cars are “Near scale”. They all run together and look fine.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

I'm glad I'm not the only one bugged by this.

[@BAKU2K2]

People probably call it "O-27 gauge" because unfortunately, that's how it was advertised by manufacturers.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

@@BAKU2K2 True. As I pointed out in a previous video about scale vs gauge, manufacturers will often refer to structures or details as "O Gauge". Smh

[@richardsobieck9660]

Feel free to send me a screenshot of a catalog page that shows this. They referred to the sets as O or O27 sets due to the track that came with each but both are O gauge and the all the trains run on it equally well. No different than Super O or the modern Fasttrack. Many cars were made for the O27 sets but they also included 6464 boxcars in these sets as well as the 6462 gondolas that were near scale. I have used nothing but O27 track in all my layouts and have had no problems with the trains running on it. And I believe the trains look much better on the smaller rails. Many believe there was differences between the wheels on O or O27 locos because of the three digit or 4 digit numbers used on them. I think this was an inventory system so they could be sure they had the locos for the sets as all those locos were identical in every other respect. Thanks for having this conversation with me.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Okay - a lot to unpack here. First, I'm unclear as to what you're asking in the first sentence. A screenshot that shows what, exactly? Otherwise, yes, you are correct that MOST of the time O and O27 products were interchangeable and it was just marketing deciding which were O and which were O27. Exceptions are the 221 steamer, an O27 loco that does NOT do well on O turnouts due to the spacing of the pickup rollers, the 700 Series steamers, which will NOT negotiate O27 curves or turnouts, and the Trainmasters. Likewise, F3s and GP7s - originally marketed as O gauge, will not pass through early 1122 (O27) turnouts. When Lionel decided to market SOME F3s as "O27" in 1953, the 1121 turnouts were redesigned to accommodate them. Also, as I discussed in this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/jXyUmmCff76ti5osi=rfrfwzTTiAwJtIi2 the 3/digit4/digit system only works for 600 Series/2000 Series Steamers, and the 622/6220 NW2. Lionel made A LOT of O27 steamers and diesels with 3-digit numbers. Also, passenger cars such as the "Madison" series and the 2500-Series aluminum cars will not clear O27 turnouts, nor will the #6418 or #6518 8-wheel flatcars.@@richardsobieck9660

[@modelrailpreservation]

O-27 gets a bad rap, but I don't feel it is really deserved. I built a dogbone loop for a store window display this past Christmas season, pair of 1121 switches, with an insulated running rail a section away on either branch to serve as non-derailing. This layout ran via a wall outlet timer, and setting the non-derailing a bit further back ensured if the power cut out for the night as the train was approaching the switch, the engine would not coast over the switch and derail. Anyway, those switches got track power. I could have rewired them for fixed voltage, but didn't. Train (1950 number 2023 and four freight cars) ran around 12 volts. Switches worked perfectly all season. The changing red and green light on the switches really helped draw attention to the store it was in.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Excellent! I did something similar back in the 90s with a shop display. The turnouts were wired so that the train would exit a tunnel via two alternating routes. The "Scooby Doo" effect kept people engaged and wondering "where will it come out this time?"

[@modelrailpreservation]

@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks I'm planning a Marx layout for myself like that. Just something to power up and run, no real operations, like switching, something for my living room to sit down in my recliner and watch. The dogbone I built looped under Christmas trees at either end, the display counter was only 34" deep so O-27 was the best choice. O-31 might have worked, but if the train would derail in the wrong place, the engine might fall off the counter, possibly striking a customer. The long straightaway was along the window, so time the train spent near the customer side of the display was minimal, thus chances to be grabbed by an over-eager young hand were minimal, and space for the store's mechandise was not comprimised, as the loops were under the tree, space otherwise unused, and 2 inches depth along the window was not much. Looked real pretty at night. The ALCO's lights, an upgraded 6257 caboose with interior lights and marker lamps from a Lionel 1688 added to the back, the 262 crossing gate I upgraded with a 252 style gate with red lights, and rewired the bulbs to flash via a 154c contacter. Certainly drew a lot of attention!

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

@@modelrailpreservation Sounds like a great layout!

[@modelrailpreservation]

@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks I had set up a dozen throughout town this past Christmas, built entirely with track, trains, accessories, and structures on loan from my own collection. No store had to pay anything for this. So far, I got five additional places lined up for next Christmas, and three stores so far, possibly four, now want permanent displays too. I tend to customize my equipment, like the added marker lanterns on the cabooses, makes it easier to track them down in case of theft, plus they look real good. Everything came home in good condition though and I got to talking with the shop owners, all said the same thing. Sales were way up, and the trains were bringing people in. These are mom and pop type stores, so it's good for the local economy. Plus it was a LOT of fun!

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

@@modelrailpreservation Wonderful!!!

[@stevencilento3364]

Mike another great and informative video. Happy New Year.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Thanks, you too!

[@SOU6900]

Thanks for making this one. Really gave me come considerations to help with a possible future setup.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Glad I could help!

[@SOU6900]

@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks Glad I could suggest a video. 😉 👍

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

@@SOU6900 Thank you!!!!!!

[@DRCRailroard]

Thanks for posting, Mike. This can be very useful information for guys looking to build a layout on a budget. I started my permanent layout 4 years ago. Fortunately, Menards just so happens to continue making the economically priced, tubular lionel style O-gauge high rail track, and I had already acquired a substantial supply of O track before I built my permanent layout. I had always planned to use the tubular track because I have and run a lot of conventional run postwar engines with magnetraction and just by coincidence I discovered along the way the abundance of track accessories one can acquire on a budget using this original track type. Plus it's very strong and durable and designed as a structural element to span suspended lengths without requiring any additional bracing, and it's easily custom cut to any length with a 4" grinder with a metal cutting blade. I even eliminated using 10" sections by cutting to the exact lengths by sing the 30" sections which eliminates for example, combing a 10" and a 5" piece and cut one continuous 15" section instead. This is a big advantage to be able to eliminate track joints especially on elevated sections supported only by girders or beams like trestles anchored at the ties.This allows the flexibility for one to custom cut your track plan to fit the space and between turnouts or UCS contol track sections. I have my lower loops and yard interconnected using the 1590 Marx turnouts shimed to the height of O-gauge track. They are easy to modify without opening them up to do so. I wired them to Lionel controllers and wired them for auto non-derail features and wired them to block signals to indicate direction of travel. These switches provided for very smooth running similar to the track itself because of the open design. I have a dog bone loop at one end of my main loop where my yard is located and can change direction but if I do I can't reverse direction without backing through the turnouts. I was pleasantly surprised how effortlessly I was able to back long consists through both turnouts while also simultaneously going around the curve of the dog bone without derailments. However, the dog bone loop is laid with super elevated 042 curve sections but I do believe the frogless design is definitely a contributing factor to achieving this feat so effortlessly. Since my ladder yard is in-between the turnouts of the dog bone and the curve, I use this as a run around track to pull cars on and off the main line using the manual Marx turnouts for my ladder yard. I painted my track and added custom made wooden cedar ties cut to fit inside the metal ties out of old weathered cedar fence boards, sanded the corners and stained with acrylic craft paint and ballasted with the cheapest sifted clay Walmart kitty liter and it turned out better than I had expected. I made my own ballast spreader from a 16 oz plastic Kroger potato salad container and a piece of Masonite in 10 minutes using only my table saw and a razor knife. I use the the leftover sifted kitty liter as coal loads glued to scrap pieces of 1/2" plywood cut to fit the hoppers and paited black. It is possible to take up this part of the hobby on a budget if you use just a bit of your imagination to realize the possibilities. I find it helps if you have a bit of the MacGyver mentality also. Happy rails

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Thanks for the tips!

[@JohnThomas-lq5qp]

We had the more realistic American Flyer track with two rails. Had two pairs of switched that with the think it was 4 flat cable that had 4 different colors you connected red wire to red post on switch & so on. Soldered all of my track together and soldered wires onto tracks every 3' to not loose voltage at furthest from transformer.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Nice setup. Thanks for sharing!

[@105C09]

Very informative Thanks for all the videos as Iam an old hat and jogger. Appreciating the cost and durability of the older trains: American Flyer, Lionel and Marx. I love them all. Blessings , Bill

[@OthmarsVlog]

amazing . . . well done & thumbs up 👍🍀💯

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Thank you 👍

[@mypugsdad5366]

I find the Marx turnouts for O-27 a good choice easy to fix easy to find and they seem to never break. thanks for the video. As always great video.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Thanks! Cheap and durable!!

[@jenniferwhitewolf3784]

I use regular O traditional track. My favorite turnout is the K-Line 0-72, followed by the Lionel in the 72" curve. The other one I use is the Lionel O-22, that matches standard 31 inch curves. One of these days I'll put together a Marx specific setup and will need to find some of their frog-less turnouts.. I have some crossings and plenty of other lower profile O-27 style track now... This is a VERY useful video. I appreciate your taking the time to make it for us. You have given me answers to several questions, and covered some products that I was not really knowledgeable on at all. Nice!

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

I'm glad you found it useful!

[@charlesdempsey176]

I use Lionel Fastrack. The main drawback is the sound the train makes rolling over it. This video was helpful. I learned a lot from it. Thank you!

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Glad it helped!

[@TheCreativeMind]

Excellent detailed video. Lots of information given on all the switches. What I often find online is that some users don't know that the insulating pin goes on the outer curve of the 022 switch. Are there any other switches like this?

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Drat! I forgot to mention that. I don't know if any others like the O22.

[@delwoodjef]

A well done video.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Thank you!

[@drummerdave_a]

Another very informative video, Mike! I started out with Marx O27 plastic turnouts but had the issue you mentioned concerning derailments from the spring-loaded gard rails. I swapped them out for Lionel 1122's and problem solved. I really appreciate and enjoy your videos. Thank you!

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@matthewwilson9832]

Great video thank you

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@zanelindsay1267]

Good info and great presentation. Old track and turnouts can often be obtained cheap if you don't mind the work of cleaning them up and troubleshooting turnout mechanisms.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Absolutely!

[@johnknippenberg-LandmarkYards]

Great video! I use 1121's because of the few Marx geared wheel engines I have.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Good choice!

[@andrewwanitz320]

I believe that the Czech manufacturer MERKUR still makes tubular o guage switches as well.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Thanks for the info!

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

They look like good quality if you can find a US source.

[@BAKU2K2]

Currently, I have Lionel 012, 1024, 1121, and MPC 6-5121 (modified to better accommodate fat wheels), as well as Chicago-era American Flyer 465 turnouts. I am currently searching for Hornby crossover and parallel points (something I've not seen any American manufacturers produce back then except Ives), American Flyer 675 O-40 turnouts, and Lionel 711 O-72 turnouts.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

That's quite a collection! Thanks for sharing!

[@74volts]

Great stuff, I love that old stuff!

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Thanks!!

[@winnepoo9788]

I use pre war 1121 switches on my layout. I have modified them to use transformer power for operations, as well as supplying power to the track for train operations so I don’t need lock ons. Great video, love you channel.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Thanks. That sounds like quite a project!!

[@markattardo]

Very helpful! I just got a couple switches similar to the 1121s with a prewar Lionel 1666 set and couldn't understand the track pins near the frog😂😂 Keep up the great content...please👍👍

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Happy to help!!

[@rogerbathory925]

😊THANKS FOR INFO😊

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Happy to help!

[@TheBassPlayer100]

Menards is making three-rail 0-gauge turnouts now. Just released an 0-72 as well and at good prices.

[@angryrailfan5711]

I’ve discovered that there are two variations of 1122s. The earlier one has a wide switch housing that won’t clear full size O cars, the later one has a narrower housing that clears gps and O cars.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Yes. That's in the video.

[@angryrailfan5711]

Sorry I missed putting 1952 before 1122. There are two variations of 1952 1122s one will clear gps and longer cars and the other doesn’t. You appear to have the late or at least I assume is later 1952 housing. You can tell this by how the end of the switch housing near the binding posts is narrow like the 53 switches and how the corner near the plug is contoured.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

@@angryrailfan5711 Thanks for the information!!!!

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

F3s won't clear mine.

[@angryrailfan5711]

Interesting. I’d mess around with mine but I don’t have F3s and I think one of the 1122’s is worn out and shorts through the plastic.

[@OgaugeTrainsplusslotCars]

Great information

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Glad it was helpful!

[@scaleyardmarine]

Fabulous thanks

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Most welcome 😊

[@paulbervid1610]

Great video

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Thanks!!

[@kirkwalsh1932]

What is the curve on the 022 switch? I've searched for an answer but nothing is listed for the actual curve. Thanks for the video's.

[@kirkwalsh1932]

031 curve. Had to watch it again...lol

[@josephbrandtner7713]

Do you know the part number or the proper Lionel name for the plug and wires used to directly power the turnouts from the Lionel power pack/controller?

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

For the model O22 O31 diameter turnouts, it's the #711-151 Fixed Voltage Plug.

[@ericmarc7529]

I'm so grateful for your channel 🙏 Please read 🙏 🙏 🙏 I got a 90s starter freight set in 2001 at 9 yrs old but for 23 yrs I havnt been able to do anything with it. Until now 😊 I bought two tinplate sets and a 1957 set. Your content helped me get them up and running! Thank you for helping 🙏 Just in case: I am looking for additional track and accessories for standard 0 gauge: a couple turnout extension pieces for the 1990s Lionel Turnout versions. Lockons, 90°/45° cross sections, and the plastic red/green lantern (and bulbs) for the 022 turnouts and the previously mentioned 1990's turnout version (very limited run). I'm having HUGE difficulty finding parts I need to build my layout for prewar and postwar trains/accessories. Whenever I do find a site/dealer everything is sold out. Please, would someone be kind enough to help me with this and possibly to address any other ?'s that may pop up? Thank you for reading and enjoy your trains!! ☺️

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

The "turnout extensions" may be the hardest part to acquire since those turnouts were made for such a short time. Any good dealer should have 90/45 crossings, or you can find them at a good local train show. Lockons should also be easy to find, or you can make your own by using spade connectors and pushing the wires into the gap on the bottom of the track. You may have to go with reproduction lanterns, which can be found here: amzn.to/4jcwkN2

[@roccodirico9737]

Very good video. Does anyone know what year Ives started making 027 tubular track?

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

After checking multiple sources, the best answer I can come up with is sometime prior to 1927.

[@roccodirico9737]

@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks Thank you so much for your answer. I know that when Lionel took over Ives they continued making their 027 tubular track but I could never figure out when Ives first introduced 027. HAPPY NEW YEAR from 11102.

[@jamesmorgangunsandtrains7132]

I have used Marx with success . The one you didn’t mention was the American flyer frogless design in o gauge. These are very similar to Marx but have a 31 or larger radius . I have 2 of these on my current layout, they are plentiful on the bay. I also have 2 of the Ross Ross plate turnouts in #4 , these are really nice but like you said pricy……

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

True I didn't mention the Flyer turnouts, which I believe are O40. I have seen them on eBay but I have never seen one in the flesh.

[@weekendrailroader]

Lionel 1122 turnouts suffer from a laughably short check rail on the diverging route, which will cause 2-axle long-wheelbase rolling stock (such as Marx 6 or 8 inch tinplate and plastic cars) to derail. If you're handy though, you can remove that cast-in plastic check rail and fashion your own, much longer checkrail that will guide those long wheelbase 2-axle cars through without issue.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

If that's an issue, it would be easier to add an insulated rail section adjacent to the turnout rather than modify the turnout, much as I do with Marx turnouts. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jKG2moScpduipKcsi=WXq4YDmnflTk782v

[@weekendrailroader]

@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks This derailing issue has nothing to do with the position of the points. The cause is the cast-in checkrail/guardrail not being long enough. When making a facing point move on the diverging route, the backside of the lead wheel that is riding on the outside stock rail isn't guided away from the frog because the checkrail is too short/begins too late. The wheelset instead ends up slipping behind or riding up and over the checkrail, resulting in a derailment. Lengthening the checkrail solves the issue. The short checkrail is not an issue for cars with trucks, only for 2 axle, long wheelbase cars.

[@TrainBandit]

Because of the non detailing feature, can postwar lionel 022 switch moters burn out because of constant power

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

If they are activated too long, such as having a train parked on the switch for a long time, yes.

[@jamesf791]

I have a feeling that Menard's will be manufacturing turnouts since they have been manufacturing tubular track and now have 2 different sets they are selling.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

It's possible, but with so many O22 turnouts available on the secondary market it will be tough to hit a price point that will make folks go for new over cheap.

[@paulviera8971]

I would like to know are ross tracks and turnouts compatible with mernards tubular tracks. thank you

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Menards track pieces are Lionel clones. Anything that works with Lionel O gauge track works with Menards.

[@MMitchellMarmel]

Don't forget 1022 manual switches! You can use their antiderail function to make powered and unpowered blocks! :)

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Good tip.

[@rjstandland4459]

The linel switch some light bulbs get so hot that thay will melt the plastic That if you running stuff with a wireless remote

[@drummerdave_a]

I have all Lionel 1122's and swapped the bulbs out with LED's. They look better and have no heat.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

LEDs are an easy replacement. Also, if you're running LionChief, Menards, etc you CAN turn down the transformer voltage to 14-16 volts without negatively impacting train performance.

[@rjstandland4459]

Good to know

[@chasesrailwaylinesrr6447]

I use Marx plastic turn out. they work They just sometimes cause a derail

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

I never had any luck with them. With a train coming from the facing points and taking the diverging curve all of my Lionel locomotives derailed 100 percent of the time. I experimented with adding guardrails, which helped, but I ultimately decided they were too much trouble and sold them to a Marx guy.

[@chasesrailwaylinesrr6447]

don't have as many lionel locomotives as marx ones the locomotives work on it they derail when Trying to divert on to the curve but going through it every other direction works. Do you have any advice on how to make it better?

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

@@chasesrailwaylinesrr6447 Without guardrails the locomotives will jump the frog. I never found a solution.

[@chasesrailwaylinesrr6447]

i only have the marx plastic turnouts because I dont know as much about o scale as ho and Yes that's the problem both my bud car and General they hop the frog they don't going out of it but do going into jt. thanks for this video explaining different turnouts

[@jackcurran1122]

O-27 and O Guage track is so easy to work with. Someone needs to get the dies and start remaking those switches

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Menards just began making O profile O27 turnouts.

[@jackcurran1122]

@@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks Thanks

[@wayneantoniazzi2706]

An interest turnout not mentioned is one Marx made back in the 1960s that was a manual model, that is to make the switch a plastic lever on the turnout was thrown just like it's real-life counterpart. An additional benefit was when the switch was set for the mainline power was cut to the siding or inner loop and to the mainline if the siding or inner loop was in use. A sure-fire way to prevent collisions! Sorry but I don't know the model number, I haven't seen one in years either but then I haven't been looking.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

I believe that's the Lionel #1022 turnout for O27 track.

[@MustangsTrainsMowers]

Switches have become so expensive that if I had the time I’d make my own switches by combining Menards straights and curves.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Interesting.

[@larryberger9440]

I would like to add something that you may not be aware of. Ross switch are no good to run prewar tinplate trains on. The inner guide rail at the turn out is not tapered but presents a blunt end to the train. The tinplate trains that have a sliding shoe for uncoupling nd operating the say dump when the sliding shoe hist this blunt end of the guide rail many times the shoe is broken off and so the operation of coupler and dumping become non-functional. I have had this happen to my tinplate cars a number of times at my club layout before I realized that Roos switches are NO good for pre-war tin cars .And I am sure you know how hard it is to repair these broken off sliding shoes. Another note you might not be aware of is that Gargraves track is not very magnetic and so any little grade when operating a magnetraction locos such as a Santa Fe F3 or 671 turbine will have a hard time pulling a string of the Lionel 2500 series of aluminum passenger cars up even a slight incline let along the Lionel graduated trestle sets. Unfortuniially the club layout was completed before I joined and so the high rail layout as it were has Gargraves track and Ross switches. This is fine for the more modern traction tires locos but not good fo any of the classic Lionic magnetraction engines. Thanks for the nice video on the switches.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Thanks for the input regard Ross turnouts. As for Gargraves, it depends. They make their track in both stainless steel and tinplated versions. The tinplated does works quite well with magnetraction. www.gargraves.com/Flex%202.html

[@IndianaNorthWestern]

I have a mix of all the lionel O-27 ones, only one of them actually works and the oldest ones are so rusted out I just use them as hand throw switches on temporary layouts. I have one 022 turnout and it doesn't seem to work at all, even the non derailing feature, pretty certain it's burnt out, kinda sad because it is a beautiful turnout, but it's just one of those things I have as a "historical piece" like my absolutely 90 watt transformer (the windings on the transformer have been smashed together and shorted by the arm that is connected to the handle) This is why I do HO, I don't have to use 70 year old track, and it's easy to just make my own turnouts, which is the plan if I ever make an O gauge layout that isn't the shelf setup I have now.

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

Well, you don't HAVE to use 70 year old track for O/O27 (FasTrack, Atlas, Gargraves, Ross, etc) but it is common and economical. I find that it takes A LOT of abuse to kill one of these Postwar turnouts. It's likely that with enough motivation you could clean them out and get them working again. I haven't done HO since the 90s, but I recall burning out a lot of HO switch machines and having to replace points and frogs periodically from wear and tear.

[@franktino6676]

Menards makes and sells 027 tubular track for reasonable prices. They do not as of current, make turnouts.

[@asher6657]

i wqant to find a club near me so badly..... i love lionel pikes, but I gave away my 1977 set. wait....do they still call them 'pikes'???

[@ToyTrainTipsAndTricks]

"pikes" is not used frequently, but is still a valid term.