THE DEATH OF STYLE | A DISCUSSION ON THE FUTURE OF MEN'S STYLE

In this video your host discusses his thoughts about future of men's style, the impact of huge 'fashion' conglomerates on the industry, and how we can make a difference.
If you would like to become a Patreon of the The Chap's Guide channel and help with the funding of future content, please consider becoming a regular contributor via the easy to use Patreon website: / chapsguide
If you would like to support future content, a donation would be deeply appreciated via the 'buy me a coffee' website - www.buymeacoff...
Don't forget to check out my Instagram feed for daily chap updates: chapsguide
If you have a question to pose The Chap's Guide, please send it to: [e-mail]
=============================================================================
Equipment used in this filming of this video (Amazon links):
Camera - Canon Eos 250D: amzn.to/3bFaY7F
Lens - Cannon EFS 24mm f/2.8 STM: amzn.to/3aFT0kd
Tripod - K & F Incept Tripod: amzn.to/3eR5BEy
GorillaPod - Joby: amzn.to/35cJW5d
Shotgun microphone - Rode Video Mic Pro: amzn.to/3aKoSEw
Lavalier microphone: amzn.to/3cOEuYM
Studio lights - Neewer dimmable 2-pack LED studio lights: amzn.to/2Y6BsLB
#chapsguide #ashjones #mensstyle

[@finger351]

Don't let China take our style, I'm going to wear a tie today to sit around and read a book.

[@KadeBronson]

based

[@finger351]

@@KadeBronson Baste?

[@bkucinschi]

"In the war between Quality and Quantity, it's Quantity that always wins." Just don't remember exactly who said that....

[@ElBoyoElectronico]

My wife and I started caring more and more about good clothing and now started to only buy tailored quality clothes, as they just provide a better experience and last longer. How people can buy clothes or even shoes online has always been a mystery to me.

[@StruanRobertson2911]

These days.....I don't buy these cheaply made clothes....as you say, they don't last and wear out quickly...spend a bit more on the quality ..and it pays for itself

[@shanilramdhin100]

Hi Ash, the death of style has reached eye brow raising proportions, whether it is at the office, at the shopping centre, or at restaurants, the lack of effort in getting dressed is beyond words, and unfortunately that has translated to the attitude of people. Love your channel. Greetings from Johannesburg, South Africa

[@adam_meade]

I usually don't care much about what other people wear, but recently at a very nice restaurant the guy at the next table was wearing an ice hockey jersey and matching baseball cap for his favorite team. I wanted to say "Come on man, this isn't McDonald's".

[@Come_on_geeza]

Unfortunately I feel the type of people thay buy cheap clothing like this probably won't be watching these types of videos

[@Rhysees]

@user-vl6xt2rt7p I can second this comment. I’m in Melbourne Australia and if I dress properly with quality clothing I get looks that range from angry to jealous and usually get cast aside as elitist by majority .. however that being said people still increase their respect for you magically.

[@davegeronimi8183]

Greetings from Australia. Love your content. I always try to buy quality, especially when it comes to shoes. I bought myself a pair of RM Williams boots on my 50th birthday, I've worn them all over the world. I'm 63 this year and they still look new.

[@Grannn]

My father always insisted that I should look at the quality and not the price. This obviously has its limitations based on your own personal income, but if you can afford to spend slightly more for a better product, go for it! My grandfather also had a similar mentality and kept saying that "we are to poor to afford cheap things"

[@nickkambitis5340]

Totally agree Ash, I tend to stick with mostly British brands like Crockett and Jones, John Smedley, Paul Smith and various Italian brands. I also am a fan of Mr Porter and mostly choose ethically made items. Temu are a pain in the arse! Their adds pop up everywhere. Great work Ash

[@gustafrenstrom8549]

I agree 100% the majority of clothes are not made to last anymore so i am trying as much as possible to buy high quality European made clothes to support what little remains of our clothes industry.

[@tobias1752]

First, I avoid buying online at all cost. The joy of buying is the result of getting informations about the item, visiting a local shop, trying on, feeling the texture, checking the quality..the thinking how to create outfits.. and of course a coffee.. Shopping this way satisfies, a great experience worth the extra penny.. The result is a smaller but good quality wardrobe without any chinese made crap.. Not to forget, it’s support of democratic countries who share the same values as I do.. thanks for sharing your opinions! 🇬🇧🇩🇪🇪🇺💪

[@daniell2217]

Well said!!

[@TuneinR]

Well the chinese made crap are from western brands😂😂😂😂😂

[@tobias1752]

@@TuneinR Well it’s possible to check out, where the tissue is woven, the item is made.. many labels produce in Portugal, Romania or Italy.. or even the US.. good shoes are crafted in the UK.. so you‘ve possibilities.. for sure not the cheapest, but e.g. Pini Parma is 100% made in Italy, März b.Schwanen t-shirts are woven in Germany.. as a customer I decide where my money goes to..

[@TuneinR]

@@tobias1752 i also have crab from those mentioned countries.Where it is made is not always equals to quality.Tell your western brands to stop making things in china and leave the chinese out of this.

[@tobias1752]

@@TuneinR therefore I prefer personal shopping, to check the quality.. you‘ll find crap in every country of the world. At least in the mentioned countries the labour environment has certain standards…

[@rjds1800]

It's a fair comment and I see it in channels all around, reality is starting to bite and effecting ordinary people like you n me. Regardless of subject matter the things that are wrong with the world are showing up all over. It's the way people handle it and showing the correct attitude or outlook.👍👍👍

[@EddieRiff]

I have always bought Paul Smith, saved and splurged. I still have shirts, short, long and Tee'd from 80's, 90's 2k's and current. As well as knitwear and jeans, still in vogue, wearable in any era. He has recently offered a "Refresh" service for vintage items of his clothing. I aint well off but i know a sharp, quality bit of schmutta when i see it. I do t need Rolex, i am and have always been happy with Rotary, cheaper and very reliable.

[@philallsopp42]

I visited Dege & Skinner yesterday in Scottsdale, Arizona. They are conducting trunk shows in the US. It was a fantastic experience. I ordered a bespoke waistcoat from Dege & Skinner. My final fitting is in London in September when I'm over there on business. What a fabulous experience. The Dege & Skinner staff were simply the best I've ever encountered. Repairing and enhancing IS the way to go. Its why I ordered my waistcoat to make my two piece all NZ wool suit into a 3 piece. My experience with Barbour's factory repair program (in North Carolina in the US) was also fantastic. Re-waxed and the cuffs repaired with a fine leather band. Fabulous service. Thanks for the video, Ash...

[@AppealToHeaven]

I have a Barbour and send my coat for rewaxing and refurb every year to North Carolina and they are fantastic. I need to do more research for repairable clothing for all pieces not just outerwear.

[@mileswoodard4278]

Great video Ash, you definitely opened my eyes. I have several quality clothes that I've had for years that I definitely plan on keeping for years!

[@hibernopithecus7500]

Always better to buy 2nd hand quality than brand new crap.

[@kummiekins]

I fully enjoyed this discussion, and wholeheartedly agree we could all do more to combat blind consumerism. Fast fashion is mostly plain garbage nowadays. A few years back, long before Shein or Temu came onto the scene, I decided I wanted better quality clothes by sewing them myself. Fortunately for me i live in a tropical country so my go to choices for materials are cottons and linens and these are easy to work with. Even just by learning to sew one can easily turn that skill into mending. Learning to properly care for your clothes also helps in keeping them around for longer.

[@ronaldpoppe3774]

I Always buy quality and 2nd hand when I can. I have four Barbour coats one of which is 40 years old. It is a bit tattered. I also have a very nice UK made Harris Tweed jacket the same age that I still wear. When I was a lad I always wore Florsheim shoes and had the soles replaced when they wore out. Thanks for sharing Ash. Cheers Ron

[@shedactivist]

Why does the modern suits in fancy chequer designs never fit the wearer. Always too short, too tight, and with gaps where the shirt shows through at the belly. Is it because they were designed to fit Chinese people and sold to westerners?

[@simonhodgetts6530]

Off the peg - no one gets anything altered to fit properly anymore. Also, a lot of suits are ‘slim fit’ - it’s the current fashion. Even Mr Sunak, who has his suits tailor-made for him has them too tight and too short.

[@JamesAlexander14]

Get measured before paying good money on an off the shelf product. Nobody is average, but mass produced clothes are always made for Mr Average.

[@johnalex1345]

Last year I threw all my clothes away that were made of cheap fabrics. I went online to buy better clothes made of natural fabrics like linen and cotton for shirts and trousers, and mulberry silk for socks. It was really expensive but don't have any regrets, and ever since I haven't bought cheap clothes ever since. I found out that linen, cotton, and mulberry silk is very ideal for the hot weather where I live.

[@edbee8508]

I'm in Brisbane Australia and I've done exactly the same thing. The summer just gone was horrendous and I handled the heat better than ever.

[@curtnicol3756]

I think one of the major problems with these mega-companies is the ***VAST*** majority of the general public don't understand the difference between price and value. Cost per wear is the important metric, not cost to buy.

[@robertyoung7264]

You make some excellent points. From a personal perspective when finances allow we should try to buy well and buy once. I'm lucky to be in my sixties now and still have formal clothes I bought in my twenties including a DJ and a tweed jacket. Whilst the DJ doesn't get worn too often the tweed jacket is worn about once a week. It was made in England locally to me but was off the peg. Whilst it was relatively expensive the cost per wear over the decades is far less than had I bought a series of cheap poor quality jackets. Thanks for making the video Ash and for your channel.

[@tonyc2489]

Some Savile Row tailors have been contributing to their own downfall for some time now. I watched a video a couple of years ago, where the tailor in Savile Row, said that after measuring the customer up, the paper templates were sent to China to be cut and assembled. The final fitting only were completed in the shop. All probably done through necessity, to lower costs, but will no doubt see the end of all but a few English tailors.

[@misteroz]

Your videos are always enjoyable sir, but this may be the most important one you’ve done. Keep up the good fight!

[@arcabuz]

Spaniard here. I mostly buy items made in Europe. UK included. Since years ago. Expensive?, maybe. But I buy less. I repair more. We have in Europe an exceptional industry around clothing and complements, an exceptional quality. Let’s protect and nurture it.

[@themoderndandy713]

It's my birthday about an hour at the time of this comment! I'm turning twenty-four. (I'm in America, if that clears up any confusion about time difference.) It's a standard birthday tradition for me to wear morning dress for afternoon tea and white tie for dinner. I suppose this video comes at a good time for that. This year, a good friend is joining me for both tea and dinner. She has an exquisite sense of style! I know all of this is a bit of a non sequitur for this video, but I'm excited for tomorrow. Thank you for the content, Ash.

[@TheChapsGuide]

Many happy returns - have a wonderful birthday sir

[@themoderndandy713]

@@TheChapsGuide Thank you kindly! All the best.

[@unbekannternutzer852]

Happy birthday!

[@RaoulKunz1]

Just noticed I mistook the time, so I'll kick my paranoid superstitions under the table and wish you a direct Happy Birthday!😆🍻🥂 Best regards Raoul G. Kunz

[@themoderndandy713]

@@unbekannternutzer852 Thank you!

[@Sozialkompetenz]

I bought Italian handmade shoes from Officine Creative for 650€ a pair and they cannot be repaired. I’m flabbergasted.

[@sparkyblazeup1]

Aren't Shein and Temu auxiliaries of the CCP?

[@MarkmanOTW]

I absolutely agree, Ash - well said! I am a major advocate of sustainability having driven this agenda across fashion, clothing and other industry sectors, including national/local government as well as within my own life . Having a joined-up understanding helps make more informed decisions - keeping it stylish, maintaining our heritage and craftsmanship. This week I've just sent my 20 yr old wax stockman coat for minor repairs (popper tears and lining frayed cuffs), cleaning and rewaxing. It may well cost me around £100, but that will be money well spent in my view. Yes I could buy a new one for a few quid more, but the quality, integrity, wear and comfort of mine is part of me (and appreciated/commented on by friends).

[@steveandisaw3522]

My estimation of Ash went up by several hundred per cent when I saw that he likes camping.

[@flasherol3764]

I think Style is going out of fashion. Lots of people are not wearing suits and quality Shoes, anymore. Most wear just for comfort .

[@edmund415]

The most stylish people I’ve seen are poor artists and a few homeless black guys. I just buy 70’s golf shirts and wear them everywhere.

[@alalder1533]

This last winter I moved away from traditional wool jumpers for outdoor wear and decided to buy a fleece. The first fleece I bought cost me over £100, the next three were each around £25. After listening to this video I've just had a look at the origin of these fleeces. The £100 fleece is a Danish brand designed in Denmark but made in Vietnam. The other three are all branded by English companies but marked made in PRC so I assume they are wholly Chinese. I've five heavy winter jumpers - all wool all hand knitted; two locally and three in Scotland - OED!!

[@martinbonniciphotography]

Such a proper subject matter for our times, Ash. I have a number of items from some of the brands you have mentioned. It's true they aren't cheep, at least not up front. However, they get better with age and they last and most important, as you said they can be repaired and keep their quality. These days, I will not purchase anything as much as possible that is made in certain countries. If I am purchasing something from the USA, I want to know it was made there, here in Europe that it was at minimum made here in Europe and the same goes for Australia, that it was made there. Support good local brands/business BUT, they also have to give good service back, like most to the brands you have mentioned. I will say these days, I do have another category. If brands and or businesses get involved in any political nonsense, I drop them and never return. I think that is another topic though.

[@Olyfrun]

A fascinating video! I'll tell you, the title stopped me in my tracks. Some great points made, and I will be following your direction.

[@mustermatt7960]

Great video, thank‘s a lot!

[@AppealToHeaven]

New subscriber. I refuse to use temu for the fact it's Chinese but it's very difficult to find quality product anymore. I have a very limited budget making matters worse...compounded by the fact I'm built like a linebacker and hard to fit.

[@louisebrown4622]

Thank you this interesting and thoughtful presentation. You are of course correct and I hope people listen to what you say.

[@hoozat007]

Very interesting topic, Ash. I have become much more cognizant of these issues in recent years and I dislike the idea of buying mass-produced cheap products. I live in Canada and it distresses me how little we manufacture in this country anymore. If you go to some shops it’s difficult to find ANYTHING that is not made in China. I’m not a wealthy man by any means, but I actively try to buy higher quality and more sustainable items whenever possible.

[@SimonChambers]

Thanks for this video! I put a lengthy post on Real Men Real Style today addressing many of these points :). Looking into the local fibreshed for your area is a great way to buy local and support local if you can.

[@gene2049]

Men in America don’t dress up anymore unless for a special event. Work is casual too.

[@vrdrew63]

Great stuff, Ash! Hope you are enjoying your retreat during this somewhat chilly and wet late English spring. I've always been a strong believer in the idea of "Show - don't tell!" And when it comes to clothing and style, the best way of achieving this is through one's own personal sartorial appearance. Make it a personal goal of making sure that one's own personal clothing is always appropriate to the circumstances. Never be afraid to dress like you thought about your appearance.. Take some time to make sure the colours in your outfits go well together. Make sure your clothes fit properly. That they are cleaned and maintained. That you hang and fold them properly. Don't buy junk. Don't be afraid to dress well, and to invest appropriately in quality items of clothing and footwear. As ZZ Top so eloquently put it: "Every girl's crazy 'bout a sharp-dressed man"

[@colinmckenzie4859]

Turnbull and Asser - $700 AUD for a shirt !!! How can that possibly be a fair price. It’s priced that way for a specific reason and it’s nothing to do with human rights, integrity etc - it pure snobbery. And you wonder why we flock to the Chinese producers.

[@twanderson7756]

Obvious common sense, but 99 out of 100 will still buy cheap foreign rubbish, usually synthetic. In the age of grunge, just how stupid and hypocritical can we be? We have to re-industrialize, protect domestic trade and get serious about sustainabilty - and get smarter in every sense. In the UK - vote SDP!

[@mgapagnolo1819]

100% Ash! Thank you for the video. I have known all these points of view for years I am happy to see and hear you articulate it so well.

[@make268]

Why do the executives of companies manufacturing Chinese plastic mass-produced products walk around in English tailor-made suits?😅

[@tomtucker83]

China has had the largest economy on the planet for all but two of the last twenty centuries. I bought my first Barbour jacket, a Solway Zipper in 1969, made in South Shields, it lasted about 40 years. I purchased a Barbour cap last year I was disappointed to find a 'made in China' label inside. Chinese MG anyone? We are awash with Chinese products, they can undercut the West because they have an unregulated labour market and vast natural resources.

[@MikeB071]

There's always going to be a market for quality over quantity. I don't think any of your viewers are going to buy anything from shein or temu. The big bubble that they've created is going to burst eventually, like all bubbles do, when people start realizing that they're paying money for garbage. Also, I think Mr. Grant rescuing Norton & Sons and making it a success proves that there's always a way to turn things around!

[@EleanorDowling-bt2qm]

Sad but true

[@swampscott2670]

It’s pretty dire. I work in a professional environment and fewer and fewer men, even executives dress even halfway properly. With shrinking demand it becomes more and more difficult to buy a good suit, some shirts and even shoes. I tried a few of the made-to-order custom places. Better than nothing and at least they fit - but not good quality - and made in third world countries. Trying to find local/US/European alternatives is increasingly difficult - especially when living far away from the few large cities that may still have these places. And I frankly refuse to go to places like New York these days (as insane as that would be to just go shopping from halfway across the country). If anyone has any recommendations in the South Eastern US, please reply.

[@KadeBronson]

Dude, I wouldn't want to go to New York City either.

[@swampscott2670]

@@KadeBronsonyeah. I used like going and spending some time. Today? No thanks. Happy to be far away from all this now.

[@rohitjacob5194]

Hi Ash, I’m in agreement with what all you have said, however, while India makes Loake shoes , there’s no repairability available. I picked up a few Loake pairs on my recent visit to UK , however I will have no choice but to junk them as there’s no repairs in India. There are circumstances where you can’t exercise your choices . It’s sad but true 😟

[@TheChapsGuide]

Only buy Loake 1880 models. They are UK produced and have a factory refurbishment programme

[@rohitjacob5194]

I got the 1880 classic and 1880 country but will have to visit UK for factory refurbishing. They want 8 weeks to do them up so it’s not cost effective. They’re new now so I still have time . What’s your take on miss brothers suits ? Picked them up too with Hewes & Curtis shirts . So far I think they’re good quality 👍🏼

[@vrdrew63]

Greetings and best wishes! I understand your issue and your frustration. My best advice is this: Keep looking. I'm highly confident that there are skilled and competent cobblers and shoe repair services that will be able to handle heel and sole repair on good quality men's dress shoes. There are a lot of very well-dressed gentlemen in India, and I doubt that all of them simply throw away a good pair of shoes as soon as its heels wear or the soles get thin. A good cobbler here in the UK can make £200 or more per day repairing shoes. And I'm sure a similarly skilled craftsperson would do equally well in India. My suggestions? Ask around. If there are lawyers or bankers or businessmen that you know, men who regularly wear suits and good shoes - ask them where they get their shoes cared for. You might need to ask older gentlemen. Or you could ask the concierges of luxury hotels for recommendations. One thing I can tell you for certain: One of the greatest - and most sincere - compliments you can bestow upon such a gentleman is to ask for his advice on a matter like this. The fact that you asked him for his counsel, wisdom, and knowledge is - perhaps - the greatest gift you could give him. Don't worry about "factory reconditioning." It's nice in theory. But a good quality cobbler (wherever he or she is working) can replace soles and heels just as well in Mumbai or New Delhi as an artisan in Northampton. Ask enough well-dressed gentlemen of your acquaintance, and I'm highly confident you'll find a good quality cobbler/shoe repair service in India.

[@faranji]

It’s a sensitive issue. I’m very mindful of where my clothing comes from, its quality, and by whom it was made. But I’ve accepted that means spending a much larger percentage of my income on clothing than most ordinary people would be okay with. Pre-owned is often a good option, but buying everything used doesn’t contribute to the livelihoods of people making new clothes being paid sustainable wages. Good clothes aren’t cheap, and cheap clothes aren’t good. But asking people to spend more can come off as elitist. I would love it if more people paid more attention to this topic, but it can be a hard ask in these times of high inflation. I really don’t know what the solution is for changing mass consumer culture, or if it’s even possible, it’s a rich topic for discussion though.

[@m.d.lawrence3399]

Spot on!!! Thanks Ash. Remarkable and educational as always.

[@krisperkarl]

Soon there will be nine billion people on this planet and they all want clothes and tons of other stuff but everyone nowadays dresses the same whether they are a Silicone Valley CEO or a so called refugee living in a container. That IS the Style of Today. So, Sir, if you are referring to FASHION, that died long ago when the Masters of Fashion i.e. the YSL"s and the Karl Lagerfelds of this world also died. Style is something one possesses or doesn't - It is not what you wear it's how you wear it.

[@andrewcarlile6232]

Excellent video, couldn't agree with you more 👍

[@QV1010]

The old saying “if it’s too good to be true then it’s mostly not” as well you gotta look out for brands that price there stuff pretty responsible but actual products are garbage for that price,I fell to that. So after some exp I now buy from brands that either have a physical store/dealer near me or somewhere in the world which tells me they are confident to show their product in person. There is always use on the internet or vintage shops. I believe people should spend their money the way they should but should also consider what they are buying if this gonna last them or be rubbish.

[@mahmoudghoneim8004]

I would slightly disagree about iconic style houses being a victim, all over the years they haven't succeeded to promote real style and the benefits of buying high quality products not to mention positioning themselves as products for the elite instead of putting the effort on how to modernize their processes in a way that while still offering a high quality product at a well worked price, I hate the idea of working very hard as a consumer to earn my income to end up paying it to some lazy guy who claims outlandish prices only because he is happy to produce one piece every I don't know how many weeks and expects to live a lavish lifestyle out of making this one piece, that isn't fair by any measure, they either have to change or they must eventually go out of business. As of the dominance of China I think we have to admire what they have reached across all industries offering various levels of quality at many different price points ensuring to offer value all the time , look for instance at watches where they have produced fantastic copies at a fraction of the price of their Swiss originals and while I will never buy them for ethical reasons it had opened my mind to how exaggerated are the prices of the original especially looking at how much they pay for their embassadors who has nothing to do with the product itself but you are also contributing with your spend in his lifestyle.

[@stephendownes6331]

The same punters who buy this crap are the first to protest how their parents and grandparents destroyed the environment yet fast fashion is one of if not the largest sources of landfill and micro plastics in that environment. Buy old, buy classic and buy quality but it won't make any difference except to you, the mob will still cheer at the games for the odd chance of a loaf of bread.

[@PotsdamSenior]

I even try to buy as local as possible even when buying second hand (which is... most of the time). And I support local businesses after that. When I spend a whopping 20 or even more Euros for a great second hand suit, I want it to fit. And last. Seamstresses and tailors in my town are happy to help me there, for alterations and repairs I can't do myself - I can alter and mend my shirts and trousers with a good enough (for me) result, but for jackets I need a professional. And a local cobbler will take care of my (second hand) shoes, because those cost me almost as much as a suit. 10 to 20 Euros a pair. It's amazing what kind of hardly ever worn good quality items people are willing to practically throw away after paying hundreds of Euros for them, just because it's 1pm and the 11am style went "out of fashion" or whatever. Generations worth of clothing already produced? I absolutely believe that!

[@Alexander-xq1gr]

Very solid message Sir, well done.

[@mikebodner1812]

Great insight Ash. My strategy is to buy good natural materials, then repairs and alterations go further. My wool sweaters over 10 years old have been repaired, and are still wearing great. Sweaters with nylon and other synthetic products have a 5-6 year shelf life, and are not repairable.

[@timhibbart5827]

I don't think this just relates to style and it does just boil down money unfortunately.

[@karlmodry716]

Shein and Temu really are a disaster. Everyone should know this, I get so angry every time others are advocating those saying others do the same-no, they don't.

[@void1984]

Temu is the advertisement I got at the beginning of your material.

[@StruanRobertson2911]

Looking trim ash....diet?

[@TheChapsGuide]

Actually put some on recently on holiday. I’ll be dieting next week….. honest!

[@SAGHAJAR]

Fashions come and go but classic style always remains.

[@girafficparkgaming]

Hi Ash. Jason the actor is Statham not Stratham as mentioned in your hair loss video

[@rabbishlabinowitz4559]

You are right on the mark. People should stop buying CRAP!!!

[@SAGHAJAR]

The set and background noise are very disturbing.

[@darrenkerr3495]

Unfortunately this world has now become a race to the bottom.

[@PaulSThomas]

Ash, I also live in South Wales. Do you mind me asking where you get your tailoring alterations done? I’m struggling a bit to find a suitable provider that doesn’t just do suits. Advice would be appreciated, as are you excellent videos.

[@TheChapsGuide]

I left Wales many years ago upon marriage sir, but it is always a struggle to find a good tailor wherever one lives. I found my present tailor via an internet search of local amenities. Give that a try for a start.

[@Fush1234]

I dont really think that you’ll ever convince me, any Gentleman who is interested in all things Sartorial and garments of quality, would seriously look at anything Chinese… that makes me laugh. 😂😂😂. Na. Cheep garbage clothing or accessories yes.. but thats not sartorial a gentlemen. That’s Hospice shop level shopping. Please … introduce me to one of them. I’ll buy you dinner at a flash restaurant……?

[@Olyfrun]

Well, let's not denigrate all things Chinese! Certainly these big soulless corporations can go forth and multiply, but don't throw out the baby with the bathwater

[@PotsdamSenior]

​@@OlyfrunI'm absolutely sure the Chinese make excellent products, clothes and other. But they keep those for themselves and sell their rubbish to other countries.

[@Fush1234]

@@Olyfrun - very low cost..very low quality..slave like labor..feel free to suggest a product that is reasonable quality. I can think of any

[@brunom6153]

Big hug from Portugal Ash!

[@watchinout1897]

Fantastic video Ash, I couldn't agree more! Please tell me the brand of shirt/jacket you have on? I must get one!!

[@TheChapsGuide]

it is a Costco 'Kirkland' brand T-shirt (£10) and an AndSons Carver Jacket (£160).

[@tonyfarrant1095]

There is great joy in researching and supporting your British brands!

[@Gravs.88]

Hi Ash, how do you square the circle of buying second hand clothing and supporting traditional brands?

[@TheChapsGuide]

It is possible to do both

[@philw4053]

You know I love your content Ash but have to ask - did you really need another luxury watch 😊 ? But in all seriousness - very good points and I will indeed think before I buy. The problem is we (humans) are not 100% rational, and most are materialistic to some degree. It makes absolutely no sense to buy a Rolex (for example) when that money could potentially save numerous childrens' lives somewhere in the world. If you could actually see in front of you the children you could save vs. the watch in the window most would of course save the children and live without the watch. But we are not rational and make stupid decisons every day (myself included). All we can do, I guess, is strive to be better and your video will no doubt help that process.

[@TheChapsGuide]

I sold one and bought one. Equilibrium is maintained

[@jonathanb2622]

With respect Phil, since when was the choice between an individual saving the lives of children or buying a Rolex? Is this dichotomy only levelled at individuals buying one-off expensive items, such as a Rolex? What about the accumulated annual expenditure of people who spend a small fortune on buying cigarettes and alcohol for themselves every week but could otherwise save all of that money and spend it in a more positive way by donating it to help save children? Do you make the same suggestion to them? Given that a luxury watch is likely to last and give pleasure throughout a lifetime, and may appreciate in value and become an heirloom, I have to say that I would feel like I was making a stupid and irrational decision by donating all of that money and thinking it would make more than a drop in the ocean's difference in the long-term, instead of buying myself the Rolex (I say this as someone who donates every month out of my pay packet to a handful of charities). I would rather buy the Rolex and volunteer my spare time closer to home at a homeless charity or such like. I agree that rampant consumerism is bad and one of global society's problems, but nobody need feel guilty about choosing to spend their money on something so worthwhile as a luxury timepiece, particularly if that is their passion and hobby. I realise your question was to Ash and he has replied but I wanted to respectfully disagree.

[@philw4053]

@jonathanb2622 If you read my post it wasn't directed at Ash. More to humanity in general (including myslef). It may not be palatable but every time we spend money on non essential goods we could have directed that money in a direction that directly helped people to enjoy a better life - or indeed save lives. This is just a fact. The reasons why all of us don't donate all of our excess disposal income was my point (acknowledging we all do not do this). More a philosophical question than anything. I think it's an interesting thought experiment.....

[@jonathanb2622]

@@philw4053 It is an interesting thought experiment, but true altruism is quite rare in all of nature, not just in humans. I daresay I would have little problem giving away a large proportion of my disposable income to help a close relative, but I am much less likely to do so for a person I share little genetic relatedness with. This is just how altruism in the natural world works, from humans to honeybees - acts that appear altruistic are driven by genetic relatedness and the desire to help more of an individual's genes propagate, through themselves or by providing resources to help close relatives. Humans transcend this and do sometimes donate a relatively small part of their income to individuals they share no real relatedness with, but I think you are unlikely to find many who would willingly donate all excess disposable income in this way. Genes drive behaviour and, cold as it may seem, from a genetic perspective it makes little sense to give away large proportions of your resources to help anyone other than a close relative. It would actually make far more sense to buy a Rolex for your own son, thereby increasing and enhancing his attractiveness in finding a partner, than it would to donate the equivalent value to help someone else's children you shared little relatedness with.

[@florianschaefer2527]

I think the biggest problem of these companies is, that for so many years now price and quality often don't match. Your example is extreme, comparing a traditional tailor to a conglomarate of fast fashion. But as you may know, the middle ground pretty much evaporated, when many of the regular shops decided to produce their products in the sweat-shop next door with nearly the same poor quality. So why now spend hundreds of Euros on a shirt, when it is practicly the same garbage, I can buy on the internet for say 1/10 the price. Another thing is, that you need to know about these shops. For example, I started my sartorial journey a year ago and I still have to wrap my head around all these styles. And sure my German mentality of "Geiz ist geil" gets the better of me all too often. So no, as long as our movement is growing strong, I don't think, that style is dying

[@the_9ent]

Hi Ash. Can you recommend a brand that make business socks that stay up? Thanks in advance

[@TheChapsGuide]

Corgi.

[@aldobega2649]

Great video! Unfortunately, the world is moving towards a trend of low-quality, high-volume, and low-price fashion. Young people, who dominate the fashion market, are accustomed to this. They love the idea of wearing a different outfit every day. However, in a way, this trend works to our advantage. Those of us who value quality, longevity, and craftsmanship will find the sartorial world, especially the second-hand market, tailored just for us. Of course, I care about the planet and future generations, but let's be honest-we can't change the course of fashion history just by avoiding brands like Temu or SHEIN. So, let's accept reality and preserve our traditions within our small community.

[@simonhodgetts6530]

A walk around the shops in my local town reveals a majority of people wearing ill fitting leisurewear, trainers and with generally no awareness of or pride in their appearance. That’s their choice - but it’s a shame that people have become so apathetic. Personally, I choose not to follow that path. Unless I’m doing jobs at home, I try hard to dress well. I try to buy good quality clothes, shoes and boots, and look after them. I have a nice watch, remain clean shaven and always wear cologne or after shave. It’s not hard, or too expensive if you are savvy. It boosts my confidence no end to turn out to work, or a social gathering in a shirt and tie, jacket, pocket square, pressed chinos and polished brogues. If anything I’d like to send my style further back, and re-adopt the double breasted suit, pleated trousers with turn ups, maybe a hat and good overcoat. Finally, it breaks my heart when I have to ‘retire’ an item of clothing - I always end up looking for an exact replacement. It’s a pity that shirt collars can’t be turned anymore - that would have saved my favourite work shirt!

[@madhattersc4051]

Refuse to download any of those mass market clothing apps. There is something about buying items that have some craftsmanship. Anxious for a day I can afford some bespoke items, but until then I try to buy as much as I can from traditional brands.

[@agw100100]

I strongly agree. Not clothing, but by a wide margin, the most unexpected example I've discovered. Colgate toothpaste! When I read the label on the tube I could hardly believe it so I rang the UK phone number on the tube and confirmed its origin. Shipping toothpaste from China seems crazy to me.

[@renangaidheal1320]

It is ironic that the companies that make durable, quality goods put themselves in a bind because their products do indeed last and thus they either have to charge more (less repeat business) or find new clients. Tricker's comes to mind: shoes and boots that can be repaired a lifetime after one purchase. What is Tricker's to do? As for the profit-seeking, labour exploiting, environmentally indifferent conglomerates---we can each commit to denying them our hard earned cash.

[@RobertJonesWightpaint]

Shein, Temu, generic companies - including those that are trying to build an empire on the Peaky Blinder phenomenon - this isn't tailoring, it sure as hell isn't style: the worst of them are - as you rightly say - crap: cheap, horrible, tat. I shall buy Mr Grant's book, though it's likely to depress me. I do buy from sources I've investigated and trust: the trouble is that two of the companies I've used have gone bust... and those remaining are expensive - BUT - while you might back away from, say an expensive pair of trousers, they're more likely to fit; and they will last; and they're not woven out of plastic thread. The danger is that these massive companies will drive the quality businesses to the wall, as people go for cheap, cheerful, junk. Removing VAT on clothing repairs is a great idea, and as soon as we have a new MP, I'll write to them - because they're unlikely to think of it otherwise.

[@jhillier449]

My wardrobe is 90% thrift store buys. Crombie, Allen Edmonds, Harris Tweed, Brooks Brothers to name a few for pennies on the dollar.

[@saltaireorangebicyclechopp8555]

I'm in Jerez right now for a month, 90% of people make an effort to dress well for an evening out, astonishing. The low is the young men still have a penchant for wearing sneakers with a suit. 😢 Still, it's a change from the UK where most adults now dress like infants and middle aged men wear Levis & Adidas Sambas to take their woman out....

[@LaBeletteQuiPionce]

If a change of management turned a business around, I doubt the problem is chinese manufacturer. More likely that the business no longer offered what people wanted and couldn't figure out how to renew themselves.

[@michaelblazin4093]

A number of legitimate designers have clothes made of good materials in Asia and maybe Eastern Europe. While I would not put these items, for me shirts mostly, at the head of my clothing quality, they seem adequate to fill gaps, e.g., linen long sleeve shirts in summer. Is that a bad compromise? I did buy one Temu shirt and made the mistake of ironing it. The second one now only gets the a cycle in the dryer with a wet towel treatment, something that I learned on another channel.

[@kevinbutler1968]

Excellent video and happy to 100% support your aims. In the last year, I have bought either japanese denim jeans or jeans made in London by Black horse lane atelier. I have bought jumpers made in Hawick in the Scottish borders and even socks and underpants from Community Clothing, which is Patrick Grant's "made in the Uk" company. When my wife and I shop, we already consider where something is made and what material?. It may cost more but it is worth it in the long run.

[@stephendownes6331]

I remember seeing a picture of a young boy in Holland given a new pair of used shoes, he was just a little boy and simply ecstatic at the gift. Kep it simple stupid as they say.

[@kaykunz4730]

I agree with you Ash. So many traditional companies have disappeared or are a shadow of its former self. I love the old trench coats and raincoats from Aquascutum. What the current Chinese owner Shandong Ruyi Technology Group Co., Ltd has made out this traditional, british icon, makes me sad.

[@Bjartone]

Thanks för the tips. I live in Stockholm, Sweden, and certainly never before heard of tax reduction on repairs. I do service and repair as much as I possible can on my clothes and shoes, etc., but, partly due to the inflation, the cost is sky high.

[@williamcreitz7759]

Excellent discussion and issues raised Ash. Thank you for tackling this subject and for your suggested "Action Items." You continue to inspire me with your insight, discernment, and the articulate manner in which you address important subjects for your audience. Keep up the great work.

[@kents.2866]

Never buy shoes you can't repair. Although to get trousers or a jacket taken in or out, long gone are the days of 4 inches of seam allowance unless you are buying bespoke.

[@steveearnshaw5426]

Much of these poor quality clothing items are worn a few times and end up in a landfill. The only thing remaining is a higher balance on my credit card.

[@davixavier3261]

Hello Ash, Thank you for sharing this content with us. Sir, I have a question for you if you don’t mind answering it. Since you have sold your Rolex Explorer, the watch you used to wear when camping, which watch have you been wearing now? Thank you in advance, and keep out the great work. Cheers!

[@TheChapsGuide]

I have been wearing my Nirvada Grenchen Depthmaster this summer. I actually have not missed the Explorer one beat.

[@davixavier3261]

@@TheChapsGuide thank you for answering. The Nivada is a great watch! Nice choice. :) Cheers!

[@philparkinson462]

Excellent post Ash; I couldn't agree more. I'm afraid this is an extension of our 'throw away' culture in general and will prove hard to reverse as already so deeply entrenched. I think the only way to at least partially mitigate is taxing such items heavily..but it demands a total change in mentality also.

[@w.adammandelbaum1805]

In Traditional tailoring, one hears of the roll of the lapel. In Chinese "style" we have the egg roll of the lapel. Merely a cultural difference.

[@johnbunton9177]

You raise some excellent points here, Ash, regarding companies operating out of China like SHEIN. Not only are the materials used inferior and the construction of garments incredibly shoddy, but there are major concerns as well regarding the exploitation of workers and damage to the natural environment. Unfortunately, more and more people feel they cannot afford to even buy middle-of-the-road clothing manufactured in the first world under union conditions where workers' rights and health and safety regulations are enforced. Middle class people simply do not have the incomes to be patronizing bespoke Saville Row clothiers. -As a retired high school teacher, the best I can hope for is that I can occasionally find a designer jacket or tie at my local thrift store/charity shop. I'd say that about 90% of all mass market consumer goods are completely superfluous to people living a comfortable, dignified and productive life. -Mass marketing to create artificial needs in the hearts and minds of consumers is, unfortunately, nothing new. (Ray Davies of the Kinks was writing songs like "Brainwashed" more than half a century ago.) An excellent video, Ash. As always.

[@trondeltervaag2166]

Style will never die. It might just change a bit. Style will always be able to handle the most important changes in society and implement gently, I think/hope 🙂