Adapting Sewing Patterns for a Shorter Body: Petite Step-by-Step Tutorial

[@brendashenda4249]

Thank you so much for acknowledging that being petite is more than just hemming! I am also short through shoulder to bust. It is so hard to find upper clothing items!

[@melweismann]

This video is a little old but I still wanted to thank you for posting it - I'm 154cm, and have fuller hips, so I've always struggled when PURCHASING clothes that were designed for petites (as they tend to ignore fuller hips!), and also struggled with SEWING clothes for myself (I'm very much a beginner sewist and just the concept of altering an existing pattern was a bit overwhelming to me, but without making any alterations, none of the stuff I was making would fit right at all!)... I'd get frustrated with shopping for clothes, then I'd try to sew - I'd get frustrated with the sewing, and try to shop for clothes again - repeat, repeat, repeat. I think your video has actually shown me, "yes, it IS a little bit more complex, so it's no wonder that shops can't get the fit right, you're not crazy!" - and that also maybe I should just try drafting from scratch.

[@christinemartin9449]

Enjoyable and informative video as usual. I am 5'2" so have fitting problems. The biggest game changers for me are choosing a smaller size and doing a full bust adjustment. I don't feel that I have a full bust but in comparison to my upper chest it is. The other is doing a narrow shoulder adjustment, this has made my fit so much better. Thank you for your videos.

[@celiahaddon4087]

This is a perfect explanation of all my fitting problems. Pattern companies just don’t address this issue. Thank you very much.

[@ChriaraCass]

I think it’s about understand where on your body you’re shorter than the “average” or pattern draft. I often shorten between shoulder and bust point: it raises the underarm into the right spot on me (huge comfort improvement) but rarely do I need to shorten between bust point and waist. I also shorten a lot between waist and crotch and a bit between crotch and knee. The 1st time I made a pencil skirt with length removed above the crotch and below the crotch I was amazed at how comfortable it was to wear: the skirt didn’t bunch up around waist to get the widest part of the skirt at my hip/butt. All up I think it was 6cm removed in length for that skirt 😮 and then I made it 4 times 😂

[@katieb1836]

I would love to see a video on how you take a tuck across front, but not on back bodice. It hit me this weekend, that that is what I need to give me a much better fit. I do understand how that would be done on sleeve, but I can't wrap my head around how it would affect stripe or plaid matching. Thanks so much!

[@sewrenity_now]

Proportion is definitely key for good looking garments. It's also something that takes so much time to learn. I'm sure this will be an eye opener for some beginning sewists. Great information.

[@Thelaststitch]

That is my hope! I too struggled in the beginning understanding how the patterns needed to be adapted to fit my body, and as you say proportions is an important part of that puzzle!

[@mayzienicholson9059]

I need to fold out 5 cm between my bust and waist and 10 cm between the waist and hip at the least. I have never explored the high bust before because of the sleeve alteration. thank you ver much for this informative presentation.

[@howardgoldstein8290]

OMG...once again, you are right on target as to your choice of subject matter...I sew for both myself & my sister and we are both in our 70's now & started out as 5'2" & 5'8" respectively, which was short to begin with...but both have shrunk even more to 5' & 5'5" respectively.....luckily, I had extensive pattern drafting training at the Fashion Institute & constantly refer to one of the books I used in school...I find, as I said before, that whenever I use a new pattern I always make a muslin first...seems like a lot of work, but in the long run it really isn't...saves a lot of heartache...never want to ruin the lovely fabric purchased for a project, and the corrected muslin can be used over & over again for future makes...........

[@Thelaststitch]

Yes, putting in the effort beforehand is much more constructive than ending up with a garment that won't fit! Another reason why fast sewing is such a misleading concept. It must be fantastic to have the pattern drafting skills, that really is a super power .

[@sewingintrifocals-alisonde7778]

Hello, fellow petite. "The struggle is real", ha-ha. I am 5 feet 1 inch and shrinking!

[@Thelaststitch]

Hehe yes! This is a situation that amplify for sure, time is not our hands on this one!

[@happyshopper570]

i cant believe it!! no way!! I always thought you look about 5 ft 9 !! that just proves one thing, you know how to dress tall!! thanks for this i am 5 ft 3 too!

[@Thelaststitch]

Yay for a fellow 5 ft 3! And yes I do think that I avoid certain styles that makes me feel even shorter, it's at an subconscious level almost!

[@laurajones4088]

Johanna, you've provided excellent tips for making pattern alterations that apply to everyone. Whilst I'm not petite, I do have to take the proportions of the garment into consideration and make adjustments accordingly. I usually always change button placement, width of cuffs, etc. Having accurate measurements, both of one's body and the pattern pieces, as well as referring to pattern company websites and other information the pattern provides help with obtaining a better fitting garment. Thanks for sharing this useful info!

[@Thelaststitch]

Totally, we all need to get smart about how our bodies compare to the sizing of the pattern, regardless of height. So much focus is on the base things like waist, bust and hip, but there are so much more variable to the fitting puzzle as you say.

[@dorothyfielding8209]

Johanna. Great video. I would love to see the technique for dealing with shortening the shoulder to bust apex measurement and then dealing with the resulting change to the arm opening and any FBA that has to be done. Do you have a video, blog, or book that deals with this technique. Many thanks.

[@lenagralak9755]

With high of 158 cm I came to the same conclusions - shortening bodice above bust line is a necessity. Great video!

[@Thelaststitch]

Yes, I think a lot of us shorter folks have a fairly short upper body, my bust line sits really high too!

[@constancergarcia7258]

Thank you so much, I am 4' 7' . In major stores when I shop, I can wear children's sizes, junior sizes and petites. I though sewing my own clothing would make it easier. 😯 Then came the fitting issues with patterns!!! I also found out they don't make petite patterns!!!! 😐 I wish I could take a class for fitting petites!❤

[@tamannarahman2776]

i have the exact same issue!! i am 4' 9" - and kids clothes are NOT made for a grown woman's body! i started sewing to make my own clothes then just ended up even more frustrated with patterns. try the books "no patterns needed" and "diy couture" - its all based on using your own body measurements to make clothes from scratch, WITHOUT patterns. once you try a few of them, you can really easily start designing your own clothes and styles using the techniques

[@sheilaschulz349]

I'm 5'2" and store-bought clothes fit me poorly. I have so many fit issues that altering a tailored garment, especially a blazer, would essentially be a complete remake. Petite stores a little closer in lengths, but always too small in the front &/or too wide in the back, and even their proportions aren't always designed for petites, but just a shortened version of their regular lines. I started sewing 40 years ago, but no one taught me about proper fitting for various petite adjustments, only the one fold line on commercial patterns. I discovered only a couple of years ago that all the patterns I've bought are specifically for B Cup [2" differential between upper bust & full bust] and that I should have been cutting smaller sizes according to my upper bust, then making an FBA for an extra 2" or more. And then there's the narrow back & shoulders. And the sway back. And the full tummy. And the flat bum. Once I realized of my fit issues, I started looking for solutions. I found some, but not everything I wanted, so I enrolled in an online Fashion Design diploma! Not the best use of this much money for tuition, but I feel so empowered to make my own patterns from scratch, using custom measurements and proper proportions. I love designing and creating! And solving problems! If you can make or have someone make you a fitting toile, then you can make or adjust patterns to fit you as you like.

[@maryhull531]

Great video . I am petite too . Thank you .

[@KleinesMaunz]

Thank you so much for your tips. I never thought I was petite as I am 178cm tall. But I found out that my upper Body is too short in patterns all the time. So I have to usually shorten patterns in the upper Body and lengthen the pants.

[@colettebramwell-colyer]

I have to do many of these alterations. I am 5ft 2in. And also have sway back. Fitting can be a bit tricky. However it is worth it as many clothing items in the stores do not fit me well and will need fixing anyway.

[@marycrecelius113]

That was a great video..lots of great tips..i am learning to fit..my friend is petite and i want to fit her patterns for her but it was the first time i have encountered adjustments for petite..i am learning🙃..i have to shorten alot of areas for her..thankyou for the video♡

[@katieharris412]

Great video with lots of helpful advice. Now I know why regular pattern necklines were way too sexy. I needed to shorten the pattern above the bust as well. Keep up the good work.

[@Thelaststitch]

Thank you! Yes a deep neckline is usually an area that we almost always have to adjust, sometimes my entire front bra piece is showing!

[@yukiostrachan2048]

Thank you so much for this video. I am 5 foot 2 and fitting for commercial patterns is giving me headaches.

[@sewquest2349]

Great video and so timely! I am trying to make a blouse and am encountering the same fitting issues. Thank you for confirming my thoughts on what I need to do. Love your channel!

[@myralorraine]

Great tips Johanna! You are so inspiring and help us stay on track!

[@Thelaststitch]

Thank you so much Myra!

[@janetrodgers8473]

Great tips Johanna, at 4'10" they are all relevant to me, as you can imagine . Thank you so much for your clear instructions,yet again.

[@Thelaststitch]

Thank you! Yes we are quite a few shorter sewists, and it's rare that we can get away with zero adjustments on a pattern :-)

[@physioontheriver7325]

Very useful blog. I’m 5 foot 2 1/2 so similar to you and quite short waisted too. Thanks!

[@Thelaststitch]

Thank you! Yes being short waisted seems quite common among us shorter folks, and getting that alteration right makes a big impact for sure

[@estelanunezchannel]

awesome tips ,that's why i like to draft my own patterns 💞😘

[@Thelaststitch]

Oh yes, that helps a lot!

[@Lady9tails]

Great information, thank you so much.

[@AmeliaranneStiggins]

Such good tips!! I'm just under 5' and so far have only really shortened the lower body of things but I'm heading to my latest pattern to put a little fold in the boob area! I have always seen you and thought you were a tall person lol x

[@nevaolaughlin8630]

I am trying to sew for my dil and she is 4'9"( I am 6' so NOT the right way for me to alter!~) This was very informative. She also has a 44 bust but a very petite frame. I truly think I need a pattern drafting class to get her to a good fit but I am still plugging away at it. I have been very successful in altering her jean jacket (store bought) so her sleeves are the right length. But she still is unable to close it. A project I am considering only after I have successfully fitted a shirt to her body. Definitely she will need a full bust adjustment. But I digress. thanks for this info.

[@MeganTuffley]

Oh I'm the same! My bust is way higher than most people. I'm short waisted too. I'm also 5 ft 3 in. Fortunately, my legs are relatively long as are my arms....

[@sewingintrifocals-alisonde7778]

Very enlightening, too

[@sewtania4074]

I am 5' 6" and a bit/169cm with 24"/61cm long arms and 31"/79cm inseam and a very long back crotch, by no means short but my upper body between shoulder and bust is super short and my arms are extremely skinhy. My upper body length btw shoulder and bust is not represented in the smallest size on most patterns, including all of the big 4. I need to reduce front and back armscye through the bodice, normally the back more than the front, reduce the sleeve cap height, adjust the facings and collar accordingly, reduce the neck circumference and sleeve width especially at the wrist. I cannot be bothered with princess seams because there would be far too many adjusments. It took me a long time to figure this out because patterns rarely ever have shorten lines through the armscye and this area is not as big a focus as many others in fitting books and web posts. Thank you for sharing.

[@Thelaststitch]

Figuring out how our bodies deviate from standard sizing is such a game changer, isn't it? And I hear you on the hassle of having to do so many upper body alterations, and once we start tampering with the armscye, so many other adjustments follow. I too am not fond of princess seams for the same reasons, they are very hard to fit right when many alterations are required.

[@sewtania4074]

@@Thelaststitch The irony is that princess seems are stated to be the easiest to fit in many books, on websites, patterns and by other sewists.

[@Thelaststitch]

Interesting, I don't agree, especially since one needs to redraft the curves after alteration and hope that the pieces will line up nicely which is not always easy

[@margaretsteel8766]

Great advice. And you're right petite people have smaller bones.

[@Thelaststitch]

Thank you for the confirmation! A smaller bone structure does seem to correlate with shorter height. All the short women in my family have smaller bones too.

[@jennifer6278]

So helpful! Thank you

[@donnab6391]

We are the same height! And my daughter, too. This will be helpful for sewing for both of us.

[@Thelaststitch]

Yay, good to hear! My two daughters are also short and it really helps when sewing for them, that I understand what alterations is needed. They think I do a great job with the fit :-)

[@tsnell80]

I am 4”10 hourglass. Thanks for the tips

[@k3of5ks]

This is so good. Thank you!!!

[@Thelaststitch]

Happy to hear you found it useful!

[@charlottehogberg9855]

I have so much trouble with a fold always appearing on my back. It seems my torso is shorter in the back than in the front. It’s so difficult because you can’t see very well the alterations you need to do when it’s in the back, and also how do you align it when you don’t adjust the front bodice pieces?

[@inkblue28]

I am the same height, I have to shorten the waist line 1 inch, but I actually have to lower the bust darts about an inch. I have to do this 90% of the time and shorten the sleeves one inch. Now that I know this, I realized why I look so weird in waist defining dresses. Only Aline dresses for me.

[@Thelaststitch]

Understanding our proportions and how they relate to how we fit in garments is so enlightening, and sewing really gives us a super power in that area!

[@judynull211]

I am trying to alter a dolman sleeve and make it a petite.It has a yoke.It seems as if I pinch it up 2 inches on the shoulder it fits better How can I make the pattern petite? It also has too much wrinkles at armholes I made a practice shirt out of muslin.Im using pattern McCall's M7359

[@lizbethdavern53]

great video! thank you!! Torso is my big problem. i'm 2" shorter than you. :-)

[@Thelaststitch]

Oh I feel you, and a torso is kinda tricky to adjust, so many ins and outs

[@laurabennicelli619]

I’m 5’0” tall and weigh 100 lbs. It’s hard to find information on adjusting for not only short, but also very small-boned people.

[@faithsewmore]

I am petite in the same areas that you mentioned. However, I am muscular and hips & bust are 10 inches larger than my waist. Very difficult to sew for myself.

[@Thelaststitch]

Oh I can understand that! Perhaps adjusting a few base patterns, and then use them as templates when making new garments would be a good idea? Having to alter each pattern a lot can definitely be very cumbersome

[@faithsewmore]

@@Thelaststitch yes! I agree. I lead a sewing workshop and teach that to my students. Eventually, I will do it for myself. I have sew many projects right now, like my daughter's wedding dress, but I will make time after that.

[@adailydaughter6196]

Why when I type in "patterns for TALL women" do I get this 😭

[@hauntedshadowslegacy2826]

(casually cries in 4'11) One of the patterns I recently got expects my neck-to-waist measurement to be about five inches longer than I have. I've also gotta figure out how to get more fabric around mah knockers, cuz I guess women in the 80s just... didn't have any??? Gah, I have two different measurements going to two different extremes.

[@KSMP]

Awww that's so cute that everyone thinks 3" below average height is "petite". What would five foot me be? Munchkin??

[@constancergarcia7258]

Thank you so much, I am 4' 7' . In major stores when I shop, I can wear children's sizes, junior sizes and petites. I though sewing my own clothing would make it easier. 😯 Then came the fitting issues with patterns!!! I also found out they don't make petite patterns!!!! 😐 I wish I could take a class for fitting petites!❤