Wiring a recharge port

[@guyloren]

Rob,I know you posted this a long time ago now but THANK YOU- your clear explanation & careful methodology have led me at last,today,to wiring my first recharge port (I believe successfully)- I had the video open in front of me as I worked so you've basically walked me through the job.Thank you sir,eternally obliged!😁

[@SpaceWindu]

18th time watching this video. Rob is the MAN!! This is a great help

[@antonharmacinski276]

+1 for helping hands. I'm new to sabers but not to electronics and these guys are awesome. I got mine from Aldi about 2 years ago super cheap and mine has a magnifying glass too. Super handy. If anything, you'll burn you're fingers less.

[@NordicDan]

These videos make me want to get the parts and build a saber. Could be a fun project to coincide with my electronics engineering course.

[@MegaSweeney123]

Awesome vid, guys, really helping me get into saber making :) I'm new to electronics, and was wondering whether twisting wires can produce negative effects once a current is running through them? Moreso the twising of wires in some of your LED wiring episodes than the tips, I just thought to ask as I notice you aren't doing it as much here. Keep up the good work, guys!

[@InterCity134]

Good general overview. The terminology in the section where you describe how to figure out which pin is which on the jack is a bit mixed up and confusing, but overall its a good video.

[@briank5761]

do you have to connect the recharge port directly to the battery, or can you connect it to the battery holder help please

[@MadameTengu]

This is like "Bob Ross: The Joy of Lightsaber Making"

[@SaitoGray]

"There are no mistakes just happy little HOLY SHIT I JUST BURN MY 30$ LED FUCK !!!"

[@wyndorphstormcrow8372]

@@SaitoGray or even worse, what's that funny noise, I smell smoke oh crap now I need a new sound board ( I have done this before, but only once) shit!

[@brandongage5608]

How would you do this with a GHV3 and neopixel set up? would you add a third red wire that goes straight to the pixel PCB?

[@Clonewarz901]

Hey so I got a bit of a problem on my build and need some advice from an expert lol so I’m trying to wire up my saber to use a tp4056 micro usb charge module.. and obviously need a way to kill the power to the board, just wasn’t sure if I should just add a latching switch to the positive lead in between the (board/chip) or should I add it to the negative? Pls help hahah great videos btw

[@LTDLimiTeD1995]

You'll never appreciate a protection circuit more than if you let the leads on a high drain battery touch.

[@FaDeDStudios]

How do you attach the recharge to the sound board and the led?

[@Guitarguyct]

If I were wiring a stunt build (and therefore didn't have a soundboard), would I just wire 1) the battery to the recharge port, 2) the recharge port to a latching switch, then 3) the switch to the LED? Or am I missing something?

[@michaelmilton6704]

Hi Rob, quick question from the UK. If I wire in a recharge port and need a standalone charger, what would I need to buy? Can you link it please, and will it work with UK mains voltage? Thanks

[@briw8929]

really appreciate your work on these videos, very helpful. quick question, you say you use a slightly different connector to save space and not use the jst. what is the other connector? doesn't look like a micro jst

[@MadcowGenesis]

+Bri w (willbo) I use Molexx KK, about the same size as JST. I meant that sometimes I do not use a connector at all to save space.

[@stevenismonisfits9542]

What about a 2 pin recharge port? How the wire that up to a battery & verso soundboard??

[@jeremy2189]

And I'm assuming once everything is done you can wire the wire connector to the soundboard yes? It might be an obvious answer but I am looking at my proffieboard manual and the diagram looks different so I want to make sure. Could anyone also tell me how you would wire the neopixel blade with the recharge port while following this video? Again I am looking at the manual and am not sure.

[@chandlermorris1]

Are the new skilcraft port post configuration the same? With the S/C post for the negative wire to the sound board and the opposite post the positive? The new posts look different then these. They are the same width all the way down and have oval holes in them.

[@MadcowGenesis]

+Chandler Morris I always advise people to test them to make sure.

[@ActionMan153]

is there anywhere else I can get one of the simple 3.7v 2.1mm smart chargers like the ones sold on the website? I'm not certain on the amperage.

[@SireScrubsalot]

Is it okay to use 22 G thats mostly what i have

[@lightsabers104]

Hi can you please provide a link or the part number for molek kk connectors I have look everywhere

[@frankgould8005]

rob why don't you ever do tutorials on led driver wiring also how do you wire a recharge port to led driver i have an idea but your the guy everyone refers to. also think that your video are super helpful thanks for the knowledge

[@b1akn3ss93]

There’s no markings on my recharge port (switch craft) ?

[@jacobmaschmeyer4475]

Tips/thoughts on wiring two 3500mAh 18650 Li-Ion batteries to a single recharge port?

[@zamayarsyed148]

Jacob Maschmeyer well I think you’ll need only 1 18650

[@Furiora]

So, is it possible to wire a recharge port into a saber with sound style 1 hilt (with the black piece that holds the battery, speaker and soundboard)? To me that would be the most optimal set up as you have in hilt recharge for display, but a removable battery for cons and other instances where a fixed internal battery isn't the best choice because of charge times.

[@MadcowGenesis]

Almost anything is "possible". It might be tricky to find space though.

[@keithcevera5760]

What kind of iron do you use those connections happen so quick and smooth

[@MadcowGenesis]

I use a Hakko. But it's often about a good clean tip

[@cbradshaw007]

You mention a switchcraft recharge port but link the one in the TCSS. They are out of stock, can you post the model number of the switchcraft port?

[@MadcowGenesis]

I'm not sure what model. Email Tim on the TCSS comtact page to find out.

[@Mastro716]

Hey Rob, the link for the shrink tubing lead me to a blank TCSS page and I couldn't find any through a Google search either. Would you be able to recommend where to find some or if there are any alternative methods I could use to secure that area? Thank you for taking the time to read.

[@MadcowGenesis]

Hi, It's all here (Under Wiring) www.thecustomsabershop.com/Wire-Heatshrink-C20.aspx

[@lightsabers104]

Please do one for the 1.3mm

[@christophercoon8971]

Can you use a charge port with just light and no sound?

[@leecason9468]

Thanks Rob! But quick question how would I do this without a soundboard?

[@MadcowGenesis]

Same way

[@MinnesotaLG]

so how can I use the red connector at the end of both wires on the lithium battery that it comes with? since you used the white connector that was your personal preference, how do i use the red one?

[@MadcowGenesis]

Same way. Parts are here: www.thecustomsabershop.com/JST-Connectors-C127.aspx

[@briw4647]

I live in the uk, 28 awg stranded wire really hard to come by. but I can find plenty of 30 awg stranded and 26. would 30 be suitable or would you recommend 26 more? many thanks

[@MadcowGenesis]

+bri w 30g is ok as long as it's stranded and you're not doing long runs

[@briw4647]

+Rob Petkau many thanks, the longest length should be 12 inches, no longer

[@j.m.74]

7:45 "I don't want to risk that anything's gonna come in contact with that." *proceeds to lay exposed wire on uncoiled solder from the spool* ...Sorry, just a slight bit of a cringe inducing moment for me. (Yes, I am aware that the battery's red wire is still taped off at this point, not to mention the protection circuit, so no real risk of damaging the battery, but still...) In all other regards this is a nice informative video and I want to say thanks for putting this and your other tutorials here for saber builders everywhere.

[@DamonFyrian]

J. M. The exposed part of the wire didn't actually touch the solder, the plastic insulation did.

[@westonbyrne]

just curious, is the metal recharge port (the shaft with the threads that you screw in to your saber) ever energized? (does current ever go through it)? just curious.

[@MadcowGenesis]

That part is connected to the negative.

[@westonbyrne]

I'm just curious, wouldn't that energize the hilt (or any metal piece) that it is screwed in to?

[@MadcowGenesis]

Being that it's the neg charge, it's ground. Just like the frame of your car.

[@westonbyrne]

ahhh. okay :) thanks a bunch!

[@lodaim7109]

I bought an off brand plug that looks and appears to act the same as yours, however, the one you wired the white wire to, seems to not be connected to anything on mine and the one with the tab is always connected even without a charger or kill key installed. can you advise?

[@MadcowGenesis]

+stephen salstead I can't know for sure. But you can use a multitester to ensure you have the right legs

[@lodaim7109]

I tried that. the one connected to the switch and the one connected to the pin were the only ones that ever seem connected, even with a kill key or dummy plug inserted. the third leg was never connected. im glad that tcss got the switch crafts back in stock and just ordered some. hopefully that will resolve my issue. thanks for getting back to me!

[@123danber]

What kind of charger do I use for this one

[@lightsabers104]

What size is the heat shrink you put on the port

[@MadcowGenesis]

The 1/8" shrink tube at TCSS will be perfect for the individual wires.

[@vammpirros3181]

hey man I have a huge question, so I'm looking to put a PLI on my Saber but I would like it to tell me how charged it is when its plugged in and when its on but I also want the LED to be off when my kill key is in, how do I go about that?

[@MadcowGenesis]

+Alex Tucker Not possible with one PLI. You'll need a separate one on your charger.

[@vammpirros3181]

+Rob Petkau okay so then at that point two would be running when it's on right? I'm just worried about over charging my battery so I've been trying to figure out some way to do it

[@MadcowGenesis]

+Alex Tucker If you have PCB protected cells or a protected pack like TCSS sells - you do not need to worry about overcharging.

[@vammpirros3181]

+Rob Petkau okay cool thanks man

[@dannbrauckmann1545]

If you DO happen to accidentally touch the battery leads together and get a spark, is there anything that needs to be done to RESET the protection circuit in the battery?

[@FreeMind4492]

The protection circuit cannot be "reset", it can only be replaced.

[@LordGaelik]

Can you put a recharging port, for my force fx lightsaber?

[@MadcowGenesis]

Not something I will do. Try asking on the forum

[@earleaccount]

What saber where you building when you made this video?

[@MadcowGenesis]

I don't recall. Sorry

[@earleaccount]

That's OK, I was just curious.

[@Da_Swifta]

How do I wire the recharge port to line up with the switch plate?

[@Da_Swifta]

Correction, Activation box*

[@MadcowGenesis]

+Da_Swifta it screws in from behind the box

[@Da_Swifta]

+Rob Petkau okay

[@derekcallor1549]

What are the pro's and cons to using a 18500 7.4v as opposed to a 18650 3.7v battery?

[@MadcowGenesis]

18500 are smaller - good for tight spaces, 18650 are larger, but last longer.

[@j.m.74]

Derek Callor If we're speaking about batteries in conjunction with sound boards sold at thecustomsabershop.com, a 7.4v 18500 would work with either the Crystal Focus or Petit Crouton, but almost certainly fry a Nano Biscotte, Prizm, or Pico Crumble (over voltage). Those last 3 are designed for a max input of 5.5v, and that's where the 18650 (or any other) 3.7v single-cell battery truly shines (no pun intended).

[@eduardoorantes2674]

is it possible to wire a micro usb port instead of the port you use there?

[@MadcowGenesis]

+Eduardo Orantes Possible yes. But you would need to ensure you are providing the right voltage and current for the battery to charge safely.

[@MrJheath77]

Where can i buy a recharge port, the link redirects to the default page

[@MadcowGenesis]

Here: www.thecustomsabershop.com/Switchcraft-21mm-Power-Jack-P822.aspx

[@chavisglover6175]

Does the kill plug go into the recharge port?

[@MadcowGenesis]

Chavis Glover Yes

[@Jachro]

The link to the recharge port doesn't work and I can't find it on tcss website

[@MadcowGenesis]

+Jachro thanks - www.thecustomsabershop.com/Switchcraft-21mm-Power-Jack-P822.aspx

[@madmad137]

Might be a silly question but could anybody tell me when you will know that your battery is fully charged?

[@MadcowGenesis]

It depends on your battery charger. Some have an LED that changes colour when charged.

[@madmad137]

Ok, thanks. :)

[@HiOctane62]

great video

[@teamclubgamerboys197]

How much wire do I need for this

[@MadcowGenesis]

+Team ClubGamerBoys Depends on your saber. I always advise to order extra.

[@davisdesigns9617]

Is it alright to use 30AWG stranded copper wire????

[@louiscaraballo6786]

❤

[@r4k00n5]

Thanks, used this to do drugs!

[@WushuJedi]

Can a recharge port be wired to a light only build?

[@ascrexdragorn]

Yes, as long as you have a resistor for the led, you'll also want a latching switch or a converter board

[@TheWMS20]

can this be done to a saber that has no soundboard? just the switch and some led's?

[@MadcowGenesis]

+AmiiboLatino Yes

[@TheWMS20]

+Rob Petkau is ther a vid on this but on a boardless saber?

[@MadcowGenesis]

+AmiiboLatino Not by me. But the idea is the same