Building a Loader for a Garden Tractor - Phase 3: Frame Reinforcement and 3 Point Hitch install

Part 3 of a multipart series covering the entire process of designing, building and installing a quick-attach front loader for a Case/Ingersoll garden tractor.
In this episode we reinforce the tractor's frame and install a new 3 way diverter valve and 3 point hitch. Along the way we design a new and improved parking brake pedal.

[@blacknature222]

YOUR VIDEOS PRESENTED ON BUILDING TRACTORS HAVE BEEN THE BEST VIDEOS I HAVE CAME ACROSS SO FAR. YOU EXPLAIN TO DETAIL REASONS WHY EACH PART SHOULD BE AS IT IS AND WHAT PRECAUTIONS SHOULD BE TAKEN WHILE UNDERGOING SIMILAR PROJECT. GOD BLESS YOU SIR.

[@georgefager3772]

Aa

[@Biokemist-o3k]

You continue to show that you are so much of a better engineer than anyone concerned with the original design of the tractor. However it seems that the original engineers were going for the minimum strength that was needed for the attachments that they designed . That being said there were still weak points showing up years after the useful life was expected to have ended. Really great videos.

[@JourneymanRandy]

Looking good. Very strong is the way to go and you nailed it. I can't believe the engineers couldn't come up with a better way to go around the brake drum. Actually I do believe. They want it to break so you have to buy a new machine. Well done Bob

[@csorrows]

When cost is involved, the goal is "just enough". I have done professional design work before and the pressure to reduce costs is saddening. You want to design a very nice product but the restrictions applied to you cause you to design just like everyone else.

[@rodneykiemele4721]

Looking forward to the next installment, Thanks

[@cjwebb454]

Cant wait to see more on it nice job adding strength to to frame

[@csorrows]

Those blind nuts are called "rivnuts" seeing as it is a cross between a rivet and a nut.

[@marlapulsipher3624]

Alan here those holes are referred to as for plug welding.

[@averyintrusive7610]

Great commentary

[@TheBuildist]

Thanks!

[@chriskilla247]

I have the same tractorit's not necessary to do all the upgrades to that I have a loader on mine been on there for a couple years come on now it a ingersoll

[@TheBuildist]

Thanks for your input. In my opinion, for the duty that I intend to use this loader, the upgrades are necessary, at least for my tractor. If you have an Ingersoll 6018 or 7018 with the factory loader, then no upgrades are needed. If your design spec is for a 200lb loader structure and no more than about 500lbs capacity, then your front axle and frame may be ok. But my loader structure will be closer to 400lbs, and my intended capacity is 1000lbs minimum, so the upgraded frame and axle and spindles are a must for my situation. Thanks again. Can you share a link to some photos of your loader?

[@chriskilla247]

@@TheBuildist No I have the same exact tractor as you do a 4020

[@johngturner]

@@chriskilla247 I would like to see the pictures of your loader as well! Can you share a link?

[@MrGordy61]

Hey looking good. Google "coltcaseingersoll" looks like you would make a great member to the site. It is an older site with lots of archives, and pretty active. I saw you on the other new site ;-) One thing CCI has 3 trusted dealers, and you really need to get the seal for around the oil filter to the tin, it is important for proper cooling air flow over the valve area on that side of the engine,to avoid valve problems. With the mower back on you may want to look at adding some more stiffener support from the main frame to the rear axle. There are ears on the bottom of the axle for a sleeve hitch to mount to, you should be able to mount a brace to those ears and up to where the frame is full height. This will arrest the axles tendency to want to roll (top) to the rear when pushing forward and roll forward when backing up. The busted frames I have seen were using either the front push blade, or rear one bottom plows and cultivators. Of course popping wheelies will stress it to ;-) So your loader when digging will definitely stress that part of the frame. Cheers, Gordy

[@TheBuildist]

Gordie, thanks for the excellent and helpful advice! I'll definitely check out that shroud for the oil filter area and take a look at adding the axle bracing as you suggested.

[@thelibertyworkshop2952]

I'm curious about the capacity of that diverter valve ... I've been rebuilding these garden tractors in the same class as what you're working on for some time , and each one that I have tested for relief pressure on the lift circuit have tested between 900 and 1050 psi ... Do the Case / Ingersalls run lower system pressure than the others ?? Thanks ... Good vid series btw ...

[@TheBuildist]

Great question, and thanks! These Cases and Ingersolls effectively have two different hydraulic circuits, a main high pressure circuit to drive the transaxle/wheels (relief set at 1600 PSI) and another circuit to drive the deck lift cylinder (relief set at 575 PSI) I just put my diverter valve into the existing deck lift circuit, diverting its pressure to either cylinder and effectively hydro-locking the isolated cylinder. But since the relief is at 575, that's all my diverter valve has to handle. Since mine is a power steering model, it also has a third circuit created by installing a flow divider right out of the pump, diverting about 2.5 gpm to the power steering control valve (which has it's own relief valve) and sending the remainder onto the 2 main/lift circuits.

[@homemadetools]

Coming along nicely. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week :)

[@stevelecain886]

that parking brake mod is genius .

[@OldeGuido1]

I like your pin spanner.

[@TheWorld-of7dd]

I was thinking of making my own loader but the cost to build one where I live is quite high and to buy even a mini loader is hard to find and very expensive

[@kevintomb]

When you say the frame stock is 80 thousandths, that equates to about 5/64 approx...I was under that assumption that case and Ingersoll frames were thicker than that, although just going from memory.

[@TheBuildist]

Yes, I guess I did say that on camera. I wouldn't have been so precise if I hadn't recently measured it so it must be right around 80 thousandths

[@endall6783]

I watched all these vids and liked them. I went to you site and tried to find something on your 3 point hitch but nothing have you a vid on that would really like to see one thanks.

[@TheBuildist]

I don't have footage of building it, but perhaps I can do a review/overview.