Everyone Hates Rust! Use These Techniques To Make Your Life Easier!

[@elcheapo5302]

Northern guy here. We'd call that a 1 year old vehicle as far as rust goes.

[@rking3724]

Rust? What rust?

[@chipkapowski1781]

Would you still go about it the same way? With more rust on the nuts that is.

[@rking3724]

@@chipkapowski1781 I soak it with Liquid Wrench 24 hours before I intend to work on it.

[@MMAunderbelly]

lol it’s funny what southerns consider rust.

[@ricanderson5717]

That still is identifiable as a nut. No rust found😂

[@Mac-t4y]

Eric of South Main Auto is the Jedi of rust.

[@2eagle86]

I was gonna say, I seen eric use this tool yrs ago and now ppl are just now using this as a rust method

[@bigdaddymak1439]

Yep the No Mercy Reversy!!

[@anthonynofi4871]

Yes, Eris is a master when it comes to removing/cutting rusted hardware with the cutting torch.

[@MarkVanTasell]

YUP

[@jake-mv5oi]

He just did a reply video.

[@madtownguzzi]

You need to do multiple heat cool cycles to get the tough ones off Spray it with cold water between heat cycles. Wisconsin guy here.

[@jptrainor]

"pretty rusty" is when there is no discernable nut and the stud has been reduced to a pointy little spike of metal.

[@drover338]

Exactly. Well said.

[@jimsvo4486]

Living in Cleveland, I have seen that exact little spike of metal. I wonder how much $ I have wasted in my life fighting rust.

[@jptrainor]

@@jimsvo4486 I'v had nuts rust away completely on an ERG pipe. They literally vanished, leaving just a small ring of steel, and the pipe came loose causing an exhaust leak and a OBD code beause the exhast gasses were interferring with an O2 sensor. The studs were fine. I guess the factory used some cheap generic nuts. Two new nuts resolved the code.

[@Latarian_HoodRat]

Eric sent me here!! He recommended you so I'm following.

[@alext8828]

I've been screaming at everyone to use induction heat and this is the first time I've seen it happen. Good for you.

[@29chevbolenschannel40]

Get a squeeze bottle (old dishwasher detergent bottle works great) and fill it with tap water and place near work area. Heat the nut up until it is cherry red - the stud will usually be close to the same temperature. Set heating unit or torch aside so you don't hit it with the water. Quench by spraying the nut and stud area while still cherry red with the water in the squeeze bottle to cool the area quickly - warning - be prepared for the cloud of very hot steam that will be produced! Let sit for 15 seconds and then drive on socket and try turning with impact or ratchet / swing bar -odds are the nut will start to turn and continue to turn off the threaded stud. The advantage using this method is that the stud and nut usually only need to be heated once and when you spray the area with the cold water any rust / scale will flash off and be removed from the threads during the quick cooling process. When you now attempt to remove the now cooled nut the stud threads are not cherry red hot so this lessens the chance of the stud twisting in its red almost molten state. Also when you spray a lubricant on the cooled threads it does not immediately disappear in a cloud of hot vapour and smoke which basically wastes the lubricant. Just a suggestion that usually works to remove rusted / seized nuts, studs etc. and allow the original threads to be saved As others have stated what you are calling rust is not what I would call rust that would be seen in the salt belt areas.

[@djosbun]

I bought my Mini Ductor Venom once catalytic converters started getting stolen. Paid for itself on the second job. It’s a must-own tool here in southwest Ohio.

[@virtisconsole12]

Being a mechanic on the west coast, SW, SE is Romper Room by comparison to we we deal with in the Rust Belt, when 1-2 year old cars look like they've been sitting in the Dead Sea for a year. What the roads are subjected to, north of the Mason-Dixon line from salt should be a criminal offense. Even the tires rust LOL. I know you guys understand the pain we feel working on rust buckets and it's good that you guys in Georgia can acknowledge how much more creative and careful the work must be. Great video and I am not a professional mechanic, I'm just a DIYer been doing my own stuff for over 50yrs, and the easiest work I did was when I was in Eastern Washington for 15yrs, yeah it get cold by the roads are not bathed in salt. Living in the Midwest is brutal. I am definitely going to invest in that inductor. Thanks, great channel and content

[@jawojnicki]

That air hammer is called "BIG NASTY". It's SICK! Get it 100% but but the induction heater first!!

[@flashover8231]

Old schooler.......that heating tool is great! Makes me want to turn some wrenches again. 🔧

[@jwctech]

Grew up using torches but my venom hp changed the game 💯 engine block bleeder screws, exhaust nuts, brake hardware, etc...

[@fatjack1970]

Lol, every tech I hired from all the sunny states, don't survive in Buffalo NY. 2-3 year old cars here isn't uncommon to use a heat. Around here here can get exhaust studs off that look like toothpicks. Enjoy your videos.

[@x2xtreme360]

Rochester diesel tech here. I love my torches.

[@SouthMainAuto]

Rusty bolts 🥰

[@katservices]

Was wondering if you were going to chime in! Great to see the automotive community supporting each other

[@theroyaltyautoservice]

Apparently we need to go watch some more of your videos because we are way out of the loop on this one. 😬😅

[@SouthMainAuto]

@@theroyaltyautoservice rust is my love language 😅 I think you did a fine job 👍🏼

[@jeffreym755]

Ha that's not rust

[@bob5K]

Great approach. Crank hard enough and something will break eventually. The trick is to weaken the part you want to break (the thread bonding) and not the part you don't (bolt), then knock it until it the weak link (thread bonding) breaks.

[@johnrpizzaguy]

Another great video, as a 40 year master mechanic here in Pismo Beach California I deal with very little rust but that Mini Ductor is a tool that I’ve never heard of before. Thank you guys. But what’s with all the ponytails and bracelets, I don’t even see that here in California. That’s cool. Embrace whatever? I will add that Sherwood is a class act mechanic and that’s very rare.

[@SpicyMcGeezak]

That’s right, embrace whatever and let people be their self.

[@Amopower]

Eric O sent me here . Nice job explaining things so clearly and showing what you’re doing. Going to get a mini ductor next. subscribed !

[@eurbanautotech]

I'm werid. I actually like working on rust. I'm on the west coast of Canada so nowhere near rustbelt levels but still deal with stuff that doesn't want to come apart on a pretty regular basis. I got used to working on it by working at a small shop that seemed to get all of the "problem vehicles" sent to it. I have a ton of specialty tools for dealing with seized/corroded junk that now I see it as a challenge. I love getting through bolts out of rust-welded bushings intact! I'd never want to work on it all day every day but when we get a pile of junk come in I gladly volunteer for it!

[@GEricBromley]

Hey Weird: Come on over to the East Coast, N.S. or NFLD would be good choices. If you're still sane after 6 months you'll have two tons of specialty tools. 🤣🤣👍👍

[@bryancosby2262]

Have used Kroil for over 30 years. Good stuff.

[@icbtech01]

That induction heater is great, I've not seen one before. Great to see a pro recommending patience and doing it right the first time instead of just thinking about getting it off as fast as possible no matter what.

[@garysgarage3669]

Great tips for the none rust belt people. Those of us living in northeast Wisconsin should already be used to fasteners like this. I believe your air hammer is the Astro "big nasty" made famous by South Main Auto.

[@Nordman555]

Northern canada guy here. 1)cut off bolt/stud flush with housing with cutoff wheel. 2 air hammer out other side. 3) grind rust of entire are. 4) install new stud. I find theres no point most of the time trying to salvage any hardware bc you just waste time and energy

[@SpicyMcGeezak]

That’s what I was wondering.. why not just replace the stud?

[@shaunpage4498]

I was thinking this same thing. But sometimes you go down one path, and sunk cost fallacy forces you to keep going. Or because the point of the video was to save the threads.

[@ordinaryjoe2247]

1. The Mini-ductor is great especially around fuel tanks. 2. When the exposed part of the bolt is corroded, I'll sometimes take a moment to clean up the exposed threads a bit, so I'm not fighting against them while trying to work off the nut, especially when it looks like I'll need to chase the threads afterward anyway.

[@speedcaptured]

^^^This^^^ - give the nut every bit of help that you can - and for the DIY guys who have time to spray some Kroil or snake piss or whatever a couple of times a day or two ahead when you know the job is coming up helps a bunch. Despite what Eric O. says, LOL. Yes, Eric sent me.

[@soulshinobi]

In New England, not really rusty untill you're hammering on the next size down socket. Great technique nonetheless, love an induction heater.

[@kimbuck-2]

💯

[@nighttrainist]

I've seen miniductors in the past few years. Back in the '70's, I induction hardened splines, tranny shafts and other components in a heat treat department. The first time I saw a coil heat steel to cherry red, i couldn't believe my eyes! I think a miniductor is in my future when I meet the right siezed up bolt.

[@RDFunkhouser]

You're definitely on a different level! It's great to see that there are still folks who go the extra mile to make it right! Next time you find yourself in the rusty fastener situation, try shocking that nut in the clockwise or tightening direction, too! Or even toggling your impact in both directions while you're on it. In my experience, tightening yields more successful removals!!!

[@groovygannon]

I have had a mini ductor for a decade. Have to have here in Omaha. Also twist sockets for damaged nut removal. Snap on version are the best I have used.

[@fabi1013]

that’s a beautiful turbo blue A5 Sportback in the background

[@dogdooley4495]

I've got one of the cheap Amazon induction heaters and it has worked well on my cars up here in the northeast. If I owned a shop, I'd invest in the Venom, but for home use, the cheap one does the trick.

[@Rhosk44]

When using induction heaters on nuts, the nuts expand which is what you want, but how does it work on bolts since you would ideally want to heat around the outside of bolts?

[@generationxdad]

I love the Venom induction heater (they have a newer "HP" one with green trim on it instead of blue that has even more power :) ). I live and work in the rust belt of southwestern Ontario Canada, and those Mini-Ductors are amazing for freeing up bolts in areas you cannot or do not want to have an open flame. I have been a tech for over 19 years and every shop I worked at used torches (or as I always called them, the "Flame Drive Plus wrench" LOL :P ). I wish I would have discovered the induction heaters a lot sooner because for a lot of applications they are so much nicer, easier and quicker than rolling out the torch cart.

[@johnbickle4654]

old truck mechanic told me get nuts / bolts glowing and pour water over them shocks the metal and they fall off , never take anything off while that hot as the threads can be damaged due to being soft when glowing hot

[@swampyfox8688]

Thanks for another good lesson in patience Professor

[@anthonysova7117]

Nice May I suggest using the air hammer bit first before the chisel bit I agree using heat like you did Big nasty with the Venom are a help CHEERS

[@davidbaldwin2729]

I have an inductor and an air hammer but only a MAP gas torch, but here in Northwest Indiana I can usually prevail against rust with some combination of these approaches. enjoy your videos, nice shout out from Eric O

[@teslamr7333]

That heating tool is amazing!

[@paxtonquigley1725]

You are a master technician and teacher. Best wishes. Thanks

[@michaelguglielmo2749]

I live in New York , let’s call it the rust belt. I purchased a induction tool , great tool especially when you have to be careful about where you put a flame.

[@aaronfisher8989]

I’m a red seal tech in Nova Scotia. The rust is insane

[@u2mister17]

South Main Auto sent me to your video here, thanks.

[@johnyoung4466]

Awesome learned something today.

[@BenKlassen1]

Great tips! I'm dealing with a rusty nightmare right now.

[@daves4026]

That’s a great video with a great outcome thanks for sharing

[@joeharvie8362]

Safety first! A torch especially in a back yard mechanic shop could cost you your insurability. After a claim they may not cover you again. Great idea.

[@orlandofernandes4790]

So pleasant to see good technicians work

[@jimsvo4486]

I agree. To know multiple ways to work out an issue shows experience and smarts.

[@jonkrohn4074]

Michigander here, unfortunately for us we don’t do the rust premium for labor time, we use straight book time I think in my 11 years of being a tech I have charged more for labor because of rust one time for a dodge caliber cradle job. I am jealous

[@BigTv8power]

Like the techniques and process. If it's too much of a pain, I understand. It would be nice to see the finished results. With the shiny new parts installed. Even just a still picture would be nice. Keep up the great work!

[@allupinit2107]

Great! information, especially on the exhaust system. Keep sending us these tips. ….Thx.

[@Taillighttim26]

Banging on good sockets and extensions are not going to hurt them those coil heaters are good to have

[@randyduncan8863]

Another great video.....

[@DependableAutoTruck]

thanks for sharing i am in alabama much like you when comes to rust i use Marvel Mystery oil and acitone seems to work great

[@royrogers4025]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us! I enjoyed learning from you.

[@michaeldiaz6308]

Great video, guys! Any lesson around the shop is appreciated! Keeping my fingers crossed for the 100k prize! Really want to get into using a scope more because of the videos you guys have made using it and showing how helpful it is.

[@jaythorne5208]

Also holt the chisel flat with the flange at the base of the nut.....tric is to break the bond between the flange and the nut

[@ThunderbirdRocket]

Great 👍🏼 content / topic / video ! Please continue to let us in on everything you have learned in the trade . Much appreciated ! Nacho brings the heat !!

[@als1023]

Great video ! Never seen that inductor before, great find !! Gonna be pricy in $C , but what an excellent tool. Anything to not bring the torch out ,,

[@bryannikkila9751]

I'm from Higgins Lake Michigan and still drive a 1993 Ford Aerostar van it's getting a bit rusty for sure

[@parkerassociates9864]

Thanks

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

Invite Eric O to be a guest in your shop!

[@Motortiger05]

I like the size of that little light. Where did you buy it?

[@benjaminnarbut8994]

Here in Massachusetts that’s what a 1 year old studs would like anything car over 3 years old you ain’t doing exhaust work without a torch especially when I was at Honda doing piston rings on the j series engines all the time a torch was always needed to get the rear converter studs off to pull the oil pan off

[@shaunpage4498]

Exhaust parts are the only pieces that can't be kept from rusting. Even if you coated a new car every year with whatever rust spray you want, exhaust can't be helped unless it's stainless. But I think the actual nuts and bolts can't be stainless because it's too weak.

[@dand3975]

That mini Ductor induction heat gun is very cool. Safer and faster than oxygen and acytelene. Would. Be cool if the mini ductor could be used to solder copper plumbing pipes.

[@timhammond8209]

Northern guy here! That's a walk in the park. Oxy acetylene all the way. Not much luck with those inductor thingys. I'm usually not a negative Nancy.... but... banging on the exhaust with a hammer that close to a converter will be a for sure check engine light in the near future. Job security I suppose. But not in my shop! Love some of your videos. Diag videos mostly. Stick with that.

[@bigdaddymak1439]

Not usually a negative Nancy?? I find that hard to believe!! I saw some of your other comments you're negative Nancy most of the time. You do know most of the US isn't in the rust belt and needs to know how to deal with this kind of rust. Their insurance doesn't allow all of them to use oxyacetylene! Sherman is trying to lift up our industry so don't drag it down being Debbie downer

[@v8packard]

Neat tool. Too bad in Northern Illinois there wouldn't be anything to heat up.

[@alirezarahmati6121]

you are realy master good job

[@tomd5010]

The method used is the classic way to remove rusty nuts if you have the time and don't want to break out the torch. Tapping on the socket is just what you have to do. Sometimes it helps to alternately try tightening and loosening the nut. Anything to induce vibration and break the bond. Kroil is the best penetrating solvent I know of. That and fluid film are two garage essentials.

[@pigletshut]

I have yet to see Kroil available. For DIYers with older cars like me, ATF and acetone are even more essential. Mix them 1:1 for a very effective "penetrator".

[@Jethu262]

That actually looks pretty decent to me. I have a 2004 Buick Rendesvous that had flange studs that were so rusted they broke under the weight of the exhaust. I don't have enough of an attachment to the car to put the effort and money into replacing the exhaust, so I threw set of flange clamps and a gasket on it and called it a day. Held up for 3 years now. $15 repair. I live in Ohio, so rebuilding the exhaust on a car that has a rotting subframe is a waste of time and money. Just trying to get a couple more years out of it. If it was my Dodge Ram, that would be a different story. I love my Ram, and I'll do everything in my power to keep her in good shape for years to come.

[@billwTCan]

Few tricks from up north. Spray with wd, tighten a bit, loosen. Repeat. Tap with hammer.

[@pigletshut]

Forget WD. PB is the minimum. Or 1:1 Dexron ATF / acetone, because they are cheap.

[@sheerwillsurvival2064]

Slowly getting closer to 100k 🤠

[@Factoryseconds123]

I'd just use an oscillating tool with a carbide blade to cut/split the nut or a cordless file (belt) sander to just turn the rusted nut into rust dust. The air hammer seems a bit hard to control.

[@jawojnicki]

GET THE VENOM HP! This thing is SO expensive and I'm telling you it's worth EVERY SINGLE PENNY!!! In one year of owning it, it probably saved me easily 8 hours of aggravation dealing with Rusty Fasteners and oxygen sensors.

[@chipkapowski1781]

I had a question in my mind why not use a ratchet to back the nuts off after heating. A minute later it was explained and answered. Excellent video as always.

[@marksd5650]

Eric O sent me. Best Regards

[@WiekingderViking]

Brass hammer…..cool!

[@cheapers1952]

Will you be using any anti-seize during the installation

[@josephchamberlain9129]

I like that heat tool. What’s the name of the spray oil?

[@danielguerra626]

Kroil

[@brandynsauer4572]

That mini ductor venom is cool. Have you tried thermo shocking the fastners? I live in the midwest and drive 10-30yr old vehicles. I've had some luck with compressed air in the can after heating with a torch. I see that CRC makes a product called Freeze-Off. I've never actually used it. THoughts?

[@thatrealba]

Ford Tech Makuloco posted a pic recently and tagged South Main Auto because maaaaaan, that rust was 100% involved and in giant flakes.

[@supermairo1716]

I've done stuff like that too but the best advice I can give anyone is more heat is never a bad thing if it's orange it's enough I like to use a socket when I can but those rounded nut extractors are the shit for exhaust work after the socket didn't do it or slipped.. moral of the story alot of heat and a little finesse. I'm from Eastern Canada and it's a good day too see a 6 point nut still be a six point lol

[@tomoakhill8825]

My first Royalty video. Sherwood is so wise. There are uncountable places in life that _require_ going slow, but scream at you "faster, harder, more power." Another thing, you buy the tools to do the job, not to store in a museum. If that means they do not last 100 years; so be it. Do not needlessly abuse your tools, but do not be afraid to _use_ them to get the job done. That is what they are for, and you can always buy another.

[@patrickostrom2762]

411 on that heat tool! Enjoy video and customer can see why your shop time to do the job! Customer need to be educated!

[@Jethu262]

Before you go spending 15-30 bucks on a can of Kroil, go take a look at Project Farm doing tests on different "penetrating" oils. You'll find that Liquid Wrench, and even WD-40 outperformed Kroil for a fraction of the price.

[@maxxmich]

Also use proper extension cord..like a heavy duty...cause the Induction tool uses a lot of current and amps

[@mcsqueegee81]

A Pittsburg impact socket would do fine I'd say

[@mandytuning]

Cold shock is another technique. Chilli red then throw cold water.

[@Ravi-kc6fl]

Washing your undercarriage, engine, and suspension components or anything exposed to salt will drastically reduce this. Live in NJ.

[@kimbuck-2]

Why do exhaust studs exist and are thet attached to the flange from the factory? Or are they driven in? My real question is why aren't normal nuts and bolts used? What is the significance of a stud?

[@madtownguzzi]

Eric O would just weld in new flex pipes from NAPA and save those pipes.

[@GroundedDiagnostics]

get ya self some socket extension savers. 😊😊👍👍

[@johnnygarcia1582]

Eric O. Sent me here. Following now

[@gerrycarmichael1391]

And thats why us folks up north dont put anything back together without never seize.

[@nickthirgood3882]

Now bust out the copper anti-seize when putting everything back together 👌

[@madtownguzzi]

Watch South Main Auto and Watch Wes Work if you want to see real rust.

[@allanmoulton3745]

Definitely a 2 man job!! Good lord!!

[@aeroguy86]

Step one, reject all rusty vehicles! Texas boy here, we would lose our mind if we had to deal with that. Question for yall rust wranglers knowing a simple brake job can go south real quick do yall charge flat rate or “this is our labor rate and we are done when we are done”?

[@lukeshoemaker9061]

Michigan guy here. At the ahop I work at, we typically give quotes that are worst case scenario situations. Example- Rusted out jeep wrangler needs front axle u joints? Tell customer they have to be prepared to maybe buy new front hub bearings and bolts in the event that the bolts break and/or are way too rusted to try to fit a 12 point socket onto.

[@epicragegaming2016]

@@lukeshoemaker9061 i swear nothing is worse than those rusty jeeps and those 12 point bearing bolts.

[@thatrealba]

Texans can't handle much of anything that isn't easy going, warm weather, clear flat roads, and boring geography.

[@MitchGaar]

Set of Snap On 3/8 impact sockets 350 bucks! I got Capri Impact set with no skips for 79 bucks and had them 3 years, never stripped or broke one! They are 6pt and never slip! Snap On is all about the name, not so much only quality like it use to be! Should be against the law for them to take advantage of people because they have credit! Against the law in some places! Price Gouging to the fullest! They have some good tools, but why are the 4 times the price of what they cost to produce? Because people keep paying the ridiculous prices to be able to say, look at my tools! 300 bucks for a Rachet? Their Power tools are junk and Milwaukee will smoke every one of them on power and battery life! Mid Torque Milwaukee was 250 bucks, Snap On is close to 1000 and won’t keep up with Mod Torque! 42 years in this business and sold most of my Snap On! Why have all that money wrapped up in tools that can be bought for 1/4 of price that do the same job or better?

[@kimbuck-2]

I bought a new 2022 4Runner in the fall of 2021 and Fluid Filmed the heck out of it. Worked fantastic BUT....exhaust studs and nuts rusted and it's driving me crazy just on principle. Am I whacked? Lol

[@jedi-mic]

Wouldn't it be just better to use a nut splitter they work great better than a chisel you really want to get it orange or yellow hot the nut not just red give it a blast in the threads with some silicone oil as well before you trying to take it off what is PP blaster? are you talking about penetrating oils? do you know if you can get any little 10mm triangle threaded pieces? that go over the triangle flange of the bracket, mine so rusty I just have to put bolts and nuts on the ends but really I need to spread the weight because it's so rusty and gone! and I was thinking about cutting 8mm triangle pieces to give it support easier if I can buy some.

[@daviddasilva4897]

A little trick after you heat it up splash it with water it helps

[@epicragegaming2016]

if this came into my bay working in canada, it would be a lucky day working on a car so clean. i wouldn't even use heat on that. its coming off no problem with a 1/2" impact.

[@justanothertechm3677]

I would have reused the old nuts also

[@epicragegaming2016]

@@justanothertechm3677 100%

[@pigletshut]

​@@justanothertechm3677Not for the two that have seen the air chisel.

[@Task_514]

Hammer and chisel instead of the air hammer is also good and less aggressive. You don't want to make accident with the air hammer and give you more job to fix 😂