Stop Choosing The Wrong Caulking! (Get What The Pros Use)

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

A lot of people asking about the red caps for storage in the video. Here is the affiliate Amazon link: amzn.to/3Xkqs9y

[@mikejohnson9118]

Sooo...these are caulk gun "condoms". Brilliant. Normally I just use blue painters tape for short term. A 2 1/2" screw and tape long term.

[@user-zq6pj5jo8j]

@@mikejohnson9118 Yep, Its so Your "Caulk" doesn't drip...LOL

[@electrocat9]

Hi, blended silicone is not 100%, then what is it? 100% silicone smells vinegar then why? They expire pretty quickly, I'm curious what the downsides are if I use it expired.

[@loktom4068]

@Militaru Dan 100% silicone can't be dry or solidify if the silicone tube past the due date. Sometimes, if you are lucky enough, you can still get away with successful results. But it's a gambling game that may not end well. The best is to test the past due date tube 24 hrs ahead before the real job begins. But who actually has the time in reality at the job site?

[@loktom4068]

@Militaru Dan The vinegar smell is the chemical ingredient in the 100% silicone to prevent mold and mildew. Some brands are superior to others. Eventually, mildew and mold will penatrate into the 100% silicone as it gets old if used around bathrooms that don't maintain good sanitation and upkeep.

[@frankbullitt4556]

A breath of fresh air video. Walk into Lowes and there are shelves full of caulking and I have no idea what I need. Thank you

[@MrWilsonlev]

The first problem is is that you walked into Lowe's.... run out fast, hurry go get out of there!

[@Parizchill]

@@MrWilsonlevso home depot ? 😂

[@MrWilsonlev]

Yes, they have the right products and the staff is somewhat knowledgable especially the paint guys and gals. Now I am speaking from 20 years experience, now results may vary depending on the Home Depot that you visit mine here in North Phoenix that I've been going to for quite some time is top-notch and the staff there have been there for quite some time and generally know what they're talking about

[@henrylevi3836]

Absolutely zero wasted time in getting out this helpful info. Props for making clear concise videos like this.

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Glad it was helpful!

[@man-observing-world]

The man went for the Dynaflex 230 in the first 30 seconds, he earned my respect in as much time.

[@Halfrightfox]

This is better than any commercial I've ever watched. This clears up so much confusion.

[@rogerlafon6717]

After all these years, I finally got educated on the proper caulk for a particular job. Absolutely an excellent and informative video. Keeping it simple and interesting. You did it. Thanks.

[@cblanton42]

I have learned to ALWAYS check the best before dates on the tubes, just yesterday I had a guy buy some silicone for sticking down some thresholds on a floating floor and two of the tubes he bought had a best before date of 2011, 11 years past the recommended date!! Also, if you open a tube of 100% silicone and it doesn't have the strong vinegar smell then it's not good, don't use it!

[@janeblogs324]

Silicone will only stick to itself, ie glass. If you are glueing and sealing you need a sealant adhesive

[@cblanton42]

@@janeblogs324 I think you have it backwards, pretty much nothing will stick to silicone once it is applied and cured. I'm using the silicone to stick a plastic/wood threshold to a floating floor which expands and contracts, so a flexible joint is needed.

[@solarsynapse]

@@janeblogs324 Silicone IS adhesive/glue made from silicone oil. Nothing sticks to it after cured...not even silicone.

[@thecrittergitter7576]

In aviation, the vinegar smell is corrosive with aluminum. I would be concerned with the corrosion.

[@solarsynapse]

@@thecrittergitter7576 That's part of the reason fighter jets don't have batteries. They start a small turbine generator with an air tank. It also saves weight.

[@CreativeIdeasMaker]

No one has ever explained it as well as you. Thank you for examining all the issues so carefully.

[@markjr696]

This man deserves an Oscar or Emmy for just the sheer effort and detail and information. There needs to be the highest level of appreciation for this guy’s opinion/advice because he just saved you thousands of dollars and years of headaches. 👏 👏 👏

[@michaelandrews5499]

Great video! I've spent years wondering why there are so darn many options for caulk. This video makes it simple and clear enough that I almost know what I’m doing now.

[@harvestblades]

You summed up 30 years of lessons learned in under 7 min. I remeber caulking cracked stucko walls before repainting & accidentally selected a non printable silicone. Needless to say that was a bunch of wated time. Great overview & recommendation. As a DIY guy no longer in the trades I hate having to buy, store & throw away multiple tunes of caulking so having a good general purpose covers 99% of my applications. You also make a great point onnthe porosity of caulking especially for baseboards or in the kitchen where dust or grease clings to it & just looks disgusting quickly & cleaning is a hassle.

[@soularwave]

I missed the porosity part. Where did you find that?

[@Joe-bm4wx]

Been using big stretch for about a year now, and will never go back. It’s simply the best.

[@KevinL-j4h]

Thanks!

[@ChazBword]

You got to the point, told us which one to choose, then captivated us with the reasons to stay. Nice video.

[@JasterMereel421]

This is the best video that I have ever seen about which caulk to use. It had enough detail and wasn't overly long.

[@walnutcontractors5661]

Thank you ! I had no idea about the roughness of the caulks after drying. It makes sense that the painters pick the Alex Plus which will bond with paint better but I like that the dynaflex will still bond but if you fail to paint it then the cleaning is just as easy as if painted !

[@li2us]

Another thing I like about 230 is it doesn't set up hard in the nozzle. I generally squeeze out a small protruding amount at the tip and when that air dries it prevents the product from drying further down the tube. I've been using it for years and have never had it harden so that it had to be thrown out.

[@narlycharley]

It truly is great! Big Stretch does that too, which is nice.

[@johnwhite2576]

U should NOt use either of these on exterior

[@gregpflaum]

@@johnwhite2576 What do you recommend for exterior? DAP Dynaflex 230 says "ideal for indoor/outdoor use."

[@aquarianhealer]

Love this idea. I have fought with many tubes 1/2 + 3/4 full that are dry at the bottom 🥴

[@stevencrowley1818]

I love Big Stretch because it offers a range of wood-toned colors, is easy to work with and weathers well.

[@mad1ben2]

Man! You just answered a few questions I didn't know to ask! Thanks for the insight on the differences between them and why you have one that works the vast majority of the time.

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Thanks Ben

[@cgilleybsw]

What mad1 said.

[@nedderfu]

@@cgilleybsw Exactly. Staring at that wall of caulk at Home Depot. Now we know, thanks

[@blaster-zy7xx]

You are SO RIGHT! It took me YEARS to learn this. Bottom end calk turns brown if not painted over and it cracks. Silicone can’t be painted and is a sticky nightmare to work with unless it is needed for waterproofing, so the middle stuff that you pointed out is what I use about 90% of the time now too and only go for 100% silicone when I’m dealing with glass in a shower or the like. Good episode.

[@TheFixerHomeRepair]

This is the video that I had no idea I needed. Been struggling with cracking caulking forever. Just so happened to pick up the dynaflex to give it a try. Great to hear I picked a winner. Thank you!

[@drew5334]

Yup, can vouch for Dynaflex, it's great since it covers most of what you need to do, I always keep a few tubes of white and clear in the work van. I also love Lexel for stuff that needs to be waterproof immediately, and crystal clear or needs to be able to be painted later. Lexel is easy to reuse too, only the very tip of the nozzle firms up, so it's easy to use every last bit of the tube over many uses.

[@NoInfoFound]

Thanks for taking the time to make this...

[@jonhansen4745]

Excellent info in this video & I agree completely. Dap 230 has been my go to for longer than I can remember. When I need a silicone caulk my go-to is Sashco Lexel which is actually not 100% silicone but works better than any silicone I've ever tried and is much clearer than 100% silicone.

[@TheCookster64]

Same here. Sashco makes great stuff.

[@LeandroSehnemHeck]

DUDE, YOU ARE AWESOME. YOU GAVE THE ANSWER ON THE 48 s of the video. You are the heroe the internet needs.

[@tomwill313]

Great demo but I have two small issues one is there is paintable silicone it is made by GE and is available at Home Depot for about $14 and I use for a ton of exterior painting jobs it’s great for the north east just keep a container of denatured alcohol for clean up. The other is I would never caulk in a toilet if there is a leak it can only go one way and you won’t know it till it’s coming through the ceiling. But maybe that’s just me

[@drloch6174]

GE Paintable Silicon, use it all the time. If you do use the wrong silicon caulk it can be painted but you need to use a oil based primer. For exterior I've had good results with SW Exterior Oil based wood primer.

[@tehapu7358]

A good plumber always leaves a space at the back where and leaks could come through and be noticed.

[@ChetanJindal-i5b]

I watch tutorial videos for almost everything, but I never felt the need to comment. This video is amazing. Absolutely amazing. Concise and to the point.

[@garyh4458]

I use Dynaflex 230 as well. It's good stuff! BUT, it has to be painted on trim, especially on baseboard. Reason why is because dust will fall on it and it will be tacky enough, even when dried for a long time, for the dust to stick and look ugly. It also yellows a bit over time. Painting solves that problem. If you are a contractor, you can get away without painting it because you will be long gone before it turns yellow and dusty. But trust me, it must be painted if you want it to look good for a long time.

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Fair points Gary. I have a bunch of unpainted dynaflex in my home and have had good success wiping it off.

[@Fraxter3813]

I have 30 different caulk tubes downstairs and no clear understanding of them. Until now! I really appreciate the basics on this. And, thankfully, the Dynaflex is at least a third of what I have. Appreciate your videos!

[@ontheway4034]

Thank you for this video. I really appreciate how you covered all of the characteristics of each and demonstrated. Wish I had this information years ago. I would also appreciate a video on exterior caulks for siding and trim. My house was resided with LP Smartside about 12 years ago and the OSI Quad caulk has not held up well. I’m not sure if it was the caulk or poor installation by the contractor. A video on exterior caulk and proper removal of old and application of new caulk around window trim, doors and siding corner boards would be much appreciated. 😊

[@repentofidols]

Great video. I am going to try and switch to 230 because I am a painter. Thank you for not swearing or using corrupt evil music. You seem also to have a meek humble spirit that is willing to teach.

[@geecee1990]

I've definitely been guilty of over-using the two on the far right. However, I did discover the 230 a couple of years ago and have moved to that almost exclusively for my DIY carpentry/trim work. Great stuff!

[@alpha42069]

its good but turns yellow very quickly

[@MadLadsAnonymous]

@@alpha42069So what do you use?

[@JustinShaedo]

Thank you. I appreciate this being descriptive enough for us non US viewers to understand too. Much appreciation from Australia.

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Cheers mate 🍻

[@jimmccall2689]

I really like the "Cooks Illustrated" approach to showing youtubers the various product and the pros and cons: I went and bought some DAP 230 for my trim. I have a particular question for which caulk would you use for a kitchen counter backsplash behind the sink faucet? What I used previously before was way to brittle and it got pretty brown and manky. The ideal product would have strong adhesion to prevent any water intrusion, would be elastic to not dry up and get brittle, and would have strong repellant qualities to prevent a manky build-up behind the faucet.

[@tehapu7358]

..you said manky.

[@presidentspilot]

In a couple of words: FANTASTIC VIDEO!! You didn't spend a million words to preface your conclusions!! You got right to the answer, FAST!! Thank you so very much!!

[@502Chevy]

This was enough for me to start using the dynaflex caulk over the others I’ve been using. Big Stretch is my other go to. Good job.

[@gode2235]

this video helped me the most out of any caulking video. I could not figure out why my new caulking was just peeling off. thank you.

[@philipramsden4975]

I've been using that Alex 40yr for all my projects the past few years and never had an issue. Will definitely try out the Dynaflex though for my next one

[@vickikammerer791]

This! The best information I've found anywhere, including paint supply stores. I recently hired someone to caulk my tub/shower. The person used DAP. Within a month, it failed.

[@SLaird22]

Man these videos are great - I was just faced with this dilemma when I last went to get caulking tubes and had no idea what the differences were between all of the different types. Prior to your tips video I was atrocious and hated to do any caulking. Now, I'm a monster of caulk.

[@DougCeleste]

BEST caulking brands video I have ever seen and thanks for sharing your professional words of wisdom with all of us!

[@mathewniven]

Wow, this was the best explanation of caulk I have ever watched. Just masterful

[@Tylerredrocket]

I started using the dynaflex 230 for most of my baseboard/trim caulking the last year or so. There is something about it too that just makes it "nice" to work with. Can't really even describe it, but it just lays down so clean and smooths out beautifully when you run your finger over it after.

[@johnwhite2576]

Yes it applies easily and is better than plain latex but should Never be used on windows exteriors

[@pancakepancake3789]

Awesome vid - so informative, and I love that you actually demonstrated the different properties with samples rather than just describing or telling.

[@BigRaku]

Dynaflex is an excellent, versatile product, but I don't use it in applications where it will be exposed to dust or grime. It tends to attract and hold on to contaminants unless painted over.

[@Happy-Trails-To-You]

Great simple explanation. I have two observations. 100% silicone may be great for waterproofing, but IF it ever fails, or you need to remove it (like a shower door enclosure) you will NEVER get the old silicone off, and new caulks including silicone WILL NOT STICK to that surface again. It is a one time deal. I had a leak in my shower door track that meets the marble sill. I tried everything to remove the old silicone and repair that joint. They say mechanical abrasive removal is your best chance. I tried that, even bought a new door track, but could not get new sealant to stick to the marble even after light sanding of the marble. I will never use 100% silicone again. Regarding Dynaflex, I found that it appears to remain "tacky" even after it drys, and dirt sticks to it. I use Alex plus for most of my projects.

[@tonyhendrick]

This is exactly what choice I've come to make (Dynaflex 230 95% of the time & 100% Silicone 5% of the time) during my 35 years painting outdoor murals and sculpture and almost 20 years working on home projects. It's nice to hear someone layout so clearly my reasoning which simply came from an intuitive decision and experience.

[@christian__humphrey]

Very helpful vid, thank you.

[@greenpea9412]

That was about as good as it's going to get folks in regards to caulk. Holly smokes I just learned everything I will ever need to know about choosing the right caulk and why in 6 1/2 minutes. The visual examples are spot on too. Buddy you crushed this video.

[@AMDinMissouri]

So happy I stumbled on your channel! Watched videos about caulking baseboards and went down the rabbit hole :-) I didn't know what I didn't know. Thank you so much!

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Thanks for checking out the channel Annette, hopefully some of the info will be useful!

[@MrTomac4]

Thanks for such a great video. About to caulk a bunch of baseboard. Going to go with the dynaflex now

[@soulcandyalmadulce5885]

Thank you so much, just experienced that dryness in the bathroom because I don't know much about it and its differences until I watched your video. Great day to you and yours.

[@poeticallyincorrect]

This is JUST WHAT I NEEDED!! I've been trying to caulk our bathtub and it just cracks repaired no matter how long we let it dry. I will get some silicone this time. Thanks for a great video and all the tests you did!

[@Chris.Rhodes]

Depends on where you're caulking. If you're caulking at the floor, use white silicone and tool it to make it look good. Use aerosol window cleaner (I use Sprayway Glass Cleaner from Walmart in the auto section, blue and white can) and spray your caulking, and then use your finger. It won't stick to your finger. If you're caulking up around the shower surround where you're going to paint it, I recommend Dynaflex or Big Stretch. They both perform very well in a bathroom setting and then paint over it to seal it.

[@ThisTall]

@@Chris.Rhodes About 20% dish soap to water mix works the same way. I use this every day. With one of those cheap trowel tools it turns out perfect every time.

[@Chris.Rhodes]

@@ThisTall Yeah you can use soapy wooder too. But I usually always have a can of window cleaner, so i just find it easier instead of making another bottle of just soapy wooder. But yeah they both work good.

[@ThisTall]

@@Chris.Rhodes ya whatever you find handy. I like to wash my hands often when caulking a lot, so I have a little spray bottle with me already. I like the foaming window cleaner idea cause you can always see your coverage. Sometimes it’s not easy to see on white surfaces wether you’ve sprayed with just soapy water.

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Excellent tip, this works great. Just make sure you’re getting good contact on the initial bead.

[@chompchompfood]

I just bought my first house and I found I need to replace some old caulk. I'm so glad I found this channel and this video!

[@IppiopaidFEEDBACK]

Excellent! I usually just go for the Alex plus but now I realize I’ve been pretty much doing it wrong. And the points you made about painting over the caulk was excellent too, It’s the same thing with prime trim if you don’t paint it it’s just gonna get extremely dirty because it’s meant to sealed by paint.

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Glad to help!

[@JH-ld9jk]

I’m in the same boat. Bought a dozen tubes of Alex Plus based on a “professional’s” opinion that was in the aisle with me at Home Depot. Oh well. That’s the great thing about KZbin, you learn things to make your life easier, while simultaneously regretting some of your previous life choices!

[@annascott3542]

I’m so glad I watched this. No wonder my caulking always ends up looking like crap after a couple years - I live in a 100 year old house that shifts on it’s foundation and I’ve almost exclusively used Alex plus for the 15 years I’ve lived in it and have basically caulked the entire house with it. So definitely going to start using in dynaflex. Thanks!

[@TheLastGasStation]

big stretch is good for larger gaps, otherwise DF is the best.

[@thematey3592]

When it comes to silicone I use only the type 1 stinky type. Through some frustrating experience I found the newer type 2 which is non stinky has a very unpredictable shelf life resulting in a bead that does not cure but leaves a goopy mess that has to be removed and re done. I think I will give your suggestion a try, thank you and great video as always.

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Thanks matey🍻

[@rolfbjorn9937]

Unless your surface is sensitive to the acetic acid cure (stone, some metals) , it's also the strongest at bonding. Silicone II is either oxime cure or neutral cure, and I don't like them as much, they're more finicky, and the skinning is more pronounced (cannot cure to depth)

[@genecarden780]

@@rolfbjorn9937 Silicone 2 takes much longer to cure. But I have never had a problem with reaching a full cure. Are you using a tooling agent( water,soapy water,window cleaner)?

[@rolfbjorn9937]

@@genecarden780 I don't care about the silicone 2, I only use the proper silicone 1 for the application. Silicone 2 smells less, skins faster(which in turns slows down the cure to a halt), adheres less, is a bit more resilient in tension, and if slightly close or past it's due date (which in home centers is often a couple years past...) doesn't cure at all. I can cure a gigantic (like a whole tube or more) blob of Silicone 1 over a couple of minutes (or hours if I want it more pure) with some tricks that turn it into a 2 part system.

[@genecarden780]

@@rolfbjorn9937 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@ruthkotwica3334]

Thanks, really glad I checked out your video before I went any further with my silicone caulk which I bought because of the easy gun applicator. Big oops on my part. At 78 I am very much a newbie at applying caulking. My husband used to do all of the necessary caulking work. Your video sure is making this job much easier. Thanks again.

[@surveysays8335]

Big Stretch is far superior to Dap Dynoflex. It shrinks less, it covers larger gaps easier, and it tools in better... The reason you go with Dynoflex is it's 80% as good for 50% the price.

[@117ashton]

exactly 100% sashco products all day...never dap....only acrylic latex used should be the green tube for SW

[@surveysays8335]

@@117ashton Totally agree without a single doubt, and anyone saying otherwise is doing it for youtube and never worked with the stuff... If you know WTF you're doing and you have it in your budget; You're using Sashco products... NOT DAP! It costs a little more, but the difference is, a proper done Shasco products job never needs to be done again.

[@quailstudios]

This was an awesome video. I needed this because I'm going to redo the calking in my kitchen tomorrow. Perfect. Love your beard BTW.

[@neilgoedhuis5606]

Awesome. I typically go to one end of the spectrum or the other - largely on the basis of paint/no paint. Great to know more about these in-between options! Thanks.

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Cheers, thanks for checking out the vid Neil🍻

[@davidgraham2673]

OK, now we're talking. Great video, and "why" was explained clearly enough to stick. Kudos

[@nicholash8021]

I've been an Alex Plus fan for years because it's so easy to apply, smooth out to a perfect seam, and clean up with a damp rag, but it does have its issues with staying that way and cleaning it over the years. The 100% silicone is a nightmare to get the perfect look because it's too sticky and hard to get off your hands. Looking forward to trying 230 as that seems like the best of both worlds.

[@richardkalmwater5996]

Silicone is easy if..... (1)get a spray bottle that is capable of misting. (2)Fill bottle with water (3)Add 4-5 drops of dawn dishwashing soap (or equivalant) (4)Lay your caulk line. (5)Spray the weak soapy solution as a MIST on your hands and....the caulk line (only a light mist is needed). (6)Use your finger (which has the soapy mist on it) to smooth the perfect caulk line. And it will save you a lot of time and make cleaning your hands easy.

[@jefferysill5539]

Silicone is for a tub, urethane for all exterior work

[@paulbest3172]

You nailed it with caulk! This is the best informational video I have seen on KZbin.

[@1959mikel]

Good information thanks for the video. Some of my ceramic toilet paper holders were glued using silicone over 30 years ago. I would add that for showers and bathtubs areas the anti mold additive in silicone is important, not sure if that comes in the blended tubes,

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Excellent advice

[@tonymanero5544]

DAP Kwik Seal line is latex with silicon. Ultra has anti mold.

[@ljay3030]

Thanks for the info … I’ve been confused about what to use in the kitchen after the trim work has all been done. I just wanted to seal where to floor and trim meet to keep water out !!!

[@dougb8207]

Great show! It's been a difficult subject to learn over the years, walking into stores and seeing dozens of different product with little clue which one to purchase. This is very helpful.

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

🍻 for storage, they make some red silicone caps that are basically tiny condoms. They work pretty well.

[@dougb8207]

@@TheFunnyCarpenter thank you; I didn't know about those silicone caps. They must sell them separately; I'll look for them!

[@Rich-hm9ux]

Man, I wish I would have seen this video a few months ago when I re-caulked the crown moulding in my master bedroom again with the Dap pure acrylic. I've been using that product for all my moulding, baseboards and trim throughout my house. I like it because it is easy to wash up. But it definitely cracks and collects dirt.

[@Dave-nm3xc]

The only thing I'd ever use silicone on is sealing an aquarium. Otherwise Big stretch, or dynaflex is my go-to as well.

[@lauraely3372]

tremendously helpful. re-caulking a fiberglass bathtub. Silicon is best and encouraging b/c the contractor used it the 1st time. good to know he did it right, and now wear and tear requires it to be re-caulked

[@towersealants1349]

Good video. Not all caulks are created equal.

[@steveallwin1056]

You are the boss. Your prep and thorough experimentation is phenomenal.

[@Quickened1]

You are right for the most part. There's also the cost factor involved, but we'll leave that aside. The 230 and latex silicone are primarily what I use. The cheapest, 25 year acrylic caulk is ok for baseboards and trim that are being painted, and I've seen it last for many years without problems. It also cures to be more durable after a couple months. However, I still advise most to use the latex silicone on all trim that's going to be painted, because as you said, it is more flexible and it's reasonably priced, well at least it was before covid. I'll use the 230 if something needs a stronger bond, but it's usually not necessary for caulking around trim, and it's twice the price, even though the advantages are negligible. Now the BIG caveat here is, never use pure silicone around or inside bathtubs or showers, despite what the so called "professionals" tell you!!! I've been in the industry off and on for 45 years, and whenever I've encountered pure silicone in showers, it's almost always either moldy behind it, or peeling off, and it peels off with two fingers, especially when the mold has gotten behind it, which it almost always seems to do after a couple years. It's also extremely messy, difficult to clean up, and it can leave a thin film along it's edges that'll look ok at first, but after a few cleanings, it'll begin to peel on those edges. No, the best I've used around tubs is either the 40 year latex silicone, or the Dynaflex 230. I've caulked around several hundred showers/tubs over the years, and a few I've had to revisit several years later, and these two products resist mold, bond incredibly well, and look great the majority of the time! The silicone, well let's just say, I've had to remove and re-caulk dozens of showers that someone, (professional?) used it on, and it's pretty much always a mess... Everybody has their own opinion, but take it from a "professional", using 40 year latex silicone, or Dynaflex 230, is your best bet for your tub, even 5 years later, it'll still look great as long as the tub is periodically cleaned. The amazing part is, it seems to get stronger as time goes by... I know, because I've personally painted over a thousand homes, and it lasts longer than anything else I've used, and Dynaflex 230 hasn't been around all that long... Bottom line, avoid pure silicone like the plague on any exposed surfaces!!! Interior or exterior, or you'll regret it later, take my word for it...

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Excellent post, thanks for sharing your experience!

[@rolfbjorn9937]

That's nonsense, because you're only telling a partial story by telling us "pure silicone" Only 100% silicone, further enhanced with mold inhibitors, from reputable providers will stay clean. Use the GE Silicone I Kitchen and Bathroom or exterior rated silicone, not the all purpose (no mold inhibitors). Either way, silicone itself doesn't mold.

[@Quickened1]

@@rolfbjorn9937 and you would be right, it doesnt, but, what does happen over and over again, is the silicone itself detaches from the tile and allows mold to grow behind it. I have seen it time and again. Another problem is, if the installation requires the user to use something like their finger to level and or spread the silicone, it creates a "lip" for lack of a better word, that cannot be painted. Just recently ran into that one. The "professionals", caulked around a step in tub enclosure, and the wall could not be evenly cut in with paint, leaving a jagged edge varying from a to 1/4" up to 1/2" away from the panels.

[@Quickened1]

Dap Kwik Seal with Mold Guard should also be mentioned as an excellent bathroom caulk...

[@vaderladyl]

I have to attest to that. I am a professional housekeeper and I had seen many showers and tubs with moldy silicone, and the type of caulk used that seems affected is always the clear silicone one. Like you mentioned, seems like it partially lifts off and let water get under it that then fosters the growth of mildew. Sometimes it peels off completely after a while that I even had to actually remove it with my fingers like strips, on occasion, as it is completely detached.

[@CalmBeforeTheStorm76]

I like this guy. He seems pretty knowledgeable and trustworthy

[@danchiasson]

Great info as always. I used to always use Alex Plus for around baseboards, etc, but with your demonstration I now I realize it only looks good IF you paint it. If not, it picks up dust and dirt stains like a magnet and stains as easily as flat ceiling paint. I'll use Dynaflex next time!

[@LeoRousseau]

Great video! I always grabbed the Alex Plus. For now on I will grab the Dynaflex 230. Thanks for the video bud! 🇺🇦🇺🇸👊

[@danjones2680]

Dude, your videos are top notch. I come back to them often.

[@westnile23]

This guy gives away everything for free, haven’t got more from a guy in the tube

[@gregwhitaker5260]

I have always used bigstretch when available, dynaflex 230 otherwise. Great video

[@indomitableson]

Two additional products to consider: Shermax and AllPro ProStretch. Both are a urethanized elastomeric sealant with lifetime warranties. ProStretch and Dynaflex 230 have the same Dynamic Joint Movement (ASTM C719) rating of +/- 25% (stretchability). Shermax has a DJM rating of +/- 35%.

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

This is very interesting info, thanks for sharing. I will definitely check out those products.

[@danieltikusis5239]

Do you work for a sealant manufacturer?

[@indomitableson]

@@danieltikusis5239 I do not. Why do you ask?

[@danieltikusis5239]

@@indomitableson You referenced technical data that contractors do not usually talk about. I am a chemist that worked at Sashco and Big Stretch was one of the product that I oversaw.

[@indomitableson]

@@danieltikusis5239 that's cool. I'm a painting contractor. We've used Big Stretch a time or two. More early in the pandemic because they weren't even making the stuff we normally use. ASTM C719 rating of +/-25%. Pretty good stuff. 👍 I figured that introducing him to the technical data that was most relevant to this video would enlighten some people on things to look for. If a product doesn't have at least a rating of +/-25% then don't use it. It's like my dad taught me: do it right the first time and you won't have to fix it later. Obviously, no caulking can overcome movement in the building. This stretchability in caulking products is designed to hide most of the normal expansion and contraction from heat and humidity. But that's all they can do.

[@chuckcouture3370]

Thanks for the video. The 230 works excellent. As for caps I have found wine corks with 1/4 inch hole drilled part way to be awesome caps. When removed its like just opened container fresh and cheaper and fun to collect.

[@tubefxmstr]

Best advice of a lifetime for me was to stay far away from DAP caulking products. GE has never failed me.

[@scenicnomad8744]

Just curious, what's wrong with DAP and so much better about GE?

[@jackofalltrades4844]

@@scenicnomad8744 DAP makes good products, you just need to choose the right product for the job. I’m a contractor and have used many different brands and manufacturers, DAP does as well as anyone.

[@michaelmaas5544]

Great job straight and to the point! Ive been using The Big Stretch for years and swear by it.

[@Sailor376also]

Been at this for a lot of years. So many,, I have had to go back and fix my own work 20 or 30 years later. I will NEVER use 100% silicone again. I repeat, never. Black mold will unstick it and also make it neare impossible to remove. You cannot caulk over 100% silicone,,, not even with new silicone,, and you cannot get all of the silicone off,, ever. Scrape scrub,, scratch at it on tile,, on a plastic , acrylic, or fiberglass tub or shower,, cannot get it off stone, porcelain, glass is about the only thing you can get it off of. So it works great for 20 years,, grows the black mold under it,, and then cannot be fixed with anything less than an entire man day scrubbing and scraping a single bath surround. Dynaflex,, or Polyseamseal Cut or scrape it away when the time comes and apply new in its place. NEVER use silicone. First license over 50 years ago.

[@Chris-fm5oh]

Wow this was extremely helpful. I'm about to caulk some exterior windows, install a vanity, baseboards, and toilet. Now I know which brand to buy!!!!

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

For exterior I’d use Quad by Lepage. Dynaflex 230 is only good for interior, in my opinion. Best wishes on the projects🍻

[@jamesherman1350]

DynaFlex is the best over all product I have found in my 40+ years as a carpenter. There is one product you didn't have in the group is Lexel. The clear is extremely clear, but I definately wouldn't recommend it for a DYI person. Not as user friendly but an amazing product especially on exterior projects.

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

😂yes that lexel clear can be sticky af!

[@drew5334]

Exactly, Dynaflex and Lexel are the two I use the most, then I keep some silicone for plumbing/bath repairs as well.

[@Chris.Rhodes]

I only use Lexel in my Milwaukee caulking gun, that shit kills my hand trying to pump it out. So I let the battery and motor do the work. But it works amazing in a wet situation. I've fixed a few roof leaks with rubber roofing with it as a temporary fix and it really works.

[@nilpo]

Lexel is the only thing to use. Flexible, can be used wet, great adhesion, seals perfectly, and is easy to work with. Dynaflex is good in the beginning, but it breaks down too quickly.

[@scottschreiber6008]

Quick Crete no sag for me with outdoor stuff. Just love it.

[@jameslastname9171]

Let’s talk about caulking a toilet to the floor. When the wax ring fails and leaks water under your toilet, the caulk holds the gross water under the toilet and destroys your flooring without warning you that there is a leak. Let’s not discuss caulking toilets to the floor again… don’t do it

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Stat tuned next week-ish. I’ll show you the best way to do it. Don’t caulk the back. Caulking the front and sides will keep almost all the overflowing bacteria water from seeping under the toilet, and leaving the back open is a fail safe if the seal fails on the wax ring.

[@D2O2]

Don't use wax rings.

[@Dbb27]

@@D2O2 what do you use?

[@D2O2]

@@Dbb27 Anything but wax. I have had success with wax-less seals from Fluidmaster, Korky and Sani Seal. For toilets that haven't had a wax ring previously, add Fernco to the list.

[@garyszewc3339]

It's code. Toilet must be caulked to get a C of O.

[@MH-zk6yo]

You are great - You have told things that are so important to know as what is the best product/brand for the job and why. Thankyou for this video. Pls keep sharing your knowledge with us.

[@DannerCando-ev4fo]

THANK YOU SO MUCH for the Dynamic Flex info to avoid future dust issues on top of my trim. I’m just getting ready to update our trim and this IS an awesome tip! Also, I noticed when you showed the paint board at 2:52 that the Dynaflex has a bit more sheen but that’s probably what makes it easier to wipe away the dust.

[@russelldavid6194]

Thanks!

[@shellyd7339]

Thank you LORD for sending this funny carpenter to clear the haze of the myriad of caulk products out there. My eyes glaze over when I go into the caulk aisle - too many choices!! Now I will feel more confident in what to choose - and will take your advice and choose the Dynaflex 230 most of the time.

[@smokinfasts1973]

I’m a General B and the dyna 230 is my go to. Good video!

[@ibitaRaptor]

Wow. Ok, you made me a believer. Great information especially with the sound and smooth showcase.

[@gototcm]

Very helpful and happy to learn something worthwhile. I've been reading reviews for GE Silicone for bath and kitchen and many people report the "white" Silicone turns yellow in a few days or worse yet, it doesn't cure. GE has not responded to any of these comments. We have a few gaps at the shower floor between the wall and floor that are about 3/8" wide so tile grout continually cracks. So it is either sanded grout or Silicone. When it comes to Silicone, it's hard to know what product to buy. The Mono Silicone shown in your video and sold by Home Depot (but not in the USA) has a few negative ratings due to misapplication I suspect, but the company provided tips to the consumer who rated it negatively on how to correct the problems. That is good customer service. And there are some who say you need to apply it quickly because of very fast cure time. Anyway, any insights or opinions on GE would be helpful. Thanks.

[@indigophox]

Super amazingly informative video, and not artificially long so bonus points. You should also include urethane products-there are some DAP options but if I need something absolutely stupidly bulletproof I look to 3M 5200 which is a below-waterline marine sealant. So if there's a problem with bathroom stuff (or exterior, even) not sticking cooperatively, get out the big guns and it's done more or less for life.

[@BarryHull]

Thank you, because like you said at the end of your video if I continue to use the wrong caulk my life will be complete despair and misery and hopelessness. So thanks! And of course thumbs up! 🙂

[@colsh_1]

Guy at Lowe’s recommended the far right one and swore to me it would make my project look amazing. Instantly cracked on my window trip and the paint even cracked over the caulk. So annoying. I should have stuck to my gut and picked the flex one I had in my hand before he recommended hot garbage.

[@kennethkendrick4795]

I wasn't aware of the variations associated with caulk specifications. Thanks for sharing your wisdom!

[@jimharvey9894]

Hey thanks ! I’ll be trying the dyno flex with an automotive application after cleaning up the bottom of the doors. I guess we shall see Painting over a thin layer. It has to better than primer. Guess I’ll find out. Very helpful video with the sticks test.

[@sandyv2195]

Your videos are the BEST! Your clear teaching style, focus on what the viewer needs to know (vs extraneous / nice to know) , and conciseness are very much appreciated by this DIYer. Thank you!