Fashions from 1949 // CATALOGING (Magazines)

Today were browsing two pattern design magazines from 1949, one from Butterick and another from Vogue!
Scanned pages here: / pattern-magazines-from...
Music and Sound Effects from Epidemic Sound.
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Need to make a block pattern? There are many options, and I talk about several in this playlist! : • Making a Bodice Block ...
Where I get my pattern drafting paper: atlaslevy.3dca... (not sponsored)
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But wait there's more! A PO BOX finally wahoo!
First, a disclaimer: So many of you have kindly offered to send me things, including vintage items you may have inherited, and I am so honored you would think of me and of course I do adore vintage treasures, however, unfortunately I only have so much storage space currently! So there is a chance that if something just wont work for me, or doesn't fit me etc, that I may not be able to keep all of your lovely things. Please only send things if you are okay with the possibility that I may donate items I just cannot keep. If you would prefer I put things that I can't keep into the TCH Etsy shop to help raise funds for me and the channel, please specify this in a note or letter in your parcel. Thank you so much!
Bianca Esposito
PO Box 632177
Highlands Ranch, CO 80163
Thank you for watching!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Scanned pages on pinterest are live! Sorry I forgot to "un-secret" the board 😅

[@skirtedgalleons]

Love to listen to you going through catalogs. Would love to see a demo of the double princess seam drafting!

[@kckazcoll1]

love looking at these old catalogues/magazines with you. I learn so much about style lines and dart manipulation etc. Bianca, have you ever made a video about drafting a gored skirt? PS. I'm interested in 1957 catalogue, if you have one

[@TheClosetHistorian]

I did do one 56/57 catalog here kzbin.info/www/bejne/fJicm5SehZ6Naa8 But I'll see if I have another one!

[@phranerphamily]

Can we talk about the gauntlet gloves that rain supreme through this entire two books? I love gauntlet gloves and you just can't find them even trying to order from China they just don't exist. Way back in the early '80s right when I was out of high school my mother made me a black skirt that hit just about my ankles that buttoned all the way down and had standout pockets on the hips that is so very like the one from the first pattern book. I'm going to see if I can find that pattern so I can send a picture off to you.

[@CaptainStitchyPants]

I find these videos really fascinating, and that surprises me (entirely about me, not your commentary!) I was very vehemently anti all things "girly" in my youth, thanks to misplaced 90s feminist ideas that to be as good as a man, one had to be more manly 🤯 I wrote fashion off as frivolous and silly. Since discovering CosTube and learning firstly about historical clothing shapes, and then vintage, I'm finding myself interested in learning more about cool fashion details, and wanting to understand how a particular silhouette will sit on this or that body shape. I have channels like yours to thank for this - you, especially, are training my eye to see similar details carried through different eras or genres, to understand how you can do a cyberpunk lookbook that's still 100% you with your love of vintage silhouettes. It's like a whole new world has opened up and I love it - thank you 💜

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

I get that, I really do. After 30 years of refusing to wear anything pink unless my husband did too, I'm finally embracing the ones that look good on me, and feminine-ish clothing... but apparently thus far into my historybounding and hostorical clothing journey, my aesthetic swings between "carpet goblin" and "plaid my mom hates" :)

[@Ella-iv1fk]

I think you've just explained my experience in a way that makes more sense than I would've managed... I never cared about fashion but learning more about the silhouette, historical context, and how styles develop and influence future trends/repeat has really opened things up for me

[@kathybrigger9431]

I grew up buying patterns from Butterick. They fit the best. 2nd was McCall's. I was born in November of 1949. I saw this my whole childhood as we made our clothes because we didn't have money for store bought. We recycled clothes back then for the fabric. I started sewing when I was not quite 9.

[@bethliebman8169]

I used a lot of Butterick patterns in the 60's when I was sewing my high school wardrobe. I agree with you about shirtwaist dresses. Being busty, I find the buttons tend to gape over the bust. I tended to shy away from Vogue patterns--they were more expensive and were much harder to sew. I always love your flipping-through-historic-fashions videos.

[@Hiker_who_Sews]

Ironing was a formidable chore back then. I hope the looped collar had a closure that could be un-looped for ironing. "Wash and wear" and "permanent press" were lies! I love your catalogs, Bianca. Thank you! ..... One-piecers ..... 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@gillianstapleton7741]

The year my mum and dad got married! I'd love anything you made from these magazines, they would look so much like my parents' photographs from that time. Mum got married in a close match for one of the suits pictured - hers was in light sand-coloured wool with blouse, hat, gloves and shoes in navy blue. Thank you for sharing these.

[@cynthiafisher9907]

I love this era of fashion design! My daughter was here from New Zealand over Christmas and she took home a box of vintage patterns from my stash that were mostly 40s-50s. She has been in fashion design school for a couple years, so she was really excited to get them, along with a box of vintage fabric.

[@Hiker_who_Sews]

The double princess seams are dreamy. I'm glad that that coat caught your eye, too!

[@Rhaifha]

Truly doing a public service here Bianca, I love seeing these!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Joelle!

[@maureenwilliford8985]

Oh my God, I want so MANY of these it’s ridiculous! The forties era is definitely my jam. I so love the pencil skirts, the tailored suits, the architecture of the designs, and I have to say the Butterick book was way more interesting than the Vogue. Thanks for sharing these delicious glimpses into the past.😊

[@michellecornum5856]

I'm loving these. I recognized one of the last Butterick gowns as a very pricey one on today's market. I can't wait for the scan! And YES, PLEASE, draft and make whatever you like from these. I'm glad you remarked on the difficulty of Vogue patterns. Vivmom Sews just released a video of a 1970s Vogue pattern book, and she made a similar remark. I think the difficulty of the patterns shows more here than in the 70s. LOVE, love, Love this series.

[@ljshaw8516]

"Significant Dressmaker Details" OMG Gorgeous! Buttonholes have never been my friend either lol

[@luminariastormreaver]

It would be fun to see several of these mocked up and at least 2 made up. Have you thought about making one of the more simple dress and bolero sets using your more futuristic stylings? "Rachael needs a date dress" kind of thing! That hat pattern could come in handy for that, too! Maybe do some ice dying with another simple style? I'd love to see that. You're so creative with all of your side projects and aesthetic decisions. It would be outstanding to see them morphed together.

[@carlenec6209]

Love flipping through these catalogues with you. I would love to wear any of these but alas now I'm retired I can't really go supermarket shopping in them. I've bought some of the vintage patterns from the pattern books put out recently and they are sitting neatly in my pattern box...one day.....Love your videos Bianca. Enjoy your week

[@cathygibbs7246]

This is one of my favourite episodes! (mugler!!!)

[@tammymasson2343]

I love how you point out every little design detail!!! I'm obsessed with all the details, so I appreciate that you don't gloss over them.

[@TheZeyre]

This episode goes on my watchlist for this afternoon with a cold beverage! Thanks in advance! ✨🎀✨🎀✨🎀

[@pamelajohnson9810]

I loves looking through the old magazines loves the suits and dresses from the 40s&50s&60s

[@DB-yb3wd]

I absolutely love these videos. The 40's are also my favorite times too. Thanks for sharing them on Pinterest to get an up close and personal look at all the delicious styles. Thanks

[@seriouslyinsanediva]

I've spent hours lately pouring over pinterest images of vintage fashions. Mainly between the 20's and the 50's. There is something about the 40's that I find particularly swoon worthy. The terms regal, austere, mysterious, elegant and sexy comes to mind. Even though there wasn't a lot of skin sharing at the time. I LOVE THAT ERA. Needless to say that wars are devastating on humanity but maybe it was the war Seitgeist that added that mystique. 😢

[@kfries1282]

HOT DAMN! I love those "Going South" designs

[@JessicasCreativeSpot]

4:03 ooh, I would love to see some double Princess line items!

[@jessicapearcelamothe8484]

I do enjoy these pattern videos. Bingeing second views of many while I’m incapacitated by pregnancy nausea. Dreaming of the vintage pieces I’ll make when I’m back to my normal size (and energy). 😂

[@evadeleon3009]

I would love to see you make the free patterns in the books :) they look so cute!! Loved these looks! It's definitely inspiring me to do some designing/sewing of my own.

[@marathorne6821]

What a wonderful way to start the weekend! ❤ Thank you, Bianca 🙏

[@jasonmack2569]

Thanks! Your cataloging videos always give me a little cheer.

[@marcco44]

what a great historical resource..... i would never have thought of this!

[@TheZeyre]

Whole lot of delight here! Thanks for the walk through! 🙏🎀🎀✨✨🎀

[@barbiedesoto7054]

I loooove 1949 fashion ❤

[@pamfrank3962]

Thank you for sharing these wonderful book patterns.

[@AJansenNL]

I would love a video on how to draft and sew the neckline of nr 5081. It's so beautiful!

[@tanishahogan9396]

Yeah, button holes are not my idea of fun in sewing either! 😄

[@nancyruizalvarez4982]

Had me drooling the whole time. Thanks for sharing 😍

[@caseygibbs9193]

Reminds me of the Haslam system we had here in the UK. It was a pattern system from the 20s to 60s; to draft clothes based on your measurements.

[@PaulineEGraf]

Thanks so much for this. I love these catalog videos. My favourite ones are the late 1940s so this one is right up my alley. Loved it!

[@susanjohnson5824]

Thank you for sharing, these are so interesting

[@lilayogaom]

Yes! Please make the vogue hat! ❤

[@ChociMilki]

Professor B hats off to you as always ! I was watching a project runway episode of old where a “vintage”designer decided to do a “40s/50s” coat … oh honey was it an uninspired under designed bathrobe disguised as a wrap coat! I was flabbergasted in shock at the lack of serve the lack of dart manipulation the lack of style lines!! Watching your channel could’ve saved them from elimination im sure ☠️ a win could’ve been as simple as a Montgomery wards/ butterick / blue patterning table of doom recreation but alas … mediocrity was all that was served

[@jolynnwhite7946]

Very nicely presented enjoy the designs and the commentary

[@SeSeMittens]

Wow, that dress at 8:00 is stunning. I would love to make something like that :D

[@kellylincoln8244]

Please show the patterning of that belted blouse with the two crossover sections! It’s so striking. Love these videos!

[@heatherkemp1846]

I loved the Butterick pattern with the twin princess seams. You could use it for a dress or top too xxx

[@user-er9bp7er8m]

Thank you! So much fun! Vogue re-released the “companion suit and coat” (shown on page 44) in their Winter 2022 pattern collection. I can’t wait to make it from the revised pattern, since my own pattern drafting skills are sadly not up to the task!

[@Ellaodi]

Would love to see a video on the external facing/folded collar thing going on on the pink and striped dress at 13:32! Dont know what those flappies are called but I adore them on rockabilly type outfits and would love to understand how to just add them onto a low or sweetheart neckline 😢

[@TheClosetHistorian]

You can sew the flappies on separately, or for little ones like this pink number just extend the top of the cups a bit and iron them down. I added a separate sort of flare above the bust on this dress from last summer kzbin.info/www/bejne/h5mmdmyNhJ6fhKc

[@NoDecaf7]

I love this look at pattern books vs the other catalogs and appreciate the glimpse into both! So grateful for the work you put into these. They're so relaxing to unwind to ❤

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Rebecca!

[@marciahighsmith4820]

I always enjoy you explaining what and how they did the looks. Thanks

[@kaytiej8311]

While autumn colours are not something I wear, I totally agree with you - consider this my vote for autumn all year round! Especially if I get to wear styles like that. Am I allowed to join in with mulberry, pine green and oatmeal colours?

[@caireenbrain9612]

I always enjoy the catalog flip through. So much fun!

[@fawntheresa5338]

This was wonderful, that striking contrast dress at the end of Vouge is similar. I think to a vintage fabric that Tasha used for her birthday dress this year. I love this time period The very end of the 40s and beginning of the 50s are my absolute favorite dress and clothing designs.

[@cindyfrye3026]

The Juliard wool suit looks like the one that Kim Novak wore in Vertigo!

[@tambriggs]

Bonsoir Bianca, I'm guessing you're packing for your London trip if you are not already underway... But at some point in the future, do you think you could explain how you'd go about drafting the bodice of Butterwick 5081 (at the 8' mark) as I really do not understand how it's put together, but rather love the idea... Thanks for all the videos, I relish each one. And enjoy you super well-deserved holiday on my side of the pond!

[@Notlost-lj9qt]

I am intrigued by the shirred bodice of 4978 but I love the collar of 5072. I’d love to see how it’s done if you wanted to do a mock-up.

[@nataliestanchevski4628]

My partner knows that when I've got Cataloging Catalogs on, I don't want dinner prep company. He thinks it's weird, but he goes away anyway and that's the important bit. 😁

[@JessicasCreativeSpot]

6:30 as a woman who breastfed 3 children for about 6 years all up... having a shirt dress to unbutton helps a bunch 😅 Now I'm no longer breastfeeding, I'm getting back to styles I prefer the look of over necessity lol

[@karinjcollstrup7360]

I went streight to the scans and made the hat! It did turn out well, but ofcouse it is to small for my big head. 😅 So now I am trying to make it larger - and that is not an easy task 😂

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Ha! I'm glad it works but I would probably need it larger as well!

[@lovemesomeslippers]

I enjoy these so much. I’m vogue thru and 5th, I just need to up my sewing skills. I too have questions about a “better” fabric store. Where dey at?

[@lylithkonahara7580]

First off, your videos are very educational and inspiring. Thank you for all the time and care you put into these videos. Second, I just watched your "How I finish seams" video and I am curious if pinking sheers are just not used anymore or by what witch craft they use to stop fabric from fraying? I am working on a jacket where the fabric is heavily embroidered and I want to do things the correct way when it comes to seam finishing so that my garment will look awesome and withstand the test of time. I do not own a serger. Should I use the Rayon seam binding method?

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you! Rayon seam binding is definitely the fanciest method, I was just peeking inside the hems of things at the Alexander McQueen store in London and they use seam binding not serging for designer level garments! Pinking shears can help stop fraying becuase in some ways it creates a controlled amount of fraying, so things usually only ever fray the depth of the dagged edge but not beyond it in my experience!

[@Letha222]

Thanks for sharing.

[@armedvsokord]

Evening wear that looks 80's in a catalog from 49.. hmm someone was trying traveling... 😂

[@lizzaturnbull]

I’m not a fan of a button front shirt dress either - I think it’s because when it is fitted to look right when standing it always seems to gape when sitting and I am a wheelchair user so that is very important!😮

[@nanettebromley8843]

me neither, as a curvy girl and wheelchair user button down dress/skirts/anything below waist gapes. Fits nicely if stood but I squish lots so have to add extra fabric into the pattern. same reason I cannot wear pencil skirts.

[@frugalfemmecarole6517]

Yes please. Do make the hat!!!

[@damogranheart5521]

What the pattern book calls kimono type sleeves...aren't those raglan...nope just looked them up! Batwing sleeves! Nearly got sucked into Google again!

[@kathyjohnson2043]

I use Raglan sleeves any time I can for children's costumes. Sew 2 straight seams for each sleeve/shoulder and then sew under sleeve and side seam as one So easy to fit snd sew.

[@kckazcoll1]

I thought they might be descibed as dolman sleeves :)

[@damogranheart5521]

@kaz coll Most Excellent! Well done, Ye! I just looked it up using Dolman sleeve, and that's the baby!

[@nanettebromley8843]

Ah the research rabbit hole :)

[@damogranheart5521]

@Nanette Bromley If I had a nickel for every time I ended up somehow reading at 3 am. about a 9th century Saint who was decapitated and walked back to the abby, I would be able to buy a lovely scone along with a decent cup of coffee! I haven't done this lately thank fortune.

[@marksoski6454]

You HAVE to make the third dress at 14:45 The militant look of it screams you

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

11:00 Haha, why you would do that is if you're built like me (hips 5" larger than waist and only if waist measurement is pulled very snug), not like you! Now I want a cargo skirt! 25:15 me "Ooh, I like that! Low double-breasted double pointy top over what could be a Victorian walking skirt!" TheClosetHistorian: "Looks like some sort of a band costume to me, not gonna lie." me: "Bahaahaahaa! Mom always told me my taste was in my toes!"

[@aprildriesslein5034]

I really like the look of two darts in the front of a bodice (especially since I'm curvy and my darts therefore large) but I'm not quite sure how to place them if I split them. Does one still point at the apex? If so, which side does the other go on? Or do they frame the apex line? I would love to see a video about that!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Dart fullness can always be put into multiple darts and they can be put anywhere radiating out from the apex yes! I tried to explain in my darts video here kzbin.info/www/bejne/gIOyXnqNm62sn68

[@davriecaro3036]

25:20 Oooh ,now THAT looks 80s😍🤣🤣🤣

[@loretta_3843]

I thought the first dress, with the darts outside was such a timeless, clean shape. I'm trying to loose some weight I recently put on and it made me wonder about being able to design/sew in a way that's flattering for various shapes (even when at perfectly fine weight, I have practically no waist!). I know you are always doing so much and must be so very busy, but any advice on making certain clothes work for various shapes, how to make the most of what we have would be really interesting. Just a suggestion here and there would be great to see how various changes change a look. Besides, you have a great eye! Thanks again for some really interesting content 💐😸

[@kathyjohnson2043]

Others will probably have better advice than me, but here's what I know, taking cues from 1880-1930: go for strong shoulders or big sleeves, a peplin helps balance hips to waist, don't use a gathered waist, an A line with princess seams should be flattering. 1920s silhouette with interest at the neckline and hip. My most successful style is pants with a longer top or jacket silhouette like Bea Arthur in the Golden Girls.

[@k_redacted5353]

12:13 did the 40s already have a version of strapless bras? Cause those are some very backless and sleeveless dresses lol

[@rd6203]

Yes

[@TheClosetHistorian]

They did and I really wish I could order a few from my old catalogs!! 😂

[@nevem5010]

💖

[@kta150]

Do you mind sharing where you find these books?

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Etsy and Ebay!

[@Rotten_Ralph]

🦋

[@mrsgingernoisette]

Where do I know this model? #halp 24:48

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Sorry I have no idea!

[@tonyboloni64]

Patty O'Dress. Is that Irish?

[@anessaharris9947]

🇨🇦😃

[@jolynnwhite7946]

😍🥰👗

[@sureyay1682]

early 50's