Volvo Penta Sterndrive - U Joint Replacement AQ Series

[@outsidescrewball]

Watched every minute…Enjoyed, great discussion / demonstration / build tips

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Thanks Chuck !

[@westmichiganfishing9613]

You are the best, I'll be removing my lower unit in the spring to replace the steering helmet bushings and V-gasket. During this time, I plan on inspecting the u-joints, replace the bellows and any other PM I see.

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Thanks for the nice comment... So important to keep up with the maintenance 👍

[@bearsrodshop7067]

The owner will soon be able to make a few trip's around Alcatraz soon,,,hehe! Great to be having your back in 2024 early, Bear.

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Happy New Year Bear, Yeah it was a busy holiday

[@GardenTractorBoy]

It was very interesting to watch, thanks. Great tip about using some scrap to stop the ears of the U/J bending

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Thanks Joseph, Yeah there a bit tricky

[@AdamAnthonyAdventures]

Thanks this was very useful to me. I just did the ujoints. I was able to remove them without separating from the gearbox. The last knuckle is a little tight but a little tierod press did the trick.

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Glad it helped 👍 Thanks !

[@westmichiganfishing9613]

"Fineness it, don't force it" wise words. You should put that on a shirt.

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

A couple of my buddies need that shirt 😎😎

[@arthurcitron9774]

Spot on!👊🏻🇺🇸

[@christophercullen1236]

You have the talent ! From down under

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Thanks ! Cheers....

[@MattysWorkshop]

Great video, very informative mate

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Thanks Matty !

[@dagooos]

I changed mine still attached also. Now I’m really glad I did. That was a lot! Looks like fun though. I might give her a go next time now that I know the process thanks

[@skinpickle]

You didn’t have to separate anything and you were able to do both u joints ? I have to do mine and I don’t want to open up the gear box

[@dagooos]

@@skinpickleyes sir, I’ve done it a few times. The trick is to cut a socket in half to support the joint close to the gearbox and then you can just tap the joint out

[@skinpickle]

@@dagooosI was just going to cut it out but I am worried I won’t be able to get the caps in the hole. I just don’t want to split open the gearbox. Would you mind just being a little more specific on what you did

[@skinpickle]

Was there room to get the 2 caps in the hole ?

[@skinpickle]

@@dagoooswhen I say cut it out I was going to use my grinder and cut the ears off/or plasma cut them off but if your saying I can tap them out awesome just don’t quit understand how you did it

[@4jtopp]

Thanks for the video. I'm working on a different drive, but the similarities are close enough. Can you comment on the scale you used for testing the bearing preload? Is that just a normal weight scale?

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Yes, the one I was using is just a luggage scale. A fish scale would work just fine too. Although there may be a fisherman's lie factor to adjust for 😂LOL

[@dongillespie3995]

Great videos thanks

[@ssm5372]

Great video, but how did you remove the 4 bolts that hold the housing? Mine won't budge!

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Yeah they get very corroded. Be carful it's common to break them off. Here's some tips: Use a propane torch and heat up the side of the housing following the bolt path, concentrate on the bottom 2/3 of the bolt length. When the paint starts turning a brownish burnt color that's about the right temperature. With a cutoff length of hex key use it like a punch in the bolt head and give it several sharp hammer blows. This will help break the corrosion bond, then Then try loosing it. You may need to work it back and forth and add penetrant. Keep repeating the process as needed. I've had to scrap several units that lived most of there life's in saltwater do to the frozen bolts. If they snap off at the threads they can be drilled out and saved. The ones that snap off just below the bolt head are almost impossible to save. It's the bolt shank that's the issue in most cases.

[@ssm5372]

Thanks for the detailed advice! If they won't come out I may snap them off or drill the heads out, take it apart, heat up the remaining shanks and get them out that way. I may have to weld nuts onto the shanks to remove them. If that works, I may try putting in studs and have nuts and washers to tighten everything down. I don't know why they didn't use studs and nuts to begin with so the corroded threads would be right in front of you instead of hiding the problem 1/3 of the way into the unit body. My problem is I have to replace the input shaft seal so before I do all that I may try AT205 in the oil for a season to see If it will rejuvenate the seal. I'll just have to check the oil level a lot! 😵‍💫

[@BaldGuyComedy]

Do you have any info on Power trim models like the 270pt or 280pt ? They seem super rare which makes me finding ANY repair info next to impossible.

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Absolutely right there are rare.. I've never worked on one or seen one in the wild.

[@dzmarinemechanics3238]

Hi, this upper unit that you're working on always overheats when i start the engine, in the first 20 sec os start, when i pull out the dipstick the oil is very hot and get out from the dipstick hole, what could be the problem ??

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

That could be a bad bearing

[@danmacko8795]

Possible to have you rebuild my 290sp

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Dan, send me an email [e-mail]

[@larryjohnson5597]

Now for sure I will never own a stern drive

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

They are high maintaince