Developing a Roll of Film in the Darkroom

[@elliotmarks06]

As someone who is just getting into film photography, you have no idea how helpful your channel has been! These videos are by far the most comprehensive and beginner-friendly on KZbin. Thank you so much for the help!!!

[@DudeOnASkateboard]

Truly, the "Heisenberg" of film photographers.

[@AZFrank4x4]

I've always preferred the circle 8 agitation and a tap, then rocking it back and forth. Just basically I feel the rocking motion will over agitate and can create more air bubbles. Thanks for a great series, looking forward to watching more of your series.

[@abdlaware]

thank you for helping me develop my first roll of film

[@lukemakayabu4369]

Hi Naked, if its not too much to ask, kindly make a development by inspection video?

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

Its on my list

[@lukemakayabu4369]

@@TheNakedPhotographer thanks mate, please expose the link . . . cant find it

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

There isn’t a link. I haven’t made the video yet, it is on my list of future videos.

[@lukemakayabu4369]

@@TheNakedPhotographer thanks mate, I think u should setup patreon ~ great work you sharing with us

[@peterfarr9591]

It may be totally unnecessary but I do water with a few inversions between stop bath and fixer, mostly because I don't like getting stop bath in my fixer. I found before I did this that my fixer would yellow over time

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

The acidity of the stop bath helps the fixer keep its pH. The yellowing is not going to hurt anything.

[@peterfarr9591]

@@TheNakedPhotographer wouldn't a water stop bath do the same thing then? If the concern is just that the risidual developer would effect the ph of the fixer, wouldn't simply using water cycles to remove risidual developer be equally effective?

[@peterfarr9591]

Or do you think that even neutral water would negatively influence the fixer pH by itself, and that there needs to be residual acidity before the fixer is poured in?

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

Exactly, water is neutral pH, soft water is slightly alkaline. Stop bath keeps the fixer pH from lowering. Water would still drop the pH, albeit more slowly

[@elina_rast]

Just discovered your channel lately. Thank you for the great informative videos, it helps a lot!

[@santiagodonald9170]

i guess it's kind of off topic but does anyone know of a good place to watch new series online ?

[@mathewwesson1566]

@Santiago Donald I watch on Flixzone. Just search on google for it :)

[@orionjaxton7638]

@Santiago Donald i use Flixzone. You can find it by googling =)

[@josecaffarena4269]

Between kodak D-76 and Xtol, which do you prefer and why? Which is sharper and has better acutance? Thanks you so much for all these interesting videos!

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

I like Xtol. I feel I get finer grain that stays sharp. I also get better film speed from it.

[@josecaffarena4269]

@@TheNakedPhotographer Sorry, I am starting with film, what do you mean by "get better film speed from it"? you mean that with Xtol I can extend development time to increase shadow detail without losing control of the highlight detail? or is about some developers are better than others in pushing? sorry I am confuse in this aspect. Thanks!

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

No, I mean if I am using a film that says 400 ISO on the box, I will get good shadows setting my meter at 400 instead of needing to slightly over expose by setting my meter at 320 ISO.

[@josecaffarena4269]

@@TheNakedPhotographer Oh I see, better shadow detail with box speed, thanks!

[@nicklk132]

can you reuse stop bath, fixer, and photo flo?

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

I use indicator stop until it changes color. I use no more than 25 rolls of film per liter of fixer (I mark it on the bottle as I go). I will toss Photo-flo after all the film for the day is done.

[@nicklk132]

@@TheNakedPhotographer thank you so much!

[@basssoundgamingxp]

Quick question when using Blix with film, there are different times on the manual (6 minutes, 10 minutes and 15 ) what does the extra times mean? is that for a more secure fixture?

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

It may be at different temperatures. Normally C41 is performed at 100F (38.4C) for 6:30, but at colder temperatures that time should be extended, though I process all my color at 100F. And I use separate bleach and fix.

[@albertogarcia1386]

You just told something about something weird that happened to me with hp5 film and I couldn't find out why. I shoot a roll of hp5 last winter in Spain, after being store in the fridge for two weeks ( at minimum temperature ) I decided to develop it, to my surprise!! while I was trying to pull out the roll from the reloadable canister I found that the film was stuck together in between layers. When I could get it into the reel and I developed it I have got really bad stripes in the negatives. I tried to find out what I did wrong but in the blogs the people could not help and Ilford didn't response me to the email I sent them. Do you know something about this? Thanks.

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

Most likely moisture got into the canister and made the film stick together.

[@albertogarcia1386]

@@TheNakedPhotographer Thanks for your message. That is what I thought. Is there any solution? I thought to put it in water but it can be hard to get it into the regular reels after that. I suppose using a JOBO reel could help otherwise I will have to let it dry overnight in the bathroom.

[@jacovanlith5082]

Gelatine on the backside of the film ???

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

Yes, some manufacturers, such as Kodak, put a thin coat on the base side to give it a retouchable surface. Not every film, and not every size/format.

[@MyJuancho2010]

GOOD ..

[@jacovanlith5082]

Do paint yoir darkroom WHITE.

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

No

[@jacovanlith5082]

James Bond 007 in the photo lab, Shaken not stirred the Kodak developer You must be joking the way you process the film Since the digital pjotographers have duscovered the analog photography, the photo lab has become a play garden . Kodak did not advise to move the tank so rud, fast and frequent Mind the cavitation problem of the liquid.,

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

I did not “discover” film after learning digital. I hold both a bachelor’s and masters in photography from before digital was widespread. I follow Kodak’s agitation methods as published in the last version of their Dataguide. Just because you don’t like doesn’t mean it’s incorrect.