Making A Shirt // A Pattern Drafting and Sewing Diary

You may be used to seeing me make things that are super fitted by now, but today I'm ignoring a few darts and making something with a bit of ease for once. Here is one way to make a shirt, there are hundreds of other options, but I have already made another of these in the last week I ended up liking this shirt so much!
The blog post I used for drafting and sewing the sleeve tabs/placket/thingys : off-the-cuff-shirtmaking.blogs...
Music and Sound Effects from Epidemic Sound.
Need to make a block pattern? There are many options, and I talk about several in this playlist! : • Making a Bodice Block ...
Where I get my pattern drafting paper: atlaslevy.com/Paper_c_13.html (not sponsored)
More from me?
Want to help me continue making more videos? Listen to me ramble on in a monthly podcast? Watch an additional project video each month? Peruse my Patreon here: / theclosethistorian
Blog: theclosethistorian.blogspot.com/
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Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/shop/TheClosetHi...
Pinterest: / bmesposito
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Beauty Instagram: / thehistoriansvanity
Beauty Channel: / thehistoriansvanity
But wait there's more! A PO BOX finally wahoo!
First, a disclaimer: So many of you have kindly offered to send me things, including vintage items you may have inherited, and I am so honored you would think of me and of course I do adore vintage treasures, however, unfortunately I only have so much storage space currently! So there is a chance that if something just wont work for me, or doesn't fit me etc, that I may not be able to keep all of your lovely things. Please only send things if you are okay with the possibility that I may donate items I just cannot keep. If you would prefer I put things that I can't keep into the TCH Etsy shop to help raise funds for me and the channel, please specify this in a note or letter in your parcel. Thank you so much!
Bianca Esposito
PO Box 632177
Highlands Ranch, CO 80163
Thank you for watching!

[@nix_cosplay]

Learn from my past mistakes: adding the back dip to the sleeve is essential to be able to fully move your arms and drive 😅

[@waterbitten]

Good to know!

[@Lillyk96]

Lately I've been very into wearing some kind of safety glasses when sewing! I know I'm going to sew over pins and I'm perfectly happy to deal with the consequences, but I had a broken needle hit my cheek the other day and it really freaked me out! I wear non-prescription glasses quite often so I just got an extra pair with big lenses to be my sewing pair, safe yet fashionable!

[@chrisdrummond8893]

It's amazing how well you situate the camera, the way you demonstrate and explain what you are doing simultaneously. It's like I'm watching a sewing show on the community ideas television station. I read your description below about sending things to you. This Monday I sent a painting I painted, a drawing I drew, and a couple of bucks for you to use to buy material etc. It all fit in a large business envelope ( very little space occupancy). It's all yours, Bianca to keep.😉

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Chris!

[@chrisdrummond8893]

@@TheClosetHistorian My pleasure, Bianca. I hope you like the painting. I just had to paint you as a "Rosie the Riveter" strong, confident, " we did it" lady💪

[@GrowYourGroceries]

Because I have A BUM, that's right. The way you said that made me snort laugh while washing the dishes 🤣

[@GrowYourGroceries]

@Dani O bum is such a fantastic word lol.

[@getaq6508]

This series of videos have really given me the confidence to modify my basic sewing patterns. Thanks for the content ☺️

[@michellecornum5856]

Amen!

[@liesbethverhaeghe8252]

Me to!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! So glad they have been helpful!

[@chazhoosier2478]

Glad you figured out the buttonholer. They're industrial age marvels, aren't they?

[@ailsadixon408]

I've JUST figured out how to get my Griest buttonholer to work with my 58' Pinnock from watching Bianca! They're an actual miracle ☺️

[@lex6819]

I went to the thrift store this week and they had boxes full of sewing patterns for $1.99 a box. I bought 3 boxes, and donated back the patterns I didn't want. I ended up with quite a few Vogue/Simplicity historical knitting patterns -- 2 bustle dresses, a couple of 1860s style dresses, and a handful of 1940s dresses and skirted suits. I'm excited!

[@amarisjoseph]

Using ur process I recreated a lolita dress from a photo u made pattern making fun again for me 😭❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️

[@raraavis7782]

Regarding the shifting needle plate - ask your dad (or mom, if she's the handy one), if they have some kitchen silicone laying around. Most home owners do. Dab a thin film on the (clean) underside of the needle plate and let it cure for 24h. It'll create a non slip surface. Also works on slipping and sliding sandal straps, bag straps and so on. Although you'll want the clear variety for that and not the more usual white or grey. But that stuff is magic. Can also be used instead of fray check on buttonholes or such. Only downside is the long curing time. But it dries clear, and (unlike glue) stays soft and flexible.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Yeah I was thinking there had to be something nonstick I could use! Even if they made rubber or silicone little washers that wouldn't be so bad!

[@raraavis7782]

@@TheClosetHistorian Those exist too - they're called 'sealant rings', I believe. They go into water taps and shower heads and such, to prevent dripping. And then there are silicone baking sheets...I use one to prevent my cutting board from sliding around on the counter. Plenty of options 😉

[@judyharter8265]

Go to your local hardware store and ask about a "shorty" screwdriver. Some stores also carry a screwdriver that's off set with about an inch of shaft and then bent, a longer "handle" middle part, then bent again the other direction. Sort of like a very long letter S with the middle straight. Love this pattern and fabric!

[@harxmoond]

A low profile offset screwdriver works or a mini ratchet style wrench screwdriver are perfect for small places.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Judy!

[@richardharper992]

Fun video and a lovely shirt! I love those old buttonholers; I think they make a much nicer buttonhole than a contemporary computerized machine -- even if a bit clunkier. For tightening down the screw onto the machine bed, it's worked well for me to use one of those red spool felts to put under the tongue of the cover plate and tighten down the screw through the hole in it. It enables a bit more compression to make it stable and for a bonus, it has less of a tendency to mark the paint on your machine.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Richard! I was thinking if they make like rubber washers or something grippy I could get at the hardware store perhaps 🤔

[@richardharper992]

@@TheClosetHistorian You're welcome! I think that a rubber washer is a very good idea if you find that the felt doesn't hold it firmly enough. I'm sure you can find something pretty thin with a small hole that would work a treat.

[@jessieborrell1856]

I love seeing your construction process. It's so interesting to me. I'm in WA and the smoke has been bad here, too! I went on a road trip recently with my sister and daughter to Wyoming to see our grandpa/great-grandpa and it was really bad in Montana and Idaho, too. Not as bad in Wyoming. Luckily some wind came and blew some of our smoke away and it's been a lot more pleasant. It helps that its not super hot, too. It's really awful when it's 80 plus degrees out and smokey but you don't want to roast in your house so windows need to be opened because most houses here have no AC. Ugh. I'm ready for Fall. By the way, I used your guide for making a bodice block from measurements (Which you and I happen to be very, very close in measurements so that was super helpful LOL) and made a block. Pretty much managed to nail the fit on the first mock-up, which was shocking haha I havent patterned anything yet and made anything. I still need to do a skirt block and I went out of town so I kinda put aside all my sewing projects

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! And most excellent on the block front!! ✨

[@naritariko9390]

I only write occasionally but I appreciate very video of yours. 😘 Sometimes I rewatch your videos just to hear your voice - so nice 😊 I would love to listen to your book read by you. .... just one of my thoughts at almost 6am 😴

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Nari! ❤

[@sewfarfromtheeveryday7299]

As a Brit, I can attest to the fact we say "Bob's your uncle" here. Not sure if it is a British phrase, but I've definitely heard it a fair bit since I was tiny. Mainly from my uncle, Bob (because that's just his sense of humour!).

[@TheClosetHistorian]

😂 Good for him leaning into it ha!

[@shuvrarahman2816]

I can not thank you enough for all your teachings those taught me a new dimension of sewing. You are truly a Diva in this field. May God bless you with good health long life and happiness.❣

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Shuvra!

[@PilatesByLisa]

ah-ma-zing video!!!! This is exactly what I've been looking for, I am at the point in my sewing journey where I am self drafting more and more, and I love to see what others create from their blocks. Most videos out there are just a how-to-create-a-block which is great, but these are the perfect videos for going that extra mile and giving me something to admire! Thanks for all your hard work! x

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Lisa!

[@EdenYell]

I needed this video 5 days ago XD apparently I sewed the collar "correctly, just sloppy"

[@TheClosetHistorian]

😂 I can understand that, they are fiddly and kinda annoying!

[@ReinaElizondo]

Lovely! That fabric is so cute! I love the gathers into the hole and the sleeves! Thanks for showing more of the button holer, too! For some reason plackets intimidate me lol.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! Plackets intimidate me too 😅

[@mohmeegaik6686]

The closethistorian is the most detailed tutor in sewing. Thank you so much.

[@Luna-mi1dd]

While I know your first love is writing, I am so glad making these videos is your job now. I hope you are still writing. I would by your book just for curiosity. Thank you again for the tutorial.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Luna! There has been precious little writing time over here, and I am indeed starting to go a bit bonkers 😅

[@janepercival-stewart8129]

Loved seeing this. Looked lovely on you. Please can you show us how to do a cowl neck with the kimono sleeve block.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Jane!

[@sheelfjohnson]

That's beautiful - I love it with the Katharine Hepburn-ish pants ✔

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@sherrysenf-mcginn7693]

Pretty fabric. You always make it look so easy. I love how you explain how to create and make your clothing blocks. You make it simple, easy to understand and fun.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Sherry!

[@tieger13]

I only started sewing about a month and a half ago, and I'm in love not only with your content, but also the way you explain things. It makes so much sense to me, and I realise everyone takes up information differently, but your explanations just click. Thank you so much, can't wait to explore your whole youtube catalogue.

[@graceanne596]

PSA if anyone wants a fitted blouse/shirt all you need to do is keep the waist dart of your bodice (front and back) and draw a second dart underneath the og dart. You will end up with a diamond 🔷️ shape. There's a name for this kind of dart, but I don't remember it. You can sew the whole thing in one go. I think it looks nicest when they're treated as two separate darts and sewn separately. That way you can still taper off and tie the threads by hand for no puckering.

[@catpawrosales4265]

Wowser, that button holer appendage is MAGIC!! (and I love the fabric too).

[@catinthehat1486]

Loved that demo on adding plackets. I make a lot of shirts for my partner and l dislike the modern one piece approach, so l appreciate this lesson even though copied from someone else. 🤗

[@andreabendrups4768]

Hi from Australia. Thank you for a great paced video. You are a terrific teacher - enough detail, tips interwoven in the narrative. Congratulations and thanks again. I'll become a regular!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Andrea!

[@SewTexas]

I absolutely love the fabric you used for the blouse. I learned in 7th grade home economic sewing, a very strict teacher never never to sew over pin and I always though but why. But my muscle memory was ingrained into me not to sew over pins. Well one day I was in a hurry and decided I was going to do it my way--and do you know what happened to my left middle finger? Yep, you guessed in I stabbed one of the poor innocent pins and broke the needle--not that big of a deal, but somehow in the process my finger got in the way and caught the needle and it broke in 3-4 pieces that landed deep into my finger! Go ahead and ask me if it hurt, hubby was outside and heard me yell!. (Good thing he is a gentle doctor, )he helped, he was able to get all the needle out of my finger. He also put me on antibiotics because bad infections occur when things like needles hit the bone in your body! So, I am back to not sewing over needles. Can I say I cringe every time I see you sewing over the needles--please be careful. Your demo are amazing.

[@flyingpanda3997]

Bianca, once again you have shown me something new. I wondered if that buttonhole attachment on your machine existed for my Juki industrial straight sewing machine............and It does and I am absolutely buying one!

[@panacheluxury4262]

If I had several needles break because of the buttonholer I would wear safety goggles too, lol. Great job!

[@girlwhofelltoearth]

Excited for this! 😁

[@jcortese3300]

Thank you so much for demystifying this. Wonderful video, extremely easy to understand!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you J!

[@emilysmith2784]

Amazing. Your tutorials are just so helpful. So impressed that you had no puckering in the chest area. I really need to make a custom shirt now.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Emily!

[@pamackenzie]

I love sewing plackets, it's so satisfying.

[@sandihj]

I’m obsessed with that fabric!

[@juadonna]

Thank you, Bianca, for your very clear explanation on this procedure! You are, by far, my favorite sewing tutor! Your reveal is fantastic! Your styling with the waist tied reminds me of the Hollywood stars and their 'Casual Ranchwear' looks. The fabric is so subtle, and your choice of using the reverse as accents is inspired. I laughed out loud at "and Fannie's your aunt", as I had an Aunt Fannie (Frances)! Stay safe, my dear, and I hope your adventure exceeds your expectations!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Juadonna! ❤

[@ladyjusticesusan]

I love how you did something out of your usual area. Well done with a beautiful outcome. Bravo for going out of your box. Sure came out nice.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Susan!

[@fabioferreiragomes]

INCRÍVEL.ESPETACULAR.MARAVILHOSA

[@manjasorensen5472]

I really like those sleeves! 😍

[@amymasreliez8957]

I agree, I always want to support independent artisans and smaller fabric businesses. This is a fabulous video and so helpful with the visuals.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Amy!

[@anniehosking2408]

I love that fabric!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thanks Annie!

[@mjdc2533]

So useful. Thanks for making this content available.

[@ilovezombies4eve]

I don't know why but this gives me firefly vibes. Lovely video thank you for drafting in such detail. It really helps me out!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Tiffany! Firefly is definitely one of my favorite "westerns" 😉

[@marieeaton-smith5168]

Watching this again, really good. 'Bob's your uncle' is a saying here in the UK and in Ireland - I'm from Ireland, I have not heard of 'Fanny's your aunt' though, but hey, it is a small world, with millions of sayings! Those cuff plackets are a pain, but so satisfying when you get them right, the instructions were double Dutch to me at first

[@bellepoupee61]

Beautiful work! Thank you! Christine

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@AntelJM]

Thank you yet again for the most wonderful drafting lesson - Not a wasted minute, it went like a flash. I’ve had a block for years but this answered many questions for me and the shirt is stunning. Xx

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@karenhansen-smith1848]

That's a really flattering look. I really enjoy your talk-throughs!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Karen!

[@leanneedwards3595]

Hi from BC, Canada! Thank you for these pattern modification videos! You have become my pattern drafting hero! And sorry for the smoke last summer. I live in the area where one of the largest fires was burning and sending smoke your way. We hope to do better this year! (Like it's within our control, but in the truly Canadian way - so sorry! :)

[@thedoctor755]

I have that buttonholer! :) I have a Singer 401 (circa 1960) that's my main machine, and I used to do all buttonholes with that device. But my mum had to go and buy me a modern Brother with touch-screen, and it does buttonholes so much easier. I should roll out the Singer contraption again though... it is clunky and awesome.

[@inanna..]

all your videos recently are SO relevant to me right now! very serendipitous, thank you for all the great instruction :)

[@annesullivan1171]

Love this shirt 💗

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Anne!

[@dlsgl407]

Intrigued by the upcoming plans you have!

[@lindagroskopf3749]

Love the pattern - you've inspired me.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Linda!

[@bohemiansusan2897]

As usual, was a lot of fun watching this one. I especially like the Roman collar. Reminds me a bit of the 60's when they were all the rage in mens' shirts. I'd love it for winter layering with a card gain or a knit or woven vest. I wouldn't mind seeking you do a video of a blouse with waist darts in order to compare with how I do mine.

[@lizmerritt8682]

Another very informative video. Thank you.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Liz!

[@annecain5762]

I really appreciate how clear you are and how easy to follow what you were doing. Thank you.

[@jeandobbie3146]

Fabulous. Thank you for your help.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Jean!

[@stacisathre5095]

I have the same kind of vintage buttonholer bequeathed to me from my grandmother. I don't have a plate to cover the feed dogs, instead I cut a small square hole out of the center of a playing card and taped it down. Works great! Not the most pro looking setup, but it might save you a few needles and some frustration?

[@ci2854]

Wow..you are amazing ..love the looks you make..

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@Hiker_who_Sews]

Love your channel, and am looking forward to what ever you have in mind for fall.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Dannie!

[@rachelamdecker09]

oh yeah the sleeves are super cute on this!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Rachel!

[@adamreynolds9816]

That suitcase in the final reveal literally got me excited!

[@NYetton]

On the buttonholer plate: try a spring washer between the plate and the bolt. That may help you exert more pressure. You could do a rubber washer between the plate and the machine stage too, which could help prevent movement.

[@ZeldaSews]

I did enjoy watching you put this shirt together.

[@hjordis7630]

I'm so glad I found you. Even though I'm stuck in the edwardian era I have learned so much! Thank you. It would be so cool to see your take on an edwardian collar or type of blouse. Your awesome!!!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@sonjalockhorst2322]

Verry nice fabric!

[@judimoss3250]

Such an enjoyable hour or so in your sewing room. Thanks for sharing x

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Judi!

[@catlovernat]

Watching the cuff together at the end felt like ✨ magic ✨

[@christinemartin9449]

Hi from England. Another great video, thank you so much for the help and inspiration.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Christine! Hello right back to England!!

[@suzettebrooks9787]

I am happy I found hour channel. Some things were a bit fuzzy for me when making a shirt and you have make it a lot clearer. I just need to practice. Thank you and much appreciated.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Suzette!

[@salc348]

Beautiful ❤️

[@deidrabenson361]

Thanks sooo much for sharing!!❤️

[@swingularity1119]

Tower/house plackets always seem to melt my mind but this version seemed to make a little more sense, so thanks for that!! I'm enjoying seeing all of the variety in your content lately and I'm excited to possibly see some trouser content :)

[@deidrabenson361]

Thanks sooo much for sharing your knowledge! I always learn so much from you, love the shirt!!❤️❤️❤️

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Deidra!

[@aliceadler4569]

Love the blouse fabric & pattern!!! Looks great on you!!! Thanks for sharing!!! ♥️♥️♥️💐💐💐

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Alice!

[@ellahopkinson]

I love how you explain things, makes perfect sense to me, I'd love to see a corset or stays making video from you- they can get complicated. Beautiful shirt 😊

[@MsDeepAndDark]

I thought there was one in the Cicada gown series, but nope.

[@ellahopkinson]

@@MsDeepAndDark yes, other undergarments, but I recall her saying she made the corset a long time ago

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Ella! Perhaps next year, I need a new corset but it's so much work ha 😅

[@ellahopkinson]

@@TheClosetHistorian that is exactly why I have yet to make one 😅

[@niccyknickers]

oooo i really like the shapes in this shirt! thanks again for such an amazing demonstration :D

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@sammysparklesburlesque6358]

A blouse is on my to do list and this came at the perfect time! You’re the best thank you 🙏🏼 xxx

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Sammy!

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

I totally hear you about knitting. I can do a rectangle, but I can't purl at all and I can't count while I do things... I crochet though, but generally nothing that ever needs to be counted after the first line!! Thanks for showing this, some really cute ideas are now forming in my little brain, since I am far more likely to wear a shirt than a dress... once I fix the armholes on my first attempt at a bodice block, whose mockup is currently in the Bad Clothing Corner contemplating what it's done.

[@GrowYourGroceries]

I only recently discovered your channel and I have been BINGING big Time!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@ReneePowell]

Finding or drafting a proper shirt pattern that I could wear tied. Has been high on my list. This video is going to be incredibly helpful!

[@jackalbis3167]

Your chanel Is exaclty what I was looking for thanks a lot, I'm now able to try my first fitted shirt ❤️

[@JadeStrawberry]

I love the fabric you chose for your shirt. It looks beautiful on you.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Jade!

[@Iarasilv]

Amazing content Bianca! I needed help with my blouse placket and you delivered. I loved the style of the shirt and the fabric pattern.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Iara!

[@bigc8127]

This tutorial was awesome

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@jesabeltwin5051]

That funny little slit in the sleeve is called a half placket. Often put in the front of a top/shirt that only opens say 3 or 4 buttons down the front.

[@jolineantheajammer]

Just in time! I have been wanting to do a button up blouse for an autumn suit set I am finishing. Love your instructions!! Thank you!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Joline!

[@adamreynolds9816]

Loving this video. I will need to rewatch this. Slightly distracted by the mysterious adventure….

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Adam! Adventure awaits, very soon!

[@TheDreadedBeauty]

I'm really enjoying these videos! Thanks for sharing your sewing experience with us. Your tips are so simple and useful, not to mention creative!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@jori7398]

Such a gorgeous fit! This is a perfect blouse.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Jori!

[@jori7398]

@@TheClosetHistorian thank you for teaching how to make!

[@liveeatsew]

Awesome shirt. I need to sort out my bodice block and go for it.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Sonja!

[@pauln2661]

Per the button hole attachment screw. The screw is a hard steel and the plate is a hard metal too. This means that these don't have a grip on one another. To prevent loosening (and having to torque down so hard) try a brass washer. The brass is soft and will distort, creating more friction. You should be able to find them at any hardware store. If all the washer you find are too thick, ask for brass shim. A brass shim can be cut easily with shears and a whole punched through. Brass shim comes as fine as 0.005 inch.

[@kathrynmccarthy]

Really enjoyed seeing this shirt come together! I've rarely thought about making my own dress shirts but after this I just might give it a try!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thanks Kathryn!

[@raquelseydewitz203]

Great tutorial

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Raquel!

[@jenniferrich5292]

When I was still in high school my mom and I sewed on an already old Wizard, and we had just that same buttonhole attachment! Thanks for the memories🥰 Yep, you had to sew about 3 buttonholes on top of each other to get one nice one. Much better than doing them by hand though! And thank you so much for showing us this shirt. I prefer boxier styles, and it’s lovely to see what happens when you ignore the waist darts.

[@evaaltman5774]

I'm so excited for this mystery event :) wishing you safety and health in the meantime !!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Eva!

[@pearlkoning1275]

I love yourstyle, yourvoice, and yourskill!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@kaytiej8311]

This is so good. Thorough and yet simple. Wonderful as always. P.S. Thank you note received. Kayzl.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! ❤❤

[@lynnniblock8355]

Your soooo inspiring Bianca with everything you make on your vlogs that you share with us all, your so entertaining to watch too. I wish I could do pattern blocking too, but I have to still use the shop bought conventional patterns. Keep up the good work that you do ✂️🧵😊💕

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Lynn!