How To Perform a Professional Brake Job (Pads & Rotors)

[@plorwax]

This is why I do my own brake jobs. It’s super easy and I know it’s done right. Hard to find mechanics that have this much attention to detail. Great job!

[@ecleveland1]

I was taught how to do brake jobs when I was 13 / 14 years old. I’ve been doing my own for 40 years now. The man that taught me was my mentor when it came to mechanical work and electrical work. He was top notch at both.

[@TrumpTrain911]

I litterly was thinking the same thing as I just scrolled down and saw this comment lol .

[@LarryWhite-kv2hl]

I agree with every procedure ! I have done the very same methods since the 1970s. Would add to not push the brake pedal to the floor when closing the calipers . The master cylinder can pick up dirt at the end of it's travel and fail ..... Most techs don't work like this !..... Excellent Video !!..... ....

[@ADUSN]

Most mechanics/tire guys aren't worth a fuck these days. Standards are slipping everywhere. Competency crisis

[@mrbmp09]

Exactly, Shops like Walmart will literally hire ANY funky off the street, no experience needed.

[@bmanmitch2005]

DIY backyard mechanic here.I have learned something new today when you cleaned the rust around the studs! I have watch many, many, many other brake job videos and have never seen this step shown! I just looked at Amazon and there are various descriptions depending on the sellers and key words are Brake Hub Resurfacing Kit, Brake Hub Cleaning Kit for Rust, Wheel Stud Cleaning Kit, Clean Lug Nuts on the Wheel Hub.

[@jimmycorbett4611]

This is 100% the best brake video I’ve seen on KZbin

[@mikeh.9954]

Agreed! There is no way most auto shops go to this detail on a brake job, including large dealers. We bought a used car this spring out of state. The car was at 2 dealerships (the dealer we bought it at, and a closer dealer for warranty work). I took it to a local mechanic and they found an issue where a brake pad had been installed backwards. SUPER strange! And both the previous dealers had done what they called a "Vehicle Inspection".

[@miltonturney453]

I agree, great job

[@paulblack3608]

As a lifelong driveway mechanic, I've done tons of shadetree brake jobs and I always try to do it right. It takes longer, and it's more slogging around with rusty dirty old parts but I always appreciate the value of a job done right and NOT having to do it again before long. Nice to see a working shop taking the time and effort to do it right. This kind of service is what any customer dreams of but rarely gets these days. cheers.

[@WhoWeAre1311]

Great video. This was actually very well done. People who complain about excess time or labour are just lazy in my opinion. Do it right the first time or don’t do it at all. If I didn’t live so far (I’m in Canada), I would have drove down to your shop in a heartbeat. I like knowing people are taking care of my vehicle the same way I would. Lastly, kudos to Clayton! He did an excellent job.

[@Michael-fc8or]

Mechanical engineer here, truly appreciate your attention to detail and explanation of the “why” on each step. Wonderful job and all the best!!

[@leeancroft7805]

U ain’t no engineer shut up

[@politicalfisherman540]

Professional fisherman here. Why I brought that up, no one knows. Just thought we are listing our careers. 😂😂

[@DanielLuechtefeld]

​@@politicalfisherman540mechanical engineers (of which automotive engineering is a specialty) design these systems, so they have a better appreciation for why high precision and attention to detail are crucial. Their endorsement is meaningful.

[@politicalfisherman540]

@@DanielLuechtefeld lol, it's a brake change 🤣

[@DanielLuechtefeld]

@@politicalfisherman540 ... A brake job with a level of attention to detail that 99% of mechanics will never give.

[@porthose2002]

There are a number of really useful tips here. You've changed the way I do brakes. Thanks!

[@josephgozditis6815]

I am an Industrial Mechanic for a fortune 100 company. And amateur backyard auto mechanic. Two completely different fields! And I really found this video helpful and probably the best front brake replacement video that I have seen. Excellent job of explain every step! Definitely, learned a few things. Thanks.

[@aq7705]

Decades of experience in 1 video. YT is a gold mine...thanks for sharing your knowledge!

[@jourdanbaello1831]

Been performing Brake Jobs with no come backs for over 15 years using the same method. Great tutorial men.

[@clashandhaggard]

If only we had guys like this in every auto shop.

[@last7509]

standing over your shoulder nit picking? must make mechanics can't wait to go home

[@pierrecastanets1974]

Clayton was looking zoned out at times, but he performed like a pro.

[@AG-rz9qt]

Not when people choose the cheapest price, which means not the best shop… not a standard because customers don’t make it a standard

[@orion4329]

Ur comment us utterly right

[@KrishnaSingh-ow1ie]

Alot of mechanics don't do this. It's about making fast money. You have to do it yourself if you want a thorough job.

[@atadbitnefarious1387]

As a rust belt guy. I like to put a thin film of high temp anti-seize in between the wheel hub surface and the rotor after cleaning it. And then another layer on the surface between the wheel and rotor face. Really helps with taking stuff apart again later on, and you spend less time cleaning the second time around too.

[@simply_the_dev7588]

but won't that cause the rotor to wobble just like having rust there?

[@morenothing4u]

​@@simply_the_dev7588 nope and a little goes a long way with antiseize.

[@marcjtdc]

I second that. I NH the tire will get seized. One time I couldn't get the tire off, so I went in for a tire rotation lol.

[@reallifeengineer7214]

@@simply_the_dev7588 If you ever touched & worked with anti seize, that alone would answer your question. 😅 Anti seize is not supposed to be brushed on and left like that. The brush is used to dab. After that, you’re suppose to spread it out - thin it out on the surface. After you covered the intended surface, if still have some areas thick with anti seize, take a shop towel and wipe. There will still be a thin layer of anti seize even after such wipe. I have a habit of using right hand pinkie-tip as my anti seize spreader. This allows me to feel how thin the anti seize has being spread.

[@williamalexander1743]

​@marcjtdc, that was good thinking!

[@LordTominator]

Man, if I only had access to videos like this twenty years ago. Everything you've shown I learned the hard way. Awesome video.

[@NeilTomkins-t5u]

Great job, I wish the young mechanics in UK , would watch and learn garage discipline from videos like this.

[@evanstells]

Great video and great attention to detail been a mechanic all my life and am also a mechanical engineer. Your costumers are lucky have such a good shop.

[@bradleycass11]

As a previous aircraft mechanic, I'm impressed with your attention to detail. It's refreshing to see people that care about quality

[@unebonnevie]

*AND* caring about customers! I get doubtful going to mechanics nowadays, at times that I absolutely cannot do a DIY on the work, because most of the mechanics rush through their jobs and don't care about details. And when you bring back the car, that actually gotten worse after you have brought it in, they make excuses!

[@tonyrock5313]

Your man needs to wear safety glasses.

[@theniceneighbor]

As a previous video game junkie, I am impressed also.

[@PhpGtr]

@@tonyrock5313 He get him.

[@n8adams]

@@unebonnevie, yep. this is why i started doing my own brakes. The last shop that did my brakes did not put lug nuts on any of my wheels. I turned around and drove back as it didn't feel right. OMJ

[@caseyjames5412]

I've done a dozen brake jobs the exact same way you guys do and I've never had someone come back for noise or vibration. It's the perfect brake job! Great video. Thank you for posting.

[@drywater3559]

its honestly not rocket science. this should all be basic knowledge. never argue about torque spec unless you have a masters degree in engineering. although the reminder about opening the bleeder valve when compressing the piston is a good tip, especially ones with older brake fluid.

[@LifeInJambles]

@@drywater3559 The explanation about thoroughly cleaning all the mounting surfaces was a pretty good thing to include as well. Most backyard mechanics would never even think about that stuff, but it's pretty important. I've spent most of my life not paying that much attention to that, and I generally haven't really had an issue I've noticed, but it's pretty clear why it could result in some problems.

[@julianjennings4638]

Clean around the piston and dust shroud with a plastic brush and brake cleaner BEFORE pushing the piston back. Inspect the dust boot for fit and tears. If you have to replace the boots, replace the seals too.

[@jimlofaro5695]

very good point.

[@BillCalder]

My Dad's good friend was a Master Mechanic and he said the same thing. Clean the piston's rubber boot thoroughly before driving in the piston. As I remember, he said wipe it with a little brake fluid as part of cleaning it. On another note, Zinc is a sacrificial anode and it will protect an entire part even if the finish is locally removed completely in the slide areas. (ie. They weld zinc tabs on ship hulls they don't electroplate them.) I've run 96 hour salt fog tests and proven this to be true. Retired Mech Eng.

[@enhancedphysique6452]

It takes them more time.

[@director2345]

Thank you for confirming the amount of work that should be done for a mechanic to say he did a proper brake job.

[@Jositoooo]

It took me 20 years to finally buy my own home and have a garage to work in. Now that I can finally do my own maintenance, I really appreciate y’all showing how to do it the right way.

[@tc1904]

This shop does museum quality work on every day cars. Probably the best video I have ever seen on how to do a brake pad and rotor replacement the way it should be done! If you are near this shop, I would bring anything to them and pay whatever they charge because you don’t see quality like this Every day!

[@meridianmedia1093]

We would Gladly pay them to be this detailed, if you’re a customer that keeps their Volvo till it hits 300000 plus. 😎 I’m an odd customer that wants the mechanic to be paid for the detail. 🚗⚒️🪛

[@jim4448]

AfterLiving in Massachusetts.. Is it professional mechanic for about 30 years.. I would put a little. Antissee (sp) between the hub and the disc..

[@dubmob151]

​@@jim4448antiseize- I once had a rotor that was so rusted in place that I ended up having to use a hydraulic puller to remove it-

[@jamesgeorge4874]

Nine thousands of runout is going to shake like a dog shitting tacks, the first time you drive it. Also, puting a little silicone grease UNDER the anti rattle clips helps slow down the corrosion jacking that binds up the pads. If you get bare rotors that have oil or cosomline on them, clean them with hot soapy water _first_ before you hit them with brake clean, this breaks the surface tension of the oils, and washes off any metal particles that have been left behind by machining, this is an ASE test question, and recommended by Raybestos, Kelsey-Hayes, and TRW, and I consider the manufacturer as the authority on those matters. I've been doing it this way for 32 years, and It has served me very well.

[@armchairtin-kicker503]

I agree with you. To prevent rust-jacking, I grease the back of my abutment clips; however, I leave the faces bare.

[@MichaelNorthThe_Atom]

This is fantastic. Im a weekend warrior with a pile of wrenches. Ive been doing my own brakes for years and still learned a lot of valuable information here. Thank you guys for the time and detailed explanations.

[@nicholaspetre1]

Well, all I can say is wow! Actually this is the exact way every technician should perform this job. The is the right way to do it. I am very glad you guys follow the procedure and are very meticulous about every step of the process. I had previous experiences with several shop where I asked them if cleaned the hub, did this or that, if they greased the pins, and those guys looked at me like as if I asked them to do something out of this world. Assholes. Thank you for doing your job so good!

[@andrewhalenza5773]

Those pads are more than 50% left, diff service at 35k and brakes with material left, I’m getting a little concerned about your ethics

[@Gnetbird]

Not really, why change the rotor and not the brake pads. The pads take a beating and besides most people wait until they are stopping with metal on metal.

[@stevetrepanier4351]

In the rust belt, you need to apply grease between the clips and the caliper bracket. More likely for the pads to seize in the caliper brackets due to rust jacking, than for the caliper pins to seize, and the grease will help keep moisture out of that area. It's much more important once the vehicle has aged a bit and any factory plating is gone.

[@howardpike6415]

(1) Absolutely second this practice. My '16 CRV has cast iron caliper bracket, no plating, which rusts fast from salted roads, especially at rear brakes. Use a high temp lub that resists water wash out. (2) Also, when the rubber boot is a tight fit at inner end pf slide pin, put boot on slide pin first, then apply grease to slide pin, then install slide pin and boot into caliper bracket. (3) For rust belt cars - when caliper bracket is cleaned and still off car, screw bracket bolt 80% into bracket and apply thread sealer (or medium thread locker) to bracket threads at tip of bolt. This will help prevent rust-seizing of bolt in the bracket. As a DIY mechanic, I don't want to have to deal with a broken bolt at next brake job. (4) Finally (for rust belt corroded brakes) consider using a big puller to pull rotor off hub. The "heavy" hammer method of getting rotor off hub risks damaging wheel bearings, and steering linkage (at front). (5) Although I use a decent torque wrench, once fully torqued, I paint critical bolt heads at their bottom with (office) white-out. Then check that bolts have not moved after some driving. Thanks for posting this really great video.

[@JuliusHofer-gg1ee]

I second the second comments! I like wiping on nickel anti-sieze between the anti rattle clips and the caliper bracket

[@montefiveforty1]

Yup overkilled everything else but forgot the most important step smh.

[@armchairtin-kicker503]

I agree. Indeed, lubricate the back of abutment clips, leaving the faces dry. Last time I used brake grease but I am going to try anti-seize on my next brake service. As it stands, I will be using Permatex 80653 Silicone Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant for slide pins, Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant for brake pad shims, Permatex 09128 Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant for the back of the abutment clips, and Loctite LB 8007 Copper-Base Anti-Seize Lubricant spray for the hubs. By the way, to prevent overspraying hubs with anti-seize, I place a piece of 1/2" ID vinyl tubing over each stud and a piece of cardboard, with an axle cut-out, behind hubs. I prefer spraying over brushing hubs, the former method creating an even coat, a coat less likely to cause runout.

[@thebordernow]

​@@howardpike6415 Great idea about the white-out!

[@Chevy-hw6lw]

well I think its safe to say this is the best comprehensive brake video on all youtube. This guy should actually be a college instructor or something. Really good at teaching.

[@carlossandoval5216]

I think he said he is a teacher.

[@kermitfrog6350]

Been doing my own brakes for 45 years, just learned a lot on the finer details that I never knew. Many thanks for the lesson!

[@ThomasNappo]

You guys need to Teach other Garages how to do a Brake job..COMPLETE..well done😊

[@serenityfpv]

I dont usually comment on diy jobs on vehicles, but this video right here on how to do a brake job is the best ive ever seen on youtube! Period. The guy knows his stuff and how to do it right the FIRST time. Keep these great guides coming!!

[@anotherstory2738]

This is exactly who you want teaching and working on your car. No BS. No shortcuts. Straight to the point and thorough. I love that moment he stopped the Mechanic to put on PPE. The whole video he was making sure it was done right and safely. This guy raised the bar. This didn’t even come off as a break job. I took this as how to service your brakes to be as if you just purchased the car brand new. Many thanks for the education.

[@robertsimonofsky3959]

I like the pipe, too. One accident can ruin a day. That said , great video . Love the detail of cleaning everything

[@VndNvwYvvSvv]

This is a real brake job, plain and simple. Most just do a pad slap, maybe pad and rotor, but that's obviously wrong.

[@eddisc4205]

WHAT PPE??? Certainly nothing being worn while 'wirewheeling' the hub.

[@สดชื่น-ด9ผ]

@@eddisc4205I think he talked about goggles while blowing brake cradles 🎉

[@harryfalkiewicz3139]

Lol I was like, "Clayton, you need eye protection for that process." The boss should have had eye protection as well.

[@Khg72]

As a home mechanic, I didn't know to open the bleeders before pushing the pistons in, thank you for this info.

[@stacylefler86]

Very detailed I am also an aircraft mechanic. I wish there were more shops like yours out there, sometimes us mechanics would like someone else to fix our problems since we do it all week. Unfortunately great shops are few and far between these days. P.S. you forgot to put the rubber cap on the bleeder screw, its on the lift behind you 😉

[@silverltc2729]

Per ardua ad astra

[@arthurskonieczny597]

This is and will be the BEST brake job tutorial on the net.

[@n085fs]

Why have I NEVER seen ANYBODY do a "How To" that involves READING AND FOLLOWING THE MAINTENANCE BOOK?!

[@jotu173]

You may know this already (but did not clearly state it). MOST "brake grease" is actually bad (deteriorates rubber). My understanding is that ONLY SILICONE PASTE should be used on the pins.

[@jameslewis1175]

Superlube

[@joelawoyomi9102]

I think you are right buddy, Silicon paste on the slide pins.

[@GrandePunto8V]

Yeah. In general rubber types in the braking system are compatible with water based or soluble chemicals (acids/alkalies, alcohol, glycol, anti-freeze, brake fluid), NOT petroleum products (oil, grease, fuel).

[@lordjaashin]

you are correct. it can deteriorate rubber or swell the rubber which seizes the caliper pins. i only use 3m silicone paste

[@emiliog.4432]

I use Molykote for brake pins and pads, etc. made specifically for brake work. I also use oem spec grease only.

[@cireisa]

Two things here: 1- I never opened the bleeder when pushing the piston back and never had problems but it's a very good point and will definitely do it from now on 2- I ALWAYS use high temp anti-seize on the hub to not get the rotor to rust and stick to it. This step makes the cleaning the hub from rust on the next brake job a 30 sec job (just spray brake cleaner and it'll dissolve it ,then wipe clean).I'd like to know if there's any drawback by doing so ,I can only see advantages but I'm not Mr Know-it-all The rest of the steps are exactly like I do and very nicely explained here.

[@orhansejfulov7437]

i've heard a lot of times, that if you put anti seize between the hub and the rotor, it could take a fake reading when you torque the wheels since anti seize is soft. Is it true? i don't know.

[@bruceleeharrison9284]

I always just put a thin smear of brake grease on the hub since it's already right there. Never had any issues and it wipes right off later.

[@the_hate_inside1085]

Use the spray can copper grease, it will add a thin coating preventing rust. Don't want a thick layer for this application. Doing this will keep the hub surface nice, smooth, and rust free.

[@aaronmcelhinney1436]

@@orhansejfulov7437Not true at all. Anti-seize will actually give you a more accurate torque reading, since you’re not measuring the friction from the threads. Tightening to the proper torque value is done because you’re stretching the fastener to a degree, depending on the torque spec, and you don’t want it over or under torqued. However, it’s recommended that you never put anti seize on a lug nut. Just clean those threads.

[@fabianwenzel4265]

You should NEVER use anti-seize on either surface of the rotor or the hub. The rotors are actually supposed to "stick" to the hub and the wheel so that the braking momentum can be transferred via friction between the surfaces. If this friction is reduced, the momentum acts as a shearing force on your wheel bolts. You don't want that.

[@kevinlandry2263]

I absolutely love the way you explain what you do and why you do it while not acting like a “know it all”. I totally agree with every step you take to ensure a professional brake service - Great video and thanks for sharing - You are a true professional and a master of your craft - Thank You

[@lonniecrook1684]

Been doing my own brake jobs for over 50 years. Cleanliness is key. Never thought of loosening the bleeder valve before compressing the piston, but it sure makes sense. Good video, good tips! Thanks!

[@googleuser7563]

Very excellent for sure. What about some anti-seize between the hub and the rotor?

[@SpreadEagleRL]

This is by far the best brake job I have ever seen on KZbin.

[@gncc600]

You must not watch many videos.

[@Polo-715]

@@gncc600true

[@Beaver.17]

@@gncc600 what makes you say that?

[@QueenCityHornets]

@@Beaver.17 I would assume his brain communicated to his fingers to type that? But I mean who knows

[@Beaver.17]

@@QueenCityHornets Did that make you feel clever posting that? OP made a positive post about the work this channel is doing and this guy thought it's a mature response to shit on him without giving any reason to. At least give recommendations of better videos/ channels to watch. jeez.

[@classics289]

I don't know where in the country you are located but bead/ sand blasting something ferrous, cast iron or steel and not painting it with some sort of high heat paint in most of the country is a major no no. The blasted surface is extremely porous and will rust extremely fast especially if you live on the coast or where salt is used in snow. Also using grease on the back of the pad IS highly debated and in my opinion is a bad idea. On some vehicles right from the factory there is a sticky substance between the pad and caliper parts (kind of the exact opposite of grease) which sticks the pad and caliper together thus eliminating potential vibration (squeaking). Excellent video otherwise. I worked on a very large fleet of patrol cars for 20 years and got to do alot of brake jobs in which I was the last one to do it. It is nice to see my work last the test of time and abuse time and time again on the same vehicle with no early come backs.

[@trondfiskeseth2559]

I 100% agree with you. painting calipers after sandblasting is a prerequisite for lasting antirust

[@bigdaddymak1439]

They're in Georgia

[@kevhed8]

Now that's how you do a brake job! Nice work Clayton and an awesome detailed video.

[@stevenbolanos]

Great video

[@charlesparker2152]

I was watching another video AirPlay on the living room TV had to take my dog out and this video was on , so I started to watch. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️👍SERIOUSLY ! I have been and worked around heavy equipment my entire life. Literally crawling through tractor trailer tires leaning against the wall maybe 100+ of them great until you bump into a mounted Bud wheel and then you have to turn around. I enjoyed the entire video with your attention to detail. I wish your shop was up North , New England , you would have a customer. Very hard to find a mechanic that takes this kind of pride in his work .

[@markconley9279]

1. I’ll clean the slide pins before removing the bracket. 2. Put a thin film on the caliper contact points instead of the back of the pad so there’s no grease to absorb dust. 3. Instead of lubing the shims, put a thin coat on the pad contacts. Again, to keep dust from sticking to the exposed grease. Clayton needs a cart right next to where he’s working to set his tools on.

[@teshane8784]

Wise tips indeed.

[@teenice894]

After 10 yrs of turning a wrench I just bought a foldable service cart. One of the best decisions I made. No more tools on the ground or multiple trips bringing tools from one side to another. Also high quality lights!

[@ICECarOwnerDIY]

I don't know this, but he may actually have one for normal brake jobs. They may have had the tools in a slightly different place for filming purposes.

[@petershearing318]

I've been a DIY mechanic for 40 years but mainly engines. I'm just about to do my first pads & rotors replacement. So glad I watched this first to avoid mistakes I probably would have made.

[@chaddidomenico6923]

You’ve been a “mechanic” for 40 years and never did a brake job. 😂

[@garylee9738]

Project Farm says Liquid Wrench™️ penetrating oil is better than Kroil™️.

[@joepacheco7979]

Poor Clayton... 🙁. Boss shoulda just did the video himself, rather than bossing Clayton around.

[@rhettlyerly545]

I have watched many tutorials on brake jobs and this one is truly excellent.

[@DirtE30]

One thing that wasn’t mentioned and should ALWAYS be done is a proper bedding/burnishing of the new pads to the rotors… this is a crucial step in having a long lasting setup and a proper friction coefficient to prevent warping, or high deposits from excess heat while stopped. This is a step that takes time but is 100% worth it.

[@Vultrux]

I've been buying ceramic brake pads and coated rotors for the last 10 years. Both products state they have no brake in periods. I think I've only bought one set of super plain steel rotors that had some lube on them that needed a scrub. The rest don't but I still spray them down real quick with brake clean incase they packaged it with anything. Slap it all together and drive around the block and getting a couple 25-5 stops and call it done. Haven't had issues yet. Did one full brake set on my truck in two parts and never went back to it in the 5 years I still owned it, then junked it for a bad transmission that I didn't have diagnosed. Did a full brake job on my equinox and man the brake system on that vehicle was junk. Only had to reopen the front left due to a bad caliper and all I did was throw in a junk ceramic pad from Napa on the inside twice.

[@alexanderSydneyOz]

Who exactly does "proper bedding and burnishing of the new pads to the rotors"?? And what exactly is that even supposed to mean? I changed my own brakes and I simply change the parts and just drive the car. And when in years past I have paid other people to do it no one has ever said "don't forget to bed the brakes in".

[@DirtE30]

@@alexanderSydneyOz your ignorance to the issue doesn’t make it irrelevant or un true. Nor does the fact that it’s generally ignored or neglected even by “professionals”. Do some research.

[@garysgarage3669]

Love your video's and I really like the way you clean everything. I'm in northeast Wisconsin and I always lube the hub surface or you might not be getting the rotor off next time. Also, I lube behind the anti rattle clips to keep rust from pushing them out.Thanks for the video.

[@MarkTrades__]

Also a wisconsinite here - I would lather anti-sieze between the wheel, rotor and hub myself and yes - if not you might need a sledgehammer to get the wheel or rotor off!! ( I have had to lol)

[@wirenut3020]

I’ve had to remove my rusted on rotors with a 5lb. Sledgehammer until it broke the rotor in half. This was a first time brake job on that car. Since then the new rotors always get never seize on the back to prevent rust.

[@garysgarage3669]

this was also the first brake job on this car. I'm assuming they don't lube the hub at the factory.

[@marco1173]

This is the kind of detailed and, most importantly, critical information you never get on other videos or tutorials for brake service. Yes, anyone can slap pads on a rotor and call it a brake job, but it takes experience to know how to do it properly so you don't end up with problems in just a couple thousand miles. Thank you for sharing this!

[@nyc8452]

This is such a good tutorial and please open up a store in Connecticut!

[@Cruz0604]

That’s exactly how I do my breaks. I would trust you to do my breaks but not any other shops! Great quality work!

[@davo912]

what do you eat or drink on your breaks?

[@stevewilson8752]

Same stuf you probably eat ,they are very professional & that is what all customers want.🕺​@@davo912

[@dubmob151]

Them's the breaks

[@stevewilson8752]

Suck on.

[@alexreapzz99]

@@davo912 what

[@dianamercado4127]

Wish all brake shops had someone like you to teach their mechanics the right way to perform this job.

[@besttex4735]

I'm the tech. I don't have comebacks often. Sorry to say but the reason we don't do half these steps is because of what we are getting paid. An hour to do front pads and rotors. And an hour for the rear. Greasing the slide pins real quick fine. But polishing hubs for 10 mins each wheel and everything else they are doing screws the tech. Yea the owner marks the parts up 300% probably 600 to 800 on this brake job for the front and rear. Gets a rotor for 20 charges you 80. 2 or 3 hours of labor for the tech at 30 and hr say. Which is more often like 20 an hr for these guys they trick for years. So $60 for the tech and $800 for the shop that does pads, rotors, hardware, wire brushing, labor, sandblasting, and whatever else they throw on that ticket. Shop wins, customer wins, tech loses. Explain that to the customer or to all you people on youtube.

[@ChristoferRodolico]

This is the best video over ever seen on brakes. Already mentioned, but worth mentioning again. If you live in Michigan, and you've spent 45 beating a rotor off... you place a nice thin layer of anti-seize on the hub, before replacing the rotor. None on the lug nuts. Especially for home jobs, where you don't have 80 rotor removal options (like a shop)... you'll thank yourself when you encounter that rotor again.

[@armchairtin-kicker503]

I use a piece of 1/2" ID vinyl tubing on each wheel stud to guard the threads along with a cardboard shield with axle cut-out, placed behind the hub, before spraying a light coat of copper anti-seize.

[@ewetuber186000]

I’m a diy guy and I’ve been doing my own brake jobs for 50 years. As a teenager, on old card with drum brakes I did everything wrong. Luckily, I survived those botched brake jobs! I’ve tried to learn and get better with each successive job. It was fun for me to see that I do the same or a variation of your process for most of these steps. But I certainly learned from your video! Great to see real professionals at work! Thanks for the video.

[@johnnyappleseed7798]

You will generally not see this kind of quality workmanship performed at garages, what you will see is serviceable parts replaced and the customer overcharged. Pads half worn replaced, rotors with no pulsing issue and not at minimum thickness tossed. This video will assist the DIY person improve their skills and avoid having to painfully bend over for shop abuse. File works great for cleaning pad holder slots of rust and debris as bead blaster is something most do not have access to.

[@TonyRomeNewMoney]

Excellent video. I’ve been installing brakes for 30 years and learned some things from your instruction. The main thing a top technician needs is a pony tail. 😂

[@davidcampbell1899]

This has to be the most in-depth and through brake repair i have ever seen on U Tube. great work! You have even taught me a few things!

[@stewpid1215]

I do them the same way in Ontario Canada. But we have to put lube under the anti rattle clips, and on the hub after cleaning, or it will rust like crazy from salt. Also, i dont clean the whole bracket, or that would rust away too😅

[@jos6415]

My experience in the rust belt of Ontario Canada dictates that you must lubricate all metal mating metal surfaces. Put your favorite stuff on the hub face, between the caliber and the pads, between the bracket and the anti rattle hardware, and between the brake pad ears and the anti rattle shims. It's also good to apply stuff between the face of the brake disk and the wheel rim. If you don't do this there will be rusk jacking and binding sooner or later. Despite doing all this I've had binding brake pads and slide pins after a single winter. My practice is to clean and re-lube in the fall when i swap my summer to winter tires, and the spring when I swap the tires again. It's different in the rust belt.

[@alb12345672]

Yes same story in upstate NY. The rear caliper pin on my Lexus GS was so locked I had to get new ones. I tried heat, gave up. Maybe acetylene would work.

[@anthonyiannone7618]

i always use antisieze between the caliper bracket and the anti rattle clips or rust jacking will definitely be an issue

[@davidcampbell1899]

I live in Ottawa and do the same thing, RUST IS A BITCH to deal with. I clean and lube my pins when I swap my tires and I clean and the wheel hub and grease them with anti ant seize too. We guys from Eastern Ontario and Western Quebec could show some of these guys on U Tube some rusted vehicle's and their parts that would leave them speechless!

[@alb12345672]

@@davidcampbell1899 I also blast inside of my 11 F150 frame with fluid film. A friend had his turn to swiss cheese.

[@davidcampbell1899]

@alb12345672 Yes, I have my car krowned every year ( fluid film) to keep it from rusting. My F150 is 20 years old and my Camry is 10 years old.

[@drakeehl151]

Fantastic tutorial!! My brother replaced his front brakes last night before seeing your video today. He's decided to redo the job today and follow all of your recommended steps. Thank you for sharing your fine craftsmanship!

[@666ImI666]

Good video it is allot easier to do it right then to do it over. The only steps I do differently are no sand blasting I wire wheel and I never grease the back of the pad anymore it collects dirt and road salt (canada) that gets between the piston and the pad and the caliper and pad in my experience. Hubs rust allot more here like the one in your video looks a couple hours old 😂

[@DirtE30]

Much respect, shirts tucked, floors swept, shop tidy and bright, fender covers, THIS is a shop I would trust with my vehicles! I do all my own work as it’s what I went to school for and I find very few shops that do things right! I spend all day on a brake job because the details MATTER! If you want to do it once in a 100k miles, do it right the first time!

[@CyFi6]

As long as people like you exist shops like this will exist. I worry most people have no knowledge about how their car works and just want to pay less and wait less, therefore demanding shortcuts. People like you keep places like this in business.

[@ProJanitor]

You’re absolutely right about the importance of torque specifications. So many techs that I interact with seem to be disinterested in torquing bolts down properly in favor of the expediency of tightening by feel. At the end of the day, I get it - they’re probably pressured to get vehicles off the lift ASAP, so no judgement from this corner.😅 As an amateur, I have the luxury of time, so I can be very detailed just like you guys 👍

[@randy74989]

Cutting corners is not cool. This is why I vet my mechanic shops and luckily only use Independent mechanics for my vehicle services. And I have a 2019 XC-40 and it's services are done by an Independent Volvo only at a mechanic/owner's shop. He's been in business since 1982, same location, so I trust him with no hesitation. I also have an Independent Lexus mechanic/owner that I found for my 2023 ES300h Ultra Luxury. He was trained by Toyota and Lexus and he performs all maintenance services on my new vehicle. I have have already had the oil & filter changes done twice with Liqui Moly Special Tech AA 0W16 and a Toyota OEM filter (once at 1,000 miles to replace the factory fluids and filter and once at 6,000 miles). Only have 8,200 miles on the Odometer.

[@wsapp9823]

This man is a shinning example of excellence!!! I wish him great success and please keep sharing your knowledge!!!

[@GB-tr5uj]

Awesome explanation.. Each point is clearly explained.. Hats off man... Thanks for this awesome video on break job.. 🎉🎉

[@TTGTO288]

Good video and good info. He isn't wrong. These guys must not have a local barber. If he tries to flat rate his guys, i hope he allowed some time for the video. I've worked for some tyrants in independent shops that wanted you to charge the customer for 15 mins if you stopped to take a 💩. No techs break the bleeder when doing a brake job. 95% all just push the caliper piston back, the other 4%, don't know enough and 1% do what this guy does. If the system stays sealed and clean, there is no issues. Should do a video on using an air hammer to loosen a rusted bleeder that is on the verge of breaking off.

[@themessygarage]

This is where I want my car worked on if I'm not doing it myself. Love the attention to detail and integrity of your work! Also - THANK YOU for mentioning pumping the brakes after doing pads. So many videos skip that, and obviously dangerous if it isn't done, especially on front brakes, when it moves for the first time after getting back on the ground.

[@ThunderbirdRocket]

Tremendous tutorial ! Thanks gentlemen !! Very good standards 👍🏼 . Keep up the great work !

[@johncowhig7196]

Thank you so much guys! I'm very interested in fixing cars. I've never did a brake job and this video was super interesting. I'm 62 yrs old but it's never too late to learn. Hopefully, one day I can do a brake job w/ some help from an experienced mechanic. God bless you 2 men.

[@hamidizadi]

Not a single dealership would ever do a brake job with this much detail. This is outstanding work. I see some mechanics use copper antiseize underneath the rattle clips, especially up north and also a light coat directly on the wheel hub.

[@census3370]

the customer has the founding fathers doing amazing work on his brake system.

[@j-chriswall]

Great video here! Four items that I think were missed per OEM instructions. 1) Only silicone-based high-temp grease should be used on the caliper pins. Any petrolum-based will cause the boots and pin dampers to swell and fail. 2) When cleaning the pin boots and caliper piston boot, use a bit of silicone spray to get them clean and nice and pliable. 3) Thermal paste (3M Molykote M-77) should be used on the back of the pad, and on the shims to more efficiently carry heat off the face of the pad, into the backing and ultimately into the caliper frame. Each touch point of the pad (ears and back) should have thermal paste applied. I do not apply it to the full back of the outer shim, where it will collect dirt and looks bad with painted calipers. Instead, put the thermal paste on the fingers of the caliper frame and the face of the piston. 4) I use a thin layer of anti-seize paste on the face of the hub to keep the rotor from seizing with corrosion.

[@virtisconsole12]

Great video and I’ve been turning wrenches for 40 years.. well done guys, I love that you really cleaned the caliper carrier “I want that snappy bead cabinet” nevertheless you emphasized all the critical points in this job that typically issues come from, I like to add slyglide to the piston dust boot and the slide pin boots .. just to keep them from drying out, I also add a dash of blue loctite to the carrier bolts and caliper bolts .. and great job on cleaning the hub face I spend several minutes on that then will apply slight layer of never seize or fluid film on my newly cleaned hub so the rotor will come off easy.. really great commentary and production all around 👍🏻 Great job Clayton .. and to all the shop staff that are meticulous as Clayton with cleaning and torquing to specs you guys are real hard working guys that we want doing the work for our vehicles carrying ourselves and loved ones

[@WMGILMARTIN]

What brand of rotors do you use

[@virtisconsole12]

@@WMGILMARTIN depends on the vehicle.. but for the VW/Audi which are the cars I have a mostly work on.. I like Zimmerman or Brembo

[@mangosmakemesmilee5164]

Appreciate you keeping your techs eyes safe with safety glasses. “A person can run or walk on a fake leg, but can’t see out of a fake eye.”

[@jasoncaine2600]

This isn't going to hold up well 🤷‍♂️

[@armchairtin-kicker503]

I wear a KN95 mask when performing a brake service as well. Although they no longer contain asbestos, breathing that stuff cannot be for one's health.

[@tcbtcb]

Need to wear them all the time. Starts from the top down, shop culture.

[@SteelHoarse]

Very good video… everything you said was 100%. I have been doing break jobs since the early 80’s… I mostly do what you said, expect the bead blaster (i use a parts washer for the caliper brackets…) I used to not open the bleeder either, until they invented antilock breaks….. You should do a video on replacing breaks on a Ford Transit van! Lol.

[@TH-tc3sp]

Only thing I do differently, before the rotors go on, I slap a little bit of anti-sieze (copper, although I think Nickel would be fine too) on the hub, and then once the rotor is on, slap a little bit on the face and the studs, makes servicing easy for the future and cuts down on the rust. Ive got nearly 200,000 kilometers on my current work vehicle and never have issues. Jaguar Land Rover taught us all this as standard practice. Good work lads.

[@rc4211]

Fluid Film on a well cleaned hub, brake grease (e.g., Permatex Ceramic Extreme) on the caliper mounting brackets under the ant-rattle clips, and silicone-based grease (e.g., 3M silicone paste) on the caliper slide pins. It's the only way to go in the rust belt, and the best way to get maximum life from your brakes. Overall, a very well done video. Clayton did a great job cleaning out the bores on the caliper mounting brackets. This is an often overlooked, but very important, step. Also be sure the carefully check the condition of the rubber slide pin boots. They're your first line of defense for keeping water and grit away from your slide pins.

[@Doomzdayxx]

100% what is your opinion on cracking the bleeder screws to press back in the caliper piston? You know for sure that bleeder screws in the rust belt love to shear off.

[@ElPants21]

agreed. I use a soft wire brush in a drill to do the pin bores with the a vice. Works good AND fast

[@ElPants21]

​@@Doomzdayxxdepends how badly rusted they are and if you have already done them on that vehicle

[@trickyynicky]

This is the way

[@trickyynicky]

⁠@@DoomzdayxxHeat is needed, crack them with a proper six sided socket or wrench(avoid flare wrenches).

[@karlstraw2367]

Great video! I have been doing my and a few ( friends ) brakes for 50 years plus. Very informed video, well done. I live in Pa. and we get our share of rust here. I do everything the way you do it. I also do two other minor things. Where the hardware meets the bracket, I put a very light coating of brake lube as well. it keeps it from building up any rust and putting pressure between those two areas and getting the pad tight. Also, I put a light coat of never seize between the back of the rotor where it meets the hub. Also a little around the center hole of the hub and rotor. They can get crazy tight there and very hard to get off from rust. Really enjoyed your video. Look forward to more.

[@coburn_karma]

Exactly how my father taught me, besides the bead blasting. Been turning wrenches for 30 years as a pro, you lose credibility and pride after a come back, no matter how seasoned you are. This is this most thorough and comprehensive guide to brake service. Hopefully, words gets around in your area about the great service you provide and keep you busy with return customers.

[@juanrodriguez8070]

Master, you've done wonderful a job of explaining and doing everything so well and detailed. You really consider your work a very important job, and teach how to do it well the first time. Thanks for so thorough explanation. I've really learned well.!!!

[@davidmiller1938]

This video should be required viewing for anyone touching vehicle brakes. I wonder what my local shop does and what they’d charge to allow me to “supervise”😂

[@RonsGarage1]

Great video, very detailed. Home mechanic here. I have been putting a small amount of Permatex anti-seize lubricant on the hub (spread it into a thin layer) before placing the new rotor on. Here in the Northeast they use salt on the roads, gets everywhere under cars. I had to use a puller to get the rotor off! Do you see any downsides to using anti-seize between the hub and rotor? Thanks, Ron

[@Khg72]

I also wanted to comment on this, very important to prevent rust in the future between hub and disc. I always used prematex grey anti seize with great results.

[@ncooty]

That's the most serious, thorough brake job I've ever even _heard_ of someone doing.

[@tomhoward6453]

ya .i have been pushing cylinders back without cracking the bleeders for 35 years. never had a issue but i will always do it moving forward.makes all the sense in the world.espesially with all the exspensive high teck componets in todays cars.

[@silverltc2729]

That is how winning is done. Never surrender. Never quit.

[@jimmykulik3438]

Very detailed nice work. I did a brake job 2 years ago 15 equinox economy stuff didn't last was terribly. So did it again economy stuff again, but did it right l did something different this time other than the details here, l took it out went 60 mph hard aggressively braking right to 5 mph 6 times. I noticed a bit of darkness and blush tinge on all 4 rotors. Been 3 years now brakes are perfect!. Never will know if it was the detailing or the bedding or the brake components. But 100 times better than the last job ❤

[@DamirUlovec]

Attention to details. Love it. Thumbs up. Unfortunately, I can't be your customer.

[@R3YNZ]

Awesome video! I'm apprentice at a shop and I know how to do brakes but i was never taught to THIS LEVEL of attention to detail. I will be implementing this from now on.

[@robertmedina6875]

So when you do brakes and you want to get the caliper bracket clean where the pads ride, you can use a straight grinder with a wire wheel. If you don’t have a sandblaster to get down into the cracks. A steel wire wheel works good! Guys you put out great videos!

[@daves2520]

I am impressed with the cleanliness of your shop. In my opinion, this is a sign of a well-run business.

[@briancoverstone4042]

Don't give me that crap, I once had to Sawzall off a rotor. Even the OTC 6980 couldn't get the rotor off.

[@ryszardbyczyk6938]

You do NOT see this attention in any shop I've seen. I talk to apprentices and other technicians about this, and not one has ever told me that they were taught this way. I encourage them to do this because it is an investment in our futures and customer satisfaction, even though we work on fleet vehicles. I truly appreciate the fact that you explained to your audience about the correct purging of the nasty brake fluid, the importance of bleeder caps, and all the reasons why. I have found techs resistant to using these techniques because they argue they are unnecessary and time-consuming. Thank you for producing this video, as I will be using it as a teaching tool. I say this often, " we do it right, and then there is everything else."

[@richardcadman3984]

I know, 50 years I've never seen a mechanic do this much work on brakes.

[@ryloben9710]

I’m not a mechanic by any means. Most of what I know was learned from KZbin. I worked at a dealership for 2 years and started out in detail. Wasn’t long before I worked my way over to the service racks. I was never taught to clean the rotor, I wasn’t taught the right amount of grease to put on the pins, and I certainly wasn’t taught to open the bleeders as I depressed the calibers back down. When I mentioned the “appropriate” amount of grease to put on I was dismissed as an inexperienced mechanic that shouldn’t believe everything I see on KZbin. They put way too much much on, never cleaned rotors and definitely didn’t bleed brakes if we only changed the pads. after seeing how “certified” mechanics did brakes I started doing my own and always have since then.

[@MarcBchannel]

I've always replaced my own brakes but I've never addressed sticky slide pins, lubing contact points, cleaning off rust. I always wondered why my brakes don't last longer or why I get noisy brakes after. Now I know. Thx guys👍

[@derekp6636]

same, I've done em before but not this thorough, will do a better job next time!

[@puddleduckist]

Nice to see a shop do as thorough a job as I do. I prefer to do this stuff myself as the majority of places today don't do what you guys do so cheers 🎉to you guys!!!!

[@EasyRico99]

this is EASILY the BEST and most complete brake job tutorial on KZbin!! It made a subscriber out of me... thank you for letting the DIY person know what I was missing.

[@vpatte1177ify]

Very impressed, quality work is not fast, fast work is not quality

[@craigfin3222]

"...notice that the torque wrench moved..." This, I see a ton of mechanics say that they torque stuff. When in reality they put the wrench on and try to turn it, and the wrench clicks/beeps without moving anything. They never seem to realize that it means they likely over torqued it, they just leave the problem for the next guy.