The Worst Guitar I Ever Played is Almost Genius

[@andrefludd]

Updates: 1) guys, I know you can use a right angle jack. That’s not really the point, it’s still uncomfortable, and a design flaw. 2) I figured out how to adjust the string height. The adjustment was jammed so it took a bit more force and patience. I’d still change the bridge for the other reasons mentioned. 3) Yes I know hex drill bits exist. I didn’t have one handy so I did the drill thing as a bit of a joke. No I wouldn’t do this on a guitar I cared about…

[@williammoser5211]

Just a PSA: search for "eart bridge adjustment" on YT, and the first result is a video by six1nine that goes into all the adjustments in detail, including string height. I just picked up an even cheaper Leo Jaymez headless on Amazon with the same bridge, and apparently the same crappy pickups. For me, the bridge is fine -- I just wanted an inexpensive practice guitar for air travel, not for live gigs. I'll be swapping out the electronics of course, but it's still the best option in the price range.

[@Zundfolge]

I did some quick searching on Reverb and there are several listings for a headless guitar bridge made by "Nova" that look decent in the pics for $209 and there was one listing from a Myles Music Shop in Wei Fang Shi, China for an unbranded bridge for only $90.20 (but I bet its no better than what you have). So that seems a lot better than spending $400+ on a Hipshot bridge (although on Reverb there were several Hipshot tremelo bridges for around $300). By the way they have a listing for the bridge already on your guitar for $53 ... so that's rather telling :) Just keep the Sunk Cost Fallacy in mind if you decide you want to try to "fix" this guitar.

[@nickyama98]

Good review. I found on that type of bridge, the height adjustment cam will get stuck which I was able to fix by reducing the string tension and tapping on the string roller.

[@Zundfolge]

Ok, I ran the numbers. Assuming you're already into the guitar for like $300 you'll have 209 for the Nova bridge (and this assumes the head piece will work with that neck and you don't have to hunt something else down). Plus ~ 270 for a pair of decent humbuckers (I looked on Dylan McKerchie's site and he'll sell you a matched pair of his humbuckers for that ... frankly that sounds like an awesome deal for hand made pickups, and I bet if you called him he could tell you exactly which of his pickups you needed to achieve your tone goals) and I threw in a $61 for a Stewmac wiring kit (because I bet the pots, switch and jack in that thing are crap). So that would be $840ish total (not counting shipping on all this stuff). After all that you'd have a slightly nicer playing guitar worth about $300. So yeah, you're running up against Sunk Cost Fallacy for sure. That said, still a lot cheaper than a Strandberg. If it was me, I'd just make sure the action and intonation was adjusted as good as you can get them, then adjust the pickups up as close to the strings as you can get them without them getting in the way ... and then hunt down some kid in the neighborhood that needs a guitar and give it to them :p

[@DudeMcGuybro]

@@Zundfolge I'll take a set of Seymour Duncan's that'll sound exactly the same for half the price... lol.

[@samseitz9937]

I think you might be the only KZbinr who actually talks about the physical part of playing a guitar - how you sit, how it’s feels with the fingers, and so on. I appreciate the detail!

[@bradenrigling7745]

All the others are just theory KZbinrs who play guitar

[@johnjohn37371]

The only other one I can think of who speaks about it occasionally is McKnight...

[@BuddieOLLi]

Tim Pierce talks about often

[@timbaker1320]

Awsome looking guitar! String height, after market parts and pickups are a big deal for me. Neck feel also. Bought an Eart "Strat" style guitar from Amazon. $250. I do like it. I also have 2 PRS's. I like them all. Need more + others.

[@robinr22]

Wait - you mean a review that consists of reading of the spec sheet and then five minutes of jamming into a tonne of effects and a £2k amp isn't useful?

[@MatthewBaron]

Here's how to find the adjustment wrench or any lost ball bearings or screws: Walk around the area in the dark barefoot. You should then be able to remove the lost part from the now-bleeding underside of your foot. Us dads do indeed play slow-ass blues licks but we also know how to find pretty much anything.

[@zoomzoom3950]

yes, especially lego blocks!

[@SamChaneyProductions]

If it's iron or steel you can tape a super strong neodymium magnet to the end of a stick and wave it around! Probably won't find what you're looking for but you'll find a bunch of other useless metal junk

[@nicolasreveco3748]

you could just ask your mom to find it for you and it will just materialize in her hand. she'll probably say "it's right in front of you how did you not see it?"

[@potatolew4495]

@nicolas reveco many of us watching have families and don't live with mommy anymore. Goodluck@nicholas reveco, hope you grow up to be a great guitar player. Wish you the best in whatever you decide for your future.

[@Deladus]

Pro-tip: First make sure you are up to date on your tetanus shots.

[@-FARKI]

Solution to problem 1 with the tuners being too hard to turn by hand: there are philips head screws inside the tuners. If you loosen them a little the tuners move very easily. I have used that same bridge for my own guitar builds and it works perfectly. The string height is adjusted with two grubscrews, one for setting the height, the other for locking it in place. Sometimes if you adjust string height when its under tension, it can get stuck, but pushing it with your finger a little solves it for me at least. I got the feeling that you just went full monkey on this bridge and started turning random screws when I could figure it out in 5 minutes.

[@AlexTavadi]

Thats right! Grote is a good instrument!

[@paleopasha]

I have the Eart GW2 Non-pro which has this bridge. and I found that it wasn't great to loosen the screws in the tuners beyond a certain point. They got too loose and there was too much play in the tuner. My solution was to use my pick in the little notches in the tuners to turn them in a pinch. However I've found over time that the tuners seem to have lubricated themselves and are far less stiff than from the factory. So I no longer have much issue turning them with my fingers though I'll still use the tool for string changes and my pick if I happen to already be holding it.

[@string-puller]

Thanks for your tips since I am just about to approach my Chinese headless bridge as well with a set of wrenches! 😉

[@TimMeta]

Hi Andre I know how to adjust string height on this guitar....there are 2 screws immediately at the back of each saddle....if you loosen the screw on the right side of the saddle by turning it counter- clockwise it unlocks the saddle.......then theres another screw immediatley to the leff of that screw....turning that screw clockwise or counter clockwise will raise or lower the action. After adjusting the action, just turn the screw on the right side of the saddle clockwise to tighten it back up again to lock the saddle in place. try it and you will see what i mean

[@Alakaslam_21]

Most articulate reviewer I’ve seen on KZbin. Would Love to see some NK headless form ali express reviews too

[@Mike28625]

I got the Valgoa. The pickups needed to be unscrewed and rescrewed to sit properly and I had to file down a few high frets. But it was great after that. There are two tiny set screws on each saddle. Left one is the lock screw and the right is the adjuster. Thing is, you need to physically push the adjustment wheel the string sits on to get it to go down. The set screw brings it up to where you like it. The lock screw on the left locks it in place. Also, it seems like you need to set the pickups properly. Mine is VERY LOUD and crispy after I set it up right. It's very odd. These guitars are very good for the money but only if you possess the skills to fix the flaws. Lucky I'm a Gretsch guy. I can name that buzz in five strums lol.

[@etie10]

That pickup volume is hilarious, did not expect how low it would be!

[@cecb87]

I didn't know there was someone even more into the nerdy guitar stuff than me. Super helpful reviews and music content. It's great that you as a presenter are very well versed so the content is super easy to digest. Great teacher. Thank you for your confident and humble presentation.

[@andrefludd]

Thank you :)

[@maxmustardman298]

Yep the aftermarket parts availabilty is a nightmare, especially tremolos. You could say strandberg was a witty guy to only supply those bridges with the guitar and not separately.

[@kicksareforribs5156]

The thing that is infuriating about the little magnetic tool is that you pull it out by the hex end not the handle end. If it came out and you didn't have to flip it in your hands it would be easier to use and not drop.

[@MrSchism]

I didn't see anything in the comments so... The neck is probably finished, but assuming you're right and it's not, it's relying on the oils of your hand to create a finish. It does work.

[@CKS64]

Thanks!

[@aninfinitemindofmusicandreams]

I discovered your channel through your Mayones Duvell videos. I seriously respect the way you make these reviews where you go into every minute detail instead of just the usual bullet points of a guitar most focus on. It's also interesting to see a non metal player's perspective on these guitars.

[@D4veJap4n]

Bro you are doing amazing work with these videos. You’re giving too true information on guitars for those thinking about buying them and I’m here for it man

[@bilbobalboa1499]

Returning to leave a point on ergonomic design: the horn end of the strap should attach to the rear side of the horn, rather than the tip! SO much more comfortable as the strap ends up resting flat over your left shoulder instead of digging into the side of your neck. I found this feature on one of those old Cort electrics with the pentagram inlays and it was the most comfortable I've ever been while playing. Seriously, try one like this if you haven't!

[@stephen3164]

I have some guitars like that - problem is if not done right, the instrument “tips forward” if you let go, so your left hand and right elbow have to constantly balance the guitar while playing. You get used to it, but it can get nutty. A Jackson Kelly I had was like this. The strap position needed to be closer to the headstock too, but there was no upper horn, so it would neck dive AND tip forward. Quite annoying. Played fine sitting down. Some other guitars with the same rear strap pin position did not have this problem.

[@theriguyayylmao3761]

Tip for dropping metal things on the floor such as the small tool in this video or the ball bearing you dropped in a previous video: get a magnet and run it along the surface of the carpet it’ll pick up any of the steel objects

[@NikiDorian]

Just as you mentioned in your other review, these guitars are a great starting point for a tinkerer like me. They will be getting better as they gain more popularity... BTW you really need to check out the grandaddy of the headless -- the Steinberger. The history, the instrument and the designer are fascinating, and just like Parker, way ahead of their time. There is a super in-depth review by a guitar instructor on youtube who went from an really expensive Strandberg to a 400$ Steinberger and loved it... Good luck with the channel...

[@Ausemere]

What's the name of the guitr instructor's channel?

[@NikiDorian]

@@Ausemere It's "Bruce Darlington Guitar"

[@bobbobberts]

1970 a Guy named gittler made a all stainless guitar it was headless .

[@NikiDorian]

Yes, but unlike the Steinberger they are still being made as they were designed... There is a bass version as well. Peter Autschbach (a jazz musician) has a good demo and various live performances with the guitar on his channel!

[@martyshwaartz971]

Shame that it has those issues with the tuning and input jack, the restringing process is actually quite streamlined! One thing I don't understand is why more guitars don't put the input jack on the front of the guitar like a strat (or SG with if you use a 90º cable). It's out of the way completely!

[@Jennifer_Prentice]

My NK has the same bridge. If I remember one of those tiny allen screws is the retainer and screws down onto the rotating pivot point. You loosen it and then turn the other to adjust the tilt up or down for string height .. Just be glad your bridge was in the proper location so you could adjust yours .. One saddle on mine needs to go either forward or backward more and is slid to its max and can not get a perfect intonation .

[@IIImobiusIII]

For your headless string poking issue. Had it also. Cut them a little longer and with needle nose pliers bend the ends towards the back. Easy peasy.

[@fusionfan6883]

So I currently have 5 headless guitars, two of which use that bridge system and three using the typical longitudinal tuners. Frankly I prefer the system that is in your guitar, but I sense you approached it somewhat as a Luddite. I had no problem setting the string height or figuring out what everything does. Yes you have to adjust your attitude a bit, but you can even accommodate palm muting, and as for the fine tuning, if you don’t like the key (which again I don’t mind) then just carry a suitably sized Allen key. I agree the jack socket is stupid though, but my two, which are the NK brand, have a cleverly angled jack that sits neatly out of the way.I have swapped out the pickups in mine and they sound great. My NKs have quilted maple necks which are lovely. Thomann now do their own affordable headless, the Dulahan, but I don’t like the aesthetic, although it isn’t a bad place to start if you want a standard headless bridge. With all these cheaper guitars, you need to expect a bit of setup work and tinkering, but I must say I love mine and have not spent the earth in the process.

[@kma5699]

How do you raise the saddle height? Seeing others not able to adjust it and would be great if someone could offer the answer as to how it’s done

[@gregcissell345]

Most simple bridge ever on the saddles top allan screw loosens it the bottom allen rotates it up and down, and on the tuners back the Phillips head screw out a little bit and then the tuners move smoothly , for some reason they crank them down at the factory,I ordered that bridge a wile back and hated it at first too.

[@smarkymark1097]

I have that same bridge on my Eart headless. Each saddle has 2 corresponding screws. One of the screws locks the saddle height, and the other adjusts the height. It's not like a Strat where each screw adjusts the height on one side. I agree about the tuning being a bit annoying if you're in a pinch, but in my experience, once you get it in tune, it's pretty stable. And you can make small adjustments with a pick.

[@smawhorter]

I know several accomplished guitar players that sand the finish from the neck before they do anything else...it's a preference thing. Eventually, hand oils will get into the grain, but it can be removed with any standard wood cleaner and then cleaned up with some high grit sandpaper.

[@dimitriid]

I'm curious about what your stand of flying V guitars is: I know most people think they're basically "Stand up only" guitars but even though your legs might not be as comfortable as this shape, the V should easily rest in your right leg and while your position will be shifted to the left a bit, I wonder how big of an adjustment would be for you in term sof ergonomics.

[@tommilitello198]

It hangs on a strap exactly the same standing up or sitting down,just shift your legs over and a chair without armrests

[@archeryandstuffwithstevela3423]

Sounds to me, like you need to try out a steinberger, they require special strings, with dual ball ends. The tremolo, can be used to shift and lock the pitch of the overall tuning, effectively transposing on the run with the whammy bar. Also the tremolo is geared in a way that ensures the integrity of a chord even while the bar is being moved. They also have a fold out leg rest.

[@M_C79]

Steinbergers aren't that comfortable sitting down, unless you've got a short torso. The leg rest helps to keep them in place, but the guitar still sits too low. The Strandberg (and the Klein) shape is better for sitting. The Steinberger Synapse series had a combo headpiece that lets you use regular strings. It's great. But the Synapses don't have a trem. Great guitars though!

[@Maxx61]

Interesting observation regarding the somewhat restricted width of the 'Berg's leg rest. The most comfortable guitar I've ever owned is a Dean Gordon Virtus. They're pricey but man oh man, what an experience playing that. Closest to those ergonomics ironically came from my Gary Kramer Turbulence 29 fret guitar. Both guitars utilize the curved leg rest albeit with the Dean Gordon it was more aesthetically pleasing the way he morphs it into the body. Thanks for another solid review and you've likely saved several guitar players from making this headless mistake from Amazon.

[@DaveDurango]

How does the Turbulence sound? I've seen some videos but nobody really does much of a job showing the sound off.

[@Maxx61]

@@DaveDurango The USA models are fantastic but pricey on the rare occasions you find them. The imports require a pickup change but otherwise are fine guitars. Fret work is solid. Gary created a wonderfully ergonomic option for us but as could be expected, it didn't last long because unlike bassists, guitar players remain quite fickle to traditional designs. I'm convinced had he released the guitar after the headless resurgence, more guitarists would have been warmer to its shape and ergonomic benefits.

[@michaelmenkesOZSKIB]

"no finish" on the neck should be sealed at least with oil or wax. Music Man finishes nearly everything with Tru-Oil and gunstock wax, and I've applied that to guitars I've modified or built when dealing with neck woods that don't need grain filling, like maple. That neck looked raw. Without a sealing your own dead skin and oily sweat will become the finish. I'd suggest the full size allen key is the best tool for tuning since you have accuracy in the additional leverage, but this is a killing point as to why I don't do headless. Tuners need to be instantly adjustable.

[@simonpark843]

Excellent video - I enjoy your presentation style as much as I enjoy the insightful content.

[@mrdonfranklin]

I bought the same guitar and had a similar issue with the low volume. What i found was the tone pot legs were shorting out against the side of the cavity which was painted with shielding paint. A simple loosening of the tone pot and turning it a bit solved the issue. The pickups were actually 13k in the bridge position and 9k in the neck position. It was a simple fix.

[@erickleefeld4883]

Output jacks should be on the front of guitars, either pointing straight up or in an angled Strat-style cup. That’s the solution for proper ergonomics with your lap - just get the cable completely out of the way from your legs.

[@pillboxstyx]

I have an EART GW2 with the same bridge and I found the string height adjustment to be fine. I did have to watch a video to understand how to use the two little screws (lock and adjustment) on each saddle arm. Also you do have to sometimes give the arm a wiggle with your finger after adjusting to get it to adjust. Spend the $12 on Allen Wrench Drill Bits my dude. Will change your life :)

[@FabrizioPolo-b7m]

So thorough. I'm loving your videos.

[@andrefludd]

Thank you :)

[@gergodaroczy8103]

Just a quick answer on on the matter of the neck finish: Bowed instruments from a violin to a double bass never ever have anything on the neck. Players talk about it as an essential part of the feeling while playing. So if a Stradivari violin was worth millions of dollars with the same lack of finish, you should not worry about it either.

[@andrefludd]

Thank you!

[@IhorHashkov]

Grote Headless vs. Eart GW2. The location of the input jack is almost the main reason why I chose Eart. Thanks for the review.

[@baimun]

I've got a collection of headless parts for experimental builds, and I bought an Amazon headless for travel as well... but it doesn't have that bridge, it has the cylinders with the knurled barrel tuners at the tail end. They require the ball end down there, and then the strings locked and cut off at the headpiece. I agree with you about rather having the ball ends at the end of the headstock and got an ABM headpiece with little sockets at the end of the headpiece slots for the ball ends, and then each slot nestles a hex screw to firmly secure the strings. On the bridge end, I intend to use a more traditional bridge (or maybe one of the Babicz full contacts that I have) and then use locking tuners as a tailpiece. I'm gaining some space between by using Hipshot knurled buttons instead of more traditional buttons. Currently have some of those on a Superstrat and I love the fact that the knurled buttons are less likely to get bumped out of tune in the gigbag or when I'm clipping a capo between songs. I'll report back after building of the headless resumes. ☮❤🎶

[@marlongrech1300]

You have quickly become one of my favorite guitar youtubers and i look forward to your videos. Keep it up! I recently bought an eart headless but the non pro version (since it has this specific string system not the locking version) I hope that wasn't a mistake but im pretty hands-on on my guitars. Will find out monday.

[@boxerfencer]

11:44 the solution to the input jack issue is simply to use a 90 degree jack. No need to drill any holes. Changing the pickups isn't anything unexpected, especially with a cheap guitar, but even on expensive guitars. The ease of tunability is more of an issue that the jack, but even then isn't as given the lack of headstock and trees tuning stability shouldn't be an issue in the first place.

[@andrefludd]

Still uncomfortable. I tried it.

[@boxerfencer]

@@andrefludd ah

[@boxerfencer]

@@andrefludd the other solution or workaround, is to simply play it like a classical guitar, which approximates the position you like, perhaps with the 90 degree jack if necessary. I know it's not the same position you like, but over ~30 years playing guitar I've played classical guitars on both legs, electric guitars, while playing various styles, classical to steel string folk, to electric Strat to Les Paul. It's really not a big deal and can transition without much of an adaptation period. I'm sure you could transition between your position and the classical counterpart easily since they're so similar. Lastly I'll say, I think your evaluation suffers from a presupposition that that guitar is made to be played the way you want it. Unfortunately, I don't see that to be the case, which suggests a fault on your part. That's not to say you shouldn't look for something else that fits your predispositions better, just that this 'fault' reflects more on you, or perhaps the suitability of your desired position for that guitar, rather than some defect of the guitar itself. Luckily, a close compromise, that of the classical guitar position, might work well if you give it a chance. I'd like to see a video on playing it from the classical guitar position, if you're so inclined. Hope that helps.

[@TomboLP]

This is really good to see - thanks! I'm a guitar builder in Tokyo and have a few headless bridges waiting around for me to try out. Most are in the separate tuner style like Strandberg, allowing for things like fanned frets, but I also wound up with what must be, I think, this exact bridge. I've not made an instrument for it yet, but had been planning to do so. However, I am now concerned about the problems you mention. Maybe I'll knock up an experimental design one of these days, but it'll be down the track a bit.

[@andrefludd]

I’d love to try your work in the future :)

[@TomboLP]

@@andrefludd Maybe we can make it happen one of these years. At the moment, I'm making an arch top for the amazing Hawe Gondwe (Amy Winehouse, Roachford). Happy days!

[@brennanlable]

fantastic review! thank you very much

[@jorgea.9988]

Regardless the amazing content and info, your channel is awesome for someone who's learning english. Even though I'm not the biggest fan of the 'american accent', I love the way you speak, it's so clear, open and articulate. Congrats and I hope you grow a lot on KZbin!

[@Sandy.Squirrel]

I am so happy you did this full review. Thank you.

[@dwanestarkey8820]

I wanted to thank you for the video. It was nice to see an honest review, you had very valid points and I took them all into consideration. Originally after viewing the video I passed on the guitar. But then Amazon offered the guitar at the reduced price of $195. And I did so want to try a that neck. So I purchased the instrument. All in all I'm happy. The construction, fit and finish are good. I judge a guitar by how often I pick it up and I find myself reaching for this one often. I agree the pickups are not the best but with a little tweaking on the amp ( straight into a boss Katana ) I got sounds that I'm happy with. I understand there is a lack of quality control in regards to the pickups, I might have just gotten a good set . Love the neck by the way. Thank you again. If anyone is thinking of getting one, if you can get it on sale, it might be worth your time.

[@andrefludd]

I’m glad I could be of help! Thanks for the update.

[@ivanbardov]

Great detailed video, well done, thanks. There are indeed some brilliant innovations here in this guitar, which, surprisingly are not always present in more high-end instruments. Finally, finally, a solution to get rid of sharp string ends at the end of the neck. I don't know why some people leave them there sticking out for a few cm or even inches, but whenever I see bunch of sharp string 'tails' on the headless guitar, it's just uncomfortable. The player will either harm himself or poke someone in the eye with those sharp strings. Not to mention that some player don't even trim string ends at all and play live (when at any time they can just lose an eye). So this seems huge. Also I don't know why people do love those buckeye burl tops - to my eyes it looks either ugly or even cancer-like sometimes (but not 'healthy' - that's for sure). P.S. that focused and disappointed face at 13:52 reminded me character Tyreese from Walking Dead show 😀

[@Halfaloaf599]

Thank you. I have been wanting to try one of these, and THAT - the input jack, is a deal breaker.

[@Jason22Douce]

Seems like if the company watched this video, made some revisions and released an updated version of the guitar, it could be something great. Cant wait to see what your headless holy grail will be in the future.

[@TaylorBoldt-lq9fw]

I got a Legator ghost anniversary and it’s flawless. I also was able to call the company and get 6 extra string locking Allen screws and 6 extra ball catches for the bridge for absolutely free. I wouldn’t waste my time with the price of a strand or this guitar. You can get a ghost with fishman fluence pickups for 900 to 1500 dollars.

[@aligatorsandwitch72]

i love how you organize your thoughts

[@werewolfmoney6602]

You could make a really interesting video/series making this guitar actually good by installing new hardware and drilling out a new output jack and whatnot. Idk how your woodworking is, but if it is something you're new to, then I think that would actually make for even more interesting content. Usually people making videos like that are highly experienced in terms of actually performing the modifications, and tend to cover it in a way where they sort of assume that the viewer knows why and how they're doing what they're doing. So it would be really cool to watch someone who is relatively inexperienced, and to be able to go through the learning curve with you. Love your channel btw. Been playing on and off for years but you've inspired me to pick it up again and try to stay consistent with practicing so thanks for that, man.

[@peachhodsun9532]

Thank you Dr Fludd for these in depth guitar reviews! Don't change your style you beautiful human!!

[@andrefludd]

Thanks :)

[@genesisfalling]

I used to have a Steinberger guitar back in the 1990’s. It was all black with EMG pickups, a super Strat shape body. It was amazing and well ahead of its time. It took strings with a ball at each end so you just slotted in and tuned. The trem could be locked in different tunings and it stayed in perfect tune all the time. The neck was made of graphite and super smooth. If only they still made them as second hand they are very expensive now. One i regret letting go. They had nailed all the design features of a headless guitar decades before companies like Strandberg came along. I have a Strandberg 7 string with Fishman Fluence pickups and I love it. 😊.

[@JayPeeEverBeyond]

They make them now, and its my go to guitar. I love it. Yes unlock the bridge with a 1.5 allen key, adjust position and height and lock again. Job done. Started remakkng the a few years back in japan. Downside- i had to pay100 pounds to get it through tarriff.

[@thechickensandwich]

I chuckled at the input jack position. I did the exact same thing years ago. Fell in love with a v-style guitar on the wall of the local shop, played it unplugged and checked out the usual suspects. When I finally played it plugged in the input jack made it impossible to rest on my leg at all, just like your example here. I did go out and buy a right-angled cable but you're absolutely right - its still uncomfortable and fatiguing even with a right-angled cable. I was gutted.

[@Mezzier]

I'm surprised you only have 11k suscriber. Great quality video and content ! thanks

[@skrappjaw.studio]

The rant about the guitar jack took almost all of phase 3. lol. Drill a new hole, make another input spot, drop some decent pickups in and swap the bridge. Sounds like a great hot rodding project guitar.

[@andrefludd]

Sounds like a lot of money and time.

[@Bob-of-Zoid]

Now all you need is a Bit holder for your drill, and Allen bits to go with it, as that wobbling may just turn out to wear those tuners and the drill out much faster. OK, after watching the rest, maybe not for that guitar, but in general good and proper tools are always a good thing. I'm sure there are other things you use allen and other wrenches, torq's, screw drivers... for where the bit holder and bits will come in handy.

[@FreddyGaming]

The only actual problem here is the string height on the bridge tbh. The pickups sound like there some electronics issue tbh. You just swap the electronics and the pickups anyway in cheap guitars.

[@MelodyMaker218]

I look forward to your videos. They do look comfy to play on the lap.

[@thislisa]

Good points. Good to know.

[@entropy1454]

Just a point about the Sophia trem. I think you misunderstood the "infinite fine tuner" name they like to use. They call it that because it has way more range than a Floyd Rose. It has the same tuning range as most other headless systems, they all use the same mechanics.

[@russel818]

12:24 thanks for reviewing this guitar. First person I’ve seen review this guitar. Been playing it for about six months. The cable that it comes with has a flat end which with the input problem of the jack you were experiencing :) hope that helps.

[@russel818]

Weird that your pickups were so soft. My grotes pick ups are much hotter than any of the other guitars I have. Might be a lemon :) but thank you again for reviewing it. Alsways wanted to know a pros opinion about it. The strings also do lower in height as well. I made the action on this guitar practically on the fretboard and plays well.

[@user-of9ut1hd9q]

Phillip McKnight actually reviewed it as well. His pickups worked however and sounded pretty good kzbin.info/www/bejne/rYutYpeBbrp0bdE

string heightmadjustment is a breeze on these bridges, but notwell documented - the inputjack should be 90 degrees connector - pickups are weak so they have to be adjusted up close to the strings

[@jeffreygabbard6192]

Having an unfinished neck gives you the opportunity to apply finish oils to your desired slickness

[@shubniggurath6464]

Since you didn't mention any major construction issues, mainly hardware issues, you could take this as a mod project, if you're into that sort of thing. 1. You could rout out a bit of space on the back of the body or the control cavity cover and install a strat-style output jack there. 2. Other commenters are mentioning that there actually is a way to adjust string height, and that the tuner pegs are slotted so you can use a pick to turn them. 3. Pickups could be changed, of course

[@andrefludd]

Yes I added it to a pinned comment.

[@ringodanger5435]

Ok, here is how to change the string height: on every rider, there are two small screws for the allen wrench. one loosens the mechanism, the other one changes the string height. It's solved with a little wheel, with a pin on it. I think its stupid complicated.

[@BillLau]

Andre! What a huge surprise for KZbin to give me one of your videos as a recommended video! So proud to see how much you’ve grown as a person and a player! You’re killing it on KZbin. Congratulations! I’m newer to KZbin, I have a lot to learn but your videos are excellent! I’m very proud of you! Keep up the great work!

[@andrefludd]

Mr. Lau! I was just thinking of you the other day (hence men adding you on insta). Thanks for the support and for introducing me to Dream Theater all those years ago. That set me on a path for sure.

[@cepopeye]

Cool 😊

[@chrisknowles]

Hi Andre, I've been playing now for 50 years. And I totally agree, step 1 is always to play unplugged and see if the instrument speaks to you. I fell in love with a little Chinese SG at a local music shop. It had P90's and was very lively unplugged. The electronics were complete garbage though. I am a luthier so I had no problem replacing everything. Looking at this guitar, I see a lot of potential, but also a lot of nasty. Definitely some great design ideas Maybe a project for later.... Love the video, thanks for sharing!

[@mattlombardi54]

I just discovered your channel, it’s awesome, thank you!

[@vindknt]

Hey, you talked a bit about this neck shape you liked, but could you maybe describe it a bit more? As someone interested in guitar building, it would be great to get some new ideas from someone that has tried a lot of different shapes.

[@_rafael_b]

Hi Andre! Thanks for showing me a guitar to steer clear of. This is one of those cases where you played a guitar so that the rest of us wouldn't have to. You def took one for the team here. Btw, I enjoyed your podcast on Wednesday. I can relate to a lot of what you covered. Cheers man! ✌

[@andrefludd]

Thanks man! The second I put up the podcast, my practice plans took another huge turn so I may have to do a bonus podcast lol

[@TheCrimson173]

I have a headless EART and the screw on the opposite side of the intonation screw on the saddle being adjusted is supposed to be the height adjustment

[@MichaelMoore-nx5ue]

Thank you for your video. Those were excellent points but I have to be honest with you. I played a Strandberg one time and it was nearly a $1800 instrument offered to me at a reduced price for $750. I initially accepted but after 45 minutes of testing the instrument, I handed it back saying it’s not even worth that.

[@alexstixx]

I've got the EART GW2 which has the same bridge but a different body shape. I played it live tonight and didn't really have any issues with the tuning. It has the same KD licensed bridge with the little hex crank tool and magnetic holder. It's certainly more trouble to tune than a regular guitar, but I think you can loosen the screws a little bit to make the knobs easier to turn, and the tuning was stable on my guitar such that I was only ever changing the thicc E string between E and D. These cheap Chinese headless guitars all follow the same basic formula. They're all going to need new pickups and some woodwork to be really usable. I didn't mind doing that on mine, but I know many people won't have the time or be able to do that.

[@blakegeoffrey7621]

These reviews are so in depth, absolutely amazing

[@andrefludd]

Ty

[@randmockguitars4079]

when you reached for the cable.. I had to lol. I just did not expect that. Hopefully they address that, it's a simple enough fix in the design.

[@chrishill9707]

To adjust the string height you rotate the saddle it's on a Cam.

[@Mikehoncho191]

Spirit steinberger, I have an XT-2 and it love it, sots nice, weights enough to feel quality but not too heavy, 0 neck dive but that’s a given, and the best part, it’s looks, so simple and Soo refined, I prefer a boat paddle of these newer style fancy headless guitar, and I’m only 19 so can use the ok boomer on me

[@TMAziz]

Andre, I'm pretty sure you can get a hexagon bit for your drill. That Allen wrench/ bottle cap contraption looks dicey

[@crxr-b5i]

On a normal guitar if you're playing right handed put the guitar on your left leg lean it up against your right leg puts it at a nice 45° angle it gives your left arm more room to move more freely... Gives you three points of contact versus two with it on your right leg

[@ScrubDaddy265]

I know this was a year ago, so for whatever it’s worth…. Interesting how you loved the design and feel at the price, but then didn’t like the tuners. Another gentleman spoke about how to adjust the bridge properly in this comments section, so I won’t repeat that, but keeping an Allen wrench in your pocket isn’t hard to do and they’re pretty cheap. Also, some of the screws are notched and can be turned with a heavy pick or coin. It’s really quite elegant design. The pickups and electronics on a sub $1K instrument are always the weak link and even then can be adjusted and EQ’d for. I use a multiFX and low-er output pickups or hot humbuckers wired in parallel are my preference, for clarity. Regardless, rewiring this would be easy and that’s what I would do. The finishes except for the natural are hideous and I wish they’d just done a photo flame or something. Oh well. I don’t play the finish. Also, a right angle cable is less than $20. However, for me the chunky neck doesn’t work for me. Oh well!

[@LilBoyHexley]

Honestly something like the GW2 (not pro) still seems like a deal to me. Ergonomics that aren't even being attempted for less than 5-6+ times the price, at the cost of throwing in some cheap GFS humbuckers that sound totally fine and some nitpicks/annoyance with the bridge isn't necessarily a dealbreaker. From most reports a lot of the problems with the bridge can be sorted through (trying to figure out string height on your own was a bad idea), and the tuning stability is actually good. You get what you pay for to be sure. But in guitar world often what you gotta pay is just ridiculous.

[@andrefludd]

I agree with you! It could be a decent mod platform for the right person.

[@colinmcguigan4630]

There's a headless by a brand called Bootlegger that's awesome, but I passed on it specifically because of the output jack. It's got the strandberg style cutaway, but they put the jack right in the middle of it so it's completely useless as a leg rest

[@Sea_Jay]

The tuning pegs are sloted on top. Use your pick as leverage to twist the peg.

[@reckon104]

Fabulous review. Glad I found this channel, that was the best guitar review I think i've ever seen.

[@andrefludd]

Funny how youtube works, this is probably one of the worst reviews I've ever done haha. So it's all uphill from here as you check out the other videos :). Thanks for supporting.

[@reckon104]

@@andrefludd dude, if that's your worst, Imma definitely coming back for more...Love your vibe man!

[@Stringmaster413]

It's almost like the pick ups were adjusted to far down but I would believe you would check that and not over look a silly thing like that.

[@chazharrison9760]

Eart has a model with the same restring process. I belive it is the same bridge with the 2 of them not the one with thumb screw adjustments but the other with the little crank.

[@fernandogarajalde4066]

2:38 you had me at “stainless steel frets”. 😎🎸

[@mikegossett2289]

The pickup thing sounds like they might be internally out of phase. I had this exact issue with a seymour duncan pickup. Basically if you open the back plate and they are 4 wire pickups try swapping the north start and north finish wires on each pickup. On a duncan pickup it was swapping the black and white wires so the white goes to the switch and the black goes with the red for the series link

[@monitorlizard9971]

Youre one of my favorite guitar intel channels my friend keep going. Has a rick beato interview podcast type feel. In depth look into important details that tend to get skipped over in review channels. And youre taking the bullet on all of these brands models ive never owned or tried before but have known about forever. My 2 cents: I actually dislike the parker neck tbh for being a bit toooo slippery its like driving a car on wet ice i just couldnt get control over my playing and sync up. Really prefer a little texture that ebony boards gives me. This is also the issue ive had with maple boards, my playing just seems to slide or slip out of syncopation. Idk why this is I believe i am slightly more heavy handed while playing, like a 6 or 7 out of 10 on my heavy style of playing, think if zack wyld is 9/10 for the pressure he uses. my fingers kind of slam down when playing fast so that if my picking wasnt 100% perfect during the run the notes still ring out clearly. This is also the issue i have with stainless steel frets. Just too slippery. Players might not understand there is a huge difference in your playing stainless steel versus non stainless, and there is a huge difference in feel with ebony versus maple that has a clear coat over the wood. I would play my ibanez prestige js1000 with rosewood and it felt quite middle of the road normal, then i would play my band mates ESP with a clear coated maple and it was just waaay too slippery to the point that playing was labored. Just something people might think about before ordering a new type of fingerboard or going to stainless or evo or steel nicol. It all makes a huge difference on your technique/pressure/speed and comfort. GG good video.

[@andrefludd]

I totally totally understand. I love stuffing, and bread pudding. My gf finds the texture very uncomfortable. I don’t agree with her, but I Totally understand why it would be a weird texture for some.

[@BadWallaby]

I would assume the oils from your hands would really wear the neck in well. Kendama works similarly and it's a hard feeling to match when its "honed"

[@haydenkinley5266]

That's a fairly interesting bridge right there! Seems a rather fiddly though. Fiddly hardware is the ultimate reason I've sold my headless in the end and just bought myself a high-end Schecter 8 string. Although mine had a copy of Strandberg's design, which I frankly despised. I could've been fooled by this guitar though, I think it's beautiful and composite fingerboard paired with stainless frets sound like a steal. But then comes the fiddly hardware, screwed up electronics (which probably signifies non-existent QC, but given the price, that's expected), not very though out design... I guess it's a decent project base, if you want to experiment with customizing. Thanks for the detailed review!

[@stickman55100]

Only a little surprised that the pickups sound so weak. The guitar is only $299 on Amazon. I have a Strandberg, which I really like, but even those humbucker pickups were not great. I changed them to EMGs and the guitar sounds and plays wonderfully.

[@kirtfulcher6288]

I do not like that bridge tuning design. I understand the benefits you detail, but it is essentially a tiny conventional tuner located on the bridge which carries the inherent flaw of turning/twisting the string. I know you are not a fan of the conventional ball-end tuners, but the advantage of these is that the tension on string won't cause a shift in tuning just because the string wrap tightened a little bit. If there was a way to make the string changes faster, I'm all for it but there is a reason for this design and it can definitely have an impact on your strings. Perhaps instead of allen key locks on the headpiece, it they simply gave us decent sized knobs so it can be tightened/loosened by hand, the ball end could go back to the bridge...

[@danielblakeman5308]

If you enjoy the body shape, you should try a GOC! Basically the same shape but a much higher quality instrument.

[@gregmock6808]

I put clear butcher block oil on those raw necks and they seem to come to life.

[@fabian7463]

The solution to the jack is to buy a 90* angled jack! I owned a RR v guitar when I was 13 back in 2006. Thats not an actual problem. I would say the saddle being to close to the edge is an actual problem that ive experienced too.

[@roberteltze4850]

You can get allen wrench drill bits so you don't have to use that adapter, and the bit will be centered making it easier to use.

[@andrefludd]

I know. I just didn’t have the right one handy

[@guyfawkes8873]

Not having a finish will make it pick up skin oils, and it will also be susceptible to molds and similar. But it honestly isn’t a big deal. I sanded down the neck of my first bass (and refretted it, and lots of other stuff), and I had it for five plus years with no issue. It did develop a sort of graininess over time though, which is a bit different to how any finish would feel, but not unpleasant.

[@frankiechan9651]

I kind of prefer the shape of the Grote over the Eart to be honest. And I could live with the bridge design's positives over it's negatives. Dependent on price - I could fix the other issues. And I think this is where we differ - you are a player at a level many orders of magnitude better than I. I am more of a tinkerer, an engineer and I'd consider a pickup swap almost mandatory for some of these guitars. Plus adding or re-routing the pickup jack would not be a major concern to me. Not sure about the quality control on the fingerboard though - that I'd need to think about. PS - Raw necks is something I quite like - I hate sticky/glossy ones so satin or raw feels nicer to me.

[@edesbalazs]

Lol, I was on board with this until you plugged it in, but that jack location completely defeats the purpose of that ergonomic cut. If you can find a good replacement bridge (because tuning like that live is also nonsensical), then it's a cool modding project. Sanding off whatever is on the top, replacing the jack and the tuners, finding slightly higher output pickups seem necessary.