THE WALK OF SHAME (Almost Failing Plumbing Inspection)

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CREDITS
“Afterthought” by Evan Schaeffer ( / evanschaeffer )

[@shaneparker7371]

I have been watching your channel from the beginning. My wife and I live in Rural Oklahoma and have built our own off grid homestead. My wife is always confused when I watch your videos without headphones. She always thinks that when Alyssa is talking it is her. Gets her every time. Can't wait to see the finished product.

[@jasondonnelly8940]

Way late to give advice , but if u apply teflon first , then pipe dope it'll never leak . I've been plumbing for 15 years and tried many different combinations . If it was me I would have gone with pvc instead of abs ( it's a little more rigid ) .I enjoy your videos and admire your courage . Keep up the good work.

[@rgknowlton1]

I love honest videos that show successes along with mistakes and lessons learned.

[@rgknowlton1]

That's o.k. with me, Stephen. They aren't perfect human beings and neither am I. I learn from my ignorance, too.

[@jamesthompson4800]

Tip : on the plastic to metal compression, warm the plastic end around that metal and then tighten the clamps so the plastic conforms to the metal fitting better. Might not be necessary , but just seems good to me.

[@Georges3DPrinters]

So happy you removed the connection from under the pad. Anything under concrete pad you try to avoid as many points of failure as possible. Hence why no connection allowed under house. If line leaks, then you get the sinkhole effect, especially for you on a hill, and will wash away the dirt under the house. I would recommend two sensors, redundancy, that detect moisture in soil. Get a decent set of two, one by main inside of house, one by main connection. Just a simple way to detect an underground water leak, or surrounding area soil moisture level reader. Erosion control is all different now but I know you have already thought of that, was just stating for reason to maybe want a moisture sensor in ground.

[@grafflifelinkone]

As a licensed plumber this hurts to watch... yet I can't look away

[@ICooke11]

Grafflifelinkone linkos Same here. Would have saved time and money by getting a plumber. Not to mention the $500 + they spent on fernco caps, and wasted pipe and fittings.

[@genepatrick]

Did anyone else notice that in the last few seconds of the video where he was talking about the pressure being over 100 psi that the valve was closed. Meaning that the pressure wasn't in the line it was between the gauge in the valve .... basically testing nothing .... (12:56 time stamp)

[@philno]

hmmmm......... we'll see tomorrow, you know if thats whats happened they're going to tell us

[@met9009]

The thing is they don't read these posts, the question is now will the inspector notice? lol

[@8056443232]

Yes. I admit I yelled at my monitor at that point. But I figured: if they are sending the inspector a photo of the gauge, they will catch it. Also: it's just a one-piece section of pipe from a valve to a valve. Not much chance of a leak unless they burned a hole in the poly.

[@butopiatoo]

genepat rick rut rho......

[@TheUncommonKIBBLES]

the valve is also installed backwards..

[@CandleMFG]

Tip: Channel locks are designed to be used where you are pulling down from the top -- notice the teeth (groves in the jaws). PS --- Awesome Build, Keep it up!

[@Sceme1991]

It matters which way you hold those pipe wrench pliers. They're supposed to tighten the harder you pull so if they're slipping you gotta rotate them the other way.

[@smcox1991]

Funny thing is I was thinking to myself that a fitting under the slab was probably a bad idea.

[@zagonicsaba]

If you check the pressure gauge, with that big valve closed, than you are not seeing how much pressure is the whole system holding (what is what you are interested about), you only see how much pressure is in the fittings between the valve and the gauge. This way the pipe could be leaking without you noticing.

[@thomasforthe9274]

It wouldn't be a construction project without redoing something. As redos go that was a small one. I know it may not seem like it, but it really was. I have pictures of hvac sticking out of walls and ceilings. I even got paid to redo the hvac in an entire motel once and most of a gulf coast condo that needed saved from someone else's mistake. Not that I was immune to messing things up once in a while.

[@jerrysparks725]

Man that is awesome that couple came all that way to help, its great making new friends

[@jtwelch4]

Jessie, Alyssa...I can't tell you how much we enjoy your "journey." The fact that your videos are not "sterilized" is refreshing to us DIY'ers. I do most of my work myself, although not to the extent y'all are doing it. Keep up the good work, God's speed.

[@weedygarden]

No shame, every move and piece has its own rules and guidelines. Everyday you are moving forward and doing a great job!

[@tooterplumber1128]

This is just a suggestion: Hire a professional for plumbing and electrical. If the inspector passed it with a picture of the gauge with the valve closed and no stakes to hold plumbing in place. Then I do not want him or her near my house.

[@offgridsweden]

That sucks to have to dig that up again. Just keep on and it will be done before you know it. Greetings from Andreas on Off Grid Sweden

[@vicarioustraveler1507]

I'm sorry if you've been hassled about the way you use your channel lock pliers, but I see you both working them backwards. You will slip less if you use them in the right direction. Thanks for the videos.

[@ShipCreek]

Oh you poor buggers.....aaaarrggghh! At least I know now that plumbers earn their keep😀

[@cycletivity3584]

That sucks, but best not to have a polypipe connection under your slab regardless of what any inspector says.

[@Georges3DPrinters]

Pipe wrench or pliers will scratch the brass, large crescent wrench are expensive, so channel locks/ adjustable large mouth pliers to the budget rescue! However, I have one thing to say on using the tool, you where using it backwards, one way you get far better grip, it's the design of the angle that keeps it there, smaller jaw should lead the turn, larger one "hooks around" and follows. That sorta makes sense right? Anyway, the handle will want to turn open killing your grip, the right way holds far better, and helps promote the grip. If using two for example as you did, then both tools will face each other,

[@thinkfirst6431]

You are right about the proper use of tools but really who cares about scratching a brass part that no one will see or maybe once in a while if there is a need to turn off the water. Water pump pliers will always have a place in the tool box. The problem is that most all people who use them use them for the wrong application and are not strong enough to use them effectively or for the right application. An adjustable end wrench is good for hard materials but with even a slight miss-adjustment will round the corners of the flat surface that you are trying to turn. 2 pipe wrenches would have been more effective as they only work in 1 direction, will bite into the brass to eliminate slipping, and require no squeezing to apply force for clamping. It's brass don't deform it and it will work for a very long time no matter what it looks like.

[@DIYTechRepairs]

Ouch that sucks to dig it up again! Shit happens though and you miss things as new to the building codes. I have done it too and the important part is to redo the work and get it right!

[@EMFMiner]

Don't feel too bad... you're still gaining subs and your house isn't sitting in 5 feet of water.

[@massimoserra4787]

I missed a more friendly presentation of your volunteers after the long way from Missouri they made. Made be next time.

[@kevinfinney8849]

Keep after it, one small step every day! I used ICF for my shop some years ago when finishing the interior walls I used 3/4" plywood then covered with sheet rock. That allowed me to hang cabinets & racks anywhere, just a thought its worked well for 14 yrs.

[@purelivingforlife]

+kevin Finney Nice tip! Those in block studs are strong but distributing the weight wouldn't hurt in heavier items.

[@ShevillMathers]

Like how he uses all the right terminology in his gab fest but does not know what they mean - they must have a money tree too!

[@pcking2008]

Thumbs up for the Star of the show. Mr. Bugaboo. He seems like a happy kitty and has a great purrr. Angel from The Bay

[@chrism2042]

Yes it is code but underslab is not the place to have a potential leak. Mark it off as an oh-well and realize changing it was much better than busting up your basement floor in a couple years.

[@jbtcajun5260]

When using pliers , cresent, moving jaw should be in direction of torque. This works with you instead aginst. Notice channel locks were slipping when properly done there bairly needs to be any pressure on the movable lever.

[@craftybear01]

"If only I had some spare concrete formers and some 4 inch rigid drain pipe I could build me a maintenance chamber around this pipework and lay the water line in a channel just in case I need to get at it in 5yrs time. Such a pity I don't have stuff like that lying around on site" *trips over a stack of pipe and lands on a pile of spare ICF*

[@jedidiah5131]

All you need is an access point at the wall and I know many places are not allowed to have any opening in a basement floor other than drains, which obviously are piped in most cases. /Did you change your profile name again?

[@craftybear01]

Nope not in floor of garage, a proper maintenance chamber outside around the water inlet when all those pipes start leaking.

[@50shadesofgreen]

oh well at least you got it signed off now !! awesome guy, keep up the good work !! thanks for sharing

[@Carlzday]

BTW... radiant heat lines need to be a single line as well to and from the the manifold --make sure you have enough.... i've seen 100's of feet get tossed because it was to short ...can't splice it at all

[@8056443232]

I'm so sorry you had to replace that! I know you have so much input, and you can't take it all in, but the second I saw you putting that joint in, and then figured that you were going to leave it under the slab? Oh man. And THEN you reported that they told you "one connection" was ok? Again - oh man. But look at it this way: you won't make that mistake on the guesthouse! :-)

[@HurricaneCoolbreeze]

On my first job as a General Contractor I hired a professional plumber to do the supply and drain lines on an old mansion that I added two bathrooms to. I was shocked when the inspector told us the supply lines would have to be redone since the plumber installed all the rough plumbing with fittings under a soon to be poured slab. Moral to this story is some professionals don't even know the code. I feel your pain kids as I had to pay for all mistakes this plumber of mine made. I only used well experienced sub contractors after this. Otherwise I think you're doing a fine job.

[@georgesmith7773]

LMFAO. there's the first "I told you so"

[@stevenbaumann8692]

I see Bugaboo conducted his inspections.

[@VenturiLife]

I thought it was weird doing a connection under a slab...

[@northpolltv6598]

Good of you to show your mistakes too. Learned something in building my own house - the axiom "Measure twice cut once" applies well to all construction in the analogy, "Know what the heck you're doing before you do anything".

[@timon0x31]

Just a thought. If it's allowed where your at, I'd take some of the 1/8" thick foam that's used between two separate concrete pours and wrap that around anything going through the slab so it lets them move. Once the floor above is built you can cut some out so you caulk around the pipes.

[@gaetait92]

I enjoy watching these and I admire the way they admit their mistakes but I have to say that either they are absolutely incapable of planning or they are making these mistakes on purpose to keep us all fascinated by a "how not to do it" project. With the time and money they've already spent half their house could already be built.

[@hawaiianlaker]

Albert Girard probably just oversight from working as much as they are. They need to slow it down.

[@MisterGreenGuy]

If you can wrap your risers or cover any pipe with plastic that will be in contact with concrete. ESPECIALLY the water line rising up through the slab. Also, you nicked the supply line on the other side of the tee with your cutters. Any slight bend against that nick in the pipe will cause it to split in that spot. Every nick or slight cut in any pex or plastic water piping should be replaced. Trust me, been doing this for 20 years. You can test it yourself. Take a piece of supply line (have plenty scrap now) and very slightly scour it with your cutters, then bend it. It will easily split open.

[@dernolddodge]

I've really enjoy watching yalls videos of your home build. Y'all work really well together. I envy your patience.

[@markduncan6690]

Great Music!! Wonderful viewing to start the day! You two are great!!

[@williame.durstsr.5804]

In my opinion you should have went with the three tanks for your cistern that would have gave you more water in case of fire

[@zagonicsaba]

Why didn't you use a protection pipe for the water main line (pipe in pipe method) that you could have buried in the ground the same level that the outside connection is, and bringing it out/up thru the slab in the mechanical room from where the distribution start. This way if later you'd have any kind of problem with that pipe, you could just pull it out of the protection pipe and pull in a new pipe, without digging up the finished floor of your house. Protection pipe can be a corrugated HDPE, 2-3 diameters bigger than the main pipe. At the outside connection, that you had to dig up, you should be digging it around, and make some kind of concrete box in the ground, with a lid on it for being able to access that connection point anytime is needed. Just my opinions.

[@jerrysparks725]

good idea

[@stevelalondejr2183]

That's a given in my area generally as a rule in new type construction but not always as we have no codes per say.

[@RobertShaverOfAustin]

When I was a tike, early '50s, my Dad built our house based on an anti-aircraft gun tower overlooking a shipyard on the west coast. He was a journeyman cabinetmaker, a journeyman gazer and all around savvy guy around construction. He wired the whole house. When the inspector got done he told my dad it looked like a pro job except for one thing. "You have to run a single #18 copper wire around to every outlet in the house with no breaks or splices, then to the single house ground point. You can run it over the surface of the studs and cover it later with whatever wallboard you use." My Dad had never heard of this but did as directed and called for an inspection. A different inspector came out and told my Dad that it looked like a pro job ... but ... "what was this copper wire running to every box for?" My Dad told him the other inspector had said code required it. The new inspector said, "Oh, well that's just for commercial buildings to prevent electrolysis and then only on the ground floor." My Dad lodged a grievance but all they said was that the first inspector was new and that the page in his code book had blown over to the commercial section. After that my Dad did everything without a permit and never called for another inspection. That was about 60 years ago. So I hope your plumbing inspector really knew what he was talking about, because your story sounds a bit like this one for the middle of the last century.

[@MisterGreenGuy]

His inspector was 100 percent correct. NO connections on water line under slab on new constriction. You're begging for a slab leak. That fitting has a MUCH higher chance of leaking in the future than one single continuous line. Inspector did him a favor, because when that connection under slab leaked it would mean jack hammering the floor up to make a repair.

[@MS-gf3zo]

Be Safe. I hope you both best wishes getting your house raised . I'm Santi a Female Veteran stuck in Texas, originally a Puerto Rican from Chicago .

[@caseyarmstrong7064]

Hey guys first of all i would like to say kudos to you for doing all this yourself. And I understand that some of this is a learning stage for you guys. I am a journeyman plumber here in the USA, and I am shocked that the inspector allowed you to use a hose barbed fitting and hose clamps for the connection of your main water line to your house. Maybe it's code where your at. But if you have different variations in water pressure, you could have a blow out. Just wanted to give my 2 since. But congrats to you guys for doing this. Be safe

[@parallelburrito]

Proof pressure testing ensures any variation in pressure will hold.

[@tzapper5755]

casey armstrong maybe it has something to do with the soil content. Here on the Virginia coast, no underground connections. Those fittings would never last in our soil. Only underground fittings allowed have to be in a box and accessible. But, there is not here.....I would still box around it with bricks and lay a concrete lid on it for future repair. It will make a huge mess if it gives out and it goes unnoticed while creating a cavern under the foundation and slab. At least if it's boxed in the water will run out the top and be noticeable before creating too much damage.

[@ejs1862]

Not that it helps now, but tongue and groove pliers (commonly referred to by brand name Channellock) have a "right" way and a "wrong" way.

[@warrenmichael918]

test gauge was on but valve was closed, tested from gauge down 3 inches to the closed valve ? Gotta leave the valve open to test the line !

[@InvalidMemberAccount]

test gauge was on but valve was closed, tested from gauge down 3 inches to the closed valve ? Gotta leave the valve open to test the line !test gauge was on but valve was closed, tested from gauge down 3 inches to the closed valve ? Gotta leave the valve open to test the line !test gauge was on but valve was closed, tested from gauge down 3 inches to the closed valve ? Gotta leave the valve open to test the line !test gauge was on but valve was closed, tested from gauge down 3 inches to the closed valve ? Gotta leave the valve open to test the line !test gauge was on but valve was closed, tested from gauge down 3 inches to the closed valve ? Gotta leave the valve open to test the line !test gauge was on but valve was closed, tested from gauge down 3 inches to the closed valve ? Gotta leave the valve open to test the line !

[@eosjoe565]

With the multiple calls to the "engineer" and the multitudes of photos sent to the plumber... how was that connection missed?

[@SeptrothFFXI]

EOSJOE they said in a previous video their engineer was not a plumbing guy so it's likely that the engineer can draw up plans for a house's structure and make sure it won't fall over but may not know all the plumbing codes in the area

[@mrpipeshere]

The plumbing in the house should go much better for them with beams, studs and joists in the way.

[@morrow.m]

Sucks to have to redo it but in the long run it is so much better now. Thanks for sharing the parts that suck and maybe even embarrassing. Y'all are awesome.

[@carolynbeckman6607]

Look on the bright side you can use that for your garden or shop and it's all about learning hang in there

[@GeordsYouTube]

The next up section at the end of the video, is going to make the wait for the next episode so much harder lol.. Keep up the good work... every project after this one is going to seem so easy

[@wheelairrentals7132]

Channel Locks only work one way!

[@RJSoftware2000]

I'm a fan now. Only suggestion is you number the videos, not sure what is in what order. But you guys got great chemistry.

[@ybnormal707]

Was it me or are you just pressure testing the last fitting since that valve was in the off position?

[@joshb8302]

Kevin P I came to the comments to ask the same thing.

[@theAppleWizz]

where point to the time I wan't to see

[@joshb8302]

theAppleWizz 12:40

[@5argetech56]

Hey, it's getting dark. Funny how that happens everyday...........😁😁😁

[@Axbear]

Are those hose clamps rust proof? Also the screws in the clamps. Overe here it would be a big No No to use such clamps.

[@Gunbudder]

most hose clamps like that use a stainless strap. the better question is if the screw is stainless. i can't count how many old pipe clamps i've found with a rusty nub where the head of the screw was :(

[@bruceoronte8696]

We have way stricter plumb and elec. codes here in New England and I think the code officer won't like that valve close either.

[@verohandymike]

I don't think that connection under your slab would have been a problem...the one outside your wall would have eventually been one and you would never been able to figure it out. In about 10 years you would start to wonder why your water consumption has suddenly doubled!

[@danvincent14400]

you can use a hair blow dryer to heat up the plastic pipe wont damage to pipe as much as a torch , more even heat also

[@jamesweil3470]

If you turn the fitting the right direction it will come off and use two wrenches one on the barbed fitting in the pipe and one on the valve it will make life a lot easier

[@scottfoster2487]

This why in every house i have ever worked on from new we installed a few sizes of conduit in case of future update or need for new technology.

[@1961casey]

"That's gonna have to come off there with a wrench" and then proceeds to use pliers. (oops)

[@deathlokmk1]

I work for a plumbing company, and from what I'm seeing your supply line is a bit of overkill. Unless your planning to put out fires. Mind you Oregon may have some codes I don't know about, but I've never installed a supply line over 1", and that was on houses up to 4000 sq ft.

[@ikeaviking]

Aaron Horst they talk about the 2" in their water system videos. The 2" is because of the gravity feed, to make up for the low overall height of the tanks to the house they increased the flow to increase the pressure a bit. Same concept as high current low voltage but the wattage equals out.

[@farmerbob5341]

Jacob Atkins Only elevation changes press not volume. It's called hydraulics

[@duffyanneal]

Not quite Farmer Bob. You would be correct if they maintained the same diameter pipe throughout the system. If they reduce the pipe diameter (which they must do when they connect to the fixtures or just prior) the pressure will increase. The most basic equation for pressure is force divided by area. Pressure will increase as the area decreases. A more accurate way to calculate this would be to use Bernoulii's equation. Check out the link for details. www.dummies.com/education/science/physics/use-bernoullis-equation-to-calculate-pressure-difference-between-two-points/

[@billr2996]

Jacob Atkins you can’t increase static pressure by increasing the size of pipe. Static Pressure is increase by either height or with a pump. To increase the static pressure by height they would need a taller hill behind them for the cisterns to be on. Static pressure is increased or decreased by elevation gain or loss. You can increase the water volume by sizing up the pipe but not pressure.

[@horus909]

but would larger pipe increase dynamic pressure, ie when you turn a fixture on, there is less pressure drop?

[@benallen2967]

Would fusion weld or other real HDPE connections have helped? Good to see the mess of barb fittings removed.

[@64maxpower]

No shame.you all are doing an amazing job

[@kbranger3498]

Never mind all these negitive comments!! You two are doing it!! The road is and will be tough, but hang in there!:)! Looking great!

[@WaterDesignirrigation]

Your asking for trouble using those clamps! I'm an irrigation contractor for 27 years.

[@edbenson98]

I'm having trouble seeing in the dark again but the crickets are loving it!

[@SFtruckerWolf]

That kind of tighteners are never used here in norther europe on water pipes, on garden and cars they are good. We have there like hydraulic conection on pipes. Can so conection make everywhere and how many want. Then is also system where can weld both pipes like one peace with special muff together. Costing more, but 100% sure.

[@ronfarve2268]

The string method cutting PVC pipe works great. I use it all of the time in my work. A few rules to know however. This method works from friction so any water in the pipe will prevent the pipe from cutting. The string will just slide over the pipe if its wet. The other thing is twisted twine works best. For some reason braided twine will not work.

[@ronfarve2268]

Bill23799 that would work fine. They actually make a saw from small aircraft cable with two handles but after you put it under tension from the cutting it kinks up and gets hard to work with

[@peuwpe]

Don't know why KZbin thought I should watch this but I find myself hooked. Also I feel like I want to build a house and not build a house at the same time. Good luck you guys, hope everything goes well for you.

[@RookieLock]

Man I love the sound of a cuddley cats purrrrrr... Great video btw ;P

[@jeffsims7386]

Channel locks and adjustable wrenches are directional ;) And the inspector is probably going to want to see the pipe hold pressure, not the temporary manifold.

[@roboterson]

Find one reputable source that says that adjustable wrenches are directional. Go and do the tests yourself and you will find adjustable wrenches don't care.

[@PassionforWoodworking]

Roboterson I use them every day and they are directional lol. The work for you one way and against you the other.

[@warrenmichael918]

i commented on the gauge to valve that was closed also !! LOL

[@jlastre]

Roboterson How to properly use an adjustable wrench is a lost art. www.artofmanliness.com/2013/03/05/toolmanship-your-complete-guide-to-wrenches/. en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adjustable_spanner There are also videos on KZbin. Although perhaps these are not reputable enough for you.

[@roboterson]

+jlastre Read links before you post them. In the link you posted it says "the wrench can be flipped over to provide two different gripping positions" Proving me to be correct.

[@ut2bboob]

If it is not yet too late, don't pour your slab without first placing plastic film on the dirt, (we also sprinkle lime dust under the plastic to keep mold and mildew in check as the under ground always stays moist). It will keep the concrete wetter longer and give you a much stronger pad!!! If you allow the dirt to immediately absorb the water in the concrete it dries faster, thus a weaker slab. Another excellent idea is to unroll 4' wire with 6"x6" squares and is also code here. Between the wire and plastic your slab will be 'virtually' un-crackable. As to the drain pipe MC previously mentioned, 4" light duty (non-pressurized) (ie. schedule 20 PVC or in your case HDPE) is normal and the code in our and surrounding states in the south east. Sorry I haven't be watching your videos fast enough to some other do's and absolutely don't do's I seen. That's not to say I'm the last word construction knowledge; just been doing it for 32 yrs. Keep your eyes on the prize!

[@act.13.41]

It's so nice when folks show up to help.

[@DEADB33F]

Wait, what? You're allowed to use jubilee clips (hose clamps) underground in the states? In the UK that's a massive no-no.

[@Robonza]

You are right , never use jubilee clips on main water lines, especially when they make those fittings that fit so perfectly to that plastic hose. It will leak later on, just how long?

[@Drinks-and-finger-food]

James Bradwell but you guys drive the other side of the road....

[@alexveldhuis6004]

Increases your skill level

[@davidb5978]

Just wait until all of your frost free hydrants freeze and split because of the 'cold air sleeve' that you put over them. Live and learn.

[@matt56849]

It's called a "pit" in order to service the hydrant without digging... and no, they don't freeze the water at the bottom. We have over a half dozen of them at our farm that have servicing pits around them, and none have frozen in over 40 years... learn to think before you speak

[@scottstephens3573]

I really enjoy seeing y'all s videos, y'all get along so good..

[@BryanSpringborn]

Very cool peeps volunteering!!! Swamp water was the rage at a bar in UW Whitewater back in the 90’s. Lime cool aid and bottom shelf vodka. What a memory ride this morning.

[@veizour]

soooo soooo sorry... goodness I hate having to re-do things. I feel so bad for you. (I couldn't even hold my comment past 2 minutes). Best luck and positive vibes that the rest will go smooth.

[@mrchristopher337]

Such cute kids. Hang in there. Godspeed.

[@swf4iubrh4s]

That's some stubborn pipe. Keep up the good work. A.H.W.

[@madmac7773]

Not sure if it depends on the 'perc' rate of the soil or not, but here down south, our footings have to be at least 18" below grade, 2' preferably.

[@bradlysmith7590]

Fill the line at the coldest point of the night the days heat will expand it to 98-99 psi

[@2506Larry]

I like that you pronounce Missouri correctly!

[@InconsistentManner]

using adjustable pliers on brass fittings... NO use an adjustable wrench or "crescent/name brand" wrench. Scratching the brass liker that makes it harder to install and remove later when you make another mistake and you cant get it off because you rounded the edges.

[@larrygerard9814]

1" pex. Done and done! 👍

[@buddybrown5943]

Channellocks are directional when you tighten or loosen FYI GOOD LUCL

[@beachlife1411]

Nice to have help

[@muchosa1]

sll that comression of the sand and rock was just wasted with all the digging they are doing for the pipes.

[@remyllebeau77]

Captain Obvious, STRIKES AGAIN!

[@replacehumans]

Thanks for the video!! you totally made my Saturday night!

[@mikehegdahl5393]

Like I said before you should have done all of this before you did all that compaction.

[@purelivingforlife]

+Mike Hegdahl lol

[@odzmaker]

so he has 88psi between the Closed Ball valve and the schrader valve

[@wvmontani]

Why didn't you put the mechanical room on the other side (the side closest to the water source)?

[@10Briguy]

wvmontani i was just about to post the same thing. Hahaha

[@gearhead5651]

That takes planning and foresight

[@wvmontani]

Planning and foresight? The water system was completed long before the house project started!

[@djlord9189]

Hoseclamps = Garbage method. What a clusterfuck. Also, the valve on the pressure tester is closed. It needs to be open! Also. You just undermined your foundation. You can't just backfill with loose dirt! It should be concrete. What a mess.

[@andyward8336]

DJ LoRD If hoseclamps were so bad they wouldn't be used in aviation, marine, automotive and meany other applications , it's only the quantity and types that's used that can be in question . And digging such a small hole under the foundation will not do any harm in any way .

[@Gotafish1]

I know NOTHING about plumbing a house in your area. But to me, those hose clamps will rust here in Florida and deteriorate eventually and then what?

[@tomaskovacik]

generaly any useless connection (I mean ones which can be avoided at all) are possible future problems, regarles of type of connection