How to Make This 1941 Style // Midriff Pattern Drafting Demo

Many designs from the 1930's, 1940's, and into the 1950's make use of this fitted midriff and empire waistline style. It's also a style you've never exactly seen me tackle before! So today I'm showing you how to modify the standard darted bodice block into one of these raised waist midriff focused styles. This one also has a silly little zipper and cute puffed sleeves, but because it's me...I didn't bother to do the pocket! I'm just not a pocket gal either...
The inspiration dress from Montgomery Wards Spring Summer 1941: / 460563499400653032
Modern Pattern Design by Harriet Pepin: sewingforlife.files.wordpress...
Pin for how to draft the sleeve with darts: / 460563499401096156
My video on drafting sleeve patterns from scratch: • Drafting a Basic Sleev...
How to draft the A-line skirt: • How to Make an A-Line ...
How to draft a circle skirt: • Making A Circle Skirt ...
Music and Sound Effects from Epidemic Sound.
Need to make a block pattern? There are many options, and I talk about several in this playlist! : • Making a Bodice Block ...
Where I get my pattern drafting paper: atlaslevy.com/Paper_c_13.html (not sponsored)
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Want to help me continue making more videos? Listen to me ramble on in a monthly podcast? Watch an additional project video each month? Peruse my Patreon here: / theclosethistorian
Blog: theclosethistorian.blogspot.com/
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But wait there's more! A PO BOX finally wahoo!
First, a disclaimer: So many of you have kindly offered to send me things, including vintage items you may have inherited, and I am so honored you would think of me and of course I do adore vintage treasures, however, unfortunately I only have so much storage space currently! So there is a chance that if something just wont work for me, or doesn't fit me etc, that I may not be able to keep all of your lovely things. Please only send things if you are okay with the possibility that I may donate items I just cannot keep. If you would prefer I put things that I can't keep into the TCH Etsy shop to help raise funds for me and the channel, please specify this in a note or letter in your parcel. Thank you so much!
Bianca Esposito
PO Box 632177
Highlands Ranch, CO 80163
Thank you for watching!

[@terra448]

You're like the Bob Ross of pattern drafting. "Now lets move this happy little dart over here." I love it.

[@kfries1282]

I've thought the exact same thing. Watching this channel is like listening to Bob Ross in all the best ways

[@seattlegirl2077]

She is! You nailed it.

[@ReinaElizondo]

😁

[@jenniferjohnston4403]

You’re spot on. She’s therapeutic to listen to.

[@rhonddalesley]

I so agree, I put B on when I get into bed every night and within 15 minutes I’m nodding off which is awesome for my insomnia and also because I get to spin the videos out for longer!

[@irisdawnmiranda7808]

I don't usually comment but I really want to extend my gratitude to you. Thank you so much for these videos! As a newbie to sewing, I've always thought I need to buy patterns for each design I like, and if the design isn't available in a pattern, I'd just look at them in sadness. I also found pattern drafting quite intimidating and, that I thought I need to enroll in a fashion design school just to learn the basics. Oh boy! I was wrong! Of all the sewing KZbinrs that I have seen, you definitely make pattern drafting and sewing quite easy to understand and to do. I tend to buy a lot of clothes too, and, most of the time, they don't fit right. Because of your videos, I've learned to troubleshoot, modify and analyze designs: darts, fitting and all. Now, it's been a couple of years since I last bought dresses, shirts and skirts. Every time I see an article with a design I really like, I just analyze the design, and reconstruct possible pattern in my head. That's just it! No urges to buy that article. I am slowly shifting my wardrobe from fast fashion to my own handmade clothes. I am so happy that I came across your channel by accident, and eventually got some skills developed. Again, thank you very much! More power to you, your family and your channel!

[@odettemichel3563]

Congrats ! 💪

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you so much! I'm glad you are having a good time on your sewing journey 🧵✨

[@adahusten2188]

"You want me when I have perfected something, right? I'm supposed to be teaching here, not learning. It's a little of both." It's actually really useful to see other people puzzle through things. You are still teaching even when you are puzzling. Also, is anything ever really perfected? I dunno, the way it came off was that you think we only want to watch your videos if they/you are perfect. And that is simply not the case. So bold, underline, highlight: "It's a little of both." And thank you for your videos.

[@raraavis7782]

Yeah, I feel the same. I mean, I watch half for the information and half for the entertainment factor (as do most, I think) and it's fascinating seeing someone else's approach to puzzling things out. I actually find it more interesting (and relatable) , if things don't go perfectly smoothly all the time.

[@dianavoermans]

I can only agree to you both!

[@frazzledhaloz3184]

Well said!

[@annelewis7531]

@@raraavis7782 I was thinking the same.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Ada! I should perhaps give myself a little more permission to experiment 😅

[@MissIV]

OMG I’m glad it’s not just me, yes the smell of calico when ironing…. Equals comfort! And the midriff finishing…. Genius!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Wendy!

[@ruthycranford8742]

I'm so thrilled to see a fellow crayola sewist! They wash fully out, with just water. So perfect.

[@moirallison]

This shape looks absolutely AMAZING on you. It’s also one of my favorite shapes but so hard to find a pattern of it. I’m so so glad you made this one! Mystery uncovered! Thank you

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@mohmeegaik6686]

You are the best teacher on showing manipulation of pattern. Thank you for your efforts to share your bountiful knowledge.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Mohmee!

[@waterbitten]

I come for pattern drafting. The pattern drafting is great, but I stay! For the random ruminations, like "is porcelain recyclable" that's the golden nuggets that make you relatable and endearing.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Ha! 😅 Thank you!

[@leathalleeks]

Sewing is like piracy is something to live by, for sure! Absolutely love it 💕

[@KleinesMaunz]

Oh this looks very gorgeous and flattering on you. You should reconsider liking that style on you ;) Hope your next weeks will be better!

[@sandiemable]

I agree she looks amazing!

[@JoUkelelea]

I totally agree! When you showed us the muslin on you, first thing I thought was "wow!". We all love different styles on ourselves, though, so I totally understand the fact that you may not like this one on you for different reasons. Just wanted to let you know though - you look amazing, not at all "top heavy" or anything like that ☺️ And thank you so much for this video, I've learned so much from you on your channel!

[@patchincurtis5439]

Ditto, this is a wonderful style for you.

[@carolinebrown539]

I really agree-the style is still very flattering on you. My daughter is the same size as you & she loved it on you.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@katelafontaine7119]

Watching you figure out drafting and fit on the fly is incredibly helpful. I like knowing why things are done the way they are as well as the how; it makes troubleshooting so much faster and a lot less frustrating. I think at least 80% of my sewing issues have been figured out by finding one of your videos and using it as a visual reference. I cannot state how much I appreciate it!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Kate!

[@spazaliciousbim]

“Choosing strange moments to be thorough” 😹😹😹 brilliant

[@hanananah]

Can't remember what I had for breakfast yesterday but I immediately grasp a reference to a movie from 2003. Sounds about right 😂.

[@glennanderson9340]

I've got big bosoms like you and I think this bodice design looks amazing. Definitely on my sew list for spring!

[@lizcademy4809]

Agreed ... I'd move the upper midriff seam a touch further down, so it's not cutting across the breasts, but otherwise, it looks good. Every video I watch is pushing me closer and closer to making a block for myself ... and I have a ton of muslin!

[@Diniecita]

@@lizcademy4809 I was thinking I need to make a block for myself too. I have a lot of vintage patterns I would love to make but they are all too small. I think a block would help me do it more like this (for more simple designs for now though.)

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@odettemichel3563]

Thank you so much Bianca ! I've been wanting to make a bodice like this for ages ! I think it looks super flattering. I made my bodice block last summer thanks to your tutorials. Can't wait to modify it ! 😊

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Odette!

[@gemmasremchevich6719]

That bodice is very flattering on you Bianca. Hope your kitty is well soon too. 🌺🌼🌸💕

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Gemma!

[@emilycummings3125]

Thank you so much. I'm in my first year of fashion design in New Zealand and hearing you talk through order of operations is very helpful.

[@odettemichel3563]

so cool 👌

[@Charliefarley170287]

Gorgeous dress! I hope your leaking cat gets better soon. Cats are wonderful little beings and it’s stressful when they’re poorly.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@kristynaplihalova]

I love your commentary. The way you slip form instructions to life rant is as elegant as your clothes. You definitely are amongst those people I would like to go for a glass of wine with in real life. Good luck with your cat.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Kristýna!

[@jessicaw8941]

For someone whose waist is very high where my bodice block is essentially empire waisted anyway, I'm sitting here like that popcorn gif nodding along like I'm an expert. This is something I'll likely make at some point.

[@nerdaccount]

That looked SOOOOO complicated! Thanks for walking us through it! You're the best!

[@lindak8664]

Being an Aussie…. It took me years to work out muslin is what we call calico. Muslin is a super thin cheesecloth-ish fabric. What dressmaking refers to as ‘A Muslin’ is still the same thing though. I love that bodice!

[@FakeGreenDress]

You must be psychic! I'm currently in the middle of drafting a bodice with a raised neckline and three tucks under the bust for a Halloween costume. This is amazingly helpful, thank you!

[@prof.mommyarty]

Oh my, it's such a treat watching you make and manipulate a pattern! The style suits your hour glass figure perfectly, much better than the wafer thin shapeless lady in the photo! 'I made it up and it worked ' lol. I'm struggling to sew a presentable dart even following your method. Actually watching you learning is really helpful! Your machine is beautiful 😍. Tfs 💖

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@sewcialanxietea1021]

Ok I've been watching your videos for SO LONG and just realized that this whole time I wasn't subscribed, you just very consistently popped up in my suggestions and I didn't even realize.

[@juadonna]

LOL " I only have a few {friends}. I don't get out much. " ( Snort. Who does?) " They look kinda like hot-air balloons. " (They reminded me of the old towering chefs' toques.) BTW, I love the sleeves, also! Thanks for showing us how to get a start on yet another modification of our basic blocks! See you next week!

[@MariaRosseau]

Sewing over pins, not doing stay stitching, YOU LIVE LIFE ON THE EDGE! Love this blouse/top/bodice!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

I can be dangerous, but only in the sewing room 😎 Thank you!

[@amysullivan2414]

I love the way you did the midriff piece in front. It’s very sharp and I would think the “lining” would make that section more stable and less likely to wrinkle when worn.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thanks Amy!

[@amandacoffey6170]

Endless scrolling thru KZbin, looking for something to watch. I want something in particular, but can’t actually name what I want to watch. *Sees a new video from TCH && realizes this is exactly what I didn’t know I was looking for*

[@TheClosetHistorian]

I'm glad I could help ❤

[@bloodymary77]

Thank you for this video! I always wanted a dress with this kind of bodice but didn't know where to start making it.

[@Ninjozata]

Loving the more intermediate/advanced tutorials!! I feel like I’ve got the basics down, but at the same time I’m not vibing with the more “advanced” stuff like bamboo sleeves/draped designs a la pattern magic and that ilk.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Yeah pattern magic stuff can get a bit intense and less wearable sometimes 😅 Very cool, but not always the most practical!

[@rachelgugler3905]

Love this bodice, maybe sans puff sleeves for myself. It is one of my favorite styles!

[@geriattrique7141]

How did I miss this video when it first aired?!! It actually answers a lot of questions I had!

[@wowzieee]

The dress is delightful. I enjoy watching the vintage machine in action as well. I love vintage designs. Keep inspiring.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@NYetton]

I know you prefer not to emphasize your bust, but that top really does look good on you.

[@jweg4051]

My absolute favorite video just for the pumpkins line ❤️❤️

[@Secondwindoregon]

I love that bodice! It’s a shame you don’t like it because I think it looks cute on you.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Kim!

[@aliceadler4569]

I think this style looks very nice on you!!! Hope your kitty is doing better. I hate when our pets cannot actually tell us what’s wrong!!! Wishing you a better next week!!! ♥️♥️♥️💐💐💐🦋🦋🦋

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Alice!

[@tinajohnston8139]

I had a secret ambition to do sleeves with darts in them, but I hadn't gotten the courage or time to try them out yet, so thank you for the demonstration! I'm planning to use them on a little summer suit jacket, a concept that I also learned from you in the first video of yours that the algorithm recommended to me.

[@onesma1729]

I have to agree with everyone who said this style looks fabulous on you!!! We like it when you learn as we learn. I, personally, love knowing that you may not know everything but are still willing to figure it out! To me it shows you care about what you do. Keep up the great work! 🥰🥰

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Onesma!

[@annguglielmino8989]

I love the smell of ironed cotton! I am kinda a laundry gal anyway and never understood why people dislike ironing. The sound and the smell of ironing are all very cozy to me and my brain appreciates a crisp, ironed edge.

[@fievollies8812]

Thank you for making this style. I love it but because I'm smaller in the chest area and most repro dresses in this style always tend to be to big around the chest for me. Now I feel confident to make my own which will finally fit me better. I love your technique for the sharp corner on the midriff part. Not only does it give that beautiful corner I also think it will give a little more support around the tummy area. I might use the same technique for the back midriff as well on thinner fabrics just because I like the feel of it. I also use bobbins I don't tend to use in the near future for my muslins. Every penny counts in sewing 😊

[@kaytiej8311]

Wow, this is Next Level. But still makes the process easy to understand by going step by step. I think journeying with you into new places makes the learning process real and relatable. Thanks Bianca. And... hoping the fun saga of the leaky cat has come to a chapter's end.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Kaytie!

[@elayjayudny9741]

Looks gorgeous on your fabulous figure, Bianca. If you’ve got it, flaunt it - while you’re young 🥰

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@elyriahayashi7996]

Great video, I love this style! And no - mugs are not recyclable. Most things can be recycled, but for mugs and other porcelain/pottery, the only option is landfill (not counting reuse).

[@neepsnorpington]

If you garden, smashed-up mug makes for good drainage for your pots.

[@elyriahayashi7996]

@@neepsnorpington Absolutely! But that's reuse, not recycling.

[@sarahe.1930]

I am right now binging your videos (and procrastinating doing my stuff... Oops) and you blessed me with yet another video?? Thank you!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you for watching Sarah! ❤

[@melindapates1611]

I liked so much this video, from the start of pattern making and to the end of sewing this vintage dress. It was nicely sewn, it fitted perfectly. you're a skilled pattern designer and a dressmaker.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Melinda!

[@EmilyBHelms]

I’ve thought for awhile now those midriff shaped waists looked cute, but like you, wasn’t sure how good they’d look on the fuller bust, but yours looks nicely fitted and not overemphasizing; something for me to consider in future. And the puffed sleeves look cute (and most of the time I don’t like the overemphasized shoulders of those decades).

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Emily!

[@apollonianeumer3094]

As someone who needs an SBA instead of an FBA I'm really grateful you showed this style!

[@laurensternenberg7635]

Thank you! I'm currently making a little handbag for a friend for Christmas. I have you channel playing while I sew. I made the lining first as kind of a mockup. Something wasn't right. Then I heard you say "clip your curves!" Ahh. Fixed it. Thanks.

[@vilma.design]

Ooh you're videos are just such educational and inspirational excellence, thank you Bianca! 🙏🏻 I have done a few self drafted dresses now thanks to you and don't see myself going back to the old, because the possibilities are endless manipulating blocks instead of finding and adjusting store bought patterns. 🌻 Oh and can't wait for the spooky season content coming up, I bet you have some awesome stuff planned. 👻🖤

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! ❤🎃 Spooky season should indeed be full of surprises I hope!

[@Zeppylvr]

This top is fantastic! I absolutely love the collar tipped up the neck it looks amazing and flatters your figure….its a keeper….love to see it made in your favorite fabric.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Margo!

[@beckeyeibert8637]

Thanks for stepping out of your comfort zone and showing us how to use the knowledge you have given us in other ways.

[@johannaf2998]

I love the crayola washable markers. Occasionally they do not wash out the first time, but do after the second wash. I often test it out when I prewash fabric to ensure it washes out.

[@neocat81]

i prefer the term educated guess. you have a wonderful, vast knowledge of clothing construction and you are using that to solve the problem. 😁😁😁 i also like orderly chaos

[@lynetteshorten6043]

Absolutely beautiful on you I LOVE the 30’s and 40’s

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Lynette!

[@JanineWende]

Thanks so much! I wanted to make something like this for a while, mostly to avoid the humongous waist darts that can result from full bust adjustments. I had no idea how to figure out that pleat situation in the front until now.

[@wataru357]

it's like you read my mind. I wanted to make something like this and lo- and behold you have put out a demo!!! So excited to try this out!

[@bookmouse2719]

Oh it came out so cute! You should make the whole dress, gorgeous.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@Bolshevik_muppet]

I love this! I really appreciate all of your pattern drafting videos, they make it so approachable.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Jennifer!

[@seattlegirl2077]

You go through the process in your brain before starting? Now I know what I've been forgetting to do all these years!

[@Hiker_who_Sews]

I love seeing the process.

[@srnc]

This is gorgeous! Can’t wait to try it!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Serena!

[@Eloraurora]

This is one of my favorite styles. I always had a hard time searching for it because sellers didn't seem to use any common description. The closest was "basque waist," but most of the people using that term were selling wedding dresses.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

I don't exactly know what it's called either 🤔

[@chloeuhoh]

Love this style, thanks for drafting it ☺️

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thanks Chloe!

[@darcie8560]

I always wondered how you would do this design and oh my gosh I can’t believe it was so easy.

[@Ryanw131]

I think this looks fantastic on you! Great thorough video as always too.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@coffemuse]

The sleeves look like little chef's hats! This whole video is, as always, brilliant. Thank you again.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@agcons]

Fall Mode is just fine with me; I'm getting tired of the heat and humidity. My only regret is that where I live Fall lasts only about six weeks, and I wish it were longer. The technician in me is thoroughly enjoying your drafting videos and I'm looking forward to more of them. Also, thank you for the link to Harriet Pepin's book, because I must own all the books.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! Fall should be longer everywhere 🎃

[@chareseshinabery]

This tutorial was super helpful! Thank you B 💖

[@karinkiltz5626]

Harriet Pippin is AWESOME!!

[@sarahlongshore2605]

Hope it gets better for you!! This style looks amazing on you!! But then everything you make looks good on you!!! I like that you were learning along with us this time. Gives us a look at how you figure things out!!!!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Sarah!

[@michelleneumann2413]

I LOVE the blouse you are wearing in the intro and outro.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Michelle!

[@michelleneumann2413]

@@TheClosetHistorian You are most welcome. Was it a thrift or did you make it?

[@TheClosetHistorian]

@@michelleneumann2413 I made it and there is even a video...but it was my first sewing video so I am a bit of a disaster in it 😂 kzbin.info/www/bejne/iICwoqNnn5ijn6M

[@michelleneumann2413]

@@TheClosetHistorian I'm going to watch it right now! I bet you are fabulous!!

[@dionicia12]

Thank you for explaining the sleeve adjustment. I look forward to your video on puff sleeves.

[@belledobson2007]

Love the waist, not so keen on the sleeves. I think that style looks really good on you

[@katperez7884]

Really enjoyed this video. Thank you for sharing.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Kat!

[@nevem5010]

I do love this style, and am sad that it doesn't work for me (thanks, flared ribcage), so it was great to see how it goes together ❤️. Thank you!

[@caoimhenimhuireadhaigh1303]

The sleeves almost looked like chef's hats when you were trying to stand them up by themselves! 😂😂

[@MsEJMcLaren]

Looks fantastic!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@Notlost-lj9qt]

What a lovely style on you! I love the unusual sleeves.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@1775LostOne]

Dang, I don't know anything about drafting patterns or sewing but I loved your creative process!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Rachael!

[@emmetarot2966]

Already looking forward to the puff sleeve video!

[@geriattrique7141]

I love this blouse / dress top!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thanks Geri!

[@nancylaberge6196]

I watch many sewing videos, learning something from them all. Hands down, I've learned the most from yours. Sincerely thanking you for sharing your knowledge. Like an excellent teacher, you make a difference.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Nancy!

[@believeinfaeries8713]

Thank you for doing this! I can't wait to try it!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Flynn!

[@rougecardinal]

Very generous! I was started design pattern in October and watch your precious video each day! Thank you!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Johanne!

[@rougecardinal]

@@TheClosetHistorian the little triangle on the 1920 dress, we call that « modestie » in French!

[@neocat81]

turned out sooo cute!!! love it!!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@emmastromgard9415]

As allways, I learned so much new things. You are incredible.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Emma!

[@kelley4086]

The Crayola Ultra Clean washable markers wash out super well. I love this video. It gave me more ideas for this type of bodice which is one of my favorite.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Kelley!

[@judynathan7572]

Thank you for doing this style, even if it is not your jam. I love it!

[@nardagates6143]

I love these videos you are putting out I am learning so much!!!!!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@jillstedtenfeldt6799]

Absolutely fabulous!!! So flattering and now definitely my favourite style of bodice.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Jill!

[@deserignac]

Absolutely gorgeous the top and the model 😌💕👌

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@ericajacobs6858]

Ooh I would love a pattern book recommendation video!💕

[@olliejones3302]

I love those sleeves! I hope next week is less stressful/full for you

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thanks Ollie!

[@getaq6508]

Great video as usual and this style looks great on you☺️

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@alexiscarlton1355]

Lovely to listen to you talk while I do my homework

[@anniehosking2408]

I really like the shape of the bodice on you! For myself I would probably have a straight across midriff section rather than peaked. I guess it would be historically inaccurate to have your extended shoulder cap sleeve that you have used before on this style but I think it would look good. Personally I probably wouldn't do a midriff section on the back. Just use the basic block pattern with necessary modifications for the neck line.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

I think they did this style with all-in-one sleeves too, so perfectly accurate to give it a go!

[@JessicaFleur01]

That looks lovely on you. Thank you, This made a lot of sense and I will try it out.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@VictoriaSkye]

Omg this is such perfect timing! I'm making a dress with this exact midriff/tuck setup and this is very helpful