How to Properly Size Your Selvedge Denim

[@jeffgrantMEDIA]

What's your favorite pair of selvedge?

[@valhala73]

@@jeffgrantMEDIA Raw Japanese Self-edge denim from Nudie

[@jeffgrantMEDIA]

@@valhala73 I need to try a pair of Nudies.

[@tjmath37]

I only own one pair and it’s the unbranded 301

[@stefanhnavetsea1588]

I think jeans that fit as raw, even when they shrink to be tight on your waist or leg, you can safely wear it to stretch out again without making the fiber too thin because it come as raw that way. I have a downsized raw that was fitting me nice and with some room, but being 21z and unsanforized it shrank into too small for my hip bone, so I have to wet it again and wear it from wet to dry over several washing cycle until the fibers is stabilized and no longer shrinking nor stretching because it has settled into my required size, and I have no blowout or failed construction after 5 years.

[@jeffgrantMEDIA]

@@stefanhnavetsea1588 buy sanforized jeans that fit you. DO NOT buy them to small and expect them to stretch to fit. Yes they will stretch, but. It as much as you think. And it will weaken the denim and wear out much faster. Shrink to fit is a whole different ball game. And one I do not play.

[@iain42]

Great video. When I find my brand I am loyal but I haven't yet... Bought Gustin straight and the rise is for a small Japanese person. The waist I have figured out. I hate the cuff but I can take care of that. The question is what selvege has a realistic rise or crotch...? I don't want to show off that much lol. I love gustin but they don't work on me. Any brands fit better there??? Am I the only one with this issue?????

[@jeffgrantMEDIA]

@@iain42 i found Gustin to fit really well in the straight cut. But the best fit for me had been the Iron Heart 634’s. Those are just a magical Jean. Expensive for sure, but worth it. And you’ll have them for a decade at least, so cost per wear is Pennie’s in the dollar.

[@iain42]

@@jeffgrantMEDIA Getting the fit through measuring and ordering is a crapshoot. This is why I am loyal to a brand once I get the sizing right. I'll check out the Iron Heart 634. I emailed gustin and they are looking at custom options. Which is interesting. Gustin is a cool company.

[@romxxii]

I bought a pair of size 35 Pure Blue Japan straight cut. According to their size chart, it should be 85.6 cm at the waist, or 33". After two months of use with one machine wash and one cold water hand-wash, the current waist diameter is more like 37. So either it _really_ stretched out, or sizing charts are still unreliable and it's better to test-fit on-site.

[@jeffgrantMEDIA]

@@romxxii I’m very never had jeans stretch out that much. They were probably tagged wrong.

[@edwingonzalez7691]

If you haven't already, give it a hot wash and dry! You don't have to worry too much as denim is a strong material. I have a pair of Oni's that stretch out a good amount but they always shrink up when I hot wash. Even snugger than the original measurements, but otherwise that is way too much stretch and likely was a mislabel from the factory

[@jeffgrantMEDIA]

@@edwingonzalez7691 only hot wash and use a drier if you jeans are too big. Once you do, there is no going back. Jeans will stretch back out some. But if you liked the fit pre wash, chances are they will not fit like that again.

[@valhala73]

Amazing video !! I used to wear 32-30 in my Raw self-edge Nudies but I went up in weight and won't fit me anymore. I didn´t even wash them jet!!! Could you help me to figure out my size? I am wearing 33-32 from Uniqlo ,the Raw model with a bit of stretch but they are a little tight .... All the best

[@jeffgrantMEDIA]

Uniqlo appears to follow vanity sizing. So their 33” waist is actually 35.5” waist. So maybe try a size 34 vanity (36.5” waist) or get yourself something that is a 36” waist in a non vanity size pants if your jeans are a little tight.

[@valhala73]

@@jeffgrantMEDIA How do I know when is a non vanity sized jeans? I heard this expression for the first time in your video…🧐

[@jeffgrantMEDIA]

@@valhala73 check the size chart in each pair of jeans you are interested in. It will give you the measurements for that particular pair or cut. Vanity sizing is usually 2.5” larger than the taged size. Selvedge is about 50/50 with vanity sizing and actual measurements

[@dark_gravity_edc]

I wear a 33x34 or 16.5x34 flat. That's what matters. I am a clothing reseller as a hobby, and I own numerous "denim" brands. Iron Heart, Naked and Famous, Railcar, Grease Point, Bravestar, Gustin, Pure Blue, in addition to all of your Mall brands. And I mean all mall brands. They're all inconsistent with actual size and tag size. Having owned and worn thousands of different jeans. But your actual size of you never intend to wash them. Go up about half a size of you do plan on washing them. Use their size guides. They typically update them with each lot. You can also get them measured if you use one of the better retailers. I personally use Iron Shop Provisions. They'll tape the item you're wanting to ensure it meets your needs.

[@jeffgrantMEDIA]

Good point. Many small shops will measure each tagged size for you. Iron Heart International will also measure each pair of jeans or jacket for you if you shoot them an email. I wish I knew that before I bought my 526j. It fits well now that it is broken in. But I would have been nice to have a slightly larger jacket at first.

[@dark_gravity_edc]

@@jeffgrantMEDIA i also should have mentioned. Vintage clothing should be treated the same. Size tag is irrelevant.

[@romxxii]

I bought jeans half a size up because I was afraid washing them would shrink them too much. They didn't end up shrinking at all even after I machine-washed one of them. If anything, it stretched out.

[@jeffgrantMEDIA]

@@romxxii they were probably tagged wrong. I’ve than happened plenty of times. A good practice ( and one I don’t do myself but should) is always take a measurement when you first get them before any wear.

[@ROB-12013]

Does a pair of raw selvedge 40% polyester 60% cotton shrink after soaking in the tub and line drying?

[@jeffgrantMEDIA]

@@ROB-12013 if it’s raw the cotton would ok shrink. But that’s a lot of Polly, so the shrinkage will be minimal if heat is added they will shrink more.

[@ROB-12013]

@@jeffgrantMEDIA I'm looking at Gustin Japan Red Fire jeans which have 40% polyester. Not sure why some jeans need polyester or what is accomplished with that material but like the Japan Red Fire look a lot! I buy size 42 Levi's but can still wear my size 40. They say the jeans will stretch 1/2" and according to the size guide size 40 works for me especially if only half the shrinkage and some stretch with wear. Thanks for your reply! I am just trying to decide if I should pass on polyester jeans now for comfort or some other unforeseen future buyers remorse for not getting 100% cotton for my first ever pair of selvedge jeans.

[@jeffgrantMEDIA]

@@ROB-12013 if they are your first pair of selvage, I would go 100% Cotten and 14-16.5 oz. If you are a bit worried, something with a little bit of stretch might work as well. Like the flint and tinder stretch selvage. I have a video on those if you are interested. I only have the Gustin #75 Okayama STd I. This video. But I can say these are great! These would be a great first pair of selvedge. I suspect the Polly being used is how they get some of these really cool colors they are offering.

[@jasonrhodes1486]

Does the vanity sizing affect the length too?

[@jeffgrantMEDIA]

@@jasonrhodes1486 good question. No it does not. Vanity size affects waist only. The inseam will be the length marked. Though as alway with garments there can be a slight variance. Meaning a jean labels 32” length may be a. It shorter or longer depending on the fabric when sewn.

[@yassver]

I got nudie raw selvage lean dean. My body shape is slightly thicker thigh area. So they are pretty tight on the hips. Pockets can be used but they are tight. They’re not too uncomfortable, but my thoughts were it would only need to stretch a little to work. My waist is fine (I got 32 inch waist and I’m usually 32 or 33). When I usually get 33 jeans in other styles they stretch a lot and get loose but I can still wear them with a belt. Did I get the right size? I’m hoping they stretch a little in the hips.

[@jeffgrantMEDIA]

@@yassver I’m depends on the denim, but they will stretch a little bit. My Brave Star Uppercuts are still a little tight in the thigh, but after a few months they did stretching enough to make them pretty comfortable to wear. If they are not terribly uncomfortable now, you should get little bit of stretch need.

[@kevinbarrett9615]

Not a fan of the giant cuff, but each to their own.

[@jeffgrantMEDIA]

I also prefer a smaller cuff, but selvage generally comes in 36” inseam. I have no good local seamstress and certainly no one who can chain stitch. So at 5’9” I need to make a larger cuff.

[@cheddarbuttersworth2441]

A sanforized pair of raw denim is still considered raw most of the time.

[@jeffgrantMEDIA]

@@cheddarbuttersworth2441 I have never heard anyone call sanforized denim raw. It has been treated in some way, so it’s here for not raw.

[@upshiftgo]

Why is every video about these pants Every single person has them rolled up on the bottom?

[@jeffgrantMEDIA]

@@upshiftgo two reasons, you buff to show off the selvage ID and most selvage only comes in a 36” inseam