How to remove a rusty stuck Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly. EASY! No sledgehammer required!

In this video, I show you how easily remove a stuck, rusty, frozen axle wheel bearing hub assembly, easily, with a couple nuts and bolts. I have battled wheel bearings many times, nearly loosing hope, but this easy method works great! No sledge hammer required.
This is specifically being shown on a 2014 Chevy Impala, but the procedure is the same for many makes and models.
I walk you through the whole procedure, step by step. Lets remove a wheel bearing!
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#impala #wheelbearing #removal
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How-to and Reviews

[@tiredofit1429]

I'm going to do this slick trick. But afterwards I'm still going to beat that bearing with the sledge hammer, just because.

[@russellgatten9171]

This is probably the most amazing thing I've ever seen you sir deserve a gold medal it's very simple and easy you have no idea of how many times I've almost killed myself to get a wheel bearing out thank you very much for putting that on here for people to learn

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Lol. Thanks. It has been great for me. I used to wait until I had one or two days free before starting a wheel bearing hub because the battle could take a couple days. This takes about 15 minutes to setup and extract. It’s been great!

[@consciousobjector2507]

*HE'S SAVING LIVES!!*

[@consciousobjector2507]

​@@HowtoandReviewsOfficialthat's insane. I feel like I have the secret to the universe! I'm about to undertake this job on a car that's lived its 100,000+ life up north and rust is everywhere, dust shields long rusted off, and I hear that sound lol and was dreading knuckle busting and using those words I'm not supposed to use according to my better half. You're a life saver! 👍🏻

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

@@consciousobjector2507 that’s how I feel about it. I hope it helps!

[@GG-ub4ej]

Unfortunately I'm going to need this information this coming weekend. I sure do appreciate having it. I just hate changing cv joints but it has moved to the top of the to do list. This is truly a great strategy.

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

It’s a good backup plan if it doesn’t slip out. Not sure if you were planning on replacing the bearing hub assembly too since you are going for the cv axle. If it doesn’t easily slip out, and/or if it has significant miles on it, I would personally replace it. I hope it goes well!

[@GG-ub4ej]

@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial I appreciate the reply. I am planning on changing the bearing hub at the same time.

[@thebeardedsupra3925]

Holy crap man you just saved me and my sanity 20 year old rust Chevy hubs did all the normal stuff found your video. Love it hub is out

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Great to hear!

[@williamrosenow6176]

I did a Wisconsin pontiac torrent. Punched out a stud,drilled the hole out so the bolt I had fit through then tighten til it moves then rotate to the next spot and repeat. You're going to throw away the hub and studs anyway. Can't really wreck them more. I used to like an air hammer with a sharp bit but this is better.

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Nice! Thanks for the update!

[@johnroberts3824]

Best to use grade 8 bolts & nuts. Some lube on the threads may help as well.

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Very good recommendations! Thanks for sharing!

[@jakeromano622]

I spent 2 days fighting my wheel hubs and this was the only thing that would work. Thank you!

[@PSYGOZz]

Nice!

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

That’s great to hear! I’ve spent days hammering stubborn wheel hubs more than once. It is not fun. Glad you beat it!

[@KeithJones-lg9vj]

I used 5/8" thick bolts and one broke. I put a second one in, and repositioned both 5/8" bolts against the dust shield slightly, and the bearing slowing came out. Didn't think the bearing would come out but it did. So much for the salty roads in NJ.

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Awesome! Thanks for sharing!

[@TheGreatHrudini]

Excellent, EXCELLENT video

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Glad it was helpful!

[@johnaustin9051]

Great, straight up video. Excacly the info I was looking for.

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

I appreciate the comment. Glad it helped!

[@jeffculpepper3492]

I used a cut off wheel and cut a notch in the old bearing just before it touches the steering knuckle in two places and drove a chisel between the two but your idea is better.So the next I will try it.

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Nice! These things can be brutal, so it’s nice to have more than one trick up your sleeve!

[@Richard5873]

What size length bolts should I use for my 2015 Ford Explorer rear wheel bearing?

[@jeffu3248]

Wow! Living here in here in one of those rust belt states and yes. Hammering away and you make get lucky with those rusty bearings. This video is a life saver because I was looking at all types of tools to remove stuck hub bearings. About to pick up some nuts and bolts now to try this out. Will report back soon 🤞🏽

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

I hope it helped!

[@nancymarlow2900]

WOW Working on a 2012 Ford Explorer right now you make it look so easy Thank you for the tip I've been working on the right rear wheel bearing for 2 1/2 hours and it hasn't budged will try This

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

This has honestly made it easy. Results exactly as shown. I hope it helps!

[@roguebullet4220]

Thank you sir, this video is a 💎

[@floyd5292]

This is amazing!! Thank you 😊.

[@diydantex6150]

Thanks

[@victorlopez2143]

good to know---Thanks

[@thebunz7]

Pb blaster, propane torch and a sledge or extremely long pry bar 6' plus.

[@reganswan6727]

Thank you for your video

[@xenawolf]

Hardened steel bolts may not break and always tighten or loosen the the nut, not the bolt.

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Good points! Thanks for sharing!

[@iviaverick52]

I got my hub off, but the CV axle is siezed inside of the hub as well. What do?

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

You can try to hammer it out. Do not hammer directly on the end of the axle, it’ll mushroom the end and you won’t be able to thread the nut on. Thread a nut halfway on and hit that. I also recommend a block of wood. Or you can use a bearing puller. I had one that absolutely would not come off, and I ended up purchasing a new axle. It was totally worth the extra $70 to be done with it and move on.

[@ModernNeandertal]

Nice video.

[@ultramanxk7]

👍

[@attila7092]

This wasn't the problem I ran into. Got the bearing off using the hammer after about 10 minutes. The problem was the jerks online sent me a part that didn't fit. Seriously pissed off

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

I’ve been there. It definitely sucks! Especially when you don’t have another vehicle available to go get a replacement part!

[@genemaverick5705]

Just replace this whole thing , knuckle and all , easy peasy !! Lol

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

No kidding. That’s what it feels like it’s going to come to sometimes. I did replace the CV axle one time because it would not come out of the bearing. I was more than happy to buy a new one to finish the nightmare job.

[@dustinsavage204]

Literally just spent about 8 hours trying a 3lb sledge, air hammer, crow bar, and heat gun trying to get a seized hub off my 08 silverado. Found 2 bolts, washers, and nuts, used old sockets for spacers, less than an hour later, new hub is in and everything is back together!!

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Awesome! That’s great to hear! Glad you got it handled!

[@scottcampbell4678]

Now, I am jealous

[@Jazzydaze]

DUDES!! The 3 bolts that go into the hub from behind ...2 out, 1 WILL NOT MOVE. Tried heat, hammers, penetrate... ideas?

[@dustinsavage204]

@@Jazzydaze I’d put a 6 point socket on it with a power handle. 12 point rounds the bolts off on stuck bolts easily. It’ll either brake loose, or brake the head off.

[@plymouthsuperbee1707]

Thats loterally where im at right now, fml

[@wty1313]

For anyone trying this method. The issue is that "standard" bolts you get at the store (like the ones in this video) are only grade 2. Grade 2 bolts have a yield strength of 57,000 psi and tensile strength of 74,000 psi at 1/2 inch. It is far better to use AT LEAST grade 5 bolts (92,000 yield / 120,000 tensile) and even better, use grade 8 bolts (130,000 yield / 150,000 tensile).

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Definitely, thanks for sharing! I was focused on using random nuts and bolts that I already had and overlooked pointing that out.

[@tritanium1]

Sheared off the head of a supposed grade 8 bolt. The other bent. But in spite of this, this technique worked for me!

[@omarjordan7431]

​@@HowtoandReviewsOfficialq++q a no

[@worldman7188]

Not only should you use grade 8 bolts but also a fine thread of at least 18. Course threads have stripped out trying this.

[@mikejohnson9118]

The Grade 8 "Black Oxide" bolts should be strong enough to do the job.

[@timstone3441]

Learned this trick a while back. Couple of add ons that make this work better.. Use 8 grade harder bolts and nuts. You don’t break them as easily. Lightly grease the threads on the bolts as this make the cranking easier. And the best additional trick is to use an electric impact bumping it and going back a forth between bolts. BTW I will do the spacers as that is my next trick to add..

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Excellent tips! Thanks for sharing!

[@timothyreed7238]

I’m doing the same truck I’m so tired today🤦🏽

[@jafinch78]

Good deal, I was thinking the same. Was also thinking wire wheel cleaning up the mating surface and use some anti seize to maybe help make easier in the future. Especially if you're in salty road country.

[@consciousobjector2507]

​@@timothyreed7238How did it go? Any tips?

[@JimLambier]

One of the longest jobs that I had to do was replacing a hub bearing. Like you said, most videos make it sound like the part will just fall off once the bolts are removed. I tried gallons of penetrant (multiple brands), heat, sledge hammers, rented slide hammers and even enlisted my teenager and his friends. No luck. I eventually tried something similar to what you suggested and they popped off incredibly easily. The only thing I would add is to try using 3 bolts if possible. I found I made the job easier. Also use anti-seize on the new parts mating surface. It will make the next time so much easier!

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

I’ve been it that exact situation more than once. I know the pain. This has worked for me every time I’ve tried it.

[@parrisprice5892]

A WHEEL PULLER tool will also work

[@Reytose1]

​@@parrisprice5892 depends on how bad its seized. If its really in there a wheel puller will do just as good as a slide hammer, which is not much of anything

[@tolow16]

This legit saved my life today. Was doing a 2012 F150 front wheel hub/bearing damn thing wouldn't budge for nothing in the world after 2-3 hours of using a Sledge hammer, Air hammer, and slide pully was ready to bite the bullet and take the knuckle off to have it pressed out somewhere but also didn't wanna risk damaging any ball joints or tie rods and making another issue to fix. Saw this video, went into my tool box and found some bolts and nuts and did the same process as you. The most satisfying noise in the world when you hear loud crack of the bearing as it starts to walk itself out. Got in out in less than 5 mins. Thanks so much.

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Awesome! Glad to hear it! I’ve definitely been there before I know exactly how you feel. Thanks for sharing!

[@MrLuanDo]

Man, my 2012 F150 rear-wheel-drive is having the same problem with the front bearing hubs. Driver side was doable with a hammer. Passenger side is not budging. I had the same idea but got so tired and stopped. I'll get a bigger bolt and longer tools for better leverage.

[@stevanrose7439]

For something to push against try using a old brake pad. The metal is strong and they are light enough to be easy to work with. 👍. Get er done.

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Nice! Thanks for sharing!

[@clasko2]

Great method! Use a hardened steel bolt, washer, and nut to avoid shearing!

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Great point! Grade 8 bolts would reduce or eliminate the shearing issue. Thanks for sharing.

[@kentbarger8628]

I'm a retired mechanic his method works I have some additional ideas that will help you also PB Blaster it's really well on rusted bolts also when I reinstall the hub assembly always put anti-seize on the surface area of the Hub this way if you ever have to replace it it will not be difficult to take out the Hub assembly also look up the torque specifications for your particular car do not over torque the nuts on the assembly and I put it on the shaft the anti-seize hope this information will help you

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Thanks for sharing! It’s appreciated!

[@jeffu3248]

Yes. I use anti-seize often. It's a life saver especially for things like this

[@buddyboy4x44]

Done this job a few times and, you are right, most instructions just say pull off the bearing but don't say how hard it is and how to get around it. Excellent video.

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

I would always plan these jobs when I didn’t need my vehicle for a day or two just in case, because they can seem impossible to get out. This method has worked awesome for me. They come right out.

[@benruss4130]

mine alway just slide off lol. But then again there isnt a fleck of rust on my 1003 honda accord because New Mexico is nice to cars. My only problem is rubber rot.

[@stevegutermuth191]

Thanks so much for this video!! My 2013 Malibu has always been in NC(travel up North to snow country occasionally though). The wheel bearing hub wasnt coming off like the other guy's KZbin showed, he did say it was great living in SW though, no rust. I thought maybe there was a bolt I hadn't removed but his video said only 3 bolts which were removed. After trying a few things I finally went to ACE and bought (3) 1/2" x 3" bolts, (6) washers, (6) nuts and tried what you said. It was still a struggle moving the wrenches but it creaked n groaned a few times and FINALLY came off. BTW, loved your laughing video, that really emphaaized how ludicrous it is to expect the hub to just come off :), very entertaining. Thanks again.

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Thanks for taking the time to write the detailed comment. I appreciate it! Glad this was helpful and entertaining! Thanks for sharing!

[@roncruz5110]

I don’t normally leave comments but in this case I had to. I was changing the right front hub on a 05 Aviator and after over 6 hours of banging I was about to give up when I saw this video. It took me longer to drive to Lowe’s and get the bolts than it did to remove the hub with your method. FANTASTIC!!

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

I’ve definitely been in that situation more than once. I’m glad it helped, and thanks for leaving an update! It means a lot. That’s exactly why I make these videos, to hopefully help someone out!

[@jjsoundguy]

Absolutely brilliant. This is exactly what I need to do. My bearing is rust-welded to the knuckle. Thank you for this knowledge.

[@consciousobjector2507]

How did it go? Any tips?

[@johnogden5]

Your bolt trick was the solution we needed. Nothing else we tried worked. We did use 3 hardened bolts with spacers for the removal. That allowed us to quickly distribute the load as we were pulling it off. We were working on a 2012 Ford Flex. The galvanic corrosion between the aluminum knuckle and the steel bearing is terrible here in Michigan. Thank you.

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Nice! Glad it worked! Thanks for the update!

[@greggraham8074]

Been doing this for years, always thought I should make a video of it as I haven't seen this on KZbin before, only videos similar to what you describe in the beginning. Great job, great video, hopefully this gets around to everyone, makes it so much easier. Thank you for sharing.

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Thanks for the comment, I appreciate it. I first did this about 8 years ago. It’s a life saver. I started this KZbin channel about 2.5 years ago and was happy when I got an opportunity to film it and post a video. The whole point of starting this channel is to help people out! Glad to see it’s getting some views.

[@tritanium1]

This definitely works! After hammering on the hub for two hours with a sledge, went down to the local hardware store, bought the hardware, and boom! Had it off in about 20 minutes! Real life saver here! Also, have to appreciate the other tutorial videos that conveniently skip the banging and cussing parts!

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

That’s great to hear! Glad it helped!

[@lard1892]

Obviously this only works on certain vehicles. You haven't worked on very many Acuras.

[@crewchiefification]

BRO!! 10 MIN OR LESS. YOU ARE THE MAN!! THANK YOU!! NOT EVEN KIDDING!!

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Awesome! So glad it helped! Thanks for the update!

[@aerick711]

I love you..... I tried like 2 other videos and like 5 other things. I took my front bearing off completely and took a hammer to it the first time, but I had to also replace the 2 wheel bearings in the back. Thats when i stumbled on your video... In 90 degree heat... i almost died then your video saved me. Thank you

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Awesome! I’ve definitely been there. Glad it was helpful!

[@nomad-1776]

I'm due to replace my wheel bearings on my car. I've seen so many videos of people struggling and it's a little discouraging. However, after seeing your method, I'm feeling a little more confident. I don't have any tools yet and I'll have to buy some, but I'll give it a go - it's better than paying the mechanic $1500 to replace both front bearings.

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Purchasing your own tools is definitely a better investment and the experience is priceless. It will definitely still take some effort, but you can do it! I hope it goes well!

[@scottcampbell4678]

$1500 to change two wheel bearings? That is $750 an hour. That is nuts.

[@illuminatedsoles331]

I just had to go through this and it was hell. As someone above mentioned, sourcing a used knuckle can save a lot of time/energy. Good luck!

[@jonowens460]

​@@scottcampbell4678 that is Loud as F@#@$ price😮 yhey can be a mother though but over a grand...damn😢

[@consciousobjector2507]

How did it go?

[@mrcokez1]

im in the rust belt too, whenever i have to do a wheel bearing job i mentally prepare myself for a wrestling match and have a recovery beer right after

[@jakeromano622]

I spent 2 days fighting my wheel hubs and this was the only thing that would work. Thank you!

[@Pos-Vibe]

Just did mine same way

[@XxcfirecraftxX]

Just thought about a tip, if you're going too knock out your wheel studs just use said stud and your lug nut in place of the pusher bolt, which brings this methods price down too 0$ unless you break a lug somehow. Of course this would only work with open ended lugs, and you'd have too hold the end of the stud with a pair of vice grips, or something along those lines, if it didn't have a head. But since you're probably going too replace the hub itself anyways it's not like you have to much too lose.

[@michaelotto8696]

Could have used this many years ago when I did battle with my first hub. Best part of a day of hammering along with what I call "vocabulary building" and not in a good way. Tip 'o the hat for sharing this valuable trick!

[@andrasharp6217]

If possible put the bolts in from the back so that the head is against the backplate and the nut is against the wheel flange, then turn the nut. Use 8.8 metric bolt.

[@scottcampbell4678]

I suggest rotating the nut. If you rotate the bolt, you take the chance of having the end of the bolt move. This could damage the knuckle surface. If you turn the nut, this is less likely. Also , if you turn the nut, you could use a nut on the end of the bolt to spread out the pressure. Other than that, I really want to try your method.

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

I have done it that way as well. There are a couple was to do it.

[@consciousobjector2507]

Good points, thanks!

[@andyp9747]

SWEET JESUS! It worked! Came off in less than 5 minutes! I LOVE YOU MAN!

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Awesome! That’s great news! Thanks for the update!

[@austinhernandez2716]

I'm so glad it doesn't snow here. I can't imagine dealing with all that rust

[@mml1224]

great job! half inch bolt info was key, so you dont have to press in new bearings, just buy new hubs/bearins installed already is what i'll need? i have 15 camry............thank you sir!

[@travissheehan6082]

Only 1 of the 8 I’ve done didn’t just pull off. I pressed it off with a bolt and it separated, still stuck on lol. Air hammer finally worked.

[@scottyo3664]

Was I the only one that thought..... The bolt is going to snap before it happened? 😅😂🤣

[@BlueWoolSweater]

I just used this method to loosen the bearing and used a sledge to get it fully separated. Thank you!

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Awesome, glad it helped!

[@Titilomelirifa]

What do I do if my hub and rest of the bearing separated into two pieces

[@stevofromiowa]

At that point you have to either chisel or cut the rest off. With everything else gone, you can heat it with a torch as well.

[@zatoichibandit]

where was this last week when i needed it?!?!? thanks you tube.

[@seriously3130]

I knew this but kinda forgot. So thanks for refreshing my antique memory brother! Really appreciate it a lot.. I now remember I had them break off before too and found that 1/2" grade 8 bolts saved that issue. Have a blessed day!

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Nice! Glad it helped!

[@josephtrunk3565]

Very helpful , thanks for sharing.

[@minayowitz3268]

Definitely a simple and effective method. Thank you very much for sharing this tip.

[@edwardmccutchen8554]

You,'re the man! who would 've thought of the push bolt-method? I think I've just made myself A SELF PROCLAIMED WHEEL BEARING-MECHANIC!!!

[@stevesikora]

Thanks for the helpful video. This weekend I changed the right front bearing hub on a 2006 Volvo S40 in my driveway. I first tried to remove it with a homemade slide hammer, attached to the wheel bolts, but after 20 minutes of hammering, it didn't move at all. I then removed some of the wheel bolts from the hub by pounding them out through the back. Using 1/2" bolts from Home Depot, I then used this bolt trick along with a pneumatic impact hammer. The hard part was finding a place on the steering knuckle where the bolts wouldn't slip when torqueing them. There's not much space on the Volvo. After some time, the hub began to slowly come out but it was hard work. Less than 1/2" distance after a couple of hours. Then 2 of the bolts seized up and had to be cut-off. I then went back to H-D for some more bolts and some other pieces of metal, which I used to help the bolts jam into the knuckle better. The rest of the removal went better but still took another hour or so. I then installed the new hub the next day, using a 5/8" threaded rod and nuts, which went down the middle of the hub, along with some homemade steel plates and some washers on the front of the hub and on the back of the knuckle, to provide support and counter-force. I then screwed the rod with the impact hammer, which slowly pushed the hub all the way into the knuckle. Next time, I think it would be a lot easier to just remove the entire steering knuckle along with the hub and then bring it to a place with a hydraulic press to have it removed and re-installed.

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Glad you got through it, nice job! But yes, removing the steering knuckle may still be the easier option for that job.

[@paulstandaert5709]

The slide hammer often doesn't work because the hammering is "cushioned" by the balls rolling on the inner race as the bearing is forced laterally. Kinda like kicking a ball and it rolls half way up the hill, and then back down. And in some cases, the spindle just comes out, leaving the hub in the knuckle.

[@vincentlee2460]

You need to pound really hard, the screw nut method holds the force and awaits the next higher force with the next turn on the bolt. Each successive turn keeps increasing the pushing force till the hub gives up. The sliding hammer cant do that, but if you pound it hard enough with the right force of separation, it will work

[@crazyDIYguy]

This just separated the inside of the hub and bearing, The mating surface is still there. I can't believe it. F*#k 🤦

[@flyonbyya]

When installing the new bearing…I coat the bearing with lots of never seize compound

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Thanks for the tip! I also do this!

[@ridgerunner3364]

If you use anti seize when putting in new bearings they will come out very easy the next time!

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

I used to use bearing grease, but have been using anti-seize for the last couple years.

[@cluelesssam6975]

I'am going to give you one million thumbs up for this awesome tip.. Thanks

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Thanks! Glad it was helpful!

[@CarlosGomez-fl6xz]

Good Idea Una buena idea . I try in my 2003 Honda Element Yo lo intente con mi Honda Element 2003 . I use screw Grade 8 Yo use tornillos grado 8 . And now big problem Y ahora un gran problema . Hub stay in the knuckle and the screw is damaged the thread and I can not remove the nut La masa sigue sin salir y se transrosco la tuerca y no la puedo sacar. . Definitely is not my day Definitivamente no es mi dia

[@tracemiller1519]

This is how I got my rotor off yesterday but the bearing is almost impossible to get off that way, I’m screwed!

[@matthewrichard6011]

Tried this one my 2017 aubaru legacy, only part of the hub started coming off (stub side and the insides)

[@weslee4469]

1/2" grade 8 bolts will do it. Spending 100 bucks on a slide hammer kit will make this job a 5 minute affair. Then you dont have to worry about bolt diameter, bolt placement, pressing out wheel studs to have to press them back in. Slide hammer kit with the hub puller foot will fit any hub. Ive had to use a torch a few times around the knuckle before 3 to 5 hard slides on the hammer but literally a 5 minute job. Sometimes spending 100 bucks on a basic tool kit is worth the time fucking around with nonsense. This is a great trick as well though.

[@Krispy1011]

This works but not always - One thing is to always use grade 8 bolts and nuts as they will not break as easily as the cheaper grade 2 bolts! grade 5 bolts might even work too!

[@twilliamsusmc]

I used a gear puller along with heat snd BUSTER LOOSE spray. Applied pressure, received pressure and rotate and repeat. Than when it goes, CRACK, you’re home dree

[@cyrysvonnachtseite4546]

My Chevy truck front bearings rusted on. Penetrant oil. A torch and the thru bolt method Grade 8-12….…. Came off after a bit of persuading….. dust shields …. Replace them anyways. Relatively inexpensive

[@joeyoungs8426]

All because of that crap ass design of the exposed tone ring. Terrible design. When I replaced mine I used Syl-Glide and smeared it on the tone ring making sure it got in the groove around the ID and OD of the ring. That was easily several years ago and before that I was replacing them every few years. I also smear it all around the pilot hole of the steering knuckle after cleaning it up. Makes removal a breeze the next time if needed.

[@BV-Auto]

Damn I wish I would have watched this before I paid the Mexican....

[@odelkuk]

Nice - could notice to remove the 3 bolt holding the bearing to the car before doing the trick

[@joshuagriffin6449]

Anybody got any advice on how to do this without the wheel bearing in?? My slide hammer only took out the bearing and left the hub assembly on and I am having a terrible Time. 😭

[@reverseuniverse2559]

Very helpful I’ve been surfing KZbin everywhere with no help, this was very straightforward 👍

[@nickaa827]

one worthy alternative is a slide hammer with hub puller attachment, rental from O'Reilly's or autozone, return for all your money back

[@timsterkhim653]

Worked like a charm👍 Thanks you for sharing😀

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

That’s great to hear! Glad it helped!

[@671-u6c]

Thanks for sharing, can you show to remove rear on a 05 honda crv or something similar? Because other site shows using press. Thank you in advance ☺

[@CharlesLease-ei1ee]

I’ve seen them so bad that bolt trick will not work. You literally have to cut them out. Get you some grade 8 bolts, because regular bolts the ones I have come across those bolts that bent in the threads ripped out.

[@EpaphroditusBeltishazzar]

I just removed 3 rotors using this method and didn't even consider it as a possibility for the bearing 🤦‍♂️

[@condoguy810]

Thanks for the very useful information. This method you show in your video is the only way I could remove my wheel bearing and it worked perfectly. Two thumbs up

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Awesome! Glad it helped!

[@fabio40]

If you use hardened bolts and nuts (grade 8) they won't snap off, therefore allowing you to use a smaller size bolt.

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Thanks for sharing, I appreciate it. I wish I would have thought to mention that. I just used bolts that I already had laying around.

[@th-cc6ei]

I've snapped grade 8 bolts dozens of times. They are not as strong as people think. What really helps is using an impact gun instead of wrenches and ratchets.

[@michaelkornele]

I'm in oklahoma. Get a mix of cars from the south and north. I hit it the times with the hammer. Then this is basically how I get them out.

[@paulhealey2984]

Yup, penetrating oil doesn't work.! We've all been duped.

[@CharlesLease-ei1ee]

Air hammers liquid ranch grinder, cutting them out slide hammer buster in your head wide-open settling an oxygen

[@spinmyhead1667]

Or you could buy a puller kit and damage nothing, achieving the same result.

[@frankmolina2076]

My bearing back plate does not have holes in it to put bolts in. So this is useless if you have like i have.

[@kevstamc3676]

My problem isn't getting it off..its getting the new one back on, just does not want to play game what so ever

[@ExtremeRecluse]

Enlarge one stud hole to over 5/8 inch. Buy a 5/8 inch hardened bolt and then do this.

[@afizz27]

If anyone can help…. I tried this and the bearing came apart and half of it is still attached to the car… HELP!!!

[@Presence_of_Mind_]

Definitely would have to use some hardened nuts and bolts if you had to take a stud out, chances are you're not gonna get a 1/2 inch bolt through the stud hole. Good video, I tried doing a hub replacement really quick last night on my wife's car think "pff it'll be quick and easy I'll get it done and be in bed on time for work tomorrow morning" boy was I wrong lol

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Good point with the hardened bolts. I usually plan to have a couple days free with nothing important scheduled so I’m not in a position where I’m without a car if something goes wrong.

[@randypond7499]

Can the lug nut studs be re-used

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

@@randypond7499 I personally would not recommend it. The new wheel bearing hub assembly will have new Lugnut studs included. But if you really needed a loose lug nut stud for some reason, they are about three dollars brand new.

[@wade6126]

The best way in taking wheel bearing assembly out so far ! Awesome !!! Thanks !

[@240sxincanada6]

Best trick ever , spent hours on my bearing last night and within 5 min with your trick the bearing is out !! Wow thanks a lot !!!! 🎉

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

That’s great to hear! Glad it made it easy!

[@nolanrice]

I just tried it and it literally pulled my wheel bearing the apart on my 2000 f150

[@sergiotisnado545]

If possible, buy the automotive-grade hardened bolt and nut, and again if possible get the fine thread (which are stronger than coarse). I think these are grade 8 (or higher). Doing this will allow for more torque without breaking, omparised to standard-use hardware (which I think is only about grade 5). Also, hang on to your old bearing race(s) that are perfect for pressing in the new bearing because it has the perfect OD and will push ONLY on the outer race on the new bearing. DO NOT push on the inner race of the new bearing when fitting it-- will lead to premature wear.

[@HowtoandReviewsOfficial]

Absolutely! Thanks for sharing!