2012 Honda civic evaporator core and expansion valve replacement. Not a hard job to do.

[@SubBot285]

Is the temperature sensor also known as the thermister probe?

[@theoffroadingmechanic]

Yea basically a thermistor is a variable resistor that relies on temperature to change its resistance. The probe on the evap core is in the kilo ohms.

[@NoqZ]

Can I replace the sensor without taking off the core?

[@bluesteel5937]

do you need to add oil on the new evaporator core with pag46 40ml or is it not needed?

[@theoffroadingmechanic]

I add the oil with the machine after it goes through a vacuum and leak test.

[@coffeedollsvp]

What symptoms where there that would cause you to change out evap core?

[@theoffroadingmechanic]

Can't recall but I have many videos either they leak, bad txv valve or bad temperature sensor on the evap core.

[@smittysmitty4681]

What brand expansion valve did you use?

[@meltdownproductions5148]

is it really possible to access and swap out the heater core using this procedure? The only other methods I've seen involve removing the entire dash, this seems like a cheat code in comparison! Thanks so much for this helpful video!

[@theoffroadingmechanic]

Heater cores may be different in some vehicles. But the older Hondas most of them you can slide them out removing the dash. Can't say the same with the newer hondas

[@meltdownproductions5148]

@@theoffroadingmechanic thanks again for the quick reply! My civic is a 2007, 8th gen. I'm keeping my fingers crossed I don't have to remove the whole dash!

[@theoffroadingmechanic]

I thought I had a video on an 8th gen replacing an expansion valve but it is on a SI. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eJeVeIWoo8poiqc

[@Brantschannel]

I have a 12 civic 1.8l, and my AC stops blowing cold after 20 mins. I thought maybe the system did not have the correct charge. I evac/recharged the system with 15 oz of 134a. System took the charge okay. High said read 100psi when done. Low side was reading 29 in. of VAC. It seems like the compressor is sucking, but a restriction is there. I thought evap or expansion valve, but thought if that was the problem that the condition would exist all the time, not just when the system ran for 20 mins, worked fine during those 20 mins, and then stopped blowing cold. Any suggestions?

[@theoffroadingmechanic]

29inch of vacuum? Or do you mean psi. Might want to check the gap on your compressor clutch usually it will engage fine but after a while when it gets hot it might not fully engage the pulley. Are you able to have it happen without driving or if you drove it and it started happening pull over to see if your compressor clutch is engaging or possibly the relay gets hot and just stops working to not command the compressor clutch.

[@Brantschannel]

@@theoffroadingmechanic Thanks for replying, yep thats vacuum I'm reading on the low side after a correct evac/recharge. So much vacuum that you'd think I had it still on the evacuation pump! Compressor is engaged, i don't think its slipping...just runs and runs (but high side only gets up to 100psi) And this willl happen in my garage or while out on the road driving. 20 mins or so of cooling, then no cooling. I've had the car since it was new and no AC issues til this year. Thanks 4 your help!

[@theoffroadingmechanic]

Oh ok so it is going in to a vacuum. When you shut off the a/c how is the recovery rate on the low side? Is it very slow to equalize pressure? Having a low vacuum and a very slow recovery rate on a low side you might have a stuck closed expansion valve. Or a possibility thatdoesn't happen quite often is that your evap core is icing up and that compressor isn't kicking off from a bad probe on the evap core. That probe is suppose to shut the compressor off when it's to cold to prevent icing. There's no live data on a scanner for that probe so you would need an ohm meter. And compare it with a graph on service manual.

[@Brantschannel]

@@theoffroadingmechanic So today I hooked my gauges back up when the car was cold. The high side is reading 185 (yesterday was only 100 when the car was nice and hot, just after the evac and recharge) and the low side no longer goes into a vacuum. Its at 25psi now at 800rpm. Car is cold at this point. Ambient temp today is same as yesterday, about 85deg (but humid). When the i turn the AC off, it goes up to 50 psi in about 5 seconds. I drove it 2 hours and expected it to stop blowing cold like it usually does. But it maintained. I had reasonably cool AC on the passenger side, slightly warmer on driver side (I don't have dual zone or anything fancy). I hooked my gauges up after driving the 2 hours, high side still about the same, low side about 15 psi now. I notice the compressor is really not kicking off at all, just stays running. I am thankful that the AC is working now, I guess the ac evac and recharge must have jarred something loose in a good way, but I'm just a little confused now. I'll keep you posted. Next 90+ deg day will tell the tell.

[@omarmunoz04]

Is it just one o ring that needs to be replaced?

[@theoffroadingmechanic]

There are 4. 2 are on the evap core and 2 on the opposite side of the expansion valve

[@gabrielmerza6904]

What leak detector brand did you used?

[@theoffroadingmechanic]

It's a Bosch

[@FirePhoenix103]

So, it is possible to take all of that out without cutting the plastic piece under the glove box. Only issue is, you have to unscrew the metal from behind it then follow the metal to the right till you find the next bolt. Unscrew that and it should allow enough bend in the plastic to get everything out. It's a bit harder than just cutting it but it's possible

[@michaelkane732]

not nearly enough time

[@zardiw]

Looks like a pretty hard freaking job........lol.............Z