How To Install Door Trim: Beginner to Level 10 Pro!

[@thomaswayneward]

Been a carpenter for over fifty years and this is the first video that shows exactly how I do it. I even learned one new thing. Thanks. Your explanation skills are very good.

[@ropro9817]

Damn you and your 'check out this video, right over here' outros. I've now binge watched 10 of The Funny Carpenter's videos and on my way to number 11. 😂

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Well that is awesome! Thank You

[@rockfosg]

One more tip☝️ We get all our trim precut, some with miters already done, top part fit as is, sides are a bit to long, 2" or so.. So you set your top part where it should be. And the sides you turn upside down, putting the miter point to the floor, then you mark the top of your top piece on that side piece and cut it 90°. Turn it around and nail it in place. That way you have taken the 2 out of 3 measuring steps out of the equation 🎉

[@ggrimm79]

You're probably the experienced tradesman on KZbin who's the best at not taking the little steps for granted. Great job.

[@Aldorains]

Nice work. I work on a production trim crew. Mostly new construction. Speed is crucial but we have to do nice work. Our system for doors is based on the door slabs and jambs being identical for a given size. They almost always are. We cut all the casing to the same dimensions. We gang cut the straight ends if it's MDF, probably 6 at a time. All miters are cut individually. Often we'll put a slight bit of torque on the saw to create a subtle angle to help the exposed edges of the miter touch each other more easily. We do everything from left to right, so the left leg goes on first, then the left side of the header, then the right side of the header and right leg. It's super fast cause we eyeball the reveals, no measuring and marking, and never any gaps to the flooring. Instead of shims we hold a thin, narrow putty knife behind the casing to help with alignment. Pin things up, slide out the knife and everything stays put. It's a super fast system, and we only get compliments, never complaints. Just our way. Having a holster for your wood glue bottle speeds things up as well.

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

I like it🍻

[@rickhoupt6933]

Love the line up with saw trick. I always struggle measuring from short side.

[@peterelder7425]

Great video. Used all your tips and everything went like a charm. I especially liked the tip of making the 'Setting Block' well worth the little effort to do so. Thank you so much.

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Awesome to hear🍻

[@micahbarrett4785]

You’ve literally changed my life with one trick. I will never have to hold my tape on 1 inch while doing headers again. Good god, thank you so much

[@scottfergusson2791]

my exact thought. what the fuck have a i been doing. I'm literally driving to my shop to try it right now

[@regularguy9264]

CA glue with activator was a game changer for me too. After that, I would suggest a battery powered nailer. Not having to drag that hose around and mar other surfaces has been awesome!

[@bpdp379]

Can you use the CA glue with stained trim? Will it leave residue or any other problems?

[@robertallenmcdowell]

Once I discovered CA glue to do this there was no turning back. Had 16 doors to trim and they all turned out perfect. Thanks for the confirmation.

[@andersonolive4553]

I was just thinking about your channel the other day while I was on a job! I can’t tell you how stoked I am this video popped up! Glad you’re back….well back for me at least, maybe you never left.

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Cheers Buddy, thanks for watching

[@Fine_art_aerial]

Yep used a combination square for years but few years ago 3d printed some reveal gauges.. Best thing ever for a trim carpenter!! I have 4 of em from 1/8th to 5/16th but mostly use the 1/4" and 3/16" mostly.. Quick tip at 4:47, instead of at the top, make the mark on the very bottom of the trim then line it up with a zero clearance insert.. Love your videos bro!! Keep em coming!!

[@lesbentley4082]

Great video! Since I discovered mitre bond and preassembly, I’ve never looked back. The only way to trim interior doors and windows!

[@srussifordwilliams]

This is great!!! Amazingly clear thank you I learned a a few things. That miter saw 45 degree line up to table edge to measure the other 45 was so genious! I have been an appretince for 4 years and no one has ever told me that. I just see people burn a few inches or mark in place...

[@jimburger9418]

You are without question, a skilled craftsman. Your video production skills are top-shelf, as well. Thank you for making these videos and sharing your knowledge.

[@nathanweber8463]

Had to come back to this video to thank you!! I was working on casing around doors in our remodel this weekend, and I used the glue method on the miter joints. It worked PERFECTLY! This was my first time casing out doors myself and I've grown to really enjoy it. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise!

[@JoeRoenspie]

I’ve been doing cabinetry and finish work for a while I never saw the reveal block great idea . I always used a mini square. Thanks for the great idea

[@chriskelvin248]

Level 11 results: on a big flat work table, arrange all 3 door trim pieces. Use 2-part ca spray glue to immediately bond the 45 degree angles exactly. The gaps will vanish. Carry the entire assembly over to your door frame and brad nail in place, shim between the wall and trim as necessary. Caulk joints to finish. Faster, easier, cleaner than futzing around adjusting and installing the 3 pieces individually.

[@conradcoolerfiend]

great video, your door vids are always highest quality there is on youtube!

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Thanks buddy, I appreciate the praise!

[@woodmasterguy]

After many years of finish. I learned to pre-assembled when possible. 2p10 thick with accelerator and a cam clamp. Cam clamps will give you the tightest miter...

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

I'll have to give one of those cam clamps a go- although I'm dubious of the overall speed you'd be able to achieve with one.

[@MelbourneAlan]

absolute game changer. @@TheFunnyCarpenter

[@shandorszentkuti6330]

The clam clamps work great. I pre clamp the corner before the glue if I’m using CA with acceleration so the dents are easy to refit once I add the glue to be fast. If I’m not rushed I prefer using tightbond and a dab of CA without acceleration on the top and bottom of the joint just to make sure I don’t break it if I pull the clamps too early. The downside is clamps are pricey and two sides of a door is already four clamps tied up for a while.

[@MelbourneAlan]

@@shandorszentkuti6330 i have 6 of them. pricey but worth it. i use 5 min PU glue. dries really quick. . put a small bead on and sit the top arch so it is barely on and then slide it back so the excess is pushed back . works great on the modern mdf ones with minimal detail. then put on the clamps. i try to plan my archs to allow clamping time. i will cut and fit 3 sets(3 sets of clamps) and a few more is places that would slow me down like a room with more than 3 archs . then fit the first 3 and then skirt around the room. then as i get to a door i will cut that arch and move the clamps along. i try to use break times and lunch etc as a way to get ahead

[@lzh3131]

Thanks for the cam clamp tip. I need all the tips & tricks.😊

[@jaykudie]

When I used to trim homes that's how we did it. I recently did a reno with a flat profile trim like this but the walls and floors were very out of plumb and the spray glue was great for getting perfect flat profiles that required 0 filler on the front. Probably wouldn't do it on new builds because it takes too much time compared to just wood glue and nail on the spot but good when you just need it to hold in place nicely on a screwed-up wall.

[@8antipode9]

I've been doing the CA glue method for a while, but you still gave me plenty of new things to learn. I definitely appreciate your attention to detail!

[@nateitscake88]

I've been enjoying watching finish carpentry videos. I'm in the process of replacing the door trim and baseboards. I took my game to lvl 100! They were pricey, but I purchased 2 Clam Miter Clamps. I actually cut, glue and nail my miters before installing it on the door. This way my miter joints are invisible after a light sand in paint.

[@slmed87]

Hooking tape to saw is pure genius and probably why I’ve never thought of it ha

[@Ben-wd2in]

I prefer spraying the activator on the join after its held in position. When its sprayed on the second surface it can react with the glue on contact and prevent the two pieces coming together completely. You have to hold for a little longer but you also as much adjustment time as required.

[@andreww6738]

I love using both methods when doing trim, both work great, but the CA and spray is PRIMO! I worked on a large cottage last year that took about two weeks to trim out top to bottom and all the VERY high windows...ahhh, angled ones the CA was...as you say GOLDEN! Did this with all four pieces and I was just flabbergasted at the results, I have to say that I was feeling very good about my finished work, all the doors I did the other method and Bingo! Thanks for the encouragement you give to those who are taking a shot at it. Awesome video.

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Thanks Andrew. Glad to hear your success with the CA glue method. I’m always curious to know how people make out with it.

[@greeneggsandhammond]

The bloopers are my absolute favourite. Can you just make a compilation of these at the end of the year.

[@grahamburrows7570]

I've been doing this work my entire life. Watching your content is awesome. We can always do better, and you certainly do a great job. Thanks for sharing your talents!

[@olgajoachimosmundsen4647]

Thank you for showing the part when you align the mitre edge with the edge of the mitre saw base and hook the tape measure onto the mitre base - smart!

[@olgajoachimosmundsen4647]

In Norway it's practice not to paint or caulk the trim work. It's difficult to do trim-work when it's customary that you don't show or fix defects. Of course people fix their mistakes. But a properly done job should look like no mistakes were made, nor fixed

[@ChrisGuynn]

tried the level 10 and got great results. Thanks for all your great videos!

[@durty_1135]

This is the way I was taught almost 12 years ago when I started doing finish carpentry.

[@billwhite571]

The best shims for work like this is playing cards like they use in Vegas. Each card is exactly the same thickness. You can place a card on the gap and run your finger over it to see if its flush. If not add a card. if flush put the shims under and nail away.

[@top100nuclearblasts]

with this type of board for door and window trim I use biscuits to hold the corner and titebond glue. they never come apart.

[@ChristIsLord229]

You need to do a rolled miter. Put the shim on the saw then cut.

[@dans4900]

Only thing I do different is i have a straw on the activator. It took me three trips around the block and 20 years to get to this method. It works.

[@GetToThePointplz123]

Great for painted trim, you have to adjust the cut and bevel for stained trim and doors if you want it tight to jamb and wall...good video

[@Scubamike4499]

Love the channel. For a while i kept getting hairline gaps on the face of my miters It was so frustrating. Come to find out my miter saw blade wasnt 100% true. Sometimes your tool is the problem Cant wait to get the glue

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Ahh the old snaggle tooth syndrome.

[@commandoconstruction2720]

Please remember to use longer nails on the outer edges, where they must (usually) pass through sheetrock or something else that adds zero nail-gripping action.

[@luctoulouse]

I love the bloopers at the end...so funny!

[@billm.8220]

Love the trick with using shims. It definitely makes it a lot better.

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Definitely!

[@ot9180]

Send chill down my spine? No.

[@joewenzel5142]

I've seen door casings now where they just don't even bother with the miters. Just two boards on the side of the door and a board that just fits on top of them across the top. That sounds like it's more my speed.

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

The old popular header method.

[@brianrowe6435]

Just a style os doing it!@@TheFunnyCarpenter

[@sociopathmercenary]

I really like the style of door and window trim that uses carved squares of wood at the corners instead of miters. Then you were left with butt joints for the top and bottom trim. I enjoy the visual interest. Of course, I still enjoy the skill involved in a well mitered joint.

[@michaelgollin7853]

Here on Nantucket in the north east if we have a flat stock casing it's more common to use butt joints. Sometimes use a thicker piece for the top and have a little reveal. Miters suck I try to avoid when possible. Imho. And yes I am a carpenter by trade and have done alot if interior trim in high end houses

[@commandoconstruction2720]

@@sociopathmercenarySometimes with a decorative rosette, or other pattern.

[@hartleyhubbard3827]

lol....."...and if you're using metric, you're laughing at us...' lol that's funny, right there... and so true! Greg (garden grove, CA)

[@douglasorton9135]

Excellent description.

[@joshy6160]

A mini combination square also works well for setting reveals👍🏽

[@WowRixter]

I got goose bumps when I saw how tidy your miters were. So can a knucklehead carpenter get pro results with a spray gun? Inquiring minds want to know

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

lol short answer yes! I shot a video about me using my fuji q5 sprayer, but it was pretty boring. It works great. I’ll figure out a better video with it in the future.

[@mjdeguerrero2124]

Loved it, you got another subscriber.

[@jasonw9277]

Check out the Senco 21lxp nailer. Game changer! Shoots 21 gauge headed brad nails or headless pins up to 2". It almost has the holding power of 18 gauge but with a much smaller footprint closer to a 23 gauge. I am expert painter by trade but am a self taught near professional carpenter because of great videos like yours. I lend builders my 21g nail guns all the time, they love it, end up buying one and I love patching smaller holes, win win. Do your best, caulk the rest!

[@r.kay.]

Mid Mod homes (or others with clean-line sensibilities) with ornate/decorative/curvy trim is a personal pet peeve. There is a place for every trim. Also, this is likely a long-suffering door frame that is used for demo purposes (I’ve seen it used in more than one vid) - for our benefit. So, thanks, @The Funny Carpenter

[@alex.tr.]

Хорошая работа 👍. У нас мастера уже много лет так делают.

[@lzh3131]

Incredible timing for this video! I need to remove some interior window casings, fix drafts, and replace the outdated trim? Really appreciate the 2 different methods. I’m anxious, but the detailed explanations and instructions, really give me confidence. Thank you for another great video. Happy Holidays😊

[@jonathanflawn8117]

I like to use instant adhesive to fasten miters on the floor before putting up casing

[@brianrowe6435]

Yeah, wood glue is the way to go, but i'm a little slower because i like to use a clamp, such as Ulmia clamps or clam clamps. I leave it overnight! I don't think 2p10 is strong enough to do this, unless you're using mdf, then it works perfectly!! On wide flat casing i use biscuits, seems to to work pretty well!!

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Interesting points Brian. I’ve been thinking about doing some strength test with these type of joints. It will be interesting to see how the CA glue stacks up against wood glue, wood glue and biscuits, and I’m going to try using a biscuit with wood glue and then bond the outer parts with CA glue. I’ll do both mdf and wood mouldings. It also begs the question how strong is strong enough…

[@brianrowe6435]

Mdf and CA glue is strong, but titebond wood glue for wood casing in my experience!

[@weekendwarrior3420]

I'm amazed how even 30 years ago they already just couldn't nail door jambs straight together, or drive hinge screws straight, and it's worse today :-( To the point that it's easier to assemble jambs and hang doors myself.

[@-3as504]

44.9 degrees on saw. 1.2 bevel on saw out side edge. Glue and Nail long outside edge while laying down. Attach legs with 1x4 , 2 ect across like a strap. Cure overnight.Raise as one piece nail on……done.

[@CMbassin]

I have Hartford miter clamps. Shame they don’t make them anymore, they are an absolute game changer. Completely get rid of that gap at the short point

[@MFKR696]

The most mental thing of all is that Imperial's decimal-equivalents are easy to memorize, and more accurate, yet people still insist on relaying them in fractions (in multiples of 4, no less). It boggles the mind. Imperial's silly enough. Let's not complicate things any more than we have to... lol

[@JonFlash]

Can we get a video showing all the trim molding being used in this room? Love the look so far.

[@jeffsim8664]

Yep i learned a couple new tricks to make it better

[@bullfrogpondshop3179]

Love the pro method and I will be trying that next time I trim a door or window! One question: You don't shoot a nail through the miter after the glue dries?

[@kiddhitta]

You can but it's not necessary. The nails are to hold the trim in place while the wood glue dries. CA drys EXTREMELY quickly. Do NOT get any on your finger tips why putting the casing together. You will find out very quickly if you have some on your finger because it will become part of the trim....I know from experience.

[@kiddhitta]

To make life easier on yourself, cut the 45 first, measure out your length and make a 90 cut. Much easier to cut your line so your not trying to see where the blade is hitting on an angle.

[@ching574]

if its paint grade then we always do it the way you did it with the first door but stain grade ill pre assemble before hand like the second door

[@AdamHarris-k3f]

How do you get trim (casing) properly when you have an old house, and there's an uneven gap when putting in new doors and frame? I have a 1/2" gap on one side, and zero gap on the other side on the inside of the door. This happened because the hardwood floors that run with the doors needed to be straight at the bottom, whereas the walls were not in line. What you're doing here is easy.

[@F.BigGov]

Just curious if C-A has the long term hold like TB ?

[@Emang169]

I love how he says how much he loves the pry bars but doesn't add a link.

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

That is an excellent point, I’ll add that link.

[@valtsyplenkov4401]

Thanks!

[@yearight7956]

Instead of making a block on the table saw to mark your reveal just buy a Kreg Multi Mark tool. I use that for so many different things and it is always in my belt.

[@johnr5545]

Thanks nice job god bless

[@itisjojonz]

love the detail, thank you.

[@estevanvaldez2469]

I shot though my finger and hit the bone once … did it once … I learned good haha 😅

[@kenkirkeby4054]

I'm retired and doing a lot of remodeling projects. I have an issue with a number of interior doors. The sheet rock is sitting proud around the door frame. I initially thought I could add a trim piece to bring the frame even, but the distance it's proud is not even from top to bottom. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[@drizk07]

Hey Funny Carpenter! Love your videos I've learned a lot from you thus far, I was really excited to try this and I followed every step to the tee, but the connection just wasn't that strong unfortunately (with the CA glue + Activator) and I ended up using my nail gun to install. Any theories as to what I might be doing wrong?

[@jgkrus]

My first time trimming the bathroom door..do.. Let's just say I need more practice..It looks ok but definitelysee the some of the mistakes... I did notice my walls are not straight.. I going to redue it again in the summer.... My wife just wants done..

[@michaelplays2449]

Great video!!! Merry Christmas

[@wolfgangmetcalf9557]

Why wouldn’t you use a high quality white caulk like sherwin max for the joints instead of wood glue? It’s strong and it makes the joints look that much better

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

good idea

[@T_Jonesy]

Great tips. Why don't you get the attachment for your DeWalt that creates the shadow line? It's the reason I got rid of my Bosch saw and switched to DeWalt. No more guessing where the blade is going to come down.

[@weekendwarrior3420]

I've seen other carpenter here mostly using 15g nails...

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Ya nothing wrong with 15g. I've always thought it was a little overkill.

[@weekendwarrior3420]

Except that my cardboard doors are all hanging exclusively on these 15g nails. Casings are shot to the jambs on one side and to the house frame on the other. Nothing else is holding the doors :-) So 15g is probbaly the standard "go to" size in the "industry" @@TheFunnyCarpenter

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Ya I use 15g to nail the door jamb to the framing-that's a given. 18g for trims is how's it done round my parts. All those cowboys out there hanging doors by prenailing on the trims and then using the trims to hang the doors-don't know $hit. @@weekendwarrior3420

[@weekendwarrior3420]

They unfortunately do know - that's "builder-grade" work that's probably the quickest and sufficient to get the house through the warranty period. The exterior jambs are nailed directly to the frame with thicker nails. So they all sag on the upper hinge after some years - I see it on all 20-30 y.o. houses I visit in my city :-) . @@TheFunnyCarpenter

[@johnson1573]

Good job

[@kathypilchman3657]

Love this how to do video

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

thanks Kathy:)

[@mirandadventure]

Watched the video, read the comments, checked the description and still can’t find the width of the trim he’s using? 3.5” you think? Someone help me 😅

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

@@mirandadventure yes 3-1/2” wide x 11/16” thick

[@trever017]

I plan on attempting this for my first time soon. I have the same trim you removed and want to put on something similar what you have here, but I’m curious what is normal practice if the door way is close to a adjacent wall that is less than the height of the trim and requires to be ripped on the table saw. Obviously 45 degrees on both cuts will no longer work 😅

[@joesands8860]

I'm all for safety doing any job, but hearing protection using an air finish nailer is a bit much.

[@davidholmes7215]

What kinda glue is that and the activer

[@shockerfilms]

Great advice unfortunately in my case the original installer use a combination or stable brad nails and framing nail. Followed by the thickest caulk job. Needless to say it was a process to remove without damaging the jam or drywall

[@conny4973]

Lol! The dry erase board! 😂😂😂

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

That video is on the cutting room floor😂

[@conny4973]

@@TheFunnyCarpenter No blooper reel for us to enjoy? Awwww... Lol

[@GrizzlyHunt26]

NICE ... Beard Pal ! ..

[@howtodoitdude1662]

Thanks for sharing!

[@cannotequaltoshould4911]

Trim that is painted is far more forgiving. Can you do some tips for those DIY folks foolish enough to venture into hardwood baseboards and window and door casings. especially uneven floors, non plume walls, non straight walls, poorly executed drywall corners, and basically all the defectful houses that we live in

[@CraigularjJoeWoodworks]

I’ve tried the super glue way, it never works. It always breaks

[@dbrown2746able]

Well done 👍 one piece of advice put some cardboard or canvas on you floor. You would be surprised how sloppy some of your viewers are

[@guyod1]

flat trim i will just use a orbital sander on miter and

[@mariaochoa2556]

Question, would you used or recommend MDF trims?

[@rezaabasi2187]

seriously why using imperial and make it harder than neccesarily? its redicoules instead of measuring 3/16 of an inch you can say 5 mm ! lol love your videos man, thanks

[@csimet]

Nice tips. I glue and shim mine with pin nails to hold the corners to each other if they are close. If not, I use biscuits and glue... with shims as well to keep things solid on the wall. Painted trim is way easier to dress out than stained, since you can always finish it with caulk. ;)

[@jonathanflawn8117]

Made my comment too soon - saw method #2😊

[@nathanjames1089]

@8:32 you can see the nail flying I think for a split second.

[@AlejandroPerez-ic7vn]

Are you from riverside county

[@robertblack4262]

Couldn’t you just use the old trim as a template for your cuts?

[@MrTheBurkes]

Hey bud

[@ZsLows]

I get adding 3/16 + 3/16. What's the 3/8's represent?

[@ajp1121]

I too am curious about where he got 3/8 and a 3/16 from

[@gregorymacneil2836]

Is your bee hive glazing bar any different than a Richards scrapper /pry bar?

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Richard’s Red, that’s the one.