Developing C41 Color Negative Film

This video will demonstrate how to develop color negative film, C-41 at home. While I am using a Jobo processor, the same steps can be followed with a simple hand tank. The directions come from:
Kodak Z-131 imaging.kodakal...
and
Kodak CIS-211 125px.com/docs...
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[@randallstewart175]

Finally, someone who knows what he is doing and why he is doing it. This is probably the only video on YT which shows the full C-41 process rather than the condensed and somewhat compromised kits like Tetenal. I'd love to see a serious comparison made of the difference in results quality between the "official" C-41 process and the kits.

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

Thank you for the kind words! I may do a brand comparison one day, but I will definitely do a temperature comparison to show the differences.

[@TristanColgate]

The one difference I've seen mentioned, that makes some sense to me, is that blix (Vs separate bleach and fix), might have significantly shorter shelf life. I opted for the Bellini 4 bath kit for this reason (plus I like the bottles they supply, they are sturdy and should be good for reusing)

[@TwelveFrames]

Glad I am not the only one who bursts into song when they are exhausted. And thank you for showing the detailed steps for color processing. My only reasoning for not giving it s try was because it seemed intimidating compared to black and white.

[@seacat211]

Thank you for your always very educational videos. With this video as a guide, I can now develop own color negative film. Now I'm currently doing trial and error to see if I can do 2-stop push processing development. I tried extending the development time by 1.5 per stop, but the entire negative became too dark... I once saw a video where you create RA-4 prints by bypassing the bleaching step and developing them again to increase the contrast. I tried to apply this to the push processing development of negative film, but sometimes it was successful, and other times it became too dark and I couldn't get a stable result. I would love for you to create a video explaining the push processing of the C-41 process someday when you have time.

[@GreyGhost-r4z]

I use a portable Sous Vide machine to keep my chems at constant temperature in a clear water tray. Works great.

[@ChesterSmith-i9u]

I'm a little late to the party but my question is this, do you get better images on your negative when you develope film at home? I learned how to calibrate my film to my camera and chemicals and I get the best black and white negatives possible.

[@derekkonigsberg2047]

I find it interesting that these Kodak instructions direct one-shot use of the developer. Most of the other instructions I've read (including the Fuji kit I'm currently using) seem to assume developer reuse.

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

The document I reference uses one shot, but many others, particularly Z-131, go through the entire replenishment routine.

[@derekkonigsberg2047]

So I'm re-reading the instructions for my Fuji C-41 kit. It does actually say to use the developer once "to maintain professional standards". But it also gives a big chart showing that you can re-use quite a bit (16-24 rolls "per process", depending on film size/type, then increasing the development time for each subsequent "process" batch). Regardless, after watching your video, I'm tempted to switch over to one-shot. Not just to play it safe, but also to get through this batch of chemicals a bit faster. Of course once I do get a Jobo, I can be more efficient with chemistry and one-shot will feel less wasteful.

[@nathankaso]

Thank you so much for making this video, I've used it as a guide for processing C41 in my JOBO CPE3 with fantastic results. In regards to the bleach, do you know what the capacity is if you don't replenish it? I have mixed 5L and wondering how many rolls I can process before it is exhausted. Thanks!

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

It can last almost indefinitely. It needs to be oxygenated occasionally, so shake it vigorously every so often.

[@TristanColgate]

Maybe a silly question, but do you think exact temp control would be critical for chromogenic films (e.g. xp2). With no curves to drift, it feels like i could be a little more slack (i actually quite like it in regular B&W chems, but i have some c41 chems for some colour rolls, and thought maybe i should try some xp2 first, to work out my process, and that it should be more forgiving as i work things out).

[@edward_grabczewski]

Aquarium heaters typically only heat up to 34 C (94 F). I have found a photographic heater by Novatronic that goes up to 42 C.

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

I use a sous vide device now. It heats accurately and circulates the water efficiently.

[@edward_grabczewski]

@@TheNakedPhotographer Thanks for the tip! I've never seen a sous vide heater before but it look ideal. You can even get containers that have cut-outs and they look deep enough for bottles. BTW I saw a video that recommended using a foot spa!

[@edward_grabczewski]

@@TheNakedPhotographer I forgot to ask, which make and model of sous vide do you use?

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

I bought the cheapest one I could find on Amazon. Klarstein is the brand. It’s $60 now, but it was $40 when I got it.

[@edward_grabczewski]

@@TheNakedPhotographer Thank you. I'm impressed with the approach in your videos. You can really demonstrate the theory!

[@pooryamomtazfar998]

a real professional video about c41. thanks.

[@gerardodalchielelueiro6818]

Please could you tell me about all the steps indicating the chemicals and the time to process??? I will be very thankful Best regards from ARGENTINA

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

Developer 3:15, bleach 6:15, water rinse 2:00, fixer 6:15, water wash 5:00, final rinse 1:00

[@gerardodalchielelueiro6818]

thank for the information@@TheNakedPhotographer

[@justinreeders2541]

Hey mate, great video. I am only just starting to develop my own colour film. Your video helped me understand the process quite a bit. One question I have, what strength do you mix up the stop bath too. My Kodak Stop bath is about 1.5% Glacial acid for B&W film, but I have seen 3% recommended for C41 (from Tetenal instructions apparently). Just wondering what you use?

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

Same as b&w.

[@jmuldoon1]

Great video. Quick question: what rotation speed do you use on the Jobo?

[@danfloresmusic]

Kodak Z131 states that bleach should not be used beyond its capacity (1 litre for 10 4x5 sheets) and should not be replenished. I am using stop bath before Flexicolor RA Bleach Replenisher NR on a jobo. According to Kodak, I’m using the bleach to it’s maximum capacity on a single use. Would you recommend replenishing and reusing for that type of bleach? Bleach starter is so expensive in Mexico :( Thanks!

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

I use Kodak Bleach III and have no direct experience with the RA line. Follow the replenisher guidelines for that product and keep an eye on the results to make sure it is behaving properly.

[@danfloresmusic]

Hi! Excellent video, thanks for sharing. Can I use the same stop batch for BnW on C41? I use ilfostop. I bought in Mexico the following chemicals: Kodak LORR developer Replenisher and starter, Flexicolor RA fixer Replenisher, bleach Replenisher and starter and stabilizer to be used on a Jobo. Would you re-use the developer or use it as one shot? Thanks !

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

That stop bath is fine, use a water rinse afterwards before the bleach step. The Jobo introduces too much oxygen into the developer so use it only once for the most consistent results.

[@danfloresmusic]

The Naked Photographer thanks so much!

[@stealthvanlife6867]

Thanks for making this video. I have developed a fair amount of C-41 in my Jobo, but always with the Tetenal kits. I like the idea of using the Kodak C-41 chemicals. I want to make sure I am clear, so could you please review this to make sure I am buying the correct chemicals? I researched these on the Freestyle Photo website. Kodak Flexicolor C-41 Developer, Kodak Flexicolor Bleach III, Kodak Flixicolor Fixer & Replenisher. I see that Kodak also makes a FlexiColor Final Rinse, but I assume this is not needed as per your process? I keep citric acid on hand, what dilution do you suggest for the stop bath? Thanks again.

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

I use Final Rinse. A standard dilution stop bath works perfectly fine, just follow with a water rinse so you don’t throw off the bleach pH.

[@stealthvanlife6867]

​@@TheNakedPhotographer Hi, thanks for the reply. I must have thought the Kodak Final Rinse step was just a water rinse. Are you using the Kodak Final Rinse after the Fixer and before the archival wash I assume? Also, since the Kodak FlexiColor C-41 chemicals make up so much volume, any insight on proper methods for storage after opening the containers? And what about the shelf life of the Kodak FlexiColor C-41 chemicals after opening the containers? Thanks again for this amazing content.

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

Final Rinse is just that, the last thing to touch the film before hanging to dry. I mix the fixer as I need it, the bleach is mixed and stored in a large (10liter) container, the day before I intend to use it I drop in an aquarium aeration thing to get oxygen in it. The developer is mixed and stored in several glass bottles (500ml or 1 liter) with a lid that seals well. I would like to say none of it goes to waste, but I don’t shoot as much color as I would like to use all of the developer before it goes bad. But stored this way it lasts 6 months.

[@stealthvanlife6867]

@@TheNakedPhotographer Thank you. Exactly what I needed. I appreciate your time and for making these videos. Very helpful.

[@JHuntPhotography0]

New Is part A, B, and C included in the Kodak 5L Flexicolor LU Developer Replenisher?

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

Yes, everything is included except the water. There is debate whether you need to use “starter” or not. I do and got a bottle from Unique Photo, but others skip it. Your color may be a little different since the developer is essentially over active without starter, but if you do it the same way every time then you will be consistent at least.

[@domenicming9551]

Thanks for the video! How come no Stablizer?

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

You can use either stabilizer or final rinse as the last step. These are different than Photo-flo

[@Raumweiter]

i love your channel, thanks for sharing.

[@bebox7]

Thanks for your great videos as always - it so hard to find anything high quality about C41 darkroom developing or printing on KZbin. I have read so much about whether to use stabiliser or not and have always used it in the Rollei kits but I notice you left out that step. I have heard that it is not necessary with the newer films and I use Portra 400 exclusively but I am always worried about not using it especially over the long term?

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

I use Kodak Final Rinse, it is used in place of stabilizer. They perform similar functions. Whether you use one or the other, you need to use it.

[@bebox7]

@@TheNakedPhotographer Thanks very much for the reply - much appreciated.

[@unityoc]

If you think it's hard to find KZbin videos about C-41, try E-6 and RA-4! ;)

[@domenicming9551]

@@TheNakedPhotographer Thanks for sharing and for the question bebox. How do you know final rinse is the same as stabilizer.. actually not the same but "similar"? what are the differences and similarities? And where did you learn about this?

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

I learned about it from one of the engineers at Kodak that invented it. I’m not a chemist, so I couldn’t begin to tell you what’s in them.

[@youbuscemi]

Hi, have been enjoying your videos as I have recently switched from hand tank to Jobo in C41. I am still struggling to get good results so would like to ask a couple of questions. For amount of chemicals, especially your Flexicolor LU Developer, do you follow Jobo's minimum volume of tank or Kodak's capacity (on Z-131)? Also do you use Starter for your Developer and Bleach? Lastly, what is your replenishing method for Bleach?

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

I use the Jobo recommendations, but more solution wouldn’t hurt. I use a starter for the developer, but not bleach. I mixed up 8 liters of bleach and have it in a large container. I pour the used bleach back into the container and keep track of the number of rolls/sheets that run through it. When I have reached max capacity I will replace it or regenerate it.

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

What problems are you experiencing?

[@youbuscemi]

@@TheNakedPhotographer Thank you so much for your quick and friendly response! I had been processing with MOD54/regular reels in tank with Cinestill CS41 kit with good results. When I decided to upgrade to CPP2, I also switched to entire Kodak chemicals. At the beginning, I mistakenly purchased "Flexicolor Developer replenisher", which I believe you can't get a starter for anymore. So use it straight, and have got a pretty dense negative. Then I tried Flexicolor LU Developer with its starter. I followed Kodak minimum capacity just in case (500ml per 120 Portra400). It still seems a bit denser negative compared to Cinestill Kit so I was wondering if I am using too much amount of solutions per film. BTW, I followed all process with Z-131 so that no prewash but only preheat and no stop bath-wash until after Fixer.

[@youbuscemi]

@@TheNakedPhotographerIf I follow Jobo's capacity, my tanks can accommodate up to 8 rolls of 120 with the max solution load for CPP2's motor is 1000ml, it would only be 125ml per roll. Then if I follow Kodak's one, I can develop only up to 2 rolls per session with use of 1000ml. No idea which I can believe.

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

I understand the confusion. The volume from Kodak is for a sink line, it later says a smaller volume may be used for rotary and to check the rotary processor manual for volume amounts. I agree that 125ml per roll seems low, so I would probably stick with 6 rolls per liter. The developer would need to be discarded after one use due to oxidation. You cannot use too much volume in response to your added density. Most likely your cinestill negatives were underdeveloped compared to Kodak.

[@acidsnow5915]

what an interesting and insightful video with a quirky concept! great channel! thanks for sharing all this great content with us! always appreciate watching videos like this!

[@mamiyapress]

As Kodak is not a common C41 developer could you do an update video with a more accessible C41 kit.

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

No. It’s what I use. Other than mixing, they all operate the same.

[@Raevenswood]

@@TheNakedPhotographer except for the fact that most of the kits are not one shot developers. With the majority of the kits you can develop 20-30 rolls from one liter of developer with time extension.

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

And at a sacrifice in quality. I may touch on this in future videos

[@Raevenswood]

@@TheNakedPhotographer it's pretty easy to take a roll of 35mm film and shoot 36 exposures of a color card and then cut it up into pieces and do test development to look for color shifts before you use old developer. if you get a shift it's time to ditch the developer. It's a lot easier with E6 but it can be done with C41 also.

[@danielrois4548]

Are the chemicals that you're using the ones listed in that 2005 CIS-211? If so, where did you find that developer? There's a 2010 update to that CIS-211 that calls for SM everything, developer, bleach, fixer. I'm trying to decipher and buy some c-41 flexicolor but can't find the developer. Do you develop also roll film? Thank you for making this video, it's really helpful!

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

It is not necessary to get the SM kits. I currently get the Kodak Flexicolor LU kit from Unique Photo. It makes 5 liters and is relatively cheap. The SM line is discontinued, but LU is readily available. Same processing steps and times are used.

[@juliancalvetti2557]

Thanks for sharing this! Would you help me? Well, I bought C-41RA chemicals for developing at home, I can't get good results, mainly (when I scan the negatives) I can see like a blueish (or cyan) haze on it. I don't really know if I'm using wrong times (I use another manual, not the one that you shared). Maybe temperature can change the color? I don't have a really good thermometer. Thanks so much!!

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

C41 is very temperature sensitive. It needs to be 100F within 0.25 degrees. Time must be exactly 3:15. These ensure that all three color layers develop to the same contrast at the same time. Otherwise you get color cross over which can show as a color cast or yellow highlights with blue shadows. But your scanning also can have an effect.

[@juliancalvetti2557]

@@TheNakedPhotographer Okay, but what about the time you use filling up the tank? Does it matter? , When should I start the timer? Thanks!

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

I start my timer once the tank is full and I spend the last 10 seconds of my time draining the tank

[@juliancalvetti2557]

@@TheNakedPhotographer And I should filling the tank with bleach at 0:00 (end of developer timer)?

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

As soon as possible, yes

[@SilntObsvr]

Since you made this video, a new temperature control tool has appeared, vastly superior to the aquarium heater (many of which, these days, are intentionally made incapable of reaching 38C). You can spend more than this is you really feel the need, but I ordered a *sous vide* heater -- made for very-slow-cooking vacuum sealed foods like steaks and eggs at pretty low temperatures -- for just over $30 on eBay (less than most aquarium heaters); it has a 1000W heating element (so it can heat water fairly rapidly), can be set for temperatures from freezing to boiling (0C to 100C) and will accurately maintain temperature to about 0.5C accuracy. It includes a circulating pump, and a shutoff timer. I fill a tub (like a deep dishpan) with enough water to come above the minimum level for the *sous vide* and start the device (filling with preheated water from the tap saves considerable time). Stand my chemical bottles in the tub, and good to go. I dip water from the tub for the rinse steps in my C-41 processing (ensuring that the water is at the same temperature as everything else) and I can stand the tank in the tub, too, if it's full enough (otherwise, it floats and may tip over). I also use it when I process black and white film in Df96 monobath, which needs to be much warmer than the usual 20C for black and white chemistry (up to 90F or even higher, if you're pushing film with constant agitation). I swear on my enlarger head: I will *never* have a darkroom without a *sous vide* heater again!

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

I’m aware of them, but you sound like an infomercial.

[@stefanovalentino5727]

Hi! I live in japan and I want to develop film by myself and I already research for it. There is a lot of kits like tetenal kit, unicolor kit etc. But they don't sell it here. Instead they have Fujifilm Superprodol and Kodak D-76. How can I know the developing time needed if I cannot find the film series on digitaltruth.com? I have Fujifilm Superia Premium 400. Please help me. Thank you so much

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

If you are developing C41 film, then D76 is all wrong for you. That is a b&w developer. You need to look for Fuji’s CN-16 kit. All color negative film is processed at 38C for 3:15.

[@stefanovalentino5727]

@@TheNakedPhotographer Thank you so much for your help, it seems I have been researching for black and white films all the time. For color negative film developer, do they just sell in kits? Because I can't find any C41 or CN16 kits in here.

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

I don’t know what is available in Japan.

[@stefanovalentino5727]

@@TheNakedPhotographer Thank you so much! Your answer means a lot to me!

[@AAKFILMPRODUCTIONS]

is the color developer different than the developer used for RA-4 color printing?

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

Yes

[@shalvamikava65]

after developer you use stop bath? like ilfostop?

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

I have, but typically do not.

[@shalvamikava65]

The Naked Photographer i mean like you use normal bw stopper or special kinda of

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

I don’t use indicator stop bath, just the diluted 28% acetic acid type

[@bublt4me]

How big are your containers to hold all of these chemicals? Doesn't seem like they're suitable for home, personal use.

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

I don’t typically mix the full amount. I will make 2-3 liters at a time. This Kodak document describes how to mix smaller than package sized amounts: 125px.com/docs/techpubs/kodak/cis49-2009_12.pdf

[@NahuelBralo]

nice video, i use alt 2000 whit my program, whit c41 kodak chemicals, i do more bleach and fix, 7 min

[@severedsixteen]

GGGGRREAT!

[@jayerjavec]

What a scam, the guy is dressed not naked.