P2646 Honda VTEC Fixed "Do This First"

How to fix Honda code P2646 VTEC for free. You're going to want to try and clean the screens for the spool valve the VTEC valve and one other screen on the front of the motor.
If you get a p2626 you going to want to try these free fixes before replacing and part.
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[@Gilboy64]

I have a fixed many P 2646 Hondas Start with clean oil and a good filter, secondly I clean and inspect connectors if any corrosion or cracking, I replace both connectors. That solves 90% of the P 2646 third, clean solenoid valve, never replace solenoid valve with aftermarket!

[@filthycade2399]

Could u please tell me which connectors need to be checked? Im desperate

[@filthycade2399]

Is it connector to the actuator?

[@yungkyle1497]

Mine worked with just an oil change and filter thank you this was helpful

[@Pewtuber556]

@@yungkyle1497what oil and filter did you go with?

[@garyfontenot2786]

I agree with not using aftermarket. I get my oil and filter from Honda, which is usually less than aftermarket. I also check NAPA's Altrom line for Honda solenoids and actuators, which usually come in a Honda box.

[@petersherrouse33]

Thanky-Thanky (Gomer Pyle style ;-) Pulled the valve out and found the screen very plugged. Pro tips 1) They will be tight, best to use a six point socket with a little extension 2) I suggest having a new gasket on hand As mine had splits, It is complex "o-ring" type gasket but local parts places had them. The gasket has a grove in it into which the screen slips. IMO you don't need to undo the wires, just remove the three 6mm screws (10mm socket) and then pull the vale up high enough to service the screen. I used a can of brake parts cleaner with its straw. 3) have a mirror on hand to clean and inspect the mounting surface on back of the head 4) when installing, put the bottom screw into the valve and lower it down with your right hand, reach around the end of the engine with your left, find the lower screw hole and guide the screw in the valve into it. If I had had all the tools , cleaner together and a fresh gasket, it could be done in 5 minutes. My issue was the thing going into limp mode (limit to 3krpm) Cleaning screen and flush out valve made a small improvement but, sad to say, replaced valve with new one from Amazon wound up making if worse. If I understand the oil flow, it seems the grit in the screen is due to crud getting past the oil filter (bypassing due to old, cheap, small filter) and worse It looks to me the same grit would be going to the bearings. This tells me that they are probably in bad shape and that that would cause generally low engine oil pressure ( I should check that next) . Perhaps pulling the pan and replacing the bearings could get the oil pressure up enough to get some more miles out if it. I suggest ALWAYS put in a high-quality long millage filter so it doesn’t bypass. When I got the car it looked like to oil had about 30k miles on the oil change :-\

[@dariusx4829]

Awesome advice! Thanks 👍🏾💯

[@montealexx]

Thanks for the video. Helped out a lot

[@sneekdawg174]

Bro I didn’t even know bout the screen infront of the head! Very good info and yes I subscribed!

[@justingoers]

Is this easy to clean?

[@puralumbre]

I neeed this done asap 😅

[@Victor-tm2kl]

Mine was because super low oil 😭 glad i listened to my check engine and pulled over

[@mattfoley6082]

Excellent description from NAPA: The variable valve timing oil pressure switch is a normally open switch located at the VVT solenoid. When the VTEC oil pressure switch closes, the voltage should drop to zero. This is how the PCM knows if oil pressure was applied to the VTEC system. When this system fails to operate properly the ECM may set a code. The codes associated with this are P1253 (21) for the solenoid and P1259 (22) for the pressure switch. Each code requires further diagnosis prior to condemning the solenoid or the VTEC oil pressure switch. If you do not maintain your car, the screen in the VTEC solenoid can become plugged. The pressure switch won’t pick the problem up because it is located before the screen. The VTEC kicks in, but oil pressure never gets to the rocker shaft. If you unplug the solenoid and there is no difference in engine power, check the filter first.

[@mandym7001]

I appreciate what you did here, but as a newly single, broke, mom, I would so appreciate it if you took this to the "for single mom's" level. (I'd say "for dummies," but it's just a matter of no experience.) When you talk about cleaning the screens, with what? Soap & water, gasoline, Brake Clean, witch craft?When you talk about testing, I've no idea, a scantron, fill in the blank or of with what, to what or how? Thank you so much for indulging my mommy madness.

[@mattfoley6082]

I carelessly let my oil get low. I change it religiously but went a few months without checking oil level. Got the engine light and went into limp mode. Changed my oil and filter and she ran great...for 5 miles then again went into limp mode. Removed spool valve assembly. Screen is clean! Spool valve moves when pushed by hand. Hmm, so why did I lose VTEC again? From reading about VTEC the pressure switch doesn't affect VTEC per se, it just reports when VTEC is on or off. But the solenoid that moves the spool valve is what makes VTEC go on or off. So I wonder if the solenoid itself ever goes bad and if it can be replaced, rather than replacing the entire spool valve assembly. My Honda dealer is out of stock of the OEM spool valve assembly. I'm wary of aftermarket parts that sell for 1/2 price, I keep reading that they leak soon after installation.

[@brucewilliams2106]

It's almost always water in the connectors. when you open the Element hood wet, water runs right down into the connectors. trust me. dry out and seal the connectors first. it almost always works.

[@filthycade2399]

Could u please tell me which connectors are these?

[@brucewilliams2106]

@@filthycade2399 when you open the element hood the water runs right into the connector. the wire insulation often cracks at the base and then get wet and short out

[@Kevnadian]

​@@filthycade2399 the plug that connects into your oil pressure sensor.

[@justingoers]

@@Kevnadian can you tell me where that sensor is or link to a diagram?

[@infonut]

Where is the the picture of the screen located behind the power steering pump. What is that part name/number?

[@Jebusite100]

I changed my oil, and the check engine light goes off after driving about 40-50 miles.

[@ezekielj20]

My car turns on oil light on normal drive mode when parked . I changed oil pump and oil pressure sensor and then I tried to drive and then the code p2646 triggered what is wrong guys. I’m so frustrated for this engjne

[@RoxanneRatthe-jm3mc]

Ok but how do you get the bottom bolt out to check the screen without removing the tensioner and power steering pump??

[@SLOTGUY]

You cant

[@user-sf5ub5xi3c]

I do it all the time. Not easy, but as long as you have some finger dexterity it’s not much more difficult than removing the motor mount nuts and jacking up the engine to support it. I use a combination of sockets: long reach, regular with 1”/2” extensions, and a universal. I use a 3/8” ratchet, my fingers, and once even a DeWalt 3/8” side angle adapter (but I’ve done it without that too). The slow deliberate procedure makes it a PITA, but I’ve done it about 7 times. We’re talking about that one out-of-sight bolt on the alternator, right? Oh, BTW I usually also remove the tensioner in addition to the alternator.

[@saldanajr43]

Can oil pressure sensor cause this code too?

[@mattjames9174]

Will the engine light turn off on its own, or must the code be cleared? Just cleaned the screens on mine...

[@mattfoley6082]

Engine light will turn off on its own, could take a few miles.

[@idrumlikecrazy9802]

I have an 07 CR-V with this code. Recent cylinder head work (it was milled at a shop after overheating due to head gasket failure). Got the code probably 80 miles after getting the car back. My Honda guy wanted to start with an oil change and genuine filter. Code came back pretty quick. He’s saying VTEC system tests all passed and suspects main bearing wear?! Said to do main and rod bearings which I’ve never heard of with this code.. any advice?

[@idrumlikecrazy9802]

@@justinralphio8494 Thank you so much for your reply. This is great information. So do you think it’s reasonable to do the main bearing repair or should I suggest this bypass like you’re talking about? How many hours of labor roughly would I expect to pay for the bearing job? If that’s a decent improvement for the engine, I wouldn’t mind doing it because I do like the car and I got it for free. Mine is Japan built if that makes a difference. Thanks again!

[@adventurekid9242]

​@@justinralphio8494 Thank you for this advice. This oil pressure switch, where is it in relation to the spool valve?? I am very good electrically and complex systems wise . I would like to do the by pass the pressure switch procedure. Question, is the pressure switch a two wire NO or Normally Open switch??

[@metzmatu8409]

​@@adventurekid9242 02:55 pressure switch is next to the solenoid on top of the spool valve assy

[@devenp2069]

​@@justinralphio8494Can't wait to try bypassing the VTEC. I have 2006 Odyssey with 205K miles. Just got the valves calibrated which resolved misfire codes. Also, replaced VTEC solenoid gasket Now with P2646 code, goes into limp mode around 60mph. Will try cleaning VTEC solenoid first. If it doesn't work, will try your fix in bypassing it. Much appreciated!

[@richardstromquist1]

​@@justinralphio8494 would you be able to provide pictures of how to do this😅

[@LionsTigersBears]

Anyone ever tried motor flushing the engine prior to oil change?? Also clean out screen port with carb clean and the electrical plug with electrical contact cleaner???😊😊😊

[@maximuskhann5318]

Is it same with k20 engine?

[@thomascoulson9945]

I Would look first but yes should be very similar

[@vixenfatale4839]

So I'm better off taking my car to a Mechanic because idk how I would even get to the parts. I have a 2007 Honda Accord with over 238,000 miles on her. We have replaced 1 O2 sensor power steering pump starter and the heater valve with heater hose. I have codes for another O2 sensor the Catalytic Converter a Rocker Arm and a Knox Sensor. I'm trying to do my best to take care of the car but I seem to be failing.

[@fnbrhub8039]

I have the same codes! Did you find a fix?

[@Sythorize]

@@fnbrhub8039same codes as well did you find a fix?

[@BigGwuap]

my car has this code and it stutters when i accelerate i have my oil and engine light on this happened after i ran out of fuel what could it be

[@mitchellbye8759]

Did you fix it.. Mine is doing the exact same thing. After I ran outta gas.. Plz help

[@mattfoley6082]

Did you check that your gas cap is tight? Loose cap will cause check engine light.

[@pleasecheese803]

U didn't say what to do about the one behind the power steering pump

[@lewis2553]

This video is outdated if you have a 2006 Pilot with the J35Z1 V6 engine. This engine will have an oil pressure sensor which contains a potentiometer, and, therefore will have 3 pins in the connector. This is NOT a switch. If you go to the parts house, and they want you to prepay for them to order it, be aware that what arrives may not be correct. Make them show you the specs and photo before you order, if possible. And verify that it has 3 pins. The J35A9 engine WILL have a switch, with just 2 pins in the connector.

[@internetpointsbank]

this video is for a entirely different engine.

[@lewis2553]

@@internetpointsbank That figures. They're hardly ever for the one the average guy has.

[@BrandonSalas-us8mm]

Eyy that’s my car but my shit ain’t sluggish mines a 5 speed tire slayer with stage 2 clutch every thing else stock😂

[@64arguz]

Oil clean, engine clean, filterSSS CLEAN , oil switch from dealer , still the same problem, I have replaced probably 10 times the switch and nothing, the switch function is to cut the ground that goes to the computer. Such thing is achieved with pressure oil , oil enter to the switch and separate two electrical contact inside of the switch , computer interpret this as a signal to activate the vtec mechanism☹️

[@jeffwalsh4725]

I'm having the dame issue.

[@Carlos829331]

I did all that and still the rpm wrong go higher then 3

[@k24cord]

Have you got it fixed yet?

[@jarana10]

Did you got it fixed? I heard that if that doesn’t help then it needs the whole new assembly

[@k24cord]

@@jarana10 oil change did the trick

[@johnlucier5654]

​@@jarana10before spending money on parts test them by applying 12volts. You dont want to spend $250-500 for parts on the hope you might fix it after the last hope thing didnt work. The parts can be tested.

[@NegroOpsBoy2]

@@k24cord Really ?? So all I need is an oil change ??

[@petergross8808]

Stupid Honda, designed by monkeys. Some Vtec oil pressure sensor mounted under hood straight up so the connector acts like a cup. "Let's put a yazaki connector mounted like a cup in a wet location with high thermal cycling", idiots. Code P2646 pops up and dealer recommends you change out the whole assembly for over $350 in parts. I unplugged the sensor, saw the water in there, blew it out with compressed air, let it dry, loaded it up with dielectric grease, cleared the code and it seems to work fine. Now let's see how long that will last.

[@Jose-zg7ft]

Like u can do better😱

[@petergross8808]

@@Jose-zg7ft I do. I design electrical systems for Mack truck

[@Jose-zg7ft]

@@petergross8808 i respect it, but these people who design the engine are engineers they are bright

[@petergross8808]

As an Electrical engineer with over 30 years of automotive design experience, I recognize a rookie mistake like this that was discovered too late in the design process for them to retool the part and correct it so they made the choice to run with it. IMHO that was a bad choice considering it is such a popular fix but my fix only lasted three weeks and I ended up replacing the VVT with a unit from RockAuto. I have helped and been helped by German and Japanese engineers but am still known by technicians as that friggen engineer who thought that up. We all do our best but stupid stuff slips by us. This design is one of them.@@Jose-zg7ft

[@HitsInSandbox]

@@Jose-zg7ft Not all engineers are perceived as highly intelligent, but in the late 1990s, Ford faced a significant challenge with their Triton Engines. The issue arose between the assembly line and shipping to the USA Truck plant, with about 0.5% of engines experiencing a connector problem only after installation. Despite lasting for a decade, over 100 engineers were unable to find a solution. One day, a new employee, initially working on the production line, was informed of the problem. Within 48 hours, he successfully resolved the issue that had baffled numerous engineers over the years. This individual has since departed from Ford and is now anonymously uncovering flaws in US defense systems and suggesting new designs, including wanting to expose flaws with even the Next Generation Air Dominance System (NGADS). He believes that until the US government and Department of Defense acknowledge the cognitive limitations and error-prone nature of the human brain concerning redundancy, complacency, and adaptability, they will face ongoing mistakes and risk losing their decades-long technological advantage. Interestingly, this individual also created an in-house software system around 2001 that featured elements similar to Skype and NetMeeting years before their existence, and included innovative features for online car purchases in the software over the network. At present, he is also working on developing some new high-output space propulsion system for orbit that has bewildered the scientific community due to its simplicity, overlooking aspects such as Fibonacci sequences, cosmic voids, and other space-specific elements that exist beyond Earth's realm.

[@jcruzgonzalez8721]

I mis where you test them!