AVOID This Very Common Hangboarding Mistake // Dr. Tyler Nelson

[@thestruggleclimbingshow]

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[@Sepp2009]

I don't even get the gist of this video

[@emilholck87]

I guess it is 1 longer hangs upwards of 10 sec, dont really translate well, so you might as well do much shorter hangs or lifts 2 the loading type (hangs, pulls, lifts) doesnt really matter either, and you can do what is most “comfortable” / less taxing on the whole system ie. One arm lifts Im not sure im fully convinced, but that is what Im getting from it

[@thestruggleclimbingshow]

That’s my take as well. More context in the full podcast interview on Apple or Spotify or wherever.

[@shoqed]

I think he's saying we can display more strength passively (eccentric/yielding isometric) than actively (concentric/overcoming isometric). So typical hangboarding is somewhat inefficient because it trains the former while the latter is more important for climbing, i.e. actually squeezing and generating force off holds vs just hanging

[@zacharylaschober]

Feel as though the video cut as he was getting to the essential aspect which was the isometric yielding exercise we are doing for both the development and assessment of finger strength is more about eccentric efficiency due to offloading force to the titin fibers, whereas an isometric overcoming is a better assessment of finger strength and better as a finger strength intervention as we are increasing motor unit recruitment. However, you have to have followed Tyler for a tad.

[@thestruggleclimbingshow]

Yeah, the point of this short clip was to let people know that to build finger strength the duration should be around five seconds or less, and there are a bunch of different ways to do it, choose whichever is most convenient for you. We go far deeper into methodology and protocols in the full podcast, Available on Apple or Spotify or wherever. I appreciate the thoughtful comment!

[@devonrd]

Sooo.. for injury prevention: yielding isometric or 'concentric-like'?

[@francescovaroli6893]

Yeah of all your great content you have this one needed to be broken down in more laymen’s terms. Always so close to maybe understanding but never quite fully digs in.

[@thestruggleclimbingshow]

Yeah, I totally agree, I think this kind of topic is dense enough and nuanced enough to just require a full listen to the podcast interview. I don’t think I did Tyler much justice with this edit.

[@Hopesfallout]

What is he even saying? I'm not surprised he can pull with similar force regardless of hanging on one or two arms or pulling from the floor. The crucial question is what's most effective for progression. I highly doubt, for instance, that hanging from one arm, which most people can only do in a lock-off position, is equivalent to hanging from two straight arms - at least not in regards to how each exercise translates into actual climbing.

[@thestruggleclimbingshow]

We did a full podcast episode on this, so if you would like further context I recommend checking that out. But essentially, he’s saying that most people get the duration and intensity wrong. To build finger strength, duration should be around five seconds or less, and high intensity. Methodology isn’t as important, as he noted in this video. You can pull from the floor, pull one hand, pull two hands with added weight, whatever works for you. For strong climbers, he is saying it doesn’t make a lot of sense to add a ton of weight on a two arm hang when you could simply use less weight and do a one arm hang. More of a convenience thing. But there’s also the concept of overcoming isometric where you are actively curling your fingers rather than preventing them from opening. All of this is talked about in greater detail on the podcast, and he also just put up a video on his channel that goes into this in more detail. Good luck with your training!

[@yogyclimbs]

Keep it as simple as it is, please...

[@thestruggleclimbingshow]

Pull hard for 3-5 seconds, rest for a bit, do it again.

[@yogyclimbs]

@@thestruggleclimbingshow😅

[@playboimarty]

@@thestruggleclimbingshowty

[@christhepolymath3466]

Y'all really didn't think this was helpful? That's a bit surprising to me. I personally found everything Tyler said to be worthwhile and interesting. Basically, he's saying that people OD with hangboarding. Trying to hang for extended periods of time doesn't seem like the proper way to train. I can kind of attest to this since I recently injured my fingers while trying to hang for as long as possible. As he explained, you can find exactly how much load to train with by doing each hand separately on a Tindeq. Pull as hard as you can, and get your max numbers. Then, load each hand with that same amount of weight during training, but only hold that weight for a few seconds. According to him, this is effective and efficient training, and hanging for extended periods just doesn't make sense. I think he has a point there. When doing moves, you pretty much grab each hold for about 5 seconds (maybe a little more or little less). At least, when pulling at maximum, which is what strength training is supposed to be about. You would never grab a hold for more than 5 seconds before doing the next move during a crux sequence. Also, for me, I have an anatomical imbalance --- my left arm is longer than my right, and my right clavicle sits lower than my left. Basically, my shoulders and elbows are fucked up as a result. Hanging with both hands on a hangboard is something I've found to be dangerous for me, and also not providing the gains that I want. It's nice to hear someone explain that training each hand separately can provided worthwhile gains. This is definitely an approach I'm going to take going forward. Sorry for the long comment. I hope I don't come off as an asshole. Just wanted to provide an explanation for those that didn't get what he said. If you don't agree, no biggie; to each their own. Train however works best for you!

[@thestruggleclimbingshow]

Really appreciate the thoughtful comment!