The BIGGEST Misunderstanding In Climbing Training // Alex Johnson

[@Synthysizer]

cool insights from Alex + also loved the honesty, "i don't know about endurance because i don't do it" 😂

[@matsalaun]

Power is speed x strengh. To increase power you can work on one of the variables: speed or strengh, and even better is to work on both! It'is like cycling, velocity or strengh, or both!

[@evinoshea5215]

these shorts are great - even after watching full episodes its nice to go back to these highlights!

[@ScotchGambino]

Unless you’re maxed out and solid at a grade don’t worry about all this training info. Just climb climb climb. Try hard. Like the thumbnail says worry about this when you plateau. Which will likely take many years to arrive at.

[@MatrixPermutation]

Her take on training power through speed instead of heavier loads is completely SPOT ON. Heavier loads aren't really that great and there's a lot of misconceptions around them. The part about periodization make sense when you need to prepare for a particular event (e.g. competition season) but it's not gonna work better compared to linear training for average folks like us. So overall an optimal, linear program for climbers would be: A more explosive version of classic bodybuilding training with low to moderate loads using only compound movements, like dips/pushups, pullups, RDLs/DLs and DB rows, sit ups, and a shit ton of explosive, low load olympic weightlifting (power cleans) for the neurological advantages. Train legs once a week, don't forget the pushing movements to keep your shoulders injury free and ALWAYS train to muscle failure. Power=Faster Endurance=Slower, train accordingly. Unless you eat like a bull you won't turn into a Mr. Olympia, so don't be afraid of hypertrophy and neither eat too little. References: www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7927075/#sec5-sports-09-00032title www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fphys.2017.00423/full

[@matsalaun]

Power = speed × strengh! You need to work both variables, not only speed! Speed and strengh! The most important is working finger strengh, which is takes the longest time to improve without being injured!

[@lukedavies900]

Always training to muscular failure on supplementary exercises sounds like a good way to burn out your CNS before you've even factored climbing into the equation.

[@gregspauldini3139]

When you guys talk about fast twitch, do you think you could do that on a campus board as well with double clutches but with body weight? Like do one double clutch in a sped up way and then drop off, rest and repeat? I wonder if that would work.

[@thestruggleclimbingshow]

Yes I think that would. I often warmup for a moonboard sesh by doing some jump catches on a campus board (just jumping from the ground and catching a rung, then dropping off). It’s all about the fast latch.

[@RomainTaillefer-p5e]

No hypertrophy phase for forearms with repeaters and push/pull muscle groups at all ?

[@ericmetzgar4285]

So in terms of changing "phases"... can you clarify something for me? I'm doing general strength training (bench, dead lifting, curls, legs, etc) and then some specific climbing training (hangboard, shoulders, core, wrists, pinches, etc)... so when I change phases, do that mean stopping ALL of these exercise and doing DIFFERENT exercises entirely? Or should I keep the general training going, and shift only the climbing exercises? Or am I missing something? Thanks!!

[@joserezza03]

I think not necessarily changing the exercises completely. Perhaps more of adding heavier loads to transition to new phases. Or you can look at it also changing the exercises wherein it's a more intense version of a previous exercise (half plank to extended plank).

[@ashhodson2063]

P.S I was a sprinter for 8 years. Talk about climbing if thats what you know.

[@MegaChaien]

What you do after a peak? Directly back to strength or back with a deload week then recycling?

[@thestruggleclimbingshow]

I think it depends on your goals. Typically you peak in order to send something hard, or take a trip. Ride the peak for a few weeks of too performance… then start back into a phase that suits your next goal (if you want to maintain, hit some power training, if you want to peak again in X weeks or months then work backward from that). Don’t underestimate the power of the deload week! Rest is key. I’ve done some good podcast interview on all of this with Tom Randall, Eric Horst, and Tyler Nelson. Have a great season!

[@MegaChaien]

@@thestruggleclimbingshow ya I just feel really sore after a trip and thinking that after a peak I should rest or have a deload weak. But for deload I cannot even pull the hard problem that the weak before the trip I did as taper. I think a rest + slowly intercept back is right strategy. Seeing that not much video talks about that

[@thestruggleclimbingshow]

@@MegaChaien never underestimate the power of the deload week. I’ve done some episodes on this with Tyler Nelson and Tom Randall on the podcast. Very important to recover.

[@josefzboril9095]

less is more,check super conpensation@@MegaChaien

[@manoloippen4938]

Feeling like a boooooooss :D f**in' great!

[@Sepp2009]

okay so, you got me very interested in periodisation and I have a pretty good idea what to train for strength or endurance. BUT I got like zero clue what to train for power/speed? any tips? cheers

[@Sepp2009]

@@thestruggleclimbingshow which recent video?

[@joserezza03]

Some example of training for power that I do: Pull ups at like 1/3 the weight of your max but do them fast. Lighter load, faster movement. The campus board is a favorite tool of mine to train power and contact strength as well. Ive seen what they call Contrast Training, where you do slow, heavy loaded movements for like 3-5 reps, then go bodyweight and do fast, explosive for another 5 reps (ex. Weighted Goblet squat then transition to bodyweight jump squat)

[@benfizzon3294]

Is it advisable to take a deload week before moving to the next phase? I.e. between a strength and power building phase?

[@bendtbendt1]

Yeah

[@antigravity44]

Some people don't have a lot of fast twitch fibres...e.g some people can sprint fast and others cannot it's genetics

[@teostrong6973]

How and what do you train during that peak month?

[@josefzboril9095]

peak you climb outside work on projects

[@ejl74]

Dope!

[@az-dx5xw]

hey, this seems like a great new channel tho gotta admit, took me some time to click on the videos because the thumbnails reminded me too much of The onion

[@TheValinov]

does hair dying adds to peak power? super saiyan mode! 😜

[@vipidd]

alex im hunting you in phasmophibua rugt now