Removing a stuck CV axle from the hub - Seized - IT'S OUT! - 80yr old tool for the win!

[@Dr.Reason]

Finally! A guy that shows how it REALLY goes, rather than all those “perfect” scenarios we see.

[@dokterkarel]

exactly. "just remove the nut and pull the axle out". Well if it really went that smooth, I wouldn't have to look it up on google/youtube, don't you think?

[@fuckingpippaman]

it really goes if youre retarded or don't know what youre doing. 😂 a 5 minute job if you know what youre doing

[@dokterkarel]

@@fuckingpippaman wut?

[@AC3dot2010]

Shit you ain’t never lied.. this is the reality of the repair 😂

[@cheetahtransport939]

KZbin🤡 could of cut with the torch a long time ago🤷🏾

[@mikerichards4352]

First of all, heat expands steel. You were heating the axel not the housing, which means you were making things worse. Heat (evenly) the outside of the housing with the puller on so when it gets hot enough (before the heat gets into the axel), then you tighten the puller with a impact or socket on a ratchet. Also you should have used the acetylene torch first. My opinion.

[@midnightrider1854]

You are spot on!

[@sonmyr1964]

Indeed! Axle puller will resolve the problem

[@rushthezeppelin]

On the other hand though, heat can also break the rust crystals loose.

[@hipphipphurra77]

Heating is not about expanding/contracting it is for cracking the rust.

[@dm1g]

That's what happens when you're picking your nose instead of listening on school physics classes

[@lehelzelenka207]

During my 14 years as a mechanic I had so many situations like these when you could cry from frustration, how the simplest jobs could become nightmares. Not really missing the trade, even though I liked doing it.

[@learnlkh1]

Nothing to be nightmares of. If you still have "time"

[@MrX-qo5wb]

Lol i got my diploma as an automotive but did some jobs n hated how simple jobs would b a btch to do n took way longer if something went wrong so i never went it to the field but i do my own work on some stuff n w the right tools n videos that are helpful its not so bad to work on stuff here and there n save money. I finally ordered my Milwaukee m18 1/2 mid torque n i have my ball joints to do n cant wait to use my new tool

[@brandondonovan8402]

@@MrX-qo5wb i'm almost out of high school at 17 debating what path to take. I love cars, I have a lot of knowledge but I must agree. There are little things that really degrade you, make you work like a dog and make you really impatient. Those things are keeping me from the field

[@dirtnapz996]

@@brandondonovan8402 Be prepared to spend a lot on tools. Having the best tool for the job is extremely expensive.

[@dup]

@@dirtnapz996 but you'll make that money back in the time you'll save. Sucks buying all these specialty tools but you're unbelievable thankful for them when you need them

[@notforposers]

Thanks for keeping it real. It gets frustrating when you see “DIY” videos that always seem to work out perfect.

[@Nelson4207]

Really that's because so many ppl will complain the video is too long and nothing is happening , damned if ya do, damned if ya dont

[@matthewkubik3874]

This video was all the justification I needed to convince the wife I needed to buy a 30 ton press for my shop! Lol

[@RobertMorgan]

"If only I had a press" as he works on a 5-figure skid loader...

[@ratherbefishing4225]

I was lucky enough to have access to a big press and it worked like a charm. Nice loud bang lol but she let go.

[@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259]

I need to make some fixtures for my log splitter.

[@joeseda8102]

TIP: BEFORE starting to remove the tire, LOOSEN the 30mm - 34mm locknut on the axle , take vehicle to safe location (like big parking lot) and run the vehicle in a few figure 8 patterns. Return to shop and remove locknut with air tool. Works great for removing stuck brake rotors too!

[@snapshot8006]

Great idea! ..what do you think about a stuck front wheel bearing..using a big pipe wrench. .AND a big cheater pipe on the wrench?

[@hokehinson5987]

Yes!! This technique is what we used to get a stubborn wire wheel to release from the splined hub. Even the greased hubs could be stubborn! Great idea!!👍👍👌

[@fakeaccount4092]

Old mechanic showed me this one on stubborn axles worked everytime lol!!!

[@Robalo844]

Gracias ! Ya me la savia Lol😂

[@thatslegit]

well yeah that would work cuz you are exerting more than 30% of the cars weight into the wheel, nice tip

[@iadgreen28]

After all that, bought all new parts, immediately ends video. Hahaha I like your style and comedic timing.

[@Livnlikelarry]

It was never about re using the old part, it was about not letting it win

[@dieseldabz7104]

@@Livnlikelarry Oh but it did win

[@jumpinjojo]

The knuckle was not new.

[@davemorgan8775]

Full time mechanic here, had the same thing a few weeks back. Was probably even more more stuck than yours, like you ended up destroying most of the parts, but that’s just how it goes sometimes. 😄

[@nevinkuser9892]

If it got to that point they probably needed to be replaced anyways.

[@bobtolar681]

You haters and ‘experts’ are ridiculous. Been at this 30 years and ‘the perfect tool’ is what you used . . . Perseverance. I commend you. What works for one job doesn’t necessarily work on the next one. Thank you for sharing. It makes us all better

[@richceglinski7543]

I'm a mechanic in the rust belt. I think it was just plain old rust jacking where the corrosion expands and fuses the parts together. A+ for persistence and working with what ya got. You sure as heck didn't destroy anything that didn't need to be replaced. When I put stuck axles and hubs in the shop press it startles everyone in the shop when they let go. Bang ! Like a rifle LoL

[@normtheteacher5485]

Thought you might be interested in my comment to this video. I pasted it to you below: This is why people should take their vehicles apart when they are new. Lubricate areas the factory didn't. Then regularly keep taking it apart before rust has a chance to build and relube. I am presently doing this with a 1991 mazda 626 as an experiment. Have run into many problems with rust. One by one I am solving them and will never let rust establish again. Rust is the biggest enemy to a mechanic. It is such a joy when I redisassemble a part and it comes apart very easily in 5 minutes when previously on the first disassembly it took two full days of pounding, heating, 10 gallons of wd40, breaking pullers, bending breaker bars. Another problem is the factory way over torqueing bolts and nuts and using loctite on some of them. You will run into this with axle nuts. They are way over torqued in my opinion. I make connections snug and then torque a little beyond snug and that's good enough for me. Then I come up with other ways to prevent loosening such as double-nutting, using castle nuts and making a hole in the bolt for a cotter pin. Drilling a hole in a hardened steel threaded shaft is very difficult. What I have done is to cut a slit on the end of a threaded shaft with a cut-off wheel. Then I will braze the slit filling it with bronze. Then I will easily drill a hole in the bronze for the cotter pin. Sometimes I may use locktite on a nut if I can easily heat it to crystalize the locktite for later disassembly. Red loctitle crystalizes at 400° Fahrenheit and then breaks away easily. I learned that from a loctite representative at a trade show once. Mechanical work is a joy when working on a vehicle that has been properly maintained. Working on a rust bucket is a nightmare. This Mazda is a rust bucket but I will eventually get it converted to a well maintained and easy to work on car. Been working on it for 2 years now. 90 % of that time has been fighting rust and over torqueing.

[@pliedtka]

Some were making stupid comments when my friend after getting his FJ Cruiser from dealership, put the thing on the hoist and basically took apart. Then he assembled it with marine grease and rustproofed the underbody. After 2 decades in Rust Belt no problem taking things apart and wasting time fighting rusted, fused together parts.

[@nutsackmania]

@@normtheteacher5485 Please don't do this to your vehicle; it is completely insane behavior that will almost certainly cause more problems down the road.

[@normtheteacher5485]

@@nutsackmania Its the best thing I ever did. Everything comes apart easily for easy repairs and maintenance. Your point may be valid though for very modern cars. That's one reason I won't get a new car. Just old school for me. The older the better.

[@cardboardboxification]

Have you ever tried rustbuster made by supco?

[@brianstrand5651]

I really didn't read all the comments but when Heating that hub assembly and that axle you should have tried to keep the heat off that axle itself because when you were heating it up it's expanding also you didn't want to expand that axle you just wanted to expand the Hub that the axle was going through

[@LogiForce86]

That's also why I have cans of freeze spray laying around. You can attack it both ways. Hot on the outside cold on the inside.

[@joeconnolly6978]

Weld tip of cv shaft. Quench and repeat. Shaft will contract in splines and easier to separate.

[@anonymic79]

@@joeconnolly6978 This

[@aidansyracuse3338]

He was sayin he didn’t care about the cv axle anymore. They’re pretty cheap

[@p71fan7]

@@LogiForce86 The freeze spray is great stuff!! Just bought some more to have around!

[@chemcorps272]

This is the first time ive witnessed an acetylene torch not work. What a gut busting job

[@eduardosampoia5480]

The trick is to leave the puller on under tension constantly...use penetrating fluid and hit it once in a while. When it's this stuck you can't be in a hurry.

[@vernonchubb8289]

I have a couple of types of pullers my dad made he was a machine shop fitter in the local steel works. Used to see them in his garage when I started helping him when I was 8 . I'm 60 now . God knows how old they really are. If it doesn't come of easily straight away out the old pullers come. Still stored in the old ammo box he had them in, never failed to get anything off . My dad passed away nearly 12 years ago I miss him so but great memories especially when I use the pullers or see the box . Old school is best made to last and do the job first time every time.

[@lovetolearn5253]

This One time I had the same issue. I left force on the axle in the press with lube. About 1 in the morning I heard a loud pop. My wife thought it was a gun shot. Crazy how much force it takes and how rust bonds like weld.

[@TheDaninator]

It's no joke! Lol

[@lyneij]

Same

[@stepheno9569]

I had the same thing happen to me unintentionally. Gave up for the night, left the 2 jaw puller on it, came out in the morning and the puller was laying on the floor and the axle was broke free. It's crazy how constant force over time can do that.

[@schlomoshekelstein908]

@@stepheno9569 i'm no engineer but i don't think it's the pressure and time. i think it might have to do with ambient temperatures, all that pressure and then the temperature fluctuates hot/cold from the day, the same way screws will back themselves out of a deck from heat contraction and expansion

[@Robalo844]

Si eso yo hago en mi work place lo pongo en la presa y me pongo a trabajar en otra cosa and then bang !

[@mikegsg9r]

I spent three days getting a cv unstuck with a 8 lbs sledge, mapp gas and penetrant. I put the nut on the axle, but then put a old socket on the nut and went to town. It only moved a mm on day 3 and finally all the way.

[@inspirehealthandhope]

Hub puller + heat and a little friendly hammer action combined will get it loose. And another tip, put the cv axle nut back on tull flush with the top threads before hitting... this way the axles threads dont get messed up.

[@stephenandloriyoung5716]

Yes. Tighten the puller as much as it will reasonably go, smack the end of the puller screw, this allows it to be tightened further, smack the end again, and so on - or off, actually.

[@joshbaur8181]

Use 2 axle nuts so it locks the nut in place and hit it with a real sledgehammer. Plus you know your replacing that hub sometimes they pop out easier by hitting the hub assembly

[@bignix3490]

Exactly...thats what I said too... he doing to much... he turned a 30 minute job...into a full day of work

[@ronaldchong]

@@stephenandloriyoung5716 i owe you a beverage bruh! my harbor freight 3-jaw puller worked on the drivers side but broke on the pass side. i got a stouter one but it wasn't budging. almost felt defeated then saw your suggestion. damn, that worked perfectly! with each smack, i could easly get a quarter turn til tight, repeat and done. whew! thanks!

[@stephenandloriyoung5716]

@@ronaldchong Great! I know they can be very reluctant to let go, and I'm glad that approach worked for you. It's almost enough to make a guy think he should grease, oil, anti-seize or wax the spline before installing the new bearing, right? (But where's the fun in that?)

[@GaryH1989]

The clip of Kip saying yessss when the axle popped out was hilarious dude

[@Viking380]

I would suggest heating the hub outside where the studs are and let the hub expand, if you heat the shaft also they both expand.

[@benjamincrooker2533]

Yep as entertaining as this is it's too bad you had to ruin all that equipment. Definitely heating the hub and putting on the nut upside down is a good thing. Shaft $350 Hub $90 melt The Hub only. 🤪

[@corkyakins9075]

@Betrayed Parents Yep, exactly what I was thinking when I first saw where he was putting the heat

[@Garmoo5600]

Not to mention your changing thr temper on the splines

[@rodkubis384]

You need to be heating the outside of the flange and keep the puller under tension. It will cause the flange to grow and the presuure will push it through. Hitting the puller bolt is good too.

[@Noneyabuzines]

Exactly, it"s a shame people that don't work in the industry make videos showing how not to do things. No technician with any experience would take a cv shaft out this way or would be unemployed or poor.

[@thrillbilly9785]

“Can’t be stuck if it’s liquid.” 😂😂

[@Bonewalker-2000]

That’s the very last level. You start with 5 other level and work your way to it and the one after makes 6. You have 7 levels of that crap.

[@April-r8b]

You beat me to it

[@SpringHeeLJaK89]

He riveted it on

[@benromney9279]

Thank you. I'm relieved to know that I'm not the only person struggling with this. I was afraid that I was doing something wrong, but now I know that sometimes it's just stuck.

[@jacksons1010]

Same here - right in the middle of the nightmare. I’m thinking to cut my losses and just replace the hub. Yank the shaft and hub out like he did and just bin it.

[@joew5862]

A good air hammer would have got that cv shaft out. I live in Ohio with lots of salt and never had one the air hammer couldn’t get. The fast hits brake up the rust .

[@jamiemccort8388]

Same here 😊 my air hammer has never failed me on one of these

[@1337penguinman]

@@jamiemccort8388 Riveted ball joints are where I fell in love with mine.

[@anthonygoad5643]

I'm a salt lake mechanic, and an air hammer and a little lube is exactly how you do it- definitely not by cooking the axle and mushrooming the end of it. Jackass...

[@wymansst]

Ditto on the air hammer. Worked in Southern Ma and RI. Salt and rust technician as well.

[@chronicblazer84]

5lb sledge and a brass punch if you don't have air tools. But I agree pneumatic hammers are the shit if you have a decent compressor.

[@jameslyons6196]

I have been in those situations years back and learned to only heat the outer side of hub to expand the diameter then press or tap. The splines did look over heated but all was with great determination.

[@edwardgomez5616]

You're a very smart man. 👍

[@1RAYGC]

Exactly you want to heat the hub not the axle.

[@peteross2293]

had that happen to me awhile back, I tried for an hour to get it free, then just went to the wreckers and got another spindle and axle for $80

[@OC3707]

Your puller didn't work because you were using an impact. You would think an impact would work, but it doesn't apply continuous force. It only applies a series of impulses and the threaded rod is twisting slightly and then relaxing over and over and reaches a point where it will not get any tighter. Use a big breaker bar instead. This is also why using an impact with a long extension can be ineffective unless it designed as an impact extension.

[@wildmanturner]

Most common issues like this are simply because nobody coated the splines or flanges with a thick coat of grease before assembly. Grease it this time so it’s easy next time

[@zefdin101]

I was thinking that too… the grease isn’t to lube the splines so much as to keep water out . Some nice marine grease 10years prior and the thing would have slid out..

[@Halogamerskate3]

So true, i got one axle out and got grease on the hub splines now I think these are the original axles from 08 never been touched

[@Dustin_the_wind]

This. After fighting one once, I grease every cv axle I do; come out easy. Makes me wonder why it isn't common practice.

[@Dytopjewa7631]

Exactly! Or anti-seize compound

[@gmctech]

I've been a professional Red Seal Technician for about 3 decades and i just put a front hub bearing in my parents Kia Sorento... Well i finally met my match. I destroyed multiple pullers and did just this, i removed the entire knuckle and axle shaft.... WELL..... 20 tonnes of pressure later with not so much as a creak out of it, i cut the outer CV joint socket off and pressed the hub out of the knuckle with the threaded shaft still in the defective hub and grabbed a cheap white box axle and just accepted defeat and whipped it back together... I have to do the right side next so at least i know exactly what to do and what parts I'll need.

[@benreid7567]

Best wat to remove anything like that is to use a puller or a press and leave tension on it and heat the outer periphery of the hub. This will allow the hub to expand away from the axle while the axle remains cooler. If you are using a puller keep tension on and srike the puller bolt head with a brass hammer and the shock can help to loosen the stuck hub. Also if you are using a puller don't us an impact wrench use a hand tool as you can feel the tension. If that had let go while he was holding it chances are he would have lost his finger/s.

[@boogerhead0]

That is f.u.n.n.y ! Looks like you managed to salvage the sheet metal dust shield. Hub shot, cv shot, hub bearing shot. Maybe the knuckle was usable... dunno about that. Have you considered a 12-ton shop press for you pal's shop? Never, in 50+ years of mechanic work, have I seen such a stubborn spline... but the deformation on the splines showed the truth.

[@DK-jg5vk]

Here I am again watching your video 2 years later because I have this problem once again. Thanks to your video I went straight to my trusty 3 jaw puller, PB Blaster and a propane torch. It took a while, but I managed to get the CV shaft to budge with everything still attached to the car. My advice to anyone who ends up going down this rabbit hole... do not smack the axle shaft directly with your B.F.H. Put a piece of 2x4 between your hammer and the shaft and don't think your doing yourself a favor by putting the nut on the shaft and hitting that with a hammer. You're only going to mess up the threads on the nut or the axle. Learn from my mistake.

[@fooddude1980]

i'm a backyard mechanic and I LOVE my 3 jaw puller. anytime i change a wheel hub i use it to push the axle back, it also helps loosen the hub from the knuckle sometimes as you're pushing the axle back. i've had to use slide hammers to yank axles out, and once had to cut an axle out with an angle grinder when the axle joint seperated, but i have been fortunate enough to not encounter an axle frozen into the hub yet.

[@sayjindefender]

Loved it! My dad’s usually abides by the principles of brute force an ignorance and sometimes we ended buying the “fixed” parts. Great effort! Thank you!

[@alborgdenmark26]

What an incredible (and educational) piece of misery. Amazing that the jaws on the puller didn't break. Thank you so much....yeah i've been there and done that as well.

[@jeffclark5024]

We made a device for such extremely stubborn cv axles… it’s a box made out of 3/8 plate steel and it’s got a U shaped relief so you can hook it over the hub then drop a 20 ton bottle jack in there and push the axle out. This sometimes damages the bearing and axle but that’s not the worry. You’re trying to safe the knuckle

[@midnightrider1854]

Got a drawing? Your idea sounds like a great idea. I live in a rust belt and deal with this on a constant basis.

[@cm1133]

I spent 11 hours trying to get the CV axle out of my 2017 Ford Escape SE. I am so glad I’m not the only one who has battled rust seizing and have won.

[@Gmanzable]

What method worked for you? I have a 2013 escape same issue

[@patrickkennedy5452]

Went through this EXACT scenario with a Kia Rio. Funny watching this now because I went through the exact same thought process on what to do next, only difference is I actually went and got the very same 20 ton press you showed and when I put the axle in it, the knuckle actually shattered before the axle broke free so you were probably better off without it lol.

[@ricogonzalez7508]

This is every job that’s only going to take me an hour. 😂. The cutaways and comments comedic gold

[@cmz85]

Your patience is very admirable..

[@techman9894]

Got to say a good 3 legged puller. Torque it up hard and hit end of bolt with a good hammer then torque it up again then hit bolt then repeat. Will work in 99.9% of cases.

[@midnightrider1854]

True but use a long handled breaker bar instead of an impact, you will get alot more force out of it, and put a socket over the end of the puller before you strike it and you wont take the risk of mushrooming the end of the puller.

[@Arvence]

Wow. That's why labor costs so much at repair shops. Never know what you will encounter. Great job guys! 👍🏽👍🏽

[@panthers559]

thats really what it is unfortunately, most people don't see it that way and want either low to practically zero cost work done and give u shit when you tell em what labor runs smh lol

[@dennisrphymurphy7929]

I am so absolutely impressed with your determination... good on you guys!! Almost everything I do to repair/replace something... even windshield wipers or headlights, usually throws a bunch of this kind of grief at me. Persevere... YOU WIN !!

[@RedWhiteAndBlueVideo]

I had a malibu that had a stuck axle, I was wailing on. I thought I would never get off. Suprisingly I put the air hammer on it and it came right off.

[@rickeymorrison1821]

That's the only way I remove them never ever had one stuck I couldn't get loose remove abs sensor, heat go at it with air hammer with pointed tip works every time.

[@theundergroundlairofthesqu9261]

Air hammers are awesome!

[@MrX-qo5wb]

Would love to have an air hammer some day. They help a lot in times like these i feel like

[@theundergroundlairofthesqu9261]

@@MrX-qo5wb Check out Ingersoll-Rand 114GQC on amazon, just under $50. It's a good start!

[@torevenheim9607]

Had same problem on my alfa166, 40 ton on the press to get it of, you vill not belive how small rustgrains on the spline to cause this problem, a little filing and rinse and it slide freely, allways use coppergrease

[@davidburgess741]

We all knew this would happen. You did it the funner way!

[@eastunder55]

Your battle with the CV axle reminded me of an IC Weld video where he was removing a stuck pin from a machine with a 20 ton hydraulic jack with no success. He said he was going to get another tool and the video resumed with him assembling a 50 ton jack in the press fixture. The bang from the pin coming loose was heard in the next county. Some things are so satisfying.

[@lyneij]

This can be a very tricky situation , especially once you introduce heat . There is a high risk of other parts being damaged in the process but it is definitely something that can be done . My z had this happen on the RR and I pulled with axle with knuk and ended up putting it in a hydraulic press , soaking it , putting 20k on it , and left it over night . Came back in the morning and the axle was laying on the floor . Also watched how the hub spun after everything was reinstalled without the wheel on , checked the alignment . Everything worked perfect .

[@tonycollinsworth7393]

You started by putting that tooll on then heat from the out side the ring put no heat on the shaft put a wet rag on it to keep it cool put psi on the tool when it expans it will jump

[@dragontalontsiawd]

I love your uniform, Mexican construction boots!!!

[@351cleavland]

For anyone dealing with old seized parts, if you have the luxury of knowing ahead of time, start spraying the parts 2weeks before working with Free all. It really does break down rust into a powder. Every 3 or 4 days spray the parts. In many cases it will result in success.👍

[@spelunkerd]

What a great video. I think I watched this a few years ago, but it was just as entertaining a second time. All that effort to save a knuckle you might find in a junk yard.

[@l0I0I0I0]

2 thoughts, you want the hub to expand, not the Axle but your heat was focused on the axle which causes it to expand and harder to remove. 2. Never fails, cheater bar with pipe on it and heat the hub only, as much as possible. It will pipe right off .

[@malourocha9211]

You're a joke

[@ccgrider1014]

And that's how I ruined a forcing screw. REALLY STUCK!!!

[@mitchnn]

In the 2 decades I work on cars, I get many of these type of situation and ALWAYS gets it out within 5 minutes. Its simple....use a puller and put pressure axle nut while hitting hard on the HUB. The shock vibration, along with constant pressure force on the axle will work.

[@Downsolow]

I'm a certified tech and been in the business over 15 years. And I've used 20 ton shop press and them not move. What I usually do is put pressure with the press . Heat the hub and air hammer it till it lets go. And often takes a while.

[@joeconnolly6978]

Why don’t you guys not stick weld 3/4 times tip of knuckle shaft quenching every time. Comes out easy.

[@Downsolow]

@@joeconnolly6978 Not sure what you mean! And never worked in a shop with a stick welder. Every shop I worked in had MIG.

[@ronaldbrosius7488]

Would have saved alot of time just buying new hub and axle at the beginning of the job😅 good job!

[@01rnr01]

I particularly love the saving money aspect of such dyi projects xD

[@mctobbsi]

I have had the same experience. I put the whole spindle in a hydraulic press and crossed my fingers. The rust bond gave up at nearly 30 metric tones on the gauge. I bent the hub so had to replace ut just like you. Good you got it out in the end.

[@colinellicott9737]

Perseverance ! Just a thought - the heat may have been more effective over the entire hub flange to expand it while trying to keep the shaft cool with freeze spray to shrink it.

Just had a similar situation and came across your video. Big hammer wasn't moving it at all, also gave up on saving the end of the axle, figured might as well replace it anyway if going through all this trouble. Was about to call my father to see if he had a jaw puller...gave the tool chest another look for anything I could use and came across one of those Chief air hammers from Harbor Freight. Used the pointed attachment, which worked well with the dimple in the end of the axle. Leaned into it (not too hard, have to let it move a little) for about 5-10 minutes and the axle finally started to move. After another minute it popped out. Just throwing that out there as another option for a shitty situation.

[@AutoTechWorld_DIY]

When watching this, I realised that I could use that tool as well. Had one sitting at the shop, just with 3 arms. Thanks for the video. 👍

[@Palvader]

This makes me feel better about giving up on a bearing replacement today after breaking one puller and maxing out another. Now I know that it takes heat + 3 pullers!

[@fbeale3537]

You would be correct, once you have the puller under pressure give either the bolt or the CV cup a tap with the hammer then put pressure on again, also use brake fluid for a penetrating fluid. Always use hand tools on pullers and not pneumatic or battery tools.

[@geeyore7726]

Yes. Often a lot more than just a tap! Hand tools sound good, but tools are cheaper than shoulders. Quality pullers are quite OK with air wrenches and hammers. And with the pneumatic impact wrench you don't have to fight to hold the hub from turning.

[@Megalocade]

I've had them like that before on an old ford, I used a cheap 3 jaw puller and snapped it then used my dads 1950s puller and it broke free, what a job, I mushroom the end of the CV like this video hammering it so used a die grinder to grind away the mushroomed bit and used a thread cutter to put new thread on the CV again.

[@TonyTony-xj6uv]

For start take the shaft out of the cv joint to make the item your working on smaller and less cumbersome. Secondly when you put so much pressure on it the splines on the joint will expand inside the hub and make it tighter. Third its the hub you want to heat so that it expands away from the CV, you want to keep the cv as cool as you can. And lastly a hydraulic press would of just damaged the knuckle because you would have no place to grip it at the flange in a press. But considering you replaced both the parts you could of just drilled releaf holes around the shaft between the shaft and hub.

[@scottbenjamin5047]

A tip: Anytime you need to hammer on a threaded end like that, put the nut back on just flush with the end. The nut will help to keep the end from mushrooming and might even repair the threads as you back it off.

[@terrymcguire8476]

Next time , leave the assembly on the car , block the hub so it can't spin. Put the wheel puller on , then use a power handle with socket on the puller and use a 4 to 5 foot cheater pipe on the power handle. It will give far more power than an airgun, but stand to the side and keep your hands away because it is under pressure and will fly off with tremendous force once it breaks loose.

[@dennisprevost8796]

I watched this because I'm facing the same situation right now. What I do is take off the axle nut and turn it around and put it back on partway backwards, Then cover it with something and beat the snot out of it until it hopefully pops. Also if you're using those puller tools it will fit inside the opening in the back of the axle nut. Hope this helps someone else. Great video though ;)

[@PhillipMikeHunt]

Put the puller on with maximum tension. Then hit the shaft head with a hammer. It gives it the shock load that you can't get with torque alone. Also works with Pitman arms and balljoints.

[@hlrembe62]

I can't believe how far down the comments I had to go to find another person with the CORRECT way of doing the job!! 👍

[@PhillipMikeHunt]

@@hlrembe62 I guess we're the two smartest people in the room.

[@hlrembe62]

@@PhillipMikeHunt oh, I try not to make that claim I work too dang hard too be smart.😉

[@PhillipMikeHunt]

@@hlrembe62 I just watched the video again. He wrote at the end that he should have hit the tool. I probably never watched the full video the first time.

[@combsd3283]

This was impressively stuck. I've never met a CV axle shaft I couldn't drive out by backing the axle nut off flush to the end of the shaft and giving a "Hulk smash!" or two with an 8lb sledge. Keeping the nut on prevents the mushrooming you experienced.

[@steeldog173]

Worked as a supervisor in a shop, and this would always happen to Ford Explorers. Mind you I live in Sunny Puerto Rico in the Caribbean. So its not always salt issues.

[@GMoney-B]

I’m really appreciative of the videos where they undo the axle but and push with a finger the axle toward the trans, but wtf lol. I am in this spot now and think I will just put the nut back on and keep driving on a bad cv joint because I have to jeep making money with my job I use my car for. And also look for a good job working from home so I can figure out my car. It’s nice to know I’m not completely stupid because I figured I would have to take off the hub too to get the axle out or buy a new hub rather because I don’t have tools or expertise to get this thing out. I’ve been enjoying doing maintenance on my car for a few years now, but I think I hit my limit of ability with this.

[@clifffoltz651]

Thanks for sharing your expierience with us ! Nothing I hate more than stubborn car parts !

[@Truetoself3838]

Funny how he made up his mind to buy a new one but persisted with destroy that one! True man thinking👌🏽🤣🤣🤣 I think all us DIYers have been there! But lesson learnt!

[@mohammedali672]

To save those end threads , use a 2 lb. Ball Peen with the ball end in the dimple on end of shaft , hold it there and hit the ballpeen with a 4 lb'er ball peen or sledgehammer . Hitting that 2 lb will allow the force to transfer to the shaft with out rounding over the end with the bigger hammer . Two people should do this , 1 holding the 2 , the other swinging the BFH . Learned this in 6 years of tank driving !18 hubs to maintain ....you learn alot of tricks .

[@ShannonCoffey-l6b]

Htting a hammer with a hammer is not a good idea.

[@mohammedali672]

@@ShannonCoffey-l6b I can say without the ability to strike the flat face of a 4 pound ball peen with a 12 pound sledge hammer to drive a 10 foot 300 pound Torsion Bar out of the Hull of a M - 1 tank or a Track - pin out of a End Connector while under small arms fire , then your forcing the Crew to Un - ass and scuttle a Multi Million dollar Tank that I signed for . I'll smack the Ball peen , TYVM .

[@stephenrose8188]

Agree with these guys comments, heated the wrong part and the hub puller assuming that the screw had a point or ball in the tip to center it was the correct approach. Personally I do not tighten with an impact wrench as this gives no 'feel' to what is happening, when it's bloody tight then put it on a really solid (no bounce) surface and whack it square on the force screw. I can also tell you that freeze spray (& the Loctite one is the best I have used) is better than heat if you wish to reuse parts, I know you purchased new in the end. However it reusing parts is required then heat may destroy the strength of a key component. Yours went beyond that and yes I have used heat plenty of times when appropriate. All jobs can turn sour and be a right bastard, we've all been there.

[@jimeditorial]

What a battle! I usually preload the spindle using a puller like your old one, the add heat to the outside of the hub. You'll hear it pop free....then penetrating oil.....but that one was super tight

[@wrenchgearsadventures]

Maaan, I can sympathize with you. I had one a number of years ago on my 2009 Chevy Uplander van. Exact same scenario as whet you show here. Here's the entry from my notes on that van ..... June 11 2016 - Finally got the R/F wheel bearing swapped out, 5 years warrantee on the new bearing and hub. It took almost 2 weeks of crap, weather and difficulty. The outer c/v joint was incredibly rusted into the bearing hub. Heat with rose bud, pounding, soaking with every type of penetrating fluid for a week, broke 2 pullers, more heat, nothing will get the splines out. I finally cut the c/v joint with an angle grinder and cutoff wheel so I could push it through from the inside. I’ll get a new outer c/v joint → Turns out that they don’t sell outer joints anymore. I had to buy a whole new half shaft. $96 + tx from John, life time warranty. Even if a boot rips, you get a whole new shaft. They don’t even sell boot kits anymore. So now the R/F has new bearing hub and half shaft.

[@jackalninezeronine]

Man, I know those feels. Literally tried the same series of tools in that order.

[@johnnoell7690]

I have done this twice in my lifetime. Even used a press and left it in the press overnight with pressure on and rust penetrate on it. Used torch. Got it out after a few days but everything but the backing plate was ruined. lol. Just like what you did. Only we did all with the press. Even with the press it was almost impossible

[@garymucher9590]

Amazing how rust can lock up things better then most any type glue or even some weldings...

[@chronicblazer84]

It's most likely a tapered driveshaft, it has nothing to do with rust if it's tapered.

[@joecaseyj]

@@chronicblazer84 wrong. Dissimilar metal corrosion- aluminum on steel.

[@chronicblazer84]

@@joecaseyj what is dissimilar metals? The hub is an alloy, the bearing is an alloy, and the shaft is an alloy... Dissimilar metals normally cause oxidization, not corrosion, as corrosion comes from external sources, such as salt and water. The hub is sealed so the splines can't be corroded... Pro tip, remove the shaft completely, and you will be able to hammer it out, kind of pointless to hit a shaft that is still connected at the flange and can't move. 👍

[@joecaseyj]

@@chronicblazer84 guess you didn’t pay attention in chemistry class..

[@joecaseyj]

@@chronicblazer84 oxidation IS corrosion smh..

[@johnbaumgardtiii8568]

The axle shaft sticks out enough that you can loosen the nut and leave it toward the end and you still have room for the splined part to start moving. Keeping the nut on will straighten the threads up when you remove the nut after getting the cv joint broken loose. It’s rare that they stick that bad. Great job hanging in there and not giving up.

[@lesterfougere6923]

I picked up an 8 inch three arm jaw puller about ten years ago,and like you it did dent let me down since. Thanks for filming all your attempts. It’s nice to see people being human,not right and perfect all the time. Great video,Lester

[@castloader1715]

I got the hub puller same as this video. I had to pound on the screw with a mini sledge, then turn 1/8 of a turn and repeat. It took probably 15-20 min of this to get the axle off, but it finally came in the end. I think heat all around is bad. Heat expands the metal in all directions which makes everything tighter. Doing this in the dead of winter is your best bet.

[@anonymic79]

Never expect your impact will do the job over a good breaker bar and a socket. I've seen guys go ages on something stuck with an impact and end up breaking the bolt free or snapping something with a bar. So those first pullers should have broken or the shaft come out before you gave up on them.

[@Mr1deerslayer]

Yes! I would have went until the puller broke or the breaker bar

[@pizann350]

I believe that impact was not near powerful enough, I have the same one and it will barely take my truck tires off , my 3/4 drive Milwaukee 18 volt has way more torque

[@aloiba100]

I agree

[@sweetpeaz61]

totally correct, impact is so wrong in this application for many reasons, but a good steady torque from a breaker bar on that hub puller would deffo have poped the drive shaft out at the very begining before ruining the drive shaft with heating and beating it

[@1windozesuk]

Yes, a breaker bar with a cheater pipe over it would have probably worked with that first puller. Or an Aircat (1150?) pneumatic air gun with a short air hose and milton high flow air fittings would have probably worked too.

[@geraldc.37]

Had a similar experience on a Pontiac Aztec front hub. Ended up placing the knuckle w/hub and shaft in a press, End result was the aluminum knuckle shattered. Ordered a knuckle, hub, axle. and backing plate.

[@mikeberry304]

Been there , done that quite a few times and I do this for a living at my garage , very hard to explain to a customer that it has taken 2 days to split a hub apart , many customers would just buy a 2nd hand full hub unit from the breakers yard , great result 👍👍

[@mikemcg3921]

I applaud the will to continue on- id have gobe to a scrap yard and purchased another knuckle assembly and scraped all the stuck parts

[@scottballin3798]

cool video --- I mean no offense but it appeared as though you were applying heat to a male part that was stuck inside a female part.... causing male part to expand and make it all even more stuck. I usually look to apply heat to the female part..... also, CRC makes a spray can chemical for cold shocking stuck parts

[@trealwilliams1563]

It'll expand, but as it cools it will contract !

[@combsd3283]

Calm down sir.. we don't need graphic descriptions of how you apply heat to a female's parts. This is a family channel.

[@jam9297]

The idea behind using heat is that the parts expand, crush the rust, tighten up and the contract when they cool down and hopefully it's not as tight after. Also penetrating oil can hopefully get in then

[@brianconnolly5649]

Probably annealed the heat treated axle

[@InCountry6970]

I feel your pain. Once a hub gets wet then hot from a bearing going bad, it fuses like it was welded solid. You stayed with it longer than I would, good job.

[@jonathanbenson6963]

Laughing at all the armchair Internet mechanics telling you what you should or shouldn't have done. There comes a certain point when working on your own stuff where you accept it as a challenge to disassemble it by any means necessary, regardless of the carnage.

[@alale923]

Preach brother. Greatest feeling finally getting it free or done.

[@autobotavengerfireballxl5339]

do it right or dont do it at all....

[@turbanwearersblow]

Absolutely

[@Yungpablo313]

Exactly!! Me: REALIZE STUCK PART Wife: Just buy a new part Me:ME TO STUCK PART: CHALLENGE ACCEPTED 🤷🏽‍♂️😂😂😂🥴🥴🥴 Wife:Here we go🤦🏽‍♀️ 😭😂🥴

[@senivan22]

I live in Chicago and I can remember the frustration when I had the same issue, on my old camry, I did the same I took out the entire cv axle with the hub brought it to our local mechanic shop and in 15 mins they were able to pop it out, they were so nice so nice they did not charge me when they probably saw how defeated I am when I turn over the job to them. They told me to do the same thing on the other side and they will take care of it. Im just DIY guy I cant imagine dealing with this on daily or weekly basis if I am real mechanic on the rust belt area.

[@richardbates2367]

Look into the harbor freight I believe it's a 20ton shop press my uncle has 2 of them no issues..

[@dflex4180]

yes sure only $1000

[@richardbates2367]

@@dflex4180 ,Nope harbor freight 20ton shop press item number 65330 $249

[@mrau92me]

My Mazda 6 axle was so stuck a 40T press broke the steering knuckle before it released

[@richardbates2367]

@@mrau92me I'm just saying a press,heat and the hammer to start with at the beginning would have done wonders lol..

[@Align700nitro]

for PB blaster to work, you need to tab the thing every few hour or once a day for like 2 weeks. Used PB blaster to remove rusted in header bolt with absolute no damages, but it took a week and half.

[@tysauce1986]

Man I've seen those two jaw pullers go flying when they're sitting all caddywompus like that.

[@pawpatina]

7:10 HEATING THE WRONG PART... heat makes metal get bigger and softer... so you just swole the axle out into the hub even more and then beat it to death since it was warm enough to deform....

[@brentpfeiffer4043]

Had one like this on a ford transit connect. I used my 30 ton shop press. Snapped the spindle in half. Bent my press table and made a boom so loud the police showed up. Replaced everything in the end. Other side of the vehicle pushed out with my fingers.......some just never come out period.

[@twentysacdiscprest2k]

I took one to my stepdad's shop after my 30ton didn't work. 250 ton press and we maxed it out without it popping loose. Bent and molded a whole lot of it but it's still stuck in to this day

[@ismaelcarrillo3956]

Quick tip. If you have to hammer the end of a bolt, leave the nut flushed at the end to protect the threads.

[@davidyj9013]

Wow! I didn't think it was possible to make something so simple so complicated. At the two minute mark you introduced a tool that bolted to the studs. That was the answer. I did the same thing on my '98 LeSabre. Only difference was I used a BFH while the tool was under tension, plus being on the vehicle gave it a more solid foundation so the force of hammer blows went directly to the axle, not the trash can. It took about 30 minutes tightening, hitting, tightening, hitting, etc., but the axle splines finally dislodged without the need to disassemble the front end. Would you have been successful without the torch? I didn't have one.

[@pliedtka]

Lucky you it finally popped. Last week when working on 5yr old KIA Sportage we had to cut the hub along the spline to free the rusted axle. The hub was so thin that it bent when we tried your method. And all because of the cracked ABS ring. I have no idea what kind steel they used. Since I live in the Rust Belt, I always put lots of grease on bolts, axels, hubs, etc, to prevent water and moisture from situations like this one. So often bolts the size of a finger would snap even when heated.

[@davidgrisco1939]

Dan, I hope you applied anti-seize on the new assembly :)

[@TheDaninator]

Sure did!

[@sargetester99]

@@TheDaninator I hope you didn't because you will miss out on having this much fun the next time 😉

[@TheDaninator]

@@sargetester99 yeah, it’ll be real fun, cuz it’s not my car! 😂👍

[@orionfixr7713]

@@TheDaninator ; What make car was this on ?

[@VerminFrogg]

And to think, all that could have been avoided with a little anti-seize compound on the axle shaft during assembly…..

[@TheDaninator]

…an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. As they say.